EP7 - How to Navigate Cape Caution and Visiting the U'Mista Cultural Center

I continue my cruise north with the sailing vessel Tally Ho. After making our way through the straights into Blackfish Sound, we stopped over in Alert Bay to walk around the town and visit the U'Mista Cultural Center that has a wonderful display of the culture, art, and potlatch ceremony of the Namgis First Nation.
In Port McNeil, I spend much time re-provisioning for the remainder of the trip North, and part ways with Tally Ho for a few days taking a different route around Cape Caution up to the Hakai Institute. When considering the crossing, I walk through a bit of weather forecasting and what consideration needs to happen when selecting time windows for open water crossings--particularly on an old wooden boat that still has a lot of rotting wood and may not be able to withstand a bumpy ride across a big straight. We look at wave periods, wave heights, wind conditions, tides, and currents to determine the opportune moment to cross. After waiting a couple of days in Port McNeil for some larger weather to pass by, I ultimately make a decision to cross early on a Tuesday morning which turned out to be a solid choice that resulted in a relatively smooth crossing.
This video is part of a series that I am working to record Argonaut's adventures up the remote coastline of British Columbia, tracing the routes and stopovers it once made as a hospital boat serving with the United Methodist Church from 1937 to 1966. This summer, I am working to document the people, places, and the experience of cruising the beautiful Pacific Northwest waters. These are part adventure/liveaboard/cruising videos, part history, and part repairs and work that goes into restoring and maintaining a 100 year old wooden boat.
Information on the Mamalilikulla First Nation: mamalilikulla.ca/
Information on the Namgis First Nation: namgis.bc.ca/
Visit the U'Mista Cultural Center: www.umista.ca/
Follow Argonaut's Adventures and Restoration:
Support as a Patreon: / argonautii
Instagram: mv_argonaut@
TikTok: mv_argonaut@
www.argonaut19...

[@georgeattig8088]

Great episode. I particularly like your simple but clear explanations about winds and tides, which makes it easier for us non-sailors to understand. Looking forward to the next episode.

[@MV_Argonaut]

Awesome, thank you!

[@ErnestRuzicka]

This episode felt like I was watching the travel channel...I'm loving it!

[@marclattoni1959]

Thanks for the maps. It was most interesting to follow your progress. Thanks to you and Tally Ho I'm learning more about our Canadian history.

[@MV_Argonaut]

Great to hear!

[@lisaverrochi3659]

This has become our number one summer series!! Love it and learning so much.

[@jimc4731]

Loved it. 🥰 More engine and gauge views please JIM ❤

[@MV_Argonaut]

Haha I owe a full engine room tour! Will do.

[@starfishsystems]

I'm glad that you took the time to systematically explain the factors that influence the timing of your transit through these waters. It's a whole mode of thinking that would otherwise be invisible to people not familiar with coastal sailing and motoring. I've made this particular transit a total of five times in my life, always under benign conditions, owing to knowledgable seamanship on the part of others. Big ocean swells, of course, but with such a long period that there's all the time in the world to climb up one side of the wave and slide down the other. But the notorious Egg Island light station lies just to the NW of Cape Caution, and boy are there some hair-raising stories about the adverse conditions that CAN develop around there. Timing is everything, and that's another reaon why we tend to provision our vessels well, so that we can wait patiently for favorable conditions rather than giving in to the irrational urge to do something, get it over with.

[@MV_Argonaut]

Thanks for the comment. I love the puzzle of navigation, and weighing conditions, and risk tolerance, and safety. The goal is to always come away without a "sea story," but for a boat like Argonaut in her current condition (full of rot), it's extra important to consider and something I try to emphasize with any guests that I have aboard is there's always a chance we won't make it to where we want to go, when we want to get there. Flexibility is always the safest strategy.

[@deeeeeds]

The explanations were great and I appreciate the clear maps you've drawn. It would be super interesting and useful if you referred back to them during different parts of the journey to show where you are in real-life, as those maps are the only frame of reference many of us have of the area. Awesome video as always!

[@MV_Argonaut]

Great suggestion and thanks! Will do

[@ChrisHaynes-yf9mi]

Great to read about the adventures. Hope we can join you next summer and stop in on your way south to say hi.

[@MV_Argonaut]

I will! I’ll be with my parents from Vancouver to Victoria to Port townsend for the boat festivals!

[@marilynplant4647]

Lovely photography and good narration, I’m enjoying travelling along with you.

[@kevindoyle4497]

Great videos, Nicholas! Footage is amazing, and your narration is very enjoyable.

[@svfixerup]

Glad you made it to Calvert island and west beach. It is a Beautiful place. I was lucky enough to spend some time there a few years back. Wuikinuxv traditional lands, they are great people.

[@boattguyafloat]

Really good content and kudos for taking on the stewardship of the vessel, a real piece of local history...

[@davidvial268]

It is such a privilege cruising with you through one of the most beautiful parts of the world. Keep em coming keep and keep an eye on the bilge.

[@glengullickson6538]

On our crossing in 1994, we left Port McNeil and anchored in Fury Cove on Fury Island-basically the first protected anchorage after crossing. Thanks for the memories!

[@ShannonMcIntosh-s8q]

We got back from Bella Bella a few days ago after spending time fishing and noticed the Argonaut tied up at the dock. We were all admiring the Argonaut and were speculating on where she was from and where she was heading. We found your channel just by chance. Enjoy your adventure and we look forward to following the Argonaut.

[@MV_Argonaut]

That is awesome! Thanks for tuning in - I was visiting with folks who were sharing some of the history of the boat with me, and meeting people who remember the boat when it served as a medical mission boat there in the 30’s through 60’s

[@scimi7994]

That Gardner just loves running, beautiful 😍

[@MV_Argonaut]

It does!

[@adamcase304]

No need to skip forward the weather and tide condition is really interesting.

[@patrickmccarthy4089]

Smooth travels and another great vid! Thanks.

[@mrmaple]

Bob is wonderful! Nice moment with the carrot cake.

[@gobic1319]

Absolutely great narration. Thanks for sharing the adventure in the PNW

[@KennyP88]

Love your boat, quite the shut down for the engine. You do have crew don’t you, or are you completely single handing Argonaut II?

[@MV_Argonaut]

Hi Kenny, thanks! I often try and have friends come join me but am single handing about half the time. The engine is a lot of steps, but easily run by one person.

[@kevindoyle4497]

I just worked on a British circa 1930 motor yacht, with twin Gardner 8-cylinder diesels, like yours. Such great engines, and such a great, soothing sound (pockeda-pockeda)...

[@SonjaBruenzels]

Yay!! Perfect timing for my lunchbreak!

[@tylerdrown]

Great video, Nicholas. Just subscribed, glad to see you’re doing well and your boat is great!

[@MV_Argonaut]

Hi how are you?! Haha thanks for tuning in!

[@quarlow1215]

I love it. In the early 80's I worked on a commercial troller all over there. Those were good times and great adventures. We would be in Bull harbour around mid May which was my capt. Birthday and we would get back to Vancouver about mid September. So beautiful up there.

[@bboomer7th]

Thanks.

[@billhanna2148]

Thank you again for a most satisfying video 🙏👏👏👏 the views, the MUSIC, the real technical challenges THANK YOU

[@MV_Argonaut]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@andyfry2299]

Thank you so much, Nick! What a great trip!

[@lorihutchinson9485]

Great video.

[@svventure844]

"Stacking your cards in favor of the best conditions..." Excellent phrasing Captain. Gotta appreciate factors that play into risk assessment and odds. Not many sure bets out there.

[@victoriagooner9907]

Another great video! Lots of amazing sailings around Northern Van Isle and Queen Charlotte Islands. Reminds me of my days in the Royal Canadian Navy sailing with the YAGs up and around there.

[@perjorgensen5335]

Bishop Bay hot springs is worth a visit if you get up that far. Steel, aluminum and fiberglass boats have their merits but nothing can replace the visceral experience of travelling in a wood hulled boat.

[@sallyb3]

🎉 what an awesome adventure. ❤

[@jeromemorris2700]

Awesome! Beautiful in so many ways.

[@stevenss8070]

Well explained the decision making.. Greetings from the wide beaches and beautiful shorelines of Switzerland 🇨🇭

[@marclattoni1959]

Thanks!

[@MV_Argonaut]

Thank you so much, I really do appreciate your support!

[@tasmanianriviera7985]

Great episode mate. Really enjoying the ride with you guys. 👍

[@MV_Argonaut]

Glad to hear it!

[@efiorentino1024]

Bravo Zulu! Your video production has come a long way in very short order. Keep it up! Glad I found the channel. I hope you find success at it - look forward to seeing more.

[@ryhanpeacefeather9278]

The center is Alert Bay is awesome!

[@richardcook4007]

Enjoying the videos, thanks for sharing.

[@georgeemeny6123]

Knew the waters North of the San Juans and the BC coast were rugged and wild, didn't know they were dangerous too. So much for "protected" waters. lol Cheers from Sequim.

[@brianlord2636]

A great video! Thanks.

[@donhuebert9151]

Really enjoyed that, thank you.

[@Kcsailing]

Red Barn Coffee!

[@MV_Argonaut]

Haha yes! Hello!

[@robertcarkeek8391]

❤

[@treatch3]

As former sailors cruising in the Great Lakes, we had several iron rules regarding safety. In particular, if I single-handing the boat, I had to wear an (inflatable) PFD at all times, and clip on with my safety line any time on deck (outside of harbour). You’re obviously very well-informed and very prudent so I’d be interested in understanding why no PFD when underway.

[@MV_Argonaut]

Hi Treat! Thanks for the call out and love the attention towards safety. Agree that PFDs should be worn as frequently as is reasonable, and aboard a sailing vessel I would almost always wear one whilst underway. Argonaut is quite a large vessel, and very stable in inland waters so I typically will only put on a PFD when going outside of the wheelhouse or in bigger sea conditions, which I avoid at all costs. My larger concerns underway are less about falling over, and more about getting tangled / falling into the moving belts and flywheels in the engine room, falling down the ladder to the wheelhouse, and monitoring for leaks on an old, rotting boat. In the end, safety focuses on tradeoffs and judgement and in these flat, calm waters aboard a very heavy 73' vessel the risk to falling overboard is ultimately very low.

[@bobuncle6962]

​@@MV_Argonautwear the pfd in the dinghy as well. Flow at 4 knots is not perfect swimming conditions

[@BKinWhiteRock]

Next time, take some time to explore smiths and rivers inlet…..I grew up in the 60s in smiths….it’s remarkably unchanged. There is a grizzly bear watching resort at the head of smiths. Great Bear Lodge

[@MV_Argonaut]

Thanks! I’ll be passing through on my way south and will try to check it out!

[@BKinWhiteRock]

@@MV_Argonaut you are doing a great job on your content!

[@MV_Argonaut]

Thanks!! Trying my best, it’s all new to me

[@KenFeltman]

I am amazed at all the things that have to be done to shut down the engine. Just turning the switch off doesn't get it I assume!

[@steveparsons6324]

Umista meaning -> “The return of our treasures from distant museums is a form of u'mista.”

[@user-wb9kv5qi8p]

Watching some of your older videos on Argonaut II it sounds like she will need more work that will require Shipwright Peter replacing more planks and such. I have to buy small amounts of timbers and the cost for a good plank of fir, spruce, or yellow cedar is quite pricey and I can't imagine the material cost of re-plank a large area. A thought occurred to me... back in the 1960's when George Calkins, the designer and builder of the Bartender Boat, cruised up to Canada and Alaska in his 60 Schooner, he would always visit a sawmill and purchase larger quantities of fir or yellow cedar. He would have it stacked on the deck and haul it back to Washington for his own boat building. I know things have changed significantly since that time, but there are still sawmills operating in British Columbia. Since you are up in BC, it might be a good opportunity for you to pick up some freshly sawn timber for Argonaut II. Just a thought... - George

[@MV_Argonaut]

Hi George - thanks! That’s an interesting idea. I’ll have to look into it

[@user-wb9kv5qi8p]

Hi Nick, Thanks for the videos, I love Argonaut II. Such a beautiful boat... and the Gardner. It completes the originality of the boat. I'm very glad to see Argonaut II in your hands. In this episode, you have a very quick look at the Columbia III with it's Gardner engine. It appears to be very similar your Argonaut II, maybe a bit longer. It definitely has a longer house. Do you know if it's designed and built by the same boatyard as Argonaut? Thanks again! - George

[@user-wb9kv5qi8p]

I found the history of Columbia III and other photos online at Mothership Adventures. Unbelievable, it was designed in 1955 by Robert Allen, built by Star Shipyard and launched in 1965. She is a young boat compared to Argonaut II. Also, she is very different having a square transom instead of a double-ender and only 63' long. However, I think she is a beamier and taller boat, but not sure. The similarity is both were mission boats on the BC coast. - George

[@kevinmallory5237]

Nick - awesome videos - really appreciate the insight into your decision making (especially around Cape Caution). You reference guide books - could you expand on which ones you rely on as you encounter some of the more challenging waters you encounter going North (or South I suppose as well).

[@MV_Argonaut]

Hi Kevin, thanks! Waggoners really is the best I think. I have several others that are fun to read through but for both the straights and Cape a caution I like this one. Something helpful for up here would be to look into whitewater rafting books (I don’t have a recommendation there), which teach you how to read an eddy and rip line across the water. I never thought something like that would translate, but to know how water comes off a point where there’s lots of current can really help how you navigate back eddies or how to react when your boat gets turned around by a current unexpectedly.

[@kevinmallory5237]

@@MV_Argonaut Super - Waggoners is great! Thanks for the additional tips - like you - 8 knots is max. Finding and navigating the back eddies will be this summers' bit of continuing education 😎

[@gardenrailroading]

Love your descriptions of your conditions for your voyage. Question, doe's anyone still use "Hanson's Handbook"?

[@MV_Argonaut]

I'm not aware of it, no. After a quick google search, it doesn't look like it is sold anymore.

[@franzmuller5695]

Hi man Love your videos Could you at some point give us a full boat tour ? Or did you already do one.

[@bobuncle6962]

Hope this helps a bit with our CDN diesel prices.

[@MV_Argonaut]

Hi Bob, thank you! That is so generous, I really appreciate the support!

[@oldwillie313]

Another great video! Thanks for taking us along!

[@MV_Argonaut]

Thank you so much!

[@robertproctor-m5y]

Excellent episode as always, Does the Columbia III have a channel or website we could look into that vessel as well ?

[@MV_Argonaut]

No channel, but they do charters and are called “Mothership adventures” if you look them up!

[@BKinWhiteRock]

Are you on AIS tracking?

[@two-sense]

Shame you missed Sointula.

[@dansbrown1313]

Hello Nick, Would you please replace the Canadian flag your flying with something less tattered. Perhaps Leo has a spare one. Thanks Dan (Nanaimo)

[@MV_Argonaut]

Hi Dan, yes! It has been replaced and something I had been working to find for some time, but logistics were hard given how much we’ve been on the move.

[@amilton2128]

Is there a better cruising or sailing destination than British Columbia?

[@MV_Argonaut]

Shhhh….let all the big yachts stay in the Caribbean or the Med!

[@TheJbh1103]

Are you traveling alone

[@MV_Argonaut]

Sometimes, yes! I like to invite friends for the company (and added safety) when I can, but do spend quite a bit of time running the boat solo.

[@BKinWhiteRock]

Check pronunciation Hakai and namu

[@MV_Argonaut]

Thank you! Oops - will correct going forward

[@bostonbudz4616]

LOVE THAT RED BARN COFFEE MUG ON HOOD 😂🤣😂🤣Best Coffee in the land get you a bag ASAP 🤩🤩🤩🤩