Episode 137 Building Performance: Common Problems

This week, Matt is joined by building performance expert, Randy Williams. Their discussion centers on building science and energy efficiency in home construction, emphasizing the importance of blower door tests to identify air leaks and improve insulation.
Matt and Randy highlight practical advice for homeowners and builders, including conducting energy audits and mid-build tests to enhance building performance. They also touch on the costs and training required for energy auditing, with recommendations to use resources like BPI for certification.
Resources:
Building Performance Institute: www.bpi.org/
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[@vennic]

MN native homeowner, here. First thing I do when I see a humidifier unit in my house is disconnect and block it off. Keeping humidity low is also a recommended treatment for indoor mold and dust mite allergies. Under 40% dehydrates and kills the mites

[@johnwhite2576]

I hear you. But with tight houses lots of people showers Etc, humidity can build up. But I can’t see how you get above 60 per cent in the winter, , and esp with a full time erv. Hjmdity is always going to be the bigger and more consistent problem in vast majority of houses unless you live in high desert.

[@bradmesserle999]

In the north we have humidifiers it’s tied into the hvac so when it does get too dry it comes on. So well worth it. But we also have a dehumidifier for the summer

[@benfowler2127]

Any chance you can address when or where a vapor diffusion port needs to be installed in a roof, and what the exterior roof insulation detail would be like? My understanding from watching your videos is that humidity always migrates up to the ridge line. I could be misunderstanding that though, so some sort of clarification would be a nice to have.

[@xokissmekatexo]

@mattrisinger would love to see some Southern Utah / Nevada / Arizona (HOT DRY) episodes. We have a boom in building and aside from Stephanie in Northern Utah (cold dry climate) the build quality is frightening!

[@taylorthompson9543]

Hey @Matt, question for you. In this video you mentioned in your new build a beam that protrudes through the wall from the inside to the outside. Or areas where maybe two lvls or other framing members come through sandwiched. I’ve been thinking about this lately, what about wrapping those beams in Zip sheathing, and treating them like any other part of the exterior assembly? Then tape accordingly both at the seams where the beam is wrapped and between the beam sheathing and the exterior wall. Basically treat those beams as part of the envelope? Any framing members that attach to said beam on the outside of the structure would have to be fastened over the Zip which may not be sufficient? That might be overkill but it seems like in some scenarios that may be easier to seal vs using a fluid applied everywhere? Not to mention the extra vapor protection it’d provide. Just a thought from a “non-builder” outsider! 👍

[@jesuslovesyou5330]

Hello.....what would you recommend for a tiny steel home build in Dallas Texas??

[@nathanmrudd]

Fellow Grand Rapids, MN native here. Small world. Also, looking for a contractor for some work and someone to do a blower door test on my cabin afterwards. 🤔

[@johnclark2149]

How about people with log homes? How would you treat these types of homes?

[@ducagace1390]

I'm unable to comprehend why no humidifier? ERV or HRV + pre-heater + post-heater + humidifier + dehumidifier = S tier. If you have 20% RH, you want to humidifier. If you have 80% RH, you want to dehumidifier. Constant perfection cannot be achieved if you lack one or the other. Thank you for your podcast Math. I pray for the best for you and your family. Take care.

[@DitDitDitDahDahDahDitDitDit]

We need building materials that resist pests and mold. If you can’t buy them now, which is really unbelievable, can you paint or otherwise treat them in a way that’s economical? The industry is making all kinds of great, but indirect, attempts to reduce these problems. Lessening them at the source is another approach.