Equipt FAQ: National Luna Fridge/Freezer Controls

Learn more about how the control work on our National Luna Fridge/Freezers!
Shop National Luna Fridges: www.equipt1.co...

[@keithhart3212]

Just received 72l and took moments to connect and all's well.. The packing job these guys do is above and beyond the call. It has 3 boxes to insure against damage. And the unit works... Thanks guys\gals..

[@keithhart3212]

In case anyone wants to know, upon start up both sides at (2) was only pulling around 50 watts. After short period (10min) it was at temp. I live in Tuscon... Took almost half hour until it cycled again, I use a protective insulated cover too. Old fridge took 300 watts and ran almost continuously draining a 100ah overnight to 0 and shutting down. Luna had same goods inside and last night consumed about 1|10th. So I could use that battery for many days without charging.. Very comforting...

[@johnlucier5654]

I bought the 60l dual control 18 mos ago and could not be happier. Its not cheap but the best never is.

[@JosephNyirenda-rt1jz]

How to fix is on fault id

[@viajesjaipurofficial]

Hi Paul, awesome explanation. I have a Weekender 50L Twin freezer/fridge. It was working fine, but I have installed it in a new truck and I can't make it run. Pressing the Run button for three seconds has no response. The battery level lights are all on, and if I press the Alarm button it will turn on too, but the Up and Down buttons and Turbo button do nothing when pressed. Both Run and Fault Id lights are off. Do you know what could be wrong? Thanks in advance.

[@Equipt1]

Hi there, please email us at [e-mail] for assistance. If it worked fine in the first vheicle and does not work in the new vehicle, that would lead me to believe it's an issue with the new vehicle or the electrical system. First step would be to test it on a 120v AC outlet, which eliminates the variables within your 12v system. Email us and let us know what you find. We'll do our best to get this figured out. Thanks!

[@alexbarquin9]

Can one zone be turned off if we don't need both compartments? If it's possible, can we choose either fridge or freezer zone ir is it just ine specific one lets say, just the freezer could be turned off? Great video. Very informative 👍

[@Equipt1]

Hi there Alex, You cannot turn one side off individually. Both sides are always on but you can switch either to fridge or freezer. If I don't need the freezer side set at sub-freezing temps, I simply set it to the same refrigeration temperature on both sides. Depending on the fridge model, the freezer side may have 60mm insulation or 42mm insulation. Most folks will use the 60mm side as the freezer but either side can be used. The freezer side will have a -24C lowest temp setting and the fridge side will have a -18C. I personally set mine around 4 or 5 for refrigeration and -15 to keep frozen items frozen. Please reach out with any additional questions!

[@chrismarch6829]

Hi. I have the 72 L dual unit on my boat. It has been a sensational performer until yesterday. It came up with Fault code 2 relating to the vent fan. I disconnected the power and reconnected and it started ok indicating temps on both sides. Ran for a little while and then shut down. Have checked all fuses and input voltage is very healthy (13.2v). Now when I reconnect it, the displays show all numeric LEDs on for about 1 second (all “8s”) and then nothing. When I hold in the power on/off button for more than 3 secs, still nothing. Any thoughts? I haven’t run on AC yet to compare. It may be terminal 😫?

[@Equipt1]

Hi Chris, We might need to connect via email but in order to help others understand the fault, we can dive in here. Please note, the 888 flash upon startup is normal, these fridges go through a startup process and that is normal. First, we always suggest testing the fridge on both power sources; 12v and 120v. Two flash fault explanation: Fan over-current cut-out. There is a problem with the ventilation fan. It is possible that the ventilation fan is damaged. As far as the fan fault goes, first step would be to remove the fan from the condenser grate and see if it will fire up with a 12v source connected to the leads. What you will most likely find is a faulty fan and we would replace the fan under warranty if the it was within three years of original purchase. If the fan fires up, then we need to look into the control board or electronics module. See if you can check the fan functionality and let us know what you find. Thanks!

[@inthemaking980]

How do I identify a fault id?

[@Equipt1]

There is a fault light that flashes a series of flashes, here's the explanation: 1 Low voltage. This is shown when the DC supply voltage is low. The battery could be flat, wiring losses are too high or there is a poor connection to the power source. 2 Fan over-current cut-out. There is a problem with the ventilation fan. It is possible that the ventilation fan is damaged. 3 Motor start error. The compressor has not started successfully. This can happen in extreme environments where the refrigerator is heavily loaded & temperature is very high. 4 Minimum speed error. The motor cannot maintain a minimum speed of 1900 rpm. This can be the result of an Electronic Compressor Driver failure. 5 Thermal cut-out. The electronic circuitry has over-heated. This happens in very hot environments. This can occur when the fridge is over-loaded with warm contents and the ambient temperature is high. The electronics will re-set when the temperature has dropped. 6 Electronic Compressor Driver hardware failure. The most common fault we see is a low voltage fault which can be low voltage, a poor connection, loose plug, damaged wiring, incorrect wiring size, etc. Please reach out to [e-mail] if you have fault questions.