#FairmontProject

[@SuperSport01]

1. On any tubing put a hose clamp around the tubing to make nice straight cuts and leave it on while you clean up burrs on the cut. 2. You can weld a full bead or just put spot welds around the end of steel tubing to keep the hose from slipping off. 3. On aluminum tubing you can roll your own bead with a wire crimping tool. I use Channel Lock 909. 4. Maximum Motorsports has K-member lowering kits to lower the engine. I think you have the choice of either 1/4" and 1/2" kits. Love the videos and I hope this helps.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thanks for the tips on the tubing. MM does have K member spacer kits. I got one, 1/2", and it worked perfect.

[@chipschweiss]

Even simpler, I have scuffed the pipe near the end with a course grinding wheel and made a lip with epoxy putty. Given the size of that tube and the boost, you may need that lip.

[@Mrnicguy00]

EricTheCarGuy Also, to get clearance for the aluminum tube over the hot side of the turbo; once you have it all plumbed the way you want. Put a dimple on the underside of the tube (the side you want to hide) to give it some space between the aluminum tube and the heat sleeve for the turbo. It won't restrict flow. That's what I would do personally.

[@christineniper9695]

Ericthecarguy you can use wore cripes pliers to make the bead around the end of the pipe, it works like a dream. It's the easiest and cheapest and most effective method of doing it

[@christineniper9695]

wire crimper*

[@IstasPumaNevada]

I appreciate you including the stuff that doesn't work out. It's a better representation of what a project is really like.

[@TempGuest7]

38 minutes of being comfy. Life is good.

[@johntho5674]

Hey Eric, I hope you received my thank you message! Thanks for everything you do. One of the top automotive repair channels on youtuve without a doubt. Very much appreciate all your work and help. Thanks Eric.

[@IsadoreWoW]

I don't know what I'm going to do when this build is finished, I really enjoy seeing it come together through your eyes, well camera man brian's eyes.

[@RobCarstuff9112]

We are not "smarter than you" hindsight is 20/20.Thanks Eric!

[@griesrunner]

To help keep the intercooler tubes from blowing off run a weld around the pipe. It'll do the same thing as the bead that was originally on there.

[@RFmaster89]

Great Video Eric - it just to show how much time, thought and effort involved in building a custom ride. Unless you have done custom work yourself before you'll never know or appreciate trial and error that goes into building a custom. Sure, TV shows make it easy while packaging into allotted 46 minute run time ( the other 16 minutes are used by mindless commercials), but almost never show countless re-do's or scuffed knuckles that result in a build. Eric - keep doing your thing!!! You have plenty of patience which some of us are in dire need of.

[@ThisDoesNotCompute]

Hey Eric, just a friendly suggestion -- you might want to consider dropping the audio level by a few dB during scenes when you're using loud tools like grinders. It can be a pretty big jump in gain going from scenes where you're talking to the tool getting fired up, especially for those of us who listen with headphones. Love how this project is coming along, seems to be as much of a nice break from repair videos for us as it is for you!

[@ericthecarguy]

It's not a jump in gain at all. All audio is set to -3db when I edit. It's just a harsh sound and seems louder. That said, I actually do this intentionally. Beethoven used to do this in his symphonies to wake up people in the audience that might be sleeping. Since my videos tend to run on the long side, I see this as a similar approach. Thanks for your input.

[@kertosyt]

it actually wakes me up -,-

[@bluespig1]

Just listen to it on a slightly lower volume.

[@klownskull702]

I felt I had to turn my volume down and Wright a comment. because it was so harsh I get the wake people up but I was watching in the same room as a sleeping baby. and if she wakes up I most likely can't finish the video.

[@gweedomurray9923]

Enjoy watching the process very much, Eric! My suggestion for hood fit: build an inverted hood scoop with the opening facing the cabin, tapering down toward the front.

[@hutchingjc]

Eric, I've always loved how detailed your videos are. Keep up the good work. I think you got a little blinded by the fact that it was a ready made kit. I think you'll be way happier with the end result by totally reworking the intercooler piping. The turbo is positioned so nicely to go straight down into the intercooler and you have a ton of room to work with on the other side of the engine to get back up to the carb. Good luck, I can't wait for the next video.

[@000647539]

Everyone does silly things at times. Differences is your showing us all of yours. Still pretty talented to me mate. Keep it up. :)

[@jett4777]

Gotta love the turbo v8! Must go like a dream..

[@garagedilettante1128]

Greetings Eric, thanks for these detailed series. In fact, thank you for all your videos, they area great. I suggest that when you finish the build, make a one hour long version of the complete build for the lazy one to watch. I bet it will be very entertaining and popular!

[@MVanDii]

Hey Eric, neat mechanic/fabricator trick here = Go to your local big-box store and pick up a large wire crimper and grind off the end, all but the crimping part. Now you have a hand held bead maker!

[@ericthecarguy]

Great idea! Thanks!

[@MVanDii]

Learned that one on a boosted lawn mower! .... The parents weren't too happy when they found out why their mower didn't work anymore....

[@nerysalguero3956]

For the piping where you gonna cut. You can grab a scribe and gonna put a x pattern around the outer part where the hose with clamp so it can get an extra bit of bite.

[@ADRIAAN1007]

maybe i missed something but is there a reason why the charge from the turbo has to enter the right side of the inter cooler looking from the front of the car because if you swapped it so the charge goes from the turbo down and forward, to the left side of the intercooler across to the right, back into the engine bay and up to the hat

[@ryboodle]

ADRIAAN1007 first 30 seconds of the video...

[@ericthecarguy]

I covered that in the beginning of the video.

[@ddd228]

Oil filter/feed lines may be in the way.A/C too.Go inside the drivers fender?

[@Shadows-yw7ii]

i was thinking the same thing but he was just using what he had available at the time "for testing purposes only" lol when he does change it i hope he does it that way

[@patw52pb1]

A few suggestions: Invest in a bead roller, the end result is superior to crimping or welding. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive unit as does Eastwood, Jegs, Summit and numerous others. If using more often Vibrant makes an excellent bead roller. If wanting to keep the cost down, contact a HVAC sheet metal shop, many will roll beads on your tubes for a reasonable price. Have a machine shop mill approximately 0.500 inch off of the bottom of the carb hat and recreate the sealing O-ring recess to allow hood clearance. Or use spacers on the K-member unless that adversely affects the vehicle attitude, suspension and alignment geometry. I suspect you are going to reroute the charge air piping to feed the carb hat from the drivers side (reverse the flow through the intercooler) for a cleaner, cooler installation.

[@QUICKSILVERappletree]

Eric put some rubber protection around the lip of that hole you cut so vibration and engine movement won't cause the sheet metal to cut through the aluminum tube

[@VeiRoNv2]

Hunter RedBlood Trim seal works well.

[@ericthecarguy]

I plan to! In fact, I came up with a really cool solution for that this week using a piece of fuel line.

[@Kyle-Veilleux]

hey eric, a tip ive learned with radiators and inter coolers and such to prevent damage, tape some card board over the fins to keep them from getting bent in case it gets bumped..

[@pizzamangargatuloth4804]

Really excited to see this through to the end!!!!!

[@bullseyestrat]

For the hood issue I would do a very subtle hood scoop that's the same color to help with the clearance. Just a tiny one that blends and looks almost stock.

[@MrBaconstrips13]

Thank you for watching the video? Thank you for making the video!!!

[@johnivkovich8655]

great editing on this one. Your video's keep getting better.

[@hhrca]

2:56 Quite a pun there, Eric :D btw, great stuff, I love these random coverage type of videos, the car is looking great, cant wait for a final footage :D

[@ramonpagan695]

Hi Ecric am not a mechanic but I enjoy watching your videos.

[@kennethbonar2173]

Eric, it won't look as pretty but I would insulate that final charge pipe as well. Because that downpipe even with the wrapping will transfer tons of heat into your final charge air. That cooler air benefits a carb setup much more than an injected. Also all of those trimmed up pipes should have a bead rolled on them because they are known to blow off even at lower boost levels. I wish you the best and have been watching for years, good luck.

[@lylepeterson3510]

Eric, You must know someone that has or works at a sheet metal shop. They could put the beads on the ends of the pipe with, of all things, a bead roller. Much easier and neater than welds on the pipe. Keep up the great work,

[@John-Perry]

It seems like lowering the engine would be the best option. 1. It fixes the hood clearance problem 2. It gives you a bit more clearance between the exhaust and the intake piping 3. It'll make the intake piping square with the carburetor hat, making the whole build look a lot cleaner

[@ericthecarguy]

I installed a set of spacers under the K member and it worked great. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog/1981-march-2017-newsletter

[@yeesenchai]

John Perry or just lose the carburetor and go fuel injection

[@FoolishPursuitForce]

Hey cool, you delivered :) Wish you a great deal of success with your build!

[@WreckDiver99]

You really need a belt/disc sander...I know a grinder will work, but a belt/disk sander combo will benefit you so much. I never realized how much I needed one until I got one.

[@ericthecarguy]

I have to agree with that. I have been doing a lot of that type of work lately and a belt sander would be awesome.

[@WreckDiver99]

Harbor Freight Special...have one...not great, but would do what you need to do for cheap. If you burn it up, it's only $60...or go all out and get one of those big boys from Powermatic. :) LOL. Great content!

[@corygilbert5666]

A shorter intake manifold would probably help, not sure if you want to change that though. Also if it's touching, the engine will rock side to side and a bit up and down over speed bumps, if it's a bad bump it may make a small dent in the hood. Also it'll scrape as you dump the clutch and rock the engine to the side as it loads. So, an air gap is ideal. 1/"2 is probably plenty. Another options is a lower profile top hat, pretty sure there's a shiny one that fits. :) Love the videos, been following since like 2 years.

[@justinrobertson5493]

There's a trick with vice grips I believe to put a nice lip onto pipes, comes out pretty good.

[@pyroblasten]

You could slit some rubber fuel line down it's length and put it in around the hole in your inner fender so it acts like a giant grommet for your charge pipe.

[@Deucemr2s]

Eric try hood risers to to space your hinges from the hood might give you some clearance as well as air ventilation to keep it a little cooler under the hood

[@poonjaber1122]

Wooo buddy u got ur work cut out ... keep truckin tho I can't wait to see the first startup and test drive.🏎

[@dyingbreed7740]

Dude! You're famous! Nearly a million subscribers and I just watched a Mighty Car Mods episode of unicorn circuit and they mentioned you!

[@sjremondini]

Love your videos Eric! Keep up the good work! PS: my experience with those tubes is that you can't expect that those will still in place "forever" without the groves on the sides.. you can wrench down those clamps as tight as you can but sooner or later those tubes will came off

[@ericthecarguy]

I honestly doubt it. I'm not running crazy boost, 9psi tops. Also, you'd be surprised at how well the scuffing of the tube helped. Thanks for your comment.

[@daviDJacome1975]

thats why i still like oldschool builds. in the old days you just had to fit the engine, fuel lines and axhaust. now with the turbo and intercooler you see more pipes than engine block in the engine bay

[@cobra454tim]

Eric if you're worried about heat transfer for the induction with that pipe maybe you should go with a plastic unit or some sort of phenolic resin to resist the heat better.

[@chickenfishhybrid44]

A note on the heat transfer through your intercooler piping, while keeping the pipe away from heat is obviously good, keep in mind that since your running a carb, the air passing through the fuel spray actually cools the charge as well, so not a huge deal. You could always wrap the pipe or have it ceramic coated too.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thanks for your input, but like I said at the beginning of the video, I plan to change the cold side routing.

[@chickenfishhybrid44]

Right, i recall that. My point was maybe you dont even need to change it, at least i wouldnt worry about heat transfer that much

[@cardude59]

lower the engine as much as possible, lower center of gravity. p.s. don't forget to check your drive shaft angles!. HOWEVER if that is not possible, lower the carb emove spacer if any\ machine an amount off the manifold carb mount. OR.. get a cowl induction hood or hood scoop! always looks cool! agree on rerouting the hot and cold side of the intercooler seems that would be a much simpler way to go. (more room too) great video, thanks for reminding me that I still have 8% of my build left to do and the 1st 2 % only took 7 months to complete. 90% was done in about 14 months. good luck and look forward to the burnouts.

[@christineniper9695]

you can use wire cripes to make those bumps on the end of the pipe to hold the clamps

[@emptytomb4967]

love the workflow psychology. also, i'm interested to see if you lift up the cooler, or how you cover it up.

[@krush1202]

Try cutting a wedge out of the fitting on top of the carb. It'll be a bit of a jig saw puzzle to fit the pieces to minimize turbulence, but it would be MUCH more simple than some of the other possibilities you mentioned in this episode. (Just a thought) Good luck!

[@squangledangle5897]

your like to dislike is like the best on KZbin! love the videos man they've helped me more then once!

[@GF_Burke]

Coming nicely man. Older vid, probably already did something by now, but. For that hole you chopped in the side for cold air, ~ Get an old RCA cable, cut to length for around the hole, now make a slit all the way down it, pull the copper out. Bam, you have a rubber grommet. Use some sealant. Save on vibration and wear for AL tube.

[@ReeceRamsey]

Use some washers on the back hood mounts to space it up. Old racetrack trick to clearancing under hood stuff and bonus venting

[@MycoolNZ]

Getting very exciting now! can't wait to see it complete. then hopefully........................ a new project car lol thanx

[@mtktm]

for the intercooler tube flares, you can tig a new bead on there instead of having it flared

[@mtktm]

To add, I would have routed the turbo outlet to the passenger side of the intercooler, then rotate the hat and routed the intercooler piping to the driver side of the intercooler.

[@mtktm]

to add again, you can get stainless steel pipe sections from muffler shops

[@mtktm]

For lowering the engine, you can put/weld spacers between the chassis and the K member, then adjust the coilovers to adjust ride height. ( don't remember if you have coilovers)

[@georgepretnick4460]

Where the heater hose is close to the fuel line, insulate the hose so it doesn't heat the fuel. I learned that the hard way.

[@matt270avian]

This might sound a little rigged, but you can take a rubber boot meant for a vent pipe on the roof of a house and use it on that hole you made for the charge pipe>carb. If you take your time it makes for a very tidy install.

[@williamcarson423]

Eric you can take a pair of vice grips and take a washer on one side and use those to crimp a bead on the aluminum piping

[@ericthecarguy]

Interesting.

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

A length of heater hose slit makes a nice grommet for fender hole, cushion pipe rattle and wear. Insulation wrap cold pipe, too? Leftover Oliver hose?

[@matthewwalley8030]

Hey Eric love your videos i look forward to seeing your videos every friday night it the best end to my week i could ask for. Have you thought about swapping the hot and cold sides so that the cold side is on the drivers side that way you have heaps more room to work with and you dont have to try and fit it past the turbo.

[@TheOnlyToblin]

This was my thought as well. Hotside and coldside both competing for space doesn't seem efficient.

[@johnyman13]

Matthew Walley my thought also.... it really looks a bit ugly having those pipes crossing like that... difficult to make, not efficient, and ugly... change it eric, it will be a lot nicer and worth the effort

[@ericthecarguy]

Did you watch the beginning of the video? ;)

[@TheOnlyToblin]

EricTheCarGuy Yes. But since we do not know what your future plans are, we are still offering suggestions (and discussing).

[@ericthecarguy]

Totally Legit Gaming [TLEG] Fair enough. I just got a lot of comments just like yours in previous videos. That's why I dropped in the new intro, to address those comments. In fact, I believe I said exactly what you suggested in the beginning of the video. I also gave credit to all those that suggested I do it that way. Thanks for your comments.

[@alexhall6396]

if you fab up a small spacer setup between the crossmember and the body it will lower the engine and create that small amount of hood clearance you need without messing with the motor mounts. the negative side is that it will give you a body lift in the front so to speak in the amount of spacing that you choose to go with. but with your lowering springs and the fact that you may only need a less than an inch of spacing to achieve the clearance the stance might still be acceptable and everything else like the turbo piping, wiring, and steering shaft should still fit just fine.

[@ericthecarguy]

I actually ended up getting a set of spacers from Maximum Motorsports that did the trick. I also installed coil overs in the front so ride height isn't an issue. Thanks for the suggestion!

[@alexhall6396]

thanks for the videos! really enjoying the video series of the fairmont build. can't wait to see the "end result". obviously there is no end to project cars until the wallet is tapped out, but it'll be awesome to see you with the car up and you enjoying the fruits of your labor. Keep up the great work!

[@Brendonsanya]

Hood scoop Eric, that is really cool ;)

[@filibertobarrera3839]

Glad to see you haven't gone bazzurk

[@Rotttman]

We should be watching you run this thing down the quarter mile but we're still test fitting! YAWN

[@j.m.74]

If this were my project, I think I'd cut out the bit of hood hitting that part mounted to the carb... then try to find or form a piece of sheet steel which I'd weld to the hood, creating the necessary clearance without altering how the hood is mounted. Heck, one of my previous cars (1985 Dodge Shelby Charger) had a bit of a hump in the hood direct from the factory.

[@dankane5422]

hey Eric they make a pretty inexpensive tool to put that rolled Edge on the pipe it kind of looks like a pair of pliers

[@TheEiger400]

What if you put a small hood scoop on where the hat is touching the hood it would let your hood clear and it might help cool your intake charge a little more

[@bobbyb9718]

To make the hood clear the carb hat, you could cut the hood on both sides at the body line, and scab in sheet metal to make the middle section just a little taller. Do it at an angle so that the front of the hood is the same, just a little taller in the back center. Should retain the sleeper look well, as long as it isn't made too tall.

[@Ottonic6]

Cut a hole in the hood where it is touching the carb tube (If you don't mind altering the stock hood). Then make a cool looking fabrication on the hood.

[@MrTimdtoolman1]

I enjoyed watching the vid Eric. Maybe a different/ lower profile carb hat, or a low profile hood scoop of some kind to address the hood clearance issue. Great video though, keep up the great work Brother.

[@jayinmi3706]

It also looks like (if you weren't trying to use the factory intake hole) you could go turbo into the intercooler on the passenger side, come out of the driver's side (where you appear to have a ton of open area) and up to the carb. I know it was a kit, but seems like it might be a better way to route it.

[@jth1987leb]

To get that lip on the tube just is a wire crimp part on wire cutters. It'll take awhile but you'll get that lip

[@benwoodall3173]

There needs to be lips on the ends cold side intake pipes where the silicon joiners join two pipes together otherwise the boost pressure will blow the pipes apart.

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

Aluminium is a great heat conductor. And this aluminium pipe practically touches the hot exhaust. I know it's shielded, but it will heat that pipe up nicely and counteract the intercooler. There should be a distance between the two, even if it's only 1cm of air (or any other material that is not very heat-conductive, maybe there are distance pieces for that kind of setup which you can cut to your needs and somehow attach to the aluminium tube?)

[@johnferguson7235]

Like most of these projects, you will know exactly how it should be done as soon as you are finished. By the way, the folks at a local radiator shop might be able to roll those beads onto the end of the turbo pipes where you clamp on the rubber connectors.

[@JerryR390]

Eric, i know you said it already but that is too much piping, instead of running that long pipe across the front from the turbo outlet to the intercooler just run a pipe from the turbo to the right side of the intercooler.. that way from the left side of the intercooler is a shorter piping to the carb hat.

[@ericthecarguy]

You're right, I did say that already. ;)

[@q......]

Not exactly, you said you plan on re-routing, but didn't specify. You can route tons of ways, just saying re-routing while still going through the process of opening the hole wider on the fender makes it seem like you are committed to cold air coming out of that side.

[@ryanwirling5099]

EricTheCarGuy how about putting a scoop in the hood Tht might clear the air cleaner

[@q......]

That would also destroy the "sleeper" aspect...

[@Traveling425]

qballtvp how about a small power bulge as the flatter carb hat didn't work on the dyno, and with the sporty wheels and intercooler on display a small bump on the hood would go unnoticed

[@Clearanceman2]

I'm going to assume you fixed the hood clearance but if not, dint your intake hat thing right where the threaded rod is. Make it a concave round depression for the nut to screw down into. So when the nut is tight, it's even in height with the top of the intake hat thing.

[@draggonhedd]

You could trim a CM or 2 off of the carb mating surface of the intake elbow, and that would lower it down some without sacrificing much. You could also go old school racer and pop up the back of the hood like the old street race guys. Also helps with engine bay temps.

[@Jacksonkellyfreak]

Eric why not just run the turbo into the passenger side of the intercooler and run the cold side out the driver's side and rout it that way? You're traversing the engine bay twice. Plus your tube that runs into the carb hat is right next to the screaming hot turbine, and no matter what it will negate at least some of the intercooler's efficiency.

[@6552Gump]

to make the lip on the end of the pipe you are using that you ended up cutting off. you can use a c4imping tool for putting spades on and walk around the end and it will put a perfect lip for you hose clamp

[@rudis1994]

I would sugest to make a bead on those pipe ends, it is big possibility that pressure going to push boot off.

[@eli25jk70]

i get that the kit routes the piping that weird way but it would make more sense to just do custom piping and route it the way where it would flow better away from the exhaust side.

[@paulsmith9341]

It's there a lower profile carb hat? Any hood bracing you can cut away? How about a hole in the hood with a little wart like bump that is inconspicuous.

[@QUICKSILVERappletree]

get a 76 to 78 cobra mustang scoop, they mount opening toward windshield to hide hole if need be or have some material removed from intake where carb mounts

[@ericthecarguy]

Thanks for the suggestion. I solved it by dropping the K member. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog/1981-march-2017-newsletter

[@970357ers]

You need to put the o ring on the carburetter as it will affect hood clearance and threaded rod length. Also, a domed nut would look a lot nicer.

[@MrNotorius5500]

If you had it handy Eric, a chop saw would have been perfect to cut that tubing straight with. But deep down you knew that already :P

[@eemarko]

"Still got a fair amount of work to do"I see what you did there

[@MohammedBE]

I like your pun at 2:56 "there's still a fairmont of work to do"

[@purveyoroftheobvious7046]

I thought there was a rubber seal or gasket that sat on the carb right below the hat...would that make the entire assembly higher?

[@anomamos9095]

To put a lip around the edge you just need a rounded bit of metal a vice to hold it in and a rubber hammer or a block of wood and a regular hammer. You mount the anvil in the vice place the tube over the anvil and rest it about fifteen millimetres from the edge and hit the tube with the Hammer above the anvil. You hit it just hard enough to force a dent to protrude but not so hard that it is more than a little bump you work around the tube until you have a slight lip then go around again a little harder and keep going round til the lip is high enough to be useful. Fifteen millimetres is just over half an inch.

[@dailydose5988]

Love these vids! Keep it up Eric!

[@chrissannes1348]

could you use hood spacers? that would take some away from the "sleeper look". if thats what your going for. badass build by the way.

[@VioleNFaN]

I wounder what an increase it will be on the inlet temperature running that cold air right over an glowing red hot turbo and downpipe...

[@shalnks]

Ref the hood whatever you do will torque twist make an impact on the position of the hood.

[@MrCaprinut]

EricTheCarGuy for the hood use a hood spacer as the bug guys are using. Simply put a alloy block that moves the mounting point to the hood higher up. That will also help suck out the engine bay heat...

[@nilay.k.srivastava]

Modify the section of the hood fouling with the carburetor intake to include an artificial air snorkel that sits around 30-35 mm above the top surface of the hood(you see that on some diesel SUVs as an intercooler feed). That should give you enough clearance to get going as far as the hood is concerned. It will look good as well.

[@evolutionglitch4739]

I'm sure someone beat me to it, but if I were you, I would swap your hot and cold side on the intercooler and clock your carb cover towards the driver side. That will keep the heat away from your cold charge air, and even better, it'll shorten your charged air route so you have less delay, and more throttle response.

[@evolutionglitch4739]

lol, you said that at the end of the video.

[@broseph1928]

the ridge around that pipe you cut is a necessity, it keeps the silicone fitting from blowing off under pressure. you can use pliers to get it done but I'm sure there is a tool you can get.

[@broseph1928]

not sure if 8lbs is enough to blow it off though

[@DeagledSmeagol]

Probably not. I have one tube like that on my car and it didnt become a problem untill about 18lbs.

[@DnX5]

you could cut the bottom of carb cover, if it's shape allows it. for turbo heat problem put a heat cover on intake aluminium pipe and for future, if rubber starts to slide off of the cut pipes you can weld some beads on the edges. can you explain why you choose carburetor over injection?

[@Rik.B]

Still loving it, please keep showing the challenges you face with final fitment. Also what are you going to do about all the engine rattles and knock on the bodywork, I know you said a bit of rubber on the cold air intake but what about things like the carburetor on the bonnet, (sorry hood LOL!) when it is running, that means even more clearance required surely?

[@ericthecarguy]

I was able to solve the hood clearance problem with spacers under the K member. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog/1981-march-2017-newsletter

[@lukee2495]

Though some people scoff at blowing through a carburetor, the latent heat of vaporization actually makes it so that the fuel that enters the intake is far cooler than if done through a fuel injected system. David Freiburger of Hot Rod had a nice article on this phenomenon when he discussed his Bonneville Camaro setup. A lot of times the intercooler is less effective than the actual aerosolization of the fuel itself

[@ArchimedeanEye]

All of which is completely irrelevant for a street car with enormous radiant heat induced under bonnet temps and endlessly variable engine load. Very different to a wide open throttle salt-flat vehicle or any race car where the sheer volume of 'fogged' fuel is able to absorb heat. Will not be the case in a street car with so much more variability, far less WOT situations and far less movement to rid the engine bay of radiant heat.

[@lukee2495]

Thanks for the reply! You'll still see a cooling effect of having the gas go through the intake rather than on a direct port setup. Yes, you wouldn't want to push all that much uncooled boost through a street setup. But I've actually had my butterflys be cool to the touch even after running awhile

[@mastergx1]

I use a baby grinder and a metal cutting disk to cut stainless. Same sort of thing as the die grinder with the cut off wheel but bigger and more control. I usually get a nice straight cut

[@WinchesterWoodWorks]

did you ever try to reverse the pipe? The ocd in me kinda hoped that you would try that on video 🤗

[@chevymuddigger19]

Eric I wonder if the new k member you have installed will lower the motor in the cradle and allow clearance for the top hat. Or completely the opposite lol. love the builds tho. and also can't wait for next meet up. YOURS TRULY. (THE WATER BOY) H2O GUYS LOL

[@ArchimedeanEye]

Man this is draaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagging on and on and on and on.... Sheesh.

[@CT_Taylor]

Well its a long process.... custom car, engine, transmission, differential, battery replacement, fabrication..... it all takes time and money.

[@TheOnlyToblin]

Welcome to project cars.

[@stanleyrobinson7309]

looking good take your time a get it right eric

[@ArchimedeanEye]

Welcome to poor planning and execution. NOT welcome to project cars. Eric has total freedom with the build yet does the 'final' fitting without even properly cleaning the engine bay, then routes the charge pipes from the passenger side into the drivers then back across to the passenger side right next the turbine housing. Eric's 'parts fitting' dealership thinking makes him a real beginner at this, so he should stop pretending to be some sort of project car authority. Sorry if the truth hurts.

[@TheOnlyToblin]

William Crowell lol. Apparently you woke up on the wrong side of the bed today.