Hold it Down Ep.35

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Thank you, be safe, and be grateful.

[@rjamsbury1]

The person who ends up buying this house is very lucky and will have a trouble free home for life. I love your attention to detail.

[@9and7]

Only way to build. Get it right the first time so it's for all time.

[@richardfowler3254]

I would consider moving to Oregon to purchase this home...

[@markusayt]

There should rightfully be a bidding war for this house. Great video series.

[@timfalardeau9753]

If I had 1/2 million people watching me build a house, I'd pay a lot of attention to detail too... lol Bless this man...

[@rjamsbury1]

@@timfalardeau9753 lol - you have a point but I reckon Scott would do it just the same without the audience

[@salvadorcortez890]

I could watch this man talk about concrete and concrete accessories all day long!

[@Connecticutsparky]

Hank hill joke there

[@hgbugalou]

yep, I tell you hwat.

[@lancemcque1459]

...my 2nd love is concrete and concrete accessories...

[@blystovski]

Thank you for fighting against the most dangerous phrase in the English language - "we've always done it this way"! I appreciate your videos not because I share your trade or ever hope to do any of this myself, but because the way your handle yourself within your trade is the way I hope to handle myself in mine, thoughtfully and with integrity. Cheers!

[@jordandempsey3487]

Never thought I'd have to explain to my wife why I am so excited about construction videos being uploaded...

[@nancyanngambino1053]

Jordan Dempsey I’m a gal and I love essential craftsman!

[@lesb6542]

It is in the UK

[@royhicks1628]

Did anyone else notice the job site was clean, no wooden forms from the earlier pour, no broken or leftover concrete blocks laying around in the way. big thumbs up!

[@rjtumble]

Nate, I love how you're using the arrows to point out things Scott is talking about, good job.

[@turtleairships]

YES! super job. building the hose is one thing.....putting the videos is much, much more

[@mattcartwright8272]

Scott was very complementary about the masons in the previous video. So I am surprised to see that in this video the blockwork looks pretty rough in places.

[@tilehelperdan]

Split face can vary in thickness some. They make the side that shows look good. And the block that's getting buried doesn't get a ton of attention either. No sense in dumping extra labor into making something pretty that gets back filled.

[@dustonscharbrough9616]

Same

[@Bill_N_ATX]

Y’all worry about the shakes and thus bolt it down. We worry about the wind and thus bolt it down, put up similar sheer walls, and then lots of hurricane straps. Let’s all pray we never need any of them.

[@steamfan7147]

They are like fire extinguishers,better to have them and not need them, than to need them and not have them.

[@phildcrow]

Indeed. I'm building a spec house and I now realize I should have just bought some stock in Simpson. Probably going to be a better return than the house!

[@bob_frazier]

William, on the Oregon Coast we worried about both wind and quakes. Huge shear walls and gigantic straps and bolts.

[@timfalardeau9753]

EC has cornered the market on construction videos.... a soup to nuts series explaining all this stuff is EXACTLY what the iNet needed... Let's all take a minute to pay homage to EC, and vow to induct him into the iNet hall off fame with the likes of Larry Haun, and Norm Abrahms...

[@TheAxecutioner]

Man, the bright sun casting shadows is absolutely unforgiving to any imperfections in the laid block, wow !

[@1sttigertiger426]

I also noticed excessively irregularities in the placement of the CMU. Shouldn't the vented CMU been the same width to ensure the same structural support? Maybe they could have doubled it with mesh in between.

[@TheJohndeere466]

Yes I agree. I realize some of this block will be below grade and the inside will just be a crawl space but this block laying is pretty rough. I bet if this guy layed his own block, it wouldn't look like this.

[@MSNsee4d]

I also noticed this.

[@nicpedia2432]

I was going to ask as well, seeing those shadows on blocks that protrude especially on that odd angle'd portion of the wall. Is that imperfection in block, meaning the block was set flat on the outside but was casted a bit extra wide? Or are these blocks we see that stick one way or another actually blocks that were laid too wet and they slowly moved out of plane?

[@thestonethatthebuilderrefu5231]

I was scrolling down to see if anyone else commented on this. Didn't get far

[@hellonoko]

Simpson has a very helpful engineering staff on their 800 number that can answer any questions about any of their products.

[@axesandalcohol3776]

Don't let this guy scare you away from building a house. It can be done. It's not easy and yes he is correct but there is lots of ways to do it and it's not as complicated as it sounds in these videos. However these are great videos and thank you for taking the time to make them.

[@billypilgrim7838]

Axes and alcohol depends on the codes

[@TheIronTank]

worked on a project where none of the anchors lined up remotely close to where the plate would eventually sit. Some were crooked, some were completely missed, and some were just dropped too far. Also because the foundation wasn't square to begin with, but you do what you gotta do. Total gongshow of a site. And then the prefabbed walls that arrived, holy shit were they a nightmare.

[@ecrusch]

The arrows and other video enhancements you are using Nate to help explain the process are really helpful. Thanks man.

[@zacharybrizek1252]

this man reminds me that there are still people in this world who when they speak you sit down shut up and listen

[@Lalfy]

Can you talk about why you chose concrete blocks with grout vs poured concrete (as you did with the retaining wall)? Thank you. Love your videos.

[@stoweman34]

He explains it in his previous video...when they’re putting the block up.

[@onlinetuna]

@phuc ewe id say this is it. Blocks have no formwork to worry about but are not as strong in bending. The retaining wall likely needed higher bending strength as it is pushed over by all that soil (in the 'out of plane' direction). The block walls are held at the bottom by the footing and at the top by the floor so dont bend anywhere near as much out of plane.

[@onlinetuna]

@Kurt Miller because it was cheaper? I know where I'm from you multiply the cost of a wall by up to 5 if using poured walls, as opposed to precast or CMU. Might be different in the US.

[@stoweman34]

Here in Oregon, where we live, poured stem walls are more cost effective and easier to waterproof below grade. I think the boss man was paying omage (sp?) to the craftspeople in Arizona who are masters in block walls. You can tell in the previous Arizona videos he has a huge amount of respect for those guys. The split face is also a historic look which will compliment this farmhouse style. Although I wanted to see poured stem walls , good on him for trying something different.

[@jconcrete0833]

Given my experience with PIP concrete walls, block consistently ends up being around 2/3 the cost and takes less time

[@benleaper6451]

The block work is not pretty but I have no doubt that its not going anywhere once filled. Maybe I can purchase this house for a slight discount now? Haha. Easy to fix it now with a texture before the house build resumes and block is back filled. But I just seen in the finish shot that no blockwork is really visible on this build. Great content so far.

[@4dak88]

for a framer who layed all the blocks he did actually pretty good! EC mentioned in the last video that the dude never layed block in a very long time, he was just framing houses and took this job for fun, scott and nate shoulda layed the blocks themselves, im sure with their skill level they coulda done it no problem and just as fast.

[@nazarie]

@@4dak88 That was *one* of the brothers and he was just there helping out on teh crew.

[@badlandskid]

About 11 years ago I did a foundation in Olympia Washington. Any time there was a conflict between the prints and application I was on the phone to the architect that did the design. More often than not he would come to the work site, make the appropriate clarifications and/or changes needed. Then I would have him write it out on MY copy of the prints, sign and date it. At first i could tell he was irritated with me, but by the end of the job we got along quite well. I think it is important to realize that to be human is to err and by calling him about some issues he had the opportunity to fix any discrepancies that were in the design. I know I’ve made my share of oppsies. That’s really the reason inspectors exist.

[@Olympia_Outdoors]

Hello from Olympia. I used to work on houses but now make anchor bolts an the like. Hope your staying busy!

[@Olympia_Outdoors]

In Olympia of course.

[@badlandskid]

Olympic Outdoors Dad the house is on W Bay Dr, just up the hill west of 4th Ave bridge. It is a Mediterranean style house with a red roof. I would stop at Dancing Goats on chilly wet mornings for a cup of coffee. 👍🏼

[@Bewefau]

Nah I think they exist because there's to many sue happen retards. That's why there are so many dumb law's some of those things should be common sense. But if somebody want's to build something how he wants than he should be able too but not hurt anyone else.

[@ericwalden8979]

As a building inspector, it’s nice to see a builder go above and beyond, over build a little, and provide the attention to detail as you do. The vast majority of builders I see, build to the minimum code and as quickly and inexpensively as possible. You sir, must sleep well at night. Kudos! Love your channel, and your work.

[@pyrael668]

Man, I remember back when I did modular home installs, the boss would give the plans to the mason and the mason would place the bolts (We don't need hold downs here) where he assumed the plans wanted them. They were NEVER 100% - to no fault of the mason either. The boss always pre-ordered the homes and had them delivered near the sites, so we talked him into letting us spend a day on the site when the mason was there just to measure the first floor "boxes" as we called them, and marking where to put the bolts. And, how much thread to leave exposed. Modulars are different, you lag the house to through a double box beam into the sill plate, so having the nuts above the sill by much meant we had to remove them, counter sink the sill and reinstall them, and THEN cut the excess of with a torch or grinder. So much easier after we started marking the locations and lengths ourselves. no more floor joists being shifted to accommodate a poorly placed bolt.

[@hjvisagie]

Maybe a silly question but why do people in North America build Wood frame houses? Here in South Africa 99% of houses is built from brick and mortar. Wood is SUPER expensive here. a Brick house seem so much stronger to me and we don’t really have people with the skills to build it out of wood. Why do you recon wood frame houses is so normal and common in the USA?

[@5x535]

Because wood is considerably less expensive here. There has always been an abundance of lumber in North America.

[@rentbennett]

And brick and mortar isn't always appropriate in an earthquake zone.

[@hjvisagie]

rentbennett Did not know that!

[@matthewhall5571]

Wood is well appreciated on the US west coast because, if you anchor it to the foundation properly like Scott and Nate did in this video, it's extremely earthquake resistant. However if you go to Thailand absolutely everything is concrete because the termites in southeast Asia are absolutely insane and they're able to eat an entire wood house within a few years. You have to pick the right materials for your environment. Matt Risinger did a show on Switzerland and Germany recently. Everything they did was wood because they have so much of it they can replant trees forever and never run out.

[@murraystewartj]

This is so important, not only for new construction but for renovation as well. Back in '97 I (as a relative novice) took on the job of raising my 1922 house 4.5 feet and, after cutting the old pony walls off the main floor structure, filled in with new framing to essentially add a story to the house. This was on Vancouver Island, another area just waiting for the "big one", so I did my research. Had to drill for approved anchor bolts into the old foundation and went above what code then required to place metal connectors between the mud sill and the new studs as well as connecting those studs to the existing house framing above. Was it a lot of work? Yes. But it's best practice, especially if you and your young family are going to be living there. Attention to detail takes time but in the end saves time and, in the worst case, lives.

[@Mrcaffinebean]

I like your hats buddy. Gotta keep the heat off!

[@kengamble8595]

Bet those come from Arizona ! 😊 🔥🔥🔥

[@ecteam276]

@@kengamble8595 Yep!

[@lint2023]

Yep, and skin cancer protection. I use one for long hours of hiking in the AZ desert often.

[@RudyeMcGlothlin]

Where can I get one from? Those are great hats and I’m doing a lot outdoors these days.

[@lint2023]

@@RudyeMcGlothlin Both Ace and True Value hard stores. $15.

[@klmbuilders5385]

Where I live and work the general consensus on crawl space vents is not to have any. A better option is to seal the crawl space and condition it as you would the living area. Vented spaces are an invitation to moisture and premature wood rot, not to mention mold and fungus growing under the floor.

[@aussiebloke609]

It may depend on local conditions. Oregon is rather well known for its high rainfall, so it's unlikely you'll keep moisture from leeching up out of the dirt...so ventilating it makes sense in this situation. If you have a dry climate, I'm guessing it's probably less of an issue.

[@kmmk8326]

While bringing a crawlspace into the conditioned space is pretty much a must-have for regions with humid summers and air-conditioned interiors, it's not done much in Oregon because our summers aren't very humid. The risk of condensation on undersides of floor framing is, historically, very low here and thus the added cost of enclosing the crawlspace isn't seen as a good value.

[@billypilgrim7838]

KLM Builders an access panel comes in handy though

[@johnwildermuth3136]

You know you've lived in California too long when not only do you refer to the geologists they interview on the news after earthquakes by their first names only, but you have a favorite.

[@johnsrabe]

Lucy!

[@kengamble8595]

Might as well do it right the first time ! Thanks for sharing and take care. 👍

[@richardfowler3254]

When I was still working and training apprentice's I would always tell them that there is always enough time to do it the second time so just do it right the first time and you just saved time...

[@charleshart5563]

That would be an expensive 2nd time.

[@CDeBuysere]

Does the garage roof ridge terminate behind the main house rake edge? By the photo at 8:34 it would seem like a tough/impossible detail to keep water tight. It looks like the water running down the roadside face of the garage roof would run into the soffit underneath the main house rake edge. Hopefully I'm not seeing that correctly. Love the channel. Keep cranking out great content.

[@essentialcraftsman]

You are seeing that right and I am working out the cricket solution I hope!!!

[@MagnumVideos]

As I mentioned, we just poured our concrete foundation (footings and lower level basement walls) and my concrete crew didn't use those. They DID use the anchor bolts stuck into the wet mix at the top of the walls. Maybe it's because we don't have the earthquake potential. Or maybe that's all building code requires in this area. I hope they didn't leave anything out that's important.I included that part in my latest video of our building project series. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS BY THE WAY.

[@badlandskid]

Magnum probably both. The country is separated into seismic zones in the code book based on probability of earthquakes. The codes in any given area are based on that data. Certain zones are much more relaxed, others require certain elements be designed by structural engineers to resist earthquakes.

[@tylerkurfees4762]

Lord you could climb that block wall with boxing gloves. Yeesh that’s some ugly looking block work.

[@susanbarbier5053]

The future home owners are going to have a step by step video series showing how their house was built. They can go back and see, “oh, that’s where the wall ends under our floor.” Or, “yes, you can see the anchors were placed there so don’t drill into that part of the wall to hang a planter.” Or something like that. That to me is well worth paying extra for.

[@markchelak]

Hi - great videos - why not consider cutting all of the sill boards and lay them along the top of the stem walls / layout the vertical framing locations then drill the holes for the hold downs and for the sill bolt locations / this way everything will work and your vertical framing layout will already be done. I am going to build a new home in Sedona and am trying to work through some of the tricky bits.....is this possible?

[@brians2873]

Nothing says 'I don't give a damn' like this hack job of block foundation. I've seen laborers put up better walls.

[@deezynar]

Tell us what you believe is the better way to do it.

[@maycatyuiop]

Smart idea having a framer come in before you place hold downs. As a prior carpenter I'm pretty used to notching out studs and it's a pain and looks awful. Would it be a good POA to pre mark top and bottom plates while placing tie-downs?

[@gowingtd]

Have a question about the masons and the finish on the blocks. I noticed a couple of shadows between the rows and it looked like the blocks deviated a little bit from center. What are the tolerances that are acceptable for a masonry wall finish?

[@gregwolters2]

Hey brother. Love your vids. I’m a building contractor in Orlando. Been doing it for 35 years. You do things the way I do it. It’s imperative that this part is done right. Have one issue. The masons did a terrible job on the block work. I know brick will cover. But still☹️

[@TyphoonVstrom]

Rebar is cheap, bolts are cheap. Better to be looking at them now, than looking for them later. No one ever said "I wish I had used less rebar".

[@gregarioussolitudinist5695]

Great job. Mother Nature tends to wreak havoc in unequal measure to all taken precautions. Holding a building firmly in place on undulating earth seems like a fool's errand. Would you not want flex, instead?

[@JK-tm7vj]

Your videos are realy good and interesting especially the ones abought forgingbut i like the others as well. Ihave seen thevi deo where you introduced your large gas forge. I like the design the ribbon burners and the possibility to lift it up and enlarge it with just putting some bricks under it. Have you thought about building a insolatet divider wich you put in the middle of the forge, so that you culd use the forge with only one Burner efficient for smaller projekts, or you could both parts with different temperatures. What do you think about putting a high temperatur thermometer in in every half of the Forge than you would know the exact Temp inside the forge, if you ad a Thermostat like in modern gasheating systems you could use the forge like a hardening oven.Greetings from Germany and sorry for my bad english.

[@doinjusfine1]

I know everyone likes to give pats on the back, and words of encouragement, but I must say.. the brick mason really could had gotten the blocks straighter and did a better job on the mortar. I'm quite sure they knew this was getting videoed. The vent block had mortar globbed up in it and the above/below alignment was bad. Even if it's in the crawlspace it matters. This was shortcutted badly I'm sorry to say.

[@leestewart1848]

I was thinking the same & i'm not trade. I just wondered if it was acceptable if it's not going to be seen? Also it prob doesn't rain 24/7 there

[@billypilgrim7838]

doinjusfine1 what makes you think they're brick masons

[@doinjusfine1]

@@billypilgrim7838 block mason then...

[@kevocos]

00:06:14 That blockwork ain't looking too smart.

[@seephor]

I would be tempted to remove it and rebuild since the concrete isn't in there yet. That's unacceptable work in my book. Very sloppy

[@denaboersma6983]

Simply the best series on KZbin

[@rogerk2049]

My opinion only. Seismic activity possibilities, pour in place is better than a block foundation.

[@timlecount8690]

Avid EC fan, love this channel! Scott and Nate I know you are incredibly busy with this project, so I’ll throw this question out for anyone: I was curious why the hold-downs appear to be mild steel? When I built my home here in Alaska we had to use galvanized hold-downs. Unlike the rebar, it does contact both pressure-treated lumber and air. And perhaps they are galvanized and just looked non in the video. remember to take days off here and there guys! Makes every other day so much more productive:)

[@chuckmiller5763]

I used a different brand of h 2.5 clips, the plans said Simpson or equal, the inspector wanted documentation they were equal to Simpson. Never used an off brand of framing hardware again!

[@jesuszavala-neri637]

Am I First?

[@2point2]

No. :)

[@essentialcraftsman]

you sure are!

[@jacobpoucher]

You can't even type 3 words without editing your comment? Wow.

[@mattk6101]

@@jacobpoucher at least they went back to edit it right. Effort was made.

[@neilsiebenthal8696]

@@jacobpoucher you can't say something nice? Wow

[@huckfinn4260]

I wish you would have had this video posted before I had my basement poured. I went hunting the day the walls were poured and left the installation of the j-bolts up to the concrete contractor with big regrets later.

[@steveg5576]

Lot of lippage on those block, wonder why ?

[@trunkshvac3339]

So many of the points made are unspoken or "automatic"for a good builder. As an onlooker it seems overwhelming the volume of factors that go into decision making in a building project. This complexity is one of the reasons for the skills gap and the high labor rate in USA today. Of course this is all my opinion and nothing else, but it takes a lot to do well in a particular field. Really appreciate all that EC communicates and how well they do so. Thanks much

[@MikeBramm]

I was thinking the same thing. It boggles the mind how anyone could keep track of all this stuff. I wonder if the architect draws the house, then the foundation to hold it, then adds the hold-downs to join the two, making sure that they are located in stud-cavities. Kind of makes sense if you work somewhat backwards that way. In the end, all their training and decision making is well worth the money spent.

[@chrisfreemesser5707]

@@MikeBramm I have little doubt that whatever design software the architect uses when laying out the house automates a lot of the process (like automatically locating the hold-downs, stud locations, etc.)

[@ELIRAXPRT]

I didn't realize you were grouting the entire wall solid. Just curious, how can this be more cost effective than pouring a wall?

[@edwardsisson3580]

Mono pour. It's the only way.

[@mtvjackass74]

hold downs I use on sheer walls, for bottom plates I use titan screws.

[@HeadlineNews]

Always handy to throw some painters tape over the threads before you pour, to avoid hardened mud in your hold-down threads. Can save a lot of headache. I've done all sorts of Simpson hold-down systems. In low-rise construction, the seismic hold down plans are crazy through.

[@jconcrete0833]

Try foil. Quicker and easier

[@billypilgrim7838]

depends on where you live

[@jordanbethmay22]

The plans show the job site address 😳

[@rockrapdude]

I really like those sun shade hats you wear!

[@user-oc6qs1po3j]

on the coast of Mississippi they want a 5/8 bolt every 18 inches. its crazy. we will not even get into nail pattern of sheeting. ok it 4 inches on ends 6 inch in field. so on end of sheet its 12 nails so 24 nails in 4 foot area wonder what that will do to raffter lol an. this is no joke we sheeted on a Friday I wanted to felt it in cus was going to rain on weekend I called inspector asked if I could felt. he said sure if I sign a affidavit that its nailed to code no joke I had to sign it

[@dylanmounsey7515]

Lmfao wtf an affidavit

[@dcrog69]

A lot of times if we have a situation like that the inspector will have us take pictures and send them to him.

[@user-oc6qs1po3j]

I did take pics too always (cya) he knows I'm old school an over build anyways but they got to (cya) also.

[@user-oc6qs1po3j]

ok lets try this. afro David. ya there we go its surely is right now

[@billypilgrim7838]

more hurricanes equal more codes

[@ILikeWafflz]

7:24-7:38 The obsessive side of me was really annoyed that he was not occasionally shaking the can.

[@starcarrier1874]

I'm convinced there is no programming on my overpriced cable service as good as watching an Essential Craftsman, or old Larry Haun video. May sound silly, but it's makes me proud to have guys like this building in our country.

[@onlinetuna]

You just get it! As an engineer it's frustrating when someone (architect, contractor etc) assumes anyone can be as accurate as you need to be (on drawings) with items like these hold downs. Most of the minute layout of these needs to be done on site. No blame (when it's not required) just getting on with the job as required and understanding every disciplines limitations. You'd be a dream to work with.

[@jtslmn720]

two videos in two days!?! what is this magic!

[@casper7784]

This man has the IQ to run a Fortune 500 company! You are lucky 🍀 if he built a home for you, because you know it will be done right! Love ❤️ your videos!

[@johnsrabe]

The other important thing that tie downs accomplish when you’re building a house like this … is that they build suspense for the grout pour! Pour the grout! Pour the grout!

[@zitobin1]

Just a quick question, hope you can answer. Instead of laying tie down threaded set anchors in the grout, can you install them later on with chemical fix, drilled through the sole plate? Only asking as it may be easier set at a later date in the build. Thanks

[@Andrew_2040]

Epoxy installed anchors have significant limitations imposed on them by code agencies (ACI, MSJC & ICC-ES). I don't think any manufacturers currently have any epoxy products approved for tension applications in tops of CMU walls. The side distance is often just too small. You get side-face blow-out failures at too low tension loads for them to be practical in most cases. Sometimes epoxy can be a viable 'fix' if a cast-in-place anchor was mis-located, but generally only if the tension demand on the holdown was already very low.

[@zitobin1]

@@Andrew_2040 Thanks for your reply. I appreciate the shared knowledge.

[@LETSGOBRANDON13]

Your attention to detail is incredible. You miss nothing. I would love to build with you.

[@TreeTechLLC]

Im in Oregon and would love to meet you. ..... I feel I could be alot like you in 20yrs. Gold Beach OR,97444

[@KuMan1323]

Talk about hats? I guess they are not a fashion statement, and have also been chosen based ok years of experience and trying different types of hats. Love to hear about silly stuff like that!

[@psidvicious]

Function following form. 🤜🤛

[@joycemiller4716]

You are skilled love from England been in the trade for 53 years

[@antpilig6256]

It could cost you time and money.. and a few more gray hairs... I can tell you are a great builder.... Very good 👍 information.........JJ...

[@rogermathews3035]

you are right on about the hold down locations. As a framer, the contractors i work for prefer to have the masons set the hold downs and j bolts during grout; and it never fails that on every house there's a j bolt in the middle of a doorway or hold downs under a window where they are useless; i have to spend hours cutting steel and drilling holes in concrete and epoxying new bolts in, and more than would be necessary if it had been done right to start with. Excellent content, thank you for your level of detail and precision. God Bless

[@billypilgrim7838]

roger mathews called passing the buck

[@dankeebler6171]

Perfect timing on this for my project, thank you!

[@filipefrade8396]

Block work turn out to be adequate, but man, it’s not pretty. My Dad, a retired mason would cringe if I showed him this. But again, you were aiming for 1/8” clearance on the layout, but the block work looks like it’s 1/2” tolerance. This coming from a millennial. Lol. But great job over all.

[@yeager6882]

8:00 it is all massive overkill and scandal. You have developers, manufacturers, suppliers, and building code officials (i.e. human scum) all aligned to make massive amounts of money to build shading/crappy structures at the buyers expense and put real craftsmans and hardware stores out of business. All of which are trying to convenience us that great difficulty of building a house; like we haven't been building houses for thousands of years (many of which are still standing today). It's all been commercialized and institutionalized to prevent people from building their own homes (i.e. cutting people out of their own investments and livelihoods) and be controlled by developers, manufacturers, suppliers, and officials. Its about making inferior materials and charging (eventually) more money for them, which in turn creates more need for more complex technology, mediums, and materials to accommodate prior inferior material, thus in turn requiring more regulations, more permits, inspections, ad naseum, to build a vastly inferior home. Sure, it "looks" nice (to some people), but just look a little closer. You'll find plenty of crooked walls and doors, design errors, warped walls and floors, shoddy plumbing and electrical, and cheap fixtures. Wait 3-5 year and you already need to redo, remodel, fix, replace, etc., because of junk materials and zero craftsmanship. Is it any wonder why city official endorse tearing down old homes??? There is nothing wrong with them, they just don't stand to make any money on them!

[@sjensen6479]

Yup - the framer should always do the anchor bolts!!! Bar none! Just got done seismically retrofitting my original 1923 bungalow home via installing both the SST UFRP foundation plates between sill and old concrete foundation in the larger area of the house and drilling in 5/8"x10" wedge anchors through the sill down into the concrete walls in the back end! Will do a few shear panels over the cripple walls in the back end and will be done. Am actually using more stringent 2nd floor seismic codes on the first floor for overkill. Who knows, the extra might come in handier during the big one down here! Funny thing is that damn house was never attached to the foundation at all - guess that was common back here in 23'!

[@Mrcaffinebean]

So what’s the difference between the hold downs and j bolts? Don’t they serve the same purpose?

[@ADBBuild]

I'm a little confused by this too. Obviously J-bolts aren't as strong, but why not just add more hold downs and forgo the J-bolts?

[@ScrewThisGlueThat]

Google

[@scotty362100]

J-bolts hold the "sill plate". Hold downs extend through the floor to the vertical framing, or sometimes clear to the top plate, and sometimes even tie to the trusses. Depends on the amount of seismic bracing is required for the zone/code requirements. www.strongtie.com/wswkits_strongwallwoodshearwalls/wsw-rf_kit/p/strong-wall-wood-shearwall-first-story-wall-connection-kit

[@dylanmounsey7515]

scotty362100 damnnn

[@Mrcaffinebean]

scotty362100 thanks for that, makes sense now!

[@robertfallows1054]

Following this series diligently. However I may have missed why you are using blocks rather than forms and pouring the wall (if that’s the right term). Is it because of the look of the exposed block? Just wondering. Great videos

[@danstiurca7963]

Some of the shots of the blocks being so far out of line hurt my eyeballs. ... especially after this guy spent SO much time making sure the concrete pour is perfect. I doubt it's just because of shadows. The blocks are crooked.

[@wmichaelbooth]

I'm a bit confused as to what is about to happen with the framing. Aren't the hold downs below the subfloor? I don't see how they're sticking up high enough, at least from what we see in the video, to interfere with the framing in a wall. Granted, it's been ten years or so since I framed a house, so it's likely some things have changed, and of course I'm in Tennessee where we aren't often subject to particularly high winds or earthquakes or even much snow, so things are probably done differently.

[@randalldavis7025]

Intwrsting how different Oregon is from Utah. We pour our stem wall in concrete and the hold downs are always in place by the foundation wall guy. 30"oc.... no matter what. And we just have to deal with it when framing.

[@noc8076]

Using something like a Titen HD screw anchor lets you place the fasteners when putting up the walls. Drilling holes in concrete is quick with a rotary hammer.

[@billypilgrim7838]

NoC and inferior

[@Coder-zx4nb]

I don't understand. Why are hold downs so sensitive to the correlation of openings? People can change openings at will in the future without having to rework hold downs... This seems like an unfair double standard b/t new and old construction and makes me question the validity of this rule.

[@marlboromatt5656]

30 year mason and I can say that is some very rough block work even borderline sloppy. However the structural integrity is absolutely fine and it won’t matter but it’s just not the way we do things around here.

[@bobbg9041]

You use these in earthquake zones, seriously these should be national code, we would have less earthquake, flood, mudslide, tornado, hurricane and high wind damage and the connection should be from sub ground to roof on all walls. Yes it will drive up the cost of a home at first but it will also lower property damage and lower insurance rates. Tornado damage is caused by blowing off a roof, then the walls give it if you keep that structure solid it's not going to fail. The other point is windows and doors garage doors cheap metal doors with very little structure support.

[@mrshoeguy2477]

So you have to think about this when you're planning the vents.

[@MarkLK22]

The Essential Craftsman is sooooo gooooood!

[@josephdestaubin7426]

"When the mud shows up the time for lay out as past," Quote of the day, well said sir.

[@sblack48]

Those are goofy sun hats 😜 good video though

[@axesandalcohol3776]

Complicated overkill is an understatement, and at the same time well done

[@jumboslice1514]

Maybe it’s my ocd but whether or not blocks will be above ground or below they’re going to be laid flush and smooth. As a buyer I’d demand that even if it costs ten times more.

[@wildmanofthewynooch7028]

The only thing I hate about this video is it uploaded while I was fishing lol 😝

[@billypilgrim7838]

end out or center out blocks should be layed around inbeds if necessary so a layout is needed.put a 4ft crick level on the line side of wall to see how bad It is. laser level the corners and center where a twig should have been set.all block are not the same size.finish block used in schools hospitals are not typically used in foundations,they cost more.workers that do it all generally don't do it all excellently.

[@dylanmounsey7515]

Reallly picking up the pace with the upload schedule! I like! There can only be one thing next from here 🔨📐

[@badlandskid]

Dylan Mounsey grouting? underground plumbing? Back fill? Slabs?

[@dylanmounsey7515]

badlandskid ah nobody cares about the little details of finalizing the foundation. We’re all here for the framing 😎

[@dylanmounsey7515]

badlandskid the slabs are ready though

[@badlandskid]

Dylan Mounsey you are jumping the gun stix. 🤔

[@dylanmounsey7515]

badlandskid ah cmon lol

[@charleshart5563]

Is he hiring? ☺

[@neilsiebenthal8696]

Wooohhoooo! Only 24 minutes late. I get so excited to see a new video for this project.

[@joshuapater1985]

Would it be more efficient to lay out plates first? Seems a better way to ensure you don't run into a stud. If you could keep plates dry and straight until you need them.

[@williambutler3695]

So the wet set bolts are for the sill plates. The templated bolts will be fastened to vertical framing? Do they get attached to joists or do you run your king studs down to the sill?

[@calisurfduuuddee8183]

That's going to be one awesome "crawl space"

[@lint2023]

Yes. My experience with crawl spaces in the south were definitely "crawl".

[@wyattjones5086]

It looks like the back wall of the house has vents on the same level as smooth blocks. Wouldn’t this mean either the vents will be below grade or the smooth blocks will be above grade? Both of which I thought should be avoided

[@michaelperry1370]

i love this channel and love the videos but this is some rough block work. putting two 12s in the wall means layout is off. dont film in front of the mistake lol

[@Brainojack]

The content on this channel is insane. The production is awesome, the topics are interesting, and the delivery makes me feel like I could do it. Do audio books already

[@hamiltonqkarl]

I love Southern Oregon! I graduated from SOU

[@bob_frazier]

The great State of Jefferson is only 5 minutes in any direction from Ashland!

[@agripp36]

Seems like hold downs and anchor bolts would serve the same purpose. What am I missing?

[@peterfixit7221]

you call it grouting the wall we call it core fill or in fill