Estee Lauder Legacy Collection by Frederic Malle perfume reviews Persolaise Love At First Scent 431

[@herb9838]

What an absolutely wonderful thing to do, and so very different from the tactics of other houses (and wonderful to see you having such visible fun)! It seems remarkably brave, wresting the claim of "reformulation" away from the cloistered purists and owning it within the brand itself. I think it's what we all really want to see - not a blind unwillingness to reformulate (or admit reformulation) but a very obvious and transparent statement of respect for the past and awareness of the present. I hope it makes other vintage fragrance lovers (like myself) feel as seen as it makes me feel. I'll probably be poaching Azuree Legacy after my next pay day!

[@Persolaise]

Yes, I'm inclined to agree with you. I'd say sniff Azuree before you buy it.

[@elowyn9664]

To me the face of White Linen and the other Lauder perfumes are synonymous with the face of Karen Ann Graham. She was the face of Lauder in the 70's and 80's. Absolutely ravishing! She would fit them all, always radiating striking beauty and pure class.

[@Persolaise]

They did have some beautiful ad campaigns, didn't they? Thanks for watching.

[@lionhearted99]

Mr. P, you mention in the video wanting to be able to wear Azuree, but finding it a bit broad-shouldered. I’m testing out the 2019 reformulation of Cabochard EDT, produced by the Lalique Group. It’s not Azuree, but it might scratch that itch, and it’s only about $20 from discounters. Incredible value for money, I don’t know how they do it. The EDP is also great, but a bit difficult to wear in the same ways that Azuree is. The EDT is softer.

[@Persolaise]

Wonderful -- thanks very much for the tip.

[@AngelaFlener-e5l]

All the knowledge you share on your channel is very appreciated by most of us!! 😊

[@Persolaise]

That's very kind. All the knowledge I gain from all of you is very precious to me as well.

[@a2zin125]

I was so excited to hear you were doing a review of this collection, so curious. Heading over to smell them all again and make my own comparison, right after watching your top 10 V day video. It's going to be a day of sheer nostalgia for bygone days!!!! 🙏

[@Persolaise]

Sounds like fun! Thanks for watching.

[@lionhearted99]

Thank you for sharing the interview with Malle on your Substack. He is a treasure, and I wonder if we’ll have anyone to fill his shoes when he’s gone. Was he asked if Sophia Grojsman has smelled the legacy version of White Linen? I hope she’s in good health. It’s great to see a brand trying to restore their classic fragrances to their former glory. If only Coty would do the same for the likes of Chypre and L’Origan!

[@Persolaise]

No, nobody asked him about Grojsman. I asked if I could have some time with him alone, but apparently his schedule wouldn't allow it.

[@elowyn9664]

I agree so much about your review of the currents, every word, it's all so perfectly expressed. What a tonic! The legacy collection is a "read about" to me, so your opinion is very appreciated. "Private Collection Jasmine White Moss" created by Aerin Lauder was absolutely fantastic. Bright as the light that lingers. A green diamond of a Galadriel perfume, really. If you can get one, you won't regret. I love Cinnabar. It was a masterpiece, which unfortunately became a bit overshadowed by Opium. But to me the true wonder was the original Aliage of 1978. Besides Nahema, no perfume has made me recieve so much complements as Aliage. Men absolutely adored it. None of the reformulations have captured its alluring beauty and magnificence. You mentioned an interview about Aliage, where can I find it? Finally, how cool you mentioned Coty's "Emeraude". I read it was madame Guerlain's favourite perfume, which made Guerlain create 'Shalimar'.

[@Persolaise]

I very strongly suspect Malle must be working on Aliage. Thank you so much for watching.

[@lynnleglaire4819]

I’m quite eager to try these. The 1969 version of Azzuree is one of my favorites. Price is pretty consistent with other FM releases but for those accustomed to spending $100.00 or for their favorite Estée Lauder perfume, there may be a bit of price tag shock. The Legacy Collection may have to after a different buyer pool. Frederic Malle knows better than I, but I think Youth Dew would benefit from a face-lift. I wear it occasionally , and it gets me negative comments…people find it weird…out of place …and people have the guts to let me know. How you feel about wearing Azzuree is how I feel about wearing certain colors…colors I love even, I find oppressive even though I don’t see myself in them…I’m not looking at myself in the mirror. Going to find your substack interview. Not a bad trend at all…I just wonder who the new buyers are; I imagine those commenting on my Youth Dew may be up for “gentrified“ perfumes!

[@LiaAndrews]

I wore Pleasures and Beyond Paradise when they first came out and will always have a fondness for them. Current formulations are not the same. Would love to try a more expensive reformulation. Thank you for another wonderful review with great historical context and artistic insight. ❤

[@Persolaise]

Many, many thanks for watching.

[@emmagutierrez1408]

I'm very curious to smell these Legacy perfumes. You make it sound like it's a great achievement when you mention their brilliancy. Well done, Malle and friends!

[@Persolaise]

I would say they're all well worth trying, even if they may not all be worth buying. I hope to share more thoughts on this on Persolaise.com soon.

[@tom_k_d]

Yes please, I also want my old 'Dune for Men' back!!! The reformulation of the reformulation doesn't cut i any more...

[@Persolaise]

Oh dear. I haven't smelt the current version.

[@jcgillies]

Thoroughly enjoyed this episode. I was able to get some samples at H Beauty this morning so could smell along with you. I only have Private Collection and Beyond Paradise (now that surely would have been an interesting Legacy) so couldn’t compare the other ‘currents’, but I’m happy to say I really like them all. Today Azuree is my winner but alas the price is too costly!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for taking the time to write this. The price is certainly prohibitive.

[@maisali3152]

Being a big fan of FM, i have been curious about this collection. I never owned any of the current versions, but some of these sound so interesting and sublime. It's a shame about the price point. I feel those higher end collections from all those houses are trying to be in a similar price point. Thank you for a lovely video

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for watching.

[@klaas020]

Thank you so much for these reviews! And for taking enough time to do these fragrances justice and to do the side by side. Super interesting!! I've LOVED Lauder fragrances is the past. Lauder, to me, was the only company that rivaled Guerlain. Though their signatures are quite different, of course. Azurée, Private Collection, White Linnen and Youth Dew were my favorites, together with Aramis and Lauder for Men. I'm very excited about this collection and I saw they do sample sets. I for sure want to smell these. And gosh......Guerlain Héritage.......I'd mortgage my house to get bottles of those! It sounds like Frederic Malle has been kinder to Estee Lauder than Estee Lauder has been to Frederic Malle......

[@veuilletrebecca5070]

I see that you are an Estée Lauder fan like me so don’t get your expectations too high. The Legacy versions definitely smell better on paper but don’t perform well on skin. Yesterday, I wore 2 vintage PC versions and the Legacy one. The latter is a green perfume paired with white musk. There’s a heavy note of tarragon but I can’t smell much about what made the original so great : floral heart, powdery notes, great sillage and exquisite bottom notes that probably used the now forbidden ketone musk.

[@klaas020]

Thank you for sharing your thoughts on these perfumes. I don't mind if performance is so so, even with expensive perfumes. I am a huge fan of the Hermessences collection bij JC Ellena and God knows thats very little longevity for our hard earned coins...... I agree with you that Private Collection was just so rich and glorious and had such projection!! You could smell it a mile away, and I mean that in the best sense of the expression ;-)

[@Persolaise]

Many thanks for this. I'll be very curious to learn what you make of the Legacy range.

[@VirginieNL]

I don't want you to talk less!!! you are the only one perfume reviewer, where I learn a lot, wouldn't want to have any less information. You widen my understanding of perfume history, scents and brands. Love it!! never shut up :-) !!!!! I want beyond paradise in this heritage version. I love it and you barely find it anymore, do you think it was discontinued?? hugs from the Netherlands!

[@Persolaise]

I really appreciate this, thank you. Yes, I fear Beyond Paradise has finally vanished.

[@VirginieNL]

@@Persolaise Save me by Xerjoff is really similar, so that could then be a fall back solution.

[@yogo80]

Vintage Estee is INCREDIBLE and just the fact that you say the “current”one smells “angry” I know its not true to its original idea at least. Vintage Estee is so angelic… so Malle’s comparison to L’air du temps makes sense.

[@Persolaise]

Interesting. I guess it hasn't been served well by the passage of time.

[@veuilletrebecca5070]

So far, I have only tried 2, because Private Collection and White Linen in their whatever vintage versions I can find today on eBay are still 2 of my favorite perfumes. Due to certain packaging, I can tell when they’re from. Of course, and you mentioned it, besides the packaging is the problem of how they were stocked. But let’s be honest, even if White Linen’s aldehydes may be a little « cooked », the heart and bottom are still beautiful. Needless to say I have been a huge fan of Estée Lauder till the 80’s , I was a teenager then and I know the classics very well. My late grandmother wore Beautiful, my mother still wears Knowing. I wore them all, from Youth Dew to Knowing and among the newer ones, I adore Tuberose Gardenia. That being said, I always expect a lot from Estée Lauder and of course Frederic Malle, I wear Carnal Flower and Synthetic Nature. So, to call them legacy is a mistake and seems to me like a bad joke. I vaguely see Private Collection and White Linen there but without the richness, complexity and longevity of either. I tried them on my skin, it’s probably different on a smelling strip and couldn’t smell much after a few hours. They stay close to the skin, no sillage, no projection. I could smell a heavy note of tarragon among the green notes of PC then a very bland background. In White Linen, the freshness, the crispness are gone. I sure could smell the rose oxyde but somewhat heavy and burnt !!! Today, I will try 2 more, again on my skin. It’s been a very disappointing even painful experience for me so far. I won’t be buying any of those 2. Instead I will stock up with vintage versions. If they had been new perfumes without all the marketing behind it, I might have been less disappointed. I personally think that Mrs Lauder must be rolling in her grave with this collection. An awful tribute. But what do I know about the world we live in ? I just sprayed them all on paper. PC and WL are better on paper. Estée Legacy feels so dated, very L’air du temps. The others smell okay but nothing glorious like their vintage versions. Still very disappointed.

[@Persolaise]

It's useful to read this, thank you. Your comment highlights how problematic this whole enterprise is.

[@lionhearted99]

Had a chance to sample these today. My goodness the legacy Azuree knocked me out. I am a huge admirer of Cabochard, but I can't pull it off. Something about the aldehydes leave a taste in my mouth. I find that Azuree is a bit softer and more approachable. And that cumin note tickles my brain in the best way. I love the way Roudnitska wields it in Femme de Rochas, and that facet of Azuree is somewhat reminiscent, albeit amped up and pulled in a greener direction. It would be my favorite of the bunch to wear as well.

[@Persolaise]

Yes, I think the Azuree is becoming my favourite too. Thanks very much for watching.

[@susannahwatt5853]

The Luxury collection - 9 fragrances. I actually picked up 4 of them at a really good price and do enjoy them. But they are a very different type of fragrance. Not molecular but light and clear - I’ve let mist of my older classics go as I just don’t seem to wear them in my warmer climate. I can’t let go of the two anomalies that were released in the 2000s - Amber Mystique and Wood Mystique.

[@Persolaise]

Ah yes, those two 'Arabian' scents. Another (failed?) experiment from EL.

[@L-Ondee]

The only Lauder I own is Youth Dew amd I love it being called the Mona Lisa. I understand what Mr Malle meant, but besides that analogy I could really see La Gioconda wearing Youth Dew!

[@Persolaise]

Yes, me too 😊

[@angelajuneholmes4933]

White Linen is the only one of the five which I know well and have worn and reminds me of holidays , i bought it from Duty free back in the day on a trip to Greece and it was so good in the heat . Never got on with knowing or Private collection and haven’t tried the other two .

[@Persolaise]

Well, I think White Linen is the one that’s least ‘necessary’ to buy in the Legacy version. Thanks for watching 😊

[@jura_rose]

The current line may smell more subdued and muted after years of reformulation, it becomes a mathematical/technical reformulation over time. A disconnect between the initial inspiration and spirit of the perfume and the perfumer reformulating. Smells the same/similar, but loses its spirit. Akin to Chinese whispers. Perhaps Malle noticed this and wanted to bring back the initial spirit of these perfumes. Basically, this dimension of care makes a difference, albeit a nuanced one that can be profound when you compare the two versions. I find it analogous with computer software, much of the software we use today is legacy software/code that has had years of modifications and it builds up. The system picks up bugs. Sometimes it's best to go back to the drawing board and start again. I think Malle is one of the best people out there to do this.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for the software analogy -- that's brilliant. And yes, I agree that this is a fascinating exercise.

[@lisaesposito7317]

Was curious. Thanks for the review!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for watching.

[@RuthMejiaRM]

Great video I am looking for Malle interview on your website and was unable to locate can you please direct me to it ? Thanks ❤

[@Persolaise]

Here’s a link: persolaise.com/2024/02/obey-what-the-fragrance-is-telling-you-frederic-malle-on-the-estee-lauder-legacy-collection.html

[@susannahwatt5853]

I smelt Estée alongside you. Thick, soft aldehydes with what I pickup as a plastic and cardboard facets? Odd. I let my Private Collection and Knowing go. PC wasn’t bad but Knowing was terrible

[@Persolaise]

Estee is the most problematic one of the five in many senses.

[@programeditor1119]

I bought the discovery set of samples so that I can compare them to my vintage versions. So far all I have compared is Estee, and the Legacy came off very poorly by comparison, but I was comparing it to my 15-year-old bottle, which I keep in the refrigerator, not the version that is currently for sale and will be phased out. That one, I'm told, is a very poor formulation compared with the one I have. The Malle version isn't terrible, but it's quite dull compared with the aldehydic powerhouse that I have in my vintage "Super Cologne Spray."

[@Persolaise]

Your comment highlights superbly how difficult it is to make comparisons in this situation. Thank you for writing.

[@illiona3289]

Exciting video sorry I missed the live 😊🎉

[@Persolaise]

Not to worry. Thanks for watching.

[@melipone]

Thanks for another great video and how exciting! Unfortunately I do not find how to order a sample set of the new Legacy collection on the German website. Only the US website seems to have it but they logically only ship to US. If anyone solves this mystery, please let me know!

[@Persolaise]

Oh, that's annoying for you. I hope the distribution widens soon.

[@Hannah_BananaStand]

Thoroughly enjoyed that little jab at Sephora 🤣

[@Persolaise]

Ha! Thanks for watching.

[@musicmaven3149]

Any fans of Tuscany per Donna? I wish that had been up for the legacy modernization. I wear it and enjoy it, though it does smell a bit dated.

[@Persolaise]

Oh gosh, I remember that one... but I don't remember the smell.

[@sharfalor4244]

The bottles are an improvement, (couldn't get much worse than the nasty plastic caps on the current version). However, it feels like an overpriced money grab attempt. I'll test them but I'm very unlikely to want them. Edit to add: 5x the price you can pick up the current versions online is just ridiculous considering Lauders buying power for cost of materials in relation to what Malle would have originally had.

[@Persolaise]

The price is certainly problematic. Many thanks for watching.

[@timwilcox9600]

I wonder what is the market for these? Rich old ladies of Belgravia? Given that you can buy a 60ml bottle of 'current' White Linen for £39.95 why would you want to pay £250 for a 'Legacy' bottle unless you were a lifelong (and probably possessed of a long life) fan who hankered after some memory of 'what it used to be'? I just can't see a younger demographic being interested in these. They'll still be outrageously priced when they make it to the discounters at 50% off.

[@Persolaise]

I think there will be enough people who'll buy these to justify their existence. I personally believe £250 is an insane amount to spend on a single bottle, but there are more and more people out there who won't think twice about spending that sort of money. As I wrote in response to someone else, the real problem at the moment is that the gap between the haves and the have nots is growing ever wider. Of course, I may turn out to be totally wrong. It'll be fascinating to see how the range fares.

[@melissaSbythenotes]

I loved beyond paradise…my signature scent2003-2005ish

[@Persolaise]

I thought it was a genius perfume.

[@rachelgrigg7189]

Omg the price!

[@Persolaise]

It is horrific.

[@Evernia6181]

Absolutely not at their current prices

[@jillbraun9395]

Is Aerin separate from Lauder?

[@Persolaise]

It is very much part of the overall group. Indeed, I believe that in the UK, Aerin scents are sold on the EL website. However, I think that sometimes they're marketed separately.

[@emercycrite]

The bottles are very Lauder but personally I find them very uninspiring and actually quite unattractive. Certainly doesn't look like GBP250 worth of bottle or juice.

[@Persolaise]

The bottles are certainly trying to be 'classical generic'. Thanks for watching.

[@emercycrite]

@@PersolaiseThat is certainly a very kind way of putting it! 😆

[@EyeByBrian]

Re: Youth Dew, there is the Tom Ford for Estée Lauder ‘refresh’ of YD from 2005, Youth Dew Amber Nude. Still available?

[@Persolaise]

I don't think it is.

[@urairakread1720]

Love pure white linin but that discontinued

[@Persolaise]

Yes, such a shame.

[@miladsky210]

Good evening from Muscat. Very excited for this one. Mr Malle already spoke about his admiration of Lauder perfumes.

[@ashleylala4293]

Does EL own his fragrance line? If so, he kind of has to say that... 😏

[@Persolaise]

Thank you.

[@Persolaise]

To give him his due, he was complimentary of EL long before he sold to them.

[@Slivings911]

I remember Estée had a whiff of alyssum, which has that honey/slightly spicy impression. Very grandmotherly in a lovely way. I liked it but my husband said it smelled like guest soap.

[@Persolaise]

I think in many ways Estee is the most problematic one of this quintet.

[@rachelgrigg7189]

You can pick up white linen for 30 quid. Wth would you spend 250 on this?

[@Persolaise]

Out of all 5, I think White Linen is the one that doesn't warrant the more expensive purchase.

[@dg6626]

Wish Beautiful was 8n this collection.

[@Persolaise]

So do I!

[@rebeccadippyegg]

Great review thanks - I must seek out PCL.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching.

[@travisr82]

Lauder for Men, gem of a scent under the radar

[@Persolaise]

I'd be curious to see what Malle would do with it.

[@travisr82]

@@Persolaiseany news on dries returning ?

[@sabrinasjourney]

Jasmine Moss wasn't bad

[@Persolaise]

I don't remember that one very well.

[@sachetdemel]

Vukasin, whoever you are, I like you. Find me, love. 🙋🏻‍♀️

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching.

[@vukasinstanisavljevic4387]

My, my, I am pleased my comments found you well. Kind regards and thank you from Serbia. And as always, thank you Mr. P.

[@dimitrijenestorov]

Well, the series are called "Love at first scent". So, nothing out of the ordinary here...

[@sachetdemel]

😂😂😂

[@L-Ondee]

White Linen is Faye Dunaway!!!

[@Persolaise]

Ah, yes! Excellent.

[@rachelgrigg7189]

No one is going to pay that

[@Persolaise]

Well, that's just it: I think plenty of people will. The truth is that the gap between those who can and those who can't is growing wider and wider. That's the real problem, in my view.

[@veuilletrebecca5070]

@@Persolaiseyou’re right of the second part of your comment but I think the Legacy perfumes are still too classy. Also they don’t perform very well on skin. I think people now prefer the likes of Baccarat Rouge.

[@ashleylala4293]

I have a hard time taking EL seriously as a luxury brand. No matter how high they jack up their prices, it just seems like an elderly has-been brand whose best days are behind it.

[@ashleylala4293]

I should note that they do have one exception for me. Their Tuberose Gardenia is perfection for lovers of realistic florals.

[@Persolaise]

Yes, their image was extremely strong until the 80s, but since then, it doesn't seem to have struck a chord with its audience. Mind you, that's just in terms of its perfume. Apparently its skin care and make-up continue to do very well.

[@veuilletrebecca5070]

As a child and teenager, I loved their ads with Karen Graham. And wore White Linen back then. I still wear it in the summer. It’s still my favorite aldehydic floral.