etrailer | CE Smith Boat Guide Ons with LED Lights Review

[@scottm5342]

Very nicely done. It seems there would be a temptation to run the wires inside the hole of the lance (on the outside) and then run the wires straight through the rest of the tube, but that could cause chafing issues.

[@striveforselflessness3220]

Two years late but well done on the video. Thanks

[@virgilcomputersinc.9549]

Great Video... Saved Me A Lot Of Time..... Thanks Again

[@etrailer]

We are happy to have been of help! If you need anything else feel free to reach out to our team. www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27760.html

[@WALLY4178]

good job!

[@cummins0125001]

I’d run the wires through the guide poles. Correctly looming them and securing them will prevent any damage to the coating of the wires.

[@FAKE-NAME]

If you decide to run out the hole in front or back not entire way thou the edges are very sharp and will damage the wire ...found out the hard way

[@smiley3303]

I was thinking that when watching. That is the only way I would do them too.

[@DGJunkie1]

@@FAKE-NAME That's what a rubber grommet is for.

[@rborroto]

Are the ubolts and nuts/washers stainless steel? I would be using this in salt water and galvanized fasteners always rust, no matter what.

[@Whymebitc]

Great job.

[@Hutchps]

Not sure I’ll hear back but I followed this great video to a ‘T’ but my lights do not work??!! I tested lights individually on a battery before hooking up and they both work. My Shorlamder trailer is 2007 with lED lights do not sure if direction of current matters? Galvanized aluminum trailer. Is there a way to cheat the ground... splicing to white or back to brown?

[@lvsaltwater]

I was going to Lowe's to buy the stuff to DYI some boat guides ,, went to a Marine store first to see if they offered a kit of some kind ,, they did ,, the brand in this video ,, I bought the 60 inch kit ,, best money I have spent on my boat yet :) the down side ,, I wanted the black guides ,, they had them but not in the lighted version ,, bought them anyway ,, now I will have to see if I can rig some lights to the top of the guides ,,

[@etrailer]

Check out the following kit to see if it will work for your kit. www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27656A.html

[@xlunaticmoon]

Great video quick question what did you set your torque wrench to? The directions do not say. I set mine to 25 ft lbs just want to verify that’s correct. Also I ran my wires through the metal post and popped them out where the rivets are for the slip on post on the inside. I then electrical tapped the wires where they came out of the metal to avoid it possibly grounding out by cutting into the rubber wire sleeve.

[@etrailer]

When tightening the u-bolts, you just want to make sure they are tight enough so that the post does not wiggle but not so tight that you crush the square tubing. www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27760.html

[@StealthShadowFox]

how do i find that kit on your website?

[@inkmonkey09]

I couldn’t get the pvc posts to “slip” over the uprights - they would bind up 1/3 of the way down and then were really hard to take off. I emailed the company - no response. Finally, I just took a hand-held grinder and ground down the corners of the uprights all the way down to bottom. Then the posts “slipped” onto the uprights.

[@josepeixoto3384]

R U S T !!

[@josepeixoto3715]

that bend weakened the post a bit,iguess it has to be that way?

[@etrailer]

The post is not designed to be used as a bumper to trailer a boat. They are designed to be guide posts. www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27760.html

[@lsl1512]

Do these guide on leds signal when I turn my turn signals on my vehicle?

[@etrailer]

They don't. They activate with the trailer's running lamps. www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27760.html

[@sailork3506]

Adding lights to the top of the supports is nearly useless IMO. You should disconnect lights when backing into the water to save the lights. While running, normal trailer lights are sufficient. I think the lights are the lure that catches the fisherman.

[@TheRoostersGarage]

By just using a non-marine ground ring terminal, it's going to corrode in a few years and you'll lose lights. Not to mention the wire isn't marine grade wire so having the bare copper exposed on the ground, it might make it a year in salt before it's so green it's lost connection.

[@etrailer]

These are good things to keep in mind. We have not heard of people having issues with this. It depends on where your boat trailer is stored and if it is exposed to the elements.

[@TheRoostersGarage]

@@etrailer Well all my trailers sit outside year round. As I rewire them I'm going 100% marine grade connectors even for my equipment trailers

[@Vintabilly]

@@etrailer Womp Womp. You missed the queue, brothers. @rooster is right, there are tens of thousands of miles of coast line compared to freshwater applications. Your tutorial is useless for an entire swath of boaters. Atlantic ocean will rot a copper exposed connection in a single season.

[@juliopadilla9315]

Can the guides be up while driving on the road

[@etrailer]

Yes, they will do just fine when heading down the road. You just want to be sure they do not exceed past the widest point of your trailer. www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27760.html

[@alanshaw4655]

@@etrailer ummm..wrong !!. nothing wrong with the post sticking out past the trailer ?..it's the width of the lane you must follow !. in other words, most states have a 8'-6'' measurement, if you go over this ?, then you need a wide load permit.

[@johnsmith-sw7ii]

Why not run the wires down inside the metal tube??? Better protected AND the PVC can't rub on the wires!!!

[@etrailer]

There's no reason why you can't do that. You'll just need to use some fish tape to run the wires all the way through the supports. www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27760.html

[@josepeixoto3384]

expired tag,lol