EVE 280Ah 3.2V LiFePO4 Prismatic Batteries, Review and Testing

Today we'll be taking a look at the EVE 280Ah LiFePO4 prismatic batteries purchased from Dongguan Lightning New Energy Technology (Alibaba). I ordered 4 batteries to create one big 12V battery. This is the first time I'm diving in to these style batteries and still have a lot to learn. Will they stand up to the rated capacity? Watch and see!
WARNING: Lithium batteries are dangerous and can result in fire! This video is NOT intended to be instructional or a "how-to" lesson. I am not a professional. Do not attempt anything you see here without first contacting a certified and/or licensed professional.
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[@DCGULL01]

First, THANK YOU VERY MUCH for taking the time, spending the money & doing all of the 'heavy lifting' of testing these cells (that I was sooo excited about!) I'm more than a little disappointed that the cells varied by so much? Clearly, 2 cells came from a single batch, and the other (2) came from another. They varied enough that I wondered if 2 of the cells were from say 'version A' and the other 2 came from a more recent & improved lot. That being said: * I probably would've used a lower gauge wire to reduce losses (say 6 AWG or even a 4 AWG)? * I may've tried to do a .2C test, but- really I'm being a nitpicker, and, the wiring mentioned above would've been less of an issue, but... * I thought each cell was limited to 2.5v, so I was surprised to see 2.2v as the bottom? Asking? * Would it have helped to parallel the cells for a day or so- for the BMS & preventing the need for a bottom balance? * Do you think it might've performed slightly better (275 -280AH) if you had bottom balanced? Great test, great review & THANK YOU 1,000 times!!! I genuinely appreciate your efforts. Noted: another gentleman purchased 16 cells for a garage solar power project and he only was able to get @ 250AH or so. Perhaps they are slightly less powerful and they DO have limitations (none that will disturb me using them..) But, they still have a TON of stored power & the chemistry lasts for so many cycles!!! Dave

[@hubertnnn]

Its the role of the BMS to handle balancing for you. Having the cells connected to a bms for a day should give you the same result as connecting them parallel - they should get balanced. And a BMS is safer since it wil reduce/regulate the balancing current.

[@LithiumSolar]

* Thanks!! :) * The read/black cables coming off the battery were 4 AWG. The black cable from the shunt to the inverter was 1/0 AWG as I already had a piece with ring terminals crimped on. * One thing I find interesting about the prismatic LiFePO4 batteries I've looked at is the capacity is usually given at a 1C discharge. I find that hard to believe, but I haven't tried a 1C test to see what happens. With this in mind, I think a 0.28C test is close enough to 0.2C commonly used by NMC chemistries. Lower amps may have resulted in another Ah or two, not sure. * The spec sheet for these batteries gave 2.5V as the low cutoff. The BMS was set for 2.2V. I can't change it for this particular BMS and wanted to leave it go to see what would happen (if the BMS would shut off). The voltage drop at that point in the discharge curve is so steep that the extra between 2.228V and 2.50V didn't make much of a difference. * Yes! I do think paralleling beforehand would have helped. I will be testing this later this week to see if there is any difference. I will report back my findings. I don't think the iCharger balanced long enough even though I had it set to "slow balance".

[@DCGULL01]

@@LithiumSolar I hope that you understand that I'm NOT questioning you in a 'snarky' way, I'm really trying to learn more (and, I'm more of a NOOB!) while being 'clear' instead of loose. Thanks (again!!!) for buying & testing these- I so appreciate all of your efforts! I was planning on using (2) Bluetooth programmable BMS' recommended by Will Prowse & paralleling them on arrival, discharging to a lower state of charge, balancing- charge & do a .2C rate test. .28C is so darn close- it thought it was higher (my bad!) Either way, 271AH is purdy darn close & still an exceptional value. I DO wish you had received 'matched' cells by lot as well as charge profile & resistance but at that price- it may be too much to ask! Hahaha

[@DCGULL01]

@@hubertnnn I think that Daly BMS' only charge at the very top of the charge cycle, and, often needs several charge cycles to balance the cells. When installed, the cell voltage variance was too large for it to even work. The resistors are pretty small on most BMS' that I've ever seen. With such a flat discharge curve, the amount of voltage in each cell can be pretty large -especially in 280AH prismatic cells!

[@LithiumSolar]

@@DCGULL01 being snarky didn't even cross my mind... Out of all the comments, yours was the one I pinned lol. I am not an expert and am here to learn too. One reason I make these videos is I love reading through the comments, ideas, hearing what others are doing, etc. I do agree, 271Ah is still fantastic - I guess I just expected to see the full 280Ah after what I've been reading from others. I'll be ordering my next batch from Basen (seems to be who most are recommending) and getting 16 at once. Hopefully those will be matched. I love the Daly BMS for small builds and testing, but I'll be using a Batrium on my final production setup :)

[@s.mendez7160]

Wow! a most excellent video. Great production. Lighting, audio quality, and your narration. Just easy to watch, and appreciate your thoroughness. Going to watch more of your channel. Thank you!

[@casketking]

Man, great video. Your whole presentation was straightforward and no fluff. Keep up that great work.

[@lckoolg622]

Your video shows the value of a testing setup and spend time on balancing and discharge testing new batteries. Thank you

[@tommybronze3451]

Dude, fantastic test ! Yes in the industry we're using automatic expensive equipment to cycle cells for test, but the test seriously boils down to what you have done - GREAT ! IF you are planing on using prismatic cells long term I would only suggest to provide a box that applies pressure to prevent cell swelling, but I think this is redundant since you seem to know what you are doing !

[@usurpinesusanti3149]

I love the way how you concetrate the right infos in your video and focus. Well done ! I wish every youtuber would do that. I am waiting for my cells coming from China in a few weeks and i gonna build myself a 24 200ah solar battery pack for my camping van. I am looking for how to test my cells the right way so i know what i got for my money.

[@daveduncan2748]

You got 97% of the rated capacity, and your breaker and negative cable were generating some heat. The 300 mV drop from the terminals to the shunt is also about 97% of the voltage, so the cells seem to be pretty close to 280Ah. And for that price, seems like you did well!

[@mcg6762]

The losses in cables, breaker etc do not affect Ah-measurement. The shunt measures the current going through the circuit and it does not matter where the energy is dissipated, whether in the actual load or elsewhere.

[@daveduncan2748]

@@mcg6762 Errm. No. I don't believe that is accurate. Any losses between the terminal and the shunt (which is where my comment clearly identified the 300mV loss) is dissipated as heat before it any measurment by the shunt. That 300mV X (the amps) equals power lost at any moment, and power lost over a period of time is lost energy. See the First Law of Thermodynamics--the Law of Conservation of Energy for more info.

[@mcg6762]

@@daveduncan2748 Ah is different from Wh. The shunt measures current. All current must go through the shunt, regardless of where the voltage is dropped.

[@The2000redrocket]

@@mcg6762 i think he is sating you would need a shunt at each separate hot device to catch what its individual loss is.

[@mcg6762]

@@The2000redrocket If you have more than one shunt in the same series circuit they would all measure the same current. Basic circuit theory. The current is the same everywhere for a straight series circuit.

[@offgridwanabe]

I've watched a few of these for the 280 ah and most get the 280 or close with all the wiring and such 271 seems close enough for me. You do great work thanks.

[@dantronics1682]

The bms cuts out at 2.28v so he didnt pull the max ah from the batteries

[@SandervV555]

Very comprehensive test , nice to follow with good explaining and commentary. Nice equipment also.

[@timyates807]

Another amazing video , detailed and clear . Thanks so much for your easy to follow vids . Love em ! Take care

[@bizim_eller]

You're good man, doing this test. Thanks for the time, effort and info👍👍

[@nateethington76]

Thanks for the video. At first, I thought it was going to turn out bad when they didn't quite match in terms of build. But the results aren't too bad. Definitely didn't scare me away from ordering some.

[@GordLamb]

Love your precise, detailed presentation style.

[@meganote]

Thanks for the review. I just ordered 4 280Ah cells from an eBay seller for about $170/cell, so not as good of a deal as yours... I’m just hoping they are matched, new cells, as they were advertised! This makes such a nice, compact, high capacity battery. Even at what I paid, it will be cheaper per usable amp hour than purchasing AGM batteries (considering 80% DOD for the LiFePO4 and 50% for the AGM). Thanks again for the review/capacity test!

[@BorgOvermind]

Thanks for the review. Such cells seem good and powerful, I even used them for welding directly. They have the or near the stated capacity. What we should research is their life-cycles. This is the only way to see if they are viable or not. You can find cells apparently with excellent specs that do even beyond the specs in initial tests but they quickly drop capacity after only a few full discharges. I've seen this in some cheap and apparently very good Li-Ion 26650s. I don't have the means to do an efficient cycle test on high capacity LiFePO4s. I doubt they get anywhere near the stated cycles.

[@DrifterInAVan]

Thanks so much for classroom technical data on these batteries. I currently have 2 200ah AGM batteries. They charge up great and fast (no complaints) I just have 70 (max) of only one battery for usage. I live full time in my van and after 1 year full time I’m ready 4 a change. I just can’t afford 2 Battleborn type lithium. Thanks 4 great post and channel. Look forward to more videos on this subject.

[@benssolarandbattery]

I've been debating selling my 16s NMC pack and dropping $10k or so on a massive bank of these. I don't like that they don't even have the rated capacity out of the box though. Thanks for digging into them!

[@K405X]

Find the good seller, based on reviews mostly... 16 batts should be around 1.5k!

[@henry8100]

@@domatic 15k vs 1.5k

[@dantronics1682]

I do believe the chap said the bms cuts out at 2.28V not 2.2v so how can you say the batteries are not at the rated capacity?

[@ryansnedigar4111]

Great video. Thanks for the specific information. Keep up the good work.

[@jtr82369]

I’m going to build this batt, you’re the 2nd vid I’ve seen about this & for the price, you can’t go wrong 👍👍

[@tariqalmutairi1403]

hey, two years later, are they good ? do you recommend that i buy ?

[@jtr82369]

@@tariqalmutairi1403 actually, rack batteries are so cheap now I’d buy them so I have a warranty & a professional looking installation. I saw 48v 100ah rack batteries for $1150 recently.

[@ProspectorTripp]

Pretty good for the cost.. still not as Advertised! Truth and honesty is the most important thing when selling a product! Thanks ✌️PT

[@marktheunitedstatescitezen185]

Great Job ! I’ve gotten 280Ah 3.2v Lithium Phosphate from AliExpress about 108.00 each and I asked if they were grade A or B and the seller wrote back Grade A being made as they were written ! I have not tested

[@MrBoatman46]

Good test. I wouldn’t be cut up about about 96.4% of the rated capacity since by your own admission there were heat losses (resistances) in your circuit that happen before the current shunt. Well done though and thanks for a good review.

[@davidgolden6068]

For real great info, thanks Ron Howard!

[@patrickburton6130]

Very informative, thanks and happy new year

[@whatthefunction9140]

Supplier is everything. Keep us posted

[@JB007Rules2]

This is great! Will Prowse also just posted a 280AH battery capacity test but his link to Alibaba was different and a tad more money ($443 VS $410).

[@raysmetzer3153]

That’s a small package for a lot of battery. 280 ah. Wow Nice video. Thanks

[@sotoshinakamotor7087]

With a software BMS, can check all data easy. Good video and beautiful inverter

[@michaeldoherty2289]

That is a lot of eneregy storage and charge cycles for the money! What I don't like is the 6mm lug screws and the few threads that actually thread into the aluminum lugs. I built a battery using 240 ah cells purchased directly from Shenzen RJ Energy. One of the lugs stripped out even though I am very careful when tightening, but I was able to tap a larger screw into it and salvage the cell. I built a custom insulated boz with a silicon pad heater in it so it stays warm in cold weather. I have used this battery in my RV for 2 years now and it has worked perfectly with 400 w of charging PV's on the roof. I have never run the battery out when boondocking for weeks on end in the summer and up to one week even in late October in NE Washingon. The 280 ah cells you have are about half the cost of the 240 ah's I bought in 2018. They are a great value if you are capable of building it yourself. I think the fragile lugs make it best for stationary installs like a remore solar cabin , and less desirable for vibration uses like an RV. I check my lugs all the time and so far so good, but I think its just weak for high vibration uses.

[@rabk5702]

Love ur stuff keep it coming merry Xmas 🥳👍

[@PardeepSingh-wt8xo]

excellent demonstration

[@WildcatsCMA]

Great Job. Thanks for the details!

[@TheBrewjo]

As an Australian, planning out batteries is a challenge. Throwing money at the problem, yeah I can get battle-born's. But that's AU $1300, not including shipping. Local suppliers appear to charge similar prices for what the US market would call the B-grade to Battle-born.

[@Foxfried]

Many users are buying from this resller called XUBA and specifcally asking for AMY as there rep. I bought 32 all same qr style code and tested to full 280 ah. Running a 16s2p setup on a 48V mpp solar LV5048

[@john_in_phoenix]

I bought from the same source (Amy at Xuba) and got pristine cells as well.

[@alharrison3255]

Amy is no longer with Xuba, she's now with Shenzhen Luyuan.

[@john_in_phoenix]

@@alharrison3255 You are correct, elsewhere in the comments here, I have linked to the new company she started with her husband. Good service, good prices, and she doesn't exaggerate (aka lie) to sell you a product. At the time I purchased my cells, she worked at Xuba, now she has her own company at szluyuan.en.alibaba.com/

[@alharrison3255]

@@john_in_phoenix I didn't read every post, so I missed yours.

[@john_in_phoenix]

@@alharrison3255 not a problem. I make no money from recommending her, I am just a satisfied customer.

[@aappiah1]

Great information,thank you for sharing

[@judeg.8101]

Learning a lot of good information thanks.

[@alanb76]

Nice test and clean setup. Clearly resistance losses don't affect amp hour testing, they become part of the load and only reduce watt hours measured. The accuracy of the amp-hour measurement (including shunt, shunt voltage measurement and time accumulation accuracy) would need to be verified to validate the overall amp hour accuracy. These cells could be within spec and the result error (-2.9%) within instrumental accuracy. Batrium mentions 1% typical accuracy for the shunt component alone and "typical" isn't a worst case guaranteed spec, plus this must be added to the inaccuracy of the measurement subsystem. Not a bad result.

[@AD6DMDennis]

Very helpful test, thanks!

[@patrickmclaughlin6013]

Maybe cycling them a few times will help improve the performance? even with what you got out of them still looks like a really good value Thanks for the video

[@marktheunitedstatescitezen185]

Very accurate ! Good job explaining !

[@rchapoteau]

At that price i would say close enough for the AH.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Agree!

[@RVMD95]

Yup!

[@Funkgun]

heck yeah

[@katokhaelan4881]

Wow, glad I found your channel. Thanks for the video

[@GaryOutdoorsLiving]

Thanks for the video. I'll be biking two of these for our rv. I'll upload a similar video when I'm doing it. Learning a lot about lifepo4.. Thanks.

[@jingdude]

Thanks for the video! I'm thinking about getting these. How do they do after a few cycles?

[@gonnagetya1433]

Not sure about your datasheet, but Off Grid Garage found that his 'manual' said to let the cells sit for an hour after charging before starting the test or something like that.

[@eksine]

yes I heard 30 mins, so 1 hour is probably more correct

[@N8FLY]

Nice video. Thanks for creating this.

[@darrenorange2982]

Can you run a charging test to see how well it balances without the balancer? Likely they should charge pretty evenly, mostly the BMS should not be needed?

[@jakecourtright1224]

Great video. getting ready to buy these cells. really great value now on Alibaba. $459 for 4 of these cells

[@yijjaj]

I love you ❤️. This is what I was looking for. Thank you thank you.

[@mexicanfarmer]

How can you see batrium info on a tablet i can figure it out how to do it?

[@grogginess]

Great video. Out of curiosity how long does the heater last before battery is too low. Thankyou

[@john_in_phoenix]

Per the spec sheet from Eve, two are 2019 manufacture, and two are 2020 manufacturing date. Lower volume places frequently have stock sitting on the shelf a while, all of mine from a different vendor were manufactured in the same batch in the second half of 2020. Depending on the state of charge, sitting on the shelf for extended periods of time can lower capacity and lifespan. I suspect what you received was just two older cells, and everything passed all the manufacturing tests at the time, rather than grade b cells. I am sure they are not matched cells, which is different from grade a cells. It is actually quite difficult and time consuming to match cells, since the most commonly used measurement device for doing so clearly states it is not accurate above 100 amp hour cells.

[@nielclydemaraon5356]

Thanks for sharing 👍 Can i ask some question sir, I have 3.2v 100ah connected in 4s, what should be the BMS rating (amps) I would use?

[@aspendell209]

I suspect you are losing at least 3-5% of the battery power from Cables, BMS and Circuit breaker. I always try to double the ampacity of any device that passes the full current to the output. So in your case you would need bigger cables that are designed to handle at least 160 amps, probably 2 ga to 0/0 ga for that run length at that voltage. The BMS should be 150-200 amps rated. And at least a 150 amp fast trip circuit breaker. All these together should reduce your losses to heat generation in the components by up to 50 watts. If you did a direct capacity test on the battery you would likely see just over rated capacity, with no hardware in between. Keep up the good work, and Merry Christmas :)

[@rallycorsa1600]

I have just purchased four cells this week through Aliexpress. Delivery 30 to 50 days :)

[@DIYjust]

What is the cell balancing performance(or ability) of this bms? Wouldn't it be necessary to install an equalizer(Active balance)?

[@ralph9987]

you do a gr8 job explaining things, thanks. the 3.65v might be in the specs as the max voltage, but it is not recommended as a voltage to cycle to at every charge cycle. at this voltage you wil severely reduce your overall lifespan of the battery. 3.5v is a better max voltage to use.

[@edbrackin]

Very professionally, thourghly done.

[@takakichi]

It was helpful. Thank you very much.

[@axellohse8426]

Thanks for this Video! I want to built such one in 24V for my Truck, wich BMS You are used?. I'm unshure about the dimension? 100A or more? What do you think?

[@lnxpro]

Awesome stuff! :) Thank YOU! :)

[@hubertcampo4556]

Hi Lithiumsolar. Great video. You tested and discharged the batterypack with a heater drawing some 900watts. How long took it discharge the batteries?

[@ReviewWithRAFIZ]

Very nice and informative video. Please carry on 👍👍

[@emmanuelgaviero5669]

I really Thank You for the video. It is so simple to understand! I am planning to install solar in my little MacGregor 26X sailboat, with lithium. I am a DIY guy, so I appreciate really your advice and links. I subcribed. Lovesssssssssss

[@dewayneavery5097]

Oh my god. U look just like my grandpa Smith. 40’s. When I was 5or6. I am now 83. I have less hair then u. He died of an enlarged heart. I am a 22 year survivor of 5 heart bypass. Just subscribed.

[@shinosg-wiz4619]

I've got a question. Wouldn't be better using M6 aluminium studs? Preserving the cell's threads.

[@JohnnYp1234]

any idea why you only for 271 ah ? do you think its based around the condition of the batteries or inaccuracies and loses through the equipment used or maybe a little all of the above?

[@FilAmGabe]

Question for you. I have heard that if it was stored for a while then it needs to be cycled a couple times to pull full capacity. Does this seem to be true?

[@john_in_phoenix]

These cells do seem to settle down to more consistent results after a couple of higher rate charge and discharge cycles, but as someone already explained, they also need to be cycled every 6 months when stored. The QR codes indicate that two of the cells were manufactured before December of 2019, and likely sat on a shelf without being cycled.

[@rhysbrennan90]

Would these be safe in the back of a ute or truck as they say in the states. Gets up to 35 celsius here and it would be hotter with just a taunue cover over the tray. With the right boxing would it be safe?

[@jamese498]

Great info thank you

[@huysworld701]

thank you so much, I am planning to build a DIY power box using these 4 of these 280AH cell. Learning from your last video, i will need 4x280ah battery cells, 150A BMS, MPPT Charger, 2000 Pure sine inverter... how many fuses or breaker do i need for safety measure and where is best to put these fuses? Will i also need some kind of relay circuit device? what is the recommend wire sizes?

[@lazal3m]

I'm planning to build the same setup to replace my sedan's lead acid battery. Would you say this is a good replacement? Regarding the wires, I can see that the BMS is using 7AWG. Is it possible to replace this with 4AWG or just leave it? For the positive pole, what wire gauge should I use?

[@lottemartinejrstad1969]

hello, can you build another pack that is identical with its own bms and the paralell the two batteries in a 4s2p config? or will the bms´s not handle that?

[@adi001fly]

Hi, can you please tell us icharger x6 settings for balancing these 280Ah batteries thank you

[@cenchloraadums3143]

Great test with lots of important details...this kind of videos are actually rare. I think these cells have been used for at least several hundred cycles. If they're within volumetric and gravimetric energy densities of LiFePO4 chemistry, that should be the reason for lower capacity. Even discharging at 280A (1C) they should give over 90% of rated capacity. QR codes with no battery capacity are suspicious. These cells last thousands of cycles so they're refurbished (blue protective film re-wrapped, QR code + top black plastic film reattached - no big deal) and resold as brandnew or grade B cells depending on their condition. Finally, wire losses would only matter if you measure the voltage at the load. If the volt terminals of wattmeter are connected to battery terminals it measures total energy, including that dissipates at wires. However, power loss at aluminum bus bars (if there's any) may still left uncounted.

[@john_in_phoenix]

Likely the two manufactured in 2019 sat on a shelf without being cycled every 6 months like the manufacturer recommends. I wouldn't suspect used cells, much more likely improper storage conditions. The cells will very quickly degrade if stored fully charged or fully discharged, and must be cycled every 6 months of storage. Recommend state of charge for storage is 20 to 50%.

[@gg-gn3re]

does having them connected in parallel automatically balance them? (assuming the voltage is near identical when you connect them so it doesn't blowup) nvm I see several studies that say they should be left in parallel a few days before building a battery

[@proteinman1981]

Excellent video thanks for the effort

[@RollinHomies]

So how long did the space heater actually run off the battery pack you made?

[@theprepperfrog167]

Thank you, sir.

[@james10739]

That alligator balance leads is a good idea I think I'm going to have to steal that

[@marioarmas9577]

Thank you, great info.

[@rickyroaster]

Sorry for I didn't catch how long the test was? would be good to know thanks,

[@sNEAKYnIGHTmUPPET]

I should add that when I got them, I hooked 18 of them in parallel and used my iCharger x8 to do a 1s charge to 3.65vdc. it took about 3-4 days, lol. it was awesome though.

[@eksine]

18? are you super crazy? you should have used 5 chargers to charge that many cells

[@jamescole6846]

You commented on the heat build up and forgive my answer I did not spend a lot of time on research but is probably lost amps due to this. Reducing the Amount of Power Lost as Heat in Wires On the previous page we saw that transmitting serious amounts of power down an electrical wire at 230 Volts would result in incredible amounts of heat being lost in the wire. What can be done to help? The power lost in an electrical wire is governed by the equation Power = Current squared x resistance. So to reduce the power loss, we just have to reduce either the current or the resistance. To reduce the resistance of a wire, we need to make it larger. There will be more metal to carry the current, so the resistance will be lower. Unfortunately, we would soon end up with an enormous wire, which would be hideously expensive. The better solution is to reduce the current. This has the advantage that if we can reduce the current by ten times, we will reduce the power loss by a hundred times! (Remember, power loss in wires is equal to current squared times resistance.) How do we reduce the current and still transmit the same power? Simply increase the voltage. Remember, Power = Voltage x Current. If we increase the voltage by 10 times, we reduce the current by 10 times, and this reduces the power lost in the wire by 100 times. So let's go back to our small town using 23MW of power. If we tried to transmit that power to the town at 230 volts down wires with a resistance of 1 Ohm, it would have needed 100,000 Amps of current, resulting in 10,000MW of power loss. However, what if we used a High Voltage power line running at 132,000 volts? (132kV) This would reduce the current required to just 174 Amps. Transmitting this down a wire with a resistance of 1 Ohm would result in just 0.03MW of power lost as heat. To provide 23MW to our town, we would have to send 23.03MW down the power line. The longer a wire is, the higher its resistance will be. If a piece of wire has a resistance of 1 Ohm, then a piece of wire twice as long will have twice the resistance, i.e. 2 Ohms. This means that longer wires lose more power due to resistance, so the further you transmit power, the more you lose as heat. Clearly, you would be mad to try and send electricity a long distance at low voltage. You would use a high enough voltage to reduce power losses to an acceptable level, and that's exactly what happens in real life. But how do you change the voltage? As I said earlier, the two ways of generating electricity are direct current or DC, and alternating current or AC. The reason why we use AC in our homes is that it is easy to change the voltage, whereas with DC it would be very difficult.

[@tylerb9808]

Would / could you assemble an 8S with these for a 24V pack, and be able to use an 8S 100A bms? My current DIY 24v 100Ah 8s bank needs more capacity, and was considering paralleling these 280Ah for a total of 380Ah capacity. No heavy loads at this time, just conservative off grid lighting, tv, general device charging..etc.. my inverter is only a 2000W cont/4000peak at this time. Thoughts?

[@thomasnyanfore8424]

have you done a review of the smbs0?

[@VincentsfamilyCali]

Hello experts, I put a 4S DALY BMS to my 272AH pack and check the voltage from BMS P- to Batter B+ and it show 3.11V, when i check from Battery B- to B+ it show 13V.... is the voltage from P- suppose to be same as B- ? thanks

[@NrlyWrx]

Excellent POST 👍🏼

[@shinosg-wiz4619]

Do you have any idea what's the REAL peak discharge for those cells? Why didn't you checked the capacity of each single cells instead of checking them all together? Sometimes under the top black sleeve I've found they scratched something as if a barcode or something was there. Ps. Your cell n.1 that jumped to 3.6 have you later tested if it has less capacity?

[@duskos3z569]

Hi, thanks for great info. I have a comment about the M6 screws, though, In order to use the full depth of the inside thread and compensate for different thickness of bus bars, I recommend to take longer M6 screw, cut the head off and then fully screw it in as a post. Then use M6 washer/nut to tighten the bar to specification. Just a thought. Cheers.

[@john_in_phoenix]

Most people use 25mm m6 studs (they have an allen head) rather than cutting off screws. McMaster Carr has 10 packs for $3.52 (stainless steel).

[@w3bb0y]

Threaded studs and flanged nuts seem to be the best option for these cells. Apparently it's really easy to damage the threading as it's an aluminium terminal

[@john_in_phoenix]

@@w3bb0y Some vendors just started offering studs welded in rather than tapped holes. Probably costs extra, but that is an option that I would pay for, the aluminum is too easy to strip when trying to get a nice tight connection.

[@tonymoore6191]

Great breakdown ... one thing has me ... Building a powerwall is straight forward, I'd like to see an Automatic Transfer Switch for Grid to Battery power, I have a 200amp service, but the only ATS I can find seem to be 100amp, should I take the feed-in from the grid and split it one to a sub-panel powered by the ATS, separating out the circuits I want to power from Batteries?

[@glisse45]

hello, what tightening cut of the connection screws

[@PentaxLife]

What is your opinion about compressing of these battery cells

[@andreyl2705]

Thank you. very useful.

[@cbiltris]

Hello. I have a question. I have a 250amp AliExpress battery plus his 250amp Daly BMS. When I'm charging, I have 14.1 out of the charger and in the BMS But, out the BMS (P+) I only have the battery voltage 12.9. and it's not increasing Am I not supposed to have 14.1 or more than the battery voltage out of the BMS? Thanks

[@asderven]

Didn't find anyone mention the numbers, but if you add in the line losses, you'll be closer than than 271ah mark. Still not crossing the 280ah barrier though. In future, if possible, for a testing rig, try shorter cables to reduce line losses?

[@diysolaradventures7894]

how did u do the wireless lcd screen i want a setup like that

[@yoduro]

271 is quite close & good for first run. Your readings might possibly be off by 1 or 2 % anyway. Several cycles should increase the measurements.

[@kaikart123]

also count the BMS and cable loss

[@DavidReagan]

What kind of longevity do you expect? Does the company claim an amount of cycles?

[@ricksellers396]

Can you do an update on this brand of cells? The video is about 4 months old are they holding up? I am thinking of buying but endurance is my concern on Chinese batteries, thanks