Every Mechanic Needs This Tool! Save Time & Money!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

If this video helped you, please consider clicking on the THANKS button above to support my channel and don’t miss this video next on repairing a Briggs and Stratton classic engine kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKu8dZuJjLCajJo

[@nothankyou5524]

Nicely done! Very nicely done!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@@nothankyou5524 thank you!

[@ryelor123]

It would be neat if someone could build an arduino controller that would take the data from infrared thermometers and have it control the induction heater so that you could temper steel. It wouldn't be perfect, but it would be useful for tool tips like the ends of screw drivers and chisels or for home blacksmithing.

[@lilmike2710]

Welp.. I'm sold. This tool has just become a must-have for my humble little shop.

[@Mattlawton-ft6ew]

The file is brittle to start with

[@wictimovgovonca320]

I'm sorry I watched this video. Now I need to get another toy and sneak it into my workshop.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

😂😂😂👍🏻

[@zenhakuden]

Saaame

[@seanvanveller5276]

my wife is at the store, I'm still on tool video probation.... I'll have to clear my history 😂

[@DontLookBehindYou1]

Ikr!!!

[@TheMattC9999]

Same here....

[@jdhtyler]

1970s we sharpened pickaxes for the road gangs in the forge, draw the tip to a point, partly quench to harden the tip rub the tip on the floor to make it shiny and wait for the colour bands to creep up from the residual heat and then fully quench at Purple to set the temper.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Crazy! Thanks for sharing :)

[@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st]

I always wondered why that wasn't that process in play - but there was - that was manly work you know ? you'd think the same for larger construction shovels - they would have a thuggy boy forge to throw the shovel teeth into to keep them hard

[@1988dgs]

I sharpened a chisel back in the 90’s on a grinder, didn’t know anything about hardening but the tip changed colour, so I sprayed it with wd40, don’t use it often but it’s still hair shaving sharp

[@jdhtyler]

​@@1988dgs I guess the WD40 evaporation did the trick to cool and set the temper. As part of my 1979 apprenticeship, a hacksaw project to test skills was to make a 6 inch G clamp out of solid flat bar. At the end the task was to put it in an electric furnace to temper it BLUE but mine came out dark brown, the lesson learned was the electric furnace dial is not accurate ;-) The year before at school I was told to make a cast aluminium G clamp the same size :-)) I think I still have it as a paper weight ;-) The skill being taught was green sand casting. Glad you kept the chisel all the best

[@autumn5592]

​@@jdhtyler Unless the chisel reached red hot (austenizing point specifically), the only thing that happened was it got softer. Spraying WD-40 on something with blue or purple oxide will just cool the softened steel faster.

[@victorsteerup4582]

I got one of these for a tough job repairing front suspension of a car, could not use flame near the firewall / floor with insulation and carpeting. Worked good.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Awesome! Pleased to hear it :)

[@Comm0ut]

I ran an industrial induction heater as a lad. The coils were liquid cooled and we annealed hydraulic cylinder shafts up to 4" OD. It made a fine hot dog cooker if ya skewered the hot dog with a piece of wire though getting the timing right took some pedal practice.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

LOL! Love it 😂

[@capoman1]

What a lad you were.

[@deadbluesky]

This is an old tool i used every day while i was working at Toyota, Hyundai and Honda like 17 years ago, the one we used was called Mini Ductor, the Vevor is more for the consumer at home we tried it in a garage and it dies after 2 years while the Mini Ductor is still working after 10 years at Hyundai (the last garage i did work before i changed my line of work) although he is a lot more expensive, i think they made a more powerful version now a 1800 watts. What i like about this tool instead of using an acetylene torch for heating bolts is the fact that you don't need to worry about burning a bushing while heating the bolt.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for sharing!

[@vhoward1122]

You can use bare copper wire of the proper gage as long as the coils do not touch. But that would only be in case you couldn't get replacement coils.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re spot on, since the release of this video, I ordered 2.5mm solid copper wire and you also need a roll of 3mm fibreglass sleeves. Just make your own. Even cheaper than the ore fabricated coils :)

[@SeanLynchXY]

@@VintageEngineRepairsand @vhoward1122 Thanks for the money saving tip!

[@VeePickering-zh4vf]

Many thanks for this , I’m definitely going to purchase one for the workshop , what make is this one please

[@bryanpetersen1334]

Great content I always wished I had an oxy/ acetylene torch for stuck bolts and parts, but if you don’t have a lot of use for it, the expense and tank lease isn’t feasible. I bought one of these inductive heaters, and it’s almost always better than a torch. No starting the engine compartment on fire, or damaging anything in close proximity. Love this tool, even after 6-7 years. I think I paid about $450 online. For cutting, I can often soak welding rod in water for a bit and cut with that, or use a small plasma cutter for finer work. Also, I use an induction cooktop that I busted the glass on to heat larger areas and non protruding parts. This just reenforced my reluctance to throw anything away that might be usable if modified. For non ferrous materials, you can stick a piece of iron on it.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Awesome and thanks for sharing! 👍🏻👍🏻

[@digitalbase9396]

Wow, what a great tool. Very handy in the workshop especially for stubborn bolt removal and making custom tools etc

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Spot on :) I agree!

[@k.pliskin3214]

Absolutely amazing. I gotta grab me one of these

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

They’re great :)

[@waschbaers_werkstatt]

Induction also works on non ferric, even non metal material, the material only should conduct electricity. Aluminium need more electric field, it gets hot, but not always, if the field isn't strong enough. It also works on carbon, like a graphite crucible to melt metals in it.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for sharing! I tried a small brass bar it was hardly even warm after 10 seconds. I tried brass tube and it was glowing.

[@waschbaers_werkstatt]

@@VintageEngineRepairs you're welcome. its also depends on mass, if there is more mass it can induce more heat, but more mass needs more heat, it spreads evenly. small things get hot, as bigger once, but i think bigger things got better mass to surface ratio therefore, less heat dissipation.most effect as already mentioned is the distance to the coil and turns. Tubes are a good shape, for that. Its really try and error, depending on the device.

[@juststeve5542]

I came here to say that. It relies on induced current, so the target only need to conduct. You can heat up carbon with an induction heater... Try a pencil, the graphite will work (have a bucket of water ready!)

[@waschbaers_werkstatt]

@@juststeve5542 Pencil works best with 24V DC on both ends :D its a quality test *just kidding*, bad pencils can detonate, not really violently but a bit scary, when the wood releases gases on the inside. wear protection, do it outside, with no flammables near, water bucket ready :D but that's not induction, it's fun.

[@phizc]

​@@VintageEngineRepairsthermal conductivity also plays a role. Aluminum, copper, brass, etc. are 2-5 times more thermally conductive than steel. So with a 1kW induction heater like that, the heat spreads into the rest of the material almost as quick as it's "produced", so the entire part warms up instead of just the area next to the coil.

[@slartybartfarst9737]

I had one it blew up after 5th cycle, I kept within the 2 minutes but i suspect not waiting 5 minutes in-between each cycle compounds the heat. Still a good tool ill probably go for the slightly more expensive one with a remote box for the electronics.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Ah sorry to hear it! I hope you managed to get your money back :)

[@kululv]

one of the most helpful uses are to heat up stuck rusted bolts. Iit works like a charm!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Spot on :)

[@TEKENGLOBAL]

Just wanted to take a moment to thank you for this wonderful content. 👍 All of the testing and examples of how this tool could be used in a real world application was spot on! 🤟 Thank You - Rock On!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks mate I really appreciate it!!!

[@joeordinary209]

It really works, open a few bolts with it after purchase just like nothing after previously heated, soaked and what not in wain.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Yeah it’s an awesome tool!

[@mattikaki]

Thank you. It’s quite cheap today. Around 200 euro including shipping. This is the next tool I’m going to get.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@nazigrammar9728]

same price was 3-4 years ago when I got mine

[@maifreund4121]

I enjoy your videos! Useful subject matter and HIGH production values: Steady camera, in focus, narration matches video, Story sequencing advances the message without gaps. Kudos too for understandable enunciation without Australian idioms that this Cajun cannot fathom! Again, great job! I look forward to more videos. Induction heater comment. First time I saw induction heating was in 1976 at a 3-mandrel tube swager at Dana's Spicer Axle plant in Ft. Wayne. - a 12-foot tall device that sequentially induction-heated & then swaged a bell-shape on the outboard end of an axle tube. Each successive mandrel took the straight tube a bit further to the final shape. The Holder/transporter mechanism picked up new tube at top, with each cycle; Pickup, Heat, Swage1, Heat, Swage2, Heat, Swage3, then drop into a pit of coolant where a conveyor belt hauled it up. The machine cycle time was about 5 seconds to cherry-red. So a finished part every 5 seconds and a through-put time of 30 seconds! It fed a process that produced 100,00+ light truck axles / month.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

It’s always really nice when people like yourself realise and mention production quality, narration etc. I work really hard to make the content as engaging and high quality as I can so when people realise it it’s great :) thanks for sharing!!

[@sluggonotnancy6178]

@@VintageEngineRepairs ....I agree, the Cajun is right. Nice job.

[@roystevenson1375]

This induction heating effect from coiled wire is precisely why we as electricians are no longer permitted to instal helix coils at the entrance to electrical equipment -previously they were installed to help absorb vibration

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Interesting! Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻

[@godfreypoon5148]

I'll give you fifty bucks if you can get a bit of coiled mains supply lead to appreciably induction heat something.

[@roystevenson1375]

@@godfreypoon5148 SWA singles count for the $50?

[@bogeydope3022]

@@godfreypoon5148 Yap, i'll stack another fifty on top for that to see. What a bunch of crap.

[@beakittelscherz5419]

This tool should come very handy for my wood turning shop. I Turn small objects and reuse old screwdrivers to make me fine detailed tools. Awesome video, well done. Thanks for show&tell, Sir 👀🤓👍👍👍

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Fantastic!! Absolutely :)

[@pikesticker]

I noticed that some of the centerfire rifle brass has the neck annealed by induction coils by some of the makers. Others still run a flame in their manufacturing process. Induction annealing just takes a second or two for a brass cartridge.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re spot on, even though it’s non ferrous, tubing like you mention glows red in a few seconds :) solid brass won’t though.

[@HK-uq9by]

Induction works on steel, minimum effect on brass

[@glennfelpel9785]

Sorry for all the comments. But strangely enough it comes through Amazon over here. Which means it will be here very quickly Thanks again for the video.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hey :) haha I guess you missed the text above the USA / UK link 😂 Vevor contacted me saying they don’t sell them on their US / UK websites any more so I found the identical product on Amazon for you guys :)

[@scorpnz4433]

Refillable propane bottles come in different sizes. Some bottles are on exchange basis if you prefer otherwise it's retest every 5 years. Advantage of owning own bottle is gas cost. Numerous sizes of tips for propane for increase or decrease in flame type, i.e needle point for extra low heat to wider for large area heating without the need for different sized torch handles, no need for a regulator as the handle is the reg i.e restrictive orifice. The device you show if it could heat a u shape coil would make it more effective on pipe or other material where you want to join stuff without it looping around the object

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Very true! I use Map/pro so it’s just the one size by bernzomatic. Unless you know or other more affordable Map/pro out there? You can heat up shape u-shape material. Just bend the coils to the profile - it doesn’t have to wrap all the way around. Regarding propane vs induction, propane has its place without question! They compliment eachother and have areas where they excel!

[@mikelastname]

I just upgraded to oxy-propane and the accuracy of heating is nice rather than the broader flame of mapp burner, but the induction looks even faster (but not nearly as exciting as holding a lit blowtorch!).

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@@mikelastname gotta love the controllability of oxy!!!

[@glennfelpel9785]

Very good review. A totally agree with you. We need both of them. I certainly did enjoy your comparison at the end. I believe you touched on every point and very well at that you were quite fair in your review. Thank you for the effort you put into the video.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hey Glen! Thanks for the kind words and feedback :) much appreciated and I’m glad it resonated with you!

[@millechemins8436]

yersterday i refill a acetyle b2 tankfor 100$ and i use almost half of it trying to separate a washer shaft from the tub, i ordered a induction heater for 359$, can t wait for to come. if that tool can braze , i will rarely use torch again

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

What a nightmare! I think you’ll be very impressed. Make as many coils over the part as you can and get them as close to the part too (without touching). You’ll be amazed how effective it is!

[@mrcryptozoic817]

I have a coil stainless wire that I need 3' long straight lengths of. Now I know there's a tool that will make the job possible. Thanks!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Awesome! You’re welcome :)

[@frederickcwinterburn1837]

I wish I had known about this 40 years ago. Thank-you

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re welcome!

[@slayerspam]

I have been looking for ine if these for a couple years. Thank you for show us this!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re very welcome! I’m glad you enjoyed it :)

[@bobbobberts]

Propane cylinders are blue and, map gas cylinders are yellow and are hotter. And I could really use that heater ! Great demo .

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Sadly the Map/Pro by barometric is only 100 degrees difference to the blue now days! Glad you enjoyed it :)

[@jefff6167]

Thanks for creating this very interesting and informative video. Very helpful.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks again Jeff :) glad you enjoyed it!

[@kenlipper874]

Very cool tool. Might have to grab one.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

They’re awesome!

[@hamlet2554]

Excellent info and now subscribed to your channel. I had no idea that these induction heating tools existed.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for the sub :) glad you enjoyed the video! Yeah it’s been terrific, I use it constantly now. I grab it before the propane torch at any given opportunity.

[@philliphall5198]

Seems like a very handy tool just in case you need it 😮. Thanks 🙏

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Absolutely :) I use mine more than my propane torch now

[@h82crash]

This is a very cool tool. Been wanting an induction heater. A propane torch costs $167 dollars in Australia? Wow! In the US name brand torch is about $50, Chinese knock-off $25.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

It’s frustrating how expensive things are out here! Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@augustlandmesser1520]

Because the US is forcing the world on Petrodollar exchange 😄

[@Zsigmund]

Thanks for the very thorough video. I have no choice but to get one now! 👍

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hahaha you’ll love it 😂👍🏻

[@B1OD]

Shut up and take my money! Love your channel, simply presented and a wealth ot tips. I'm curious where you are based in Australia (if you are close I'd definitely call by with a repair)

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Haha thanks for the kind words :) I’m in Western Australia!

[@B1OD]

@@VintageEngineRepairs Ah bugger. Guess I'll have to just learn myself from your videos :) Many thanks from SA

[@opforwarrior]

The consumables can be made with solid copper wire inserted into the propper silicone impregnated fiberglass tubing or bought in premade bulk lengths from amazon. Also you can use regular braided copper wire if you tin the ends. I think it's 10awg. The basic unit has sellers going down to $155 on amazon in a box with basic wire set. [As shown in review]

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Spot on :) you’re absolutely right!

[@stephenrose8188]

Very good video with lots of useful and clear information. They certainly are great tools to have in your inventory, I work on all sorts of kit but a lot of vehicles and suspension nuts are often as rusty as an anchor, this tool makes short work of removal often where localised heat is an advantage (ie where you don't want to affect the structure / nature of the adjacent piece of metal that is not sacrificial. Every workshop should have one.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for the kind words and feedback :)

[@longlifeprinters9]

Very good, thanks for your review of the induction unit. I want one & could see a lot of uses in my home shop !

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Glad you enjoyed the video :) thanks for the kind words, you certainly won’t be disappointed :)

[@SS-U23]

Useful tool, thank you!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re welcome!

[@TheRealRenn]

Nice demo. Thank you for sharing.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re welcome :) thanks for watching!

[@rjwiderman]

Ive been ysing my induction heater tool for a year now. I use a laser temperature tool to give me a more-accurate temp range, than to depend on metal color change. Share with us what you've done in the way of tool experiment shaping.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Awesome! I use mine all the time. It’s my go to, if it doesn’t work for my needs only then do I grab the propane lol.

[@glennfelpel9785]

It sure did resonate. So much so that I just ordered one. Not too bad either with tax and all it was around $240 USD

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Awesome :) you’ll love it!

[@MrTerrymiff]

Good article. Only thing to mention is that 'ductility' is the ability of a metal to be drawn out into a thin wire. The word you want to describe the ability to bend a metal is 'malleability'.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Ah thanks for the correction! :)

[@MrTerrymiff]

@@VintageEngineRepairs Happy to assist.

[@JorgTheElder]

I think you are being overly pedantic. Ductile also means "able to be deformed without losing toughness; pliable, not brittle."

[@ArifGhostwriter]

​@@JorgTheElder That definition is wrong in that it is not complete enough to correctly define 'ductile', & is likely random & brainlessly AI-generated. Malleable & ductile are related concepts - but different in very specific ways. The definition you've cited should only belong in a dictionary entry under 'malleable'.

[@thatsthewayitgoes9]

Thank you. Excellent topic and demonstration

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! :)

[@thatsthewayitgoes9]

@@VintageEngineRepairs I’m a licensed full time professional gunsmith ( >35y) and almost daily do the heat treatment and bending like you demonstrated. Making parts & tools. Silver brazing, which I should do more, I tend to avoid because torch is often difficult to apply. This could be an excellent source of heat for me. Never knew they made them this small & compact

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@thatsthewayitgoes9 They really are amazing, you’d find them an absolutely fantastic tool in your instance, localised heat, controllable and won’t burn anything else around the work area! I have used mine almost every day since it arrived for different tasks around the workshop! I’ve added links in the description - see the updated version I have linked to, I think you’ll be even more impressed! Also, buy 2.5mm copper coil and 3mm fibreglass sleeves and make your own coils. It’s even cheaper than the pre formed ones. Also save the copper, anneal it and reuse it when the fibreglass sheathing does eventually fail!

[@ScottWConvid19]

Here in the USSA, the yellow cylinders are MAP gas and the Blue or green cylinders are LP (Propane).

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Spot on 👍🏻

[@TheDarkSkorpion]

Unfortunately, there is almost no advantage to getting the yellow canisters, since they don't make MAPP gas anymore. Map/Pro isn't the same, and not really any hotter than propane

[@glensubtorq]

Yes. I do need one of these. Will be better to use this for heating up bearings to remove from a shaft than using an Oxy set 👍😎

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Absolutely! I couldn’t be without mine now!

[@barryobee1544]

Very interesting video!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks!

[@alecmiddleton1842]

Oooh.. This is temptation. I have a collection of thin walled mild steel tent and marquee poles for repurposing into useful new things, or just for creative fun. I am building my own truss for a new shed roof right now and plan to make custom curtain poles next. Arc welding thin walled steel together is time consuming and tricky - so easy to blow holes instead of make neat joints. Not long taken delivery of some Polybend, a non-toxic plastic version of low melt metal such as Woods Metal, so I can bend the tubes without losing the circular profile. I can see this induction heater heating two thin steel tube ends to welding temperature so all I have to do is push them together to make a join. If that doesn't work I'll braze the two ends. Neat, easy and quicker than arc welding. Off to check bank account...

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Awesome project for the induction heater! That’s a great way to do it, as you say - its easy to blow a hole through it with welding, at least with my level of skill haha. This is a fool proof method for brazing :)

[@ralfbaechle]

I'm interested in induction heaters for a number of years but they used to be closer to like 800€ so I was considering to brew my own. This model while still not cheap is much more affordable and the underlying technology actually has the potential to get much cheaper.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Yes it’s incredible how much kore accessible many electronics have become!!

[@ralfbaechle]

@@VintageEngineRepairs I think it's a very simple device. A Basic version needs only a transformer and I was wondering if a classic welding transformer at a suitable setting could be used. A fancier version would use actual electronics. Something to experiment on, I guess 🙂

[@ulbuilder]

You can find pre-assembled induction heater circuit boards for as little as $10. Quality and longevity likely not good at the lower end of the prices but sometimes I'm quite surprised with the quality of cheap circuit boards I've purchased.

[@davidmech2956]

Good show. Thank you!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thank you!

[@kendocashwell4537]

Please be sure to cover the effects on magnetic parts and if they are in close proximity of the part you intend to work on. These can effect the nature and power of the magnet

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for sharing 👍🏻

[@cobar5342]

This is wonderful - thank you

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!

It might, sort of work for a single garden shed bodge. Temper steel uniformly and properly with a kiln containing a thermostat and a timer offering successive applications with controlled ramps.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I’m just a shed bodge lol

[@martin-vv9lf]

i'd have liked to see you braze carbide cutters to boring bars for lathes.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Because carbide isn’t ferrous it can’t be brazed using the induction heater sadly! I’m not sure if the radiant heat would be sufficient to heat the carbide up enough.

[@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st]

@@VintageEngineRepairs or if you could make (drill out ) a steel shell that form fitted over the tooth - maybe wrap a soft iron wire into a form around the carbide tooth ?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Interesting! Great ideas to try :)

[@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st]

@@VintageEngineRepairs Your demonstration of tempering and annealing was amazing and lucid - putting into action my old welding text book explanations - brittle as glass and then ductile as a soft iron nail and yet the same identical material - almost magic

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Isn’t it incredible. Steel is a wonderful material!

[@donniejo8888]

I need this for my Nectar Collector

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I had to google that 😂

[@justinrinker6091]

I made one for 13$ to use in mycology lab to sterilize scalpel. Works great for dabs.

[@slopsec2358]

Very cool, and interesting video. Thank you.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re welcome! Glad you enjoyed it :)

[@erintyres3609]

I wonder why it can only heat ferrous metal. The electricity flowing in the heater coil ought to induce current in any conductor. For example, the primary and secondary windings of a transformer are coils of copper wire.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

It’s an electromagnet and because the metal being heated needs to be ferrous I believe that’s where brass and other non ferrous metals won’t work. However I’m no expert, just using logic so open to any correction!

[@tookitogo]

Transformers use copper wire, but they still require a ferromagnetic core to transfer the magnetic field efficiently. With induction heating, the workpiece is the ferromagnetic core. Induction heating does technically work with nonferrous metals, but it’s so inefficient (lossy) that it takes enormous amounts of energy to actually heat the workpiece, or conversely, the heating effect is uselessly small with ordinary equipment.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@@tookitogo thanks for sharing! I find it’s great on non ferrous tubing, for example shell casings but useless on non ferrous solid bar

[@danlemke6407]

First of your vids I have watched and found it very enjoyable and ofc educational. I would say if I had a beef, it would be you priced a propane kit, but left us in the dark on the induction lot. I know that many utubers are reluctant to price items maybe because they fluxuate which may draw comments, but I have found most of us just want a general idea of the cost to stick in our nuggets and try and rationalize how badly we want said item, not to quibble over who may sell one for less etc. Anyways, I watched it for heating exhaust studs, which most know if you don't many will snap off in the most convenient of places. So one other issue would be accessibility of getting them in tight spaces. Can you make longer ones? Just food for thought on usability. I like the idea of no open flame while working on a gas powered anything and control over what gets heated, like not worrying over your torch tip setting something on fire or melting a bit of plastic which all newer things seem to be built with. IE: Damage control. Anyways, thanks so much.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hey, no I didn’t, I showed the price of the induction kit when I was talking about comparing prices. It was circa $300 Australian dollars. I don’t know the exact figure now as I made this video a fair while ago, but the price is there for everyone to see.

[@vlota]

I usually switch off as soon as I see a video is sponsored [especially by Vevor, who must have bribed half of KZbin to give them glowing reviews] but I did stick around til the end of this one because you did at least go a bit "off-piste" by trying a few interestig experiments with it.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for the kind words :) let me start out with saying I fully understand what you mean, I feel the same way watching other reviews. I hope that over the years I have shown to be a valuable source of honest, unbiased content. I made it very clear to Vevor that anything I review will be done so in a fair, honest and unbiased way. That I don’t guarantee a positive video review nor will I structure or base it around a framework or wording stipulated by them. No one can buy or control my channel or reputation. Now, let me also say, Vevor have been just wonderful. All they ever ask for is my own experience be it good or bad. Either way, I’m glad you enjoyed the video and it offered value you haven’t seen in other ones on this tool :)

[@a9ball1]

​@@VintageEngineRepairs That was a very nice statement you just made! Cheers

[@schwuzi]

I have a vevor pcp pump and a magnetic drill. They get some good use and abuse and they still work. Currently eyeing one of their ultrasonic cleaners, and now this thing is on the list too 😂 I've had good luck with them so far. I buy them directly on AE and not from their store, then you can save a little bit more.

[@kabuti2839]

I saw a guy in a 3rd world country using a larger one to make a knife & i was amazed. I've only used induction for cooking & love it.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

The best cook tops aren’t they!! :)

[@tillrassbach]

….😅

[@qoph1988]

Yeah I'm sold

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

👍🏻👍🏻

[@dewfall56]

Is that model boat a 40” Prather Deep Vee?

[@andrecosta9e]

Thank you for the great video 💪🙏🏻

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re welcome! Thanks for the kind words :)

[@hectorvido]

Awesome! :D from Brazil

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thank you!

[@TheRitchieLeeShow]

I have seen these before. They weee mostly used to heat up rusty crusty nuts and bolts. I have seen more and more of these vevor tools that I like. 😊

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I’ve got a few vevor tools, they are excellent value. 👍🏻

[@TMM6900]

Love the curious experiment video

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!

[@jamesroland5520]

Thanks so much! Great data.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re welcome :)

[@trustmeiknowwhatimdoing3720]

Could this possibly work to heat 1.5" tubing to bend it?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Absolutely! Easily too.

[@almclean4835]

Great tools, very nicely thought out video. I think I saw a man making his own coils

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks Al, yes absolutely, just use 2.5mm copper wire and 3mm fiberglsss sleeves

[@Hybridknfgrowchannel]

Ha i made one myself years ago hehe high current heating good stuff

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Sweet!! Good job 👍🏻

[@afellowinnewengland6142]

They're wonderful tools, but there's so many brands and models out there ranging from very expensive to very cheap. Hard to know what's good quality, effective and reliable. How does a $150 model perform vs a $1500 model and how much use and abuse can they handle over time? For now, I'll make do with the old torch.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Yeah they’re brilliant!! Regarding longevity, I’ll certainly do an update video in a year and share how it’s holding up :) this is aimed at the home mechanic of course, but I’ll be using it professionally so I’ll be putting it through its paces. Thanks for watching!

[@timloer5419]

You could also check hardness to some degree by touching the piece to a sander or better to a grinding wheel. The harder, the more white and starlike the sparks, vrs. The orange and less starlike. 👍🏻

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for sharing :)

[@AM-dn4lk]

Awesome video. Thanks.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching :)

[@mrsmith5114]

Seems like it be good for rusty bolts as well? Stuck brake lines?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Yep 👍🏻

[@Gazr965]

The induction heater was fast ! Gaz UK

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Heck yeah :) good job

[@mrcabasa]

Nice!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks :)

[@TheOneAndOnlySame]

10:02 It should not bend , it should be springy . The issue here is that you partially annealed this part when you brought the first part to red. So it's not hard anymore where it bends.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I’ll have to rewatch the video and look closely, thanks for watching!

[@TheOneAndOnlySame]

@@VintageEngineRepairs 👍‍‍

[@guestguide2544]

Very interesting, never seen this kind of tool. Great for silver soldering as shown but does it work in same situation with regular brazing rod that needs a bit higher heat?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hey, I haven’t tried other rods, but for reference these are 45% silver brazing rods and require 1250f which melted very quickly. Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@WalkerSmallEnginePerformance]

Since it only works with ferrous metal, I wonder if some sort of steel insert could be used to place into an aluminum engine block then heated up for bearing installation.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Very interesting idea!!

[@ls2005019227]

Actually.... I'm not sure why they make this claim- I purchased one several years ago for many things; but primarily for annealing brass (a non ferrous metal) cartridge cases, & it works fantastic!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Yeah I tried brass tubing and works well, but solid brass stock it hardly even warms it up.

[@ls2005019227]

@@VintageEngineRepairs - Interesting. Scientifically, I'd like to know how tubing vs solid makes a difference- Thanks!

[@jagmarc]

Impedance seems to be better matched with higher relative resistivity metals such as iron.

[@Acemechanicalservices]

I wonder if this would be useful for loosening stuck nuts?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Yep 👍🏻

[@zvonibab]

good to find your channel cheers

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks!

[@zvonibab]

@@VintageEngineRepairs thank you for awesome content!

[@mikedougherty1011]

Can you use induction heater to break free nuts welded to exhaust bolts, instead of torching or cutting them free

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Absolutely! It’s a perfect scenario in which to use it :)

[@intothailand]

Wondering if the cost of electricity should be considered vs propane in a comparison.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

It’s a great question and something I calculated in response to other people’s posts, it’s literally nothing.

[@jdhtyler]

Using a steel rod / bolt inside a hollow brass fitting that has a split, I wonder if the radiant heat would silver solder the split wrapped with a shim of brass / copper to reinforce the split. Back in the 1980s we used special spelter rods that had flux in them. They were put on top of each tube to braze copper heat exchange fins and but on a chain belt to run through a bright brazing furnace it was a big thing about the size of a small bus. There were 12off 6inch diameter 5 ft long SS tubes with gas burner in each one We also had an Exothermic generator next to it that produced an oxygen free atmosphere One of my tasks was to service the burners and check the 12 burners combustion with an oxygen sensor.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Very good question!!! I have no idea, but that would be cool!

[@jdhtyler]

​@@VintageEngineRepairs The middle coupling on my power washer wand has split brass fatigue split because I used a rotary brush, the power washer is over 20y old and very heavy, the lightweight plastic same make replacement failed after 10y the motor bolts came loose and stripped the gear drive to the pump. The most dodgy repair we did to at the Blacksmiths shop was a hydraulic coupling we wire wrapped it in steel wire and brazed it. It held for the customer. My dad once repaired a fire engine cast iron gearbox that struck a rock and was in 16 pieces, using special nickel stick rods it was welded back together and kept warm on the forge to stop it cracking when it cooled. You turn it over by hand but it did squeak a bit, back in the 1970s a UK recession they could not get a new gearbox. 1930s my grandad made a micrometer, I still have it. I have a picture with him working in front of the Shaper and thread turning lathe ;-) he is shoeing a Shire horse for the local Brewery ;-) He hated the horses leaning on him..... He and my dad were small build I and my GGrandad were big chaps. Great days I learned to weld stick when I was 10y and in 1980s I bought my dad a Hobart TIG plant that was used in the Irish factory that made Delorean cars... One time my dad was on holiday and I had to visit the library to figure out how to repair a missing blade on two out board engines a Yamaha 70 and a (Mercury 70 I reckon this had more magnesium because I nearly set the prop on fire ) I balanced both props on a set of parallel bars using a flap disk. Those were the days without the WWW

[@lauraiss1027]

You should add electricity to price/consumables part for induction heater.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hey, it’s a fair point, but calculating it, it’s $0.0017 for a 10 second burst.

[@TonyOneBlairoby]

Is it reallistic to imagine the coil overheating a conic stamp of some sort (tungsten?) to plunge into steel plates, to avoid drilling countersink hole in like armor or wear resistant sheets?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I’m sorry mate I have no idea!

[@williamemerson1799]

Thanks alot, buddy. Dangle the porkchop in our face and then tell us we can't have one. 🤣 That things slick as snot on a raincoat. 👍🍻

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Mate it’s so bad I know!! sorry hahaha

[@justinlimbrick7237]

Great Video Tom how would it go cleaning up Stihl Spark arresters?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hey mate! Great I recon!!

[@mikem1014]

can you use induction to braze copper pipe

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I haven’t tried honestly, but I did try on tube and it worked great! Much smaller though so I can’t say how it goes for pipe.

[@JesTheii]

is that possible to add a probe touching the target to control temperature

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I don’t see why not! You just need a thermometer that can withstand the head. That said it won’t give you the internal heat of the piece.

[@supergimp2000]

So. I bought this. While I think it could probably heat a seized nut I can’t for the life of me get it to reach anything close to cherry red on a simple 1/4” mild steel rod.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hey, hmm something isn’t right there! If you aren’t getting it cherry red, use more coils and tighter wraps (closer to the object you’re heating).

[@NurchOK]

The heating happens from the induced "Eddie" currents, so no, it does not need to be a ferrous metal. Try it on brass, you'll be surprised.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Hey, I tried it did nothing, hardly even warm. However on thin wall tubing it did well!

[@NurchOK]

@@VintageEngineRepairs very interesting, perhaps it's using a frequency optimised for iron/steel. In general, though, is most definitely not a "ferrous metals only" device. Brass, copper, aluminium, etc. have better conductivity (i.e. lower resistivity) so even if the induced current is the same, the heat generated is I*I*R (I-squared-R, lol), with a significantly lower resistance, the amount of heat generated would be low. That's the only reasonable explanation of which I can think. An awesome device nevertheless. Thank you.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

@@NurchOK thanks for sharing :) yep I have seen commercial induction heaters work on copper! 👍🏻👍🏻

[@longdong3889]

​@@VintageEngineRepairscould I use this tool to bend 1" od 0.120" wall mild steel tube?

[@JorgTheElder]

Why ferris metals necessary? We boiled water with an aluminum ring headed via induction in physics class. You can induce a current in any conductor. They even use induced currents to sort condutative metals from non-conductive scrap in recycling.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

I’m really not sure, I believe because induction works off magnetism and exciting the iron in the material. It seems to work on non ferrous but is far less effective unless it’s thin tubing.

[@2000jago]

No Vevor link for Asia? Southeast Asia specifically?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

They didn’t supply one unfortunately :(

[@hermancm]

Hmm, I’m wondering if I could use one in my facilities maintenance job instead of using a flamed tool that I’d need a cumbersome hot work permit with a constant fire watch for a hour and a intermittent fire watch for an additional two hours.

[@TheDarkSkorpion]

These certainly look neat, I'm just trying to figure how often I'll use it. I already have a stick welder, a wire feed, 3 oxy/acetylene, 1 turbotorch, a propane torch, a propane forge, and a little butane torch for detail work. The flameless aspect has me intrigued, and I do have enough amazon gift cards to get this...temptation....I'll have to sleep on this one, last impulse buy I just had to have a shiatsu massage chair that I never use

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Absolutely, it would be a fantastic addition to your current setup and may find that it replaces it in most instances - I have. Flame has its place without question, but I’m reaching for my induction heater far more often than the torch now days!

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

You nailed it, it’s the flameless aspect (and just how efficient and quick it heats to cherry red) than is so good and unique!

[@hurleytom]

Will heating galvanised steel with this release the same toxic gases that welding does?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

That’s correct! Be careful with zinc :)

[@Omnivorous1One]

Do they sell or is it easy to find that wire you make the coils out of incase you want or need to make more or larger custom coils? If what your trying to heat up touches the induction coils will you get shocked?

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Since this video I ordered 2.5mm copper wire and insulation to make my own and always have on hand. Yes, if the metal coils touch metal, the tool sparks. Not good lol

[@niconine268]

What a craftsman & master teacher

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@neogeo8267]

Doesn't need to be magnetic metal to heat up. Eddie current is induced in all metals as far as I know. Mass / shape is more important than anything, me thinks.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

It seems to do well on tube in non ferrous, but solid bars it’s almost useless!

[@neogeo8267]

@@VintageEngineRepairs interesting! I wonder why. I'm gonna guess that it has to do with dissipation of heat in copper and aluminum. Can you check the front end loading? My guess is that it loads the same and dumps the same heat in but it travels down the bar faster. Though I'm happy to be wrong. Such interesting stuff

[@kris4362]

Thanks Tom, great presentation. Did it come with an AU plug.

[@VintageEngineRepairs]

Thank you! Yes mate :) no adapter needed :)