How To Install An Exterior Light And 3 Common Mistakes To Avoid

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Installing an exterior light is an approachable DIY project for most homeowners. With that said there are 3 common mistakes I see homeowners make and I will help you avoid these issues to ensure you have a code-compliant and safe installation. Remember to always check your local codes as NEC code enforcement differs state-to-state and in some states even city-to-city.
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[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Hire A Local Professional -thumbtack.57ib.net/c/1452141/269257/4348?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thumbtack.com%2Finstant-results%2F%3Fzip_code%3D60172%26is_zip_code_changed%3Dtrue%26keyword_pk%3D102906937284094959%26search_bar_query_pk%3D483916374826835976%26encoded_answers%3DeyJzZl9wayI6IjQ3ODU3MzEwNzM2NDA1MzAwNSIsImFucyI6eyI0IjoiNjAxNzIifX0%253D%26project_pk%3D483916393223897099 Project Cost Estimator - everydayhomerepairs.com/exterior-light-installation-cost/ All My Favorite Tools - www.amazon.com/shop/everydayhomerepairs

[@ianbelletti6241]

What you wanted in that application is a vinyl siding box. It would replace the vinyl block. What you want is the version for after the siding is already up (the back will be shaped to form with the siding).

[@amiga2025]

what is the result of a code violation?

[@EarthSojourner]

@@amiga2025 re: "What is the result of a code violation?" Fine in best case, fire in worst. Plus bad karma for putting nextdoor neighbors at risk, too.

[@weekendhomeprojects]

I just installed some exterior lights and used Wagos. It was an amazing experience.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

👊

[@randyscrafts8575]

WAGO's are a fire hazard.

[@weekendhomeprojects]

@@randyscrafts8575 For real? Why?

[@randyscrafts8575]

@@weekendhomeprojects @weekendhomeprojects Like the push in connectors on the back of the receptacles there is a very small contact point between the wire and connector that heats up as amps go up. I've replaced many melted receptacles over the years, mostly because of the push in connections. WAGO is newer but connects using the same principle. I believe Steve here, did a video on it, may have been someone else, that showed they do heat up. Some say the WAGO or similar push in/clamp in connectors are good. I know what can happen. I won't take that chance and warn others not to use them. They are good for low voltage low amp but 110/120, nope. I won't use them.

[@jimbo8743]

@@randyscrafts8575 Hi, what do you recommend instead of WAGO?

[@billsherman6129]

So nice to hear you pronounce Wago correctly! (I spent time looking for a video of a company employee saying the name of the company. Found one, from a trade show, and that's how he said it.)

[@shaynesabala]

Thanks for the video. I am rebuilding my childhood home and had an electrician doing all of the electrical. He’s on a vacation (founded by the state 🤦‍♂️) so I am left with a bunch of little things to do. One is outside lighting. This shows me the mounting way I need to use. The last video of yours I watched showed me the connector to use. I picked some up today but they are not exactly the same as yours. I searched your links and didn’t see the ones you recommended 🤷‍♂️

[@Sylvan_dB]

Good tip on the WAGOs, and connecting them to the stranded fixture wires first means the easier connection is while holding everything up in the air. An idea that might be helpful, is to take a stiff wire and make a hook (or use an 'S' hook from the hardware store) to hang the fixture off the electrical box while you connect the wiring. That is easy to unhook and screw it into place when ready.

[@RandomAxeOfKindness]

Couple of things, probably mentioned before, but I can't read all 500+ comments: - I did see people comment on the Romex into the box problem, so skip that. - Your pancake box compresses the vinyl siding beneath it, which is likely to make the siding's seam fail, either from flex or from temperature expansion / contraction. Better to cut the circle out of the siding beneath the block, too, and maybe to use a deeper box as a result. - As long as you're right there, check ALL the wires for current. I can't even say how often I've gone to change a light fixture somewhere and found it was wired wrong. A wire that isn't supposed to be hot can still kill you real easy.

[@efthimios]

I just got a ring food light and I tooom off the old floodlight like the one on the video but it was screwed into the plastic siding mount- there is no box - what should I do! I have a vinyl mounting block like the video- wow exact same issue and I almost installed it wrong putting the mounting bracket on the siding block What a great video ! Off to get a pancake block! Thank you!

[@BrucePappas]

Hi, Scott. Great idea for a video. I am reluctant to point out problems, but I know you're open to suggestions. 1. Running a wire into a metal box unprotected is a big no-no and code violation. You need a Romex connector, either metal or plastic that can act as a strain relief. The wires can rub and short out on the box. 2. Leaving open knock-outs in a box is also a no-no and a code violation, since the box cannot effectively contain sparks or even fire. Better to use a new box. 3. More an installation detail: I would have removed the square vinyl mounting block to cut it out. This would have allowed you to inspect the wire where it penetrates the wall and made cutting the block easier. 4. You noted that you want a waterproof seal on the fixture, but it is left with a gap to the mounting block. I think this is because the mounting screw bottomed out on the siding before pulling the fixture tight to the wall. I would use a 1.5" deep box and cut the vinyl side behind the box, so the box would be tight to a solid surface. This would also allow you to enlarge the hole where the wire comes through the wall to accommodate the Romex connector. With a deeper box, the mounting screw would NOT bottom out. If you were concerned about making this fixture weather-tight, you could caulk around the top half of the fixture, leaving the bottom open for drainage. Because the fixture is so close to the overhang, I'm not sure caulking is necessary. 5. EDITED: The Romex sheathing needs to extend inside the box at least 1/4". Otherwise, the entire wire needs to be replaced, if too short. In your video, we can't see the end of the Romex sheathing. I appreciate your videos and have learned many good ideas from you.

[@arthendrickson4860]

100% agree with # 1, 2, & 3. Regarding #4 "Because the fixture is so close to the overhang, I'm not sure this is necessary," what is "this" referring to? The bottom open for drainage or any caulking?

[@BrucePappas]

@@arthendrickson4860 - edited to specify "caulking"

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Hi Bruce, Thanks for the feedback. For #1 I did have a plastic insert to protect the romex from being cut on the metal but it was missing the strain relief tabs. Yeah, #2 is tough when using the 5/8" pancake box and needing clearance for the mounting bolt. Really appreciate you taking the time and providing all the detailed comments. Take care.

[@BrucePappas]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs - I see the black insert now. Unless the Romex is stapled within 6" of the box, the insert alone won't be enough. Given that they installed the original light without a box, I doubt the wire is adequately stapled. To be safe and to code, I'd put a Romex connector on the box.

[@i3igpete]

Would a tight friction-fit grommet/insert meet the requirement or does the connector need to be tighten-able?

[@emptech]

I noticed you did not use a clamp on the metal box where the romex cable enters the box, isn't this required by code? Those wagos are great, don't know how many wire nuts I throw into the garbage. Jim

[@James-bv4nu]

Great suggestion to use the Wago lever connectors instead of wire nuts. The alternative is to have three hands.

[@darriuscole8544]

Or tie up the new light while you twist the wires together and put on a wirenut.

[@James-bv4nu]

Great Vid! And maybe peel off those 3 stickers first, when you're standing on the ground and not the ladder.

[@terran5569]

Did that backing block come already notched for the 4" siding? I usually caulk the top and two sides.

[@BlueGillage]

Yes

[@charlespierce3647]

Glad country folks make their own codes.

[@y2j514]

Is a pancake box like that, used outdoors to code? How is it water tight? The gasket from the light fixture and/or a silicone bead around the light?

[@lakrfan4980]

The video was very informative and appreciated. It would be helpful to me if you could extend the light installation to show connecting the wiring to an existing circuit breaker or other location and how to route it to the installation area.

[@jimsummers487]

Don’t forget to set a fire extinguisher next to this install

[@nardi1783]

Thank you SCOTT for another great video. My home has double 5 inch vinyl siding. I looked on Amazon for mounting blocks did not find exactly what I needed for remounting coach lights on either side of my garage. Any ideas on where to get the proper vinyl mounting blocks?

[@jamesw4912]

Good one Just like a true salesman Tell your viewers not to use wire nuts for you can sell them something else from your Amazon store.

[@shantiEves]

Thank you very much, it's really help.

[@blackericdenice]

What about the rubber seal?

[@Scuijr808]

What if the old outdoor fixture doesn’t have a ground wire?

[@RetrieverTrainingAlone]

Lever nuts make sense for a more secure wire connection. You did not explain why installing an external junction box is important compared to the original external vinyl box. What is the advantage of an external plastic junction box?

[@DHxJarsyl]

I highly suspect that for the US, government codes are just a larger version of weaponized incompetence. Any professional can repeat them, lots of home owners can, but no one knows why it exists. It can effect the sale of the house, or get a fine by the local government for the home owner...but I have never once seen a professional actually held responsible for them. Worse, a company can do incredibly unsafe things, even destroy your house, and no one will actually do anything to them. When you install a light fixture though, better make sure there is an electrical junction box in the all, because the city wants to keep you safe. I literally had a company lie about pulling permits, lie about sub-contracting certified electricians and plumbers, and run a standard yellow romex to a 15-amp breaker for my Oven. City essentially sounds like a you problem, not a them problem. Good thing they were so adamant I put in a dig permit to install a french drain in an area of my yard where it is physically impossible for there to be any lines though, i'm totally sure that is what I needed protection from.

[@keithcarter9048]

don’t you have to leave your light switch on all the time for the camera to work? that circuit would have to be hot 24/7 right ?

[@62Cristoforo]

I’m surprised that mounting block doesn’t come with a cut-out for a junction box, like a 4-1/8th” cut-out.

[@woodstream6137]

Wanted to upgrade exterior lights in house i bought. Exterior Shed light just a hole in wall for wires. Deck lights missing junction box. Back garage door light not wired, housing covered. Front garage sconces x2 had romex into garage loft not tied into a circuit. Parking area has a finished ceiling with 2 light fixtures. The loft above, accessed via ladder, is partially covered with 4x8s lying on joists. I'm partial to motion sensing lights on the front too and will probably tie them into a switch inside the garage. Is there a proper way to route the romex over to a junction box in the loft (staples, drilling, etc)?

[@KameraShy]

"[Wagos] are not waterproof so cannot be used outdoors or in damp conditions, unless you use a Wago Gelbox, which will then offer IPX8 levels of moisture protection for the Wago 221 connectors." - zdnet

[@joshuahulce5630]

does code allow for stranded wire in a wire nut? i thought the stranded wire had to be either soldered or ferreled to make it effectively a solid wire.

[@austintexas9287]

Love the technical knowledge from Scott but Eufy security cameras are the worst. Because they are just not quality and not to envy for. I got rid and my eufy junks.

[@stevemerritt2721]

Disagree with the WAGO connections.30 yrs exp with industrial controls, i have seen too many intermittent connection problems with these type connections, also seen many problems with improper wire nut connections. I recommend using two sets of pliers, one to hold two wires and one to twist them together, then apply the wire nuts and finally electrical tape around wires to cover wire nut connection

[@steveallocco2245]

First, thanks Scott for your video. You have to have a strong upper chin, so to speak, but even those comments which add corrective information add value to your posts. Wow...another reason to miss church today, lol. I was mind-boggled by reading so many comments that I couldn't even finish them all. So here's what I got. Assuming everything is "product approved," where need be: Good job with the plastic Romex connector with a half inch of sheathing protruding into the box. I believe NEC (which itself is not law, but a national model code adopted by each jurisdiction right down to the municipality, any of which jurisdiction: federal, state, county, municipal can modify it to its liking)...in Florida, the FEC requires Romex wires all protrude a full 6 inches from the end of the half inch Romex sheathing. Admittedly, tough or impossible to do with a pancake box. Also, I believe all ground wires must be pigtailed into one wire nut and then grounded to the pancake with the proper metal threaded screw. As far as box fill goes, Romex connectors count a "1 point," unless it's a plastic box, and you only use one of the boxes strain relief tabs...then, it's a freebie. And I think the Romex coming out from the back of a metal box has to be fastened/stapled within six inches, but if it's coming out 9f the back of a plastic box, it's a different measurement: 8 inches, I THINK. To me, it's amazing how detailed code is. It makes married life seem easy. :-)

[@Manuel3525m]

What happen with the rubber gasket for dust ,moisture and debris . The one u install looks like all kind of insects are going to make it a home

[@georgemorales9680]

Go Solar Best Option

[@SaiaArt]

A pancake box is not rated for outdoor surface mount use. It's not waterproof. It can be used recessed in masonry only. So that is not suitable. Also, and this is more personal preference; integrated lights are terrible in concept. If one component fails eg one LED you need to replace everything. Better to use a fixture with standard screw in bulbs that is LED compatible. Not only can you replace individual failed components but you can tailor lumen output; making one LED that faces your bedroom window ie half as bright as the one aimed across the driveway or rear property line.

[@brianw3415]

That's a eufy security camera and not just a set of led light banks. I don't think anyone makes a camera setup that uses regular screw in bulbs. It has a good enough warranty so I'm not worried about an led going out on my own one. By the time the leds fail I'll likely want a newer improved camera anyways. It's only a 30 ish minute removal and install so not bad once every 3 to 5 years.

[@rhkips]

Get yourself a 4" piece of small-ish chain with an S-hook on either end. You'll almost always be able to find somewhere on both the light fixture and the J-box to attach to, allowing the light to hang freely and safely while you make your electrical connections and handle your tools. I find it especially helpful when I'm more than a step or two up a ladder, or installing large, cumbersome or awkward fixtures. :)

[@normferguson2769]

Recent light fixtures (LED typically) came with a 4” piece of cable and small carabiner type clip to hang it while making wiring connections. Love the concept. Large fixtures usually needed two people to get it up close to the box to connect to.

[@kw6713a]

Good tip, but I prefer to let my arms get tired and then yell angry nonsense at my wife or the cat, whoever is closest. Seriously though, going to take you up on this tip.

[@LouisWilen]

A short bungee cord also works well for this.

[@1pcfred]

Chain sounds pretty hardcore. I'd just use a bungee or something to hold that box up while I was working on it. Take your belt off. Something. Make a strap out of electrical tape.

[@normferguson2769]

@@1pcfred most guys use a stainless fishing leader about 6” long for most fixtures.

[@WVRetreat]

I have a couple more tips: 1) If your light fixture is missing a gasket, you can take clear 1/4-in tubing and cut a slit in it lengthwise, then run it around the perimeter of the fixture. This works for a lot of traditional light fixtures made of pressed metal. 2) Consider using waterproof wire nuts for outdoor uses like this for extra protection. These usually have a silicone sealant inside the nut that prevents corrosion.

[@ubermenschen3636]

@6:42, this dude is sly, slippery, and stealthy. He’s selling you Wago wire connectors without full disclosure that he’s a paid salesman. Notice how he slides the Wago sales pitch almost seamlessly into his exterior light installation. His straightforward low-key dishonesty exposes his immorality, lack of conscience, or shamelessness.

[@adriangriffin5151]

You can't have open wires going into the box. They can rub against the edges of the knockout and you might get a short to ground. The Romex should be pulled out a little and held in the knockout with a clamp. Also, check the neutral with your non-contact detector. There might be miswiring somewhere.

[@mae2759]

He did put a clamp on there.

[@incognitotorpedo42]

He used a plastic insert to protect the wires. Generally the NM should be clamped to the j-box, as you stated. I don't know if the plastic sleeve is code, but I don't think it will blow up.

[@RadioRich100]

Using a no contact detector is always a bad idea.

[@RadioRich100]

@@mae2759 It has to be on the sheathing.

[@JasonEDragon]

@@RadioRich100 When I watched the video I didn't see conclusive proof that there was available slack to allow some sheathing to be pulled into the box. I would have liked a deeper box, but then you run the risk of opening a hornet's nest of creating a bigger job when all someone wants is a new light hung. The problem was the initial install - and perhaps that the products commonly available on the shelf for both electrical, siding, and outdoor lighting could be better designed to avoid issues.

[@James-bv4nu]

Love this video. First of all, I believe this is a video to help DIYers, not to teach electricians how to do their jobs. From my experience, the majority of these DIY installation I've come across are, in some way, not strictly to code, or to electrician standards. But somehow they survived and have worked years and years, and without burning any house down to my knowledge. For me the most crucial issue is how well this installation is weather proof in preventing rain from coming into the house. Anytime a hole is cut in the exterior, you must make sure to do no harm to the house.

[@maxbalboa1149]

Would you use caulk to finish the installation here (I think so), where (around both where the mounting thing touches the vinyl and touches the floodlight?), and what type of caulk (silicone good enough)?

[@itzNickyJayBeats]

What if I am going with a bigger sized light? How can I modify the vinyl siding block to accommodate for my bigger light fixture?

[@mae2759]

Just buy a bigger block.

[@tchevrier]

I'm not sure I would have mounted that box on top of the vinyl siding. That said, since we're talking about code violations, how is that wire being run to the light?

[@timetriad6199]

Just use wired cloths hangars and attach your lights to your rain gutters. Wanna out do your neighbors, splurge on those awesome OUTDOOR extension cords and just run em out your window‼️👍🏻😅😂🤣

[@ChrisXif1]

I just did a lot of updates to a 1970s house a family member just moved in to, and the Wago lever nuts were so incredibly helpful and allowed me to fix numerous wiring issues that you simply couldn't do with conventional wire nuts. And using the Wago for ceiling lights and ceiling fans makes me wonder why anyone uses anything else. They are simply better in every way. Thank you so much for introducing me to the Wago and showing how to correctly use them.

[@philhouk3330]

They lack the durability and low price of wire nuts. On a big job, the price difference is fairly significant. They're also unnecessary to make solid/stranded connections if you know how to properly do them.

[@nicholashaines4136]

​@@philhouk3330just because something's expensive European and easier for DIY doesn't mean that it's always better, in my opinion if you want to properly install a wagi you tape the levers down so that they don't move on you when you're moving the wires. Now the end-to-end wago now that's something cool

[@MAGAMAN]

Those Eufy cameras are not high end, they are chinese made garbage. The let water in, the motion detection fails, they have constant problems. Most of the positive reviews on Amazon are less than two months old. The negative reviews say they fail in less than a year.

[@dalebabbitt6185]

Are Wago's acceptable for going from solid to stranded? Thanks for the video.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yep, perfect for that application. Some push-in connectors don’t allow it but WAGO 221 lever nuts are good to go 👍

[@davidmoran4471]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs In my opinion Wago is the preferred method for solid to stranded and as an added feature they fit in smaller boxes easier.

[@normferguson2769]

Last time I used them the fixture stranded wire refused to go into the Waco (or other brand) and I had to use wire nuts. I carry options so I don’t get frustrated if one doesn’t work.

[@1pcfred]

@@davidmoran4471 stranded to solid does offer additional challenges that can only be overcome with knowledge and skill. When I did electrical work I was trained in how to do it. You strip the stranded back more and let it stick above the solid.

[@neilmarsh1904]

@@normferguson2769 Push in or LeverNut? You aren't going to get a stranded wire into a push in without tinning it, and even then it's dicey.

[@vince6829]

Good video. Thank you for sharing. Question: Is it code compliant to use a pancake box outdoors in this kind of situation? I know the box itself is not weatherproof. I’m just wondering if there is an exception in the NEC that allows pancake boxes to be used outdoors this way. If not, I wish someone would manufacture a UL listed weatherproof pancake box for this kind of application.

[@MAGAMAN]

Wire nuts are absolutely fine for installing exterior lights. Instant thumbs down for that idiotic statement.

[@ngarber]

I've installed lights with the exterior boxes. One thing I was never sure of was whether the center Romex clamp should be inside the box or mounted to the back, in the wall. I opted to make the hole in the wall big enough for the clamp in back. Is that okay?

[@SRCardow1]

You installed it correctly. Some newer connectors can be used either from inside or outside. Must prevent romex (type nm cable) from pulling out of box.

[@janetyeoman1544]

That Eufi light assembly will make a perfect nest location for robins. They prefer a covered area.

[@edgarmercado8180]

Electrical code violation #4 you need a 1/2” knockout seal for that pancake box that you got there bud.

[@novafire99]

Changes I would make, use dielectric grease in the wagos to protect the connection from moisture/corrosion (don't think they are rated for damp locations, at least then they should be ok, there's not enough room in there to use wago's gelbox), use some kind of sealant (silicone or any other outdoor/wet/UV rated product) on the wall block and around the fixture on the top and sides leaving the bottoms somewhat open to breathe out any mosture that gets inside (i know in this case it is less likely water will get in from being under the overhang, but some always does, and i never trust those seals provided by the fixture). Done better would be to cut in a proper box in the wall to bring it up to code making sure eveything is properly strapped/secured and water proofed, never like seeing those shallow boxes outside like that directly attached to the outside of the wall, whenever i see them they are rusting from moisture and corroded connections (and yes usually mounted to a brick wall with no sealing around it).

[@jefffree6990]

good point - I guess wrapping the wagos in electrical tape and position them pointing up ( wires coming bottom) might also help to keep water from trickling in

[@slingshoter8783]

the regular silicone has ammonia and is corrosive to wiring.

[@yeudoi66]

Nothing wrong with wire nuts !😮 I was taught to keep it simple is class

[@galentaylor9953]

There is when mixing stranded and solid wires.

[@DotSunTv]

@@galentaylor9953no it actually doesn’t matter

[@darriuscole8544]

​@@galentaylor9953 - No, it's not. This guy is just trying to sell wago connectors. A properly installed wirenut is better than a wago connector.

[@TheYamahog12]

@@darriuscole8544Probably but in this situation the Wagos are much easier to work with.

[@hardkore360]

Exactly, I actually hate those connectors, there ia nothing ever wrong with electrical tape and wire nuts.

[@tckwhaleyable]

Leave it to a professional electrician.

[@kelvinl.3816]

I personally caulk behind it as well to make it completely seal. Is it a bad practice?

[@RexMoore1984]

Maybe it’s the video angle. It doesn’t appear you have a seal between your new fixture and the house.

[@Kevin-xi6ts]

We live in a simulation, dude.

[@Dracovivi]

Likely because the installed junction box was above the vinyl block.

[@dwaka08]

You are correct

[@dqauto500]

So at my old townhouse that we bought new in 2000, I was going around doing all of the diy things before we sold it. I shut off the power and verified that it was off to the outside porch light. And right there….. no junction box and no gasket! We had never changed it in 20 years. I took it off and took pictures then swapped it out for a new one. I put everything back the way it was but I did put a bead of outdoor silicone all around to make sure it was good and sealed. When I got up the ladder I saw that water had leaked in. I just didn’t want to leave it worse than when I was there. Now I see that I should have had a junction box! This was a brand new town home! There were so many little things that I wondered if they were to code. I added extra things and even hand wrote out what every breaker went to because sometimes the same breaker would turn off an outlet in two rooms but not the switches.

[@arthendrickson4860]

Instead of putting "a bead of outdoor silicone all around," leave the bottom open for drainage of water possibly leaking in.

[@Jack-Surreal_Panes]

Right. My home in 2006 didn't have boxes to any exterior lights. Newer may require it by code. Every year codes change. Now, if your business is repairs, you can try to repair to current code but is it necessary? Most folk will be concerned with a simple change fixture for a few bucks vs a professional charging a couple hundred bucks.

[@MoneyManHolmes]

I believe some fixtures can also serve as a junction box, but only if the manufacturer lists it in the instructions.

[@Voartist]

Another great video. Sometimes it's the simple things that matter. I have to change a light just like you demonstrated. I've done it many times but it always bothers me to wire it up, and then let the light hang until I can get situated to mount it. I always check the wires after the light has hung. And I love WAGOs. While changing my light, on a ladder, and juggling tools, I can let the WAGOs do the work. So, it's a simple idea, but it's profound. Thank you for your videos. As an avid DYIer, I thought I knew a lot. Your videos have shown me there's a lot yet to learn.

[@brianw3415]

I never ever hang things by the wires. Use 550 cord and metal S hooks to hang the item from. The hooks can attach to the box and the cord is tied around your item you are installing. Or I've also just strung the cord through an opening in the box then tied it around the ceiling fan to hold it while I put my wires together. Use an easy to untie knot that is secure and you can untie with one hand and lift the light into place.

[@RadioRich100]

These videos are garbage, showing people the wrong way to do electrical work all of them.

[@Voartist]

@@brianw3415 Good practices.

[@ronaldmckinney5693]

Your comment tells me that you need to call a professional...there's a lot of things wrong with this video. This guy probably means well,but he should not be giving advice on electrical work.

[@thisisreallyme3130]

I watch tons of (software) programming how-to videos, and I have to say your DIY videos are "up there" with the best of them. :-) You do not just show-and-tell, you anticipate other perspectives, and you take steps to "reduce the scope" (confidence boosting for viewers with no or little foundation in your material). I think yours is the only channel I am subscribing to for the DIY topic. That said, please heed the sparky comments about their code concerns on this one (stapling the wire near fixture box, no bare wires leading into box, etc). This might be an opportunity to revisit one of the installs and show how to do those improvements, even if they were not required code in your area.

[@yixnorb5971]

Some of these light fixtures come with a temporary hanging hook, or you can make one yourself out of a wire coat hanger. Make it into an s-shape and use it to hang the fixture to the j-box. Now both hands are free to assemble the wiring.

[@catherineveith-bruno2806]

What if you don’t have a ground wire?

[@markw6136]

Same question

[@geniferteal4178]

40 years ago I put a sensor light on my mom's porch. It's still works. if I had the replace it. I'd be lucky to get 5 years. It got creative and took the sensor and electronics and wired it into the existing fixture on the ceiling of the porch. All amounted was the sensor. Made for a nice sleek installation.

[@fazman6218]

Don't you want to use any silicone to cover the Left, Right, and Top edges of the mounting surface? Leave the bottom open so water can escape? I have seen a lot of folks get water intrusion and damage because they didn't have the gasket... but the backup of caulk around the edges made intrusion harder to occur. Also what about checking that wiring to see if it is correctly run inside EMT or other safe ways

[@adammorgan9304]

Wire nuts are fine. Wagos are just easier. As other commenters have mentioned you’ve got the connect the ground first and let the fixture hang. Then you can complete your wiring. But no doubt the wagos appear to be faster.

[@stevenmoomey2115]

The Two big mistakes I see on outdoor lighting, is this. The Flood Light has a “U” Bracket and a SJ Cord from the Light to junction box. The other one is 120 VAC String Lights for a Deck. Both are against Codes here. The reason Holiday Lights are permitted, is they are Temporary, add actually have time limits on them. You are allowed low voltage string lights and low voltage rope lights.

[@brianw3415]

You can use 550 cord to hang items while you do the wring.

[@douglasjohnson8917]

One new option if you only want motion detecting lights is the LED with the motion detector built into the light itself

[@jeffreyhansen1479]

Its a good practice too check the neutral and ground circuits for power also....

[@tomrussello809]

No gasket on the eufy fixture?

[@MichelLinschoten]

I love it how Americans talk about "code" violation. Their houses are made from 2x4's that aren't even 2x4's and cheap sheetrock we wouldn't even use in a shed. Not to mention the particle boarded siding. I remember when I bought my house in the USA. Cheap paperweight garbage

[@davidyansky6605]

The title says he's exposing mistakes so just for clarity it is not a mistake to use wire nuts just a preference. Wire nuts are still allowed in this application by code, they are just a little more difficult to work with. I've done a thousand of these with wire nuts over the years and never got a call back.

[@RealFauxMolder]

I went with a fatter junction box because the pancake box wouldn't easily contain my old-school wire nuts. I cringed when you were mounting the cam-light while connecting the hot wire but holding the neutral, regardless of the power being "off". Then I saw you had it pre-Wago'd. Might have dropped the square mount plate or cut it to match siding too. Clean. I've actually moved to solar-powered lights and cams this year except right at my doorways. Easier. No power source needed. Use a solar-battery charger mounted next to some to charge the charger via sunlight then re-charge the internal battery of light/cam once a week or so. No electricity required.

[@marvinostman522]

Nice video. You should make it a habit of connecting your ground first then your neutral and hot last. It assures that you have a positive connection to the panel before you hook up the hot despite the fact the power is off.

[@sogwatchman]

DON'T use Eufy cameras. They have major security issues and Anker flat out lied to several tech reviewers. The video streams are NOT end to end encrypted like they claim and pictures/video is cached openly on their servers which anyone can access (at least at the time this all came out). There are plenty of articles out there if you want to look into it.

[@RaffBuilding]

That was somewhat debunked: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5DVcot8lMenrKc

[@n9wox]

If your cameras are mounted outdoors, privacy isn't much of an issue. Also, Eufy recently encrypted their video stream.

[@ipcamtalk4314]

@@n9wox His point was that you can not trust those liars. Most folks also have indoor cams or backyard cams where they expect privacy. Most importantly how can you trust them to keep these IOT devices secure to prevent using them to access your other network devices? 99.9 percent of home users dont understand network isolation, vlans etc.

[@cakekomo]

They HAD an issue, and they did mislead/lie about it, but that has been fixed for awhile now.

[@CortexGaming]

If you want real security, build your own with hardware. Every company is doing something that isn’t right and doesn’t tell people

[@garbo8962]

Tip you never wear any kind of rings while performing work. Many years ago we had a foreman supervise in unloading a stack body truck. After we were finished unloading the truck he caught his metal wedding band on top of a stake and pulled his finger off. A few months ago read that a 4" pancake box with a romex connector is actually illegal because but it does not provide enough cubic inches for even a 14/2 piece of romex. While at a continuing education class the talented well respected electrical inspector told us that romex is never permitted to enter the rear of ANY outdoor electrical box because the NEC states that type NM cable ( romex ) is not approved for damp or wet location. Told bus to use UF cable.

[@johnhaller5851]

The bigger issue is the box rusting out, strike 1. I have up lights that constantly are hit by the irrigation system. They were originally lights marked that the were not to be pointed above horizontal. Strike 2. The box screws rusted themselves to the box, so those got replaced with anchors in the mortar surrounding the box. Plus, it’s NM cable feeding the box from the rear, so strike 3.

[@Capt-Intrepid]

PITA. Yes, It's a minor fire hazard. However, if the wall is inflammable (cement block for example) there is no risk.

[@stevejoos8953]

Your video contains incorrect, wrong, and misleading information that you need to fix/change ! At minutre-marker 4:40, you say: "You might want to turn to an exterior box such as this", then proceed to hold up a standard 4-inch weatherproof junction box. However! ALL of the new light fixtures (including the very one that you show ion your video) will NOT fit on the opening of a standard 4-inch "exterior" junction box. That is exactly WHY people (like me) find your video, just to find out that you are giving misleading/wrong info. Good that you pointed out the lack of the "pan cake box" (your words), but you don't say BOO about the mounting block (AKA: 'builders edge") shown on this persons house, where to get them, and the different kinds etc. This is the information people like me and many others need. Plus how/where to find a 'mounting block/builders edge' w/o a "step" on the back for lap siding. i.e. how does one mount these new-style larger fixtures to a house with lap siding, but want/need to mount it just on ONE lap siding strip? i.e. a house with lap siding that has a 6-8" revel (where the wire from the house comes out in the center of the 6-8" revel and can't be easily moved/re-routed ??

[@klaatubob]

ALWAYS do hot last, not before the neutral.

[@Longeno55]

Where can I obtain a vinyl mounting block?

[@paneerlovr]

My use case has a junction box but no mounting block, I need this too

[@davestir5743]

I would have removed the vinyl plate, then mounted the metal box after cutting the back vinyl, then put the plate back on over it. By surface mounting the metal pancake like this, the box isn't very firm in its mounting. since it isn't mounted on a flat surface it is on a angled surface. I also always put a wire nut on the hot when I have wires exposed regardless, someone can always go back through and turn on power and if you have all your wires tied together or touching while hanging, you can get a spark, less likely now with arc faults...but back in the day you could cause a fire. If you don't have a wire nut, electricians tape works, to just keep the hot covered, even while feeding through the pancake hole to get into the box. Always work like the wires are hot, safest tip to give.

[@jonesgang]

For all exterior devices I prefer water tight wire nuts when needed. The wago's are no more water tight than the standard wire nut.

[@mae2759]

Great timing! Was about to install a new fixture on my vinyl siding and need that mounting block!

[@Eddy63]

Good vid and info .... Wago's rule !!!✌

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

💯

[@1pcfred]

When Wagos first came out we used to make fun of an electrician that liked them. He sucked. Guy couldn't even wire up a 3 way switch. We called him, Wago Steve. Whenever we had to fix jobs he screwed up we'd say, And away we go! Good times.

[@brianerock]

Clearly an improvement by removing the violation of NO OUTLET BOX. But why is the center hole of the “pancake box” installed with NO CLOSURE? This improved installation nonetheless VIOLATES NEC® 314.19 by not fully enclosing the wiring cavity to protect combustible building materials from arcing if conductors ever work loose. 314.19 Boxes Enclosing Flush Devices or Flush Equipment. Boxes used to enclose flush devices or flush equipment shall be of such design that the devices or equipment will be COMPLETELY ENCLOSED on the BACK and sides, and substantial support for the devices or equipment will be provided. Screws for supporting the box shall not also be used to attach a device or equipment.

[@netdoctor1]

You had me until you hit Wago. Wire nuts will last to infinity. Do what you have to do to get a good connection with wire nuts. Temporarily suspend everything with s-hooks, maybe.

[@JamieE76]

Good tips! :)

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thank you 👍

[@cengeb]

Use wago connectors wire nuts are so obsolete

[@realvanman1]

It didn’t look like you ensured that the sheath of the non-metallic cable was secured by entering the connector by at least a quarter of an inch. But the vote down was for using Wagos instead of real wire connectors “wire nuts”. Outside especially!

[@ericw870]

Wire coming out of the wall looks like 12AWG. If it’s 14AWG you’re good, but it looks like 12AWG which cannot be used with pancake boxes per NEC. Per 2020 NEC 314.16, 3 12 AWG conductors require a total of 6.75 cubic inch box or larger, a 4” pancake box is only 6.0 cubic inches. While this pancake box is much better than no junction box at all, using a pancake box with 12 AWG wire is not code compliant and would not pass inspection.

[@vince6829]

Thank you for the video. Question: the wire fill issue associated with pancake boxes aside, are pancake boxes rated for outdoor use?

[@MrClaudio]

They're not, I think. I don't even think romex can be used outside (damp locations)

[@douglasjohnson8917]

And my area it is common to melt the security lights to the fascia it's also my experience that the motion-detecting units only last about 10 years

[@NS-YT1]

Hi Scotr - thanks for the great videos (they have been SUPER helpful for me as a DIY-er, and I’ve bought some of the Wago level nuts through your Amazon page after learning about them from you). Just a quick FYI, the company EUFY is pronounced “YOU-FEE” (it rhymes with “Goofy”, and that’s the way they pronounce it on their own KZbin channel - the end syllable isn’t a hard “i” sound, like in“Wi-Fi”). Anyway, keep up the great content and you’ll just keep getting more and more subscribers!

[@malanalan1]

Light trespass! This security light violates municipal code in my area! It has to point downwards NOT side-wards. That might be OK in PRC not in US.

[@d.k5908]

Wago Lever nuts suck. Have come across so many that the connections loosen and destroy LED power supplies from arching. They are right up there with Sharkbite plumbing fittings. Sounds good on paper, but a disaster in real life practice.

[@dolfinwriter5389]

I guess my house wasn't the only one with lights mounted by previous owners/original builders/shoddy contractors over the years, with no junction box AND poorly made wirenut connections that came apart in my hand when I removed the screws holding up the light!

[@TheNorthsquad]

Close, but no cigar, that's not to code you still have the same issue, but now behind the box you just installed. You should have Romex with intact sheathing coming into the box with a Romex connector, still a potential fire hazard, you have #14 wire pressed up against the siding by the box, a no, no.

[@kpertsev]

Great video, learned quite a bit. Something from my specialty: there are wifi cameras and there are security cameras. Wifi security cameras do not exist. The fact that they are called "security" means nothing now, because wifi jammers are $10-20 on aliexpress and every burglar has them. Only POE, only hardwired security cameras exist.

[@mansionlapalmamanager3997]

Don't mount a pancake box at 90 degrees always install them at 45 degrees. If mounted at 90 degrees there is a chance, depending on the fixture mounting screws, that the box screws will interfere with the fixture screws.

[@toddchapman3032]

Why not run the light fixture wires through the exterior sheeting to a junction box inside the garage?

[@BlueGillage]

Becsuse the light fixture would be crooked/angled because of the angle of the siding.

[@sg39g]

You explain the code violations but you have made TWO code violations. First, you have only entered the conductors into the junction box while the sheath must protrude inside the box. If the wire was too short, it should have been replaced. Second, you left a hole open on the box. You should have used a new junction box or installed a cover over the open hole.

[@steveurbach3093]

I've been known to use a shortened Bungee cord to act as a 3rd hand if I can loop or hook to the fixture.

[@marcosmota1094]

Many lights/fixtures have lanyards: use ‘em!

[@AdamLProductions]

Don't just test the "live" side. Some idiot could have wired it up backwards.

[@gordbaker896]

I did not see a coupling to protect insulation on wires passing through the new box. Long screws would achieve the same purpose without cutting the square plate. I Want my Security Stuff to be Visible.