Everything about Mamiya RZ67 & Digital Backs 2020

[@Ivandotjpeg]

Thanks to your videos, I’ve gone down the deep rabbit hole of digital backs. I’ve landed on an RZ67 pro, non II or IID. I have an existing Hasselblad H4X and 500CM. I messed around with the CFVII back on my 500CM and hated it. I just couldn’t get used to the massive crop. I then got a good deal on a P30 for my H4X, then a P25+. Fast forward to now, I got a sweet deal trading my CFV back for an IQ280, in H mount though, so I had an adapter 3D printed for RZ. The RZ system has totally blown my mind. The 140 macro lens alone, just amazing. So I’ve been using my P series backs, P30 and P45+ converted to infrared. The only cable I’m using is the phase one sync cable. I could easily use my H4X with the more modern lenses but using the rack and pinion focus system of the RZ67, to me has been more of the sweet spot. Thanks for shedding light on digital backs.

[@joestemmer4847]

Thanks Julio for another great video! Tons of information.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

joe stemmer my pleasure, hope it helps someone.

[@luissalazar2021]

Thanks for sharing, you are amazing and have lots of great ideas

[@admiralvontirpitz7115]

Hello Julio and congrats for another amazing and very informative video, I’m about to receive my RZ67 Pro II next week, which I plan to shoot with my P45+ (on a two shutter configuration for now, since it will need to be awaken at every shot). I have a question about metering: I will use the AE finder, but since in theory I won’t have any way to tell the camera the ISO used by the back since I’ll have only the synch cable, will be a light meter mandatory to get the correct exposure right?

[@marcelocampoamor4761]

IN REALITY, digital lenses have a coating to control the angle of incidence of the light that the sensor receives, because unlike the film that is totally flat, the sensors are 3D and therefore the angle determines that certain photons are well detected. and others don't. The rays are parallelized and therefore improves the contrast. And that happens with CMOS and CCD sensors. The real problem of loss of detail is not the bayer filter but the lowpass filter that is used to control the moire. Regarding color, the CCD definitely has an advantage. I still use a Minolta 7D from 2004 with only 6 Mp from time to time because of the more natural colors it produces compared to the others I use with CMOS sensors.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Nice thank you for your comment!

[@dongxu2059]

I was expecting a 10' video to help my decision making on buying a Rz67 and maybe one day adding a digital back... BUT what do I get? Literaly EVERYTHING from film grains in microscop to sensor designs. AWESOME!

[@bublt4me]

I skipped the sensor tech part but watched the rest. It's great and informative! Could you go over your tether workflow in a video?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Hey thanks, yeah no problem, if you already know how they work is probably not interesting. About the tether workflow it depends on what digital back you have, most use firewire cable, Aptus has their own cables, phase one uses a special one, IQ backs can do USB-3 too, some you need a power hub, some you will be ok as long as you keep the digital back's brightens low, the IQ backs keep the battery inside and use that battery to power the back, some other backs you have to remove the battery to connect the firewire and demand to have power from that, so yeah, is quite a topic.

[@bublt4me]

@@RyuuzakiJulio I wouldn't do it as an actual tutorial, but I think talking about how you benefit from using it instead shooting to a card. My back's tether function doesn't work, and it's a $2500 charge to fix it...

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Martin Tran why you say it doesn’t work? I mean, old backs I’ve used I had to tweak a few things to get it to work.

[@bublt4me]

@@RyuuzakiJulio it's plugged via FireWire, to a 65W USB hub. Camera charges but Capture One doesn't recognize a camera plugged in.

[@oopsydaisy74]

Julio, have you been paying attention to foveon sensors? Sigma is supposed to be launching their full frame foveon this year. I think this is as close as we can get today to ccd, other than old sensors. I’d be interested to know what you think.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

The pixel size cannot get smaller than 5microns, otherwise they will start to loose sensitivity to light. This sensors are one on top of the other on some silicon layers. Sounds like an interesting proposition to give you more megapixels on the same frame size of the sensor, but it really can't get much further than what we already have with CCDs, sensor gets light, gets measured and gets the output. So yeah, a 80mpx back will be now 250mpx, but do we really need that? I still think 80mpx is already too much (until I can do base iso 140 with Sensor + and get a 20mpx image) Maybe thanks to this the pixels could be larger, but isn't much difference to capture the pixel color on a grid or a layer. If they don't have amplifiers then it will be close to CCD, but we are still talking about just more megapixels of the same quality.

[@photosbyjosef]

By the way I'm keeping my Mamiya 645 system and definitely want to get a digital back set up for that as well. although I think I'm gonna have to change the camera body to a 645AFD mark iii

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

There is a bunch of 645 cameras, phase one started making them since a few years ago, I think their camera was actually just called 645 and it had a Phase One logo in the front, Joey Lawrance used that and got some cool shots, but even with the newest XF camera you still don't get the same workflow as a Nikon or Canon that are meant to just do quick and easy shoots. I rather learn to focus well on my RZ and forget about Seismographs, Wifi, Bluetooth, and all the other gimmicks that they want to sale me for 10's of thousands of dlls more. Get a decent size CCD sensor and call it a day, more lenses and same gear is what works best instead of trying to keep up with the new little features they want to sale you that have nothing to do with the quality of the image. If I need something like a remote timer trigger, I just made it, (actually selling it) my RZ Blue remote trigger gives features to the RZ that not even the XF camera has right now. Still have plans to do the Seismograph and other little mods. Of course there is a use case for every type of photography. But for me, the RZ covers all my photographic needs. Events and other little quick and easy shoots, I might as well just use my iPhone, no need for that high quality.

[@thecooldude71]

Thank you so much for another informative video!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

No no, thank you for watching and sorry it was too long.

[@thecooldude71]

@@RyuuzakiJulio it's no problem that it was long! Honestly the longer the video the better. I'm grateful with all the information we can get. It's fun hearing about digital backs, especially on the RZ

[@AlexanderNVIDIA]

Thank you so much, Julio, for spending your time to make such great in-depth of information about the science between film and digital sensors and the digital backs for Mamiya RZ67. Currently, I'm owning an RB67 and thinking of if there are any possibilities to attach a PhaseOne digital back on it.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

You could definitely use a digital back on anything with a lens and a hole on the back, you can even put a digital back on a pinhole shoebox, the problem is that you do need to get an adapter for it, and as far as I know, the RB doesn't have any available rotating adapter, which is annoying. You would really benefit from doing the RB -> RZ upgrade before jumping to medium format digital, also the Pro II will give you the super useful Fine Focus knob that you will definitively need if you want to nail those focus better, so far FILM will not give you the insane detail that digital can give you, and it tends to be a little more forgiving on the focus, but digital you will notice right away what is and is not on focus. Also your base iso will be mostly under 100, so if you are using Portra 160 or so, you will be used to way higher iso than a digital back can give you, so you will have to open more the aperture and with it, the depth of field will be just more shallow than ever. So yeah, jump to the RZ67 Pro II will be an absolute recommendation before thinking in a Digital back.

[@michaelabio]

I saw it all and it didnt feel like one hour :) yeah, because I want to migrate into mediumfilmformat and hopefully add a digital back - so very useful information. especially about the cmos sensor..

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Im happy it help you! Welcome to MF world

[@michaelabio]

@@RyuuzakiJulio I just found a Leaf, Aptus 75 33 megapixels - its with H hasselblad mount - do you think its okay? and can you recomend any adapters for RZ ? Thanks

[@sergeleephoto]

Hi Julio! Thank you for this video! Which cabel do I need for Credo80 and RZ67 ProII? I also have HX701 adapter, but without cabel it doesn't work( Thank you!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Serge Lee Photography I believe is the same as phase one backs.

[@photosbyjosef]

Absolutely great thank you so very much look forward to speaking with you again soon and I'm about to purchase a phase one system. Would love to see about hind the scenes video of you doing an actual photo shoot of course with images

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

I do have a few videos with images of behind the scenes on some photoshoots. But since I moved to Japan its hard for me to assemble a creative team to help me capture the behind the scenes so its become a little more difficult than it was before. But I always keep in mind making those behind the scenes videos.

[@Being_Joe]

Man Julio, this is a lot of great info. I'm looking at getting a RB or RZ and leaning towards the RZ. When it comes to digital backs is there a reason to go with either the RZ67 or Pro II versions?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Yeah I think I mentioned on another video. Half step speeds, and because of the crop on the view by the smaller than 6x7 sensors, you will have harder time to focus, so the Pro II's fine focus knob is a gamechanger.

[@ilayishN]

Hi Julio! Thanks so much for these RZ and MF digital back videos - Really amazing and unique resource. Truly one of a kind! I had a question - I see the sensor size for IQ160/180 is larger than the IQ140 - Does this effect the crop factor? One thing I realised when I started to look into MFD backs for the RZ is that they all crop into the lovely 6X7 format. So are there any differences in the crop factor between those three IQ1xx, and/or are there any other backs that crop less?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

ilayishN there is no back that has a 6x7 sensor. There are all kinds of shapes, even square sensors. And all will make your images look zoomed

[@joaolima2001]

Hello Julio. I m a professional photograher , mainly I take portraits to magazines here in Portugal. Would you recomend medium format to me? Is the hasselblad h3d good enough to start with?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Joao Lima not really, maintaining and obtaining new lenses is stupid expensive

[@alanlackey3949]

thanks legend, peace bro, much love to u

[@lilianarocha8483]

Hi Julio, thanks for the great video. It's long, but all the information is precious. I have a mamiya rz67 pro II and am looking forward to go digital with it. I was checking the adapters and from what I understand to use the Phase One 70994 we need to make 2 small notches in the camera body and we will no longer be able to use film cassette. Is this correct? And with Mamiya Hx705 or Hx701? Does the same happen? Thanks again for the precious information you shared.

[@adnetage]

I've got a RZ67 II Pro with a PhaseOne 30+ digital back for M645 mount. I picked up an adapter from LensMod for $200 and everything's been working smoothly except for two-shot mode. I've tried everything I can think of for single shot mode, but I can't figure it out. Is there any way to set the P30+ for single shot?"

[@timchristokat9978]

Hi Julio, great video. Thank you for the indepth review. Are the HX071 and HX071 H-mount adapters? I am still somewhat confused about the V and H mount differences.

[@davidselby976]

Your videos are a mine of information- thanks

[@puertografias]

Thanks I just saw it completely

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Alvin Couto de Jesus hope it helped

[@SkALaXNiKoTiNe]

Hello, thanks for your infos. i love the look of the mamiya rz67 and hesitate to invest into a system like this. I have a sony a7iii that i like but for landscape i found it not enough resolution. i need to crop almost all images for instagram and so, and i want to print big,,. I am not shure how much i would benefit if i buy an old pro ii (d) and a digital back today in 2020 considering the other options available. Buying an rz67 pro ii d with a lens is about 2000$ today and then a good digital back is at least 3000$ it would cost me about 5000$ for a camera that has max 1/400 shutterspeed. Also CDD Sensors are good for studio at base ISO but less good at ISO performance more than 400. I heard that sony stop to make CCD Sensors in the future. My other options would be a hasselblad H5d-40 (CCD Sensor) is about 4000$-6000$ with a lens, but more capabilities body wise. Or the newer Hasselblad X1d ii 50c or the Fuji system, all being CMOS Sensors. Actually my real question to you is; Can you make a video where you compare your system vs a sony a7riii for example or against some other medium format systems? Would be helpful to see what the difference is, to decide if i should change my system or just upgrade to another sony camera

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

ScALa-Films great question. Well I would not go for CMOS sensor, not even with their 50 Mpx or 150mpx they have now. The quality can’t compare to the CCD sensors. I don’t have access to the A7iii but I do work with retouching photos from a camera like that, but the photographers like to keep their iso over 400 and 800 so is never pretty. The max sync speed is 400 yes, but since it’s a leaf shutter speed is not like the speeds you get on DSLR. For the DSLR to make speeds up to 8000 and so, they use a curtain system of exposure. There are two blinds that open and close to create your exposure, most DSLRs have a max speed of 160 or 250, this is when both of the blinds are completely open. Speeds higher than that only means that before blind # 1 is completely open blind # 2 is already starting to close up. So basically you get a “scanning” effect to get the speed you want. So curtain 1 opens 20% and curtain 2 is already closing at 10% so your exposure is just a thin opening of 10% that passes trough your sensor. The RZ doesn’t have this curtains so the 1/400 is a full exposure of 1/400. I would not recommend to go for the Pro IID since it just really saves you a 20 dlls cable. I use a Pro II with an IQ180 and I get insane shoots. You could google to see what photos people gets with that back. In reality digital backs cost what they do (from 1k to 30k) but with 2-3 k you are already getting an epic back that used to cost over 20K on their good days. The camera itself can be just a box with a needle hole. The more fancy the camera gets the more “features” you can play with, like auto focus or auto stack photos or seismograph or digital leveling or auto exposure, but all those are just gimmicks. I don’t really shoot that much landscapes but I do have a couple of shoots. I’m happy to send you raws if you want to see some. Then you can compare. Hit me up on Facebook or Instagram or anywhere where I can send you some files.

[@SkALaXNiKoTiNe]

@@RyuuzakiJulio sounds great. I would like to have the iq180 too but at the moment these are pretty expensive (about 7000$ used). I would rather go for an iq140 or the p version seems less expensive but i guess is the old version. Yes i would like to see some raw pictures but i don't have capture one for now. Not shure if i can open them on lightroom or photoshop. You can send me per wetransfer on instagram win_visuals. Thanks

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Yes you would need to get the Capture One software and activate it as free, but for this you need to make an account with Phase One and register a digital back with its serial number to get the free activation thingy. Or maybe they have a trial account. Anyway I could just send you full size jpegs. I’ll look for your Instagram and follow you. Cheers!

[@thecooldude71]

Got A DM40. Thanks Julio!

[@Siconn1]

I've just already found you, and I liked your honesty on everything. Could you review differences between dslr and mirrorless and what you prefer? Thanks and still on it Ryuuzaki!

[@federicofiorenzani]

Hi, Julio, i love your video about Mamiya RZ... I have one too, but the first model, no II, could I mount a digital back??? I don't find too much information about this...

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Sorry I didn’t saw this message till today. Yeah it can I believe. Not sure about if the adaptors I mentioned work also for the normal pro but I would think they do.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Reason being that the film backs meant for the pro also work on the pro II so maybe the mounting is the same. But then again, a film back for the pro II won’t work on the pro model. So 🤔 someone would need to test that.

[@verezworkshop1483]

Great job! I was certified for Phase One/Capture One last year so some of this was familiar (except maybe they pushed their newer backs over the CCD). I hope to continue school in the fall if this pandemic allows, and I too had been looking for a film/digital compromise. Lately i shoot both. My film camera of choice is the rb67 pro s. My question: can I still use backs if I use sync cable? I see little info online but I seem to recall that it’s possible with a Hasselblad V back (and adapter). I suppose I could get a body and upgrade lenses slowly. Anyway any input welcomed! Thanks and stay safe!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Indeed there is a V mount adapter for the RZ, not sure about the RB, but digital backs just need the trigger signal, you could put your digital back on a shoe box with a needle hole (pinhole camera) and use a switch to trigger the exposure, so as long as there is a way to hold the back and to give it a signal, most of digital backs will work in any camera. Some of them do need the communication to the camera like the H mounts but that's about it. Thats so cool that you got certified by Phase One, I am sure they are trying to push their CMOS sensor more, is cheaper to make, it gives away decent pixels and it works great with low light, long exposures, and speed. Sadly the quality is not the same as an CCD sensor, but I understand that CCD sensors are more difficult, expensive to make, and people keeps demanding for speed and low noise on dark areas and longer exposures. So is obvious that they will offer CMOS sensor option for those photographers. But truth be told, the quality is the same as a Nikon or Canon or Sony camera, is just more of the same. One of my videos I have a download of a raw file from one of my shoots for people who wants to see a RAW file of CCD. No doubt is mind blowing.

[@torrolfjohansen]

Hi @RyuuzakiJulio I’ve been looking online for a used Mamiya HX701 Digital Back Adapter Plate (you mentioned you got yours for $900?). I’m seeing them priced at $2,000 USD +!!! Do you know of any other place / resource where I could buy one for less?

[@Yulfi]

So, an RZ67 pro II would work best with a CCD sensor and an HX-705 adapter; did I get that right? Is the Leaf Aptus II 12 a CCD sensor?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

🤔 it would also work with CMOS sensors of course but you get the same image quality of a Nikon or Canon on a larger file, (just more pixels of the same), you do get better iso range with less noise tho. I would recommend a CCD if you aren’t shooting on low light or don’t need the high speeds for sports or wild life. Yes HX-705 is best for Pro II, but sometimes it’s more expensive or same price than the HX-701. Is also harder to find. So I wouldn’t refuse a HX-701 if you actually find one under 1200 dlls. Leaf Aptus II 12 is a CCD sensor. Actually the biggest on the market but you don’t get Sensor+ of Phase One P+ and IQ digital backs. So in my option the best possible digital back for the Pro II is an IQ160 (for larger pixels) or IQ180 (for more pixels) both sensors super large and the biggest on the market for many years now. Hope it helps! Thanks for watching this horrible long video.

[@Yulfi]

@@RyuuzakiJulio Thank you for the detailed response. It's hard to find good videos on niche-products like the ones you covered, so don't worry about it being long because you provided great value in exchange for our time. I've watched some of your other videos on the R67 and digital backs. I shoot Mamiya 7 and Rolleiflex 2.8e III. I've been shooting portraits for local models and non-models on film, but I'm now transitioning into the commercial and editorial photography industry; I know my future clients will want me to shoot tethered-digital. As for why I want to go medium format; I just have an affinity for the medium format aesthetic and always have. I'm stuck between buying the R67 pro II D and the Mamiya 645DF+. Any thoughts?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Citizen Yülfi always controlled environments. Mostly studio. RZ. If you are going to be chasing brides or cars or kids playing sports. The 645

[@adayoff33]

WOW Dude! You are so Freaking Smart. I so needed to know this. I'm so curious about how electrocis work especially when it come to digital and film cameras. I often take video cameras and digital cameras apart to see what's going on inside them and it amazes me how far we have come in such a short time with the technology we've designed and the machines to make these digital devices. How small these things are. DVD tech is amazing with the small lasers and the mirrors and prisms. It's crazy that our eyes and how they work are just like pin hole box cameras you make when your a kid. It's do simple and pricise it's all about information traveling on the beams of light. Like star Light traveling through time and space and when we see them in our night sky those stars may not even exist any more. WILD!!! Anyway, thanks for doing this video.

[@antonioharrison9863]

I’ve found the HX-105 adapters.let me know if you still need them !

[@danielrois4548]

I'm definitely interested and need one. How much?

[@Camaro-it8ht]

Thanks for the video. I want a first digital medium format and I found a Mamiya 645DF+ 80LS 2.8 with Leaf Credo 60 (53.7 x 40.4 mm) with 84000 shutter actuations, with case, battery grip, extra batteries, for 3000€ (390.000 yens). It is worth it at this price and day and age? I would like to shoot mostly outside with natural light, not inside studio. Thank you.

[@HannahSkyePhoto]

Is it possible to add a digital back to a regular RZ67? Not the Pro or Pro II, just the regular model.

[@pdiseris]

yes you can

[@huuquynh603]

Hi Julio, can you tell me where can I buy tether cable to connect digital back to computer please? Thank you.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Camera store? EBay ?

[@D_L_J_83]

What cable do you use for your RZ 67 and your phase one back? Do you need to “wake up” the camera before you fire/trigger the shutter?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Phase One Sync Cable, their backs use an exclusive multi pin connector that goes to the PC Sync of the camera lens. No I don't need to wake it up.

[@barton6462]

@@RyuuzakiJulio It's an 8 pin connector plug into the Phase One IQ side socket and the cable then goes to the smaller connector into the lens of the Mamiya. Is that correct? It would also be good to know who actually makes the 8 pin female connector plug and the plug into the lens so we could make up our own cables to the perfect length!

[@claireletitia]

Hey Julio, thank you. Do you know if the Mamiya original Rz67 Professional 1982 can be used with the digital back? Thank you

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

I’ve heard it can. But not sure about what adapters you can use with that one. As long as it has a way to send the x-sync trigger signal even a shoe box camera can use a digital back. The problem is if there is any adapters for the normal RZ67

[@claireletitia]

Thanks Julio 🌝, I read that it takes the same adapter as ProII .. with the V hassledblad mount. Really love this camera and don’t want it to become a paper weight... but whether or not to invest is a big question 🤷🏻‍♀️ great video btw 😘

[@thecooldude71]

So is it possible to use an IQ3 or IQ4 modern Hasselblad or phase one digital backs on the RZ67 PRO IID?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Anything as long as you can get the adapter for it. I haven't seen any H type adapters for the RZ tho. Recommended are M type mounts.

[@photosbyjosef]

Hello there. How are you doing with all this Corona virus stuff? I hope you are healthy safe and happy. I can tell you it's pretty crazy here in metro New York City

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Yeah I see the news about NY, how bad is for people? Here we are just getting started, yesterday they just announced "state of emergency" which is not a lockdown but just the government recognizing that there is an issue in the country and they selected few cities to ASK people to stay home and companies to send workers to work from home IF possible, not order, just suggestion. If the spread don't go down then they will take more strong measures, but they are giving the population the benefit of the doubt into how they will react to take care of the virus by themselves. So the government does give you the freedom to go out if you want to but is asking you to be more careful, so they are letting the people decide if they want to be careful or not. But that's just for now. Japanese law is different than USA or other countries, human rights and privacy rights here are much more stronger than other countries.

[@photosbyjosef]

@@RyuuzakiJulio It's completely crazy here it's like living in a movie. Everything has been shut down for weeks and weeks and stores do not have a lot of the every day essentials. Toilet paper, bottled water, chicken, meat, paper towel You are only allowed to buy 2 of any of those and they run out of stock quickly. It's like being stuck in a bed dream that you can't wake up from. Have on my being out of the house once to go to the store since March 11th

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

George Photos by Josef That does sound pretty harsh, but we are used to see movies about this type of situations. What I can completely asure you is that they can’t hold down an economy for too long like this, its hurting the goverment and its economy way more than a single person. So it definitively has an expiration date. I would take this time to learn something new, or do a lot more online network for sure. Is not forever, look at Wuhan, it really semed like the end of the world for them, but now they are back out. Lets just hope that when people has the OK to go out, they know how to behave and respect the rules of higiene and protection for a lot longer. Many of this protocols should be just part of normal lifestyle, just like washing your hands after going to the toilet or before going to eat. Thats why Japanese people uses masks most of the time. It has been part of their culture for many years now. But if you wear a mask on another country it was considered even an act of agression towards other people. I even got called off by police because I was wearing a mask on Los Angeles, they where questioning me what I was doing, blablabla. Because I look suspicious wearing a mask....

[@photosbyjosef]

@@RyuuzakiJulio Yeah we have a lot of new cases everyday here and haven't reached the Apex yet lots and lots of people dying pictures of dead bodies in black garbage bags lined up and piled up as if they were waiting for the garbage truck. Pretty scary to say the least. I still haven't purchased they digital back for my Mamiya 645 super yet. Seems like it's too difficult to make this model digital and it'll be easier for me to just get an AFD body or a phase one body so then I can still use my collection of mamiya lenses. I absolutely love their lenses.

[@photosbyjosef]

@@RyuuzakiJulio If I do decide to just buy a back and put it on my 645 super do you have a digital back recommendation and will I need one sync cable or to? I think I can use 1 if I shoot in live view mode

[@TylerCordaro]

great video thanks

[@obscurazone]

Its 2024 when I'm watching this, and now basically impossible to shoot with an RB or RZ67 digitally, unless you want to shoot with a Hasselblad back. The adaptors for any leaf/phase back are simply impossible to get, and the very few that are available, are being sold by vultures for $3k - absolutely insane. Why on earth no third party has jumped on making these is bonkers. Someone would make a fortune making these adaptor plates. So yeah. WELL DONE to all of you who got a plate when these were still all being manufactured and didn't cost the price of a car. To the rest of us mortals, we are stuck with film. Also, wtf is the point of the pro iiD, if we STILL are required to buy this stupid adaptor! It's beyond infuriating that the fuggen camera was "designed" with digital backs in mind, yet they didnt bloody ship them with the adapter OR have some sort of design element built into the camera that accommodates any digital back. It seems like the only advantage of getting the pro iiD over the pro ii is simply that you don't need a cable. Whoopie do Mamiya! Great video and thanks, really loving watching your channel and going through all this, but it really feels like a dead end now, and ALL because of the stupid bit of plastic that is the adapter plate. A truly ridiculous situation in all honesty but it is what it is. If I were you, Id try and hook up with some clever folks in Tokyo and start making some ;-) hint

[@cloggedaorta]

Film is not only expensive but it is also an environmental disaster to produce and to develop. With more and more hipsters getting into analog photography in the past 10 years it's time we find a compromise between medium format and digital. We're the new generation for gods sake, let's act like it.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Ohhh 😮 the first eco-friendly message I’ve ever got! 😂 love it! I think the more our generation understands how photons work on elements, the less fake they will see digital. Being digital is just being quantified by sensitive elements and measuring their electron energy fluctuations. That is way more close to reality than oxidizing random sized light sensitive powder between different colored plastic layers.

[@cloggedaorta]

@@RyuuzakiJulio This was a great video, I watched all of it and probably will watch some portions again and again as I research more about the topic. But yea, we need more information about digital backs out there and root for/support companies that invest in medium format so that prices keep getting down. I almost bought a Pentax 645Z but the sensor size just kills me, not enough to compare with real medium format. But your analysis is spot on, the digital way we interpret images with sensors is closer to how the human eye works (turning light into electric signals) than film. Some in the film community feel they need to be purists to set themselves apart and ignore the science behind it.