Everything you every Wanted to Know About Check Valves but were Afraid to Ask

Everything you ever wanted to know about check valves but were afraid to ask.
In this episode THE Guru wants to help you understand the ways tank/in tank check valves are sized and the different types of connections that you may have from you compressor. THE Guru also explains the 2 ways a Check valve fails.
You may contact THE Guru through the link below. we have a free shipping policy on intank check valves
thecompressorguru.com
IR part numbers, 85582229, 32499766, 85582286, 54368154,
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[@ActinOut]

Very helpful video. Youre the first person that has noted that oil compressors can make a check valve get stuck closed. I''ve got a Coleman powermate 27 gal 5hp oil belt driven compressor that only builds up to between 60 and 65 lbs before it stops and the motor has a slight buzz, at which point i turn off the compressor to prevent motor damage. From about 50lbs of pressure the belt starts to slow until it reaches the 60 to 65 and can no longer turn. Startup from an empty tank and continued running has no problems, though it seems that periodically, as pressure builds, the start capacitor reingages on occasion. I've opened the head and the reeds are intact, the piston bore is smooth with no apparent seal problems and both head gaskets have been replaced. The relief valve is not leaking, but because it never reaches full pressure it doesn't do a pressure relief as compressors do when they reach max pressure & turn off. I hear no leaking unless I turn the switch off after stalling and then try to restart it again at the stall pressure and then only slightly. But it only tries to turn before stalling again. I've loosened the hose above from the check valve to the compressor to the point of completely undoing it and there's no air coming out. If I drain the tank, it starts up no problem. Is it possible that the check valve is only opening initially/partially to let air in the tank but after the pressure gets to the 60/65 lbs pressure, it forces the valve closed strong enough that the compressor cant continue to push air in? This would be curious too to me because I would think that the relief valve would then start leaking the air the compressor is trying to feed the tank - but could the fact that it hasn't reached full pressure prevent the relief valve from letting the air out? So the back pressure is preventing the compressor from pumping air? But if this were true...wouldn't I get a release of pressure when I loosen the hose from the check valve? Anyway... I feel like I've checked everything and it all looks good, but it can't get above that 60/65 lbs pressure. What do you think could be wrong?

[@THECompressorGuru]

actinout lets start with the simple place to start. it slows down and stops at 60 psi does the motor stop or just the pump? the very first thing to look at is how tight is the belt??? it should be about as tight as the alternator belt on your car. I read the rest of the post and I am guessing you have really overthought this. check the belt/s . you can contact me through thecompressorguru.com. and I will email you back. if it is a loose belt reply here also. thanks Bud

[@ActinOut]

@@THECompressorGuru belt tension verified. Both motor and compressor slow to a stop in unison. I emailed a reply per your request as well.

[@bryomuch]

its okay 2:01😂😂

[@swordfish1120]

Can a load genie be replaced with a conventional check valve if I replace the switch with one that has the 1/4" unloader nipple on it? My old Speedaire doesn't even have a switch. It just plugs in and goes. I like it because it's a quiet oil pump type so I'm hoping to save it. The noise coming off the load genie sounds like a blown rod bearing on a car.

[@THECompressorGuru]

this gives me lots of questions? contact me through thecompressorguru.com . i can't wrap my head around an electric compressor with out a pressure switch.😯

[@Mistadoblinas]

❤

[@Mygames627]

My question is can a check valve cause the compressor not to reach full pressure? It's not leaking meaning I can't hear any air leaking.

[@THECompressorGuru]

Probably not. its there for other reasons. are your belts Tight?

[@byronwoolfrey1039]

Had a bad check valve and replaced it. Now the compressor pumps up the pressure to 125lbs but over a 3 to 4 hour period it leaks back to 110lbs then it stays there. Was wondering if i took it apart and stretched the spring a little then would that help. Where i live i can't just run down to the store and get another. I had a problem gett this one, took me a month. Found one in Florida...... I live in Canada.

[@BudStiner]

I would n't do it , My question is is your system tight? a bad check valve when bad will cause many different problem this 3-4 hr leak down I would be ok with.

[@byronwoolfrey1039]

@@BudStiner I'll get out some soapy water and spray it down. What puzzles me is once it gets back to 110lbs it stops leaking and the download valve doesn't appear to be leaking

[@kcmopc]

my Quincy 325 doesnt have one of those!

[@THECompressorGuru]

many quincy's do not . I am a firm believer all compressors work better with a tank CV

[@paulhammons53]

So I have a question. If I were plumbing in a second air compressor would I have to put this check valve specifically on the tank? It already has a check valve on the tank (The one that is already factory plumbed into my tank to unload the 1st compressor). Then the real question is can I place this check valve to a closer location to the pressure switch, like say right off of my discharge hose from the second air compressor? I want to unload the second compressor as well.

[@THECompressorGuru]

the intank check valves are to keep the air in the tank and not going back to the compressor this makes for easier starting of the compressor when the pressure switch closes . I think your question is can you put a line check valve between the tanks. I have done that specifically we had a 2 stage machine(175 PSI) and a single stage machine (120PSI) the single was the secondary machine and only came on when the primary machine could not keep up with the demand. the problem fell into the single stage tank was only rated for 150 PSI so we had to stop the air from the 2 stage back feeding the single stage we did that with a check valve coming off the tank to the system of the single stage. I hope that made things clear... as mud? if you want you may contact me through thecompressorguru.com interesting question.

[@paulhammons53]

Yes very clear I appreciate you! I do want to ask a bit further. With this setup did you have to drill and tap a hole somewhere in the line to give the pressure switch the pressure that it needed to know when to cut in and out? Does anyone make a line check that has a hole already for the tubing connecting the pressure switch? If you answer those questions you will have answered everything! Thanks Guru!

[@THECompressorGuru]

@@paulhammons53 to the first question, no each compressor has its own pressure switch and all the check valve did was to keep the High pressure from flowing to the low pressure tank. to the second question. yes I have those check valves on my web page thecompressorguru.com. glad to help Bud

[@thedavesofourlives1]

it hurts to watch, stretched video aspect.... UGGGGGG

[@THECompressorGuru]

thank you for your input