Everything You Need to Know About the Chinese Diesel Heater - MY SHOP IS WARM! 🔥

[@MkmeOrg]

Heater on Amazon: amzn.to/3POEcFX Heater on Vevor (cheaper) shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1508656&u=3336141&m=95592&urllink=&afftrack= Exhaust wrap I used: amzn.to/3BVnUFI 90 degree air duct amzn.to/3VcCzmM Fuel transfer pump (I own 3 and they are GREAT) amzn.to/3hJp3td 180W power supply (15 amps) amzn.to/3GfJreZ

[@oliver90owner]

The bad news: There isn’t an 8kW heater on that site. They lie. Work out the time, with your maximum pump Hz, to use a full tank. 5 litres of diesel contains about 53kWh. That should keep it going for only 5 1/2 hours (assuming that efficiency might be about 80%). I expect your tankful would last over 10 hours.🙂 These heaters are good, all the same. Just don’t believe all the Chinese tell you. I hope you mains supply does not fail. These heaters, on shut-down, run the fan until the heat exchanger is down to a safe temperature (so the motherboard, attached to the heat exchanger, is neither damaged nor destroyed). Battery operation was what they were designed for, even if the mains is connected all the time. I use a battery and float charger - battery is never greatly discharged while the mains is connected - and the battery would keep the heater running in the event of mains failure (either until the mains is reconnected or until the heater shuts down, in its usual way, when the battery voltage reaches a certain minimum level.

[@MkmeOrg]

Never once mentioned the KW output being accurate.

[@oliver90owner]

@@MkmeOrg Correct. But your link took me, almost directly, to vevor 8kW heaters. Therefore, I expect it takes everyone else to that same lie.🙂 You most certainly did not mention this little lie in your video (If you were aware of it, even). That means unless told otherwise the multitudes (who follow your link) may well finish up buying something that is not quite what they thought it would be. Now that definitely would be bad news for them - wouldn’t it? All I have done is brought these lies out into the open, so that any, that see these links, knows the truth. If they then carry on and assume, without checking further, that their shiny new heater provides 8kW of hot air, that is entirely their own fault.🙂 These heaters are (or can be) good. There is no good reason for the Chinese to lie about their product - but they do. Why do you think that is the case and do you condone it? Edited to add that you might get some real honest enlightenment by watching the you tube channel called “lowered expectations” where he basically gets in trouble fairly quickly , but at least he is an honest guy - even if he doesn’t yet understand that the heaters with these cheap controllers is what is giving him strife. That and reports from lots of users that perhaps are not telling the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth. Have a good day.

[@jeffokriya3389]

What´s the room temp before and after ? Good Video.

[@jetmechanic100]

The intake with the filter is the "combustion intake". It's the air to be mixed with fuel and burned not the intake for conditioned air. Seems alot of folks miss this.

[@MkmeOrg]

Im well aware and mentioned that

[@theoldhobbit3640]

I'm at that "should I or shouldn't I" stage in terms of buying one of these heaters. There is so much information out there, some good, some bad and unfortunately some that contradicts each other. I do not have a workshop so the purpose is to supplement domestic heating if at all possible. I am not talking about the whole house, I'm talking about one room living room with the unit mounted outside. Of course with the cost of diesel going up all the time, when will it become too expensive to run. Great video and thank you for taking the time to share it with us. HNY....

[@isickofit]

Fitted my workshop with one. What a difference. Mine ran rich on a bungled startup and fumes came out of the air intake, so I mounted it outside. Makes little or no difference, and feels better..

[@lwwarren]

Someone may have already mentioned this but you should move the power supply to the intake side of the wall. They lose efficiency and life expectancy quickly when "over" heated and having it right above the heat output probably won't be great for its life expectancy.

[@kenputer56]

I suggest connecting to a 12 volt battery and a battery charger in case the power goes down , then it can do a proper shut down if the grid goes out and the battery voltage gets low.

[@RGD-Audio-Repairs]

I received my diesel heater today, identical to this one.... I too, have been watching all the videos on them, and seen that the soft tubes are terrible and should be replaced.... Luckily when i unboxed my heater today, it had the hard-line fuel pipes already in it, along with a fuel filter :) Win Win.... I do wish the warm air duct was a little longer though! As ive built a wooden lidden box for it to sit outside, behind my workshop, and drill a hole in the wall for the air duct... But its not very long haha Ive also ordered a roll of wire, So i can cut and extend the wiring to the control panel display.. So that i can have that on the wall in my workshop..

[@JasonStright]

Get video and nice heater I've seen a few KZbin using them for bus conversion for rv use . Great to see you are catching up on some Yellowstone too

[@StevenKiberton]

I also bought the same power supply but mine did not last a week. I since replaced it with a bigger one.

[@siskiyouwoodsman4279]

If you have even occasional power outages, I would recommend integrating a lawn tractor size battery to your build. The reason is if you lose power even for a second, the heater will shut off hot with no way to cool down as happens under a normal shutdown. This often results in fatal damage to the controller board housed in the plastic housing of the heater and of coarse the possibility of fire with a plastic fuel tank sitting over the heater. I have the same exact heater and I also added a battery tender to the mix and adjusted the power supply to about 12.5v so as not to overcharge the battery. The power supplied to the heater will float between the battery and the inverter depending on the state of charge of the battery and the amp draw when the glow plug is in operation. I’ve been very happy with mine for three years now with no troubles. Oh and one other improvement was adding a chainsaw fuel filter to the supply line in the tank as unbelievably it was unfiltered.

[@MkmeOrg]

Not sure how hot you think the heat exchanger is but a single shutdown and heat soak is nowhere near enough to destroy the board and not even in the same galaxy as melting the fuel tank. Good idea to have a battery to spin down and cool cycle but not the end of the world if it has a shutoff. Just not desirable. Sorry

[@Moffy1961]

Finally someone willing to discuss the exhaust through a shop wall! I know you didn't want to get into it too much but I agree with what it appears you did. I am going to take a large soup can, remove then ends with a smooth edge can opener and stuff it with fire retardant wool plus have the pipe wrapped. I can keep it centred by re-attaching the lid on the outside end with a smaller hole for the exhaust. Kind of create my own DIY wall thimble if you know what I mean. Need to test my theory, but that's what I am thinking. Great video by the way!

[@Moffy1961]

Oh, and I have one of those fuel transfer pumps - they are invaluable!!!

[@MkmeOrg]

Yeah I cant be bothered to debate with people on the exhaust. I tested to see just how hot it was compared to my combustibles and was not surprised. The suspension in the metal vent keeps the distance and the slat supports stay cool from air contact on all sides. The exhaust wrap is just to keep the cold air out and not be combustible. The alum tape holds it nicely, looks decent and also not combustible. Its overkill but safe.

[@heidislz]

yes, indeed! Please vent through a wall, not a floor or ceiling. Makes so much more sense. After all, this is a diesel engine no matter how small and EGT's are real. Maybe a tiny pyrometer? ;)

[@kevinhackett7138]

mines a baked bean can as well..

[@tundramanq]

If they offered a brush less fan motor it would be great.The brushes and the commutator bars in brush motors will wear out after a year or so in high run time use.

[@MkmeOrg]

A good brushless DC motor with high quality ball bearings + good quality fuel filter in front of the pump would have this last almost indefinitely.

[@heidislz]

4 minutes in to your video and you have already answered all the questions I asked on other channels! thank you so much!

[@grabir01]

Run a copper tubing lattice until the exhaust temp is near or at ambient and then exhaust it out your wall and gain even more heat.

[@StevenKiberton]

I have also just done the same thing to my workshop. It really does make a difference. Keep up the awesome work Eric and Happy Holidays

[@MkmeOrg]

Thanks Bud. Hope the holidays treat you great and you get some time to play in the shop. Cheers

[@user-st5rc9nz4j]

Does room air blow across the outside of the finned combustion chamber. And hot air into the room??

[@OH8STN]

I think I'll put one of these in my workshop as well Eric. I was just talking about it with my wife a couple of days ago. Your video is perfect timing. Thanks for sharing brother. Merry Christmas.

[@MkmeOrg]

For the price they can't be beat. As long as one has proper expectations since its 10% the cost of its name-brand counterparts. We are in full blizzard today and I just clicked the remote from the house and it will be toasty by the time I head out. Game changer :) Thanks for the kind words and support. All the best to you this holiday season. Cheers brother.

[@andrewscotti1136]

these dont last long esp running on a low setting if using them often. the older they get the less reliable they are be it to dirty to light or pump lets go or plug decided to quit. i noticed after 2 or 3 clean outs they need to be replaced. even replacing the plug and heat screen does not guarantee functionality as they age. they are cheap enough to grab a new one every yr tho which is nice. i could get around 2yrs reliable out of em with a cleaning or two in between.

[@FixitEasyDIY]

Thanks for the nice video 😊

[@maxentemask]

You can do an exhaust pipe expander in zig - zag shape from some cooper pipe before getting out the smoke. In that way you can recover inside workshop some of the heat that you are trowing away without it.

[@Moffy1961]

I watched a guy on KZbin from I believe Australia, who has done a ton of research on the original documentation from where these heaters were copied. He says the max bend in exhaust is 270 degrees or else you get a soot build up and it affects the efficiency of the unit. So that's 3 x 90 degree bends if you know what I mean. Just something to think about as too many bends will start to restrict flow. Just an fyi. Cheers

[@neilyakuza6595]

Put a heat exchanger on the exhaust pipe before exiting the pipe out the building.

[@kan815k]

That elbow for the outlet, did you buy it separately and it will not melt?

[@gregburke8163]

I'd like to use one of these to keep my pump house above freezing. Can it be set up to come on and off by itself [thermostatically controlled], or do you have to turn it on and off manually.??

[@garthhowe297]

It's humourous that they show using it in your car, with illustrations of places to mount it. Well... unless I'm forced to live in my car, I'm not going to start cutting holes in it for the exhaust. I think the home workshop/garage is the perfect use of it.

[@dallas11573]

It’s because these are designed for rigs and RVs… Hence the 12 V system. I think it’s ingenious how he converted it to be used in a shop.

[@OffTrap]

The funny thing is, im thinking about using a diesel heater as a auxiliary Space Heater for the car. But where to mount it so it's temporary for summer season? And like you mentioned, cutting holes. I mean I could use the drain plug holes for the exhaust and intake but its too much work. Better off investing in a block heater/oil pan heater.

[@Chimel31]

@@OffTrap The drain holes are way too small, meaning they would impede the exhaust and therefore the clean double-combustion. Your heater will never get hot enough and the partial combustion will result in back foul-smelling smoke all the time. If you have one of these tiny triangular windows or plastic panes behind the main rear windows, maybe you can replace it with one fitted with a hole during winter time. Or use one of these aeration grids to transport dogs in the boot, fit the exhaust to it and tape the rest of the grid. This heater is quite tall though, and you need lots of extra space under it for the burning hot exhaust, so the deconstructed variant without a case, that you can assemble lengthwise on a frame instead may be more suitable. But still rather dangerous...

[@Chimel31]

Yeah, not really practical for cars that sleep in the icy outdoors unless maybe you have a station wagon where you can fit it safely in the back. Modern diesel cars such as VW have had programmable built-in heaters for years, that do more than heating the cabin and defrosting the windshield and door windows in the morning, they also pre-heat the engine so the car does not start in a cloud of black smoke.

[@heidislz]

is the thermostat located in the "crystal Lcd screen"? Im trying to get my heater set on the lowest temp setting. I think thats 8 C so 46.4 f. Seems like mine thinks the bus I live in is always below freezing. I have mine installed in a low cupboard with with the controls panel on the the outside of the cupboard so I can read it easily.

[@carbonrrpilot]

5 liters=72 hrs. Not even close on eco low 30 hrs at best and the small inlet filter is conbustion air. [Youre not warming it] if you route it outide it will improve performance since cold air has much more oxygen than warm air and will burn hotter and more efficient

[@MkmeOrg]

Cold air is more dense but unless you ADD MORE fuel, you do NOT get more heat energy. The mixture is fixed.

[@vin9976]

What's the best ducting for the output air to the tent/camper? I built a portable one of these in a nice outdoor box. I'm a touch worried the flexible stuff doesn't expand to a full 3" and creates back pressure. I have some flexible stuff with PVC on the outer layer and I'm not sure how proper it is for handling the heat. I love that it compresses down tho. Any thoughts now that you've been doing it for a while?

[@davekauffman8727]

There's a slightly cheaper alternative to Diesel fuel, and it's safe, Diesel fuel is kerosene that has paraffin added to lubricate the injector pump and injectors. Kerosene, AKA house oil in the UK, will burn just as well.

[@DonaldRak-ku6bi]

Hi from Don I see you got screen inside your air intake plastic cyl, nice I didn't get screen just plastic cylinder. And thanks your same as mine So that helped me our lot Now I got get fuel filter on mine due too dirty diesel I got over couple months, and I got obtain air intake big flow filter too intake cooling fan cut dust from my garage

[@AndrewSimon-r6f]

Anyway to reduce the noise?

[@MegaTapdog]

Thanks for your time, do you have any insulation in ceiling or walls? i’m thinking about this for my 12x24 steel building, going to spray foam it next week or so to deal with condensation issues then figure out heat.

[@MkmeOrg]

No insulation at all and gaps all over

[@lloydevans2900]

When using any of these diesel heaters, you should never power them directly from a mains to DC converter. The reason is that they can't just be instantly switched off - even when running at the lowest possible setting, they still have to go through a cooldown cycle: This shuts off the fuel pump but keeps the fans going for a minute of two in order to purge the combustion chamber with fresh air and ensures that none of the components get damaged from overheating. A mains power cut (or a failure of the mains to DC converter) would make this cooldown cycle impossible and could therefore damage the unit. You should always have the heater powered directly from a 12 volt battery which will prevent that problem. An old car battery is ok, the greatest power draw is about 150 watts on start-up (the glow plug uses most of it), which is about 12.5 amps at 12 volts. So as long as the battery is capable of delivering that amount of current, it will work just fine. Another advantage is that it will keep going even if you lose mains power. I have my own diesel heater running from a 60 amp-hour car battery, which I know from experience will last for almost a week (I forgot to plug the charger into the wall socket once), using it for a few hours every evening. You can use a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up - once the glow plug shuts off after start-up, the fans and electronics only draw about 3 amps at most. So the charger will probably supply most of that, with the battery acting as an uninterruptible power supply. The battery charger will give a bit more than 12 volts (usually around 14 volts), but that isn't a problem - the heater will actually work on anywhere between 10 and 16 volts. Or if you have the 24 volt model (designed for use in trucks or boats which have a 24 volt electrical system), it can work on anywhere between 20 and 32 volts.

[@MkmeOrg]

Power doesnt get interrupted, not a problem.

[@heidislz]

could you, I know im sorry, provide a link for the power supply/inverter for US residents please.

[@heidislz]

found it, I was being lazy and brain dead

[@ronm6585]

Thanks Eric. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family. 🎄🎄🎅🏻🎅🏻

[@MkmeOrg]

Same to you Ron. Thanks for always having nice things to say :) Have a great Xmas

[@darrylhubbard931]

Holy!!! Nice work shop

[@dannywilliams6643]

I have a brand new one of these that I cant get to power up. When I have 12 volts going to it, im presented with the led screen. I've primed the pump, when I press the power button to start it, it shuts down immediately without any error codes. Its 87 degrees fahrenheit where im at. I just wanted to test this thing out. Could the thermostat be preventing this thing from firing up?

[@MkmeOrg]

Sounds like maybe you are running on too small of power supply or dead battery

[@RealfishingNL]

2.20 for a litre diesel? Over here its 1.78 a liter. The petrol is sinds covid changing every day. Sometines 40 cent a day difference. That u notice on a full tank of gass

[@ezyjack826]

great video. they have a 12V 33A 400W vs the 12V 15A 180W DC Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply for only $5 more. is there a reason I wouldn't want to get the more powerful one? figure I could use in on a few other projects I have coming up. also like the pump with it's shutoff feature so I'll be getting one. already have a heater but still in the box. are these affiliate links so you get credit? ty and appreciate the input. 😀

[@MkmeOrg]

No reason not to go for the bigger one really- won't really consume any significant amount more. Yep they are just basic Amazon affiliate links- I get a small commission which helps me build more fun stuff. Cheers

[@xxqq5719]

If you use air from inside as input, is it not replaced with (cold) air from outside. I can see that burning warm air may be more efficient. Thank you for the video.

[@MkmeOrg]

It's a tradeoff I think. You lose a bunch of your heated air by moving it outside, but I think the efficiency gains outweigh it when you are in a large building and not a van.

[@gregr5]

Diesel engines like cold air; it's denser and aids combustion. This isn't an engine, so it may not matter though.

[@MkmeOrg]

@@gregr5 Diesel internal combustion engine uses extreme compression to increase the temp to ignition. Cold is denser true but we are not compressing it in a tiny combustion chamber so we dont actually pack an more in at colder temps. The two really don't have anything in common besides the fuel I'm afraid.

[@Joshvlog77]

When you first turn it on do you get a diesel fume smell out of the heater pipe

[@MkmeOrg]

Definitely not

[@travislandsman]

where do you think the air comes from when the intake is in the shop?

[@MkmeOrg]

Same place your house furnace comes from

[@travislandsman]

yes outside@@MkmeOrg

[@steveweiss7024]

could have used a staight thru hull smaller hole

[@the-bu3lb]

The tick noise drives me crazy I couldn’t take it it now sits in the shed.

[@777steelerfan]

Best video on utube to explain diesel heaters! Thank you!

[@MkmeOrg]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Roger-xp2nf]

I watch a video of it running and it only ran for. 15 hours on high

[@barriewilliams4526]

Thank you for posting. I have just purchased one of these heaters after watching many (mainly positive) videos here on KZbin. One problem that may not have occurred to some people using a direct (via dropper) mains supply is, if there is a power outage the normal cool down period is not available i.e. No fan running...... Not sure what the consequences are if this should happen🤔

[@MkmeOrg]

You will get the heat energy stored in the combustion chamber and heat exchanger released in to the fan motor and controller. Not immediately destructive but quite undesirable for the bearings/bushings & brushes. If you want to avoid it a small UPS can power it quite a while for you to shut it down manually or ride through a small outage.

[@barriewilliams4526]

@@MkmeOrg Thanks for that👍

[@bruceholmes3599]

Direct the heat towards the tool chest and it will act as a storage heater !

[@MkmeOrg]

Solid idea

[@slashnburndotcodotuk]

During your piece to camera at the end, everything was reversed. Look at the signage in the background...

[@kimmer6]

I have been testing my diesel heater on red diesel. It is much too small to heat my house but the living room gets comfy. I have my furnace turned off to give the middle finger salute to the gas company. The diesel heater will go in my van conversion when I'm done playing with it. The 1/10th watt LED mounted above the fuel pump shows the fuel level from 30 feet away. A 5 liter plastic fuel jug with push button spout makes it easy to refill without spilling a drop. The power comes from 16 Headway 38120 lithium batteries with an on board 8 amp charger. The exhaust fits through a 3/4'' NPT hole that I drilled and tapped into the side of the wood stove. After a while, there is enough recovered heat to use the stove blower fan. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXmmpq2qq6ehjdU

[@abbeywhitmore9085]

Any smell inside at all. ?

[@MkmeOrg]

No that would be an indicator of something VERY wrong. It's a heat exchanger.

[@heidislz]

I am always broke, nice way to "syphon" lol!

[@bearinmindfarm]

Thanks for this

[@MkmeOrg]

You are welcome

[@heidislz]

Thanks!

[@diyprojects7515]

It's important to properly size the power supply unit. Spoke with my electrician mate who determined that the heater needed something over 20 amps. 5kw at 230v is just a touch over 20amp before power factor correction. So I ordered the 30 amp unit. .

[@MkmeOrg]

Your electrician was incorrect. This is not an electric heater bud- its diesel. The only draw is fan+control+Glowplug(during ignition only) The 5KW refers to the overall heat output, not the consumption. Heat energy can be expressed as BTUs, watts, calories and more.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Change your electrician. While the glow plug is active you will see possibly up to about 8.5 Amp draw @ 13.6V, this drops to around 3 amps max once lit and running.

[@isickofit]

My power supply is 8amp. Works perfectly. Am considering running via a UPS battery, to assist shutdown program in power cuts.

[@richysradioroom]

Nice

[@martymartian9820]

I've never seen such a poor manual. Almost impossible to decipher. Mine is blowing so hot I'm afraid to leave it. Gets over 230F and I just bought it. Might have to send back.

[@DwayneDibbley]

combustion air intake should go outside too.

[@MkmeOrg]

In a van yes, in a shop no

[@Chimel31]

I have the same 8kW Vevor heater, just with a slightly different plastic casing around the controller/screen unit. I found the design quite atrocious and very cheap: 1) The 2 feet of the case are totally useless, because the exhaust pipe cannot be bent to fit in the space between the feet, so the exhaust pipe form a third feet in the middle, higher than the 2 regular feet on each side. It just cannot stand on its feet, you need to screw higher metal feet under the existing feet or replace. 2) As you noticed yourself, the exhaust is incredibly hot, so: a) You need much higher feet indeed or you need to screw this supposedly portable case on the wall. I don't know why the exhaust would not be right opposite the hot air outlet instead of down below as logic and safety dictate. I suppose they think people would just cut a hole at the bottom of their RV to create a fire hasard with this burning hot air exhaust... b) This heater wastes a huge amount of heat through the exhaust. It does indeed char wood easily, making it a high fire risk hasard. I suppose the compact case does not make it possible to fit an efficient radiator that would act as a better heat exchanger, but I would rather have a much bigger and much more efficient case than wasting so much heat outdoors. Diesel's exhaust gases are already not great for the planet, but directly heating the atmosphere on top of that is a catastrophe. 3) All the pipes and electric cables provided are unsafe. They have no sheath or insulation, and are supposed to be fixed using garden hose clamps. Like the exhaust gases won't go through these non-airtight inadequate fittings. 4) The heater is provided with an English manual alright, but for a totally different heater of a different design, with a different controller. There are zero practical instructions on how to assemble the kit, nor on how to use the controller or the remote. Since the voltage can be adjusted on most power supplies, there is no mention of what best voltage should be used or why. Or rather, they do mention 12V and other voltages, but I have no clue what these mentions are for. These are supposed to be heaters for vans or trucks, running directly from the 12V battery, but 5) There are 2 separate air circuits, one for the combustion and exhaust, the other for heating the room with clean air, so I was expecting 2 inlets and 2 outlets, but there is actually only 1 air inlet, so I suppose it is subdivided in two for both the combustion chamber and the room heating, or maybe there's another natural aspiration inlet inside the case, it's not clear at all, I'll need to take the thing apart to verify. A priori, it does not look like there is a complete separation of the 2 air circuits, which would negate one of the best advantages of this heater. 6) Separate issue: I have a 30A power supply that also comes with no manual at all. At least it's not in ideograms, bless the Chinese! Unlike in the video, I used the connectors the farther away from the main connector, to reduce the risk. By the way, I find it amazing that the mains power is unprotected, on the same row as the 12V connectors. 7) I know this heater is designed for boats, trucks, vans or RVs, that's why they run on 12V and don't need certifications for 110/220V mains in different countries, but all these videos show them being used to heat a shop, a garage or even a house. Some care should be taken into designing an integrated power supply that runs from mains power, and housing that includes a battery, a trickle charger, the 12V power supply, or maybe even a heat-to-electricity generator from the burning hot exhaust pipe, to either top off the battery or run directly the heater, or evacuate the exhaust heat back into the house, maybe pre-heating fresh clean outdoors air to renew the polluted indoors air or to supply the combustion chamber with warm oxygen. The battery would be especially handy, or you won't be able to run your heater when you most need it in a winter storm that caused a power outage, even though you only need a meager 12V to run it. 8) Similarly, totally automating the heater with a thermostat would be a great and useful extension. 9) The controller of this heater can apparently be programed to clean-burn fuels other than diesel, like recycled frying oil, kerosene, etc. A proper manual and instructions would be helpful, Mr. Vevor... In short: Make sure you have replacement cables, crimps and plugs of appropriate gauge for both the 12V and 110/220V sections. Maybe longer pipes with real airtight clip or clamp systems, and fire-resistant insulation sleeves for the exhaust pipe (rockwool). A switch or 2 (mains and 12V) for easier maintenance, because neither the heater nor the power supply have one. Carefully plan ahead the location of this heater so that all 3 pipes and the controller/screen go to the most logical place. As for tools, a Phillips screw driver, crimp tool. A $30-40 contactless infrared thermometer would also be helpful. They're all cheap Chinese junk that's not very precise, but the professional 1000°C thermometer that I usedto control my wood stove cost 10 times more... Some cutting and drilling tools and a metallic or brick housing to protect the heater outside, maybe noise insulation sheets or rockwool,. This diesel heater is still a great plaything for modders and DIY. They all come in 2 separate form factors though: In a compact metal case like this one, or the "deconstructed" (as the chefs say) form factor, with no metal case but all other elements, so you can for instance mount the tank (or even a bigger one) at a bigger distance from the heater (in this video's model, the diesel tank made of thin plastic is right above the burning hot heater radiator, fire hasard anyone?), etc. I still smell both diesel fumes and exhaust fumes in mine, not even mentioning odorless nitrous or sulfuric oxides, so I'll be replacing all "factory" pipes with a real airtight system. I am also not confident about the actual "8kW" rated power of this thing, so I'll be measuring it using 1 liter of diesel at both low and high setting, to see how much diesel and therefore joules/kW it produced. Maybe also checking by how much it raised room temperature, but that's dependent on many other conditions external to the heater. Another important feature would be to transfer most of the exhaust pipe's heat back into the room without impeding the exhaust (and thus the full double combustion of the diesel and most of its exhaust flammable gases). I was thinking of doubling the exhaust pipe with an outer pipe where clean air would be heated and redirected either into the room or into some heat accumulation mass such as a wall, like thermal mass heaters do. This would radiate heat for a few hours after the heater is shut down.

[@Ray-ej3jb]

LMAO 20c a litre for red diesel no fu**ing way - £1.20 in uk. For road diesel it's £1.62 (£7.50) a gallon. Knock off Britain strikes again!!

[@samizdat113]

Just aboot every video? I doot it.

[@michelelovesfreedom]

Meters and Celsius makes no sense to me 🤷‍♀️

[@Train411]

Thumbs DOWN. Definitely not everything you need to know about the heater

[@MkmeOrg]

You tell 'em. Kick 'em in tha knee

[@enricami2494]

Everything You Need to Know About the Chinese Diesel Heater... is never buy one. Ever

[@thedoomsdayman66666]

Five liters per 1.5 days.. Diesel €1.80, 5 times 1,1,5 is €9 €180 per month