Everything You Need To Know: Hayward Aqua Rite Salt Generator System

[@VIPPoolsandSpas]

If you have any questions, please comment below. If the video helped you out, consider a THANKS ❤

[@DJM402]

Hello I’m having problems with my salt level staying the standard set to 3300 the next morning 1900 and check salt level and check cell.

[@VIPPoolsandSpas]

Keep doing the calibration and if it still goes down. Before that. Test the salt levels using a salt tester. (link in video description). Might need salt or might have to replace the cell.

[@kyleharnden9449]

Hi, I am having an issue with my Hayward aqua rite not displaying the salt levels correctly. Before I can do your reset method in the video I need to address one thing. My aqua rite is displaying different numbers than what yours is showing. When I first switch it auto mine displays 3.10 and it used to display it like how yours was at 3200. Do you know if I did something to change how it is displayed?

[@VIPPoolsandSpas]

OK. So it can be put into 2 different displays. ONE: is English units and that is PPM (parts per million). TWO: is Metic units (grams per liter). If you want to display ppm then, turn off, switch to auto, then up to super chlorinate and back down to auto. WAIT. This should switch it to ppm. Different years have a different way of switching it over. Sometimes you have to push the button after switching it up to super. ALSO: To save your change - Once the desired unit of measurement is selected, press the black button on the left side of the screen to save your selection.

[@cfm17hellcat11]

During the salt calibration steps you referenced. The salt countdown is starting at -1600. The actual salt level is 2430. Is there another method to correct this reading? Could it be a bad board? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

[@scottyblaze4558]

Hey there. I’m trying to re-calibrate my salt level on my display. When I drop down to the -0, and put it on auto the numbers, go up and come down but only down to 3700. I need to program it around 3300 any idea what’s going on here? Thanks for the insight

[@VIPPoolsandSpas]

It happens. Just get it up as close as you can. As long as it's working and you know what the salt levels are at.

[@anthonycromer178]

Hey, I replaced my T-Cell-5 with a GLX-Cell-5 and now my numbers are all messed up. It doesn’t show regular salt numbers. Any advice?

[@VIPPoolsandSpas]

Try turning power off, unplug and plug back in. Turn power back on and reprogram.

[@sorincruceana1036]

Thank you for posting the video; very informative; I have performed the reset twice, as shown in the video, and my salt level would show the correct numbers, but for some unknown reason, within 3-6 hrs, these numbers start going down as shown on the bord, and, as they reach the lower bound, 2700 and, below, the system would stop chlorinate. It would ask me to check salt/inspect cell. I have been doing the reset for at least 3 times already, but wondering if you could five me an idea as to why these numbers would go down and how to make the reading stable. Cell has been cleaned. Salt reading is 3400. Many thanks in advance!

[@Patriot-oi9cz]

What if I never had a flow switch and now, after replacing my T-cell and circuit board, it keeps saying NO FLOW (and not generating)

[@VIPPoolsandSpas]

@@Patriot-oi9cz what salt system do you have? The system in the video needs a flow switch to run the cell

[@Patriot-oi9cz]

@@VIPPoolsandSpashayward aqua Nature

[@Patriot-oi9cz]

@@VIPPoolsandSpasHaward Aqua Nature

[@JJ-fg4wp]

i am having issues with my hayward aquarite system. The only light I see green is power. I tried to recalibrate it by turning it off then on, like in your video and no change. The numbers on the screen do not move, unless I hit the diagnostic button. Had my sat cell tested and no issues. My water can't hold free chlorine. About 31,000 gallons and I have been adding a case of shock every week and within 3 days, 0 FC. I tried to locate the T on my screen and it is no where to be found. I am using the T15. I get my water tested and the salt is within the range. My voltage is 32 then I hit diagnostic button and I see 0.00 which is my amps on my cell. How do I know if my mother board is bad or is it is the entire Hayward system?

[@VIPPoolsandSpas]

@@JJ-fg4wp test your stabilizer because that will affect your chlorine. And. Really sounds like the board is bad.

[@JJ-fg4wp]

@@VIPPoolsandSpas I usually add 2 tubs of stabilizer twice a month. I thought owning a salt water pool was less expensive/ less work then chlorine but I am spending more than my neighbors who have chlorine pools. How can you tell if the mother board is bad when I am showing salt?

[@VIPPoolsandSpas]

Test your Stabilizer. You should test that at the start and really not be putting much in thru the summer. Keep it at around 30 to 50ppm. No higher. If higher than 50ppm, the chlorine will not work. To keep the cost down, use Muriatic Acid to drop your PH.

[@gargreen-t5z]

Mine only stars at 1800 then begins decreasing. Salt level per strip is near 4000

[@VIPPoolsandSpas]

Clean cell and if that doesnt work change the cell out.

[@gargreen-t5z]

Mine only stars at 1800 then begins decreasing. Salt level per strip is near 4000

[@VIPPoolsandSpas]

@@gargreen-t5z clean the cell, if that doesn't work change out the salt cell.