Evinrude 1970 Fastwin 18HP Simple Basic Steps to Evaluate a Motor For Newbies! Shes a BEAUT!Part1

[@OutBoardTink62]

Quick Checklist: #1 Visual for broken or missing obvious parts #2 Kill button wires for being frayed #3 Compression check 90lbs or better difference no more then 10lbs ideal check again after running will be better usually #4 Spark Check plug to ground bright blue spark ideal yellow not good(change plugs reccomended) #5 Check thermo and remove replace new if preferred #6 Inspect Gear oil drain or replace milky water intrusion bad seals possibly or fishing line stuck behind prop remove prop and inspect and or change oil #7 Check prop for bent blades or bad chips & # 8 Check fuel lines for stiffness and dry rotting

[@meesersmom1]

Another informative video, well done. Video quality is excellent.

[@OutBoardTink62]

Thanks you learn as you go with this KZbin thing .Isnt she a beaut so simple made to last. Ill do whatever it takes to fix it if it needs an overhauling maybe find out today if I run it...Thanks GP

[@davidgrajko]

I sold you the motor and I’m glad to see it going back into its original condition !!!!!

[@OutBoardTink62]

Hey Dave ill contact you when I get it ready.I would like to try this one myself. I have a little 14FT MFG Challenger Im working on but probably not,LOLL! Ill be in touch with you thanks for commenting ,Stay Tuned waiting on those new needles and cage assembly a few days didnt want to go used on that ... Glenn

[@fleetwin1]

@@OutBoardTink62 Did the engine actually have a knock??? You mention replacing needle/cages here....

[@OutBoardTink62]

@@fleetwin1 Ran for a split second and locked up ,HAAA l willl explain in the next video..

[@meesersmom1]

I love your videos!!

[@OutBoardTink62]

Well Thankyou!

[@tyrrellmastropaolojr7972]

Hi there thanks for your videos I have the same motor mint haven’t done anything to it yet only had it a week lots of bad weather here in Tennessee. Should I remove the thermostat also and leave it out

[@OutBoardTink62]

Sorry for delay in responding yes I would leave it out. I gather freshwater use only my brother lived in Memphis,LOL! Freshwater thermos can last along time its up to you its mostly saltwater that the problems arise with neglect...Good Luck with your motor sounds like a beaut!

[@davekimbler2308]

Very nice ! 👍. I’d rate that one a 7.5 out of 10 ! Only because of minor scratches and I’ve not heard it run ! If it runs as good as it looks then it’s up to a 9 !

[@OutBoardTink62]

Hey Dave,Thanks check out the followup video and I touched up all the blue scratches with 6902 Tempo touchup I had. Runs good only ran it for a short time. I want to run it again soon been hot here like many places taking it easy. I did change the crankshaft and some other stuff. Click on the circled I icon top right corner to view.....regards Glenn

[@davekimbler2308]

@@OutBoardTink62 I sure will ! Ya it’s hot here also , no motivation lately but am looking towards the big Tomahawk National meet on the 3rd ! I’m hoping to snag some nice cheap outboards to work on this winter and sell next spring ! I’d like to have 20 ready to go by next spring ! Lol. Take care Glenn !

[@OutBoardTink62]

Dave,Yeah heat and motivation dont go hand and hand,LoLL. Just sent two outboard parts to Colorado I like E-Bay selling its so fricken easy. Wow 20 thats a nice little nestegg when you cash in. Im happy selling 2-3 month your pretty productive. All I can say is Keep the Old Motors a Kickin & a Sellin~ HAAA! Stay tuned!!

[@davekimbler2308]

@@OutBoardTink62 sure will ! You take care also !

[@JordyMills-y4y]

I have the same motor.... very clean inside but I'm not getting spark any ideas

[@OutBoardTink62]

I apologize for slow response how did you make out????Polish or sand the points is a must and new plugs helps greatly... rarely the kill button can short to ground too check the wires in the cowling going to the button and up to the magneto plate.. Good Luck!

[@davidwaldrup5092]

Love the video. What do I need to check for a no spark issue on 1 cylinder on an Evinrude 18hp fastwin?

[@OutBoardTink62]

Hi Dave, first thing what year is your Fastwin up until I think 1960-61 the coils had poor insulation & it shrinks and cracks and shorts to ground. All the 1950S engines have this issue unless serviced. Need changing if thats the case. If coils are blue or green, black even red they should be good if not cracked all over. Polish points with fine sandpaper on the motor its the easiest way. I take them out and use an airtool. The tungsten contacts oxidize with time and when the motor sits for years. Set points at .020 at cam highpoint. If thats not the problem check sparkplug wire end spring in the boot the spring corrodes bad sometimes causing no spark not too common. Other possibilities are bad wires on the kill button shorting in the lower cowl some where check those wires for breaks and cracks from aging.. Hope this helps and if you like my channel Subscribe im trying to build my channel. Thanks for commenting ..TOT62!

[@rgboyte]

Wow!

[@FishingDIYMacGyverWithMe]

I got the same 1969 last year in that same clean condition. Few things needed to be replaced but hope to have a workhorse.

[@OutBoardTink62]

Good Luck great motors! Let me know if you need parts I have a barnfull of them. Thanks for comment! Stay Tuned!

[@FishingDIYMacGyverWithMe]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/eoimi5aba9OqqKs

[@itsnegl3ct341]

I believe mine needs a impeller didnt notice any water on the p hole maybe the water was to low thow but the engine looks just a mint i got it to start second pull but ive noticed when it does start it will pull the choke off ever seen that ?

[@OutBoardTink62]

Hello your motor if its the same year group doesnt have a p-hole. Water comes out the upper exhaust port in the mid-section together with the exhaust. At lower throttle settings its a pressure pump and higher throttle it acts as a centifugal pump and discharges with a softer discharge like a low setting on a garden hose. Water level should be slightly below the side cover shock mount covers above the secondary small cavitation plates when you run it in a barrel or container. Change the plastic detent insert on your choke linkage would be my first guess. Could be assembled wrong also... Hope this helps!

[@TPaolozzi]

how easy is it to change the gear selector rod and handle on these engines as mine snapped off after falling over,or how hard should i say,many thanks.

[@OutBoardTink62]

Well Hello Tony my fellow Italiano! Well if just the handle is broke or If I understood you correctly the rod broke off clean too. You have to remove the powerhead not so easy for most not familar with doing that job. Its very common on these models I call them Deer antlers they protrude way too far out with no support. Anyway the gearshifter alone is easy two bolts and you swap them out. I have the parts if you need them .Thanks for commenting. Where are you located??? Please subscribe and stay tuned if you like old outboard videos!!regards Glenn

[@TPaolozzi]

@@OutBoardTink62 hello and greetings from the uk and yes im italiano haha the rod has broken off complete with the handle and your right the power head willl have to come off,im a mechanic by trade but not with outboards,outboards,mercedes yes any day,do you have a video relating to this?hope you are well,thanks for your videos.

[@OutBoardTink62]

@@TPaolozzi Well Im sure you can do it being a mechanic. You might search on KZbin and find a similar repair. Those motors do have one bolt way up in the front underneath that requires a little finess in getting out. A long extension & swivel socket would do it. Other than that its all pretty straight fwd and just disconnecting obvious things. Fuel lines, two electrical kill wires ,carburetor knobs,choke linkage,etc. Let me know if you decide to do it thanks for subscribing. regards....Glenn

[@TPaolozzi]

@@OutBoardTink62 good morning Glen and hope you are well,just digging into this engine and noticed the lockout lever appears to be missing and im not sure of its purpose,its backfiring and no spark and i was trying to get it started before doing the gear selector.many thanks.

[@OutBoardTink62]

@@TPaolozzi Most people take them off anyway as they become a nuisance when they are worn or out of adj. it just prevents starting in FWD gear at advanced throttle and taking a bath,LOL!. Now there is also a gearshift detent bar thats very important you have to have it thats another thing. The older motors never had that recoil stop mechanism. As far as no spark, backfiring just polish those points. If you do change the points get Sierra there Okay. There have been problems with new defective BRP OMC replacement points from China not opening at all with full adjustments. I use a 3 inch blue 3M Roloc disc on a right angle air Dotco very carefully to polish the tungsten point contacts taken apart with a few passes or you can use fine sandpaper between the points on the motor. Set the points at .020 a the peak of the cam with new plugs you should be good . There is more but that should do it most times. Put lowspeed carb needle initially very important for sputtering at 1 1/4 turns from lightly seated fully closed and go from there. After its warmed up if still backfiring(lean sneeze we call it) CClockwise low speed 1/8th turn increments till it stops throttling up for a few seconds in between to stabilze the mixture. No more than 3/4 turn when done from closed postion. Around 1 turn from fully closed should do it most times ,,Hope this helps..

[@fleetwin1]

Boy o boy, that is a real beauty....Sure hope you keep it for yourself, won't find another one like it in such nice shape. Looks like someone replaced that fuel pump with the cheap chinese stuff, the telltale sign are the phillips screws holding it together. They oriented the fuel pump cap in the wrong direction which is why the line appears kinked and is too short at the connector end.... Looks like that original thermostat was stuck open, will respectfully disagree about omitting thermostats in general...They are there for a few reasons, the restriction helps control water flow completely around the cylinders, and these engines really need to warm up good or the won't idle very well/foul plugs. That gear lube looks original, it was dark in color back then. Keep this one for your personal collection....

[@OutBoardTink62]

Thanks for the info isnt that engine something else I am still quite shocked. I already figured that out and reorientated the fuel pump connector position was off also shortening the hose .I repaired it a few days back got rid of that clamp too .Novices do that all the time when mounting new pumps .At first casual glance I thought it was new Chinese pump hoping it wasnt,LOL. Then realized it was at closer look the next day when I fixed the problem. Pump is alot thicker,hence the longer phillips screws as a giveaway like you mentioned. Yep thermostat stuck partially opened too noticed that when I edited the video,HA. Not a fan of thermostats on most small engines in warm weather enviroments thats my take . With fuel pumps If there is a nice working OMC pump on it I give them a Chinese as a spare when I flip it there cheap enough. . .Next video coming soon motor needs my expertise And help big time as all I will say at this time Ill show and explain what happened to it ... Stay Tuned ....... Glenn.

[@fleetwin1]

@@OutBoardTink62 Sure hope there wasn't any internal issues afterall.....

[@BobSmith-ih7qe]

Hey thanks for posting all the new videos. I have been trying to contact you about some motors and parts. Let me know. Thanks!

[@OutBoardTink62]

Okay Bob sorry for the delay well be in touch ,...GP

[@victorsampietro9018]

Hello Sir…just saw your video..amazing!.. I just bout 14 ft sea nymph..it has 1969 evinrude 18 HP fastwin..when I went to see it..it started on second pull..I want to bring it to my guy at marina..I want him to check all you did..what do I ask for..I would love to talk to you…I could email my number..thank you for your channel

[@OutBoardTink62]

Hello Vic, thanks for commenting. Check out Part Two of this engine being fixed & running. Link is in the upper right corner infor. card icon below the two other videos. Just have him clean the points or replace them ,new water pump impellar,compression check, remove thermo leave it out or if youd like install new one, new sparkplugs , replace gear oil if no water issue and maybe a new fuel pump should do it if the carb seems good. Not too much to do marinas make there money on labor mostly .Im thinking around $250-$275 labor and parts.... Good Luck Subscribe and hit the like button check out my other videos ... thanks Glenn

[@victorsampietro9018]

@@OutBoardTink62 thanks so much Glen!!

[@OutBoardTink62]

@@victorsampietro9018 You welcome!!

[@mumbles552]

Nice motor but the thermostat is stuck open and needs replacing.

[@OutBoardTink62]

Yes it is a nice motor needed crank and rod change. I replace all of my thermostats by not using them right in the trash good or bad. Customer who wants one they can put it in themselves. Big nuisance item in my area mostly because of owners neglect in changing them and saltwater learned that after over 40 years of working on them. Thanks for your comment yes this thermo was bad didnt notice at first. and threw it out after the video.

[@rubenhoekstra4637]

Can you post your checklist in the comments?

[@OutBoardTink62]

Sorry it took long time but checklist is up & pinned up top I apologize..TOT62

[@johncarlberg4481]

I’ve got a 1972 fisherman that is almost as clean as that

[@OutBoardTink62]

Hi John, Very nice those 6HP were great motors ever need parts let me know. I have alot of 6HP stuff they made them for many years. Fixed one not that long ago.Good Luck with your engine.. Thanks for commenting.....Glenn

[@johncarlberg4481]

@@OutBoardTink62 just finally got it ready after putting in new impeller last year and new thermostat this year. Ran it in bucket and it’s all good! Taking it out tommorow or Sunday!

[@OutBoardTink62]

@@johncarlberg4481 Have Fun Happy Motoring!

[@johncarlberg4481]

@@OutBoardTink62 just got back from lake! Motor ran ok, but sputters a bit. I’m gonna try some new coils

[@OutBoardTink62]

@@johncarlberg4481 In my experience thru many years OMC coils under flywheel on a whole are very hearty.In the early 60s they changed the insulation to a much better covering no cracking or shrinking like on the 1950S engines. I have scrapped 5 gallon buckets full of old cracked coils yours are plastic insulated being a 1972 model.You can take the coils out and do a resistance check or just change them . Have not seen many bad ones. If you plan on keeping the engine leave the coils in for now and polish or change the points first. Also any sputtering at low rpms is very common caused by improper mixture ,turn lowspeed slightly to the left to ridden the lean sneeze as we call it if thats your condition in small increments till it disappears. Could be many other things but this is a start.... Good Luck!