Expert Mods: E3D v6 Installation (Robo 3D R1)

[@joshuapage903]

Thank you for actually editing your videos. I'm so sick of people who just ramble on while they fumble with parts and waste my time. Good job!

[@xirtus]

I am grateful for your videos, both for finesse with which tackle robo 3d problems that have baffled me for literally several years now, but also because your mustache is at least as reassuring,

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Andreas Nicholas First time seeing this comment, I appreciate it a lot.

[@thepaintedginger]

You have been a big help. I picked one up from a pawn shop and this has been one heck of a time getting it ready to print

[@marcgomes5262]

Thanks so much for this video. I couldn't find any video better than this when it comes to explaining and installing the e3d v6 on the Robo 3d R1. Your other videos rock as well.

[@MarcusArmstrong037]

Excellent video, as always. And well timed as this is the next mod that I will be making to my Robo 3D R1. The only thing that I wish was shown that wasn't is more of the electrical side of the installation. I know you said you were showing it after the fact, so you explained what you did, but didn't show what you did. Mainly, I care because the electrical side of the printer is something I have yet to mess with, and I'm a little intimidated by it.

[@alexbringas2912]

Thank you! Your videos are very helpful ! Thank you for taking the time to make them.

[@NoviceExpertise]

Nick Capaldi Can't reply directly to your comment, but that sounds like a nozzle clog. I use Nylon to unclog my extruder, but you also can give the nozzle an acetone bath. After the problem is solved an oiler should prevent that problem in in the future.

[@dragnet53]

+Novice Expert couldn't you just splice the wires and direct connect the new ones with the old ones?

[@ethannewhouse7541]

When installing the Bowden tube, I would recomment taking a razor and putting a small chamfer on the inside of the opening closest to the bolt, that'll make loading filament much easier. Just my two cents. Happy printing.

[@NoviceExpertise]

Ethan Newhouse Great tip, that aids in the use of flexible filament as well. I may have to rerecord this installation video.

[@momkid90]

I don't know if your still active, but I'm trying to remove the x axis carriage from my Robo 3D R1 by sliding it up off the rails like I saw in your disassembly video, but my z axis is locked by some sort of z axis lock. I am not able to freely slide my Z axis like you were in your disassembly video, why is that?

[@bigfatbill5187]

A few questions. Why didn't you do the counterbore to "ensure the pneumatic fitting isn't being pressed against the carriage" from the forum guide? Also, isn't it easier to connect the wires to the existing JST connectors that already run to the board? You didn't mention anything about printing a new parts fan holder for people who don't have a super modded printer. Going a bit slower and showing all the steps would be very helpful for a newbie like me. I don't even know how to get the extruder base piece off the rails.

[@NoviceExpertise]

Tim Coombs A few answers. 1. I am definitely not an professional. You are the first to bring that thread to my attention. I may try this soon in the future. 2. Essentially yes, but I have a wire carriage. When I first installed it the connectors prevented the X axis from zeroing. Plus as much as I do enjoy modular connectors I hated how my extruder carriage looked with 4 black JST connectors hanging out the side of it. 3. I would assume if someone wanted to keep the connectors in tact, they would. 4. When I installed my custom fan duct that I designed, I printed it without supports and no cooling system ... so did my other two friends that have upgraded to E3D v6s. 5. I tend to teach fast because I'd rather you pause the video and replay than fall asleep during a 15 minute video. 6. True I did not include that part, and I do apologize I incorrectly assume that my audience wants to learn like I learn. Being given a guideline and figuring out missing steps. 7. The day I bought the printer I took every bolt apart and put it back together, I keep forgetting people don't learn like me.

[@basook6116]

E3D v6 is one of the best

[@nickcapaldi6639]

Hey can you tell me why about a week after installing the v6 for some reason the teeth on the bolt the feeds the filament chews right threw my plastic. Then I air prints. It seems that the plastic is getting stuck in the nozzle some how because after heating it back up to remove the piece left in there it's really hard to pull out. Any ideas?

[@jamesfaison633]

My e3d v6 did not come with a bowden tube and ive been wondering why itd never work... What size tubing is that?

[@jonatanalonso4169]

al cambiar y colocar el E3D V6 en el marlin hay que cambiar algun parametro o dejamos todo como esta?

[@KJCoin]

I just purchased an E3D V6 nozzle for my R1 and I'm just curious, why do I have to unplug the cables from the Arduino, can I not just plug the E3D cables in to the connectors that the old Hot End Used? Like plugging the thermistor from the hot end in to the connector where the old thermistor plugged in to, not the plug on the board. Sorry if that sounds confusing, I'm not familiar with the terminology

[@NoviceExpertise]

Yup you can use the stock everything. However the heater that comes with the E3D is more powerful than stock.

[@Wander.Fleaux.Productions]

After installation, none of my axes home to the same location.. Is there a way to zero the axes at a certain point? Someone please help Im lost at this point

[@cartertom3]

What do we do with the original 40mm fan? The larger one behind the extruder? Also my bottom piece that screwed off to get to the underneath the robo circuit board had a fan on the bottom plate. When I took it off I notice the fan is suppose to connect to the board to prevent overheating? Where does it connect back to? Which location on the board.

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Michael Simmons You can 3D print a fan duct, and place the fan in there so you can still cool PLA. As for the fan underneath the printer there is two pins on the ramps board labeled 12V AUX, you hook the fan up there.

[@nathanhorning9762]

as always love the videos. i just need to get my fan cases printed. i had one almost done then the extruder jammed and only printed 75% of it. so i shall try again lol.

[@crossthreadaeroindustries8554]

Great help, I am about to mod my R1+.

[@BreakingElegance]

I also saw an amazing video you made with the cable management carriage you think something like that is available for the R1+ ?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Breaking Elegance I think the same carriage would work. The X-carriage changed a bit, but I think it's till the same as the R1

[@Alfred33129]

I love your Robo R1 videos and have decided to go ahead and upgrade mine to an E3D v6 after watching your videos about it (multiple times). The only question I have is should I get the 12v one or the 24v one. Thank you!

[@NoviceExpertise]

Alfred33129 12 volt, Robo 3D's power supply is 12v. Some 3D printers have a 24v power supply, that is why it is offered.

[@emilioch713]

Hello Novice Expert! I just want to say I have been looking ALL over the internet for a E3D V6 tutorial for a Robo3d as I myself have a Robo and ready to install the E3D V6. You did a great job on this video and the last, which was assembling the E3D but like someone mentioned below already I also would like to see a detailed tutorial on the wiring and the electrical side of this tutorial also did you splice in the new thermistor and hot end into the stock ones or did you completely removed the old wiring harness and install the ones that came with the E3D V6 kit? Thank you soo much in advanced! Def a thumbs up and a subscribe!

[@NoviceExpertise]

Och1103 THANKS! I did remove the entire old wiring harness and put everything from the new E3D on it.

[@DaggaSoft]

Do yo know of any clever way to use regular thermistors with e3d's newer cartridge style? I just installed this head tonight and like an idiot swapped the fan and thermistor wires, and blew the thermistor. Now I can't print until the replacement arrives but I do have a traditional thermistor laying around.

[@NoviceExpertise]

Any thermistor will work as long as you use the correct configuration in your firmware

[@kaanan222]

No thermister setting to change? Does the ROBO use the same thermister type?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+3D Drones There is one change, on line 148, change 1 to 5. //#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5

[@yoopercolorado]

I have followed your instructions where I can but after installing this mod there is no place to attach the parts fan. The part that had screw holes for the parts fan was replaced with a hotend fan that clamps to the hotend but it does not have screw holes for the parts fan. Did you just eliminate the parts fan entirely? Thanks!

[@MikeDav-mv7jt]

You can print a clip on fan holder that works really well. yeggi and thingiverse have them to download. you can PLA print it without the fan.

[@DeadEye2003]

actually could you make another video because I'm a little nervous to take the printer apart and put this on and also could you do a video on how to put marlin on an lcd contoller? Thanks man, you rock!

[@NoviceExpertise]

I'll get right on it

[@DeadEye2003]

Thanks man, your the best :)

[@im_santo]

Were you able to extrude flexibe filament with the hexagon, or did you had to wait for the E3D v6 extruder?

[@NoviceExpertise]

Was not, still haveing problems with it to this day. hexagon, e3d, direct, Bowden. Flexibles give me problems all over ht place.

[@BreakingElegance]

I am wondering how hard it would be to install the E3d V6 on a Robo3d R1+ plus since the carriage is differently designed , but since the new Extruder is all metal do you think its an upgrade worth doing? will it give me better prints and will it lower the microns? it would be nice if you have any information on how to install it a on R1+ Plus

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Breaking Elegance I thought they were exactly the same...man was I wrong! Ok, after doing a bit of research through the forum it looks they are similar though. This is link to the general E3D v6 installation guide, page 13 is about the time when the R1+ hit the market and they have instructions on installing it. bit.ly/1Pcytlk As far as worth goes, Since the release of the R1 the extruder has been all metal. The main reason I "upgraded" was because I broke mine (bit.ly/1MQe6IV) Better prints? Negligible, the printer provides the quality. It would be good with either extruder. Lower Microns? Depends, leave the nozzle at 0.4mm and no, make it smaller and yes. I feel that the E3D is very easy at changing the nozzle, but I am bias. I've gone down to .01mm to make some tiny things (still the layer height is a product of the printer) Faster Heat Up? Definitely, 0 to 200 c in 60 seconds! Easy Maintenance? Absolutely, It can be taken apart in minutes. Worth the money? Without a doubt! The choice is yours, I'd say buy one. Change it. And if anything goes wrong you have a spare in your parts bin! Plus you'll have the experience of working with the carriage in case you one day need to work on something there.

[@warfingeforever4338]

For the ROBO 3d, you are my GOTO resource. Kudos! That said, the wrap on this video was disappointing. I'll forgive you this time ;) Keep up the good work and I will keep watching. I wait for the dual head mod... do eet....

[@NoviceExpertise]

+War Finge Oh, I just got my dual extruder today...stay tuned

[@warfingeforever4338]

...can't wait man. Amped about it.

[@cartertom3]

Is it easier to take the entire extruder group off the printer to install? Or can it be installed connected still ? Thanks Simmons

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Michael Simmons Because there is some rewiring, and drilling it is much easier to have it off the printer.

[@Ozzie4Para]

Do I need to print the dual fan mount shown in your fan to run the E3d V6? If so, can you give me a link to download the STL file from Thingiverse? Thanks for all your help. Your videos on this printer are awesome.

[@NoviceExpertise]

Ozzie Alarcon Do you need it? Not dual, but at least one cooler yes. if you want to use mine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGrdfn99lpuVpZI or thingiverse has plenty of cools ones as well: www.thingiverse.com/search?q=e3d+v6+fan&sa=

[@bertsbug]

I have the dual fan setup on my machine. but run with them off. every time I run them even down to 40% which barely moves the fans. It cools down the the extruder. it pops a temp error because it goes under 200. I can't even get to 210 with my FSN on at all..... how is yours? I also have a external screen so I can monitor everything.

[@NoviceExpertise]

+bertsbug I can run mine at 100% just not from the 2nd layer. If you use Cura change the "Fan full at height" to like 1.5. This will force the fans to speed up slowly with each increment, this should prevent the temp fall error. If that doesn't work, I have another solution but try that one first.

[@genisphyla]

Did you need the quick release spacer for this install ? my extruder is broken and i purchased an e3d v6 that didn't come with the spacer. Any thoughts on if i can still do the upgrade or do i need to source the spacer ?

[@NoviceExpertise]

I'm unfamiliar about the spacer you are referring to, if you are still working on this email me [e-mail]

[@Lukedukeis]

Is the wireing much different on the R1+ ? This video does not jive with what I am looking at.

[@NoviceExpertise]

The wiring for the R1+ is a bit different, but are much easier to work with on the R1+

[@llslimjadyll]

hey marquis, i need help, i have just upgraded to the e3d v6 but i have a different board on mine and its not even turning in, i know i did all the wires right, but its still not working, anyway you could help would be great

[@NoviceExpertise]

+llslimjadyll If you have an R1+ check if the fan and the hotend are switched.

[@johnnew4766]

Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Which kit did you buy from E3d? I assume the universal, but did you get the direct or bowden version?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+John New Direct, both come with a bowden tube, but the bowden version comes with a longer tube.

[@puppetsmithartscreaturesan9654]

I trying to do this but really struggling. So I have the fan that is clipped to the heat sync connected to the 12v +/-. I have the thick wire from the extruder (the thick, blue cables to the cylindrical rod) to D10. What goes into D9?? Is there some other fan? I didn't see the old one ever being reinstalled. Also, you say to hook up the other connections, but don't tell how they go. Someone HELLLP!!

[@NoviceExpertise]

+PuppetSmith Arts Creatures and Cosplay D9 goes into the fans that cool the print, unless it's on an R1+ where they switched the fan and the heater I believe.

[@cartertom3]

Have had 1 hell of a time trying to do this, anyway I can send it to you for service.!??? Let me know the details. Costs, thanks

[@XellosMetallium]

is the E3D provided fan the same as da vinci 1.0 rear fan?

[@NoviceExpertise]

Never seen a da vinci 1.0, but if it's a 30x30x10mm 12CFM fan that runs at 12 volts than it just might be. e3d-online.com/Electrical/Fans

[@DeadEye2003]

Oh also is there any way you could do a video on how to tune your printer and get really nice smooth prints if you have time, because I know you have other things to do I'm sure, thanks again man.

[@NoviceExpertise]

Working on firmware tuning now, it has a few parts and is still being edited though.

[@DeadEye2003]

Novice Expert ok thanks man

[@puppetsmithartscreaturesan9654]

How do I know which is the x, the y, the z connector to plug back into the board?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+PuppetSmith Arts Creatures and Cosplay There are small letters X, Y, and Z on the ramps board.

[@elijahtalassazan8607]

Novice expert I can't get my hot end straight

[@NoviceExpertise]

Elijah Talassazan Depending on which way it leans, push is the other way before tightening the screws on the top. When the threads catch the extruder it should hold it's straight position.

[@jlrandall27]

Help! I did the e3d v6 install but am getting an error. My temp reads 385. What did I miss?? The fans work & the unit homes.

[@NoviceExpertise]

jlrandall27 Did you change your thermistor in the firmware?

[@jlrandall27]

+Novice Expert Not yet, I was checking my wiring. Will do that ASAP.

[@maxwellclemens5684]

how to i make the z even after i take the whole component out. I cannot have the rods uneven and i dont know how to make them even. anything else we need to know PLEASE RESPONG

[@NoviceExpertise]

Spin the leadscrews opposite of one another until the guide rails are level

[@maxwellclemens5684]

Novice Expert I know that but how do I make them level I can't do it by eye

[@NoviceExpertise]

Use G29 in the G-Code terminal: bit.ly/2iHGPw2 Or use a bubble or laser level

[@jesusreignonhigh6732]

How did you configure your hotend's offset? I installed my E3D Lite6 but the offset of my hotend's tip is touching the bed.

[@NoviceExpertise]

Either in the firmware in configuration.h under Z offset or M565 Z-(value of offset)

[@jesusreignonhigh6732]

Novice Expert I see. I found out that mattercontrol has Z-offset setting. Although, I also attempted to find the Z-offset on configuration.h but I couldn't find it. What line is it at?

[@NoviceExpertise]

388 if it's not on that line use Ctrl+F and type offset

[@jesusreignonhigh6732]

Novice Expert i got it tnx

[@jeffhamiltoncertifiedmaste5374]

Did you find after installing the E3D v6 that the wires that come with the unit are shorter?

[@NoviceExpertise]

Yes, the wires on my heater cartridge were a tad short, needed to add an extra 8 inches of 20 awg

[@jeffhamiltoncertifiedmaste5374]

Thank you, I thought I was going nuts

[@Ozzie4Para]

I appreciate all your 3DR1 videos. I'm about to install my E3D V6 on my printer and I have a few questions: 1) Did you have to modify the firmware on your printer because of the different thermister on the E3D V6? If so, how hard was that to do? 2) I've read on the forum that I can use the hexagon heater on the E3D V6 so that's one less thing to changed on the wiring. Is this true? Can I use the stock heater?

[@NoviceExpertise]

Ozzie Alarcon 1) I didn't personally because I used different thermistors, but it is recommended that if you use the thermistor that was supplied from E3D, you change thermistor on line 132 in configuration.h from 1 to 7. 2) You can, but the new heater will heat up much faster. My E3D v6 can warm from 20c to 200c in 60 seconds.

[@Ozzie4Para]

Novice Expert This is where I'm unclear on how to edit the line 132 in the config file.

[@NoviceExpertise]

Ozzie Alarcon Oh, my apologizes. This video show you where to get and how to edit firmware using Arduino. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oHTMqoaIi9Gbd9k

[@Ozzie4Para]

Novice Expert How do I know what the line number is to edit the config file?

[@marquisjohnson3849]

Ozzie Alarcon Previous comment: "you change thermistor on line 132 in configuration.h from 1 to 7."

[@bobocop5892]

Hi Novice, I'm trying to install your upgrades (I Think their great) I have been able to print everything except the carriage. i've tried many times but the bearing holes keep coming out oval and chain link holder like a web. I was wondering if you could print me out a carriage, I would gladly pay for your troubles and shipping of course

[@NoviceExpertise]

Bobocop What ever you would like to do, I can help you fix it for free if you'd like. Here's my Email: [e-mail] I can definitely make you one, and we can figure something out.

[@bobocop5892]

Novice Expert Didn't know Cura had supports, ounce i set it to Touching Buildplate it printed the carriage fine

[@rpm-zr4fh]

I have been working on this upgrade and i am having a hard time seeing what wires to take out for my extruder fan. if you could help me out it would be much appreciated

[@marquisjohnson3849]

+rpm 9000 Wire to take off the extruder or the RAMPS board?

[@rpm-zr4fh]

actually... never mind... with a bit of trial and error i figured it all out... thanks though

[@marquisjohnson3849]

Awesome! Glad you figured it out.

[@rpm-zr4fh]

do you have a robo 3d printer? not to be creepy but i have been having this one problem that i can not figure out to fix

[@marquisjohnson3849]

+rpm 9000 I am Novice Expert...

[@Isthatchicken01]

So is changing the stock printer head to the E3D v6 really worth the time and money? How much of a difference does it make?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+mute333tard Well I think it is: nozzle changing is easily, it can get hotter, it heats up in about 60 seconds, due to the bowden tube it makes it easier to load filament, I love how the themistor has a screw instead of a rubber boot, and it is compatible with other E3D components so it can be upgraded easily.

[@Isthatchicken01]

Novice Expert Oh okay, I might as well try it once my stock printer head stops working. You inspired me to get the Robo 3D R1. Thank you for the upgrade/mod how to videos you make for your printers, it really helps. Keep up the good work.

[@dragnet53]

+Novice Expert I didn't like the Hexagon extruder at all. Plus mine didn't allow me to change out the nozzle. So when I printed with wood the whole thing just jammed. So I upgraded to the E3D v6 version.

[@minerpro24]

Do you need to change anything with software after the v6 is installed?

[@minerpro24]

I'm very unfamiliar with arduino so I connected the v6 cables to the old stock quick connects since it was easier. I'm not sure if that makes a difference.

[@minerpro24]

i tried following the instructions concerning the firmware from this thread community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/e3d-v6-information-installation-guides-and-review.3407/ but when I try to upload, I get an error. Arduino: 1.8.1 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:23:0, from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30: sketch\pins.h:2564:0: warning: "X_MAX_PIN" redefined #define X_MAX_PIN -1 ^ In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:23:0, from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30: sketch\pins.h:445:0: note: this is the location of the previous definition #define X_MAX_PIN 2 ^ In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:23:0, from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30: sketch\pins.h:2565:0: warning: "Y_MAX_PIN" redefined #define Y_MAX_PIN -1 ^ In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:23:0, from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30: sketch\pins.h:451:0: note: this is the location of the previous definition #define Y_MAX_PIN 15 ^ In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:23:0, from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30: sketch\pins.h:2566:0: warning: "Z_MAX_PIN" redefined #define Z_MAX_PIN -1 ^ In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:23:0, from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30: sketch\pins.h:457:0: note: this is the location of the previous definition #define Z_MAX_PIN 19 ^ sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:2090:36: warning: invalid suffix on literal; C++11 requires a space between literal and string macro [-Wliteral-suffix] LCD_MESSAGEPGM(MACHINE_NAME" "MSG_OFF"."); ^ In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0, from sketch\cardreader.h:8, from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:44: SdBaseFile.h:38: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct' struct fpos_t { ^ In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0, from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30: c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here __extension__ typedef long long fpos_t; ^ sketch\Marlin_main.cpp: In function 'void set_bed_level_equation_lsq(double*)': sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:842:36: warning: deprecated conversion from string constant to 'char*' [-Wwrite-strings] planeNormal.debug("planeNormal"); ^ exit status 1 using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct' This report would have more information with "Show verbose output during compilation" option enabled in File -> Preferences.

[@minerpro24]

I think i fixed it. I downgraded to 1.6.9

[@minerpro24]

My prints look good now.

[@goldensubaru22]

Why wouldn't you reuse the clips off of the old (factory) hotend instead of rewiring the whole thing? There shouldn't be a difference in wiring schematic, correct?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+goldensubaru22 Absolutely Correct. In my case the clips prevented the carriage from zeroing because they were so large bundled together. And I much enjoyed the appearance of a sleek 'clipless' wiring.

[@goldensubaru22]

+Novice Expert AH got it. I know I had to do some messing with cable routing to get the clips out of the end stop's way. My V6 should be here in a few days. I finally broke my Hexagon. Plus I've got some TPU from Alchement that won't finish a complete print without messing up on the Hexagon.

[@NoviceExpertise]

+goldensubaru22 TPU, very nice. I should add that to my list of exotic filaments.

[@alexbringas2912]

What's the voltage on the e3d v6? 12v or 24v?

[@NoviceExpertise]

Alex Bringas The E3D v6 comes in either 12 or 24 volts, but Robo 3D power supply requires 12 volts.

[@bobocop5892]

Hi Novice, In What file do i modify the firmware is it in Cura (G-Code)?

[@NoviceExpertise]

Bobocop Well, Cura G-Code and Marlin firmware are separate. But you shouldn't have to change either for the E3D v6.

[@bobocop5892]

Novice Expert So if i use the thermistor that came with the E3D v6 i still don't need to make any changes ?

[@bobocop5892]

Bobocop Back up and printing after a long wait for Robo to send me my broken part. doesn't look like i needed to make any changes with the new thermistor. off topic but i'm going to try and print your x-carriage again and man what a difference your dual filament cooling fans make. Thanks Novice

[@NoviceExpertise]

Bobocop Ah true. Line 132 in configuration.h change 1 to 7 if you use the thermistor E3D supplies. But you shouldn't need to change a thing with G-code Thanks! Glad you like the fan ducts

[@bobocop5892]

Novice Expert Ok, sorry but where would i find the configuration.h file ?

[@RehuelGalzote]

can u also do software configuration?

[@NoviceExpertise]

Software Configuration > Firmware section of this post: community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/e3d-v6-information-installation-guides-and-review.3407/

[@kimw.8061]

Hello can i have you to fix mine this way? How much for service?

[@NoviceExpertise]

I'm sure we can work something out, shipping a large machine like the Robo 3D might be challenging and expensive - feel free to e-mail me and we can discuss details. [e-mail]

[@NoviceExpertise]

If you still want to discuss this feel free to e-mail me [e-mail]

[@fopm008]

Wish it was this easy to install on the R1 Plus. I'm at a total loss.

[@ridge-techmma682]

Marcus I'm in the same boat? Have you learned anything yet?

[@fopm008]

Ridge - Tech & MMA oh yeah got mine going

[@johnallen4030]

can this be installed on the plus?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+John Allen Yup. Be sure to get 1.75, Universal, Direct, 12V (e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal)

[@juanpablocalabro2805]

Hi, what retract settings with e3d v6 in the robo r1. Because I have a retract speed of 15 mm/s and a retract distance 1mm and the filament stucks during it´s printing. www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#grinding-filament That´s happening. I changed temperature and retract settings but this´s still happening. Can you send me the slicer settings that you use

[@NoviceExpertise]

This is the Cura profile I use. I think I use the default retract settings. It my be an issue with oiling and lubrication www.dropbox.com/s/qn2xaehvbygvaym/0.4mm%20Dual%20Nozzle%20%28Robo%20PLA%29.ini?dl=0

[@juanpablocalabro2805]

Thanks, I´ll try with some of this parameters

[@ichidave]

I do not know if you got my private msg on your other video .. would you be willing to to do the mods for me$?

[@NoviceExpertise]

ichidave Sure, you can E-mail me at [e-mail]

[@raim7908]

Did you modify the firmware to be compatible with the new thermistor? They mention a firmware upgrade in this thread. community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/e3d-v6-information-installation-guides-and-review.3407/

[@NoviceExpertise]

RAINIER MENDOZA Yes, change the thermistor table from 1 to 5 if you are using the thermistor that came with the E3D v6. I used a different thermistor in this video so it slipped my mind.

[@raitheslacker]

Novice Expert do you know if the stock thermistor will fit into the ed3 v6?

[@llslimjadyll]

So I just figured out that it was e3d that sent me a fan that short circuited and destroyed my ramps board😡

[@NoviceExpertise]

+llslimjadyll oh no! Have you contacted the support center?

[@llslimjadyll]

yes, i also realized the fan did not short cicuit, but somthing in that circuit did, very upseting but im still trying to figure things out...

[@NoviceExpertise]

+llslimjadyll Hope all goes well, and the next Ramps board does not meet the same fate.

[@doodle4532]

your the best

[@michaelberna987]

The best drill size I was able to find is #20. It is only 1-2 thousandths bigger than the teflon and makes a perfect hole even when hand drilled without a drill-press. Thanks for sharing the video, keep on -trucking- *PRINTING!* P.S. if you want to be lazy, solder connectors to the E3D parts and use the existing wiring. Makes maintenance easier also. www.ebay.com/itm/10Pairs-15cm-Long-JST-SM-2Pins-Plug-Male-to-Female-Wire-Connector-AD-/112171948028?hash=item1a1df817fc:g:lEQAAOSwa~BYWmIv