Expert Mods: Perfect Upgrades Robo 3D R1 (Ver 2)

[@arsaeterna4285]

you have an amazing personality not only do you speak very well and are full of energy but you also don't make those cheesy fake facial expressions that trained tv and vlog people make really reads as honest and credible

[@MarcusArmstrong037]

The carriage looks really sharp in white. I might have to do that with my Robo. Even without the RGB lights, it just matches the printer so much better.

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Marcus Armstrong I completely agree

[@racing8872]

Thanks for all the great upgrade Videos Because off your support of this product and the helpful videos i went and bought a new Robo 3D R1 Plus. There are a heck of a lot of improvements on the new model. The top supports and now built into the case. New upgraded Z Rods.The hot end is now mounted with a latch clip (no longer two screws at the top ) and you no longer get the SD card reader with the unit

[@vcancer]

Glad to see you back. School must of taken a lot of your time up that you stop making videos. Can't wait to see more. And welcome back.

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Victor Vazquez Glad someone knows. In my spare time I try to record and edit, but I don't have much free time.

[@bamhm182]

I would absolutely love to see some documentation on your upgrading to dual extruders.

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Dylan Wilson Set up my Bowden tube this weekend, video should be up by Wednseday

[@bamhm182]

+Novice Expert I saw it pop up for a second, but it was removed before I had the chance to watch it. Was this intentional? Also, can we get the gcode you used to move your carriage away from the bed to spray it down before starting?

[@TheModShopCO]

Nice update, cant wait for the dual extruder setup!

[@nonmindo]

Looking forward to a video about the firmware upgrades, I'm wanting to update Marlin so I can use an I2C OLED LCD controller

[@theritespark]

Hi, great video, do you happen to know the specs of the ribbon cable you use for the heated bed, my printer has the old design and the cable gets stuck underneath most of the time

[@inchman656]

nice job! thanks for your work on the fan ducts, its a fantastic addition

[@josepht1575]

Marquis, fantastic mod list. I'll have to pimp out my R1 with some of these. +1 Subscribed! I'm definitely intrigued with your dual extrusion endeavor.

[@Mickice]

Very cool with the LEDs.

[@Wander.Fleaux.Productions]

I cannot find an LCD controller anywhere?? Any tips or links yall could point me to?

[@dragnet53]

LOL That Oiler I saw looks like my vape coil on my Crown mod. I might have to use some of my japanese cotton for this when I get my 3d printer back online. I have only used my 3d printer twice before my hexagon extruder jammed. I bought an e3d v6 and waiting for it. but since dismantling it, I sort of know my 3d printer inside and out thanks to your videos. I though don't like this wade extruder and seen people not use one.

[@NoviceExpertise]

+dragnet53 I'm about to change to a Bowden system, you might like how that looks. The motor is mounted at the top of the 3D printer instead of on the carriage.

[@dragnet53]

+Novice Expert I'd like to see a step-by-step installation of that as well if you don't mind. :)

[@paulbracher5538]

Hi There, I just bought a new R1+ and it will not print the first layer the extrude is too close to the deck, is there any way to adjust the tip height (Z) when its done with its calibration? I cannot print anything without pushing down on the deck plate, contacted Robo3d and got crickets :( . I would appreciate any help you could give, best Regards, P.

[@Archania]

Hi there. I am trying to locate what you did for the Z stabilizers. The ones you are using are not the same as the link that you posted. Really like your design better then having to unscrew each and every time. Keep up the great work!

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Archania The author changed it, It isn't a required piece (I took mine off) but I'll share my Dropbox link with you if you still want it: bit.ly/1ZIQS0k

[@pawelp7316]

I cannot find the extruder anywhere, I want to print everything in white too!! It looks too cool!

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Pawel P Are you referring to the Titan? e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder

[@jeremiahwhiting3709]

Love the videos and they have helped quiet a bit. Personally though still having a lot of problems and seem to be doing nothing but spinning my wheels trying to figure out the issues. Hopefully I will get the bugs worked out though.

[@NoviceExpertise]

+jeremiah whiting Took me awhile to get all the bugs worked out, I still have to fix some bugs when I install new upgrades.

[@jeremiahwhiting3709]

+Novice Expert I can understand that. just send that the print quality is no where like it should be, not sure what the best settings are for the motors and just all around issues lol

[@DesertRoadsEntertainment]

I WANT TO GET THE LEDS ON MY R1 plus, that is sick!!!

[@ROBINHOOD-oq9td]

When will the new video with the duel extruders be coming?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+ROBINHOOD66 kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZ7ZpmmshpWWl80

[@Maltesaa]

You should make a video on the firmware upgrade

[@NoviceExpertise]

Will definitely do that soon (have more free time now)

[@ericsampson3957]

I have watched your videos (AWSOME JOB, GREAT INFO) trying to find the start G code that you are running and haven't been able to locate it. Can you send me a link or post it here?

[@ericsampson3957]

Just found it below. Thanks.

[@gjheydon]

The ribbon cable mod. Is that running the power for your heated bed? Can a ribbon cable handle that much power?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Gordon Heydon Alone no, in parallel yes. It's a ten wire ribbon cable; two wires are used for the thermistor and the other eight hold the power of the heater. Four for negative, and four for positive.

[@robmangano9522]

Hey Marquis, the Z-Stabilizer you link to appears to be different from the one you have installed on your printer. I searched for the one you have installed (the snap in piece) and I can't find it anywhere. Can you throw us a link to that one?

[@NoviceExpertise]

Doesn't exist anymore, but I remade it. Here you are: bit.ly/2jh1WWP

[@ssendam757]

The link you gave for the Z Stabilizer doesn't look like the one you have on your printer. I came from your older video where the one you had snapped in. The one you've linked, bolts in. Do you have the link to the one you printed by chance?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+ssendaMFPV The author changed it, It isn't a required piece (I took mine off) but I'll share my Dropbox link with you if you still want it: bit.ly/1ZIQS0k

[@NoviceExpertise]

+ssendaMFPV The author changed it, It isn't a required piece (I took mine off) but I'll share my Dropbox link with you if you still want it: bit.ly/1ZIQS0k

[@silverbullet126]

Great video, I have an R1 (Kickerstart edition) and all these mods are helping out so much :) You'll wanna check your video links, seems they don't work.

[@dragnet53]

+Douglas Roberts yeah seems they didn't validate or something. I noticed that same problem.

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Douglas Roberts Just fixed them now.

[@doubleHLabs]

excited for the next video now

[@LawsonJames808]

do you have any videos on how to "restore" one that is running rough? It makes grinding noises and is not leveling right. By my own assessment it is need of a tune up.

[@NoviceExpertise]

I do not, but Thomas Sanladerer does bit.ly/2y2kIpd

[@braquemorgancarter1964]

Help...I have a Robo 3D printer but downloaded the software directly from Matter Control. For some reason when I attempt to print I get an error message that tells me to "Switch-off automatic bed leveling" or reset print filament (code C29) ( I can only control X,Y, & Z, axis and extruder movement manually) How do I eliminate this code so that I can print the calibration ring automatically? Thanks, Carter.

[@NoviceExpertise]

I would recommend making a detailed thread about your issue on the Robo3D forum. There is always someone there to help me when I need help diagnosing.Me on the other hand have work and school, help from me may not be to consistent. Community forum link: community.robo3d.com/index.php

[@DaedalusProps]

Yo Marquis, do you advise a hot end/extruder upgrade for this model?

[@NoviceExpertise]

To be completely honest, my Robo 3D R1 was at peak performance with an E3D v6, and a Titan Extruder; single Bowden setup. Why Titan Bowden Extruder? The weight of the motor + extruder combo wasn't on the carriage giving me excellent wall quality and speed. Why E3D v6 Hotend? The E3D with a 40w cartridge gives me fast temp requests and holds temp easily even with fans at full power. Recommendations: Thermocouple to achieve higher and more accurate temps with the same hotend.

[@LawsonJames808]

Love your site and I am going to apply most of your upgrades. Are you having issues upgrading the firmware on your printer?

[@NoviceExpertise]

Sometime. Every now and then the version of Arduino I have won't upload my code. I use release candidates of the Marlin Firmware.

[@jeremiahhuggins4061]

can't seem to find your modlist on here....getting an R1 Plus, since I can't afford an R2. really like your upgrade videos and that will be the first thing I do once I get it(next month). help locating the list please?

[@jeremiahhuggins4061]

disgregard...I am a major idiot lol. thanks for the no response :)

[@NoviceExpertise]

Glad you found it

[@josh_m]

Just ordered an R1+ today. :)

[@regor2009]

You're videos are always very informative. I like you're new hair-cut!! Thinking of upgrading the heated bed to AC with a SSR for switching. Are there any firmware updates needed in order to accomplish this?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+regor200 Hmm, there shouldn't be anything you'd have to change except maybe a PID tune. Are your wiring the transistor output as the inputs for the relay?

[@gjheydon]

Also the links to the other youtube videos seem to be poked :( the url has been truncated

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Gordon Heydon Just fixed them all.

[@mattsiler9362]

Do You know if I can add a Bondtech QR 1.75 extruder to my robo r1 plus? Will i need to do anything to my firmware? I was trying to look it up and couldn't find it anywhere. Maybe you can help?

[@NoviceExpertise]

From an engineering mind you can add anything to anything, it just might be difficult. If I can get my hands on one I'll see if it's easy enough to do.

[@stratman1234]

Are you going to get the Robo 3D R2? I hear it's expected to come out in April or May 2016.

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Paul Phillips Possibly, my Robo 3D R1 runs like a dream though

[@petersharma755]

Have a link for a newest marlin firmware, and/or a guide?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Peter Sharma RC3 (beta firmware): community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/marlin-firmware-upgrade-1-1-0-release-candidate-4-for-r1-r1-plus.5806/page-12 Stock Robo: guide.robo3d.com/Wiki/ROBO_3D_Firmware_Release_Notes

[@AnthonyM1]

Hi, all mods done on the Robo 3D R1 Plus??

[@NoviceExpertise]

+TonyMegadeth I technically own a Robo 3D R1, but most of these mods are compatible. Most are performance mods are unnecessary because the Robo 3D R1 Plus comes with them stock, like the leadscrew upgrade.

[@boldslayer]

Hello Marquis, really nice channel you have going on, congrats!!, I have a question I hope you can help me, have you been able to print good parts with ninjaflex on the RObo 3d R1? if so what did you change from the original machine to be able to print ninja flex?

[@NoviceExpertise]

I have not had any good experiences with any flexible filament on any extruder, hotend, or printer I have used. I just kind of gave up on it to tackle another day.

[@boldslayer]

Thank you anywway!!

[@roughboy99]

Have you try octoprint ?

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Hector Diaz Not yet, but I have a Raspberry Pi just lying around, so I might try it out when I leave the dorms.

[@3dpyromaniac560]

yeah, how long are the leads for the dual coolers

[@NoviceExpertise]

+3D pyromaniac Mine are about 5 inches, but it depends on the length you need from the fans to the connector.

[@3dpyromaniac560]

Novice Expert thanks

[@BreakingElegance]

I will be doing this dto mine soon

[@nathanclifford-t7e]

Hi i just fixed my printer and was wondering what you use for the gcode

[@NoviceExpertise]

Start: M107; FANS OFF M140 S{print_bed_temperature} M104 S{print_temperature} G91; RELATIVE POSITIONING G1 Z2; RAISE 2MM G28; HOME ALL AXIS M84; KILL MOTORS M109 S{print_temperature} G1 F10000 Z2; RAISE Z-AXIS TO 2MM G90; ABOSOLUTE POSITIONING G1 X5 Y5; MOVE CLOSE TO HOME G28; HOME ALL AXIS G29; PROBE BED M190 S{print_bed_temperature} G1 Z100; RAISE Z-AXIS TO 150MM G92 E0; ZERO EXTRUDER G1 E10; PRIME NOZZLE M140 S69; SPRAY BED M25; WAIT FOR USER (SD REQ FOR PAUSE) G92 E0; ZERO EXTRUDER G1 F{travel_speed}; START M140 S{print_bed_temperature} End: M106; FANS ON G91; RELATIVE POSITIONING G1 E-5; RETRACT 5MM G90; ABOSOLUTE POSITIONING G92 E0; ZERO EXTRUDER M140 S5; HEATED BED OFF G1 F10000; SET FEEDRATE FAST G1 X5 Y5; MOVE CLOSE TO HOME G28 X0 Y-45; HOME X/Y-AXIS G1 F15000 X0 Y200; MOVE Y TO BACK G1 F15000 X220 Y200; MOVE X TO MIDDLE G1 F15000 Z1; MOVE DOWN M84; TURN MOTORS OFF M104 S1; EXTRUDER HEATER OFF

[@NolanCreate]

Marquis do you not have a need for an M565 or just leaving out as that is usually individual to each printer? If you were to add would you place it between the G28 and 29? or after. Thank you for posting this.

[@NoviceExpertise]

I believe I used to put it before the G29, but recently I program the offset through the firmware and if it's too high I adjust it with "baby stepping". That allows my to adjust the Z height as the printer is starting out to make sure each print is perfect.

[@NolanCreate]

+Novice Expert thanks for the info I will take a look in my code. I'll have to look in to the firmware and babysteping that seems like it would yield better results.

[@williamwinter3795]

my name is Bill I am having problems with my Robo 3d printer the other day I tried to hook up a 80mm fan to the Arduino board and something got fried I thought maybe it was the power supply so I bought a new one rewired it and it still is not powering on can you tell me what might be the problem since I replaced the power supply I am stumped please help me I'm thinking that it may have something to do with the Arduino board what do you think

[@NoviceExpertise]

I would remove the fan because it might be due to a short and see if it powers. If it doesn't then you may need to replace the Ramp board or the Arduino mega. I'd ask the Robo3d forum to help, they are great at diagnosing hardware.

[@williamwinter3795]

Thanks for the advice i have had nothing but trouble with this printer since i bought it i have had to replace the power supply twice so far i just ordered another power supply and an on/off switch for it to see if that would fix the problem i checked the switch with a multi meter and i'm not getting any power from the switch to the power supply so that is why i am thinking that it maybe the switch is bad if that doesn't work i will try something different

[@williamwinter3795]

could you send me a wiring diagram for the power switch on the robo 3d r1 plus printer please my new switch is suppose to be here tomorrow and i need to know how the wires are connected to the on/off switch I want to see if the wiring diagram is the same as the way the wires came off the old switch I wrote them down but i just want to see if they are the same as what i have

[@andresinaga9877]

Bro, I just bought my R1 and I just start to learn how to use this printer. I made a whistle as the first, it was perfect. But after I changed the filament, it keeps trying to print in the air. Can you help me bro.Thanks a lot

[@NoviceExpertise]

Printing in the air sounds like a misalignment of your Z axis. I recommend this video bit.ly/2ffJmLl

[@rosebarrette6292]

Can you come over and do this to my ROBO? I wish!

[@NoviceExpertise]

I have for others, but you'd have to live in Las Vegas

[@rosebarrette6292]

@@NoviceExpertise Can I ship?

[@BreakingElegance]

You are a beast

[@scifideity]

Love this list! So far I've knocked out: Spool Holder Printer Feet Filament Quick Change Full Graphics LCD Controller Oiler Next up is Wire Chain but I'm probably going to go with this mount www.thingiverse.com/thing:1154650 instead to avoid a tear down of the X carriage (for now). After that I might give the RGB LEDs a try. I want to get some good use out of the R1+ before I take modification to the next level with the E3D v6 and X carriage mod to match the wire chain. :)

[@NoviceExpertise]

+Shawn Hill Sounds exciting, I'm glad other people enjoy modifying their printer like I do. Love that wire chain you linked, might have to use that next teardown myself.

[@scifideity]

+Novice Expert I posted my make www.thingiverse.com/make:210443 with pics. During my test it was fine but when I fired up a print that ran for awhile I came to check it and found that the length of chain is a bit too long for stability and it flopped towards the Z rods and got caught on the left and uncoupled from the bracket on the motor. It was still printing and no damage but I"m glad I caught it. As a test I anchored the chain with some painters tape about 6" from the grate plate and ran another print. It performed much better that time with no problems. I'm experimenting with an L type bracket to stick to the cover to do the same job as the painters tape. Something to just keep the chain upright and in line with its X movement but that will also allow for easy cover removal. I'll update my make on thingiverse with my findings and solution once I'm done.

[@scifideity]

+Novice Expert I found a solution that is working so far. You have better skills than I at modeling so you might be able to come up with a better solution. I just found a file that had the look I wanted and scaled it to work. I updated my make post here www.thingiverse.com/make:210442. I'm definitely interested in anything you come up with to improve upon this :)