Exposure Basics : Explained | Ask David Bergman

Today's question from Kumar A. is, "Why is it that photos of a board that is half white and half black are grey when shot individually. But when both white and black parts are shot in a single frame, they appear to be white and black? Please explain."
Go to www.AskDavidBergman.com to submit your photo question, see David's gear list, and view the episode archive.
00:00 Intro
00:54 What is exposure?
02:00 Manual vs. auto exposure
02:49 Photoshoot
04:46 TTL vs. manual flash exposure
07:29 Why is a photo grey instead of black and white?
08:00 Exposure for half light and half dark
08:44 Metering modes
09:31 Outro
As Luke Combs' tour photographer since 2019, David Bergman has documented the historic rise of the reigning CMA Entertainer of the Year both on stage and off. But that's only the latest in Bergman's own storied 30+ year career. He spent nearly a decade traveling the world with Bon Jovi and has toured with other artists including Barenaked Ladies, Sarah McLachlan, and Gloria Estefan. As a sports photographer, he covered numerous Olympics, Super Bowls, and World Series games, and has 13 Sports Illustrated covers to his credit. He's also photographed eight US Presidents, the Queen of England, and Cuban dictator Fidel Castro. However, his proudest accomplishment is his work as a photo educator, where he has given back to the industry that has treated him so kindly. Through his unique "Shoot From the Pit" live concert workshops, Bergman has taught hundreds of aspiring music photographers in a real-world setting. His work as a Canon Explorer of Light, Adorama KZbin host, and public speaker has also helped photographers around the world to advance their own photography skills.
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Canon RF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Lens
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Manfrotto Befree GT XPRO Carbon Fiber Travel Tripod with MH496 Ball Head & 200PL-PRO Quick Release Plate
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Back to Basics Videos:
Shutter Speed - • Shutter Speed Basics |...
Aperture - • Aperture Basics | Ask ...
ISO - • ISO Basics | Ask David...
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THANKS SO MUCH FOR WATCHING!

[@fountainvalley100]

Excellent presentation. For the last decade I’ve been linking the exposure to the autofocus point when I’m leaving the camera in an auto mode. It has worked well. All my flash work is always a manual process.

[@michalkubecek]

Thank you. This is one of the very few tutorials on this topic which does mention the important fact that for quite some time, cameras are using evaluative metering by default which, while not perfect, is much smarter than the trivial "average the whole scene and let the average be middle grey". After all, the examples in the video clearly demonstrated that even if the face took only very small part of the image, the exposition was in fact much closer to what would one want than to what would the trivial "average the whole scene" yield (if the auto exposure worked that way, the background brightness would have to be almost the same in both cases).

[@felixrodriguez782]

It pays to know one style so the image is set with the right exposer for the image style one is capturing in the camera. So the key is knowing manual mode once the shot is set up to shoot in controling the light to the subject matter depending what style one trying to capture Great Demo David

[@jonny7943]

I always bring along a grey card. It gives me a good starting point..

[@Black_Jesus3005]

Thanks David

[@HippyNZ]

nothing wrong with using aperture priority etc if you know what and why you are doing and know how to meter off 1 part of the photo and adjust exposure compensation. Manual is not the only way to get good photos. I mostly use manual, but there are times when i use 1 of the semi-auto options to get what i want

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

There is no "one way" to do anything when creativity is involved. I prefer the consistency of manual, but if Av works well for you, then go for it! :)

[@marchinderickx8193]

Excellent demo! A good reason to use a light meter.

[@gewglesux]

Agreed! Love using a meter..

[@photo2000]

Great explanation 👍 I think it's also important to note, that light meters, whether in camera or the handheld ones you can buy, are trying to get light it receives to appear middle grey or 18% grey. This explains why they are trying to make black brighter and white darker.

[@sijilo]

😊

[@gewglesux]

Anyone in here still use Pocket Wizards? Thinking of getting a set.

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

I use them every concert to trigger remote cameras. They are still the gold standard for that. I don't use them for flash anymore since the flash companies all make pretty good radio transmitters now with full functionality.

[@gewglesux]

@@DavidBergmanPhoto Hey, David thanks for the reply. Does this mean that the PW'S are not capable of Full functionality? I think they're a tad more expensive that might be why people are looking elseware. Thanks again.

[@yosefco]

David says the face detection is ralated to the metering? i dont think its wright. there is no such metering as face detection.

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

There actually is. Some of the more advanced metering modes in the most recent Canon cameras, for example, can be set to give exposure priority to a face when it is detected. :)

[@yosefco]

@@DavidBergmanPhotohi, I'm using r5. Updated.. don't think I've seen it

[@traderpete007]

So when we buy our really expensive strobes and they charge us $200 each more for TTL…. We should run for the hills :). Uggh just bought 4 Adorama’s ad600pro ttl’s. Should have saved the extra cash

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

TTL is good for getting you in the ballpark, and very good when you're "run and gun" and the distances are changing from frame to frame. But for a portrait where the light and the subject are always the same distance? It's manual for me every time.

[@b991228]

So it stirs the soup before you taste it.