Extend Your Brake Life! How to Lubricate Caliper Slider Pins for Honda/Acura

[@byronakhavi953]

Great video and well explained. You must not use anti seize on those bolts. The torque spec is a dry spec. for all Hondas. Also, never put grease on the tip of the pin. It may cause the pin to hydro lock. This is a common mistake. The caliper pin bolt threads must be cleaned with a wire wheel or brush (fully cleaned). The the mating threads need to be cleaned. Then you torque the bolts to spec. The caliper bracket should be removed and cleaned. Grease applied, very lightly, to the area the pads ride. Then place light grease under the area the hardware clips sit. The hardware needs to be cleaned to ensure the pads can move. Lubing the pins is only part of the job. The bracket and hardware cleaning is essential and anti-seize has no place on brake components. You present well and covered the requirements. However, a proper service will require the caliper bracket to be serviced along with the slide pins. This ensures the caliper will float properly.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thanks for the comment! Good tip about not putting silicone to the end of the slider pin. Putting antiseize on the caliper bolts is okay for this vehicle. I know other makes and models could potentially even ask for thread locker, so every vehicle is different. Living in the rust belt, if I didn't add antiseize, these bolts would be a PITA to remove. If you've watched any of my other videos, you will see I'm definitely an advocate for torque specs. This is one of very few instances where I recommend snugging the bolt by hand as I'm aware the antiseize will alter the torque. I've done this for over 10 years and 164k miles and never had the bolts come loose. If I could remake this video, I would have added applying grease to the pad as well. This part is included in my most recent brake video. Otherwise, lubing the pins and bracket sliders has made my rear brakes last 89k and front brakes (so far) 92k miles! Thanks for watching!

[@byronakhavi953]

@@trailerhater When you give false advice, give it someone who doesn't know any better. Save the BS and keep it yourself!!

[@Zeek800]

Antiseize changes the torque settings. This is a fact that an engineer will confirm. One thing that probably worked in your favour is the very low amount of torque required for the calliper slide pin’s bolts which is usually 25-27 lb feet . What you can use on those bolts is a very small dab of blue lock tight. If the slide pin’s bolts are difficult to remove, use a breaker bar. Also in some cases turning the bolt will spin the slide pin. I use a thin vies grip to hold the slide pin until I can break the bolt loose.

[@byronakhavi953]

Thanks for the tip!! Appreciate it!!@@Zeek800

[@Ragas07]

This is THE right way to clean and lube the caliper pins and I follow the same meticulous steps that you took. What most people and service stations over look is that it is equally Important to clean the caliper guide holes and rubber boots. Most of them just remove the caliper pin, wipe the old grease, apply some new and push the pin back in without bothering cleaning up the old junk inside the caliper guide hole and the rubber boot. This eventually either leads to worn out pins which are cheap to replace or even worse, worn out caliper guide holes. In the latter the caliper assembly has to be replaced which Is rather expensive. I use brake cleaner spray to dissolve old grease and gunk inside the guide hole and the rubber boot. The brake cleaner is supposed to be safe on brake rubber parts. You could give it a try the next time. This will result in a even better cleaning of the guide holes and rubber boot. The gunk and grease adhered to the rubber boot just dissolves and fall off resulting in a clean rubber boot on the inside

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you! It's the small things that matter! I agree with using brake cleaner to further clean out the guide hole in the caliper. However, I would be cautious about using it on the rubber boots as my can of Brakleen says to protect all rubber brake parts. Maybe that's a difference from one brand of brake cleaner to another, I'm not entirely sure.

[@Ragas07]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I use STP brake cleaner and have used it across multiple brands of vehicles, there is no ill effect on any rubber parts. I prefer the rubber boot to be fully clean and dry on the inside. Very particular about it.

[@Michaelcneumann]

Great video I just recommended to my daughter as she does her first brake job without dads help!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Awesome! You should be very proud of her!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I realize at 6:39 I put the paper towel on the ground, but that was because I only had one hand available while filming. It wasn’t until after uploading that I realized this looked bad in a DIY video. I can assure you all I cleaned it properly and thoroughly off camera! This car is my baby with over 321,000 miles and I take very good care of it!

[@rdkirk3834]

I also smear a thin coating of silicon grease all around the outside of the boots as a protectant and preservative. In fact, all the rubber boots of the steering and drive systems would last longer with an annual coating of silicon spray or grease. But since I have silicon grease on my fingers already as I'm doing my brakes, I just give the boots their application while I'm handling them.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@rdkirk3834 that’s a very good point! Never a bad idea to rejuvenate them and maintain their condition

[@Spencermx]

It’s so nice to find simple and pleasant to listen to explainers on KZbin. Thanks!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

You’re very welcome! I like to thoroughly explain everything in my videos, glad it was helpful!

[@vanwahlgren8451]

Nicely done, my only recommendation would be before you start use brake cleaner to clean this up nicely. And also something which I was unaware of it so you can buy a brake pin boot kit to replace the boots

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thanks for the tip! I tried buying an aftermarket kit once and the boots didn’t fit. Thanks for watching!

[@ojofelixnm3608]

Looks exactly like the front calipers on my 04 Camry. Honda and Toyota must use the same vendor for their calipers.

[@toknowlj]

very nicely done - yes the 3m lube you use is the recommended stuff. oddly most parts stores in our area and Eastern WA do not have this (some hadnt heard of it?) wow I had to order a bottle of it online and it took awhile getting here and works great [on fleabay it was under $17] shipping included. :) I have a Subaru outback and a few others that have these same slider pin designs. [size varies, but very similar other wise] the process you show is what my outback needs about every year at least as our roads are dusty! (drive on dirt awhile and you will see] I should do as you, but twice a year as I replace the air filter and wiper blades every fall and every spring. its dusty in summer and that winter stuff makes stuff gritty as well - its not salt on the roads, but sure builds up deposits that are easier to replace the parts than to clean. [except the stout metal bolts,just cleaning is needed and some antisieze (a lill bit will do)]

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Good deal on the 3M! Maybe prices have come down a bit since I bought mine! I don't live in a dusty area, but I'm sure it poses its own struggles and challenges in maintenance. Glad my videos could be helpful to you!

[@kalani1987]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Actually, silicone lube can get hard and sticky over time. Better to use a high ceramic content grease like Ceramlub.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@kalani1987 Any brake lubricant can get hard over time, even Ceramlub. All the more reason to relubricate every 1-3 years depending on your driving conditions. I've been using 3m silicone for quite some time now and never had a problem.

[@MRIMPOSSIBLE2c]

This really saved me time, money, and sanity! Awesome vid G

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I'm glad my video could be helpful! Thanks for watching!

[@Dia1Up]

I've been looking for a video about servicing pins. They all seem to start "so here are the links" they are already removed from the vehicle, they just lube it and call it a video

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Yah it's annoying! That's why I decided to start making a few videos here and there! Thanks for watching!

[@angeldetierra3855]

► I just had my brake pads replaced.... I noticed that the rear pads were worn out unevenly on the rear axle. --- Should have this work been done on my brakes as part of the brake job? --- If I want this work done. How much would this cost? Thanks for the great video and the detailed explanation !

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

any time the pads and rotors are replaced, everything should be relubricated. I would guess if you took your car to a dealership, $100-125, less if you had a local mechanic do it.

[@angeldetierra3855]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple ► I took it to a local mechanic shop that tried to replace all the rotors. Neither the mechanic or the owner explained the reason why the pads were worn unevenly on the rear right wheel. Now I know. Thanks for your reply and video!

[@softech120]

Can I just add, one of the common reasons for uneven rear brake pad wear on of 10-15 year old honda’s is incorrect installation. On the rear caliper pistons there is a cross cut slot and they are for rotating the piston in order for it to retract to install new pads. On the pad there is little raised dot, that acts as a guide and it needs to sit in that cross cut slot, so basically the caliper piston needs to be rotated precisely so that guide of the pad sits in the slot, if it doesn’t then the piston will apply pressure on the raised guide of the pad causing the caliper piston not being flush in the pad when brakes are applied and so you get uneven pad wear.

[@angeldetierra3855]

@@softech120 ► Thanks! -- Now everything looks fine.

[@jackskarl69]

Open end wrenches can range from 6mm right up to 36mm in metric at least here in New Zealand.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Yah if I went to Home Depot, most tool kits and wrench sets come with about 10 metric wrenches maxing out at 20mm. If I wanted anything larger, I'd have to specifically buy the X-Large wrench kit which comes with 6 wrenches between 21-30mm. Anything larger than that, I'd have to order online.

[@jackskarl69]

Hard case alright in NZ at Repco or Supercheap Auto which is like your guys Home Depot. Our wrench set's are sold as a full complete set from 6-36mm same with imperial set's. But we also have smaller set's to. Anything larger than 36mm you buy as a single wrench. I have to say I have brought a lot of tools from USA, Germany, UK, and Japan because you pay a arm and a leg for decent tools here.

[@ucantcmed6056]

Great job, you're a great step by step teacher.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you!! I'm glad my video was helpful!

[@kokphengtoh2600]

Front toque for slide pins should be 33 nm . Rear 23 without anti seize FOR Honda Civic toque.

[@1marcelfilms]

I clean the pin holes with wd40 and a pipe brush on a drill. I had to do it 5 times before it came out clean. Then blow out the wd40 with compressed air

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Yah the pin holes can get pretty dirty and rusty if not cleaned for a while. Had to do something similar on my dads truck recently, the dirt just wouldn’t stop coming out! Thanks for watching!

[@Tom-gr9ii]

Saw there was a lot of lubricant on the tip of caliper pin. The grease is not compressible so excess grease on the tip of pin can cause pin not push all the way in during the regular operation.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Hydro locking shouldn’t be an issue since there should be enough room between the slider pin and the bore of the hole that the silicone could work it’s way around. This only tends to be an issue on brakes with a rubber ring on the slider pin where if the incorrect grease is used, it causes that rubber to swell and prevent the passage of excess grease, thus hydro locking the pin. My car does not have this rubber ring and I have had no problems over the last 167k miles. Nonetheless, you are right. It is better to not put silicone on the very tip of the slider bolt. But also make sure you are using the correct grease and to not apply too much.

[@pentiuman]

Great Video!!! I would only suggest that one wear disposable gloves when doing this maintenance job - maybe even those yellow, thicker ones you see used for washing dishes. Because, grease and brake dust is not good for your skin, and the gloves also give you some protection from cuts - another common hazard when working on cars.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thanks for watching! And thanks for the tip!

[@michaelreeves8164]

Great video, thank you. I shall now check my 2014 CX-5. One thing I think I saw. Did the rotors show signs of wear?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

No that’s just simple surface rust from sitting and not being driven for a couple days. I actually still have these same front rotors on my car to this day!

[@michaelreeves8164]

Thank you for clearing that up for an amateur like me.

[@drjimjam1112]

Using a round wire brush to clean out the carrier would be a nice touch.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

You certainly could do that! Just as long as it’s being cleaned one way or another, that’s what’s important.

[@mrm2689]

Beautifully explained

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Mr M thank you! Glad it was helpful!

[@georgemallory797]

Fantastic video, sir. Thanks so much!!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful!

[@fabrivila2774]

Thank you very much for the information. In my country there is no such silicone paste, with what other grese can I replace it?. Is it posible to use the grese of the CV axel? Thanks for answering!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Use anything that is synthetic and safe to use with rubber and has a wide temperature tolerance. Do NOT use anything petroleum-based. Anything with the title along the lines of silicone, sil-glyde, brake caliper grease, or synthetic grease is what you wanna look for. It's usually pretty easy to find at any automotive store, and the workers should know exactly what you would need.

[@olenaerhardt7725]

What about such product as Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant #24125? Is it good for the Slide Pins. I applied this product on my 2009 Nissan Sentra when replaced Front Brakes there, but then read somewhere (I believe on Amazon in comments), than one shop started to use that product and all the cars w/Slide Pins being lubricated w/Ceramic Extreme came back after 6 month, since the Sliding Pins were not moving well, and when they opened the caliper the product got crumbled, smth like that. Copilot AI advised w/this product, and though I always used before 3M Silicone on those pins, I decided to apply Ceramic Extreme, thinking it is a better product, since designed for brakes. I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. maybe Ceramic Extreme is very good product for brakes, but not for Slide Pins. Thank you for this informative film again.

[@TheCaperfish]

good vid on. slide pins , cleaning the rust from under the abutment clips is just as important if not more important than the slide pins , sorry but ya missed a major part , don't matter if yer slide pins are free if yer pads are rust jacked and froze unable to move , looks like your not in a too rusty of an enviroment but if you are pins and cleaning under abutment clips its a must do every year or gaurenteeded yer gona have brake issues , also ensure you have no silicone on the tip of slide pin or at end of bore ,it can cause hydraulic pressure on the pin and make the pin have outward pressure , see it all the time people shoving too much silicone / grease /antiseeze into the bore , ya only need a light coating

[@irisbaez1972]

I don't recommend anti-seize on caliper pin little bolts, just clean it. and for the caliper holder blue lactide.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I do it mainly because I live in the rust belt and these bolts would otherwise be difficult to remove. It’s a very common practice and I’ve had no problems over the last 12 years owning this car. You are free to not apply antiseize if you feel you don’t need it.

[@prithivraj2187]

This is informative video. Great job Mike.

[@DelinquentDJ]

thanks for the good camera work all these automotive "tutorials" on youtube and no one can really show what theyre doing lmao

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you! That's why I started making my own videos! Glad my video was helpful!

[@getthemusicout3212]

Hi. at 14:44 you mention that all four calipers need to be re-tightened, and that all four calipers had been loosened in order to get access. I can't see where that was done in this video. Did I miss that step or is it covered in a separate video? This is a really helpful video using straight forward advice and no assumed prior knowledge. Thank you.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Very good question! I apologize if my wording might have been confusing. I was referring back to 3:15 when we were tugging on the caliper. What that was doing is pressing the caliper piston backward so we could remove the caliper. But when you put the caliper back on, it's still loose. So pressing the brake pedal a few times at 14:44 will bring the piston back flush against the pads and tighten up the caliper again as it should be. Otherwise, if you just went for a drive without doing that, the first time you push the pedal, nothing would happen and you wouldn't stop because the pistons haven't reached the pads yet. Thanks for watching and I hope that clarifies everything!

[@getthemusicout3212]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Awesome quick reply that has saved me some worry before my first brake service attempt on my 1999 mk4 golf 1.9 TDi. Many thanks. :-)

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@getthemusicout3212 you're very welcome and good luck tackling your first brake service! You'll do great!

[@gilbertgonzalezz9766]

Good job, easy to follow, thanks so much!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you! And thanks for watching :)

[@edzanjero353]

Good vid. Helpful. What might some pedal symptoms be with sticking or siezed pins?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Having to press the pedal harder to brake would be a symptom of seizes pins. A visual inspection of the pads and rotors is the best way to determine how your brakes are holding up before it gets too bad. If it’s really bad, sometimes you can see the brakes smoking, and sometimes even smell them. You could also place your hand near the rotor (without touching it) and feel the rotor be noticeably hotter than the other side.

[@edzanjero353]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple ...thanks again!

[@olenaerhardt7725]

Is Sil-Glyde better than 3M Silicone Dielectric Grease, or it doesn't matter which one to use? I need to apply some brake grease on the Drum Brakes Wheel Cylinders Piston Cups and Boots (Shop Manual for 2009 Nissan Sentra calls for Nissan Rubber Lubricant (KRE12 00030), which I can't find anywhere). I assume the grease inside of the Wheel Cylinders is the same as for the Slide Pistons on the Front Brakes. Thank you very much for the great film and pointing that the sliding pins should be serviced annually.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@olenaerhardt7725 I wouldn’t say there’s a clear winner. There are people who advocate for both. I received the silicone paste recommendation from other popular KZbinrs such as Eric the Car Guy who was a Honda/Acura Master tech. It’s worked great for me and I recommend it! Whatever you use, just make sure it’s silicone based and compatible with rubber. Thanks for watching :)

[@olenaerhardt7725]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thank you very much for the replay. I've applied yesterday on those new Wheel Cylinders a bit of the 3M Silicone Paste, but was glad to have additional confirmation. I know Eric the Car Guy, watched many of his films. On those chemicals, what to apply it is a lot of confusion, not many films on YT about it, tons of products and so many different opinions. Thank you again.

[@olenaerhardt7725]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thank you very much for the replay. I've applied yesterday on those new Wheel Cylinders a bit of the 3M Silicone Paste, but was glad to have additional confirmation. I know Eric the Car Guy, watched many of his films. On those chemicals, what to apply it is a lot of confusion, not many films on YT about it, tons of products and so many different opinions. Thank you again.

[@northernoutdoorsmandave9067]

Thankyou for a great how to job. What is the link on your brake flush video? Are Honda parts any better than after market? Have a great day.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

here's the link! kzbin.info/www/bejne/nprNdJqImZ2Jq7s the brake flush is at the end of the video around 32:22. Definitely use Honda brake fluid, but as far as the rotors and pads go, I use aftermarket for everyday driving, that being Centric rotors and Akebono Ceramic pads. All that information is in the linked video as well!

[@mg8718]

Been using Mobil 1 red grease on those caliper pins for 40 years and zero problems. All these guys saying i got go get some extra special caliper grease for 30.00 are blowing smoke up your asses!

[@blacktactical14]

LIQUI MOLY Synthetic Lubricant for Brake Pins 5 g (21119) Is this product suitable for brake calipers? I would be happy to help

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

You certainly can use that if you wish! It's compatible with rubber, and that's the most important aspect to look for

[@blacktactical14]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple How many pieces should I buy for the front and rear pad caliper and pins? product 5 mg

[@blacktactical14]

Thank you

[@jeffreysanchez7610]

This is a great video! Thanks for the information. Helpful!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Jeffrey Sánchez you’re welcome! I’m glad it could be helpful!

[@manjotsingh27]

Is this used for centrifugal pump shaft ?

[@RefinerSimilitude]

3:16 I just found out you can compress the cylinder before you remove the caliper by sticking a screwdriver or small pry bar in that big hole in the middle of the caliper.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Refiner Similitude nice find! I’ll have to give that a try!

[@RefinerSimilitude]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Just finished. Thanks for showing how to lube the guide pins. I tried several videos before I found yours. If I would have tried to separate the rubber boot from the caliper side, I'd likely be stuck replacing them and from what you said that doesn't sound fun. I torqued one of the wheel lugs off, so I've got enough work cut out for me.

[@jimpie231]

Thanks for your video! Question.....is there a listing to find out which pin goes where on a specific model? I have a 2009 Honda CR-V EXL, it has disc brakes front & rear. Thanks again! Jim PS.....I am hearing a brake release (pinging noise) whenever I stop & then release the brake and start to go. I checked the front brakes and pins are sliding easily (top pin is notched). The rear brakes were done about 10,000 miles ago. Before I take them apart I would like to know if we put the pins in the right places.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Yes, there are diagrams on the parts websites such as hondapartsforless.com. You can then copy the part numbers into google images for comparison. By the looks of it, for the front brakes, the pin with a black tip goes in the top slot. For the rear, the pin with the flat edges machined into the shaft goes in the top slot. I'm not sure exactly what the symptoms of putting the pins in the wrong place are, but it's very possible this is giving you your problems. I always suggest doing each pin one at a time to ensure not getting them mixed up. Here are the links to the diagrams: www.hondapartsforless.com/v-2009-honda-cr-v--ex-l--2-4l-l4-gas/chassis--front-brake www.hondapartsforless.com/v-2009-honda-cr-v--ex-l--2-4l-l4-gas/chassis--rear-brake

[@jimpie231]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thanks for the info! I was able to verify the front pins, but not the back, pictures not clear......etc. I will go by your info. Thanks again! Jim

[@viewlesswind]

Noob here wants to know what torque wrench you recommend for removing and installing tires. Thanks

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

There certainly are a lot of brands out there. I personally recommend CDI torque wrenches. They’re owned by Snap-On and get rave reviews by pretty much everyone including myself. They’re a little expensive at about $150, but IMO torque accuracy isn’t something you want to cheap out on.

[@viewlesswind]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thanks for the quick reply. But it looks like you used an impact wrench in the video tho.

[@angelisone]

ATG, I and KZbin's mechanics applied anti-seize lube to prevent broken bolts upon removal. I even go further by applying a little thread lock at the end on the bolts & applied *silicone on the Bolt Head and face of the Calibers, after torqued those bolts down. *ATG high temp silicone sealant applied end of Bolt Head to contact frame surface of caliber. By doing that my men/women/I can inspect it later. If the bolt loosen, you can tell by looking at the silicone. We applied/done on Aston Marton/Bugatti/Koenigsegg/Lamborghini/simple Porsche down to regular Honda. Anyone of you done an oil change on a car & charges over $29,000.00 and clients love & still come back to you? How about getting rid of the TMPS sensors for $98,000.00? Now, mind you these vehicles NEVER seen salt or snow! Yes, I have and so did my staff, just like Car Repairs Made Simple, have used lube on bolts.

[@SSDIY77168]

Very good video

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@SSDIY77168 thank you! Thanks for watching

[@JAMILNU]

Very clear directions...thanks

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you! and thanks for watching!

[@exquisitefrequencies3835]

Just replaced all 4 brake rotors, including the caliper slider pin boot, really tedious job to do. However, is it natural for brake rotors to emit a smoking smell but not severely since they're setting in? Hopefully it's not serious especially with the rubber boot.

[@exquisitefrequencies3835]

it is a 2011 acura tsx, took a good while to replace all of the brake rotors and slider pins boot.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

This can be normal at first when installing new pads and rotors during the break in procedure. Most new pads have an uneven surface, meaning there’s less overall surface contact with the rotor and those areas will get hotter and cause a burning smell. The break in procedure as indicated by the pad manufacturer is very important to ensure an even amount of surface contact between the pads and rotors. This also prevents problems further down the road including possible poor braking performance, uneven wear, warped discs, and noisy brakes. The only pads I know that don’t have a break in procedure are the Akebono Ultra Ceramic Premium pads. If it doesn’t go away after the first couple days, there might be something wrong with the calipers or the lubrication applied to the slider pins and pads. For more information, I made a separate video on overall installation and the break in procedure.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nprNdJqImZ2Jq7s

[@exquisitefrequencies3835]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thank you at the fullest, very blissful of you.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@exquisitefrequencies3835 you’re very welcome, I enjoy sharing my knowledge on cars with others!

[@richardfabrizio8998]

Nicely done sir. Very helpful. Thanks

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful!

[@mojo888x]

what long term lubrication would you recommend for the bleeder screw threads e.g when I removed my front left brake caliper bleeder screw, it snapped off inside the caliper and was impossible to remove - I had to replace the whole part of the caliper.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Oh man I’m sorry to hear that! I personally don’t use any form antisieze or lubrications on the bleeders as I wouldn’t want it potentially mixing with the brake fluid. When I come across a difficult bleeder, I torch it nice and hot and that helps to remove it. Otherwise if you keep up on your brake fluid changes once every 3 years, you agitate the threads and it will reduce the chance of it getting stuck. If you ever notice a bleeder getting rusty, definitely replace it right away. Otherwise it’s not common for these to break like that if everything is maintained.

[@thehegt]

Can I clean the caliper pins hole with brake cleaner ? Just spray it in to the hole

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

thehegt Tr You can do that! Just make sure you don’t get any brake cleaner on the rubber boots.

[@fabio40]

To get the caliper off and on easier why don't you push the piston back in a bit with a c-clamp?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

You can use a c-clamp too! Especially if the caliper is stiff or seized up! In my case though, I lubricate my calipers every year, so 4 little tugs was enough to loosen and remove it easily, as shown in the video.

[@alanfrancis9225]

Some calliper pistons have to be pushed back clockwise or anti-clockwise. Check your car manual

[@fabio40]

@@alanfrancis9225 I realize that. The rear brakes on one of my vehicles are like that. However this is not the case for this Acura. You can easily see in the video it is a push only piston.

[@MackNNations]

Hondas and Acuras are very similar. Caliper bolts at the slider pins are only tightened to 16 ft lbs. Do you really need anti-seize?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Where I live in the rust belt, yes, it definitely helps!

[@pgreenx]

Is that right to put anti seize on bolts? I was thinking thread lock

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Yah it’s fine, especially for someone like me in the rust belt. Never had any issues doing this. With this being an annual/semi-annual service, it’s also nice for the bolts to come off without much hassle.

[@dylanshabtai4554]

Is it a big deal if you mix up the top and bottom slider pins? I have a 2010 Odyssey and got mixed up. Not sure if I put them back properly 😬

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I'm not really sure why the slider pins aren't the same. I'm also not sure what would happen if you reverse them. But I'm sure the engineers made them different for a reason, so I can only suggest looking at a parts diagram such as hondapartsforless.com and ensuring your pins are in the correct location.

[@next4887]

I am pretty sure the wheel rotation trailing pin has the rubber ring. If the front caliper is toward the front of the hub the rubber anti rattle pin is on the bottom. If the caliper is behind the front hub the pin with the rubber anti rattle o-ring is on the top.

[@myongkim7299]

@@next4887important issue but no one mentioning it searched many hour youtube for this issue. thank you

[@kishanmanpalikhe]

it best you put in brake pad hardware also

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

kishan palikhe wasn’t necessary at the time as my pads had plenty of life left in them still. Lubricating the slider pins is something you should do every year or two, and there would be no reason to change your pads every time. But you definitely could replace the rotors and pads if needed since most of the components are disassembled!

[@mogtrader8]

None of the Permatex grease give clarity if it works on the slider pin. Is this 3M stuff 100% silicone and won't swell?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Yes this 3M silicone paste is very high quality 100% silicone, won't swell, and is recommended by many people!

[@习近平-m5l]

Isn't threatlocker better than anti-seize in this situation?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I have seen on other videos on different cars people recommending threat locker, however, in the rust belt where I live, anti seize is very helpful in removing these bolts annually. As you could see in the video, the bolts were very secure, yet easy enough to remove to make this job hassle free. If you live somewhere else where rust isn’t an issue, maybe then you could try thread locker.

[@CD-bm6rc]

Never put anti-seize on brake part bolts. If anything, use a drop of blue thread lock.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

If you snug them down properly, there shouldn’t be an issue. Here in the Midwest, the rust makes them difficult to remove, so anti-seize helps with that. A lot of people do this, including ETCG

[@CD-bm6rc]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I live in the rust belt and have been doing it for 30 years. Car manufactures never put anti-seize on the bolts but do use thread lock depending on the manufacturer.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@CD-bm6rc yah I have seen the thread lock recommendation, and like you said it depends on the vehicle, but also personal preference.

[@dannynica7480]

you wronggggg, i always do it and never had issues, i live in the north east

[@CD-bm6rc]

@@dannynica7480Nope. Not wrong.

[@takeadrive]

Excellent video ! 👍

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you!

[@takeadrive]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple You're welcome :)

[@johnvem6432]

One video I saw is .. not putting silicon grease on the tip of the bolt

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I have also heard this on occasion. I would presume this shouldn’t be an issue since I personally haven’t had any problems with uneven wear or brake failures due to hydro locking of the slider bolt, and also since there should be enough room between the slider bolt and the bore of the caliper that the silicone could work it’s way around. Nonetheless, you are right. It is better to not put silicone on the very tip of the slider bolt

[@masterblaster6064]

Thanks Kermit!!! Yaaayyy!

[@vongsakra253919]

Do I need to use lock thread on the brake pin when reinstating?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I would say no. I use anti seize never have any issues. These bolts aren’t coming out. Just torque them to spec and you should be good!

[@vongsakra253919]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I break loose oem thread lock and worry abit about it. Your answer is helpful.

[@vongsakra253919]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I went to quiet garden nearby and slammed on brake 20 times to see how reinstalled brake works. It has no issues. I’ll try again tomorrow to ensure safety. Thank you again.

[@agamitzadandanache2379]

Yeah,you did a good job but you forget to check the pads if they are stuck on the rotor mate

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Yah I didn't want to steer away from the main topic of the video, that being caliper pins. However, with everything apart, it makes it easy for everyone to check their pads if they like. I plan on covering that a little more in a future video on pad and rotor replacement. Thanks for watching!

[@Yanbrymenocu]

Ahm where did you buy that silicone paste grease because i used versachem brake grease and they said its not a good grease for guide pins

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@Yanbrymenocu www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=3m+silicone&qid=1567024406&s=gateway&sr=8-4

[@kisunscreation3650]

helpful great video

[@vladpierre2694]

Perfect

[@The123hieu]

hello everyone, can i use molykote 55 oring for caliper pins?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

No do not use that stuff. It’s made to swell rubber components, and you don’t want to use that on these caliper pin boots. I recommend the 3M silicone used in this video. Or you could use a silicone based brake lube such as sil-glyde

[@mahditavazoei7611]

Thank you for the clip, but rolling the tissue on the ground adds dust and sand to it and inserting it into the booth damages the whole caliper reciprocating mechanism.! The tiny sands and dust will never leave the greasy booths and enter the sliders gradually, or you have to put the booths in a bottle half full of a proper solvent and shake it hard for minutes. Then wash them in another bottle with detergent to clean up the solvent. And then shake them in another bottle with clean water to prepare them for fresh grease. No abrasive permitted.! ;-))

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Yah it was for filming purposes. Should have simply taken more time there. I made sure to clean it out better off camera.

[@zulnoon78]

how about the Piston ?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Best thing you can do is keep up on your brake fluid changes to prevent rust in the lines and caliper piston. A brake flush should be done every 3 years

[@weforever137]

Perfecto 👍👍👍

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you!!!

[@ant_yep]

Very nice work

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Ant Yep thank you!

[@michaelwise6970]

Why didn't you take off the bracket and the rotor to clean and lube everything?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

The bracket and rotor don't need to be removed to clean anything. The slider pinhole in the bracket, as well as the brake pad retainers, are easily accessible to clean and lube with everything in place. Unless you're referring to something else.

[@michaelwise6970]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple no I was just wondering, I take off the brakes around November and then right after winter March or so and I will take everything off and clean off the rust behind the rotor sometimes it likes to stick but last year was my first time using some 3m anti-seize behind the rotor and now it comes off like butter. But also I like to put a little 3m silicone past on the brake pads where they touch the hardware and of course on the slider pins, That's just my normal brake lubrication job. I don't know maybe I'm overdoing it.... 👍

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@michaelwise6970 Anti-seize behind the rotor and behind the brake pad backing plate is common practice when installing new components or if things start squealing again. I've never heard of it being done routinely every year, but it surely isn't going to hurt anything! I was primarily trying to just focus on the slider pins in this video, but maybe I'll add to the description that the brake pad retainers could also be cleaned and lubricated during this time too.

[@ashokbhaivyas2034]

Great job 👍

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you!

[@neil_digital]

Thanks for the video

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

You’re welcome! Glad it could be helpful!

[@umiof5]

great video...thank u

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

you're welcome! Glad it was helpful! :)

[@E_Legal_Alien]

No brake kleen?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

You could use brakleen to clean out the caliper holes, just make sure to not get any on the rubber boots.

[@mrmudstud5980]

Excellent description with good details. Thank for the tip.......

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you and you're welcome! Glad the video could help!

[@jacobkatari9126]

Why do engineers call for torque specs on brake components?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

JACOB KATARI there is a torque spec for every bolt on the car. It’s to ensure both that the bolt it tightened enough to not come loose and also to ensure that the threads aren’t stripped from over tightening.

[@alanfrancis9225]

So important to torque all bolts, you and others safety relies on it.

[@pollydor07]

Thanks

[@andrewlightwood3895]

Don't go diging the boots with a sharp blade , hold the rubber and put the pin out you will damage the boot with a sharp object

[@holysmoke7043]

Thank you for the instructions.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

You're welcome! Glad my video was helpful!

[@silviuguseila2552]

You are not supposed to put anti-seize on those screws, in fact, you are supposed to put thread lock (the blue thing)

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Silviu Guseila For some vehicles this may be true, but not for this car, especially up in the rust belt where I live. If I didn’t use anti-seize, these bolts would be difficult to remove. Plus as you saw by the video, they were on there pretty good even with the anti-seize.

[@silviuguseila2552]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple ok, that might be true. Most brake pads kits also come with those bolts as they recommend replacing them with new and they are already coated with thread lock. Also, Textar says do not use copper anti-seize as it reacts with alumium and steel. A nice explanation here: pagid.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Copper-grease.pdf

[@ahmedboudene2623]

we do not put gréasse on the screws

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I put anti seize on them because they are somewhat frequently removed, and being in the rust belt, it makes life a lot easier. And I’ve never had an issue with them coming loose as some people have expressed their concern with that.

[@paulburden3172]

What's an e brake ??

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

The emergency brake. There is an additional set of drum brakes inside the rear rotors that will activate when the emergency brake pedal is pushed. We use it as an extra safety precaution when lifting up the car to ensure the vehicle won't move or fall when working on the vehicle.

[@thechosen5805]

You should have replace your rotors while you were there. Rotors are cheap and your saving money on labor. i see plenty of grooves on your rotors

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

nah it's just typical surface rust from sitting outside and then moving the car a few feet, rotors are still smooth and fine if you look at them after a drive. and I do all my own work, so no money lost!

[@rondoe8364]

Nice job very basic like you said

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thanks! Glad my video could be helpful!

[@akdrak7553]

As a doctor, just FYI, brakes have a lot of cancer causing chemicals so please wear gloves.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thanks for the feedback! I’ve been trying to wear gloves more often recently!

[@greentriumph1643]

What chemicals please?

[@colt5189]

Caliper bolts shouldn't have antisieze, they're supposed to have thread lock. Brand new bolts will have thread lock. Or put wire brush thing in a drill, clean old bolt threads, and put new blue thread lock. With antisieze, the bolts could come lose or fall out and thus cause braking problems that could cause a wreck.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Putting antiseize on the caliper bolts is okay for this vehicle. I know other makes and models could potentially ask for thread locker, so every vehicle is different. Living in the rust belt, if I didn't add antiseize, these bolts would be a PITA to remove. Ericthecarguy does it too. I've done this for over 10 years and nearly 200k miles and never had the bolts come loose.

[@colt5189]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Why do you say it's okay to put antiseize on a caliper bolt for this car? That caliper bolt arraignment is not different than many other cars. I bet the factory didn't put antiseize on that bolt. If you bought a new bolt, I bet it would have threadlocker on it.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@colt5189 because I live up north with salty roads that cause rust. Rust causes bolts to be difficult to remove and sometimes even break. Antiseize prevents rust, and makes the bolts easier to remove. If I lived in Texas where rust isn’t an issue, I probably wouldn’t apply antiseize.

[@colt5189]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple You could put antiseize on your brake pads and rotors too if you wanted, but it would never be the right or okay thing to do. It can be dangerous putting antiseize on caliper bolts, no matter the make, model, or car's location. So I just think it's improper to put this in a video that rando people not knowing what they are doing end up unknowingly replicate this and then some day someones caliper bolts are going to fall out and cause an accident.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@colt5189 Well actually you are supposed to put anti-seize on the back of a rotor so it doesn’t stick to the hub lol and I wouldn’t consider it improper mentioning antiseize on the caliper bolts when literally everybody up north is doing it, including big time KZbinr Ericthecarguy who was a Master Acura Mechanic. If you’re snugging down the bolts properly, there’s no reason they should ever come loose, with or without antiseize and regardless of what state you live in.

[@mikman7219]

Why not to use the proper grease? Not this dielectric grease?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@mikman7219 the product used in this video is not a dielectric grease, it is a silicone paste which is good for lubricating sliding components, preventing metal-to-metal contact, and is also very compatible with rubber. It is the ideal product for caliper sliding pins, but a brake grease such as sil-glyde would work fine as well.

[@mikman7219]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple It says "dielectric grease" on the bottle. Also they never mention the temperature interval this grease is good for. I am not saying it's complete junk but you used it for 1 year and it is black. I did my first work on the brakes when the car was 5 years old and the factory grease was so clean and perfect that I regretted that I removed the boots and the pins. The factory grease is a polyglycol (PAG) grease like trw pfg 110. It is better than any silicone grease.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@mikman7219 I would say that more so means this silicone paste can be used as an alternative to a dedicated dielectric grease if not available. Kinda like using aftermarket parts instead of OEM, they’ll both work, but OEM is usually better. It is also worth noting at the time of filming this video, I more than likely had 300,000+ miles on my car with 3/4 original calipers. The original boots and caliper pins probably don’t hold as good of a seal as compared to when they were new. I was also driving 25,000 miles/year back then, which also adds to the amount of potential dirt and moisture mixing with the silicone. This video is just for reference and should be taken at base value. If you drive less and in cleaner conditions, by all means you could get away with doing this less often. Point being though, keeping the caliper slide pins lubricated, regardless of what lube you use, will make your brakes last longer and ensure safer driving conditions.

[@nemo5335]

fwiw your acura might be different but on my mazda the boots are cheap and easy to find so i dont see any reason to not replace them when you're doing brakes. it's like $6 and it eliminates one of the more common problems in brakes. also goddamn you need some brakleen bruh.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Kinda mentioned that at 4:15. Honda only sells a $25 kit for the rear and a $31 kit for the front, rather than selling the boots separately. I did try buying aftermarket Raybestos, but those did not fit. If my rotor appears dirty/rusty, that's just because it was sitting outside for a couple days without actually being driven. They're still shiny and smooth to this day.

[@timothypritchard5391]

good video, you need a tripod.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thanks! And I have invested in one since making this video!

[@orlandodizo5097]

I guess the tutor got only one hand.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I definitely waited too long to buy a tripod haha

[@ChefBoiImHungry]

ummm lol 1 packet of sil glyde from oriellys @ $1.99 will do the front an rear pins !!! no need to spend $30 unless your a mechanic doing this daily!!and you can clean the rubber boots and everything else rusted an greasy with brakekleen @ $3.99 a can also from oriellys.....also a dab of wd-40 will clean the boots up or dawn dish soap! your spending way to much an wasting to much effort guy.....im a asc certified honda mechanic an there are tricks you need to learn or maybe research!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Lol nice try, I know a troll when I see one ;)

[@ChefBoiImHungry]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple not trolling i found your video helpful but i did it more efficient and cheaper after watching. your delusional an paranoid! take a xanax my friend an don't disrespect your viewers like u did me

[@ChefBoiImHungry]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple an only reason i even commented is your video is 4 years old

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@ChefBoiImHungry I still see the comments, even on my older videos!

[@ChefBoiImHungry]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple are you stupid or just cant understand? i watched your video for a guide....not to demean you ! your video is outdated.....i don't care about what you can and cannot see on any of your videos! that's not what i was saying!!!! good day to you an leave me alone please....go chew on your fingernails somewhere else!

[@kishanmanpalikhe]

wear nitro gloves

[@rm5902]

They rip.

[@RingZero]

You just picked up the dirt from the floor into your tissues and put it back into the boot. Sorry, you need to invest in a camera tripod. BTW 3M silicone paste is a good product, again its no different than any other silicone paste as it's the same chemical composition.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I made sure to clean it out very good off camera. And I was still pretty new to making videos at the time of filming this and I do have a tripod now! And yes silglyde is another great silicone based brake lube.

[@mikerafone4736]

1 Very wrong lube!!!! Google best grease for brake caliper slides pins. You can get small tubes cheap. 2 Those boots will fail real soon, that will cost you. boots are cheap, find ones you like. Nothing new here those look just like the ones in 1970 when I worked at Dodge dealer 50 years ago.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Funny, the boots seem to holding up just fine after 327,000 miles…

[@dwayneevans683]

This make no sense, im an ASE CERT MECHANIC, bout pins where already lube abd freely moving, this is only necessary when doing a brake job! which i hope is not every year , u must to riding the brake or using really cheap brake pads! This procedure is only necesary when doing brake repairs and or schediule maintenance! Complete waste of time, u obviously had nutten better to do with your time!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

The clip at 4:05 was actually taken after I lubed the pins because I needed to refilm that clip. Sorry if that part came off as deceiving. I don't ride the brakes and I use Akebono ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pads. This is preventative maintenance in order to prevent repairs in the first place and it clearly works seeing how I have 65,000+ miles on my front brakes with plenty of life left. I also commute 20,000+ miles per year in a harsh winter climate, so the pins are prone to getting dirty. Doing this once a year is just my recommendation, which means you can use that as a starting point and adjust as you feel necessary. If you commute far less, you could probably get away with once every other year. Just as long as they're being lubricated. If people only did this during brake service, that would be once every 5+ years for a lot of people which isn't good! Plus this takes less than two hours to do, so calm down.

[@angelisone]

I rather trust ATG, Scotty Kilmer & Incin3ration. Hate to say it, but you are wrong. And that mean even if you are ASE Certified Mechanic. Many shops DO NOT do this and even many on KZbin don't show you. Do you know many dealerships/shops DO NOT use distilled water on a complete coolant flush fill? They use only tab water to mix into coolant of 50/50.

[@alanfrancis9225]

If I was doing a yearly brake inspection and had removed the wheels a 5 minute clean and regrease of the calliper pins/ holes would be a automatic part of my service. But that’s me. I am not a mechanic but if I was this would be my standard. Many garages don’t even bother to do this when changing discs and or pads.

[@jeremar]

An ASE CERT MECHANIC fucked up my car by installing wrong parts. It's his car.

[@MrPbip]

You can get that rubber boot at AutoZone for 5 hours

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I'll definitely check there next time, thanks!

[@bobert59]

wondering if these slider pins on my civic are whats causing a quick squeak when I lift off the brake pedal.