How to Inspect and Lube Your Brakes (COMPLETE GUIDE)

[@markmbarrios]

Since you pushed the brake piston back, you forgot to mention to first pump the brake pedal until firm before going out for a drive... If you don't then you will have a terrible day 😅

[@thfcdan1986]

Thats not true. I change. Never pump the brakes.

[@ej7687]

Yea your right bro! I forgot to do that on my mom's suv and she ended up running into my gmc!

[@Finglesham]

@@thfcdan1986 You are lucky - so far but be safe ad pump until the pedal is hard. I was caught out years ago.

[@harrylacanada]

I almost hit my garage when I first did the job :))))

[@st.michaelthearchangel7774]

Same, I forgot to do this and almost kept going backward into all the stuff at the back of the garage. Lolz. I was like, "oh, snap!"

[@cutabove9046]

My take is to NEVER put anti-seize or any other grease on the ears or the hardware pads slide in. You've just created the best dirt, grim and pebble magnet in the world. Put brake grease (very lightly) on the surface of the bracket BEFORE you install the hardware (and never reuse old hardware). This will keep the bracket mating surface from rusting and squeezing the pad ears as rust builds up. Also lube the bracket where the back of the pads contact the metal surfaces and that includes the piston. Never reuse brake hardware. it cost pennies and you can buy it separately from the pads if you have to. Oh yes, anti-seize belongs on nuts, bolts spark plugs and treads in general and nothing else. Anti-seize cakes up over time and with heat. Use brake grease that's what it's designed for. Also attempting to crack the break bleeders is a great way of snapping off the bleeders. Don't mess with them unless you have to. It will take what should have been a half hour per wheel job and turn it into a all day affair. This is especially true if you have dissimilar metals. Only a light coat of grease goes on the pins. Lots of grease as you put on risks the hydraulic affect of pushing the pins out when the brakes are warm. And I shouldn't have to mention that brake bolts and wheel nuts should be finished with a torque wrench with the proper specs for each group.

[@AndreeewP]

I’ve got three torque settings depending on the size of the bolt; wrist, forearm, and full arm. Has never failed me!

[@spencerd1079]

First thing, clearly no one taught you what a paragraph. Second, your entire argument apply to climates with a real winter. Our roads are salted in the winter, having a little dirt and sand is a non-factor compared to your slide pins and pads rusting to the caliper bracket.

[@newbluerugby]

@@spencerd1079what’s so crazy is you both sound right. I’ve watched dozens of these brake, change videos and everybody sounds so confident and correct in their method. It’s nearly impossible to find the correct spots to lube & the correct lube(s). I think we can all agree on torque specs, safety tools, and the correct manner and doing the job - BUUUT the freekin Lube man - everyone’s got their own way that they think is correct!

[@PastorBobUhls]

@@newbluerugby exactly how I feel… Thank you

[@rickbsu1033]

I wasn't able to get to the dealership to have my brakes changed and after watching your video decided to do it myself. It was a simple job for me and that's coming from someone who is not a mechanic. Thanks for taking time to post your videos! You saved me a lot of cash and my brakes are now squeak free!

[@tomhelsby5546]

It's a mistake to put silicone paste/grease on to the bottom of the sliding pins because they will not compress fully and this prevents the pins going to their full length of travel. This will give uneven brake pad wear. Also the correct place to grease is below the shims. If you grease the parts you have shown it attracts dust from the pads as they wear and this can cause the brakes to squeal. otherwise, very good and interesting to watch

[@mrc79]

Great points thank you

[@coopersloan3938]

This is a myth. They generally don’t slide the full distance anyways, so hydrolocking etc isn’t possible. Grease/paste works it’s way to the end anyways in the course of normal operation. Silicone paste or Japanese style ‘rubber grease’ like niglube is indeed the right way to lube slide pins.

[@byronakhavi953]

Very good video and detailed. I would add cleaning the inside of the wheel and wheel studs before install. Then torqueing them down properly. Cleaning the stud threads, back of wheel rim and the caliper bracket threads and pin bolt threads is important. Also, cleaning the bolt mating threads and torqueing to OEM spec. is important. People don't all have that right feel for tightness. Using a dial indicator gauge and checking rotor lateral runout is important as well. Anti Seize should be used on the caliper bracket bolt threads (light application) and silicone grease should be applied to the hardware. Anti seize is not meant for the pad riding areas. Silicone grease should be used on pad riding areas and some OEMs discourage it (may attract dirt and grime). However, a light application under the hardware is referenced in the service manuals to minimize corrosion. Must ensure the brake line is not twisted when that caliper is put back on. A before picture should be taken to reference; when installing as a check. A break in should be done for new pads and rotors. Checking that the hardware is not contacting the rotor should be done. The caliper bracket bolts should be replaced if their threads are worn and a check for lateral play should be initiated. A loose fit could be an issue if bolts are reused. You are an excellent instructor. Your material is well presented and recorded. It was a pleasure watching this video and your explanation of cleaning the pin areas and applying proper lubricant for free movement of the pins was spot on. The rubber boot condition is important and they need to be replaced if damaged. Great job cleaning the hardware. Good work!!

[@RodrigoGarcia-ck9rz]

Good feedback I like it 👍🏾

[@mrc79]

How do you clean the stud threads and bolt mating threads? I think I skipped this and had a misaligned bolt that stripped my caliper

[@byronakhavi953]

@@mrc79 You spray brake cleaner on them and use a wire brush. Then you can blow out with compressed air or wipe down. There is a tool that attaches to a power drill that cleans them with a circular wire brush (fits over the studs and cleans very well). I use this tool. Clean the stud and lug nut threads for optimal torque. Do not use lubricant if the service manual requires a dry torque. Follow the OEM service manual requirements and not "good" ideas in You Tube.

[@L3x4Pr0ne]

Thanks dude. Just did my front brakes today. Went exactly as shown. This was a perfect tutorial. For someone who never does this, this was helpful

[@mikewiebers8814]

While I go through the various videos on a subject, very rarely do I come across ones that are low key 🔑 and without swearing 🤬. I thank you for a fine video that is well thought out👍🏽👍🏽 .

[@jlmfernandez1512]

Very good concise video ,easy to understand with clean & clear visual images. Thanks jim

[@paulstiles5948]

@@jlmfernandez1512 .

[@donmartin6209]

one of the best instructional videos I've watch, great detail and camera work, well done, thank you

[@FBall-im8ui]

WHAY TO GO KID! Very well explained, it has been 48 years since i worked on my cars as i STARTED BUYING NEW CARS WHEN i went to work, now I want to work on my sprinter myself Thanks

[@gkelly941]

Not many people will remove rthe wheels until they have an indication that their brakes need immediate attention, usually to replace worn pads. At that point, it is easy to clean and lubricate the calipers. Be sure to remove the old grease and re-lubricate the caliper parts when you replace your brake pads. Don't forget to inspect the rubber boots on the brake pistons, and replace them if there is any damage. Great video.

[@sushh1]

i learned the hard way that having the right tools is an understatement. i can't stress it enough, now i would really go out of my way to have the correct tools. quality of life :)

[@milanmastracci]

It makes the job SO MUCH EASIER because you aren't struggling to improvise on the fly.

[@nmatthew7469]

buy once, cry once.

[@TrezzTurbo]

I just want to say this is the best step by step video I’ve seen on changing brakes !

[@stephenfallis9374]

Dude your a life saver. I got trapped in a brake job that went so wrong. No forum had clue what to do for new brake issues for this job. Your video some how when followed fixed all my issues so i could proudly bill my customer for a professional brake job. Your a legion. Thanks

[@paantapo]

Watching your videos I started to understand a lot of things and mistakes that my mechanic made with my girlfriend’s car.. lack of properly lubrication is the problem, and using copper lube is the key.. thanks Milan you are the best!! You shown all the procedure as we are dumbs, but that’s amazing because we don’t miss any detail..

[@ryansimmons3458]

Great video!!! I am teaching my 12 year old how to do maintenance on your ride. We knocked out the shocks on my Ford Excursion now we are moving to the brakes. Your video has helped us so much. One of our push pins was completely stuck in,the rubber boot was tore and was letting water in so it was rusted solid. I ordered new boots and shims and we will be following your video and doing it right. Whoever changed the pads last time did nothing but install the pads. Everything is dry. Can't wait to knock this out and show my son the right way to do it. Thanks for posting.

[@hayaakallaah7783]

Im 1 min in and is perhaps the best tutorial on brake servicing especially for beginners.. what a legend!

[@barrykew9756]

Hi, good video, one thing, you didn’t allow for extra fluid going back to the master cylinder, I always put a pipe clamp on the brake hose and crack the bleeder valve put a tube on the end and then push the piston back with a G clamp, just by putting a old pad on the piston, tighten the bleed nipple and remove the clamp that way you won’t displace the master cylinder seals, which happened to me once. So many videos don’t take that into account, you could of course remove some fluid from the cylinder first., top up brake fluid level, and pump the brakes before driving, hope that helps anybody.

[@riceburner4747]

WELL DONE!! Ur a fanatic doing brakes! I'm a senior & have been doing this for YEARS!! It makes working on brakes SO MUCH easier. Ur dad is a lucky man! U should make him watch this video so he appreciates u even MORE!! My car is 2yrs old & I'm doing this as soon as weather is drier/warmer. GREAT VIDEO! OH! I use a Q-tip & coat threads of brake fitting & use rubber caps to keep protected. Ur already subscribed, 1st I've seen this video.

[@gregvaren5778]

Best video I've ever seen on breaking down the brakes ,inspecting and lubing.

[@milanmastracci]

Glad it helped Greg!

[@roho4373]

2 Thumbs up! What I liked about the video is Not because of where to turn the wrenches ..... But the DETAILED EXPLANATION of why each step is necessary. The video camera work is also superbly done. Thanks!

[@peetymcfly8871]

I am impressed by the video and audio quality of this channel. 4k quality diy video is a must in 2022. The content was clear and comprehensive. It sticks out from the others.

[@Haider9292]

Undoubtedly the best and most useful tips to take care of the brakes. Very well done

[@mezo6453]

One additional comment: Always put a little grease between the sliding clips and pad carrier. This prevents noise and keeps the pad carrier rust free. Everything else is explained and done well. In addition, check for binding when pressing caliper piston back into the caliper. This is my own experience after doing hundreds and hundreds of brake jobs. Thank u

[@tsgarage2382]

NICE TIP , but didnt you think he put too much anti seize on the sliding clips? I thought it was a little too much

[@237130]

Great video. Extremely detailed. Thank you for going through all of that. I’m replacing all pads and two calipers on an HD 2500 pickup and its nice to get some reassurance I’m greasing what I should be.

[@ElectoneGuy]

I'm no longer applying anti-seize between the pads and hardware. I find it becomes a magnet for dirt and grime and causes more sticking. Just clean the hardware (or buy new hardware), clean the ears of the pads and they slide beautifully without any lubrication. The most important thing to remember is to only use a silicone-based grease on the slider pins. Kleen-Flo high-temp ceramic brake lube totally seized up the pins on my RAV4 and swelled the slider pin bushings. 3M silicone paste is all my cars get.

[@PeteBasel]

Excellent clear and informative video! Torque values for caliper mount and slide pin bolts would help new DIYers who don't have a feel for the wrench.

[@Spinonemaster]

Very thorough ... brakes are not that difficult, but perhaps a learning process ... nice to see that you carefully clean and lubricate with the correct products ... I sold all my vehicles and toys when I retired, down to one 2000 sweet cherry Jeep Cherokee Sport with 250k on the 4.0 ... my second one in the last 35 years ... rebuilt from the ground up sans the engine block, they get 300k out of the old cast iron work horse ... noticed today coming home a slight drag on front left caliper, and that side was hot and a little black dust on alloy rims ... did Cal/rebuilds with new ceramic pads and rotors about 7 months ago ... PA roads are tough on them, salt, plus I go to the car wash once a week (often get undercarriage wash) so I'm assuming it's the sliders or pad/shims bound up ... all that water/wash to keep frame rust at bay tends to rust up the cheap sliders, have seen that before when routine changing of calipers ... pads/rotors are still good/even ... so even if it's a piston, rebuilds are only $30 bucks ... and will at least re-lube other side or replace both ? ... rears are drums on the 2000, will check them before weather gets bad ... good news is drums and pads/pistons are cheap for these, so i just change everything out for smooth braking ... ceramic pads up front decrease braking distance by 30% and are as smooth as silk ... nice video ... I also have the permatex lube and anti seize ... my grandfather was a salesman for them out in LI back when they were in the aviation business only ... 1940's

[@four27eight88]

This video save me a lot of money for coming into a shop and over paid thanks alot man

[@MrSoulMonk]

Great overview of the essentials. Well done! When i replace the pads, i crack open the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the piston so the fluid goes back into the reservoir. i have used the 3m silicon paste all along but will try the permatex variety you showed. Thank you for the great video.

[@s34nvideos]

Looks good! But I wouldn't use antiseize on the shims. Antiseize is for non-moving parts only. On moving parts, itll harden and seize. I actually wondered why you didnt just carry on with the silicone paste there

[@theniceneighbor]

Using antiseize on shims prevents rust and buildup between the bracket that prevents the shim from laying flat and prevents the pad from sliding freely. It seems weird but it has a purpose.

[@s34nvideos]

@@theniceneighbor silicone paste does the same job but won't harden, hence my comment

[@desishannon3748]

This is the best brake tutorial I've ever watched. Thoroughly educational and easy to understand. Thank you so much for this! This saves me sooooooo much money.

[@JC-vi7gg]

Hello gorgeous 🥰😘😍

[@sleep-nrest5713]

This is a very clear and step by step information provided. I never seen any video like that before. Awesome work.

[@fmo8177]

Great video But you did all that, how come you didn't lube the caliper cylinder, that also moves ? Thx

[@gerardmiglino5057]

I'm learning how to do this so I Have watched ton's of video You're the best grat Camera Work nice and clear and detailed

[@PetesModz]

I would have mentioned that if you don’t have a tool like that and your replacing the pads to use the old pad and a C clamp to close the piston

[@milanmastracci]

Yep that works too!!!

[@tenzackyogi1742]

Get a adjustible plier.

[@TheGeo42]

@@milanmastracci àaswwwww2wwwww22www1

[@danielc.3725]

Yes, another way of doing it too, is to get a LONG Screw Driver, Like a "12 - inch ", Size, should be fine, & before taking them apart, you can, put the " flat - head" between the - pad & Rotor, & PRY, & PRY, on it, hence pushing the - - PISTON - back into the - CALIPER, 👍

[@MegaHollywood1971]

The caliper pistons are compressed back - in order to be "Complete" let people know that they will need to pump the brakes BEFORE they start the car.

[@officialojkush4050]

lmaoo

[@PatriciaGarcia-xl3fq]

This is indeed true or they will have no brakes at first braking.

[@DB5tothehive]

@@PatriciaGarcia-xl3fq Thanks for explaining.

[@ronlaverdiere]

Or after they start the car. As long as it is before they put it into gear to drive it.

[@johnhall3251]

Great video ! You really cover the intricate important details that are not mentioned in many of the other videos I have watched ! I'm looking forward to applying your techniques when I change my rotors and pads ! Thank You !!!

[@boots7859]

Gotta say, for a younger guy you have a good presentation style without a lot of misc crap or music playing. Excellent explanations and information really were appreciated. subbed

[@syllinx1]

Not sure if it was mentioned before but I would be careful if your brakes have the slide pin with a rubber bushing. The wrong type of grease will cause it to swell and may reduce brake performance.

[@jameshoben2950]

Thanks. One of the best instructional videos I've ever seen!

[@jean-francoispoitras6857]

Very good video, well explained in details. Only comment i'd add is to put the least amount of antiseize as possible on the shims. Otherwise it will catch dirt and dust

[@joet4806]

You have Very Good Teaching Skills! Thank You! Pls issue more videos.

[@danielfl.9347]

This works. Last week I did this as well as popping the piston in the brake calliper out, so I could clean some rust of it. Definitely helps. I would recommend using copper anti-seize from a spray can, as it is much easier.

[@NCHAAK]

Just watched a couple of video's about this that were a JOKE.....This one was so easy, nice and informative....Thanks....also I have noticed that no one has mentioned something I discovered awhile ago, that if you take your brake fluid cap off and VERY EASY pry with a screw driver or similar tool on the rear or front brake assembly before you remove it, that the brake piston collapses all the way back with no resistance.....just FYI

[@beefstickswellington1203]

Great video. Only problem is if you use copper anti-seize with a rotor coated in Geomet or Zinc, it can cause a minor galvanic reaction. Geomet has aluminum as part of it's composition so it'd ruin the coating over time. I'm kinda kicking myself for having bought copper seize awhile back cause I ended up buying a Geomet coated rotor then realized I can't use it after looking it up for awhile

[@joseartiaga3048]

Best you tube video on brakes ever

[@milanmastracci]

Thanks Jose!

[@annileimcgregor7528]

Thank you, best video I’ve watched for diy car maintenance. This video has quality presentation, fantastic! I look forward to watching and learning more. Blessings

[@Willy12927]

The best brake guide that I think I have viewed.

[@iokten]

..one of the best instructions I have ever seen! Thank you

[@kimmeakins5064]

I agree. No swearing and no shouting. Great maintenance on brakes and I liked the use of the copper lube.

[@DaleSanders-cd7ql]

I hate going into a job and having that feeling where I'm not sure what I'm doing and impending screw ups that will cost me more in the long run than the peace of mind in dropping the car off to a mechanic. Well, not this time. After I finished watching your video I had the supreme confidence to do it myselfus. History, I had a metal on metal grinding noise coming from the driver front brakes. I thought maybe the pads were wearing thin, but it turns out the dust shield was bent into the disc rotor, so I bent it back a little. Also, I inspected the brake pads which were down 60% or more and starting to "crack", those long cracks that develop after brake pads wear down close to metal. So, I went up to Oreillys, front pads, both sides $40. I cleaned everything up, used two packets of brake caliper grease. To pinch back the caliper I used a crescent wrench, which worked perfectly. I was extra careful too, according to your video, to not let the brake housing "hang", and fortunately I had a bungee cord in the trunk. Hey Mastro, all in all, thanks for the great video. You know your voice gives your viewers confidence to do the job themselves. I watched your video one time, and that's all I needed. Your video is 5yo, but just as relevant today! July 2023

[@miriam7408]

How about greasing the piston and ears on the caliper? You also forgot to mention torquing the screws. Also, saw in another video that it’s not a good idea to put grease on the bottom of the pin because it could prevent the pin from going all the way in.

[@micantar1]

IF YOU ARE UNCERTAIN WATCH THIS VIDEO. I’ve been a teacher for 26 years. In music. I LEARNED from your LESSON. I changed my own brakes for the first time (without guidance) last week and my “gut” told me that I had overlooked things. Now I know the supplies and oversights I need. AND what to go back and do right-WITH COMPLETE, DETAILED, UNDERSTANDING.

[@woungaga]

The best detailled video for a proper job... thanks man

[@kensouf]

I love your video. I used the first video you made on servicing your brakes and after getting everything I needed I was able to change them with ease, and I also was able to make sure it was done right doing it my self as well as learning something new about the car.

[@williame.passalacqua6143]

Great video. I have never attempted to lube or replace my breaks, but you make it look doable. Thanks.

[@Musiclover5258]

This is among the best of DIY videos I have ever watched!! I wish I had before I recently completed my front brakes job. But this channel will be a great reference going forward👍👍

[@milanmastracci]

Glad it helped! Thanks Gopal ☺️

[@victorlopez2143]

I was wondering how to check the status of your brakes (pads and rotor) and this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for doing this video...It's Perfect.

[@milanmastracci]

Glad I could help!!

[@markmagee8896]

This video is very well done, kudos. I do believe that those of us down South who don't deal with salted roads, nor live near an ocean would need to do this once or twice per year however. I'm thinking every 3 to 4 years, or when pads are due when corrosion of the entire assembly isn't an issue.

[@mohammadinayat6799]

Impressed. A very thorough video. i found it quite helpful. It's always good and very satisfying to DIY if you can. I have cleaned and changed pads on my motorbike calipers and cleaned the pistons without taking them out completely but hadn't done my cars. I need to do it soon on my VW Golf as one front caliper is intermittently binding which causes a judder and overheating of the wheel. Unfortunately garages just want to throw one off and replace with a new caliper and charge you a lot.... Just dump more waste at the environment and charge the customer, something that I hate.

[@martinbeland9342]

Nice video. I learned to do this on my car yesterday. I had to purchase thin wrenches to hold the spider pins while unscrewing the bolts. They were turning and preventing me from loosening the bolts.

[@mikec3454]

Very thorough video ... it's amazing what many people can do in their own garage if they take the time to learn. Become more self-sufficient and get away from the garages that don't take nearly as much care with your vehicle.

[@milanmastracci]

Couldn't agree more!

[@phillipyounkins7432]

Great job bro. I never new to use anti seeze on the hardware I always used high temp brake grease. Thanks for the tip.

[@scottfirman]

I used to but its a bad idea. Its best to use the grease provided or get some. I have used regular grease in a pinch, its better than nothing.

[@JitoFeefo]

Nice job. Concise and not over run with testimony. Helps that your voice isnt monotone and you are incredibly good looking. If education is your passion then only thing i would add would be a colorful diagram and sequence of steps.

[@MrPinvideo]

very good video. I appreciate how thorough it is and you move quickly thru the mundane turning of nuts etc..

[@milanmastracci]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@dannynica7480]

Very nice video man. I have done all this every two years not in six months, unless on my inspection I see something not normal

[@raviramiah5498]

Your explanations and information are crystal clear , thanks for sharing . I’ll be on my Fords brakes next week 👍

[@edwardmissouri2216]

Great video. Makes me feel confident that I can do it, and do it better than what a shop will most likely do it. Then I will pump the brake pedal before even starting the car, so I have good solid brakes

[@williamyip3782]

great video, good insight, now I'm gonna go mess with my brakes...

[@dannynica7480]

VERY NICE VIDEO, VERY CLEAR thank you for taking the time to explain it. I did exactly this service myself about 3 years ago and ready to do it again since i am replacing the brake fluid

[@milanmastracci]

Glad it helped! If your old fluid has absorbed a bunch of moisture or has been boiled, when you replace it, you will notice a big difference.

[@michaelbury1941]

By far the best mechanic video I’ve seen. Thanks man. There were at least 2 things I had not been doing.

[@R1150rt]

Excellently orated. The best I have ever seen. Gives me confidence to to do the work. Thank you.

[@5molotok5]

YOU ROCK !!! Very informative and lots of details!!! i knew nothing about breaks, but thanks to your video I will be able to do it myself !!!

[@PaulaJoW]

Excellent video. Very thorough. Learned a lot. Thanks!

[@nicoled7458]

One of the best videos i've seen. Thank you!!!

[@NDViper69]

Awesome detail and explanations. Thank you for the great lesson.

[@RuggyRat]

Thanks so much. Will watch few more times before working on my brakes.

[@kennycontursi7537]

This is the video I've been looking for on the subject. You covered all the bases in a way I could easily understand. I look forward to learning more. Thanks

[@milanmastracci]

Glad it was helpful!

[@davidrobins4025]

A good, clear, detailed explanation and description that is required to do a break job. Thank you.

[@marttileivo5151]

I would like to hear your comment regarding OEM don't grease up the brakes, just the slider pins?

[@RobertGarcia-g7u]

Not gonna lie, i thought this was just just another dude flexin...this was very educational. Im having a brake squeak issue with my front brakes, im sure following along with this vid will solve the problem. Thanks !

[@MattmanCDN]

watched this at lunch before doing back discs and pads on my 06 Montana today [was nice in Kitchener sunny and 8C] excellent tutorial really helped thanks for your efforts!

[@milanmastracci]

Thanks Matt :) Glad to hear it went well!!

[@Me-zo8yc]

Fantastically well made and presented video. Thanks. That's a pre-winter job sorted.

[@dontuno]

Many thanks for the video and for the vast majority of us it explained the process very well indeed. Take your point about doing this at the correct time of year especially as I've got to do it now at 7 degrees and very damp!

[@FSAUDIOGUY]

This is how you do things (correctly)! Attention to detail and everything cleaned up! Nice work mate! :0

[@FSAUDIOGUY]

@riikerman I'm 57....not a kid anymore!

[@isbemorph]

12:01 sure.. of course.

[@The_X_ChefReview]

Great video!! Thank you because this video definitely inspired me to do my brakes on my 96 Tahoe!

[@SkashTheKitsune]

use copper anti-cease between the wheel and the hub assembly as it will make it not only easier to remove but will reduce the chance of rust forming because of rust marks

[@ilyasb.4477]

Thanks for this detailed video. Done this last year after watching your video and felt very comfortable doing it, because of your detailed explanation. Reviewed your video once again, planning on to do it soon.

[@rondoe8364]

Awesome job young man , even if I never done it , you would give me the confidence to do So

[@SushiPac]

VERY WELL DETAILED!!!! Awesome video!!! You covered every little thing!!!

[@vasilemariuscuculescu3026]

very nice presentation. easy to learn and remember. Dude you should be a mechanic teacher. Very well explained.

[@paulbornuat5655]

Really nice video, well filmed, informative, thorough yet not too long... Thanks a bunch!

[@choeyx1]

Excellent video. Very thorough and clear to point. Thank you.

[@solomonanthanial1305]

Very helpful video. But can you please give the link for buying those tools, thanks.

[@clarissethornton9085]

Great video, thank you! I definitely have way more confidence to diy this now!

[@dono9955]

I appreciate this video bruh. I was kinda feeling a little intimidated by the brakes of my car but after this I’m feeling a lil confident

[@dono9955]

Gotta start somewhere

[@BrettHoustonTube]

Thanks for the run through. Although, It's nice to encourage folks this is not the best repair to attempt for those with little experience... You can die if you fail a brake job... and so can others... One stupid move is all it takes and there's at least 33 chances with a rebuild. For example, getting a little grease on those brake pads will not end well... Having someone spot you on this job if it's your first time, may allow you to live for your second attempt. :)

[@Robert.K]

Very good and informative video. Anyone should be able to do this themselves with basic tools. I have one question: Why did you go for copper grease on the sliding surfaces? I tend to use the 'Permatex Ceramic Extreme', purple ceramic paste on those surfaces.

[@PSN7373]

Dont use the purple

[@philipsakhong1918]

I love your video. It helps me a lot in doing brakes work. Very thorough and detailed explanation . Looking forward to seeing more video from you

[@HomieHektor]

Homie the slider that you lubricate at 10:45 is missing the rubber bushing that’s why you still feel it “grinding” when you put it in...

[@SolidSnake334-47]

I am glad some caught, I did too

[@hsttrek1]

@C Hansen actually you can see the lower pin is necked down & there is a slight ridge on the end, it's missing a rubber sleeve, that is used to dampen vibration.

[@00Papyrus]

Watched a lot of brake videos, this was one of the best! Picked up some tips I didnt know about. Juch appreciated brother! Keep up the good work!