Watch his transmission solenoid video

That sucks to hear! Do you know what brand your rack & pinion was? I also read on the forums that removing the rack and pinion was extremely difficult and a tight squeeze, but if you remove the exhaust and shift cable, it was actually really easy. I would say overall this job was a 7/10, mainly due to the plethora of steps involved. Removing the locknut on the passenger side was really difficult, until I came up with that lowering the vehicle method. Removing and installing the shift cable was tricky. Installing the flare nuts is always a PITA. Installing the exhaust required a lot of maneuvering and time. Flattening the lock washer at 49:09 was easily the most difficult. I was squeezing that wrench as hard as I could just to bend the washer. Glad to hear your transmission is working good again! Let's hope it stays that way! Wish mine would smooth out, but I don't mind using the sport shifter, I actually kinda prefer it nowadays.

Sadly most replacement rack & pinion assemblies are all rebuilt and rebuilt poorly. Not uncommon to see them leaking again after a year or two until you find one that works. These jobs suck to do yourself, would've probably sold my TL if the Rack ever started leaking because it would never be the same as original OE once replaced.

@@kimblem.w9952 mine started leaking just months after replacement

@@kimblem.w9952 yah that’s what I’ve read on the forums. Even brand new aftermarket options too for that matter. Based on the amazing longevity of my first one that only started leaking after the accident, I figured junkyard was the way to go. Let’s hope it keeps working cause this was a long difficult job!

each solenoid should read about 5 ohms

that should be okay. "This drive cycle" gets reset every time you turn off the car, and all of the IM readiness systems can’t run there cycle in a single drive. It’s the other menu you want to be concerned about. It shows long term information and will tell you if anything has recently been reset.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thank u so much for speedy reply.

@@jamaraigreen8964 it mainly occurs while pressing the brakes, but can also occur after releasing them depending on how sticky or well lubricated your brakes are. The caliper and pads are both made to slide and create separation of the pads from the rotor. So it makes sense for the sound to go away after driving for a bit. It is possible for something like a small rock to have gotten stuck in the brakes and can also make a scraping sound. You can determine if this is the problem if there are any gouge marks in the brakes. Hope this helps!

@@Explixit it’s quite the maze maneuvering this part in and out. Glad you found my video helpful!

@@wolflogan6556 that’s awesome! My car was getting clunky going over bumps. These cars are incredibly reliable, and now I know my struts should be good for another 300k! Well now you know where to come when it’s time for new struts haha Thanks for watching :)

@CarRepairsMadeSimple I have my CL-S6, a 03 TL-S, a 07 TL-S, and a 2024 Integra A spec tech but I still believe that my older gens will out last the new integras any day of the week

@@wolflogan6556 yah Ive heard various issues and declining quality in some Honda/Acura models. Oil burning, oil dilution, blown head gaskets, and I haven’t heard many good things about the inclusion of turbos in almost every engine. Hopefully this doesn’t apply to your new car!

@CarRepairsMadeSimple I'm working on becoming a master tech at my local acura dealership currently and I've been doing plenty of rod bearing, fuel pumps, and fakra connector recalls it's wild

@@CesarinPillinGaming yah it’s a common occurrence between 200k-300k unfortunately. Just got a 2008 MDX myself and can see it also has a very slow leak as well. Hope all goes well replacing it!

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I'm almost 300k. Makes sense.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I think the worst part is thatin my case, it leaks on top of the engine, and when its hot.. it makes white smoke.

@@CesarinPillinGaming oh dang, I never had it smoking before. At least it sounds like it was easy to diagnose haha Yah definitely don’t wanna breath that in

Thank you! This one a difficult one, and I continue to learn more every day! Thanks for watching :)

@@g_rr_tt I did mention at 2:30 a needle would work much better, however I did not have a needle at the time. There is additional info in the description as well as some links to a nice set of syringes and blunt tip needles that work great for this project. Thanks for watching!

@@julievang1462 hard to say without being there. You could clean everything up , then try some UV leak detector dye

@@koreychapados7038 wow very impressive! I wish my cars overall condition was good enough for that. The salty roads have really started rusting some parts out. But still looks pretty decent overall and drives great. Keep up the great work! And thank for watching :)

@@koreychapados7038 thank you for the kind words! I’m not letting this car go that easy. More videos to come later this summer/fall for sure :)

@@A.Edwardson thanks for the tip!

@@billymiller1249 thank you so much!! I appreciate the kind words! Thanks for watching :)

@@nesbittgregory it makes it that much more annoying when the hits you lol yah a deer messed up my front end 5 years ago too. Luckily I was going slow so no major damage. Thanks for the support and for watching my videos!

@@chip_stack thank you so much! And thanks for watching :)

Wow thank you so much for the Super Thanks! It's really hard to say without being able to inspect your car in person. There are a lot of things that could cause vibrations unfortunately. Sounds like your wheels are aligned and in good condition. Have you checked your engine mounts as well? It could also be a worn out suspension component. Inspect the ball joints where the upper and lower control arms meet the knuckle, see if there is any loose play or tears in the boots. Also jack up each corner of the vehicle and shake the wheel to see if there's any play, which out indicate a bad wheel bearing. I've also heard the inner CV Joint/axle can be notorious for causing vibrations during acceleration too. Hope this help give you some ideas! Good luck and let me know if there's anything else I can do to help!

@CarRepairsMadeSimple will do thanks again I think it going to be cv axle so I order 2 of them off rock auto I'll let you know if that was the problem motor mount bene replaced and upper and lower ball joint was replaced in the last year or so no shake or play in wheel while jacked up

@CarRepairsMadeSimple it was the cv axle causing the death wobbles which was weird cause there was no visual damage boots were intact no damage no grease but took it put new one in and the death wobble is gone

@@mrmac5795 I’m glad you found the problem! CV axles don’t go bad very often so it’s usually not the first thing people think of. Keep up the great work!

@@Watts378 thank you! That’s awesome you’re able to keep your car in mint condition, I’m super jealous! My car has held up reasonably well to the rust belt over 350,000 miles, but it has seen better days. The new fender, bumper, and refinished headlights definitely makes my front end look super fresh though. Keep up the great work and thanks for watching :)

@@Watts378 thank you so much! I’m definitely lucky with how she hit me and that nobody else got involved with the wreck. Easily could have been a lot worse. Thanks for watching :)

@@thinkfaster6451 thank you so much! I was very fortunate that no other cars were involved, and amazed how well this car was able to maintain control, especially with a completely bent in wheel and the wet road conditions. Stay tuned as I have a few more videos I’ll be uploading in the next month or 2!

@@850CANE thank you so much! I was very fortunate that no other cars were involved, and amazed how well this car was able to maintain control, especially with a completely bent in wheel and the wet road conditions. Stay tuned as I have a few more videos I’ll be uploading in the next month or 2!

@@traffic806 I love this car too much, not gonna let her go that easy!

@@jipsee1 that’s terrible, sorry to hear that. Fixing/replacing the rear quarter panel on vehicles is no picnic. It can require cutting and welding just to replace it. But it is replaceable and you can find junkyard panels on the car-part.com website I showed and select “quarter panel” under the “select part” drop-down menu. Perhaps if the damage isn’t that bad, you could see if a dent doctor could work their magic. They’re seriously talented in their craft. I also don’t live near Philly, I just had Siri give me a random city. I hope you can get your car fixed!

@@SimonSheen-g3j you’re welcome! I’m glad my video was helpful! Thanks for watching :)

@@EelInggard I’m glad my video will be of use to you! I would give yourself at least a couple days, this job sucks! But you’ll get it. Good luck and thanks for watching!

@@lamart3857 thank you! I’m glad you found my video helpful!

You are very welcome! I'm glad you liked my video, and thank you so much for the Super Thanks! :)

@@alexanderzhuravskiy1980 nope not necessary. Might take a minute to wiggle the alternator out, but it’s not hard as shown in the video.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thanks 🙏

@@vince2113 that should be okay. That gets reset every time you turn off the car, and all of the IM readiness systems can’t run there cycle in a single drive. It’s the other menu you want to be concerned about. It shows long term information and will tell you if anything has recently been reset.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple okay thanks for letting me know. Appreciate the video.

@@mikman7219 the product used in this video is not a dielectric grease, it is a silicone paste which is good for lubricating sliding components, preventing metal-to-metal contact, and is also very compatible with rubber. It is the ideal product for caliper sliding pins, but a brake grease such as sil-glyde would work fine as well.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple It says "dielectric grease" on the bottle. Also they never mention the temperature interval this grease is good for. I am not saying it's complete junk but you used it for 1 year and it is black. I did my first work on the brakes when the car was 5 years old and the factory grease was so clean and perfect that I regretted that I removed the boots and the pins. The factory grease is a polyglycol (PAG) grease like trw pfg 110. It is better than any silicone grease.

@@mikman7219 I would say that more so means this silicone paste can be used as an alternative to a dedicated dielectric grease if not available. Kinda like using aftermarket parts instead of OEM, they’ll both work, but OEM is usually better. It is also worth noting at the time of filming this video, I more than likely had 300,000+ miles on my car with 3/4 original calipers. The original boots and caliper pins probably don’t hold as good of a seal as compared to when they were new. I was also driving 25,000 miles/year back then, which also adds to the amount of potential dirt and moisture mixing with the silicone. This video is just for reference and should be taken at base value. If you drive less and in cleaner conditions, by all means you could get away with doing this less often. Point being though, keeping the caliper slide pins lubricated, regardless of what lube you use, will make your brakes last longer and ensure safer driving conditions.

@@NogodbutAllahh Thanks! I’m glad you found my video helpful, thanks for watching!

@@bhupendramahawar9010 that’s amazing to hear! I’m glad my video was able to help you and keep those scammers out of business!

Thank you! And thanks for watching :)

I do not have any problems with high speed vibrations, and I consistently drive 80mph daily. There are a lot of things that could cause vibrations unfortunately. It could be a wheel that isn't balanced, rim could be bent, tire is old/worn out/out of round, improper tire pressure, or maybe even loose lug nuts. Could be a worn out suspension component. Jack up your vehicle, get under there, and see if any ball joints or bearings are loose, and make sure the wheel doesn't have any play when trying to wiggle it. I've also heard of "Road Force Balancing" being a potential solution. Maybe look into that as well. Good luck!

Looks like the tube you're speaking of is a breather tube of some kind. My guess is it controls and allows air to move in and out of the transmission during heat cycles where expansion and contraction occur, otherwise too much pressure would build up in the transmission. It should certainly be connected, and it can only cause problems by being not connected. Whether or not it fixes your exact issue, I don't know since there's not a lot of information on this little tube. Otherwise, P1751 would indicate a problem with shift solenoid valve B (12-25 ohms) and the dual solenoid (about 5 ohms) shown in this video. Do an ohm test if you haven't already. Otherwise, there's a chance these solenoid need to be replaced. Before you do that though, I would also make sure your transmission fluid level is correct and that the fluid is red and clean. Use only Honda DW-1. Good luck!

@@GreasyWop I personally like the sealed components better. With grease fittings, you HAVE to grease them consistently or they go bad sooner. If you’re able to keep up with the tedious maintenance, they’ll last a super long time. But the sealed components have lasted me a long time with no routine maintenance required. Moog is a popular brand that puts grease fittings on all their components.

you're very welcome, thanks for watching!!

Is it possible one of the connections isn't fully seated? I remember them being somewhat difficult to both remove and install. You need to make sure you hear a click from each of the connectors when putting them back in.

what you copy and pasted at the bottom of the description are just key words related to the video to draw in more viewers. There are multiple different sized bulbs, some of them being different colors, as mentioned n the rest of the description.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Ok, I guess I'm referring to the qty of bulbs, so I order the right amount. I have T3= 21 bulbs T4= 6 bulbs 74= 38 bulbs, I think that's right based on my interpretation of your video. Good video btw

@@Iamtherodlight1453. you’re welcome! Thanks for watching

@@A_reel_job_fishing about 347,000 miles so far! A lady side swiped me a couple months ago, so I’ve been slowly fixing the car this last month and hopefully will get it back on the road soon!

@@Confused20000 the overall concept should be the same. The pulley will have clearly marked lines numbered 1-6, line it up as shown similarity in the video, and begin adjusting the valves. The thickness of the gaps may vary from vehicle to vehicle

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple awesome! Just to be sure, I have to align it for each cylinder I am adjusting?

@@Confused20000 correct. I demonstrate this at 15:16. Align each cylinder, and you will be able to adjust both the intake and exhaust valve for that associated cylinder. You’ll know you’re lined up correctly and that you’re looking at the correct cylinder when both the intake and exhaust valves are loose, again as demonstrated at 15:16.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple amazing. Thanks again. Love the videos!

@@Confused20000 you’re very welcome, thanks for watching!

@@414NashBaby these are not the shift solenoids, nor does p0740 indicate a problem with shift solenoids. Are you sure you have the correct video? P0740 has to do with the torque converter not getting adequate fluid, overheating, and causing faulty shifting. The service manual states the main cause of the issue could be Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C located at the front of the transmission, but it fails to mention to check the Dual Clutch Pressure Control solenoid valves A&B on top of the transmission, the main problem with both solenoids being a clogged screen filter. It also mentions a potential issue with the small single Torque Converter Clutch solenoid on top of the transmission, but I’ve never heard of this being a problem for anybody. Cleaning the screens fixed my shifting problems and thousands of other peoples transmission problems too. But the screens get clogged because most people were not changing their fluid frequently enough resulting in dirty contaminated fluid, as well as never replacing the exterior spin on atf filter, both contributing to clogging the screen filters in the solenoid. So you need to both replace the atf and clean the filters to fix your problem.

@@414NashBaby there are a lot of potential sources for a leak. As far as these solenoids go, I’ve never heard of them being an issue with leaking. But that’s not to say it couldn’t happen with a faulty gasket or an improperly installed solenoid.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple got you thanks a lot. literally only video that had helped me

@@414NashBaby you’re very welcome! Glad I have been able to help