F250 Super duty Sterling 10.5 / 10.25 Regear and Locker install Very Detailed!!

I go thru the process of regearing a sterling 10.5 with 5.38 10.25 motive gears and installing a crush sleeve eliminator as well as retro fitting a 2011 super duty factory e locker into my 99 f250 superduty axle housing.
Factory e locker part number BC3Z-4026-B

[@DavidCostan]

It’s videos like this that make me want to try my hand at an install.

[@RonaldRinaolo]

I have watched several KZbin videos on the Sterling rear axle reassembly. In my opinion, this video is the best I have found.. It is well organized. No nonsense. Thanks--good job.

[@KBWheelin]

Thank you!

[@alexrateliff4784]

This is the best sterling build video I've seen yet. Thank you!

[@KBWheelin]

Thank you!

[@88HillTop]

I really appreciate the video, for me being a first timer trying it out, I wish you could have filmed your entire process. This is extremely helpful. Thank you!

[@KBWheelin]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jeremiahlinton9582]

Best ring and pinion install video that I've seen!!

[@KBWheelin]

Thank you!

[@BuildItWheelItExploreIt]

Awesome video man! Setting up gears is the ONLY thing I haven't done yet. But i have made my mind up Im gonna learn. I have a 05+ D60 Sterling 10.5.

[@KBWheelin]

Awesome! It’s not to difficult once you get the hang of it usually just seems more overwhelming than it is.

[@BuildItWheelItExploreIt]

@@KBWheelin Thanks man! YEah just ordered the clam shell bearing puller kit and adapter as well as all the setup bearings and races. so that should get my going pretty good. Pretty sure i did buy a dial indicator at some point, just gotta find it.

[@KBWheelin]

@@BuildItWheelItExploreIt just take your time and watch your fingers haha those carriers are heavy

[@BuildItWheelItExploreIt]

@KBWheelin lol what's the part # you used for solid spacer instead of the crush sleeve? CSF9 or (CSF9-BIGPIN/CSF9-35)

[@KBWheelin]

@BuildItWheelItExploreIt I used the csf9 but call Yukon because I can’t remember for certain that the newer 10.5 uses the same. I am pretty sure it does.

[@chrishaidinyak4621]

This is an excellent video; thank you for the effort.

[@KBWheelin]

Glad it was helpful! 🤙🏻 gonna be doing a Dana 60 video soon with an arb

[@doublea1499]

I have a 2000 F350 and didn't know the newer E-locker would drop in it. I just may have to do this!

[@tomhubbard353]

After watching your video I will say the 10.5 set up is pretty much identical to the Ford 8.8, shims on the outside of the carrier. I definitely like that design better than the Dana which go under the bearings, set up bearings are a must. I just did a D44 and an 8.8 for my Jeep. I Enjoyed the video!!!

[@KBWheelin]

I have set up dana axles both ways with the shims under the bearing as as well as on the outside the jk 44s are outside the bearings making little shims a pain at times lol glad you enjoyed the video!

[@vincewetherell8464]

Good video 👍

[@broncobart4354]

Excellent video!!! I wish I would have seen this prior to installing a gland nut! QUESTION PLEASE! So I'm in the middle of this exact install. Got a great pattern drive and coast. I got the football on drive side and I would say the coast side looks a little like a feather shape. I would say nearly identical to yours. -Patterns are centered. -Pinion bearing preload is 20-22 inch lbs. Avg B/L is .008. . -Pinion depth is .028 .002 B/L variation runout on teeth which I attribute to the phosphate coating on the new gears. I've made sure to mark the location of the dial indicator base on the housing and take the B/L measurement closest to the same location / angle possible each time on the teeth. New Ford E-lock Carrier which has .001 runout. New Yukon 4.88s. All new Timken bearings and races. No noise on drive whatsoever, but I've got tiny, faint noise on deceleration. I'm thinking I should increase the preload to the end of spec at 35 in/lbs as I suspect it's unloading a little causing the pattern to change on the coast side. This is a daily, not a wheeler so trying to make her quiet as possible. I'd really love your input on this.

[@KBWheelin]

So two things I would say first 1 have you already been driving around on them? If so leave them cause they wear in and you don’t want to make changes on them after driving you want to complete the break in proses and leave them in my opinion. 2 aftermarket gear sets are known for being noisy in different ways depending on on the brand I have installed Yukon gears and everything was perfect yet they had a noticeable noise on the freeway compared to my motive gears.

[@broncobart4354]

Thanks so much for replying! I put about 14 miles on them slow and easy under 45mph as I was trying to complete the first break in/heat cycle so the phosphate coating is about gone. I'm definitely thinking this a gear quality issue given your opinion and other's I've read. I'm going to send these back and try a set of Motive's. I've installed a few Yukon sets in the past and they didn't whine on coast like these do. This isn't the first time I've built a differential, but it is the first time I've done a set of 4.88 Yukon's. I really appreciate the input sir. I've also noticed the factory B/L spec is .010-.015". Obviously we want to go with the gear manufacture's recommendation which for these is .006"-.010". I'm sure the pattern would move towards the heel with that much B/L for this set of gears. Thank You again for your time and advice sir. Happy Wheelin! @@KBWheelin

[@Thadschnack]

So was the carrier preload set by just adding .008” I’m assuming .004” on both sides to keep it centered and the patten how you set it without carrier preload?

[@joevaldez2939]

EXCELLENT VIDEO! Just to confirm once you set the pinion for tooth pattern check, you never touch it again? The side shims determine tooth pattern?

[@KBWheelin]

Thank you. So the step are set pinion depth I always recommend starting with the oe shim Then set the side shims for the carrier which with adjust you backlash Then check pattern if it is to shallow or to deep take everything apart and adjust pinion depth then adjust the side shims to get backlash into spec then check pattern again.

[@s.e.8719]

Great video! So helpful. How did you know what pinion shim to use before you pressed on the bearing?

[@KBWheelin]

I usually start with the oem shim and make adjustments front there. I have a clam shell hearing puller so I can remove the bearing without damage so I can make changes

[@s.e.8719]

Thank you so much for replying!

[@justinseyer9659]

Awesome video! What spline count axles are you running?

[@KBWheelin]

Still running the factory 35 spline shafts

[@justinseyer9659]

Thanks!

[@briandilley2590]

Well done Sir.

[@jamesmerrifield8]

Did you put the pinion shims between big bearing and gear or under bbig bearing race?

[@KBWheelin]

I always put them between the pinion head and bearing but it will be fine in either location really it’s just personal preference and I have a bearing puller so It’s pretty simple

[@bradlittlejohn2244]

Perfect video, 2 questions I didn’t see the part number for the ford elocker. Also I’m assuming your using 10.25 gears bc motive doesn’t make 5.38s for 10.5s? I’ve only found nitro 5.38s for the 10.5s

[@KBWheelin]

Part number is BC3Z-4026-B forgot to put it in there lol. Yes I’m using 10.25 gears I think I mentioned it but you can use either gears most aftermarket companies just sell 10.25 and when installing into a 10.5 just use the 10.25 install kit the only difference between the two is the pinion bearing

[@bradlittlejohn2244]

Yeah I did catch that, I was just curious why the choice of using 10.25 vs the 10.5. I did a little research and the 10.25 stuff is cheaper and more companies have 5.38s for 10.25.

[@KBWheelin]

Mainly used them just cause of the availability. Most aftermarket companies don’t really offer gears for the 10.5 as you found, and most the do don’t have a lot of them on hand so they end up on back order more often so I find it easier to just run the 10.25 gears

[@paulaagaard7641]

Great video. Did you adjust pinion gear depth with shims?

[@KBWheelin]

Yes I adjusted the pinion depth with shims I am doing a super duty front axle right now and will try to make sure I show the shims when I make my adjustments

[@paulaagaard7641]

@@KBWheelin awesome. Friends rear end is making noise and I've been elected to fix it. Thank you for in depth video.

[@KBWheelin]

No problem! Good luck with it hopfully it’s just bearing then you won’t have to worry about the shimming lol

[@paulaagaard7641]

@@KBWheelin hope so. It's had a hard life on the farm. He loads it with 4 tons of grain atlesst once a week along with many other things.

[@KBWheelin]

Lol that’s definitely a rough life then trucks haha

[@christopherbean9064]

So.. if the only difference is the pinion bearings, would that new elocker fit in my 10.25 housing?

[@KBWheelin]

Yes they fit both housings

[@Stu-Nyce-id8ku]

Do you have the Yukon puller? It works pulling off the pinion bearing?

[@KBWheelin]

I have a different brand clam shell puller but it’s the same thing and yes it works great

[@jeremiahlinton9582]

I noticed you didn't have to adjust the pinion depth also you have to have the crush sleeve installed to get the backlash set correct??

[@KBWheelin]

No I started with the factory shim and somtimes you get lucky and like it this case it is spot on. I have another video from a different axle where I had to make several adjustments. No the crush sleeve has nothing to do with the backlash it is for setting the pinion bearing preload on final assembly

[@jeremiahlinton9582]

@KBWheelin how do you get the bearing off the pinion without damaging it my puller doesn't fit do I just need a different one?

[@KBWheelin]

I have a clamshell bearing puller that fits but some don’t and you need an adaptor. Yukon wells pullers and adaptors

[@KBWheelin]

The other option is set up bearing to get all the shim correct and then press on hood bearings during final assembly

[@jeremiahlinton9582]

@KBWheelin I have the clamshell one and the two piece one neither will grab the pinion bearing race without destroying the cage first I'm afraid if I press my new bearing on the pinion and need to make adjustments I won't be able to remove it again without destroying it