F4A42 Transmission Rebuild: Part 1 - Teardown

[@Fl1n7V3n0m]

Same transmission in my '08 Tiburon. I've watched this series a few times and am now reviewing it again as I am rebuilding my F4A42. Very informative!

[@MattsMotorz]

+Joe Flint Thanks for watching! Good luck on the rebuild!

[@Fl1n7V3n0m]

Thanks bro. How did you source missing or replacement parts? I.E. snap rings etc

[@MattsMotorz]

I just went to the dealer. But there are also many transmission parts websites out there.

[@WallaceRoseVincent]

Were you successful at rebuilding the transmission?

[@cloutykev887]

Quick question is this the 4 speed trans that the Tiburon 2005 has?

[@blairguinea1337]

Hey Matt I salute you as you really are venturing in uncharted territory..................every one to fix an engine but keep well away from that auto trans snd here you are in the middle of the battle front, love it man !. Just finished fitting a W4A42 to my V6........works perfect. Thanks man

[@merenguesfranco8418]

Good morning, greetings brother, my case is that the oil is being thrown at me by the dipstick when it goes from 80 km onwards, we serviced the oil, straining it, and we still did maintenance on the valve body, placing it and then, rectifying that all his changes he does perfectly, but nevertheless he keeps throwing the oil down the dipstick, what to do in those cases!

[@ValyndiirTV]

Is this the same automatic transmission that came in the 99-05 Hyundai Accent? I have been looking for a model number but cannot find anything. Thank you for the videos!

[@MrShortStuff]

Thanks for the information and video buddy. Mines a 4 speed from my Mitsubishi FTO GPX 2L mivec V6 and when I go into triptonic mode, down shifting pretty much throws me through the windshield. Any ideas

[@psions555]

My 2003 EUDM Galant Estate has the same type of gearbox. Smooth as butter in auto but like yours very aggressive in Tiptronic. My trans is in good health, fully maintained etc. It's kind of a characteristic to be honest. I don't think you could call this a typical borgwarner style autobox, feels very much like like a Hondamatic as they both use direct clutch to clutch operation, though of course different designs. They shift much faster and firmer than typical slushbox. Remember that shifting back down to 1st is naturally going to generate a fair bit of compression braking. Using the throttle to try and prevent such aggressive driveline inertia does help a fair bit. As mine is a 2.4 GDI I get "Quality of life" features in the fuel map that help to offset transition to the overrun, that the V6 you have wont. There are remaps available for the gearbox with increased pressure etc which may help or hinder the operation and feel you would have to ask someone that has one for feedback. In all honesty just use it as designed and remember that D is always sufficient unless you really do want to get a shift on. Lots of people with slush boxes of the era could only dream of such good compression braking and shift speed.

[@aussiedigger1441]

I now have to replace the fluid pump because of wave spring failure. How the hell does pieces of metal make it into the pump?

[@alexdashevsky2180]

Thanks for the video. You are really good transmission specialist.

[@charlielandon8751]

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[@deandretrey7575]

@Charlie Landon instablaster ;)

[@charlielandon8751]

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[@charlielandon8751]

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[@deandretrey7575]

@Charlie Landon You are welcome :)

[@Cjbarker2]

Hey, man, I had my granny checked out by a shop and they told me that the valve body was sticking. They said that the only way to get it was to drop the transmission, but what you did here looks like it could be done with a good wrench and a bit of patience. Do I absolutely have to drop my transmission to get that out and repaired or replaced? Thanks, CJ

[@fernandotorres-iy1nj]

ty for taking the time on making this video is very informative and helpful keep the good work

[@bri-ic9np]

Hey Matt, Ide be lost without you Bro, Question: I just finished a F4a51, before I buttoned up the bell housing I noticed that I couldn't rotate or spin the output shaft by hand, to check function of the parking paw, output shaft would not spin. should it? and if should what could have gone wrong? No parts were forced during the rebuild, went together quite nicely ..

[@robertgrillo8422]

assume your not a transmission rebuilder but couple points that you missed in your video or I missed them, 1 the reverse drum, always insoect them or as i do replace them, i never reuse them because the end cover rings wear out the inside of drum and will cause leak and cause the drum to wobble.

[@aaronbqwert7164]

Thank you. Although the filter change requires disassembly of the bell housing it appears very easy to do on the bench.

[@RCsFinest]

"On the bench" ☺️

[@IsmayilHaji]

Hi! Thanx for video. I understand now that during oil change in is not possible to change inside filter...

[@MattsMotorz]

Correct!

[@IsmayilHaji]

Ok, but how often need to change that filter? I have very old Mitsubishi with exact gearbox and it a bit shifting not correct... Sometimes on high way when is shifting from 4 to 3rd gear i feel really strong kick... In city, 50km/h gear box on 3rd gear and i want to stop car emergency it is shifting from 3rd to 1st then again to 3rd and back to 1st. Some people say just change oil, some people say, rebuild or change gear box... i don't know what to do... Oil is red, not dirty... but as i understand^ previous owner changed oil and put ATF DEXTRON3, but is should be SP3... Can oil give that bad result on transmission?

[@MattsMotorz]

Yes the wrong oil could definitely make the transmission act up. Also, changing the oil on a very old transmission can also put it over the edge into not working correctly because the new oil is too thin and leaks from wear are more consequential. Your problem isn't the filter, you likely have more serious transmission problems. But to be sure, I would start by putting the correct fluid in it, to the correct level, and checking to see if there are any codes.

[@IsmayilHaji]

MattsMotorz there is no error codes... kicking is only when gearbox is working more than 30-40min especially on mountains road... there is no problem on acceleration...

[@MattsMotorz]

It's impossible to give any advice without more evidence as to what could be wrong. You need to measure the line pressure using a gauge and cross reference with what the factory service manual says the pressures should be. I made a video on how to do this.

[@baileywhanau]

Awesome video ! I suspect the previous trans re-builder has inadvertently dropped some foreign parts (washer) into the case when doing his repair?

[@MattsMotorz]

I think so!

please, name of the special tool you use to remove the output shaft 20:22 :D

[@bernardchangtyseng4883]

Hi Sir,, I need your expert opinion, I have a hyundai tucson jm 2005 year crdi 2.0 I have a F4a42 transmission. Its damaged. It fits an engine D4EA diesel, do you know if f4a51 transmission is compatible for replacement? Will if fit same electronic, drive shafts and engine? Really appreciate your help please. Thanks.

[@ThePadutch]

So where did the broken parts and bent washer from under the filter come from??

[@bernardchangtyseng7202]

Hi bro,,, I've got a 2005 crdi 2.0 tucson, I had issues with my automatic transmission, I've replaced it with another one, I'm having same issues, now I've bought new solenoids, 5,tested them before replacing, they work, I've change atf temperature sensor too, I still get same results. After driving for 10 minutes it stuck in 3rd gear. And won't shift. If I switch off the car and immediately start up, I get the first gear again and as soon as I accelerate, gear won't engage but suddenly slips and goes into third gear stuck again. Can you help with possible issues. Thank you

[@anaestereo810]

Limp mode stuck in 3d, no code, replaced input/output speed sensor, no dice, then dropped valvebody trans cover and replaced all five solenoids, still not solved....drives fine for 10 mins then stucks to 3rd. any ideas? 06 Hyundai santa fe sm , 2.7l v6..old atf indicates too much clutch wear

[@alexdashevsky2180]

Hi Matt. In this transmission to change solenoids need to drop transmission. And all solenoids are identical ? Thanks and Happy holidays.

[@ciobanugeorge187]

I have the same transmission on my Mitsubishi Galant and i want to change the oil. Do you have any video how to do this operation? There is a filter who needs to be changed? Thank you. Greatings from Europe!

[@MattsMotorz]

+Ciobanu George I believe I show me draining the oil in my video on removing this transmission from the vehicle. There is a large drain bolt on the side of it that you need to take out. Filling is just done through the dipstick tube. The filer is shown at 9:13, it is not a serviceable item, the transmission needs to be removed to obtain access to it.

[@ciobanugeorge187]

+MattsMotorz I am watchin` now... Thnx!

[@eusaunerbarrios]

+MattsMotorz hey do you know if the bell housing is replaceable instead of just replacing the whole transmission, due to the bell housing cracked on my transmission . Please replay and thank you

[@MattsMotorz]

Yes it is but it is very expensive and hard to come by. It would be better to get a new trans unless you can find a used one or you can get the old one repaired.

[@AliveTorque]

Hi MattsMotorz, Even though it is 4 years old, still thank you so much sharing this video. I am trying to understand the rebuild for F4A41 by watching this video. Unfortunately the manual, for which the link had been also shared in one of the comments, is not available anymore. Can you share the Manual(s) (pdf) that you have?

[@seryogamoshniy7167]

спасибо что выложил такой подробный разбор коробки!

[@MattsMotorz]

+SerYoga Moshniy You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@valkendyalexis6381]

Very incredibly lovely stuff.

[@Duxa_]

You really know your stuff, how many solenoids are there in Lancer 2003 ES automatic transmission? I think I have a failing one, there is no check engine light but there is an electrical buzzing for a few seconds when I shift from P to R or from N to D or R it lasts a few seconds and stops and is there even if car engine is off but key is in on position. Should I pay a ton more to replace them all or just replace one that's failing? Also I noticed that after a drive when I put the car in park the rpm will jump by about 500-1000 then come down immediately. Does this mean problem is with 1st gear solenoid? Is it same solenoid for R and D for first gear? Because sound is there for both. There is no check engine light should I keep driving on it until one lights up? Shifting seems fine and all gears engage.

[@MattsMotorz]

I know exactly what you mean by the "electrical buzzing." I am not sure what that is honestly. The issue about putting the car in park and having the RPM rise sounds more like an engine problem to me than a transmission problem. When you put the car in park, the load on the engine goes away and it is the engines job to adjust to the load. Many times a vacuum leak will cause the engine to react slowly in this manner. My philosophy is, if your trans is shifting fine and getting you from A to B, don't spend a ton of money fixing it unless it really starts acting up and is giving you a headache.

[@ЛеонидКарасёв-б1л]

Hello! can you share jf414e/re4f03c repair service manual

[@Brian-bq8tj]

I know this video is really old but these transmissions have a vent?

[@richarddoffing1939]

A bubble I got 2008 Mitsubishi endeavor When I put in drive it just wines no reverse no drive .what u think it is

[@itsagiven7675]

Thank you for these wonderful videos. I could hug you!!!!

[@davidsoto7114]

Just bought a 2004 dodge stratus with this 4 Speed in it. Are they reliable transmissions ?? 😊

[@BlueRage]

Do these transmissions come out from the top or do I have to drop the engine and cradle? I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT that only has reverse and is even slipping in that gear. The fluid doesn't smell...just a bit off pink. I'm suspecting the oil pump as the shifter went tight on it when it lost all its drive gears. No pump = no oil getting to the shift mechanism = tight shifter. I removed the cable at the transmission and it is the cable itself has no tightness to it. Does this diagnosis sound plausible?

[@MattsMotorz]

The pump sounds plausible, although many times that often knocks out everything, including reverse. Get a transmission pressure gauge and measure the pressure inside the transmission. That will tell you right away!

[@MattsMotorz]

Also, for this vehicle, I took mine out of the bottom. I have a video on it actually.

[@BlueRage]

@@MattsMotorz Thank you for reply. It turned out to be the neutral safety switch and shaft that holds it going into the transmission were seized. A new switch and working the shaft with a ratchet back and forth and I could see the rust pouring out. It's all fine now. Got lucky!

[@craiggus365]

Me again...More issues... :( The $100 trans wouldn't shift into 2nd( instant limp mode,) so I replaced the solenoids from the old one. It is better, but still acts up sometimes. My plan is to swap the whole valve body over to the newer one now since just the solenoids has trouble downshifting and up shifts best at hard acceleration. Can I just reuse the valve body gasket? Do I need to/should swap accumulator pistons? I am doing this with the old one on the ground, but the new one is still in the car. [same way I did the solenoids] Sick of me yet???? LOL

[@MattsMotorz]

+craiggus365 Damn that sucks! I don't remember what issues you had with your old one. Can you remind me? It really wouldn't be wise to reuse the valvebody gasket. Gaskets compress when torqued down, meaning they are most effective the very first time they are torqued down. As for the accumulator pistons, you probably don't need to. Inspect both sets and use which ever ones are better. They will probably be pretty similar is my guess.

[@fernandotorres-iy1nj]

ty for taking the time on making the video

[@Cjbarker2]

Hey, man, I've done this twice now, and both times it looks like moisture got in somehow or another. Where is the vent on this particular transmission? After a thorough study of the case, I can't find it.

[@Stoneforth]

This is almost identical to the 5 speed. Been a big help. Were you aware of the faulty low/reverse wave springs in these when you put it together? Mine broke into 5 pieces causing rough shifts and flairing but thankfully remained in place. Only caused some scratches where the plates go

[@MattsMotorz]

I don't remember to be honest. This was so long ago!

[@craigtamayo1715]

the old one was run dry after a bent pan drained all the fluid. it had 255k on it. I couldn't get a gasket on a sunday, so I reused with the plan of getting a new one. now it only shifts correct under hard acceleration or if I let off the gas when it is about to shift. it down shifts into 1st now also, like I have it in low all the time. plus one of the long mounting bolts near the accumulator pistons pulled the threads out when I torqued it, I need a longer bolt or one of those Helicoil things to replace the threads. I'm thinking maybe I should go back to the old trans with the new pan on it or get another 100 dollar one and make a Frankenstein. fun Xmas coming up!

[@MattsMotorz]

+Craig Tamayo Did you get the $100 trans from a salvage yard? They normally offer some sort of warrantee. Make sure you torque everything to spec. Especially the valvebody. Unfortunately, I can't say much about the issues you are having without the manual in front of me and some line pressure readings.

[@craigtamayo1715]

Yeah, I'm gonna get some gaskets and give this one another try. If not I'll put the old back in, this car will make 300k, like it or not.

[@craigtamayo1715]

It has a guarantee too, but the other one they have is over 170k. Trying to avoid dropping it again.

[@MattsMotorz]

I would at least get your money back and go to another salvage yard. Did you rebuild your old unit? I can't remember.

[@coldmank1896]

My 2006 Mitsubishi galant has this exact transmission. I was mad after opening and realizing the filter wasn't in the Pan. Who designed this trans? I don't know the advantage of not putting the filter in the pan, but all the way deep into the box. The location of filter is nonsense to me. Great video by the way..... thanks for feeding my curiosity.

[@psions555]

There is a filter in THE ENGINE BAY 😁😁 A time where maintaining and servicing an auto trans what standard rather than this modern sealed for life crap that we all endure now, i was stunned by how serviceable it was. Galants also get a trans radiator as standard fitment, i think they have about 7.5 litres in the system. It's actually on the radiator for my trans where the screw on filter is just there ready to be changed quickly. The second filter is not part of the service i believe its just there to catch anything the big filter didn't. USDM models get a regular Chrysler slush box as far as I know. The Galant gets the F4A in varying ratios (4 or 5) and strength options, plus 2WD/4WD

[@tallkooldrinked]

Question. What's the difference between the W4A5A and F4A5A? Is it just the bellhousing?

[@copypostal1433]

hello, good afternoon, I have this same transmission, and when I put the reverse, it hits back, and then it works perfectly, forward there is no problem, only to make the switch from neutral to reverse feels a blow. Could you more or less indicate where to look for the problem, thank you.

[@MattsMotorz]

This is a common issue with aged transmissions. Reverse has the highest hydraulic pressure, and when you switch into it, many times it will slam. It can be caused by many different things. The first thing I would do is measure the line pressure during neutral and reverse transition and compare to spec.

[@KaizenMcQueen]

@@MattsMotorz heyo! How do you measure line pressure?

[@seangaskin874]

Hey Matt, I have 2001 kia sephia automatic 1.8 with a F-4EAT / F4A-EL. 2 questions... Is this the same tranny you're working on here and also its shifts into 1st & 2nd great. But won't go into 3rd or 4th I think it's a pressure problem,but I'm not sure. what do you think. Any advice would be great. Thanks man.

[@MattsMotorz]

+Sean Gaskin Honestly I don't know if it's the same. I don't work on enough transmissions to know those details unfortunately. With transmissions, a single problem can have so many causes, it is hard to give any useful advice with no diagnostic information. What needs to be done is to look through the manual, determine the pressure test port location(s), and use the information in the manual to decide on what and where to measure line pressure. Each transmission works the same, but does it in a different way.

[@Disciple0fMetal]

Very Informative video. I'm no mechanic but it's interesting to see the nuts and bolts of my car. I got an 02 Lancer with 185 miles and the transmission hasn't given me any issues yet. Hopefully I won't have any in the near future haha

[@MattsMotorz]

Disciple0fMetal Hopefully!

[@MrTmanslim]

+MattsMotorz Thanks mat I finally got the car to shift firmly like it's suppose to now. what I do was went back inside the transmission and cleaned the second brake piston and changed the fluid. AFTER that I added some additive to it and then it started smoothing out. now it shifts like it should. thanks man

[@MattsMotorz]

That's great! Glad everything worked out!

[@robotza]

Hi Matt , I wonder if you can help. My car, Kia Sportage with a F4A42 gear box has an issue. In the mornings when the car is cold i'd say for the first mile or 2 I have flare up issues especially changing from 2nd to third under moderate /light throttle ( the lighter the throttle the issue is less pronounced) , it will also do it from 1st to second on occasions , but only when the car is cold. When it is warm the car will shift perfectly even under full throttle . We have fitted new solenoids and also replaced oil with Valvoline Maxlife . Any clue what the issue can be ?

[@MattsMotorz]

Flares are basically caused by incorrect timing of the gear shift. For example, one gear set disengages and the engagement of the next gear set could become delayed due to lack of oil pressure, or sticking valves, etc. How long has it been since you've changed the fluid before this last fluid change? Typically, when transmissions slip when they are cold, it is because the oil level is too low. Oil expands when heated, which raises the level by following the procedure in the service manual. Check the level, but don't add too much! Another reason is because the oil is old and viscous. Replacing the fluid only replaces about 60 -70% of the fluid, as there is still a significant amount in the torque converter and throughout the transmission. A flush would be better. Apart from these things, the next step to do would be to hook a pressure gauge to the transmission test ports and record the line pressure during the issue.

[@robotza]

Thanks for the reply. I recently did a full flush and fill to the correct level . Checked when the vehicle was hot , in P and idleing and it was on the HOT level on the dipstick. Ive taken the valve bank off now and going to check for any sticking valves , im thinking that the aluminum expands and the valves move more freely when its warm. The valve with the bolt/spring , does that have to be at a specific setting ?

[@MattsMotorz]

I don't remember much about the valve body, it has been awhile. But if there is any kind of adjustable spring where you turn a bolt to adjust tension, then yes, it has to be at a specific setting. Use the factory service manual (you can find it free online). It tells you the entire procedure to disassembly and setting everything in detail. Use very fine grit sand paper (800 or so) and roll it into a cylinder to polish the bores. I show this is most of my transmission rebuilds I think.

[@robotza]

I found a broken seal! the oil supply to the second brake piston. I'm going to still go through all the valves ans will update this thread if my problem is fixed. Thanks again for the thorough vid

[@MattsMotorz]

Awesome! Keep me updated for sure.

[@Cool_coyote]

Question i saw you take out 2 wave rings and when you replaced you only put one back in is new thicker

[@markjordancarillo6939]

hi there, do you know what is the part code for the input sensor? thank you.

[@patrickoz5139]

Great Video!! Do you know if this trans is much different that a 97 Eclipse GST Automatic?

[@MattsMotorz]

+Patrick Oz I don't unfortunately. What is the transmission model in that car?

[@patrickoz5139]

+MattsMotorz I believe its a W4A32

[@MattsMotorz]

Then no it probably wont be very similar to this one.

[@mazen723]

I believe Hyundai started installing this type of transmission in the year 2000 models on words.

[@blackericdenice]

What kind of car does this go n?

[@MattsMotorz]

This came out of a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer

[@blackericdenice]

MattsMotorz Dude, u took it down to the floor. It had to work when u was done. Are u a trans guy or just good with that one? I taught myself how to rebuild my 96 Tahoe trans. It work the 1st time and it's been 20 months and 17,000 miles.

[@MattsMotorz]

I am actually going to to a follow up video on the car. Its been about 1000 or so miles and its been perfect! I am very much a transmission guy. Good job on the Tahoe! Anyone who can rebuild an automatic transmission has some skill. (That's why I love it!)

[@blackericdenice]

MattsMotorz I really believe transmission guys are smarter than general techs. I got down on my Ho today and I feel good when it shift smooth. I can take mad pride n it. Now if I could just shut the read end up.

[@AustralianCroc]

Hi love the video, just curious, I have an 02 Mitsubishi Galant fwd 170k miles. Shifts gears so good you don't even feel it. However, when shifting gears through acceleration it has a "flare up," shifting through 3rd gear and down shifting sometimes. You don't feel this flare... yet, but you hear it/see it through the rpm's. Does this sound like a rebuild scenario? Or a simple transmission service and maybe a new wire harness? This car doesn't leak and as a note *The "flare up," goes away when I punch the gas vs slowly getting up to high way speed.* Thanks!

[@MattsMotorz]

+AustralianCroc So you are saying if you accelerate hard, the flare up isn't there, but when slowly accelerating it IS there? It sounds to me that the valves may be a bit sticky. When you accelerate hard, the line pressure is greater and will likely not cause the valves to stick as bad since the fluid is pushing on the valves harder. First thing I would do is replace the fluid, and perhaps even do a transmission flush, that would be better.

[@AustralianCroc]

+MattsMotorz Yes, the higher the speed the smother the shift for some reason. But what you said makes sense. I will give it a service/flush. Hope that's what it is. Thanks your very insightful.

[@MattsMotorz]

No prob! Lemme know how it goes

[@geohudson2125]

@@MattsMotorz I wanted to say i have galant estate v6-24 Automatic can i take out the diff and put phantom grip lsd plate in will it work 🤔 or not worth it and leave it factory open diff

[@theoxygen876]

Hey Matt thanks for your videos which have been really helpful, I need your help (please) I have this exact Mitsubishi transmission but I do not no how to identify which solenoid is which, my scan tool tells me that shift solenoid A and B are bad but I have no idea which ones it is, please help me with this and if you don't mind just list the name of all the others, thank you very much.

[@shawki312]

Does 4g94 2.0 Liter fit with F4a42 transmission ??

[@mazen723]

Good work dude , I have that transmission on my car , I pretty much did what you did, but not to fix it , l wanted to know what was wrong with it, I found a small piece of metal, that is broken, I couldn't find, to where that damn piece belong , I had that all transmission replaced , and did not have any problem with it, after words. By the way I posted a video, for how to clean and test the solenoids . Again thanks dude for posting such a useful material.

[@rbrit100]

where to find all rebuild parts and specs to rebuild

[@BIOHAZARDCURE]

Hi, I was wondering if you could tell me where the hell the filter is for this transmission. I've been needing to get new fluid for a while now but, can't get any clear indication where the filter is. Thanks!

[@BIOHAZARDCURE]

Got it don't worry.

[@MattsMotorz]

You need to remove the transmission and take it apart to change the filter. It is a non-servicable item and is only replaced during a rebuild.

[@BIOHAZARDCURE]

Thank you for getting back to me. I just removed the pan and got about 3.5L of old ATF out. It's to bad that I can't get to the filter but, I'm happy to get new fluid in there.

[@MattsMotorz]

I don't think you needed to remove the pan. I remember this transmission having a drain plug.

[@BIOHAZARDCURE]

Hmm, I'll keep that in mind for next time.

[@андрейретюнских-л4к]

Здравствуйте, не сталкивались вы с воем подобной трансмиссии?. У меня такаяуоробка и она гудит под нагрузкой.

[@14964221]

Que tipo de aceite utiliza esta caja ?

[@GuidoOrlandorefrigeracion]

buenos dias, esa caja no tiene filtro???

[@orlandojesusrodriguez4842]

buenos dias me podria decir cual es la falla q tiene mi caja q se quedo en neutral en todas las velocidades ya le cambie turbina,bomba y filtros

[@petar443]

Hey i have 08 Kia Magentis with automatic gearbox.My gears should be F4A42 or F4A41.Is there some kind of markings on the case where i can find?

[@MattsMotorz]

Get the VIN number and call the dealer and ask em.

[@TheOfficialSoulfire]

Hey Matt so I'm about to buy a new Master transmission rebuild kit and I was wondering where you bought yours? There's one on cobra transmission .com after taxes comes to $300. This is my first time buying a rebuild kit I wanted to buy it from a trusting company where I won't waste my money or get jipped or ripped off. I would p.m. you but I don't know how to

[@estebantorito123]

Do you know where is the Filter?? i have a galant 2002

[@Djlowrida767]

i got an exact transmission like this shown in the video.... can it be used on the mitsubishi galant 02 v.6 3.0 engine?

[@jarin12ga]

Dude hire someone!! It's harder than it looks on video!! Good luck rebuilding it. There is a reason the local mechanics don't touch AT'S!!!

[@14964221]

what's oil correct .?

[@stormblast_82]

hi matt , how could i change oil for this gearbox ( i own Proton Saga BLM which utilizes this F4A42 ) with flush and guarantee that all oil in the gearbox and torque converter and oil filter has been changed ?

[@MattsMotorz]

This transmission has a drain plug located on the back side of it at the bottom. Real big hex. After draining, fill it up through the filler neck. There is no way to get all the oil in all of those places WITHOUT doing a flush unless you change out the fluid, drive it for a few miles, and change the fluid out again (do that a few times). Not worth it IMO as the fluid is expensive.

[@stormblast_82]

you're absolutely right Matt, SPIII fluid is so expensive and to do so probably I'll need about 8 liters ( approx 2 gallons ):-)

[@stormblast_82]

Only in the morning, this transmission suffers delay between 2nd and 3rd gear, after coasting on the way and for all the day, this delay disappears, is that symptom normal Matt ?? 68000KM and changed transmission fluid @40000 KM with WOLF VITALTECH ATF DIII

[@MattsMotorz]

How much of a delay? What RPMs do you get up to before it shifts?

[@stormblast_82]

it delays about 5 to 6 seconds, I think it reaches @2500 rpm before shifting to the third gear

[@bradbaker5713]

Is this the same as the F4a4b

[@fq1657]

this video ten years ago when I was a kid , I never thought that now, I would need it to help me 😂

[@opazo6757]

Gracias por tu vídeo...explicas muy bien amigo!

[@barbiani]

Is this torque converter limited to 245Nm?

[@luthir1540]

Great series there Matt, I was wondering something. Could the cause of hard or jerky shifting be do to a speed sensor, shifting solenoid or even maybe a clogged trany filter maybe ? I have a friend whos 05 Hyundai elantra is shifting really hard (depending on the amount of throttle it seems) from what I understand they changed one of the speed sensors on it, at least, not sure which one either, but would really like to get some insight before trying to change the filter. After watching this series I'm thinking HOLY CRAP thats where the filter is! ! ! To look at it it's the same type of transmission as the one in this series, having pulled the valve body cover and sealed its leak, along with the line leaks it had I'm thinking He's going to have a cow when he hears about this if it's filter is in the same location.

[@MattsMotorz]

Don't change the filter. It is not likely to fix you're problem, and it would be a lot of work for no gain. The filter isn't even meant to be changed. It is non-serviceable, unless you do a rebuild. Filter problems usually manifest as making the transmission work initially, but then work worse and worse over time until it doesn't move at all. Waiting a bit will make it work again. This is because if the filter is clogged, the fluid can't vent to the sump fast enough and the transmission doesn't work properly. It doesn't really ever cause shifting problems, without other problems with it. Is the shifting only in one particular gear? or all of them? Normally if the speed sensor is bad, the transmission will go into "limp home" mode and lock into 2nd gear. A bad shifting solenoid could be the culprit. If the jerkiness is in all gears, I would take a guess and think it is the PCS (pressure control solenoid). When the computer thinks it is bad, it causes FULL line pressure at all times in an attempt to save the transmission from damage (low pressure = slipping clutches). This high pressure causes harsh engagement of the clutches during shifting. Normally the computer throws a code for this, so have it scanned to look for all codes.

[@luthir1540]

Yes, really it seems to do it on them all, but, after resealing the valve body cover- it seemed to do it on third an fourth gears more then the first two gears. I can only guess that maybe hitting the wires or having the battery disconnected for a while reset things , he did say that the check engine light had gone out too when we got that part of it back together. Myself after seeing the pan gaskets he got with the filter thought it was behind that cover and after seeing it wasn't in there didn't want to pull the end cover, I know that's the gear housing an didn't think they wouldn't intend you remove it for a filter. Other then wiring harness or maybe they didn't hook a wire back correctly an dirt's in it maybe, still haven't gotten hold of him to try an re-verify what they had replaced when they thought there was a speed sensor needed before. Am going to try to see if a light may have come back on or if the parts store scanner may find a code for the trany on it. Otherwise I'm guessing at what they have done and probabilities of having bad solenoids, and uncertain if when they replaced a radiator, they left a line loose an it was going low on fluid, not sure if that may have caused something to happen. Like might have made the computer think one thing so it started doing something else.

[@MattsMotorz]

If it is a true problem, it will not go away when the battery is disconnected. The first step is to see if there are any codes. Make sure you get a scanner that can scan for transmission codes.

[@Djm9393]

Are the steps to rebuild an evo x transmission similar to the step in the video

[@World-Superbike]

( 2007 Hyundai Elantra A4CF1/2 ) Hello sir.. I am desperate for some help: do you know the position of the checkballs for rebuild.. 1 with spring and 1 just the ball.. I cannot find any information that shows this 'clearly'. I have the Hyundai factory manual but it is an exploded view from an above angle which is very poorly illustrated! Any ideas bro ?? Many thanks either way - Eddie

[@MattsMotorz]

You need the transmission rebuild manual. That will have all the information you need. You can download it for free if you just google "F4A42 transmission rebuild manual pdf"

[@Thunderroad8517]

Great video! You make it look easy. Thanks dude!

[@ahmedslama3286]

?good work.. can i put this trans on kia cerato 2010

[@MattsMotorz]

Can you do it? Sure. It may be difficult since this particular transmission is not in that car to my knowledge. You would need to reprogram the engine / transmission computers.

[@ahmedslama3286]

can you help me replacing gamma engine 1.6 l by alpha 1.6 l engine without replacing the electric wire and the ecu ?

[@MattsMotorz]

You can't change the engine of a car to a different engine without replacing the ECU. Sorry man, can't be done.

[@ahmedslama3286]

can we replace or rearrange the transmission wire harness ?

[@CarlosRojas-of8pu]

Hello, I need help, muy voz was neutralizar and when i parking sounds, another thing that i put it in D and raise the speedometer that could be i hope you can answer me Is a Kia carnaval/setona 2000 V6 2.4 please help

[@NashAutoRepair]

Just curious if this is the same transmission or a close cousin to the F4a51-2?

[@javierblanco7072]

Hello, this automatic transmission belong a Kia sedona 2006 ?

[@venom17a]

is this similiar to 97' 3000gt? loox more squarish than 3000gt trans to me

[@edvinnelius8213]

3000 gt transmission is different.

[@MrShortStuff]

Where can I get a solenoid breakdown kit for this as I want.to rebuild my own at home ?

[@mazen723]

These solenoids are sold by the piece, and don't come cheap, I remember I bought each for 100$ , buy the broken one , not all 5 of them , see my posted video on cleaning and testing solenoids, also more documents on this particular transmission on the Hyundai forum , name Mazen 57. Hope that was useful to you.

[@MrShortStuff]

@@mazen723 thanks buddy, and sorry didn't get notification that you responded. You can normally order solenoids from china as they refurbish everything there. For my Evo X they upgrade solenoid to plastic ones so less chance of metal fragments blocking them up. Whole set was about $500 AUD and best investment ever.

[@davidaguayo3785]

How are you I don't know if you steel on youtube I install a Rosetta solenoid on my plymouth laser for some reason car turns of when put in gear

[@douarabachir1718]

hi this is a very good video thx a lot , i have Sonata with same transmission and i have a problem with it , hard shifting with first gear in the morning it make a noise after that it work fine , but also the first gear sleeping when i use mode D (normal mode ) but with sport mode it work fine . please help me

[@douarabachir1718]

Plz help me

[@MattsMotorz]

Sorry for the late reply. What year is the vehicle? Does the transmission fluid smell burnt at all? Is it clean? Is it filled to the correct level?

[@douarabachir1718]

the year of vehicle is 2004,the fluid smell is not like it burnt , and it is clean because i flush the transmission , for the level i have a leak from the seal of torque converter , but i add fluid after driving it more then 1000 km

[@MattsMotorz]

Well it looks like you have the basics covered. This question is very difficult to answer without investing serious time into studying the service manual or without any line pressure readings. My advice is to bring it to a transmission shop. Sorry I can't be more helpful but transmissions are complicated machines and it would take far too much effort on my part to look into this problem. If you can get me some line pressure readings of the various hydraulic circuits during the problem, then then I might be able to help a bit more, but It would still be an investment on my part. (I made a video on how to measure line pressure).

[@douarabachir1718]

thx a lot for this advices and for all your informative and helpful videos, all the basics that i covered it is by your work man

[@maxmad2457]

Many thanks for good lesson! Very usefull video! Just two questions: - What solenoid from 5 is responsible for inclusion as forward, and a reverse gear? - How to check electric chains without uncovering transmission?

[@ericsalazargarro1712]

mi friend ty great video and is the same transmission as mi tucson2006 finally I can change the oil filter

[@MattsMotorz]

Don't do it. The oil filter is a non-servicable item on these transmissions. It isn't meant to be changed regularly and with the fluid like a normal filter. It is HOURS of work and you will notice no difference and it will do nothing for you. The only time I would recommend a person changing an oil filter for this transmission is if they were exhibiting symptoms of a clogged filter, such as the transmission only working for a short period of time after start up.

[@nebrashijazi6355]

I cant find your video about transmission flush. Great video btw

[@эдсеверный]

Thank you, very helped for repair. Sorry do not speak Your language, but almost everything is clear.

[@gerard4449]

Thanks for the video. A lot of work. just wondering how much knowledge you have on the F4A42/51 boxes? I've got the 51 on what would be a Diamante in the US. It's a rebuilt/reconditioned box with about 70 000k on it. Actually was a warranty replacement from Mits, 3 boxes in all went in from the same builder. the previous to this it was impossible to get the selector to move until warmed up and delayed engagement, this one is just showing symptoms of the same issue except it's Drive that it starts to jam / or bind going in and with the cooler weather 1-2secs for engagement. reverse seems fine, After a few minutes of running Drive frees up and instant engagement. I have a theory that the manual valve is jamming but honestly not sure. A bit scared to start messing with the valve body. I have had a suggestion the neutral switch may be part of the issue. i do think it's not going into the correct position which causes the delayed shift because it's very hard to slip into D and does not really feel it's going in correctly or all the way. Been driving for 30 years and weirdest thing I've struck. even my local magna forum has never heard of the issue. Any ideas or heard of this before?

[@MattsMotorz]

Gerard Nolan The F4A51 is very similar to the F4A42. In face, the F4A42 and F4A51 are both in the same rebuild manual. Huh that is an odd issue. I would wager the problem lies in the linkage / gear position switch rather than inside the transmission. This is what I would do first. Pop the hood and remove the air box assembly. Inspect where the shift cable attaches to the transmission to see if there is anything weird going on. Remove the shift cable and manually move the gear lever on the transmission to see if it will move smoothly between each selection. You can see what I am talking about at 0:39 in this video. The lever with the square hole. Let me know what happens.

[@gerard4449]

Cheers, thanks for helping out I really appreciate it. I probably could have given you more info in the beginning. I've checked the cable, no fouling, disconnected it and the shifter is loose as, nil resistance. That's where I've stopped. I've got it in my head it's internal but have not removed the inhibitor switch to check it. the improvement with temp and having the car running has me stumped. It does feel through the selector very gritty or metal on metal grind. hard to explain in words. It's hard t imagine the contacts in the switch gear but then I guess i should not assume. I was thinking the manual valve/bore may be worn and the manual valve binds as extends out of the body. I'm going to have to do something, i don't like the idea of the valve may be in the wrong position causing delayed engagement but I have read the switch can cause the same issue so maybe i should look closer at that. 2 boxes in a row from the same builder has my curiousity. Are you qualified mechanic or just one of these clever blokes that can put his hand to anything?It was very educational seeing inside these, may give me some confidence to at least remove the front pan and check it out.Does the F4A42 suffer from 2-3 shift flare too on it's first shift?

[@MattsMotorz]

I just wanna make sure I fully understand. So you removed the cable and then checked the shifter inside the car to see if it binds up at all and it doesn't, correct? You need to check the shifter on the transmission. (Where the cable attaches to) Move it with your hand through the different gears (while the car is off) and see if it binds up at all. If it does bind up, then you should remove the transmission range sensor (gear selector sensor, inhibitor switch, ect.) and then try moving the gear selector again with no switch on the shaft. It is interesting how it goes away with temperature increase, and interesting how the same builder has caused the same problem twice. I don't have any comments on that. I don't like to speculate. As for me, I have passed the ASE exams but have never worked as a mechanic. I am actually a PhD student who does this stuff in my spare time. I have read countless books and literature on cars (especially transmissions) and it is my second passion. I have fixed cars for people as a small business on the side, but don't have enough time for that anymore. Anyway let me know what happens!

[@gerard4449]

Hi matt, not much progress as my other mitsubishi has dumped a coil or ignitor module so not getting a chance to experiment with the magna being the last car running. It's still doing it, today I went the whole hog and removed the inhibitor switch but the car had been driven so although felt a little rough not binding enough to jam. With the switch off, i felt nothing unusual, it's full plastic body and spindle. fully dismantled it and definitely wear in there. you could see scrape marks and portions worn low enough to expose copper under the contact plating. the grease in there was getting cruddy , looked much like a coppery paste in parts. I fully cleaned it up and repacked it with electrical grease. It is possible to move the selector slow enough to get N & D to illuminate at once. I don't think after looking at the switch there's a fault just it's being exaggerated when the selector stiffens because it's slow and resistive to move. With it off, I clicked by hand the selector and I can feel a definitely difference in feel going in and out of D. fro N to r it feels slippery smooth, but N-D it has a gritty feel. there's no corrosion around the shaft and transaxle housing, ther was some oily residue maybe from assembly. did not feel like trans fluid. I sprayed WD40 around the sahaft and rapidly moved it back and forth R-N-D-N-R etc. the Wd40 just sat there so that suggests the O-ring arounf the shaft is good and all I saw was the WD40 mixing with the alloy oxide and produce a grey pool of WD40. I am thinking worst case scenario that there is wear in the VALVE BODY / manual valve and debris trapped? Or and I don't know if it's possible but severely worn A/T MANUAL CONTROL SHAFT DETENT, or MANUAL CONTROL LEVER SHAFT (rooster as you call it in the video) It seems really weird just the one position of the manual valve is giving trouble too if it was debris as I'd expect it to cause all movement to bind up. I do think I'm looking at internals though now. I don't see any seals on that manual valve either that could brak and foul, looks like metal on metal in the valve body. I did find some other makes with similar syptoms, BMW which there was varied opinions including the trundles in the part that bolts to the arm. www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1076763-Stiff-automatic-transmission-gear-shift I checked my pivot point at the end of the cable, it spins nice and free. Also Tacoma which has an alloy bodied switch which severely corrodes due to salt also similar symptoms . www.tacomaworld.com/threads/05-tacoma-stiff-automatic-gear-shifter.153019/page-3 I'm not thinking switch at all now

[@MattsMotorz]

Sounds like you're being really throughout! I like it! Yeah with all that information, I would definitely say it is something inside the transmission. There is no way to say for sure except to open up the side of the transmission and take a look. It should be completely possible to do it with the transmission in the vehicle. All you need to do is remove the valve body cover on the side. Then you can get a look at all the linkage from the shaft to the rooster comb and to the manual valve. If all looks well, you would need to remove the valve body and then you can move the manual valve by hand and see if it is binding up there. No dissasembly is required of the valvebody. (Take a look at which bolts I took out when I removed it, some of them do not need to be removed as they do not go all the way through to the transmission case. And keep track of where EACH ONE GOES. Torque them to spec when re-installing!) If its the bore in the valve body that is causing the binding, then it needs to be polished up. Get some fine grit sand paper (I believe about 800 grit) and roll it in a cylinder, then put it in the bore all the way down and let the cylinder roll expand in the bore. Move the paper up and down and twist. Clean with a solvent that wont leave a residue such as brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Test the manual valve, and repeat until smooth.

[@Adrian-cy9jc]

transmision fluid used ?

[@psions555]

Mitsubishi Diamond SPIII or Hyundai Kia SPIII. Provided you are sure it's for a F4A as USDM models use a Chrysler box. Only ever use this fluid and never use additives as the consistency and properties of the fluid have to be exact for correct operation. These are not as forgiving as a typical slushbox, they need everything to be exact and on point

[@slimsaja2319]

Thks for your video, very inspiring

[@crash_override9435]

Getting ready to tear apart my F4A33. This at least gave me some courage.

[@MrPapasmurf1961]

HAVE A 2002 eclipseGT automatic transmission I PUT IT IN DRIVE WONT MOVE BUT CAN FEEL IT WANT TO AND I PULLED TRANS HOUSE OF THE RAD AND RESTART THE CAR NO FLUID COMES OUT

[@MattsMotorz]

If the transmission has enough fluid in it, you might be looking at a bad pump, which means you will be needing a new transmission. (Bring it to a trans place to be sure, you can never be too sure when it comes to transmissions as they are very complicated.)

[@MattsMotorz]

Or you can measure the line pressure. That will tell you for sure whether it is the pump. I made a video on how to do this.

[@MrPapasmurf1961]

Thanks

[@exclusivek1]

Hi is there a way to contact you for questions

[@rodneymatthews25]

can i install a lsd in that

[@merenguesfranco8418]

Dear friend, when you can, answer the question to see what I can do in that case!, thanks and excellent video

[@Bit-while_going]

So many things go wrong with this thing and every time it must be disassembled to find the little fix. Pump clogged: just take it apart and install the new one. Instead the whole car is going to the dump.

[@rxwhat33]

an automatic transmission is the single most complicated thing in the world.

[@Cjbarker2]

It's up there with them, for sure, right beside PLC cabinets.

[@Usmanthemecano]

anthony romano I think it's cuz you're not used to seeing it undone and rebuilt... Nothing a man do is that complex remember that

[@hondatrix]

Women...

[@BigDderrell]

hondatrix You nailed it.

[@automaticosdovale-cambioautoma]

Good job! Brasil.

[@tarencemusako9526]

i luv it man en u da best

[@geojor]

interesting stuff, thank you...

[@Redblower]

great...thanks

[@MohdImran-ik4qp]

Hello sir how are you

[@RCsFinest]

This identical to the f4a51

[@angelruiz6361]

amigo tus videos son muy interesante, tamben lo que comentas vervalmente megustaria que lo que dices en los video por favor que lo sodtitulen seria genial saludos