Advanced Throop Tiger Tips and Tricks

[@Gibson_custom_rods_and_repairs]

Thank you Bill. I’ve watched this video many times to make sure I’m doing this correct and to realize the time and redoing the wrap is worth the investment to get something I like.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

I totally agree...hard lesson to learn but worth it! At the end of the day...thread is cheap. Special rods last forever.

[@richdonovan2385]

Really like how you explain it. Simple and to the point. Thanks!

[@eldridgeburrows9570]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us much appreciated

[@wickeditr]

Awesome tips as always. On the sacrificial threads, I just use less expensive and abundant thread I have (i.e. black & white) I learned this after tossing sacrificial metallic thread and thought better of it. Also, you can choose contrasting thread colors to help you see crossovers or other mistakes especially with size A thread.

[@paulmcdonald9074]

Another great video, man I've been there and it sucks to have to remove and start again but it does make THE difference. Thanks again and keep em coming!!!!!

[@docski377]

Again you did a great job with this video.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Coming from a Master like you that means a lot! Thanks Doc!

[@cbayless4294]

Great vid!! The way you explain things makes it very easy to follow for a person just getting into rod building!!

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Glad you liked it! Please like and subscribe...and let me know if there are other topics that would be helpful.

[@cbayless4294]

@@masteringrodbuilding How about a vid that describes thread? type,were to use, when to use color preserver.

[@josdevisser7146]

Everything is simple and very well explained, thank you for that. Maybe do one on custom carbon handles.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks! Please like and subscribe. Yeah...I've been thinking about carbon fiber for a while. That's a massive, multi-video project for sure. Appreciate the suggestion.

[@deuces2k]

Thanks Bill! Liked the tip on mixing the nylon thread colours. Great series so far!

[@jonramos2161]

Awesome, awesome, awesome. Thank you, Sir!

[@michaelmiller2576]

Thank you - I appreciate the tips and the fact you are detailed about the wrap

[@eldridgeburrows9570]

Awesome! Bill much appreciated.

[@jonhood922]

ANOTHER excellent informative video Bill!

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching, Jon!

[@socalsteve22]

Solid information! Thanks!

[@dorflonnigan4413]

great information

[@TackleAdvisors]

Spectacular info. And yeah. That G4 continues to impress with every build. Do you plan on putting out content more frequently?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

I am planning on it...but my real job and travel keep me sort of spotty. But trying to get through the list of stuff I want to get out there.

[@frankfrok1265]

I had another look because it is a great video and I have a question. Why is one thread left on the final wrap? Has it been done by sacrificing all threads? Thank you, Frank

[@eldridgeburrows9570]

Bill how about a tutorial on carbon grips.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Stay tuned…coming soon

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Eldridge Burrows ask and ye shall receive! m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqG9aqKhhtCsrq8

[@KLOutdoor]

My question is do you want to make the first wrap kind of loose so it can burnish better or make it tight? I made my first wrap tight and it did not get wavy at all

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching…please like and subscribe! Sounds like your base wrap tension was too high. Tension on both the base wrap AND the over wrap should be fairly loose. I cover this in the basic tiger video…but it should be loose enough to move fairly easily without rolling or overlapping. Much less tension than a guide wrap for example. Check out 7:32 in this video: m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmGYoJiGi7ead80 You also have to take care to let the finish coats on the base wrap fully cure before completing the overwrap. I usually let it set for 36-48 hours…until it is hard enough it doesn’t dent easily with a fingernail. If you wrap over while it is still soft at all - even with proper tension - it will dig into the finish and it won’t move when your burnish it. Hope this helps!

[@KLOutdoor]

@@masteringrodbuilding thanks man, you’re videos are super informative, subbed

[@arthurtagle2029]

Where do you get the glow ?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe. You can get it lots of places...but Astro Glow from Patrick Adair Supplies and the stuff from Techno Glow Products seems to work best. Bear in mind that if you use enough to glow well it will make your epoxy sort of hazy and opaque. So try to match your glow color to your thread and EXPERIMENT on test wraps before applying to a rod. Good luck!

[@shelbyshannon758]

what glow pig meant do you use ,good video very good info thanks------%---~

[@masteringrodbuilding]

I use the brightest color glow powder from www.technoglowproducts.com but you have to experiment a bit. Too much powder makes your epoxy cloudy...too little and it doesn’t glow. Do NOT put the powder in your final epoxy coat if you want a high gloss finish. Hope this helps!

[@shelbyshannon758]

@@masteringrodbuilding Thanks

[@craigcampbell2687]

What did you do differently to achieve your desired result?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe. Craig I'm not sure I understand the question? Did you watch the basic Throop Tiger Wrap video? I think there are a lot of keys to getting the desired result: using the EXACT same threads top and bottom, using light thread tension, using 4 coats on the underwrap, letting the finish on the under wraps set completely before over wrapping, burnishing both layers, etc. Can you be more specific?

[@johnnydelgado5459]

Can you use more than one metallic thread?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Absolutely you can. This is custom...you can do anything! Just keep in mind that you still need a lot of contrast in the base wrap to get a good effect. So in my experience you want a very dark thread, a very light thread, and one somewhere in between...even if two of them are metallics. And if you are going to use two metallics I'd make sure it's a three thread Tiger. You lose some contrast and depth to me if ALL (both threads in a two thread tiger) are metallic. Also, I'd recommend always using two metallics of the same size (like both size A thread). Finally - and this is completely subjective and just my opinion - I'd be careful using a metallic thread as the final top thread. Experiment for yourself and see what you like, but a shiny metallic top thread (the one you don't sacrifice on the overwrap) seems to detract from the depth and color of the wrap to me. To my eye, a metallic top is kind of loud and smothers or flattens the wrap a lot of the time...especially light colored metallics (silver, gold, etc.). But experiment and see what you like. Hope this helps...good luck!

[@johnnydelgado5459]

Thanks so much for the detailed response it definitely helps. Awesome work by the way!

[@masteringrodbuilding]

@@johnnydelgado5459 You are most welcome. Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe!

[@lanele1058]

Why not use cheap threads for your sacrificials?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Hello Lane - thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe! You can use cheap thread for your sacrificials. However, if they are a different size at all - even fractionally larger or smaller - they will disrupt the pattern and you might wind up with a barber pole repetitive pattern instead of a random pattern. I have even had trouble trying to use Size A regular nylon as a sacrificial when I used the same brand size A NOCP as the base wrap. So use whatever you want...but understand that it may affect your pattern. The only way I have found to get a great pattern 100% of the time is to use the EXACT same threads for the base wrap and the overwrap...including keeping the sacrificials the same. Hope this helps!