Fallkniven F1 vs. H1 review!

Fallkniven F1 vs. H1 review
Hello, KZbin!
This is a direct comparison between the Fallkniven F1 and H1. These two knives are virtually identical in size and very close in cost, but have distinct handle types, spine thicknesses and blade geometries. Since both are popular outdoor knives - the F1 is legendary and the H1 is gaining more notoriety in this regard - I decided to pick them both up and put them through the paces. Enjoy.
If you want to jump to a particular part, I've made the below timecode references for you. Clicking on the time should jump you there:
Intro/Sapling Cut: 0:00
Baton Chopping 3" Tree: 6:22
Firewood Batoning: 13:21
Chopping/Batoning Bamboo: 18:34
Notching/Slicing Green Wood: 23:36
Feathersticking: 25:43
Fire Steel Spark Throwing: 29:04
Thoughts and Used Condition: 32:03
Reconditioned Edges and Final Thoughts: 43:26
Quick personal thoughts on knife performance are listed below. These are based on perceived performance rated on a scale of 0-5, with five being the highest value. The exact values are somewhat arbitrary, but it allows me more specific comparisons has I encounter more knives. Again, these are my personal thoughts only based on my use.
Fallkniven F1
Initial Sharpness: 4.2
Slicing/Notching: 4.5
Shaving/Feathersticking: 4.5
Batoning: 4
Heavy Baton-chopping: 4
Drilling: NA
Rust Resistance: 5
Sheath Design: 3.8
Fire Steel Sparks: 4.8
Steel Durability (VG-10 on this geometry): 2.5
Edge Retention: 2
Ease of Restoring Edge: 4
Value: 3 (currently $120 online)
Overall Rating: 3 (based on experience, not a mathematical average)
Fallkniven H1
Initial Sharpness: 4.2 (factory/modified convex)
Slicing/Notching: 4
Shaving/Feathersticking: 4
Batoning: 4.5
Heavy Baton-chopping: 4
Drilling: NA
Rust Resistance: 5
Sheath Design: 4.5
Fire Steel Sparks: 5
Steel Durability (VG-10 on this geometry): 4.7
Edge Retention: 4.5
Ease of Restoring Edge: 3
Value: 4.2 (currently $145 online)
Overall Rating: 4.5 (based on experience, not a mathematical average)

[@amos3106]

One true great review there! Hard to see a review this great now.

[@GabeMacDonnell]

Thanks for the very helpful video! I'm having a tough time deciding!

[@Tomadair1]

Your love of these knives is very apparent from this video,in my opinion an absolutely first class review, and on that basis I have subscribed and look forward to more outstanding reviews and information ,thank you for your hard work and dedication in the production of this fine video.Regards Tom Adair.

[@OneDegreeLife]

Wow, thanks for the kind words Tom! Cheers, brother!

[@maika0staretza]

oooups ... now how did i miss this ? thank you for the comparison

[@vikingblast3582]

Great, thorough review! Helped me decide on the H1!

[@OneDegreeLife]

+Brian Etheridge Glad it was helpful! I was in the same boat. There are some new Pro versions (at least of some models), but they are substantially more expensive on projection. The H1 is my favorite Fallkniven. I also like the S1 quite a bit for the extra length, but actually prefer the handle on the H1. I really hope you love it! Cheers

[@nvsweddings]

Thanks for the in-depth comparison! I am buying one of those knives and couldn’t make up my mind until I saw your review! Great job! I always liked the H1 design but I was afraid it was too thick and now you convinced me to buy one :)

[@paulie4x1]

Thanx for your advice, the H-1 is now paired off with my A-1, along with my custom Iltis Oxhead Axe, and my Wood Handle Fiskar Saw, I'm good to go, shelter, fire prep, and I also can trust my life on this set up, its really a light set up in my backpack,Thanx again Bro.

[@catherinehowarth9184]

Will be buying it after the summer, I've got a condor bushlore keeping me occupied till then. Thanks again for the review by the way, one of the most thorough I've seen on KZbin. If more people saw this I'm pretty sure the H1 would become more popular than the F1! Also the review would create an interesting discussion if posted on a bushcraft forum :) take care!

[@kanukkarhu]

Great review I thought. Very well done and honest too. In fact, I subbed. I'd be interested in a review/comparison of more in the Fallkniven line. Trying to decide which fallkniven I should get for general woods use...

[@OneDegreeLife]

I don't think I want to try anything bigger than the S1 right now and there's only a hunter that I've seen that isn't too small. I've looked at the S1, H1 and F1 and that's probably all I'm going to get to for a while. I have 3-4 other blades that I'm in the process of looking at for review, but I'm out of the country for much of the summer so it might be several months before I get back out. If you like a longer blade, I like the S1, and the H1 for a shorter, but stouter knife. I'm sure they make many more fine knives, but I'm looking at more BRKT, ESEE and BJK for at least the near future. Cheers!

[@paulie4x1]

You answered my question, again great video, I'm going with the H-1.

[@OneDegreeLife]

Yes, many users recommend a secondary bevel on VG-10. I did a complete convex to the edge and they held up better than factory in my use, but the H1 was significantly better overall. I have a Sharpmaker as well. I do like it, but typically prefer stone sharpening as I usually don't have a secondary. Thanks for the great advice and I hope others benefit from it. Cheers!

[@catherinehowarth9184]

Great video! Very thorough and informative. Whilst doing research I noticed many other people had the same "blade chipping" problem with their F1, however apparently it only occurred with the factory edge. Users who had sharpened their knives until the microbevel created by the factory grind had been removed reported good blade strength. Have you put your f1 through hard use since the review? If so, did it still chip? I'd like to know even though I've decided on the H1 after watching this!Thanks

[@OneDegreeLife]

Thank you for the encouraging feedback. Honestly, I'm so busy I haven't wanted to post it further and risk getting behind on forum discussions. I almost didn't post it because I knew that my thoughts would likely bother many Fallkniven faithful, but it was all an honest experience. I love Fallks, but felt the F1 wasn't the best option for me. I know it would likely make great discussion, perhaps ill consider it in the next few months. Take care!

[@sebastianforbes1]

Thanks for your efforts - I've just picked up the H1, from the official Swedish website, in 3G, at 50% discount !

[@OneDegreeLife]

Wow! Nice.

[@OneDegreeLife]

I might visit the 3G version in the future. Seems on par with some 3V Barkies. We'll see what's up then. I LOVED this knife's potential and REALLY wanted it to be awesome. I just didn't experience that in this go around. I can't recommend it, but thousands of people LOVE them! Best of luck in your hunt brother!

[@paulie4x1]

Say Heah , I ordered my Fallkniven H-1 before this video , I think, But so far I think I made the right choice, I like teaming knives and I like them to match, I wanted something to combo with my Fallkniven A-1. Right now I was teaming it with my Cold Steel Mini Pendleton, I also have a Master Hunter in the San Mai 3, But mostly I'll be using my new set in wet and snowy weather. My Go To Fav. prolly is my modified Rodent 6 which I had thinned down and the to gaurd taken iff, Now it looks like a Ratmandu on steriods. But yeah, I think I made a good choice. I won't be sitting around a camp fire carving a spoon and besides what I like to do is scout new area's and having afternoon delights a hot cup of coffee on a open fire. Thanx You for a great review. Thanx. ,, .

[@cdb-ez6xg]

Nice review! I appreciate the no-nonsense, direct-to-the-point approach. I'm considering an H1 and wondering which blade material you'd choose, or if you'd go another route completely? Thanks, your feedback is appreciated.

[@OneDegreeLife]

All of the Fallkniven's I've tried have been in the VG10. Never tried the 3G. I've considered it, but keep trying different models when I have the money unless it's a blade that I've really loved and then tried different handle materials and steels. Cheers!

[@OneDegreeLife]

Hey paulie4x1! Sorry it's taken some time. These 60-70 hour weeks have been taking a toll on me. I'm glad you found what you were looking for and I hope you enjoy that H1! Of the two, it was my favorite. If you want a bigger blade, the S1 is also very good and has a longer, narrower tip. I did like the H1 better all around of these two. Cheers

[@paulie4x1]

Another food for thought, the H-1 is a similar blade design to my Skookum Bush Tool, designed by Rod Garcia,, he got the idea from Mors Kochanski, and I love my Skookum, in fact it became my favorite style bushcraft knife.

[@JayBradford]

After watching this video I went ahead and pulled the trigger on an H1 and have no regrets so far. This season I've used it to gut, skin and process 3 moose, 2 deer, 1 boar and actually haven't had to resharpen it. Good quality knife indeed. The only drawback is that my S1 don't get as much usage it deserves. Anyhow, thanks for the excellent work and GREETINGS from Sweden!

[@OneDegreeLife]

Wonderful! Glad to hear you are enjoying your knife. I'm also glad to hear input from a hunter about the knife! I hope to visit Sweden some day, we'll see how things go. Cheers, brother.

[@paulie4x1]

Very nice video, Thanx for helping me decide between the two knives, in fact the timing couldn't be better, since the cutting, wood work was very close, I will go with the H-1, the stronger blade is my preference, if all other facts are similar, again Thanx a bunch, you really helped me.

[@SpartanJohns]

the vg10 on the F1 rolled pretty severly. for my friend, as he uses his for hunting, i put a very steep convex on it. rather a steep micro bevel. About 30 dps. It is sharp and won't bite that well into wood but it holds its edge very well...as I mentioned every time i check the blade i still find micro chips.

[@jeetts59]

Nice review, I have a f1 top tool. Is it legal to damage living trees in your country? Here in Australia, it’s totally illegal for obvious reasons

[@LetoAt77]

Thanks for the great vid! It was very helpful and informative. I currently have a F1 and will be soon be getting an H1. I've noticed a lot of people have switched from their F1's to H1's as their primary carry knives. Can you put up some Waterstone sharpening vids on sharpening your H1 and F1 in the future? I've only sharpened non convex edges on Waterstones personally bc I've been afraid of messing up the convex grind... Thanks again.

[@OneDegreeLife]

***** Hey, Thanks for the reply! I no longer own either of these knives. I liked the H1, but decided to sell it after some time to purchase/try out other knives. Virtuovice has great convex sharpening videos you can view immediately, if you like, and our techniques are similar for the most part. If I get some time, yes, I'll do one to show how I treat convex edges. Cheers!

[@LetoAt77]

Hey thanks brother! I watch Dr. Wacko's channel often, I don't recall him sharpening any convex edges on Waterstones, just stropping and sandpaper on top of a mousepad. I would def like to learn how to sharpen convex on the Waterstones though. Thanks again brother and thanks for all of the great videos!

[@OneDegreeLife]

***** I'll look into doing one the next time I get the stones out to recondition one. I can't find any of Virtuo's where he discusses technique thoroughly, but here's one of him working on a convex - kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqqwZaRmeceSf9E To get an idea of how I approach it, check out this one of mine - kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6jPgaqBo7Srebs It's how I go about removing a V edge, but the approach to holding and motion are failry similar. Check back!

[@LetoAt77]

Hey thanks again brother much appreciated! I did a fairly good job convexing and prepping my fiancés Mora SS Bushcarft Survival today using the slight rocking motion. I was able to raise/blend the bevel and put a nice razors edge complete covex.. Thus far it's ge best one I've ever done and I'll continue practicing on my less expensive knives. Typically I would do a bit more practice on my less expensive knives but she's going on a hiking/camping trip without me this weekend and I had to get it done. Thanks again brother!

[@nvsweddings]

I never owed a Fallkniven but in my experience micro secondary bevel at 40° is a smart thing to do with your blade if you plan some heavy tasks like chopping or battoning. I use Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker to make secondary micro bevel on all my new knives. I beat the cr*p out of my Cold Steel Trail Master in SMIII (convex laminated VG-1) and it is still shaving after that. Never had any chipping or rolling issues.

[@OneDegreeLife]

I got chipping both ways, both before and after removing the micro V edge. It mainly occurred on the belly portion and I really started to notice much more after the bamboo test. There were a few tiny, tiny nicks and rolls after batoning, but nothing I would call major. The H1 held up MUCH better and after stone sharpening it was easily as sharp, but the overall profile is not as thin, so it was stronger. The F1 was very easy to restore.

[@ActionHero29]

Great review and comparison, thank you for the effort. I noticed you mentionned that your F1 had a kind of a V edge when you got it? I was looking at one yesterday in a store and it had what seemed to me to be a flat grind going on a steep convex near the edge of the blade,no V, at least that's what it looked like to me.

[@OneDegreeLife]

I agree that the F1 does have a flat grind on the face and then it rounds (convex) at the transition - or at least mine did. I mentioned it in one of the vids, but not sure if it was this one. The "V" I'm talking about was the micro bevel. It was very small and subtle - kind of like what comes on many of the BRKTs. Nothing as obvious and deliberate as say, an ESEE. I got better performance IMO (as others in forums have mentioned) after removing that micro bevel. You might be able to see it in my unboxing video, but I didn't show it specifically [kzbin.info/www/bejne/qX-XmIOLmtx1f6Mm49s]. Again, nothing serious. I just prefer my blades convex to the cutting point. If there is a "micro bevel" that is added from stropping, etc, it's just a slightly steeper convex and not a hard angle. If it has one, you'll see a quick light shift in the reflection.

[@ActionHero29]

Indeed, thanks for your reply.

[@mickeymouse9654]

Fallkniven H1 is not a knife for a buscraft, it is a hunting knife for skinning, cutting and processing meat! Today, everyone seems to be obsessed with buscraft, instead of using axes and saws for buscraft, they want to do it with a knife!

[@OneDegreeLife]

There’s also a trend where people don’t seem to think knives can or should be used for anything but their “intended purpose”. At the end of the day it’s a cutting tool. I dot hike with axes or saws. That’s just my preference.

[@mickeymouse9654]

@@OneDegreeLife Do whatever you want... 😏👍

[@SpartanJohns]

i liked the tests! I must say: the H1 looks very interesting. I like the thick handle! One can always thin the grind.

[@OneDegreeLife]

Yes! The H1 is a very unique blade and performed well for me! It had the most durable VG-10 sampling from Fallkniven that I've tried, a tad better than the S1, but it's also a tad thicker. It also has a unique belly line that is advantageous in many situations.

[@paulie4x1]

One question, now that you experienced both knives, and you had to choose between the two, which knife would you take into the wilderness, Thanx in advance.

[@stevanoutdoor]

Bamboo is hard but it's a grass and not wood. Anyway. I do agree with your conclusion and for me with my big hands the H1 is the only Fallkniven that has a comfortable handle for prolongued use making it a knife I would take for bushcraft. The F1 isn't for bushcraft unless you have very small hands because the handle is very thin. It's still comfortable enough for short term use and it's more lightweight and has a slim profile. That's what's it's designed for.

[@drcstudios]

yeah, who knows, seems like a really nice knife and a lot of people are really high on it... heck, i'm gonna buy one myself - that's why I watched you video.

[@FearNoSteel]

Nice sharpening. I guess you made the geometry to thin on the f1. Thanks for sharing. What's your opinion on 3g?

[@OneDegreeLife]

Big Brown The F1 was a little thinner after yes, because of the metal damage, but still tapered. That, or I'd have had to make it crazy steep leaving me with an axe. Ha. I never got around to trying the 3G. Cheers

[@FearNoSteel]

Thanks for the reply. I have to know, what's your current favorite bushcraft blade?

[@OneDegreeLife]

It's been a while since I've tried anything new. So, my current favorite wilderness knife is the BRKT Camp and Trail. I also really like the GSO 4.1, so it's a close second. I'd like to try some different models again in the coming months.

[@FearNoSteel]

Nice. That brkt is a beast. Is the gso in 3v? I here nothing but good things about Survive knives but they take alot of effort to purchase because of supply and demand.

[@OneDegreeLife]

Ya, the GSO is 3V with a great heat treat. A very capable blade for sure. I prefer the handle on the BRKT Bravo 1 better for that style of knife, but the 4.1 is still very good - if a tad narrow. Yes, they are very hard to get your hands on. From looking to obtaining took around a year or so for a knife that was already "in production". Very, very good if you can get one.

[@OneDegreeLife]

As sure as I can be. I got it from DLT trading, like I do pretty much every knife, and I trust them and their inventory. The thought ran through my mind, but the H1 and S1 held up well. I suppose it could have been a "weak" copy, but that was my experience. Kinda sux. Maybe in the future, I'll try another copy, but man, I was bummed.

[@micheletennis87]

Hello, I would first like to ask you if the Fallkniven F1 is really a very good knife is robust? He takes long blade? no oxide? The I just bought and I would be interested in the sheath kidex, you did it or did you buy it? it would be possible to have it?

[@OneDegreeLife]

+Michele Trekkning The specs for the F1 are on the Fallkniven website as well as most vendors. The blade is 3.8" long. There is no factory Kydex sheath that I'm aware of, this one is Zytel which is a very similar plastic, but thinner than most Kydex. The blade is laminated steel so it has EXCELLENT oxidation resistance - rust. In my opinion, the F1isn't all that robust. I, and many others, have had problems with edge retention, etc. For the size and price there are better options. Some are more expensive. If you love Fallkniven I recommend the H1 if you want to do anything harder on an edge. Other options are the Bark River Gunny and multiple steels, even A2 is excellent, but 3V and Elmax are also great choices, but MUCH more expensive. The Cold Steel Master Hunter in 3V has a very similar handle and better performance and is LESS expensive, but the blade is larger. Hope this helps.

[@OneDegreeLife]

Hello, Romania! Like most steels it depends on the company and heat treat. D2 from a good supplier like Benchmade, BRKT, etc. might be ok. I had the option to go with D2 and opted for O1 instead. I'm no expert and I might give it a try again, maybe on an Enzo. Consider the edge too. D2 in convex or "V" might be better than in zero scandi, for example. I prefer A2 for quick sharpness/restoring, 3V for edge retention, VG10 (S1 and H1, not F1). Want to try Elmax too. Heard it's great. Good luck!

[@OneDegreeLife]

I used it further, but nearly this hard. As I mentioned I normally just do basic camp chores and some mild batoning, but want to KNOW how it would hold up if pushed. The H1 is better in MY opinion for it's combo of sharpness (esp. once stone sharpened), strength and edge retention. If you like the almost continuous belly sweep, its OUTSTANDING. The F1 is a classic and a great knife, but I didn't have the best experience with it. Hope you enjoy that H1!!!

[@OneDegreeLife]

You know, of all the knives I've test (even before KZbin) the F1 is the one that keeps gnawing at me. I know that DLT has legit products, but I'm wondering if I just got a bad one. I do know others that had the steel chip, but nothing like what happened to mine. I've been considering a second go with one. I gave the last one away after resharpening it. I just got 5 new $ knives in I haven't tested yet. Maybe I'll try it again in the coming months. I loved the H1 for sure! Cheers!

[@LetoAt77]

Hey brother, I've been reading on forums that Fallknivens will chip initially until you get if of the micro bevel and after restoring they no longer chip unless you hit a rock or something similar etc... Any chance in the future we could see a vid of Fallkniven H1 or F1 in 3G vs a BRKT in 3V go head to head and to make it fair removing both of their micro bevels before hand?

[@OneDegreeLife]

***** My experience was similar - better after the micro bevel is out - on both Fallkniven and BRKT 3V. The Fallkniven's in 3G are pretty pricey and since supposedly the 3G is MORE prone to chipping than the VG from what I've read, I'm not sure it would be a worthwhile investment. At least with the 3V, my experience has been it's noticeably better once out. I will continue to look into the 3G and see what happens. I'd like to see that comparison as well, but at the cost, it might be much further down my list. We'll see. Cheers!

[@LetoAt77]

Hey thanks brother! I've read mixed reviews as well in regards to 3G chipping. I read some really detailed posts in Knifeforum on the subject by guys that have both BRKT & FN and love them both.. From what I was gathering they were saying the 3G chips less.. Mike Stewart is also a member at knifeforums and commented that 3G chips less than 3V and recommended FN based on the persons needs and environment.. Mr. Stewart really is a class act to recommend other companies as the persons needs deem fit. Anyways I found all of the info interesting in regards to 3G vs VG10 & 3V from people who have lots of experience with both and use both on a regular basis. I have been really torn on weather to purchase a Gunny 3V or H1 3G as I can't afford them both! 😃 Anyways, cheers brother and hope all is well.

[@LetoAt77]

I appreciate it! I may have to put my F1 on water stones, I've stropped for nearly a week now and still get rid of the microbevel. Which grit do you recommend starting with, 1k? I have all Shapton's 340, 1k & 5k. I was thinking 1k as to take off as little material as possible. Thanks again brother and hope you're having a good summer.

[@OneDegreeLife]

Of the ones you list, I'd start with the 1000, yes. Might go slower, but will prevent you from cutting too much as could be possible with the 340. To remove the bevel and not excessive amounts of additional metal, I've found it best to work longer and wear it down than to go too much with lower grit. Good luck!

[@Macovic]

I have continued using my F1 but not so much. I agree on the handle. That F1 looked really bad until you fixed it. Do you still think ot worked out good? I never had issues with chipping with moderate batoning with the F1 and VG10. A lot of batoning. But I have never been brutal or forces it throguh knots. I actually get more chips in 1095 with Tops knives ( still like them but not the handles). Which I thought I upgraded to. I have convexed my Tops Brakimo towars the edge to get rid of the secondary bevel and also make it tougher. Switch handles to hickory (took an axe handle) on the Top as well. Hacking I have almost never done with the F1. I never got the H1. I often wished I got the H1. I really dig the handle shape on the H1. I have recently gotten the Nieto Terran Scandi N699 co, the steel is similar to Vg10 but no problems yet batoning, but I do not wack it brutually.

[@OneDegreeLife]

It was just a weird thing on the F1. In my experience, I prefer the VG10 of the Fallknivens to most 1095 I've used, namely the ESEE line. Water oxidizes quickly and the edges tend to be a bit brittle.

[@Macovic]

Thanks for answer

[@RSLtreecare]

Hi Nice review. I will have a look at the H1, I have not use them, Fallkniven Knifes.

[@RSLtreecare]

Nice review. I will have a look at these knife at a field show in a few weeks time.

[@OneDegreeLife]

Stewart Holmes Sweet. The F1 kind of gets all the glory in the Fallkniven family, but the S1 and H1 deserve a look. Both or more robust than the F1, though not quite as nimble. If you like a longer blade the S1 is great, for a shorter blade, esp. if you don't like a finger guard, the H1 is well worth a look. I like its handle the best. Cheers.

[@RSLtreecare]

Thanks, I will have a look at them soon. The Fenland Field Show is on at the end of Aug.

[@keithmckeith]

You may have realised this by now, but Nearly all Fallkniven vg10 micro chipping goes away after the first few initial sharpenings.

[@OneDegreeLife]

I agree, it does reduce it quite a bit, like BRKT 3V as well IME, however, VG10 still rolls and chips easier than I'd like even after sharpening. The thicker the bevel angle, obviously, the better. So sharpness was higher on the F1, but durability was higher on the H1 and S1 while still sharp. Again, just my experience. Cheers

[@jimfroeliger1335]

I also have had issues with micro chipping on my F1 and I in no way have abused it or even done any batoning with it. I use 3M Trizact performance sandpaper which as a foam backing. I use 3000 than 5000 and it burnishes the edge pretty well. I then usually use a leather strop. It still is a little annoying that it won't hold an edge very well. Maybe it's me...

[@OneDegreeLife]

Jim Froeliger Hey, brother. No, I don't think it's you. I obviously had the same issues and have seen other videos commenting on it. Great knife design and handle, just wish it was available in a steel other than VG10 and 3G. Thought about trying another one, but I still think I'm going to get more chipping than I'd like. Thought about comparing it to the SS version of the Mora Black. $120 vs $40 knife. Not sure yet. Cheers man!

[@OneDegreeLife]

Hahaha, yes, you are correct sir. For someone who made an "A" in botany, that is quite the blunder...

[@-----REDACTED-----]

Just FYI: bamboo is not a wood but a grass... ;)

[@wj_owen]

h1 - hunting skinning / f1 all purpose survival knife

[@hardtekn0]

Maybe this one is really overhardened and after all VG10 isn't nearly as tough as non stainless carbon or cpm steels for example. Non cpm stainless steels like VG10 can chip at hacking even stainless cpm like S35VN for expamle starts chipping with enough impact force. Hacking on bamboo was too much I guess. Great Video btw thx

[@scribemike]

Great vid, but I'd bet anatomy you got a bad F1. I've been using an F1 for years, and I regularly both baton and pry with it. My (and, AFAIK, legions of other F1 users') experience; a properly-made F1 edge and tip should NEVER look like that after working anything this side of concrete. :) In my opinion you should send that one back to Fallkniven for replacement; they don't seem to ship out many lemons, but it does happen, and they cover it when it does. 'Course the H1's awesome, too. :)

[@Macovic]

Ironically the H1 seems to be the better bushcrafter, and being extremely underestimated as such

[@OneDegreeLife]

It is certainly a good knife

[@Macovic]

@@OneDegreeLife Thank you for input

[@spencerjordan305]

fallkniven f1 or barkriver gunny?

[@OneDegreeLife]

Spencer Jordan Well, considering my bad luck with edge retention on the F1 and that the Gunny didn't have the same issue, I'd say the Gunny. Although the price is better on the F1 and a really do like the grip on the Handle. If I could get the F1 handle on the Gunny blade that would be a nice combo IMO. Ha, they do, however, have Bark River handles available on F1 blades. Both are adored by users throughout the world - the F1 more so because it's been around longer and is available more places. For me though, I'd take the Gunny for the blade. I also love BRKTs A2 and 3V steel. I may be retrying the F1 in the future. I'd like to see if I get the same experience twice. Cheers.

[@bobkirk7309]

There is a new a1,f1 and s1Pro versions out, now a review of one of those woiuld be nice , if you can get one, And NO, we won't hate you.

[@OneDegreeLife]

Hahahahaha, I saw that. The specs is saw seemed VERY thick and in laminated cobalt. I'm on an alert-me-when-in-stock list with a supplier. The projected cost I saw was just north of $300 so I'd have to be VERY persuaded to go that route! It would be nice to try for sure. We'll see what happens :) Cheers

[@bobkirk7309]

Seriously chap, if your interested here is a contact in the UK they ship overseas and they are a first rate company ,there is a four week wait till in stock but they won't let you down www.heinnie.com/fallkniven-pro-series-s1

[@OneDegreeLife]

I've been to the site before, looking for a more traditional scandi designs. I'll see how it goes, but will give it a look all the same. DLT will be carrying them here an I have a good history with them as well. Thanks for the info!

[@bobkirk7309]

have a look at these just as a matter of interest www.chyroseknives.org/

[@OneDegreeLife]

+bob kirk Very nice. Remind me of the Diving Sparrows in a way. You located in the UK?

[@farsan1986]

V-edge? They come convex from factory!

[@OneDegreeLife]

Farsan Microbevels. The ones I received weren’t context to the edge.

[@drcstudios]

are you sure you got a real fallkniven f1? there are copies out there that are being sold as F1's with inferior steel. there is good info about this on the net. lemme know what you discover.

[@RoninBlades]

f1 is more like axe and h1 is more like cutting blade

[@mc3runmax]

Are you sure that your copy of the F1 is real? There have been problems with chinese copies with inferior quality. Here's som info about it: www.fallkniven.com/en/counterfeit

[@OneDegreeLife]

Yes, I ordered it from an authorized US dealer. I may try another in the future, but I'm not the only one who's experienced chipping.

[@mc3runmax]

Okay, thanks for the answer.

[@Macovic]

Is it a real F1 and not a fake? Real F1 comes fully convexed.

[@OneDegreeLife]

Unless Knives Ship Free or DLT is selling knockoffs. It was vexed, but not as pronounced as the H1 because of the thinner geometry. It is vexed though.