Farmall Cub rear axle rebuild part 1

[@kennethmoles4643]

Beautiful work! Thanks for all the great tips!!!

[@shpongle2000]

This video is great. i have a 1955 lo-boy (my first tractor) that has had a squeeky rear wheel and last night I saw that the wheel was actually a little crooked. I watched this video to see the parts sequence. I Opened up the cap over the castle nut and saw that the shaft bearing had crumbled and the bearings were rolling around in the cap. Thanks to your video I know exactly how to take this apart and how to put it back together. Thank you!

[@jonbender9110]

I have just started to view your video, and the first thing I noticed was that you are working like a millwright on your cub. I say that as a compliment. Now, the shims are there to set the bearing thrust. Good video. I'm enjoying it .

[@richardowens9170]

I'm fixing to start restoring two old Farmall Super AVs. I know next to nothing about these old Farmall's so your videos are very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to make them.

[@survivingmaineona20acrefar77]

It makes it worth it knowing it is helping someone

[@desiregoodministry]

Thank you! I am working on my '56 Farmall 100. Great reference. Thank you for your details like how thick the cork gasket you made is and how to not split the gasket. I didn't have anyone to teach me those things, so details like that are great for us fatherless guys though I am grandfather age myself now. :)

[@stephanebernardes7161]

Good Work man.

[@survivingmaineona20acrefar77]

The tire spoon is soft and the gears are much harder so it has no chance of hurting them, and yes I could have pinned it through the holes but that allows it to move more when ratcheting

[@thomasrape4616]

Good informative video but why did you stick a bar in the gear teeth and take a chance of scaring the teeth when you could have just stuck a bar through the holes in the bull gear. That would have held it from turning and freed your hand to get a better hold on the bull final drive housing. Other than that it wss a good video with good info.

[@cogger]

nice Boston & Maine hammer!

[@survivingmaineona20acrefar77]

I figured you would like that

[@tonyallemand222]

Thank You

[@timallen1262]

Hello, need to change out the oil seal on the output pto shaft on my cub that looks the same as the one you’re working on. Just wondering if you have any advice or tips and tricks that would help me out. Or do you know of any videos that would help me out. Your videos on the final drive are very helpful. Thank You for any help you might give!

[@survivingmaineona20acrefar77]

Most of the pto seals that I have done I remove the quill that holds the seal and replace on the bench. But you can also put a couple of self tapping screws in the seal and pull it that way so you will not loose as much oil. Gool luck

[@timallen1262]

Hello Sir, I have a International Cub just like the one in your video. The left side axle shaft seal is leaking pretty bad so I’m wanting to change it out. My first question is, can it be done without removing the whole final drive assembly? Second question, how can I remove the outer bearing and how did you press it back? Thank You and enjoyed watching you video!

[@survivingmaineona20acrefar77]

I did it in a small press I think it could but it only takes about a hour to remove the whole thing and will be much easier when it can be rolled

[@gordbaker896]

You should have packed the tapered roller bearings first and put a bar through the holes in the bull gear, not pry on a tooth. Use an appropriate size pipe to drive on the bearing, not the nut to seat it.

[@survivingmaineona20acrefar77]

I did it the way most farmers would have done it works fine, the real problem is most people don't know when to stop if things go wrong