Excavator Repair. Let’s Fix This Sloppy Hoe! Yanmar Vio-50.

[@FarmCraft101]

Like the video? Hit that thumbs up button and let me know this is the content you want to see! Want to support the channel and help me make more videos? Join me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/FarmCraft101. Or check my amazon store, link in description. Here's a link to the tick socks video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXXRgYh6h7Z6o5Y. Cheers everybody! And have an awesome weekend!

[@TomsBackyardWorkshop]

Did you notice that spry of hydraulic fluid at the beginning?

[@Mongo63a]

We had a similar rock that kept destroying lawn mower blades in our side yard back in the 70s. Father decided one weekend to get rid of it. Turned out it was 5 ft in diameter. We reduced that sucker to rubble with a manual star drill and a sledge hammer (free kid labor). As soon as you pointed to the top of that one I knew the story.

[@zowiefenderblast4602]

Could you include a link to the tick socks video for us phone viewers?

[@FarmCraft101]

@@zowiefenderblast4602 I will put it in the description too. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXXRgYh6h7Z6o5Y

[@zowiefenderblast4602]

Thank you from a ticky midwest place

[@CuttingEdgeEngineering]

Hey mate thanks for the channel shout out we appreciate it! 😎👊 You did a good job there working with what you had. Before the lineboring setup that's how I used to do it, boring in the milling machine. The lineborer has definitely made life easier! 😂 keep up the great videos 😎👍

[@polishingturds]

hey carl 😂

[@pipereed1]

@@polishingturds 😆

[@lastplacetrophy3821]

I came to the comments to recommend the CEE channel. (*edit- Wasn't patient enough to see that it was in the video 🤦‍♂️) Give Homie some scritches for me!

[@mishary_bin_fahd_al-ghamdi]

👋 good

[@davidclarke3382]

Just a thought, could you have used taper wedges to split the top of the rock? Liked the video,keep them coming.

[@mikejd35d23]

Just as an important note, that quick attach housing is loose because the pin is supposed to be statinary. It is supposed to turn with the pin. There are no bushings in there for a reason. Your pin is supposed to have a hole drilled in it to hold a split pin. That is why one of the bosses had a hole in the casting. If you leave it like that it will wear out again, grease or not. The only part of the pin supposed to move is the bushings in the stick and the thumb.

[@avid6186]

The first side he bored on the mill had a hole which should have had a pin though it and a matching hole (missing?) in the main pin to stop it rotating. The rear pin had an "ear" and a bolt holding the pin in and stopping it turning which will be why it wasn't as worn.

[@robandnell4305]

Most excavator have a pad that is big enough to fit your heal on as well as your toe. Fun watch

[@ToddKing]

At 8:25 it looks like you can see the hole in the pin. Not sure how the hole in the casting and matching hole in the pin didn't set off a light bulb. But I've missed obvious stuff too.

[@delasantos]

Mate, absolutely amazing effort fixing the slop in that bucket. Even though we all wish we had a workshop like Cutting Edge Engineering, you did an amazing job with your mill and lathe. Seeing the bit drop in both times was chef kiss perfect, and then working with the imperfection to get the job done ... impressive! Subscribed and liked, please make another video on how you fix up the track. All the best from land down under.

[@buildingsalvage]

Was just thinking about how this is a job for CEE …if they weren’t on different continents haha

[@ToreDL87]

@@buildingsalvage Continents, and price range. I love CEE (and Homie), as do we all, as we rightly should. But to CEE, KZbin is secondary, they're a business, remember the workshop he has that we wish FarmCraft had? CEE caters to a very very boutique and heavily government subsidized market + there's a material shortage (so costs even more). The time CEE would have spent lineboring, welding, lineboring, freeze-fit, on the pin ears for this Yanmar Stick, for the money it is that you THINK they should be doing it for, he could have spent the same time and effort doing the same exact thing for 5-10 times more because that's how much their customers are willing to pay. CEE and FarmCraft could have practically been neighbors and it wouldn't have made any difference unless they were friends doing favors to one another. Not to put CEE or FarmCraft (who did an excellent repair btw) in negative light or anything of course, and if CEE wants to correct me on anything that I've said, they're free to do just that.

[@billmiller4800]

Suggestion for that rock: use your drill to drill a couple of vertical holes in it that will fill with rain water. If your area ever freezes in the winter (or with some external help, LN/propane/dry ice) the freezing will eventually break the top of the rock.

[@12345NoNamesLeft]

They have a cement mortar that does that. It expands when it cures, sold for rock breaking.

[@74KU]

@@12345NoNamesLeft Its called Expando, or that is one brand anyhow.

[@bobbygetsbanned6049]

Go Egyptian style, hammer in a wood wedge then get it wet, it will break the rock when it expands. Or use the fancy expando stuff or whatever those guys are talking about.

[@ronm3245]

The rock will gradually work its way up so generations of people will have to deal with it a few inches at a time. Or someone can deal with it all at once.

[@monad_tcp]

Explosives? No one needs to know you used them, unless you put on KZbin, then you get into trouble. But you just show rock, then no rock anymore!

[@KuroShed]

These videos just get better and better. What a boss repair! Also love the way you speed up the lengthy parts, without missing what's happening. Found some other channels which haven't realized this trick.

[@sgttombailes3380]

I love your videos Bro. I'm 70 yrs now and I grew up on a farm. We fixed our equipment in the field where ever they broke down. We had only the tools on board. You would LAUGH at some of the things we used. But we made it work !! HoooAH ?

[@waderobinson4911]

You can weld cups around your grease fittings that are exposed to prevent them from breaking off and getting damaged just a tip.

[@jenniferwhite6089]

does not matter if your country sink then grease fitting you looking at build up with dirt in the holes they are not a right or wrong way to do it how any time i had to change out the grease fitting when the damaged by Debra too

[@BS.-.-]

I have welded a large nut over a exposed grease fitting. It does fill up with dirt/wood but it's never broken.

[@munroboice1542]

use a nut

[@mikeprimm4077]

​@@jenniferwhite6089 huh?

[@mikeprimm4077]

That's actually a good idea, I did that on my mini, the grease fittings on the end of the stick by the dog bone kept breaking off. Haven't had to replace one since

[@diceblue6817]

EVERYBODY should be heading to your patreon NOW because you deserve $20 for this level of informational content! so good! DAMN this is an AWESOME video! I was 9 minutes in and I checked the runtime and was so glad to see you would be including all the details. SO MUCH TO LEARN from this, how you handle the faces, how you thought ahead for grease, making second hole smaller to allow for migration of hole - really man I cannot overstate how awesome, enjoyable and eye-opening this video is, your channel was always a fav but these are legendary level videos of late, I can tell you've really done something amazing.

[@heklin]

nice work, just for future reference, you can use your lathe as an impromptu line bore, as long as your bed travel is at least double the width of the part, you need to make a solid bar that you can run between centers with cutters added through the bar in 1 or more locations. takes a bit to set up but once used to it you will get perfect bore alignment every time.

[@1978grizz]

Keith Fenner has a few videos on this

[@erik_dk842]

Line boring in a centre lathe farmyard style: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rInWXpKlpsmKjas

[@PlatypusVomit]

Thanks man, I just might use that tip.

[@marvkaye]

another option for the milling solution... bore & bush one side complete then attach that side to the mil table. Insert a straight, close-fit rod in that completed bushing that extends up through the now upper socket and indicate the rod to locate its bore center.

[@bow-tiedengineer4453]

@@marvkaye I had a similar thought, though your idea is probably a bit easier.

[@dekesone1]

Can't believe I just sat through 45 minutes of someone repairing a sloppy bushing on an excavator. But I did. And I enjoyed it. Cool to see insight into DIY repairs needed on a family farm. Add this to Abom and OldTony as one of my new favorites.

[@Glidercat]

It's not much, but I did manage to change the water filter in my refrigerator this week. I'm slowly working my way up to projects like yours! 😸😸😸

[@artstudio9673]

Yep....I use to think I was a great DIY guy until you see stuff like this.

[@stanleykeith6969]

Where I worked we had a Very Large Modern Machine shop. We had two machines called "May-zacks" that where computer programed and could make anything. I was amazing to see it do what ever you put in the program. We had the regular lathes, drill press and a 12ton overhead crane to load the lathe pc. of steel on to the tables or lathes. You are Amazing yourself John.

[@weekendstuff]

For the rock: Drill some vertical holes from the top. Either stuff them with real dry wood and wet it afterwards, or fill in some rock breaker expanding stuff. Enjoyed as always. Weekend Stuff

[@wolf359loki]

A couple of shotgun shells as TNT would do the trick also.

[@footplate0]

a few wedges in each of the holes struck in a line would split the beast with out much effort. Its the way old quarry men used to hue rock

[@melmckenzie1176]

Look up feather and wedge. That and your hammer drill makes easy work of breaking rock. Dan Hurd on KZbin has some videos on their use

[@artstudio9673]

@@footplate0 right feather and wedges.

[@williamlorenzen9113]

Look into Dexpan, available from Walmart, Grainger, others.

[@Ariokanikan]

That was an incredible amount of skill and effort that went into fixing the bucket slop. I was not expecting such an in depth repair. I would've had to just try to find a new part or go to a great machine shop.

[@TokyoCraftsman]

In Japan (I’ve lived here 32 years) the tapered pipe threads are all inch. The story I’ve heard is that after the war, a lot of old tooling was shipped to Japan from the US to help rebuild the country. Love the videos. Cheers from Tokyo!

[@robrob5419]

You're absolutely right. Not only in Japan but also in Europe, in countries that never converted from imperial for the simple reason that they have always been metric, tapered thread pipe is all imperial.

[@albert1991]

In my opinion, the quick coupler hole was worn becouse an incorrect fitting. The pin should stay stationary with the coupler, you can see that from the fact that the coupler had holes for insert a bolt to stop the rotation of the pin. When they installed the finger has removed that feature and now the pin stay stationary with the stick arm and wear the bore. Recentrly, Dirt perfect has installed a new thumb to his new hyundai and he welded a piece to the coupler and the pin has ear to engage in it to avoid that problem. Your video are ansome, truly they are! Better and better!

[@mcmicky2]

I've been watching you're videos for a while now and I know you had some difficulties getting traction a while back. I have to say the sheer quality of your videos is really excellent! I hope your channel is getting the numbers it deserves.

[@agurdel]

Well, one track still needs repair so he still has traction issues.

[@irishmanshamrock8563]

An old timer once told me the best way to crack/break a rock was by building a fire around the rock and once the rock is hot from the fire to pour water on it. The difference in temperature cracks the rock open. Another enjoyable video, Thanks for sharing.

[@johnjacobjinglehimerschmid3555]

Gotta say. It is inspiring to watch you work. People who work with their hands and minds are mesmerizing.

[@slipsonic809]

You need to get yourself a set of feather and wedges. You just drill a line of holes a few inches apart, insert the wedges, then hit them in sequence. The rock will crack off pretty much in line with your holes. You could have dug a foot or so down and popped the top right off that rock.

[@silicon.alchemist]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5bZiqtqbq5nba8&ab_channel=DanHurd

[@stephenvale2624]

This "feathering" process is thousands of years old and is astonishingly effective on rocks and even concrete without steel reinforcement. I had to do this once where the extra concrete not used in my house foundation was dumped by the contractor. A foot thick and 3 feet long chunk in a very unfortunate location that just had to go.

[@atomwhys3028]

Love the content. I’m a mechanic on forklifts and man lifts etc. I’ve machined bushings like in this video Welded up buckets, both dirt and ice types. Learned a few little time savers. Your living my dream. God bless and thanks!

[@akquicksilver]

Love your videos man! I'm a retired millwright and I really enjoy repairing stuff, better than making new stuff. Very satisfying to save stuff from going to the dump, besides the ridiculous prices on new stuff.

[@jimmeroniuk8266]

Same boat as JB just not a retired millwright. But still employed Millwright

[@slypig24]

Once you bore your first hole on mill. Make a light fitting pin on lathe, with a wide thick flange to clamp to your mill.(maybe drill holes in flange for cap screws into tee slots) Dial indicator pin, to get it inline with mill spindle/quill. Note table position exactly. Move table to side, and mount bored hole over clamped pin and clamp down. Return table to exact same position, and bores will be in line. You have a great channel. Cheers

[@russellwall1964]

Really well done repair! I watch Cutting Edge Engineering as well and most of us don’t have the tools at our disposal that Kurtis does as part of his business. I love how you adapt and overcome each obstacle and understand when good enough is what’s needed. I’ve really come to appreciate watching your channel and have applied some of your lessons learned to my shop and property. Thanks so much for taking the time to share!!

[@dlaitch]

You displayed serious machining skills in this video as well as welding . I worked in a machine shop with an experienced machinist & master welder but only doing hydraulic jack repairs. You can hold your own with the best in both trades. 👍👍👍

[@timvolkmer1121]

i would have the removed the side blades completely cause when you want to dig a nice ditch for cables or piping they are very anoying. But as always, nice vid and greetings from a German operator! Edit: plz dont slam stuff with the excavator or you will need new bushings and a plan to fix cracks very soon.

[@John-yo7kh]

he should also avoid moving things sideways with a high load aswell, the stick and bom bushings does not like that and probably is what most of the other wobble is coming from.

[@timvolkmer1121]

@@John-yo7kh nah using the machine for that is fine. Holding the bucket flat and swinging from left to right to grade is way worse, as well as slamming or pressing the side of the bucket into something

[@John-yo7kh]

@@timvolkmer1121 ain't that included in what i just wrote, moving things sideways with a high load... grading or moving stuff sideways with a low load is usually fine but should be avoided because they are not built for it.. Greetings from a swedish ew180c operator with a rototilt.

[@jessiemae6873]

You were on the right track drilling holes in your rock. You just needed some feathers and wedges to split the rock. They work great and much safer than a chisel and sledgehammer. Great video, I keep learning things from you.

[@morganblu]

Curtis is an amazing machinist!

[@SPUDHOME]

My father, many,many, years ago taught me. When you need to repair it, if it’s dirty wash it first. If it’s greasy wash it twice first. It makes the job much easier and enjoyable.

[@miningsimple1924]

I love watching cutting edge engineering as well. Curtis is great. ive been enjoying watching you fix up your excavator keep up the awesome videos

[@glm777]

I love your "You gotta do it till you do it so ya better get to it" attitude - only way to get it done most of the time. Well done!!!

[@daverose4789]

great work done there and a fantastic improvement in the bucket. One method you could have used to get the alignment of the second hole is to use a dti to 'clock' the already machined lower hole. You'd need to mount a long shaft say 3/4" diameter in the mill spindle and attach a dti to the bottom end of it just above the lower hole. Adjust the table position to zero the dti and the mill spindle is exactly on the lower hole. Refit the boring head in the spindle again and the second hole will be bang on center to the first. Keep up the good work . Looking forward to the next installment.

[@terencem9962]

That's exactly what i was thinking about in me head! KZbin is so great to see other machinists work and then to see comments from machinists about said work. Much can be learned :)

[@DamLins45594]

I was thinking the same thing as I watched this. Not sure if he has a DRO on his mill, which may have helped him get close enough to use the DTI to zero in on the bottom hole, assuring alignment of the yet to be bored upper one.

[@larryrivers2752]

Future reference, for above ground rock or rock ledge, use stone cutting wheel and make a few slices across the top of the stone and break out with sledgehammer and chisel. Remove to your hearts desire. I have rock ledge on my property and I put painted rebar markers at their locations for when I bushog. Good video.

[@rickdiego5]

I thought the .002 interference fit was too much but was impressed with how you did it. After you bored the first hole I would have made a fixture with just a round plug screwed it down through the center of it to the mill bed and then indicated my spindle to it. Then used that to locate the center for the other bushing hole. Also I would not have drilled the zerk fitting holes where you did because of weaking that part. I would have drilled the pin and put the zerk fitting in the end and had a hole come out into the middle of each bushing for grease.

[@CGT80]

I thought about an eccentric bushing for one side, that he could have bored on the mill with the needed offset.

[@stevebowman421]

Had to do track repairs on a Terex skid steer, bought a bench press, as well as pullers and presses, best spent money. Have a 5.5 ton kobelco so will be watching more of your videos.

[@davethekiwibloke]

I've got a Yanmar B27...3 ton so a bit smaller than yours, but have had to deal with similar repair challenges. The worst was when one of the idlers collapsed so that was a big learning curve...actually, I think it's now more repair than original. So I really love these digger videos as I'm picking up quite a few valuable points for upcoming repairs and maintenance. Thank you!

[@davidmiller2719]

The last mini excavator that I rented had a pivot point for foot operation. You may be able to simulate this by adding a leverage point on the bottom of the foot placement like the top one. This would possibly allow your heel to naturally pull back without hooking your toes.

[@holzmann8443]

Your vids are getting fantastic. It's great to watch your repair triumphs in a world prone to quick disposal and replacement. Keep up the fine work!

[@FloydVanGough]

DOOOoood, that was phukin kewl! I've been a trimmer (auto upholstery/Interiors/convertible tops) for over 40 years and have always loved to hear that. good job! thanks

[@chrissmith7655]

Hi, to get out the two smaller pins, remove snap rings and set screws, pump grease into Zerk ,grease comes out of the small hole at the bottom of the pin through small hole pushing out the pin.

[@terryayers7549]

Im an 81 yr old x machinist.. seeing all your equipment and machinery sure makes me wish I cld go back and do it agn..

[@XD3blaze]

Excavator guy here Your track controls should have a bottom foot piece that your heel can push down on to track backwards hooking the top with your foot is definitely not the way to go. My CAT has fixed pedals and my bobcat has folding ones, so check if there's mounting holes to fabricate a heel pedal. If not, your best bet is to create one

[@philedwards2153]

Agggghhhh just track one way.😁

[@slevair47]

After you get set up for boring the second hole with the pin indicated, you can run a small indicator on a shaft in the chuck down through the top hole and indicate the bottom hole. Then adjust X and Y with the table so you are on center. Good luck and keep at it.

[@erichenao6537]

Dynamite to the rock would have been great! Maybe not to the level of Andrew Camatera, but still... Amazing work on the bucket. I am totally here for that type of content. You are seriously a man of MANY skills.

[@Francois_Dupont]

here in argentina it is 2$ per dynamite stick. 😆

[@d.jensen5153]

A quarter of a century ago I would blast rocks like that as a hobby. Sadly, things have changed.

[@donaldstevenson2475]

Absolutely love watching any one use a lathe and milling machine of any kind ,it's such precise work when done too the epitome of it.

[@nathancook5354]

Any excavator I've run that was new enough for foot pedals has them come far enough back so you can step down on them to reverse. I'd guess that the actual pedals are missing and what you have there is just the bracket that the rubber or plastic was supposed to attach to. Still better than my old CAT E70 that you just have to angle your foot against the lever though. Well done on the bushings there, that would have been an expensive replacement or even repair from a machine shop.

[@kd2eat]

I was thinking something similar. Does something fit over those foot petals that allows you to place your entire foot down and tilt forward and back.

[@Sugarkryptonite]

I also have a Yanmar, albeit smaller, a Vio17, and it is the same thing. The pedals are absolutely garbage and the angles are not ergonomic at all. I even had to cut and modify the armrests because they were the same way. I've seen a bunch of them and they're all the same. Don't think anything is missing here.

[@nathancook5354]

@@Sugarkryptonite Crazy. I always hear about how good Yanmars are but I guess it's mostly the newer ones. Maybe he can make a good video about jerry rigging some pedals onto it lol

[@Sugarkryptonite]

@@nathancook5354 No, they are good machines, even back to the older ones like Andrew Camarata has which is quite a bit older than this one. Ergonomics were their weak point.

[@drekan2]

Kurtis is definitely proud of you. Absolutely great job fixing and improving the original design.

[@johnmattu7262]

Great fix on the bucket, you have excellent machining skills. The new Yanmar excavators have a flip down pedals on the rear of the pedal, take a look at one at the dealership next time you're there and I'm sure making a set will be a walk in the park after fixing the bucket pins. Next time you need to bust a rock try Dexpan.👍 Great content!

[@firstmkb]

I can’t match your knowledge or experience but I can offer a suggestion. If you’re having trouble with a dirty mechanism, clean it. The dirt can be hiding important details, and the focus of cleaning helps you understand the design of the part better. You know this instinctively, demonstrated by fixing the second hydraulic leak on your Shoney’s Big Boy excavator, but it’s easy to get trapped in a mindset of how you think something should work - rather than solving how it does work. Good videos, thanks!

[@1978grizz]

When removing those two small pins for the small quick release cylinder, instead of hammering away at it use long bolt like you did, but let it do the work for you by putting a socket that's bigger than the hole you're pulling from and a nut to back the socket. Hold the bold and tighten the nut. It'll pull the pin right out regardless if it's held by setscrews.

[@paulbetteridge9455]

just what I was going to add

[@godbeesmith]

I don’t have any of the ability, equipment and tools that you and others like you but I know exactly what y’all are doing and I just thoroughly love to watch. Just fascinating!

[@wrwr9596]

When you were digging out the rock when you pick the bucket up in the air and smash down on it there is a knuckle between the boom and the cab is only cast steel so it will break under Big sudden impact just pointing it out and on the petals of the machine for going backwards just look up another brand of excavator and you’ll see what they have👍

[@neon-john]

I've very much enjoyed your channel since I discovered it a few months ago. Here are a couple of tips that might make your life easier Welding: Though I'm a trained welder, I've always had a problem of staying oriented after dropping the hood before striking the arc. I tried the electronic hood but the sudden darkness also disoriented. I solved the problem by simply illuminating the work bright enough that I could see it through the filter. I used to use a 1500 watt metal-halide lamp in a parabolic reflector on a stand I made. I have replaced it with a 1500 MH-equivalent LED COB light. It draws 120 actual watts but it produces at least as much and probably more light but without the heat of the MH lamp. Rock Breaking. In the 80s I had a home with a dump truck sized boulder touching the house right where I wanted to build another garage stall. I consulted the local farmer's co-op and they sold me a product named Cold Dynamite. It relies on the large expansion of the hydration of calcium oxide and the reaction with rust and aluminum oxide. I just checked. Apparently this product no longer exists. This is its successor: www.dexpan.com/pages/how-to-use-dexpan-break-concrete-rocks-easily When I broke up that boulder, I drilled the rock with 1.5" holes as recommended by the instructions, mixed up the product with water and poured the slurry into the holes. 24 hours later, the boulder was rubble. It's amazing to see a hard rock slowly develop cracks and fall apart. They apparently sell this stuff at Home Depot.

[@kman808alohamovement3]

Thank you for content brother. I love seeing how you solve problems and making it work out. Your rock problem : There’s this powder and water mixture called Dexpan. You drill holes in the rock problem add the powder and water mixture in the holes The mixture expands and cracks the rock making it easier to break up. By by rock. Hope that helps. Thanks again

[@schmatzek1]

Hi, i am from Germany. Nice Work. I have a Yanmar B37V the complete diesel tank was rusty inside. all filters were always clogged. Last week I cut out the tank and I built a new tank out of 1.4571 stainless steel in the same size like the Original. it was a lot of work but it was worth it. I keep my fingers crossed for you in the future. P.S. Kurtis from CEE is Great! 👌

[@davidrice4172]

You are amazing. A jack of all trades. Love watching you work.

[@hotflashfoto]

I know this is too late for this repair, but I thought of a way to get that pin centered in the oblong holes. 1. Repair one side with a new bushing, then insert the pin so it sticks out of the second side just a little. 2. Drop the new bushing onto the pin, then mark where it goes. 3. Machine the oblong second hole so you can insert the bushing. It should be lined up quite nicely, even if it's off a tad. But it should be pretty close to dead on. I like your videos because they show me things that interest me, and which I have never or hardly ever attempted. Thank you for sharing! After having watched a number of your videos, I'm subbing on this one.

[@JohnDoe-zr6bk]

I knew the recommended channel "cutting edge" before watching your videos... But it's impressive, what you have done with your Limited machinery...

[@TravisMontesano]

I like this style of content. You are a man of many talents, thank you for sharing your skills with us. I have been watching cutting edge machine for a couple years now and that guy has some amazing equipment to work with. I hope you get that machine all sorted out its japanese so it should last a lifetime. Have a good weekend!

[@stephensboys6711]

I read in an old book that farmers used to build a fire on and around those big rocks and then quench it with water and it would crack the rock. My friend and I tried it on a rock just like that and it worked perfectly. It took a couple cycles because only the top 3 or 4 inches broke off at a time.

[@eformance]

Most mini excavators have a galley in the pin and you grease the whole shebang with the hole in the pin, so they didn't install grease zerks in the moving part. Also, before you welded it up, there were holes for a retaining pin through the bore on the outside, these are to hold the pin in place so the pin rotates in the stick, not the bucket end. Your setup was probably altered when they put the thumb on there and the pin is no longer fixed to the bucket end, so it wore. That's why there were no bushings in the bucket end to begin with, it was designed to be static with relation to the pin.

[@stephenlehr6020]

That was exactly what I was thinking, the rear pin of the coupler as a locking bolt that keeps the pin from rotating in the coupler, so all the rotation is between the pin and rear linkage. The original pin for that coupler was likely similar so no rotation happened between the coupler and pin (no need for grease or zerks then), just the end of the stick and pin. The longer pin for the thumb changed that and the coupler was not designed with replaceable bushings like in the end of the stick, so the cast coupler wore easily against the hardened pin. Hopefully the "new" bushings in the coupler will "wear" better with the grease zerks added. Probably would have been a good idea to machine a shallow grove inside those "bushings" in the coupler that aligned with the new grease zerks to make sure grease gets ALL the way around the pin (not just mostly on one side....) That is the most wearing joint on the whole machine.... Just keep that pin REALLY well greased!! All that said, great job on the repair!! On the foot pedals, just weld some extensions on the rear portion of those pedals that are horizontal (parallel to the floor), so that the heel of your foot can rest on them and push down for reverse. On many machines they are hinged so you can flip them up to lay on the portion of the pedal you already have, so they don't take up extra floor space. But if you are going to use them, they do really need to be flipped up "out-of-the-way"....

[@ericl2152]

On the Fourth of July, drill a 3/4 inch hole in the top of that rock as deep as you can. Fill it with black powder, put a long fuse in it, pile on a couple of large sand bags and light it at dusk. That rock will never be a problem for you again. Less than an hour work. Nice work with the sleeves on the bucket, I am impressed.

[@DMHRC]

You're doing great with the old Yanmar. One of my best homemade tools is a pair of vice grips with a nut welded on top. I thread a small slide hammer into the nut and pop loose anything I can get the grips on. Works great on oddball projects like this and very simple. I even use it for stubborn cotter pins. Might be something you can use.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Gorgeous aerial view of that land at the end

[@tutekohe1361]

Larger Excavators have full sized foot ‘plates’ on the travel pedals that makes it comfortable to use forwards or backwards. I can see the video does not show just how much work there was in doing that ‘line-bore’ job, but it’s done now and you must be happy with the results. Great video.

[@CGT80]

The Vio 35, a little smaller than this machine, also has plates that extend backward and up a bit so you can move the tracks backward. On all the machines, up to the 349 cat, my brother and I walk them backwards if we have any distance to go. It is more comfortable to pull the handles or push my feet straight down instead of away from me.

[@megape95]

@@CGT80 well every excavator operator should know your undercarriage is wearing 3x more when travelling backwards. That is because of the top side of the tracks are being put to tention and bushes are turning under tention inside of the sprocket tooth. That is not happening when travelling forward. I think with a rubber track machine it does not make a difference, but with steels it sure does.

[@CGT80]

@@megape95 I will have to ask my brother if he has heard of that, since he is the well seasoned operator. Our company owns the mini ex but sold off their 320 and we rent the others as needed. The mini is what really gets walked a lot while the others don't usually have to go more than a few minutes across a work area. Thanks for the tip!

[@alwayssomething3259]

May have been mentioned before but a great way to freeze down a bearing is to get a feed bucket fill it with isopropyl alcohol and fill that with dry ice. It doesn’t get as cold as liquid nitrogen but gets the job done.

[@Mhakeman]

Totally getting better and better with all the videos- really digging this channel :) keep up the great work, one of my favorite channels!

[@MrYukon2010]

Vice grips: best invention since sliced bread! The guy (or girl) who invented these should be rewarded with a Nobel price. Also in a weird, and maybe sadistic way, I like to see you struggle (and not give up) to get a job done.

[@mrxmry3264]

8:43 my thoughts exactly. yeah, i know what a line borer is. cutting edge engineering in australia uses one. 24:14 yep, that's the one i was talking about! 37:05 you're doing it wrong. in my job training i was told to hold the bolt and turn the nut. 40:52 more challenging than you thought? that rock puts up quite a fight. 42:18 man, that thing is STUBBORN. it just REFUSES to give up. if that rock is still a problem next winter, drill some holes into the top, fill them with water and let it freeze. no rock can withstand that kind of stress. repeat as necessary.

[@BCole-bj4lv]

There's someone in my town with same problem and people have done exactly what you did to try and fix it. It is very, very easy to fix this issue. We seem to have forgotten that making gravel was once a job. You take a 6# sledge hammer and simply start pounding the top of the rock. Pound away and slowly the rock will disintegrate from the pounding. In 30 minutes you will remove the top 6 inches of the rock. Easy breezy. I've done this to rocks in my yard that were sticking up and I've pounded dozens of big 150# rocks into little bits. Wear safety glasses and pants as stuff flies. There is an old painting called "The stone breakers" or something like that, done by a French artist showing this very thing.

[@Locane256]

Blow the rock up!!!! I vote explosives and Overwhelming Force!

[@FarmCraft101]

Funny you say that. I've tried blowing up rocks with black powder before without success. I can't get hold of anything better. Wish I had a friend who was a demolition expert!

[@mpericic]

@@FarmCraft101 Have you tried using demolition grout?

[@FishFind3000]

@@FarmCraft101 anfo is easy to make but to set it off is the harder part.

[@thomasthecrunkengine3512]

@@FarmCraft101 have you tried tannerite?

[@jpusmc56]

Don't they sell half and quarter sticks of dynamite or it's equivalent to you farmers still or is that not a thing anymore?

[@RayScrafield]

You are a true craftsman. I watch you work and I am very impressed with your skills and knowledge. Love your videos.

[@gasgasgas]

It looks like the easiest way to pull those pins out would be pumping grease after removing the snap ring.

[@tutekohe1361]

Good thinking! 👍

[@crashland5711]

After loosening the set screws that he found.

[@gorak9000]

Pretty sure that's why they're NPT thread - to thread in grease nipples. Pump grease in, grease pushes the pins out from the back.

[@jjock3239]

Peanut butter or coconut oil, which is solid when cool, both make less messy and less expensive substitutes for grease to do the pushing. I even used bread, made into a mush, for smaller jobs.

[@gorak9000]

@@jjock3239 Do you fill a grease gun with peanut butter or coconut oil? It takes quite a bit of pressure to get those pins out (though maybe less if you remove the set screws!) - I don't see how else you'd get enough pressure on it to actually make it work? I've seen the bread trick before - you need to use some kind of a punch to force the bread in, and I'd think you'd damage the threads on the pins doing it that way in this case.

[@allensnook7760]

Feel your pain on that big rock brother,i worked and retired from penndott rest area on our outramp was this 3ft.rock jutting out on hillside you could mower deck the hillside but had to use weedwacker that spot,i convinced my coworker we could hand dig,crowbar,kubota that sob well after two weeks we only had a three foot trench around it but we could budge it with digging bars that sob was as big a vw-bug we convinced ourselves we couldnt get bigwigs on board so we rocked it around till we got it turned to flatter side facing up.reburied it and finished mowing that season over it,but next yr that sucker grew an inch i swear ground heaved or something.you could still manuver around but never safely straight over again.the stone gods won that yr and i retired shortly after then not my problem now.sometimes defeat just doesnt sit well.!!enjoy love ur stuff!!snooky pa.😂😂😂😂

[@jonathangorrell9674]

Just one idea, you can get dry ice to cool your parts down before interference fitting. It is not as good at LN2 (-302F) but at -100F it is another 100 degrees F lower than your freezer and you can get dry ice at some grocery store and welding supply shops. Great video.

[@FishFind3000]

6:15 It more likely could be a BSPT 1/8” -27 thread. That’s what my Kawasaki small engine seems to be. NPT and BSTP are nearly identical with small differences. But they might have used a standard 1/8” not for easy replacements since the grease fittings might get damaged.

[@TheHomePros6221]

Yes it is British standard pipe thread

[@jamesmtrainor8294]

Nice repair job. I enjoyed watching you and. appreciate your video. I am a machinist and you did a great job machining the bushings.. your lucky to have a. well equipped shop. I watched your first video when you first brought your machine home. you did all the things i would do after purchasing an old unit, clean repair and do maintenance. keep the videos coming. I like how you work.

[@myworkshop800]

That’s a good repair job I’ve enjoyed watching you fix up the Yanmar. The reason the quick hitch had worn so much is that the pin should only rotate inside the end of the dipper. The dipper has replaceable bronze bushings and usually grease fittings or a pin with a grease fitting. The problem has come from how the thumb has been fitted, the piece for the small retaining pin has been cut off to make the quick hitch narrower.

[@jereyesjr]

First of all, Your My Hero! Such skill and knowledge was used to repair the bucket assembly. Second, I'm surprised you did not just jack hammer the top of the stone instead. Great video in all!!!

[@FarmCraft101]

If only I had a jack hammer!

[@timeneilander6338]

Hay man, liked your video. Like to tell you what I did when I had to solve a simular problem and not having a line boring device. I took a boring bar from my lathe, long enough to go through both holes and turned the end smaller, to fit in the boring device of the mill. You have to be careful not to cut too much in one pass. But it worked for me.

[@miloradpudja1501]

Hey John, grate video as usual. I have read some comments, not all. Not to leave you "hanging'" Here is suggestion on your track pedals. On both of my JCBs, I have folding pedals. bottom extensions are hinged with limiters on low position. then you push down on them with your hills How ever, if you are not tracking, not to take too much of your floor room, you can fold them up flat with upper portion of pedals. Grate option. I have no doubt you can make those on your own, if struggle is grate. I sure love using mine.

[@chrisgaffney7265]

That bushing fitting in was SWEET.. awesome job

[@donaldgibson3121]

We have chiggers in the tall grass of our Texas cattle pastures. They are hell on a guy working on fence lines. We use an old sock filled with powdered sulphur ( powdered sulphur is available on the internet) and dust of feet/ankles/leg before we put on our work socks. We then put on the work socks and dust the outside of the work sock and the lower leg of our jeans. We enjoy your videos and wish we had all the tools and equipment you have in your shop and your smarts on how to use them.

[@outdoorswithrd8600]

Really like watching these videos when the guys are really skilled at what they do. I've been a Tool & Die-maker and worked in the Military and aircraft missile industry for 40+ years. Had you done the one side complete then used a tight fitting pin and a V block you could have lined up the other side right on the money. But what you did will hold for anything you will put the machine through and last for years. I'm looking at buying a mini Ex for my small property. Learned a lot about what to look at from your video, Thanks. I also subscribed looking for more to view.

[@paulj5813]

Look up breaking rocks with feathers and wedges. It's old tech but for the occasion need, it works and it is alot lower cost than a hydraulic breaker. You can order them from Amazon. I would recommend a set of ten in the 5/8" size. My property is largely rock with a little top soil or so it seems. I am enjoying your videos, keep it up.

[@avid6186]

Awesome job, that will keep it going a lot longer. Couple of minor points. No grease fitting required as the pin isn't supposed to move in the quick hitch. The first side you bored has a hole, looks like about 8mm through it, there should have been a matching hole in the main pin and a bolt through it to stop it turning. Of course grease will do the job as well. The second point is just a suggestion or a "I would have done it this way". When you discovered the 2 holes weren't quite lined up polishing a little out of the appropriate sides of the tightest bush with a die grinder or even a drill and flap wheel would allow the tin to tilt the fraction needed to line up. A very small adjustment to the hole allows the end of the pin to move much more. Possible to end up with a tighter fit that way? There are many ways of skinning cats, that's just what I would probably do. Thank you for posting, I was looking for inspiration, I need to do the bushes in the end of the dipper arm on my one and a new pin of course. Hopefully it should be less involved than yours ended up 😀 Hope it's going well for you.

[@joelcurcio1403]

Just so you know the reason those holes egged out is because the thumb is after market and was not installed quite correctly. From the factory the pin was designed to be fixed to the coupler and rotate in the stick. When the thumb was installed the pin now rotates in the coupler and stick and is fixed to the thumb. There are a couple ways to fix that. Ideally the thumb should have grease zercs and bushings and the pin should have stayed fixed to the coupler. Love your videos by the way.

[@jeffreyclark4298]

Amazing video, you got me with the math to heat/freeze and install the bushing. You for sure have the tools to fix just about anything that breaks down on a farm, which is just about everything on mine. I wish you lived close my farm, I would pay you to fix my sloppy excavator bucket. Great job and very interesting video!

[@HomesteadJay]

The attention to detail is incredible!

[@OldSneelock]

Great job on the pins and bushings. I am always impressed by you using what you had and making it work. A shop made line borer can be made from a couple flange bearings and 8 bolts to weld onto the item to be bored. Very similar to what Kurtis of CEC uses. Drill a piece of round bar, smaller than the hole to be bored, to hold the cutter and cross drill for a set screw. Slip the bar through the holes to be bored and shim the bar until the bar is centered in the existing hole where you want it. Using bearings the size of the round bar with a nice slip fit in the bearings insert the bolts in the bearing flange and snug up the bolts with double nuts through the flange so the heads are flush against the part to be bored. Weld the heads of the bolts to the part to be bored. Now the bearings will guide the cutter mounted in the bar. You can use whatever you have to drive the cutter. A drill motor, mounted motor, belt, and pulley, even a hand crank if you are really limited. Light cuts are best unless you want to rig up a way to feed the bar in at a controlled rate. That is essentially a home shop version of Kurtis of CEC's boring machine. When I was 20 the engineers at the Midwest Foundry rigged up a similar system to bore out the main bearings on the muller. Three guys sat in the muller, each shift, for three days, holding onto an angle iron handle bar while we bored out the 8" diameter bushing. In later years I realized I could have welded a couple posts onto the top of the plate and let the cutter just guide itself. It was a miserable, hot, dirty job, but it worked. It was much easier than tearing out the muller and sending it out for repair. Small tip for welding in things like the gussets for the thumb. Bevel the gusset and thumb frame to 37 degrees on the inside leaving about 1/8" on the outside edge to register the gusset in place. Tack weld both sides. Weld the inside with stringer beads until the bevel is completely filled. Grind the outside until the bottom of the weld bead in the bevel is exposed. Weld up the outside with stringer beads until filled. That gives you 100% penetration and helps prevent the joint from flexing On the rock try feathers and wedges to split off the top of the rock. The method is used in quarries to cut huge blocks from bedrock. It's tedious to drill the holes but the wedges work great. I had a company remove reinforced concrete air compressor stands at UTC. The guy wanted to try a couple different things and I told him to just make sure they were gone and no damage occurred to the building. They drilled 1" holes in the top about 6 inches apart and the thickness of the stand on both of them. One stand they filled the holes with expanding concrete. On the other they filled the holes with water and inserted a tube with a threaded cap on the end into the hole. They removed the cap and inserted a 12 gauge blank shot gun shell into the tube and screwed the cap back on. The cap had a firing mechanism in it. They fired the shell and the concrete cracked between the tube and the four holes around it. It took about 20 shots to break up the stand. The expanding concrete cured and pulverized the other stand overnight. The shotgun shells were interesting and rather fun to watch. The concrete was quiet, easy to do, and cheaper.

[@Beaches_south_of_L.A.]

If you only knew how many times I was able to say, "That's what she said." during this video. Haha! Hey great video you are a great machinist. Here's a little tip for you next time you are trying to fit a sleeve into a collar. Putting the sleeve into the freezer that was fine, that's what you should do. However when heating the collar, go to the area on the edge where the collar is thinnest and just heat the metal there. Maybe like an inch wide section with a finer Torch flame. It will actually open the hole more as it is only expanding the metal at that section which pushes outward, almost like putting a hydraulic jack in the opening of a "C". When you heat all the metal all the way around it expands inward also.

[@JFirn86Q]

Props to the machinist ingenuity using the equipment you have!

[@luisvillalobos6517]

You are definitely one of my favorite new channels, thank you. So many satisfying moments in this video and all the ones I've seen so far. May you algorithm be blessed.

[@BW-xz6ol]

Temperature difference for fitting was amazing. Very cool stuff.

[@daiseaward4686]

Hey fella…great bit of work. Will offfer an idea for centralising the second hole with the first. Dummy shaft with centre hole (maybe use the new bucket pin) put through first hole after you have bored and drifted the bush in..Use centre hole to centralise the boring tool exactly in line X+Yaxis. Great video thouroghly enjoying it… 🎉

[@famousamoso7]

Great video, and first thing I thought of when you mentioned what you needed done was CEEs channel. I love watching Kurtis work his magic.

[@ohhpaul7364]

Keith Fenner has 2-3 videos of making a set up to line bore on the lathe. They are well worth the watch.

[@dwilley3754]

Should have watched the video to the end before commenting. My komatsu track foot pedals have a part the folds back to make the pedal twice as big and give you more leverage. Then you can fold it up so you don’t trip on it getting out of the cab. You might be able to make something to replicate this. Once again great videos keep them coming.

[@jackclark1994]

Glad to see Someone else that watches Kurtis! By far my favorite machinist.