Rebuilding Excavator Track Adjusters and Replacing a Track. Yanmar VIO-50.

[@FarmCraft101]

Get Surfshark VPN at surfshark.deals/FARMCRAFT - enter promo code FARMCRAFT for 83% off and 3 extra months for free! Really glad to have my excavator back in action, and it will hopefully be a good reliable machine for a long time from here on out. Have an awesome weekend everybody, and thanks for your support!

[@TomsBackyardWorkshop]

I have surfshark. it sucks beyond the definition of sucks more than a black hole. I have to turn it off to do my banking and shopping and the ad blocker does nothing.

[@Mad.Man.Marine]

Was it doing the crab walk before you did the rotator manifold? I hope it was honestly (well I hope it just fixes itself and you don’t have to do anything lol) Cause it’s way easier to rebuild a drive motor then it is to pull that dam rotator manifold back out.

[@MrPGT]

For putting the tracks on, especially with no help, I am pretty sure I have seen people using ratchet straps and come-alongs to finagle them into place.

[@blaircox1589]

I wish the VPN trick would actually work. I've tried a few of the top VPNs and success is limited. Seems that at least for me in my area, Netflix and Prime able to determine I'm still in Canada. Oh well, means watching more of your content!

[@ozarkarky]

I think your half inch is supposed to be measured on the top, not the bottom.

[@WatchWesWork]

Normally the backup ring goes on the outside, opposite of the pressure. The purpose is to cushion things and keep the o-ring from squeezing out the tiny gap between the gland and piston.

[@MRrwmac]

Wes, Can you help him with info about the different drive track speeds?

[@kevinwalker4623]

High compliments seeing you here!

[@WatchWesWork]

@@MRrwmac Sorry, the drives are out of my wheelhouse.

[@FarmCraft101]

@Watch Wes Work - Thanks. Makes sense now that it’s explained. I’m pretty sure I put them back the way they I found them, but that’s wrong apparently. 🤦‍♂️

[@paulovaz1174]

@@MRrwmac maybe mecanical link "rod" that open and closes main oil distribution valves not adjusted correct or maybe a kink in oil hose that feeds the final drive on that side maybe?

[@chuckfogle1762]

You are really good at fixing dish washers. Well done.

[@netts2315]

My dishwasher is the old flesh type. Will this work with that as well? Haha

[@fredscheerle7592]

If you can plumb it up its still going to leak and badly! But ready for landfill.

[@gordonagent7037]

John, as a cocky myself here in Australia I really appreciate your “never say die” attitude and your approach to having a crack at everything. I also like the self examination process you go through for self improvement, really impressive mate. Most of all I really liked you service technique towards dishwashers, absolute bull terror, well done cobber.

[@michaelovitch]

Before rebuilding the drive motor,check its flow rate and pressure,input/output to confirm its weakness and the linkages between the distributor and the lever. You may be able to rent the flow meter and the pressure gauge.

[@FarmCraft101]

Thanks.

[@Highstranger951]

Yep, the linkages will drag.

[@Jake-if3zn]

The very first step to testing any drive motor is checking the case drain line. There should only be minimal drip to a slow dribble.

[@michaelovitch]

@@Jake-if3zn Thanks.

[@mwnciboo]

Rapidly becoming one of my favourite channels - your talents in fixing things is really impressive - but most of all, your presentation, honesty on successes and failure is great.

[@henrikstrand72]

Support rings are usually added to keep the o-ring from extruding into the gap between rib and piston in high pressure applications. Should be on the other side of the o-ring in your case since the pressure is from the inside. Probably not an issue for your application. Might be for installation purposes to avoid squeezing the o-ring when installing the piston.

[@JCWren]

Those are probably the original factory seals in the adjusters, and you'd expect them to be put in correctly. I imagine the parts or service manual also indicated which way they should be installed.

[@TheGuyFromDenmark95]

I think its more for keeping it in place when releasing the track, to keep it from sliding backwards with the piston. The force it took to put in the scraper, I will garantere will prevent the O-ring from moving outwards

[@dorotaglosowitz]

The backup ring is definitely on the wrong side of the oring, backup ring always goes opposite of where the pressure is coming from.

[@FarmCraft101]

@Henrik Strand Thanks, good to know. If I get any leakage Ill flip them around. Cheers.

[@dorotaglosowitz]

@@FarmCraft101 I think you will be fine in this instance because it’s a lower pressure system, just some knowledge for the future.

[@Hey_Its_That_Guy]

Love your videos, John. The dishwasher repair was great! It's hard to tell on the video, and I'm sure you looked them over, but... The coil springs on your idler shafts both looked very compressed to me. Is there any "spring" left in them? They should allow some travel. Might explain why you can't adjust your track up tighter. I know you said the tracks plenty tight for your taste, which they may be, but I'd be willing to bet the pistons are nearly all the way out now, even on your new tracks.

[@Anders_HeymSR30]

I second that, good spot!

[@Highstranger951]

Those springs are captive, they are fine as long as there is preload against the retainer.

[@Alasdairryan]

Before you go and start rebuilding the travel motor check to see if you can make any adjustment at the bottom of travel motor levers around where they join onto the valve

[@FishFind3000]

I know for my zero turn I have one lever that adjusts so you can get hydro motors to move at the same rate.

[@marco98V]

We hat that same problem with or Volvo. Both sides needed 40 bar but one side did like 20 just couple Turns and it drove straight.

[@phillipmatthews8341]

So that’s how you fix the dishwasher seal. Good job.

[@ales04]

On my mini excavator there was a problem in the pump for uneven rotation of the tracks. I switched the hoses, so now the blade goes slow.. :D

[@jespermattsson81]

Travel speed / travel speed / Travel speed In my own experience with travel speed difference. The problem 90 procent is adjusting the return valve for the slowest travel motor, and then after ( if speed is stil to different) adjust the other side to lower speed 😊 Hope to se you do the job. Btw the return filter is also a SUPER important issue, easily overlooked😊 Mattsson

[@thomasfriis-eriksen7687]

The landscaping and tree removals, opening up that field was just joy to watch. I really like how you fix equipment, and go out to use it...

[@Jake-if3zn]

A little bit of advice coming from a heavy equipment mechanic of 10 years, you don't ever grease mating the surface between the wiper seal and the in bore of the barrel. The point of it being dry is to have a proper press fit so the wiper seal has the least possibility of being pushed back out. Furthermore, if there are dings and scratches in what's supposed to be a seal surface, that is always bad. Even if the edges of the dings and scratches aren't raised. It gives oil/fluid/grease a path to work past your sealing parts. And tracks from aftermarket companies are not as bad as you think. OEM is never your only option. And prices for OEM are always more expensive. I cannot count how many sets of tracks if priced and replaced over the years.

[@johnjr3870]

Having done a track and adjuster, first thing I got was a 12v grease gun. Love the washer fix and how you do things!

[@markwelch1836]

I wonder if the backer ring (spacer) could be trimed by your lathe? Maybe mount it to a pipe?

[@systemsrenegade9888]

squeeze it between 2 big washers or spacers on the lathe to trim it.

[@1983mojo1]

Mark Welch :That is what I was thinking, used to machine rubber that way 40 years ago.

[@1983mojo1]

@@systemsrenegade9888 great idea!

[@MarkFlik]

I found it very interesting to see the whole system torn down regardless of your final realisation. I never knew how the track adjuster worked so am happy to now know. Your videos are great, thanks

[@boinger1988]

came for the seals...stayed to watch you struggle. Love the videos! keep up the good work

[@raiko3412]

Another awesome video! Nothing better then watching a man with good work ethic, good sense of humor and good moral!

[@lettersandnumbers81]

you know youre on the right track when there is a new farmcraft video on a friday night

[@_aullik]

nice pun

[@twwtb]

I see what you did there, but it was the LEFT track....or...does it even matter.

[@lavasiouxwindwater9789]

Yep! Got the heating blankets on high, some Pecans and a glass pf water. Life is good!

[@TheMonkdad]

@@lavasiouxwindwater9789 I don’t believe I’ve ever heard of anyone describing a comfortable scene including a glass of water unless they were in a life raft or a desert.

[@thardyryll]

@@TheMonkdadI am pretty sure that darn autocorrect changed “gin” to “water.”

[@Highstranger951]

There are linkages directly below the drive sticks. They are accessible from the front of the cab below the floor. These are notorious for sticking, we spray with penetrating oil a few times a year. Helps some with the tracks running different speeds.

[@mashyken]

Love your mini videos since I have identical machine. I just took all the rollers out to replace and found the rollers were wearing into their holding plates, almost 1/2 way through. I welded up the grooves to add more metal so they would not wear through and cause extensive damage later. Also, I use come alongs hooked to my front bucket area (the side swing helps for each track, as it still holds the machine up. I am too old to use crow bars and hurt my back. Getting over the upper carrier wheel I use a board to the inside slope and on the outside of the track use a scissor jack on a 6x6 to raise it to clean the lip. Also the front idler wheel you can no longer get rebuild kits, you have to buy the entire assembly, here in Ontario Canada, a single idler wheel assembly from Yanmar is $2,200. I order mine direct from China, in advance. Not the same quality but at $170 each, for the amount of personal use the machine gets, I can buy several and keep a set on hand for back ups

[@Slider68]

Seeing you limp your excavator along brought back memories... I worked on a farm from the age of ~10 years old until 25 (40+ years ago) and we had an old excavator with a broken track. We rarely needed to use it (we also had a backhoe, a couple of skid steers and another tractor with a loader), but when we did use it, your method of moving it with the broken track was our "normal" way of moving it around. After years of practice you can actually get pretty quick at driving around using one track and the excavator... Our track problem was a combination of a stripped planetary gear set, worn drive cogs and a broken tensioner. The previous owner had made the one side work by combining everything that worked on one side; so we were actually the second owners that moved it around using the one track and the bucket. Typical farmer mentality... If it works, no matter how badly, don't mess with it...

[@2-STROKEFUN]

Hi John, thank you for all the informative, entertaining and encouraging videos. I like that you are honest. People need to understand that we learn from mistakes and we’re not perfect at all. Also I think you answered your own question about getting the tracks tensioned to within a half an inch.

[@python3574]

My KX-121 Excavator also tracked slow. When I went to change the gear oil in them the slow side final drive was like draining a septic tank. It was ate up bad. Rebuilding the final drive is simple though, just remove the track, pull the lines, and remove the sprocket. Then carefully drop it in a junk pile and install a rebuilt one. BTW, never had a dishwasher need repaired, but did have an undercounter ice maker need some work done to it. Nothing fixes an icemaker like 4 lbs of Tannerite. It definitely doesn't make all that racket anymore.

[@jasonclark7865]

Hi John. Discovered your channel about a month ago and have gone back and watched almost every video you put out. Appreciate what you do. It's channels like yours is why I don't have or need cable!

[@tcgrizz59]

Your patience and wisdom inspire me. Watching you is therapeutic. Your dishwasher repair reminds me of an incident from years ago. I let my 7 year old son run over an old freezer with a bull dozier. An event he will never forget.

[@seansysig]

John I kept yelling at screen to just replace the seal on the grease fitting! I truly understand the knowledge philosophy. Great content and humor.

[@kdegraa]

Hearing the rain falling on the roof while you work undercover shows progress in a short period of time.

[@Psychlist1972]

I'm always amazed by how heavy those tracks are. I know they're not, but I keep thinking they should be light.

[@netts2315]

I think we think of them as light because we're used to car tires being quite big yet weighing not much because of air, but these tracks are solid rubber with steel inside :)

[@keithyinger3326]

I've had to work on both Rubber and steel tracks and in the end, rubber tracks are light compared to full steel tracks lol. You wrestle those buggers around with chains and come-alongs.

[@netts2315]

@@keithyinger3326 Isn't a single link on a steel track like 40 pounds even on the smaller excavators?

[@keithyinger3326]

@@netts2315 ya, at least 40 lbs each for smaller tracks. D8 tracks weigh a lot more. Even the tracks on the excavator probably weighs 60 is 70 lb / link. They sure feel pretty close to an 80lb bag of concrete anyways haha

[@netts2315]

@@keithyinger3326 That's wild! Thank you for sharing you experience!

[@johnhewetson4406]

Another great video. Just a thought on the two tracks not operating at the same speed. I have done many tracked pieces of equipment and in a couple of cases it was the actuation of the drive that was not engaging the same. In other words the control linkage. Might want to check that first. I am sure you can check this out pretty quickly and verify that when both levers are fully actuated that they are running at the same speed. If not then yes likely a bigger repair. Love the repair of the dishwasher. We have some really big logging equipment like a "Feller buncher and grapple skidders" and I have used them on occasion to punish uncooperative appliances after wasting a lot of time on them.🤣

[@Neo7CNC]

I like how you fixed the dishwasher :)

[@onehappyfarmer3461]

I can't believe how simple that track adjustment is. Really apprieciate the video. I liked how you fixed the dishwasher. The tracking problem has more to do with the linkage or cables in the levers than in the tracks.

[@theyoutubeapprentice9148]

Great video! I`m actually gonna check out a loose track on my Yanmat Vio75. Thanks to you I now know how to adress the problem, and I thank you allot for it👌. Love your videos. Especially the excavator ones.

[@EddieTheGrouch]

Seems your'e looking at a maintenance procedure for track adjustment. Track is stiffest when new so will not yet conform at the ends. Give it some time to break-in. Also, recall that the idler is spring loaded so some grease should go to preload them a bit. You don't want the idler assembly just rattling around loose. After break-in, the spring load will be included in that 1/2 gap. For the hydraulics you might use mechanics ears or point-and-shoot thermometer to compare the two drive valves and rule out one bypassing fluid before tackling the drive motor since it's a cheap fix. You have a great channel that I look forward to each week.

[@jonathanfenne4948]

I reckon you have half an inch in wear at the idler pulley guide hole. So the idler is drooping lower and preventing you achieving half inch clearance. Great fixes John.

[@georgehofgren6123]

Nope. Electric grease gun just doesn't have enough b--ls to get enough grease in 💁

[@nathanwight1527]

Another great video John. Loved the repair of the dishwasher 👍

[@Batti2323]

I had no idea how those grease pressurized tensioners worked. Thanks for showing us!

[@chasboomer2588]

That new o-ring and old o-ring idea really will work for very long. That grease is applying hydraulic pressure. The backup ring is designed to take up space so the o-ring can fit through any gaps and blow out, as those springs are pretty heavy-duty looking. Just sure you put on the right side of the o-ring it does make a difference of leaking or not leaking. We had a 150 punch press with a hydraulic overload cylinder that used that same principal..

[@JS-ct5jn]

The seal jokes just don't get old for me😆

[@MG-nz6bx]

the whole not being able to adjust to within 1/2" thing just means the tensioner springs are "well-seasoned". there's nothing wrong with it. the grease pistons just take up the extra slack (hence what they're called). it's the tension springs that are giving your tracks the final tension without damaging them. they just aren't spring chickens anymore. someone may have over greased them once upon a time and over-compressed them. no big deal, the tension you have is fine. all you're trying to do is keep it from throwing a track when you do a turn or skip a tooth on the drive sprocket! nice job. i love the resourcefulness and all the right ways you know how to save an extra buck vs when to bite the bullet and pony up the cash.

[@thomaswarnecke3991]

You can make your own seal puller easily. By bending a square rod and grinding down the end into a hook and then bending the other end tpo allow you to hit with hammer and add a handle to hold the tool while hammering.

[@ohhpaul7364]

I thought you might taper the bank back so you could mow it while you were there working. I love a sycamore tree but man do they drop a ton of branches every year, sometimes they just drop half the trunk for no apparent reason too.

[@ARA-tg2hl]

Absolutely love your videos John. So easy to learn from your content whether I will ever use the knowledge or not. There just fun to watch. The next time I need to fix the door seal on dishwasher I will know exactly what to do.😁 By the way, that dishwasher looked like it was made out of “Chineseium” metal and plastic when you got done not having a problem with the door seal. Have a great weekend.

[@JaccovanKoll]

Yay!!! You've got Top-Soil Generator 2: The Ditch.... Every end of fall, clean out your ditch with your excavator, get it into your dump-truck and put it to the pile of your main top-soil generator. Due to the fact that you want your ditch to be open and clean (to get your snow in, or get your water out), only helps if you keep it clean, to the sub-soil level. Just sayin' 🙂

[@monkeythe1st]

Great video as always. Thank you for the time and effort you put into making them.

[@aukanmeister]

I just bought my own first excavator, a small and old one. I'm just a homeowner with a slightly bigger yard than a normal, but the excavator certainly gets a workout! I love working on it, and I learn with you when you do your excavator projects.

[@georgefitisemanu6281]

Love this content! Great channel John, your a very smart man, it always amazes me how you just get in and do stuff I love the on the job training approach. Thanks for another great video.👍

[@turtuhl]

I wonder if you could have double-sided taped the backup rings to a wooden puck and used the lathe to take off the 20-thousands from the OD?

[@paulcamp6539]

Nice job , this video helped me a lot . I’m about to get one similar to yours and this has made me a little more confident in doing my own repairs. Thanks again.

[@jobyevans7102]

You pulled the cylinder, at that point you might as well replace the o-rings. I probably wouldn’t have done the wipers just to save time and money but that’s me. The back up teflon ring should just keep the o-ring in place I wouldn’t sweat it. I like watching you figure stuff out and I really appreciate how brave you are just tearing into stuff I think you really give some confidence to guys that might be a little more hesitant working on their own stuff.

[@Mr.Unacceptable]

Slide hammer seal remover works well to stop you from prying on landings.

[@chiplittlefield6188]

Like the video. great fix on washer. With your skills you could have made a pull for the seals in the time you fought with them.

[@CathyInBlue]

I think one thing that's instructive to keep in mind is that these are called tracks. As in traction. As in friction. They're designed and intended be really hard to slide across a surface. Might have been advisable to toss a layer of cardboard on the ground, for the track to slide on. That digging pry bar under the blade frame was genius.

[@goodboyringo9716]

A come-a-long tool would help pull on the track. Nice job.

[@Slider68]

One trick I've found that works well to install slightly oversized press fit seals, is to use a large socket (like you did) but ALSO add a long extension. The advantage of using the long extension is you can use a large sledge hammer and be confident the force is spread out well and also well centered. It is almost impossible for the seal to go in cock-eyed using this technique.

[@paulcarter4689]

Love it honest approach to a first time repair…as an Engineer of 40 years the chance to do a project a second time and use the experience never happened so I crack on I love your attitude

[@georgekelly5338]

I use ratcheting load binders and chains to install tracks by myself on excavators by myself at work. It saves my back and feet. I hook the chains/binders to whatever stationary thing is next to the machine or a forklift.

[@jason01095]

Great video; love learning about fixing heavier equipment and lol @ the dishwasher segment. It will never bother anyone ever again. Totally fixed. Cheers!

[@jjohnson2553]

The cedar trees would be more useful for animals to shelter from the weather and to stop erosion, or even as fence post if they're growing in a fence row. The pines are pretty useless for this and if your soil is already acidic, the pine needles are just contributing to make that even worse. Nice fix on the dishwasher. I've got one that's ready for that same repair but I don't own an excavator.

[@craigsudman4556]

Great video John, I especially liked the dish washer fix. Thumbs up.

[@erichenao6537]

Do a Camatera… cut up the old track in to segments. Like big enough to fit in your hand. Sign them, and then sell them online for $100. 23 = paid off new track.

[@Martin-xo2le]

I love these fixing vids on excavators

[@tujuprojects]

It should break more often.

[@richardm5589]

That dishwasher "repair" was awesome. Replaced the flow meter on my Bosch about two years ago and the electronics decided to take a dirt nap a few weeks ago. Having then looked at a bunch of them, I can say with some confidence - they are all GAR-BIJ. Went with another Bosch but it is not nearly as well built as the 12yr old one it's replacing.

[@danbrown4017]

You need a Lock-n- Lube end for your new grease fun!! They work amazing!!

[@lastplacetrophy3821]

Love those. Makes the lube jobs so much faster and easier.

[@marcosmota1094]

Hole saw plug. Use that as the anvil, load it into a drill and sand off the extra backup ring material. If you want to check your progress, take a Sharpie and smear the corner of the ID with a fine line of overspill. Rest the side of the tip on the corner and go around the ID. The overspilled ink will leave a fine, consistent line.

[@zakksrage]

It’s honestly so amazing what a simple basic design the track frame an adjuster is. Maybe the only thing made to date that isn’t overly engineered

[@tomfeldkamp4554]

Nice video, Jon. I always learn from the projects you take on.

[@thomaswarnecke3991]

Snap on tools had a seal remover with a hook on the end that you can pull seals out tapping on the handle to pull the seal.

[@SupremeRuleroftheWorld]

might want to do a retake on the opening shot, the correct sentence should be: "working on the excavator today... again...."

[@ericwalstrand3512]

He's saving that for the manlift

[@daniellassander]

When i was in the military we just set the track on the drive wheel and let the machine pull it on, because it will do that. Saves a ton of work and trouble, those tracks were hefty things, if i remember correctly 2-2.5 metric tons each. There wasnt a candle in a hurricanes chance we could ever do it manually.

[@Pro2eus]

With regards to track tension. Running them tight does increase wear on tracks (both rubber and steel) but helps keep them on in rough / rocky terrain and how much you are scrubbing around. My general preference is to run the tracks on the slack side as long as they aren't coming off. Secondarily one of those little kito chain lever hoist things are very handy if you need to get a track on by yourself in the field. as can be using rocks / debris to form a little ramp then use the track motor to drive the belt over the idler.

[@francisbaker9366]

Always love the matter of fact approach you have to tasks, please forgive if I'm compleatly wrong but are there any adjustments for the leavers under the floor plate perhaps a boly has come loose lengthening a rod.

[@TheGuyFromDenmark95]

I dont work on work equipment, but am a mechanic. The backup ring which is hard and stiff, is from my experience there to keep the actual O-ring in place, and I bet you its needed when you release the pressure, otherwise the piston would probably drag the O-ring down. Great video though, I would taking it apart was the right thing to do, would have done the same, now you know for sure what the condition of the parts are. Keep it up!

[@The-Deadbolt-Deputy]

The price of that new track is absolutely INSANE to me !! Now I’m curious about the process how they are made and what exact material and all . Or , are they just making a killing on these things or what.

[@georgecazacu6118]

An idea on how to get to the 1/2 inch when tensioning the track. Before pumping grease all the way to the desired goal, lower the track all they way down onto a flat surface. I think the weight of the lower portion of the track works against you. But if that lower portion is flat, the weight of the upper portion of the track will help reduce the resistance to the grease gun. Great videos, you do an awesome job filming, explaining, and fixing stuff! I don't have any of the heavy equipment you do, but I enjoy watching your videos a lot.

[@reinhardtcitel8542]

Liked it before I watched it, 'cause I KNOW ITS GONNA BE GOOD!!!

[@glennkristiansen]

I do the same thing every time 😅👍

[@ryanv3751]

Thanks for taking the time to film and share! I was going to ask where the grease was escaping from if it was not holding pressure…but you answered that.

[@iceflameproductionz]

How do you feel about the purchase of this excavator do you like it? I think you got dealt some crappy problems but I imagine those older Japanese minis are really strong. I bought an IHI 30J for 18k and I put a new track on it, built a thumb for it, and replaced battery alternator and glow plug controller. Been a beast

[@FarmCraft101]

I'm happy with it. I knew it had some issues but I got it for a good price.

[@iceflameproductionz]

@@FarmCraft101 really looking forward to a future video addressing the track speed problem. My IHI 30j has a very similar problem except only in the forward direction. Reverses great but the left side tracks slow going forward. It still has "dozing" torque but it's slow going forward and especially uphill. Pretty much reverse everywhere when traveling.

[@MitzvosGolem1]

I got a IHI 55 2016 now KATO awesome strong good quality like all Japanese equipment.

[@renkemam]

Great video. Like the way you teach us, no bla bla bla, but straight to the point, not forgetting mistakes and valued advice. Thank you.

[@aaronconner2010]

Boy I could see that dishwasher joke coming from a mile away. Still enjoyed it though!! Lol

[@timberhitchllc]

The white component you're referring to as a backup ring is likely a firmer material, almost the durometer of UHMW or Teflon. It's a guide bushing to keep the piston from contacting the walls of the cylinder (since the neoprene o-ring and urethane wiper are so soft, they can't perform that function). In larger cylinders, the guide bushing is a rectangular cross-section instead of circular to give it more surface area against the piston. Usually, these are found amongst the rod end seal assembly in the cylinder body and also in the piston (between the extend and retract seals on double-acting actuators).

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

The backup ring serves to keep the O ring from deforming under pressure. If the cylinder is a double acting cylinder, that is, it has pressure on both strokes, you use two backup rings. One on either side.

[@adrianstanton2652]

A question Do the idlers have grease fittings? Or are the dry? That would give you a longer life for the bearings.

[@goltzhar]

Ratchet strap is your friend, put the hook on the idler wheel side on the belt, anchor it to the blade arm and start ratcheting. Hope that makes sense :)

[@byronmarcum4590]

There 2 reliefs on each travel motor. Find spec in book for your pressures. It could be a relief needing adjusted. The reliefs are threaded into what is ( a Compensater ) bolted to the travel motor. I’m not sure of yanmar, but I have not ever seen adjustments at the levers.

[@timvolkmer1121]

Imo youre absolutely right with the track tension. The manual said to tighten it somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 inch which is really tight even for a smaller machine like 1.6t excavator. When you rebuild the Final drives you should do both or the right track will be slower than the left one. As you already said you can controll the "drag" with track tension but not a lot. I dont know how the hydraulics are setup on that specific machine but plugged or damaged lines or a defect on the pre controls could be a reason for the extreme drag too.

[@markbrown9765]

For "shaving" that teflon looking ring. Perhaps get a piece of stock and turn it slightly larger than the ID then put the inner ring on it. Might have enough friction that you could use the lathe to remove just a bit of the OD.

[@alexanderthevoice]

Nice videos, I listen to all your Yanmar ones at first because I bought myself a used Yanmar ViO45-5B 2009. Changed two rollers so I already new how to release the tracks!

[@MRrwmac]

John, Congrats on getting it fixed. I know you’re not looking forward to you fixing the slow side drive, but we will find it interesting. I like fixing stuff myself and enjoy learning how also. Yes, I (like you did) sometimes fudge for time and parts.. haha. Took apart and learned how to rebuild my Harley CV carb that way and not only saved $500 but learned a lot. OK, You did surprise me on the dishwasher fix. Good one!

[@offgridsa2372]

I have the 8 ton version of this excavator and with new tracks and tensioning cylinders. I agree with you. The service manuals spec's for track tension droop is not achievable no matter how much you pump. The tracks are well tight and stay that way with just over 1" dropping measurement.

[@Clarkejt112]

Hop in the cab and spin the tracks a few times as you tighten while the machine is off the ground. I’ve noticed after the first couple revolutions the track actually tightens a little instead of loosening. 1/2” is normal slack. Trust me you don’t want a track popping off in the mud at the worst time possible. An inch is roughly what the steel tracks require. At least on the bobcats anyway. Just my two cents working on an e55

[@Millsy.g]

Before you take apart the track motor, swap the pump outputs if possible. So the lines would power the opposite track. It’s possible it’s your pump that is slow instead of the motor. Mine was like that. But it’s a single pump with two pumps inside it so I don’t know if yours is similar

[@FormerlyKnownAs_Stan]

I'm excited to see the rebuild of the drive motor. Surely I'm more excited than you are about it 😉. If it means anything, I appreciate how you tackle specific tasks. Like keeping everything clean so you can see the job you're doing, and moving one step at a time. Everything is clean, clear and concise.

[@mikekisch5563]

the old track would make a good snow plow blade

[@stevenedwards5356]

Two things:) One: I was ready for the dishwasher fix so you got me there. Two: I think you are gonna be everyone’s best friend with that working excavator 😊

[@MIUWCHRIS]

In my experience as a heavy equipment tech for 14 years even when they are brand new the track tension is always a bigger gap than what they “spec”. Nicely done, and as awkward as they are rubber tracks are definitely easier than the steel on larger equipment.

[@buzztham8149]

Mechanical restriction at the control levers The first reason an excavator pulls to one side could be down to a physical restriction that doesn’t allow the control spool to open fully and let the drive get the full flow of oil needed. This could be due to a stretched or unbalanced link cable between the control lever in the cab and spool, or simply a build up of debris around the control lever not allowing it to open fully. Worn undercarriage Check the condition of the track, rollers and idlers. A seized or collapsed bearing or tight track links can cause an enormous amount of friction. This may appear to be an excavator weak track but it is one track motor working harder than the other giving a reduction in speed. Worn main hydraulic pump In smaller excavators there is one main pump that supplies the oil to both track motors. Although there is one common pump, the valve plate is effectively ‘split’ so it is perfectly possible for one side of the valve plate to wear, causing excessive case drain for one half of the circuit, meaning one side of the machine will be getting more pressure and flow than the other side. This causes excavator tracking to one side. Larger excavators use dual pumps, a separate pump for either side of the machine. A difference in tracking speed could be down to one of the pumps being damaged, causing excessive case drain and lack of pressure/flow. Worn servo pump The servo pump provides the pressure and flow to release the brake (if externally controlled) and operate the two speed tracking. It is possible for a weak servo pump to not have enough power to allow one brake to release properly or only have enough power to engage one drive into two speed. One drive stuck in high speed The most common style of excavator track motor is the Axial Piston Motor with swash plate to give the function of two speed tracking. If the two speed tracking circuit gets damaged, it is possible for the two speed spool or piston in one track motor to get stuck in the high speed position. Worn motor Over time it is inevitable that the track motors will wear. Most commonly it is down to contaminated oil. Inside the hydraulic motor there are metal components that have to rotate against each other. To stop them making contact and binding against each other there has to be a certain amount of controlled oil leakage (case drain). If the oil is contaminated, the debris will scratch the components in the motor, causing excessive case drain. The oil now being passed straight to the case drain line isn’t contributing to the power of the motor, causing a reduction in speed and excavator tracking problems. An easy check to see if the track motor is generating too much case drain is to remove the case drain line, measure the amount generated over one minute and check against manufacturers specifications. Worn gearbox A worn gearbox will add extra load to the hydraulic motor and cause a reduction in speed. Check the condition of the oil and condition of main bearings etc. Leaking turning/swivel Joint Between the upper structure and the undercarriage there is a turning joint. This joint has multiple chambers that allows the oil to flow from the upper structure to the undercarriage. There are different pressures in each chamber (flow/return are high pressure, 2 speed and brake are servo pressure and case drain is low pressure). The turning joint can leak internally, allowing the wrong pressures to be in the wrong chambers. This can cause a deviation in track speed and even catastrophic motor failure if not fixed. It is important to remember that contamination causes 90% of all hydraulic failures and the majority of excavator tracking problems. Track motors suffer the most because they are at the very bottom of the circuit where all the sludge collects. Track motors also put the greatest demand on the hydraulic pump compared to any other function on the machine and people confuse the fact that a slow final drive might be a symptom and not the cause of another problem somewhere further up the circuit.

[@ionstorm66]

The seal makes the cylinder work, the wiper KEEPS it working. An old wiper lets dirt in, which then gets stuck on the wiper and seal. That dirt then rubs grooves into the rod. Now on a track adjuster its not as big of a deal, but it's good practice to always replace the wiper.

[@geralddixon3333]

I really enjoy watching your videos. In my younger days I fixed everything myself. Mainly because I couldn’t afford to pay someone else. So watching you brings back memories of the good old days. Thanks for the great videos and I’m still learning from your talents. Keep them coming!

[@MyJp1983]

Your mechanical aptitude is inspiring, you make it up as you go and you make it look very reasonable. Sadly there are people that do it for a living getting lapped by a determined farmer. Thank you for the video!

[@bretmartin2826]

Sometime in future I’d like to see a paint job. For some reason I love seeing equipment get restored. Letsdig and diesel creek got me started. Lol. Love how you explain what your doing.

[@woodcox0171]

My dishwasher stopped pumping once. Turns out when pistachio shells get hot and wet, easy there, they curl up enough to get past the screen and lodge them selves into the pump impeller. Funny, I don’t even eat pistachios nor do I put the shells in coffee cups, of course it’s my fault for not seeing it before I loaded the dishwasher. Nice work with the track adjusters, Sir.

[@barrygrant2907]

You fix dishwashers like I fix electronic items. Smash 'em!