Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra Review - Honey, I Shrunk the Printer!!!

[@FauxHammer]

*GET THE Mars 5 or 5 Ultra Here * - geni.us/ElegooMars5Ultra Please support us by clicking our links to check out Loot Studios *Loot Studios Sci-Fi* - geni.us/LootStudiosSciFi *Loot Studios Fantasy* - geni.us/LootStudiosFantasy *Loot Studios Freebies* - geni.us/LootStudiosFreebies After watching this, get your ass over to @RisingApe !!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6Sak5qpZploqNU Get any printer working easily with the Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023738 (watch my video for full instructions kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZ6TXq1vbJannbs) Join this channel to get access to perks: kzbin.info/door/_9Jsf3SP8aMJgn0xv5jHjAjoin Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer 3D Printer Cleaning Mat: geni.us/3DPrinterCleaningMat This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/ Special thanks to the following Creators who provided models The Damned Wargames Atlantic/@MiniWarGaming - gamefound.com/projects/mwg--wargames-atlantic/the-damned#/section/the-damned-infantry-23207 (not publically available as STL Files) Wolverine - Drafnir Studios - cgtrader.sjv.io/3eJyqv Artis Opus FauxHammer Essentials Set: store.artis-opus.com/products/fauxhammer-mixed-brush-set-5-brush-deluxe FauxHammer Facebook Group - facebook.com/groups/PaintHub FauxHammer 3D Printing Group - facebook.com/groups/3dprintedminiatures FauxHammer Discord - discord.gg/dPexM9SeN4 Best Airbrush For Miniatures: www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/best-airbrushes-for-miniatures-wargames-models/ Beginner Airbrush: www.fauxhammer.com/featured/best-beginner-airbrush-for-miniatures/ Affiliate Links to support us. Element Games - elementgames.co.uk/wargames-and-miniatures-by-manufacturer/games-workshop/warhammer-40k/warhammer-40000-indomitus-english-?d=10279 Wayland Games - affiliates.waylandgames.co.uk/781-1-3-4.html Forbidden Planet: forbiddenplanet.com/catalog/?q=Warhammer%20Imperium&sort=title&page=1&affid=FauxHammer& Amazon - www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Warhammer&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Website: www.fauxhammer.com/ Facebook: facebook.com/pg/FauxHammerBlog/ Twitter: twitter.com/FauxHammerBlog Instagram: instagram.com/fauxhammerblog/ Pinterest: www.pinterest.co.uk/fauxhammer/ Video Editing by VidPros: app.vidpros.io/r/J50Z26

[@michaelsumrall8841]

Do not buy the Mars 5. Elegoo only sells replacement LCDs for the Mars 5 Ultra.

[@erre333]

Please 🙏🏻 we definitely need a video of how to use the calibration feature on the Saturn 4 ultra. It’s very confusing. In all the groups of Facebook this has been a major issue as well as settings. Lots of people are having a hard time levelling the plate and getting things to stick or to release easily from the plate. We definitely need a good tutorial from a real expert like yourself. On a side note thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and a keeping it real. Sincerely thank you.

[@WJdriver000]

Yea i cancelled my preorder after seeing this

[@strangersun7721]

I've been printing like mad with it. Haven't run into an issue. Will have to look into what folks are saying

[@Mrpancake72]

I also have an issue with my saturn ultra and going through customer service hell. The back of the build plate is not pressing against the film. Using a piece of paper cut in half you can move the back portion with no resistance. The front is snug like it should. Customer service has been notified of this and they are starting me with the "is your screen working?"

[@FauxHammer]

I’ve heard of this and will do some research.

[@erre333]

@@FauxHammer thank you kindly 🙏🏻definitely looking forward to seeing that video.

[@ger5956]

Recently got myself a P1S through your videos/links, I have to say it’s been absolutely incredible! I’ve been blown away by the speed, videos really don’t do it justice in that regard. The quality of the prints has been flawless, only one fail and that was entirely my fault. Thanks for all the work you do, really appreciate it! 😅❤️👍🏻

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

I'm glad you've continued using the Micron measurement you outlined in that one video, make it a lot easier to compare the printer's detail capabilities

[@FauxHammer]

Glad it was helpful!

[@RisingApe]

Haha 😂 thanks for the shout out and yes people, use Ross’s links

[@FauxHammer]

Any time!!!!

[@NextGenBase]

Re the Cones of Calibration - I had the *EXACT* same issue with my Saturn 4 Ultra - If you look at the base on the one in the video and compare it to the actual STL, the floor is much closer to the skull/mug than it should be. I think this is down to bottom layer exposure time - I dropped mine down to 25 seconds and it printed perfectly after that. Completely amateur take here, but it looks like the plate is rising when longer exposure times are happening, making the base layers a lot thicker than it should be... Might be miles off, but glad to see the 'compression' issue is being mentioned (I print some stuff in my Etsy store directly on the plate, and the first ones I tried on the S4U weren't sellable due to this issue)

[@awildtomappeared5925]

it's not bottom exposure time, if you can try longer wait times and also see if the printer allows you to adjust the z offset. on previous ones you could send the plate to hom and then move it and then set z =0. This was for if you leveld and the height in each corner was similar but they were all eg 0.5mm low. This should auto zero but it's clearly not doing it well which could be fixed by setting a higher z offset, that or the springs are compressing when they shouldn't which could be fixed with longer wait times.

[@NextGenBase]

@@awildtomappeared5925 I don't know what to tell you, all I did was change the bottom exposure time and it fixed it for me - went from looking like the one in the video to looking exactly like the STL 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@FauxHammer]

Did you reduce exposure time then? I got base exposure as low as I could before stuff started falling off. But Tom knows what he’s talking about, he’s the one to explained the compression issue to me. I’ll learn more and put a video together. Once I know how to consistently show it and how to test and resolve it

[@NextGenBase]

@@FauxHammer Just the base exposure - It was at 35s, dropped it to 25 and the issue went away. Not discounting any info at all, it's literally all I changed and it fixed it. Intrigued to see a video on the compression thing, it's plagued me across multiple prints and printers for a while until I found ways to work around it

[@awildtomappeared5925]

@@NextGenBase thats not what I would expect, but the spring system is well throwing 4 springs in the works so anything can happen.

[@Immolate62]

Picked up one of these for smaller jobs and one for a friend who owns a games and comics store and who hosts our weekly game. He does a lot of 40k, but GW is making life difficult on retailers and he's trying to stay on top of the trends. Now that ABS-like is a thing, he's getting more willing to explore options. I figure with a Mars 5 Ultra, he can get his feet wet. I wouldn't be surprised if he had a half dozen Saturn 4 Ultras cranking out models in a year. I used your link, Ross. Mazel Tov!

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks mate, and yeah! That’s how it starts!!!

[@RWHobbies]

12:23 You prefer something 9 inches plus? 😢

[@FauxHammer]

10” ideally. Going back to something this small just didn’t give me the volume I needed

[@SteveSearle]

😂😂😂😂😂

[@domcisme]

Hey dude just leaving a comment to support you anyway I can. Appreciate all the effort u put into these.

[@hugheja89]

Would be interested in the compression issue you spoke about at 4:54 :)

[@FauxHammer]

On it

[@TheMugwump1]

Hey I was just thinking of something that I don't remember you talking about that can save people a decent amount of $$ on cleaning materials. You may be able to add this to a video. Most people should know you don't want to throw out uncured resin on stuff like gloves and paper towels. I've seen people talk about throwing that stuff in the cure station, but that just makes a mess. What I do Is use a small wash basin in front of the machine when I pull the plate off. The plate goes in the basin. I pop the parts off, and put the plate back on the machine. Next I remove the prints from the supports and wash them. The bin then gets put either in a window or outside for a few hours to cure everything. You can pop out all the cured resin from the wash bin and throw it away. Don't forgot to throw your paper towel etc. here as well. Move things around every now and then if there's a lot of stuff.

[@RocktCityTim]

Thanks, Ross. I got the pre-order email this morning and was curious about the resolution claims. You've answered them quite handily. I think I'll stick with my Mono X 6Ks for the size and keep saving for that Micron SLS 😁

[@FauxHammer]

Ooof that SLS looks crazy interesting. Wish they would send me one!

[@RocktCityTim]

@@FauxHammer Saving my pennies ... at $2K US, maybe by 2027 ...

[@jiidee]

I know little about resin printing, but it occurs to me that if the first few layers of prints are susceptible to compression artifacts, would it not be worth printing these calibration test with X mms of support materials under them to replicate the use case of having prints suspended from supports? Is that maybe a waste of time if prints on supports tend to come out decently anyway? I'm just wondering if people calibrate their settings based on getting the test prints to work when printed right on the bed when they're in that "zone" that is susceptible to warping, but are then printing stuff on supports anyway, then maybe the settings that were "dialed in" aren't actually *that* dialed in?

[@FauxHammer]

There is potential for that yes but I have seen it only once where the pressure release is where the details of a flat test are

[@GregRosolowski]

I make very small mechanical prototypes. Detail and accuracy is super important, in X Y and Z. Is this printer my best choice?

[@misterglo1394]

Now the 4 Max is being phased out should I get this as a starter printer?

[@SgtHouse]

As always, great review! Thank you!

[@FauxHammer]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@Unreal_BE]

Two questions, what lights would you recommend to install? 2) for your tests of minis: what layer level are you using? 50 or 30?

[@nomojo1110]

Cheers Ross. Your advice to purchase a larger model over a few quality of life features certainly resonates and is appreciated. Now I'm off to check out this, 'Bi-pedal in progress primate' friend of yours ;)

[@coopzilla88]

5:59 When you're focusing on the footage of the print and the build plate is close to the bottom of the vat, it looks like the build plate keeps getting pushed up but when the build has progressed a while, the build plate is steady as a rock. Do you think that might have something to do with prints suffering if they are printed directly to the plate?

[@FauxHammer]

Oh shit yeah!!! That’s the compression issue

[@Lychee3d]

As always, great review 👌

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks so much!

[@originalSPECTER]

Will be purchasing my first resin printer for miniatures at the end of the summer so I’m anxious to see what’s available at that time. My priorities are accuracy, ease of use, ability to easily hook up ventilation (gonna be venting it to the outside with fans). I’m particularly interested in the projector (DLP) printers, but none of the consumer brands seem to be making any new ones.

[@GeekDetour]

Hi Ross!!! You got your video quickly this time! ❤

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks mate, made sure to have it ready for launch!

[@GeekDetour]

@@FauxHammer By the way I cannot find the Cones of Calibration V3 - the one with the Sword... Could you put a link for it please?

[@thatblastedsamophlange]

I'm torn about this. I like some of the features, on paper. My mars3 is still working well. I only consider the mars series, as I have limited space, and I really just use my mars for prototyping my miniature designs, so I don't currently need more. If the speed is increased, that would help immensely, so the tilt could be a great feature for me. Disappointing about the new cones of calibration not being fully successful.

[@FauxHammer]

Ist better than the Mars 3 but not by a huge amount. Speed is the main thing

[@gkaruk]

Another great review, and heard today the ETA for the Heaters is now Aug 2024. More time to save, boost the ole budget for a Q3 purchase :)

[@FauxHammer]

I have one on order but Elegoo said they would send one too

[@Lumi_nance]

Just bought mars 4 dlp. No worries regarding lcd

[@norseman9166]

Yup great model👍

[@FauxHammer]

Great printer and excellent longgevity too

[@waralo191]

The Prusa SL1 SPEED already innovated the tilting bed 3 years ago btw.

[@FauxHammer]

Yet nobody bought it

[@waralo191]

@@FauxHammer Yeah, it was too expensive unfortunately

[@d4nzu_]

Dimensional accuracy depends on the resin used; light intensity alone won't help in achieving it. Some low to medium quality resins can be adjusted for either tensile strength or dimensional accuracy, but not both simultaneously.

[@monkeydad47]

Voice over sounds much nicer this time, thanks Ross!

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks mate, don’t watch my latest video, especially with headphones. Fucked it right up.

[@rickenbacker6]

The same calibration issues you showed here I'm currently having on my new Mars 4 Ultra. I changed to nFEP but I just can't dial the resin in precisely, like I have on all my other printers (Phrozen Mini 8K, Mighty 8K, Mars 3...). The tests tell me that I need both shorter and longer exposure at the same time! The resin needs more exposure to build tensile strength as small stuff gets ripped off, but at the same time I already see clear signs of overexposure with small gaps starting to fill, small details get slightly bloated with less sharp edges. This has never happened on any of my other printers. I'm getting close to giving up on it and sending it back. If this is the same on the Mars 5 then there's no point for me.

[@thundersoulfpv7876]

What about the regular (4k) Mars 5? I can only find reviews for the ultra version

[@MartinTrebbin]

Hi, I want to exclusively 3D print relatively flat pieces but with max resolutions. I'd love to learn more about the compression issue and how you can actually get true 18µm resolution (microfluidics/microchannels with 50 to few hundred micron channel diameters inside the part). Thanks!

[@FauxHammer]

I’ll look to cover the compression issue. But I do t think you can get that accurate with it. At least not without hours, or even days if dialing g it in. And for that you want a more specialist technical channel. I’m the crayons guy

[@Gregatron13]

Maybe compression is why my post/holes calibration prints seemed so flat after i replaced the vat on my5S Pro. Should i try those with supports?

[@NetanelDeriWorkshop]

The bottom layers compression effect can be decreased by using wait *after* cure time. Please try it....

[@FauxHammer]

They can on some printers. do you know why this is the case? if so, you probably understand why it's less likely here..

[@DHyre]

Did I mishear or misunderstand about the Z axis having "dual linear rails"? I see only 1, while the Saturn series has always had 2, one of the reasons I'd gone Saturn from v1 and am awaiting my 4 Ultra.

[@FauxHammer]

Sorry, yeah. Only 1

[@OjaioFansub]

may I know where you got that helmet file?

[@sayyahdina]

So if your budget can stretch the S4U is a better buy then this?

[@FauxHammer]

100% better

[@shadowersi6253]

I really need some assistance. I’m new to the resin printing world. Other than size of the printer, is it worth spending more for the Saturn 4 ultra over this? It seems pretty much the same except for the size and lid.

[@larry84903]

Hey Ross, a video on layer compression would be great, I had no idea that was a thing and now I understand why my small 8mm models had weird lines.

[@CornDogShaun]

wifi only works sometimes. other times it sends 0.01% of the file and you have to transfer via usb

[@rowanwinged]

With the Saturn 4 Ultra coming out in the next few weeks I think an explicit guide to the exposure test process would be great. I would like to know if it would be ideal to use the cones of calibration or some other test.

[@FauxHammer]

On it! May not have it out soon…

[@tomgrimes2674]

I’m brand new to 3d printing, and I just bought the mars 5 ultra and can’t even get a basic calibration matrix or cones of calibration to adhere to the build plate. Every print just sticks to the FEP. I’m using a castable resin (Power Resins Vintage) and using a fermentation band to keep the resin warm. But other than that, I can’t figure out the issue. I can’t try and see if the plate isn’t preoperly level as the machine is supposedly self leveling. Are there any other factors that could be leading the first layers of resin to stick to the FEP instead of the build plate?

[@FauxHammer]

Castable resins can be trickier because they are softer, often need longer curing times and slower speed. VogMan may be a better person to ask as he uses castables. I don't. but i don;t know how responsive he is in comments, please use your printer in slow mode, that's a setting on the UI. And Increase your base exposure times. try 1 minute or longer on base exposure. if that gets parts sticking to the plate at least, that's half the battle won.

[@tomgrimes2674]

@@FauxHammer thanks Ross! So far these are all things I’ve tried, but I appreciate you taking the time to help either way… I’ll just keep trying!!

[@FauxHammer]

@@tomgrimes2674 Hmm, I can't think of anything else to be honest. I mean, it could be too long base exposure too. I guess the other thin may be if your plate is not level? as shown in this there is a guide on levelling from Geek Detour?

[@WireHedd]

I was looking at the promo page for this and was thinking many of the same things you brought up about the size. I'll stick to the Mars 4 Ultra and see what happens instead. Thanks Ross, good video. Total protonic reversal. Right, and that's bad. Okay, good advice. Thanks, Ray.

[@FauxHammer]

Hahah, thanks mate. Glad we are working the same language!

[@attiladukai2121]

My wife want to buy a 3D printer for my birthday. I never had one. The question is... should it be a Mars 5 Ultra or Saturn 4 Ultra? I prefer better print quality, but the Saturn is bigger.

[@FauxHammer]

Saturn 4 Ultra has both better print quality and it's bigger.

[@attiladukai2121]

@@FauxHammer thanks!

[@stigmautomata]

i would trade a lot of these features just for built-in heating. normally printers are heated with a heating belt, but i'm concerned this new tilting mechanism would interfere with that :/

[@ChitosVids]

a follow up vid on that compression thing would be great! i wasnt aware of this and would love more info

[@PassJim]

anyone know what/where the primaris helm that he frequently shows off is? I went down a rabbit hole looking for it to no avail :(

[@FauxHammer]

I had it commissioned.

[@ReeseTimm]

Well done, and thanks for ditching the stock footage use.

[@xmasterchini6]

Yo man I'm thinking of picking up the Mars 5 Ultra. I try clicking your affiliate link but it links to US site. When I change it to EU on prompt the web URL removes the affiliate in the source. Is there aw ay to get your link to work for EU store?

[@FauxHammer]

Aww. Thanks for checking mate. But it will still work. Once you go there they will have logged the visit.

[@AGMiniatures]

good honest review of the 5. im not liking the new build plate they have on this and the Saturn 4. its just another faf that seems unnecessary, and even more so if its causing more compression issues. im going to stick with my mars 4 max for now. I think it would be useful for a 'compression guide for dummies' from you as you have a knack for no nonsense explanation and maybe if possible a way to help reduce this.

[@FauxHammer]

Yep, planning that compression guide… but bear in mind. As I said, it’s not just this printer. It’s all printers..

[@AGMiniatures]

@@FauxHammer i have noticed on my 4 max if i print directly onto the buildplate... i may have found a 'fix' for it from various threads. will let you know what and if it works

[@FauxHammer]

@@AGMiniatures no worries. is the fix, excessively long wait times?

[@AGMiniatures]

@@FauxHammer lol no, there are various views on it. from taking apart the printer and changing a rubber gasket (which is a nogo for me) to various re-levelling methods. i can email you the info if you want to look into it

[@FauxHammer]

@@AGMiniaturesno worries. I’m speaking with a few people directly already. Turns out the solutions are various…

[@christophergenovese9010]

Anti-aliasing is still a problem with my Saturn 2, which seems to produce identically aliased prints no matter how much I crank up that setting.

[@FauxHammer]

Really? Mine was fine… what sliver are you using. If it’s Lychee. That’s probably why. It’s a chitu based printer with a chitu motherboard. Chitubox is the way to go. 2xAA with 2x image blur and layer lines should be fine entirely

[@rodrigolopezarechiga6557]

what do you think that the standard mars 5 is only 4k? basically a mars 3.

[@FauxHammer]

I think it's a smart idea. without the Mars 3 being available, we had no printer at an entry-level price point until this.

[@staroversky]

For printing about 9 or less 32 mm miniatures (per unit) for Star Wars Legion, would this be enough or do you still recommend Saturn 4 Ultra? I don't plan to print any terrain.

[@FauxHammer]

I still recommend the Saturn ultra. It’s sharper. And I promise you will soon want to try bigger prints

[@LexOneGTPS]

Do I sense a hint of a 12-14k Jupiter coming soon? Now that my Jupiter is putting out prints with minimal failures I would hop on an upgraded one in a heartbeat

[@FauxHammer]

I can’t say. See you for a live video in the next couple of weeks

[@LexOneGTPS]

@@FauxHammer fingers crossed .

[@elisalas2026]

Hey what layer hight do you use personally for your miniatures❤❤❤

[@brendon6930]

Is the layer compression existent on the Saturn 4 Ultra?

[@j0kerr1]

How do you clean those buld plates?

[@qwijoma1873]

I would like a video about compression issue. My Saturn 4 Ultra WAS good but now has compression issues even with new Firmware supplied by Elegoo. Trying to resolve with customer service 😢

[@FauxHammer]

Ok, will do it. But it’s Nothing to do with the firmware. It’s a hardware thing. Something in your printers z-me Hankin’s has loosened/weakened

[@qwijoma1873]

@@FauxHammer Thanks! I will bring that up with Elegoo customer support.

[@designatedcrafter]

Elegoo are claiming the tilt feature on the Saturn 4 and Mars 5 is "new and innovative", yet the Prusa SL1 had this functionality nearly 6 years ago. Why has it taken so long to catch up?

[@FauxHammer]

It was too expensive and never sold. Elegoo made it affordable

[@justinsher]

@@FauxHammer Regardless of its cost or sales numbers (which "never sold" is a not true), it is still effective tech that has been around for a long time, which I think you should at least state that Elegoo are catching up.

[@henry.daniels]

Any idea about the mars 5 vs the mars 5 ultra ?

[@Legioneair]

Amazing review, but I am torn between buying the mars 5 ultra and saturn 4 ultra. I am an absolute beginner at 3D resin printing and mostly want to print miniatures or maybe larger dragons for dnd campaigns, does anyone have advice on what to buy?

[@FauxHammer]

Saturn 4 Uktra. Easily. It’s sharper, but also it’s bigger and whether is no is or not, imo this felt crippiligly small now I’ve had a bigger one

[@Legioneair]

Thank you so much for the answer, i bought saturn 4 ultra and i have no regrets. Great 3D printer and easy to use

[@Katazo98]

Yeah so what's next the Jupiter 2/2Ultra or the Mars 5 Max ultra

[@FauxHammer]

No idea from Elegoo. I’ll speak more soon

[@nicholassmith5206]

Love that this video is bang on 15 minutes. It's the lil things. Like the mars 5 😅

[@FauxHammer]

I know right, that was just luck. Could have shaved a second off to make it looks a minute shorter and get more views

[@peterclegg2609]

Possibility of an upgraded jupiter sounds good hopefully with the tilting vat?

[@FauxHammer]

Hmm, I don’t think I ever suggested a Jupiter…

[@peterclegg2609]

@@FauxHammer a bigger better quality elegoo printer I'm just hoping it happens, any chance you might do that armour from you mini It would be very cool?

[@josecabellopinto]

Hi! I have seen several of your videos about this type of printer, and in the latest ones, you talk about sharpness issues. If today you had to choose the best "mini" printer in terms of quality-price ratio, even if it's not the latest model, which one would you choose? Thank you!

[@FauxHammer]

Heya. HeyGears UltraCraft Reflex, but it’s not for everyone. But this is by far the best

[@josecabellopinto]

@@FauxHammer And in the same price range? $150-200? Even if it's an older model like the 3Pro?

[@FauxHammer]

Oh same price as this? I'd probably try to find a Saturn 3 , even if paying a tad more

[@SportsCarsSpotter-pk4zv]

You are saying that this 18micron printer is worse than 28 micron saturn🤔

[@FauxHammer]

I'm saying it's not as sharp, yes. Just lik ethe Mars 4, But I did not sue the word "Worse"

[@SportsCarsSpotter-pk4zv]

@@FauxHammer well it should be sharper... please try lowering the light intensity for 20% - i had to do this on my anycubic 6k

[@FauxHammer]

@@SportsCarsSpotter-pk4zvHang on... I'll lower the light intensity by 20% which suggests I should also up exposure time by 20%... same result.?

[@nicholasleon7819]

hi faux! i’m getting ready to take the plunge into the world of 3d printing, specifically for miniatures, and i had a question about your own wargamer brand of resin. it is water washable, but would you still recommend using meth spirits regardless? in your beginner video you said that water washable resins absorb water and that can cause problems. would using meth spirits on your water washable resin avoid that problem? is it even desirable to do so?

[@FauxHammer]

Hiya, yes it is, and yes you can and yes I still prefer to do that myself. It can be cleaned with water unlike some other resins where water will just not dilute the resin at all, but I uses Methys mostly because a 20 minute bath with soften the resin and save you having to use warm water to heat the resin up which also makes the supports softer. Also, imagine cleaning a tile floor, you can clean it with water but cleaning it with something alcohol bases is still a more thorough clean. No idea why, I'm not a chemist, but it works.

[@nicholasleon7819]

@@FauxHammer Thanks for getting back to me! your channel is so helpful

[@SleepyandtheGut]

Hi, awesome videos, beginner looking to print resin terrain as well as miniatures, would it be best to pay the extra for the Saturn 5 or would i be ok with the Mars 5? Thank you for any help 😊

[@FauxHammer]

welcome!!! it would definately be better toi get a bigger printer

[@SleepyandtheGut]

@@FauxHammer awesome thank you for the help 🙂

[@pingbot261]

Dang im looking forward to this! Too bad i already ordered my s4u

[@FauxHammer]

Too bad? I think you’ll enjoy the video

[@frbrbrgrblgrr7777]

​@@FauxHammer oh oh lol

[@Loumenn]

@@FauxHammeroh no!!

[@michaelfranzgarcia7769]

the weird thing it i almost order S4u yesterday win for me i guess they really need to add a flexible plate

[@GeekDetour]

I think there is no reason for you to regret your purchase! The print size is quite bigger!

[@jeremiahembs5343]

Except for the tilt all those features add to the cost of the machine and will cause extra problems. Resin printers should be as mechanically simple as possible so that they are super easy to clean which is super important for safety. They shouldn't have any nooks and crannies for resin to hide in. They shouldn't have any additional parts like cameras or sensors that would require extra trouble shooting or that could get resin on them. I'll stick with my Mars 2 Pro. It's easy to maintain.

[@FauxHammer]

I'm pretty sure the tilt also adds to the cost and can cause extra problems.

[@poni7373]

What a shame that they didn’t change the lid to a hinged version and having a vent hole in the back of that lid. Really? Regarding printing directly on the build plate. I do that quite often with my Phrozen mini 8K. Just need to compensate using UVTools (which btw does not work on the Saturn 3 Ultra and i have yet to find out if it will work with the Saturn 4 Ultra. Reason I print on the build plate is that I print mant technical parts that have flat services and it is just easier to print directly on the build plate.

[@FauxHammer]

Sounds fair but it would not be as easy to angle the parts, support them and not need to worry about the uv tools requirement? Again, just curious

[@ARG]

Hi, I noticed you said “you don’t know why people ever print direct on the build plate” is this always the case no exceptions ? Love the content by the way always my go to channel for 3d printing help and advice and I got the Saturn 3 12k.

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks, I know why I preint exposure tetsts from the bed, but I don't understand why people would print functional/usable models this way rather than support them? The early layers will be overexposed naturally for adherance reasons, so yeah, why would you introduce that natural outcome to your result? If anyone has a reason, I'd love to hear it. That;s why i made the comment, hoping i get educated

[@ARG]

It makes sense to me but I printed a loads of micro controllers cases and if I support them I will get nubs all over the side I support. I need to have a play with it. Also get a Neptune 3 pro tomorrow ( also after watching your video ). I love you my wife hates you 😂😂😂😂

[@NextGenBase]

@@FauxHammer I'll take the flak 😂 - I sell printed trophies and desk-toy plaques on my Etsy store. They're designed in such a way that they don't need support if printed on the plate, and they also keep a very flat base that I've struggled to get with supports even with different orientation. Minis etc, I understand, but there are dozens of us. Dozens!

[@mythrando]

Simpleminded compression video, yes please!

[@mccommie9867]

Question, i see you recommended bigger printers at the start, but if it's just talking about print quality, and im not interested in the larger area, is this one better? Also because in the budget that I'm currently am 270 is a lot of difference against a 330 for a saturn 3.

[@FauxHammer]

No, later in the video I say that this is just not as sharp as those bigger machines either. But it really is a minimal difference

[@gkeaton9755]

I honestly would like to see a 5" inch, fast printer with the 18 micron pixel size. something a little smaller than say, an OG photon, with all of the modern bells and whistles.

[@FauxHammer]

You say you want 18 micron pixels. but so far the 18 micron printers are not as sharp as these. There's technical reasons for that which I'm gonna share in upcoming videos. like my Mars 5 video

[@gkeaton9755]

You get what I am trying to say, though? Small, fast, easy to deal with. I find myself printing one or two minis at a time, not armies.

[@FauxHammer]

@@gkeaton9755 100%, I'm just making sure people understand that pixel size no longer means better quality.. I;m about to doa review of a 10" 8k printer that blows 12k and 14k out of the water!

[@sanke00001]

Great review! I was wondering if you could tell me where you found the cones of calibration v3? I’d love to give it a go, but can’t find it anywhere

[@JerryBWagoner]

Looks like a solid little printer. I've decided to pull the trigger at the end of July. Right now it's between the SU or M7 (this guy is a wee bit small). Certainly looking forward to comparison videos. :) Also, would certainly be eager to see a layer comparison video. Your video a few weeks back on settings was incredible!

[@SebastienChedalBornu]

yes a simple explanation about the compression issue would be appreciated

[@eldarmark]

Hm. My Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k is starting to die (LCD is wigging out a bit) and it's probably time to upgrade... So the question becomes... Mars 5 Ultra or Saturn 4 Ultra, haha.

[@FauxHammer]

lol. Saturn 4 IMO, it's sharper and bigger

[@Daniel-oy4gu]

I’m torn between this and the Anycubic mono x 6ks.

[@FauxHammer]

This. X6ks is end of life. You already can’t get replacement screens. But I think you’d be better with a Mars 4 max if budget is an issue

[@Daniel-oy4gu]

@@FauxHammer thank you for the advice

[@alishaschanz4532]

Thank you!😊

[@akumaking1]

Will there be a chance to swap older printers for the new one?

[@FauxHammer]

Doubt it. Sorry. You could try selling it on

[@vascogabriel3696]

Hey there! I’m new to the 3D printing world and I’m deciding between mars 4 ultra, mars 5 ultra or anycubic photo mono M5s for my 1/24 scale car parts (wheels, body kits,…). Which one do you recommend? Im more interested on the elegoo ones but don’t know which to choose from the 3. As always, great review! Keep up with the good work! Cheers from Portugal

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks. I favour the Saturn. But some people may need the heater in the Phiton. And with the photon you need to change the release fim to get the same detail.

[@GrayeWilliams]

Hey hey hey hey hey. Slow down. I WOULD watch the rest of the video. I knew how titanic ended, still watched it. I’m here for those dulcet British Tones™.

[@FauxHammer]

Hahah, the slower I talk the longer the video. The longer the video, the fewer people watch when they see the timestamp. Also it costs me mroe to edit a longer vid

[@GrayeWilliams]

@@FauxHammer no no, I mean slow down with the “you wouldn’t watch the rest of the video” talk; we’re here for a good time AND a long time 😂

[@FauxHammer]

@@GrayeWilliamsahhhhh!!! lol. Thanks. But trust me. Most wouldn’t 😂😂

[@logangravatt]

seems perfect for me as i only print small jewelry, thanks for the video.

[@the_arcanum]

Get your crayons out Ross ! I definitely would love to learn more about layer compression without having to endure a 90mn scientific lecture detailing their methodology test bed or the fundamentals of fluids mechanics.

[@nikroth]

We are in need of your crayons.

[@FauxHammer]

I’ll get the sharpener out!

[@awildtomappeared5925]

16k 13 inch finally here? heard about those panels last year but it's taken a while lol

[@FauxHammer]

See you soon then!

[@wingwalker007]

My Mars 2 pro is still going strong….. trying to resist the fomo though!

[@walterrldias]

Great Video Ross!! will click on the link as soon as I commit. Would you please let me know if the Mars 4 Ultra has antialiasing working? Also I have got killer resolution with it, using normal FEP, the validation matrix is very crispy. Am I delusional? What is your opinion on the resolution of the Mars 4 Ultra?

[@FauxHammer]

Thankyou. I’ve no idea if the Mars 4 ever fixed the antialiasing issue. I’m not sure they did. Mars 4 ultra is same resolution as this

[@johnhinkey5336]

Unfortunately these new machines from Elegoo seems to have this build plate design even w/o the tilting vat (i.e., the Mars 5).

[@FauxHammer]

Yep. And I’ll talk about that soon in my Saturn 4 and Mars 5 reviews.

[@Venturestien]

Oooooo Where did you get cones of calibration with the skull and sword? I’m loving my S4U and it’s cute to see it has a smaller sibling now lol. 😆

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks, the cones v3 is on their discord

[@mosab84]

Get the crayons, I’d love a video about the compression issue!

[@Shooter_FPV]

I think I'll stick with my Mars 3 Pro, and get the Saturn 3 for larger prints. The Saturn 4 Ultra and this 5 Ultra just isn't worth it, in my opinion...

[@FauxHammer]

Totally fair. Pick what is right for you. The Saturn 3 is ace!!!

[@Hero1117a]

Why is your timestamp wrong?

[@FauxHammer]

Which one?

[@WithinWicked]

I love the videos, but this utterly confuses me. I just shipped my Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra back for a refund since I just bought it for quality, and then they announced they'll be revealing this in a week - so I used my refund policy. I was in a way hoping for quality improvements, don't know why. Either way... outside of being cool and informative, I am trying to establish where to put my money right now - since the only thing I care about is the quality of print. I print miniatures with the sole purpose of painting them for a showcase. Which means I don't print that many or need large volumes - quality and ease of use are the only factors for me. And I really struggle with figuring out what printer to get... is it this with 18 micron pixel size... or is there a larger printer that will still do a better job and maybe just have abigger build plate. I would take a bigger plate... but not if I get to see any layer lines or they come out after I've primed the mini.

[@FauxHammer]

Honestly when it comes to quality. You’re splitting hairs at this level. But the 10” 12 and 14k printers are a little sharper like the Saturn 4 or even the Saturn 3

[@WithinWicked]

@@FauxHammer well I am splitting hairs kind of... because in a way we already are at this point :D So you'd say I'd expect sharper results out of Saturn 4 (Ultra I presume?) over Mars 5 Ultra... I presume after replacing the ACF film for a regular FEP. Btw, nice job and opinions, worth supporting you :)

[@WithinWicked]

@@FauxHammer One final question... Saturn 4 or Uniformation GK2 with 12k upgrade ? :D

[@FauxHammer]

@@WithinWicked ask me again about a wekk into July

[@WithinWicked]

@@FauxHammer whats scheduled a week into July?

[@TriSync]

This appears to have a single linear rail, not dual like the saturn.

[@FauxHammer]

It does. But so does the GkTWO and that is awesome!

[@Mrpancake72]

Boy i hope it works better than the saturn 4 ultra. Mine was defective from day 1

[@mag8mag8]

Did you already receive your Saturn 4 Ultra?

[@Mrpancake72]

​@mag8mag8 yes I pre-ordered it a couple months ago

[@mag8mag8]

Wow, I thought they would start shipping in mid July, nice

[@Mrpancake72]

​@@mag8mag8 I believe there were different waves. The fb group has a few of them already. I guess my machine was built on Friday

[@FauxHammer]

What was wrong with it? Did they not resolve it?

[@W98Dragon]

Finally :) Cant wait to watch it tomorrow

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks, thumbnail kinda says it all!

[@W98Dragon]

@@FauxHammer Yeah I alread saw the features it had, but, I'll take the opportunity to say this, I really enjoy your videos, I love the long and detailed talks and your insights, so even if I already informed myself it's always a pleasure to watch your videos.

[@3dpathfinder]

Do i have to do something to get my name back in the credits? This is the second vid i havent seen it...i live for it lol

[@FauxHammer]

I’m really sorry. It really should be there. Let me check first yoh specifically on the next update. But it’s updated at the beginning of each month.

[@johnhinkey5336]

One can see the build plate flex upward every time when the vat comes up - that's not good.

[@FauxHammer]

At what part of the video? This is in the early layers right? If so, that’s compression