Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra, Worth it for YOUR shop? Well..

The Best Small Resin Printer for your home shop? How about for Newbies? Well, maybe, but with some important caveats... Maybe this helps, maybe it doesn't. You be the judge.
The Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra Printer: shrsl.com/4l58n
Also available on Amazon: amzn.to/4bx5CK0
Elegoo amazon store: amzn.to/45Tqaeu
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#3dprinting #elegoo

[@PaulsGarage]

The Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra Printer: shrsl.com/4l58n Also available on Amazon: amzn.to/4bx5CK0 Elegoo amazon store: amzn.to/45Tqaeu

[@JustinCiriello]

I know you said you don't do a lot of 3d printer reviews. You should reconsider that. This is one of the best 3d printer reviews I've ever seen. Great explanations and points made.

[@PaulsGarage]

Thank you! I generally try to make project videos but the occasional reviews slips in, I'll consider more

[@TheSkaireKrowe]

Great review, Paul. Thank you

[@robinson-foundry]

Great job on this review Paul. I'll be honest, I didn't expect to watch the whole thing as I'm not in the market for one of these, but before I knew it it was over. I think you have a knack for this kind of thing.

[@OhHeyTrevorFlowers]

It's wild that we can get that resolution and speed (in this and other printers) for $300. It's well smaller than the feature size captured by petrobond. 😂

[@PaulsGarage]

Oh yeah it's WAY smaller than petrobond grains lol. It's probably higher resolution than the resin can capture, which is higher resolution than even investment casting can capture. It's crazy

[@GeekDetour]

Very nice video, mate! You gave your perspective on it without repeating the things everyone already knows about it ❤ I agree with you: the tilt mechanism is the star of the show here. AND the resolution now will improve just surface quality/reflection/shininess (which is what we can expect going forward and it’s awesome) - because detail wise we already passed what naked eyes perceive.

[@nunyabusiness9043NunyaBiz]

All right, Paul! Well, more than all right, this my favorite review/opinion piece of this printer: Very comprehensive, practical, and thoughtful analysis delivered with your inimitable, entertaining style. Thanks. After decades of following 3d printing even while I worked at a bronze foundry, I think this will be the first one I actually purchase, though the Saturn 4 Ultra is tempting with its tilt lid and larger print area, but I have very limited space.

[@Nazrac79]

It's great to see someone finally knowledge the fact that all these pixel sizes or resolution as they love to call it are very insignificant I produce really high quality models for my segment It's all automotive based but people ask what printer are you using and then when I tell them that I'm still running older printers they tell me that that's not possible I can't get that detail out of my fill in the blank new printer It's about settings what resin you use how good you are tuning it I do think this new generation of Elegoo printers is going to make a huge difference unfortunately I have well over a thousand pre-size files in 28 resin printers making the switch would be well very expensive and very time consuming I did buy a couple of Saturn for Ultras to replace them really old original Saturns Yes I still run original Saturns and make great bottles on them but finally someone who's going to acknowledge that all these advancements and resolution are not what we need to focus on

[@iSam3000]

Made an aluminium bronze D20 last week! Things are going well so far

[@PaulsGarage]

That's so cool! Got any pictures of it?

[@iSam3000]

@@PaulsGarageI’d love to email you or something, I don’t have any socials unfortunately, best way to live

[@Four9sFineJewelry]

Mars has always been, in my opinion, the best bang-for-buck you can get. I loved my Mars 2 Ultra (for jewelry making) and really haven’t looked I buying a new one… until now.

[@PaulsGarage]

I'm surprised how cheap this one is considering how good it is. I was expecting 4 hundred or more honestly

[@Four9sFineJewelry]

@@PaulsGarage I think they could easily too, charge that much. I’ve been watching you off and on for about 5 years - you should most definitely make more printing review/use videos. You helped me to build my first furnace 4 years ago and greatly appreciate you and your sense of humor.

[@abhijitmondal3052]

Due to shrinkage issue in my Mars 4 ultra i increased x y compensation in chitubox but it's not working pl help

[@StripeyType]

I'm still rockin' my O.G. Mars, and it still works fine* but I would indeed like some of the features you mention here - especially if the peeling motion of the bed helps those finicky burnout resins, like you surmise. I'm not working out of a garage, instead it's a basement, but the seasonal issues you describe definitely come into play (enough that I've thought about putting this whole damn thing in an insulated box - the better to pull the vapors through a filter.) ETA: well dang! I hadn't looked at the price when I first hit "post." So yeah, this thing looks pretty cool. Am I gonna go drop the cash on it tomorrow? IDK, probably not. With all the whiz-bang they packed into this thing, the things I figure we all know we need for resin printing now are fume extraction and a heated vat. Like, not even *hot* just consistently around 21 or 22 C (70-ish F) Sitting the bottle of resin in warm water before I shake it all up and put it into the printer sucks, but it works well enough that until and unless one of these comes out with the fume extraction setup (not these goofy charcoal filters inside the chamber that are too small to actually do anything) and a heated vat at a price point that realistically aligns with the O.G. Mars ($135?)+ An extraction port ($??? cents? Call it $15) + a terrarium heater($25) with a IDK one-third price bump to reflect all the whiz-bang.... So like $225? Heck, I'd go $300 if the damn thing used a file format that wasn't a goofy proprietary thing from chitusystems. I dunno. Maybe I'm getting too old and grouchy. The printer itself winds up being just one part of what's needed for the whole process. You don't *technically* need a wash and cure station, but consumables-wise you've gotta figure in the cost of isopropyl alcohol, all the blue shop wipes, all the gloves... I love the results! I'm just not crazy about the state of the hobby art with regards to the process and the supporting logistics. My Prusa i3 Mk3S+ on the other hand is basically fire and forget. As long as the filament is kept bone dry, everything's great. If the filament starts acting up, I put it in the food dehydrator overnight and try again in the morning and everything's golden. I don't need gloves or alcohol and with Octoprint set up I can just send a file almost like I would to a 2D paper printer. The trade off there of course is resolution, print times, and residue in burn-out.

[@AlwaysCensored-xp1be]

It seems to impress most who have used it. But down here in Oz I am having cold issues this winter with my Anycubic Mono 2. Heated enclosure will be needed. Faster is better when iterating fine tolerance engineering prints for motorised models.

[@PaulsGarage]

Makes sense for iteration, and sorry to hear about the cold. It's pretty hot here but 6 months from now I'm going to be running enclosure heaters or heated vat printers. I'm surprised how big of a difference just 10 degrees makes

[@NickSpirov]

It seems to me there's plenty of room inside to put a DIY or third-party heater. Even before I made my heater, I had great success in the cold by just putting a small space heater next to the printer (Saturn). A small thermometer inside is all you really need.

[@PaulsGarage]

@NickSpirov I've heard that works well, or even putting it all in a cheap plastic grow tent or something. My garage has a heater so I sometimes use that but heating a whole garage for 200ml of resin seems excessive

[@Immolate62]

Check out once in a six side's video on using a $12 heating band with this printer which kept the printer nice and toasty. This will work with any printer that uses a vat.

[@NickSpirov]

@@Immolate62 not true, it doesn't work for any tilting vat printer like the Ultra. The vat wants to sink down and the belt will stop it.

[@Nazrac79]

Another side note you can make your own heater relatively cheaply for any resin printer that uses a metal fat I print rubber resin which is very finicky in fact there's a good chance that I'm going to use my Saturn Force to do rubber resin point being you can take some polymide heating strips that are adhesive and stick them to the vet get yourself a variable power supply or you want to get really fancy you can hook up a PID controller with a sensor attached to the fat or in the resin and turn your heaters on and off I have mine set for a certain voltage that maintains it right at the 25 to 27c that I need even with the motion it uses a very flexible silicone wire You could just make sure that it doesn't get caught up in the mechanism pretty easily. But I am a little surprised that they did not do something like this other than eligu likes to say that their printers are affordable which they are

[@zacharykarr]

I was waiting to see if you mentioned how the top came off as that was one of your comments on other printers

[@PaulsGarage]

It's a lift off lid like the other Mars printers. Not ideal but at least it isn't big. All the plugs are on the side too

[@hanelyp1]

My first question for any 3D printer: what slicers support it? And does at least one of those slicers have first order support for my operating system of choice, linux?

[@alanp3334]

Probably should have figured that the light source would need a heatsink. If the price is right, I might have to look into one of these, as I'd be more comfortable with leaving it running than I am my FDM printer.

[@LordNerfherder]

Is 7 inches average or pretty ok?

[@janineharris3601]

can you use this in a small apartment . do i need to be wearing mask

[@krispockell685]

I've always been too scared to take the plunge into resin, but I have also always wanted to get into casting (and already have a forge)... insert meme of guy pressing 2 buttons here.

[@PaulsGarage]

Haha why not both! Resin printing is way easier to get into than forging or casting, give it a shot

[@HaveAGoAlan]

Paul, you're a fan of the Adeptus Sororitas, then? :) I like the Adeptus Mechanicus, myself.

[@PaulsGarage]

You know I've never played a game of Warhammer, these are for One Page Rules (much simpler for my tiny mind). If I did try 40k, I would probably go Tau or Imperual Guard.

[@johnhinkey5336]

Ah, it doesn't auto level, it auto-zeros the build plate. It comes pre-leveled from the factory.

[@TheDistur]

That's pretty slick. Hopefully it stays trouble free as it gets some use.

[@PaulsGarage]

I hope so too. My old elegoo printer has been trouble free so far, hope this one is the same

[@sameerh.mohamed7913]

i'm hesitation between the mars 5 and the creality halot mage S?? very confusing

[@PaulsGarage]

If what you want to print fits on the mars 5 ultra, I would buy that one. If you want to print stuff that's too big, definitely the halot mage. I have a mage and this ultra, they both have their place for sure

[@sameerh.mohamed7913]

@@PaulsGarage some jewellry pieces are my target. the creality halot mage s is 14k??

[@TheMissingSockz]

I'm so sad that Elegoo dropped the DLP variant for the Mars 5. Love my mars 4 dlp, but I'd love it more with the mars 5 enclosure and tilting vat.

[@PaulsGarage]

They dropped the DLP? I didn't know that. I wish they continued developing it.

[@TheMissingSockz]

@@PaulsGarage It appears so at least, I've heard nothing about any new DLP versions for the mars 5 line and for like the last 6 month elegoo wasn't restocking any consumables like fep and basins for the mars 4 dlp, but it seems like thats finally changing as the basin is avalible again. My only remaining hope is they are gonna roll the DLP tech into a new line of printers or are skipping a generation due to the fact DLP printers have such a longer life cycle.

[@amandahugankiss4110]

anything with a lot of surface area would cause audible pops when the film released between each layer. you could feel it distinctly if you were touching the machine. caused all kinds of distortion. as in, couldn't print functional gears or sprockets. anything light-weight and airy would be fine. wonder if this makes a difference.

[@babbagebrassworks4278]

I have printed gears down to Mod0.2, but Mod0.3 will probably be the minimum till I can test Tough resin.

[@zncon]

Seems like a good situation to print with a upward tilt of the gear, and just have the stick out supported. Would add height and print time, but at least you'd have a working result.

[@justinchamberlin4195]

Resin printing technology seems to have leapt ahead even faster than FDM printing technology. My Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K is only two years old, sold for the exact same price, and is frankly pretty far behind in terms of features. It's a nice printer, it's done well for me and I do so relatively little resin printing that I don't feel an urge to upgrade, but man...by the time I'm ready to sell the Sonic on eBay and buy a new resin printer, we'll probably have heated vats and maybe even fancier features (like you see from HeyGears or Formlabs) for a similar price point. It'll be interesting to see how this fares against your UniFormation printer when the temperatures start dropping. Especially if you can find a reasonably-priced aftermarket bed heater for the Mars 5 Ultra.

[@acasccseea4434]

Please!!! Try printing a clear lens!! I need to find a printer to print lenses, and the less sanding i need to do before gloss spray, The more delicate my caustics sculpture can be.

[@tomyocom5886]

6 seconds , little more than twice as fast as my DLP at 14 seconds.