Ferguson FE35 Grey and Gold Restoration Part 22, Fitting an Alternator

[@buddyletendre]

Thank you, This was a lot of help. Everything I have found as to mounting an alternator was using a cheap “H” style bracket. My generator had a different mount than your tractor, but much closer than that of all the others I’ve seen. I don’t know if my tractor had a homemade bracket made up for it or what. But this has given me plenty of ideas on how to make the mounts work. Thanks! Love your channel!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@johnkinnane547]

Bloody nice bit of kit for her, a hell of a lot better good one Lance regards John

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks John, Came out nice in the end.

[@steveo3037]

Lance, the Multi-Meter digital is more sensitive to voltage changes and will be getting feedback from the Ignition Coil dumping high voltages back into your electrical system, especially when the load on the alternator is very light, i.e. charged battery or no auxiliary loads. In the old days and the coils were 9 Volt and there was a 1.5 Ohm ballast resistor in series with the Ignition Coil which would protect the coil from over voltage/current and the electrical system from back feeding high voltages.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Steve, I wasnt sure why it was acting like that.

[@transliv03]

Hi Lance. I was a bit surprised that the BareCo kit needed so much adjustment. Surely if they are selling all parts of the kit together, they would be a good fit. Great to see Goldy getting ready for a run. All the best, Tony.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes I have been talking to them about it and sending a link to the video. Not all that straight forward on my 35.

[@charleshart6992]

Sounds great!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yeah works well too.

[@waylandlewen5521]

This is may help solve your electrical problem it comes from an article titled "Recommendations for 12 Volt Conversions" by Genesee Products:[The coil is the only component of the ignition system affected when converting from 6 to 12 volts. Like the ammeter, the wires on the coil must be reversed. This means the negative (-) terminal of the coil is the one that connects to the distributor, while the positive (+) terminal connects to the ignition switch. Also, for the system to operate properly, the coil must also have the correct resistance value for use with 12 volts. Since there are several ways to accomplish this, there seems to be considerable confusion surrounding coil selection. Most of the confusion comes in when referring to “6 volt” coils versus “12 volt “ coils and the accompanying ballast resistor that is sometimes used. The important point to remember is:The total resistance of the coil plus any external resistor (if used) should be 2.7 to 3.3 ohms for a 12 volt system. This level of resistance will maintain the correct voltage and amperage in the ignition circuit. Coil resistance is measured between the plus (+) and minus (-) terminals.Most original equipment 6 volt coils are about 1.2 ohms, while most original equipment 12 volt coils are about 1.5 ohms. In order to get to the 2.7 to 3.3 ohm requirement, a ballast resistor such as a Napa ICR13 (Approx. 1.8 ohm) can be added to these type coils. Another approach is to eliminate the ballast resistor altogether by using a replacement coil with 3.0 ohms of resistance. Two commonly available 3 ohm coils are the Napa IC14 and the Pertronix High Voltage 40511.]

[@BundyBearsShed]

thanks Waylan, This tractor has always been a 12 volt machine and negative earth for a long time now as well and we also have been running an electronic negative earth distributor. . The coil has a built in resistor and has tested well. The alternator charges and works well with an analogue meter.

[@debbiearmitage575]

Wayland Lewen hyg

[@gulabkeerio1930]

good job

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@aaronjonthedon]

Hey Mate! Are you able to post a photo of the instruction manual in the comments? Also one for the 12 electronic ignition if you have it? I’ve recently bought a FE35 from a fella and he has fitted the bare co alternator and the electronic ignition and I’m having nothing but trouble with it failing the pick up coils in the dizzy. So any wiring diagrams or instructions for those kits would be a lifesaver so I can work out where he has gone wrong with it. Thanks !!

[@BundyBearsShed]

There is some heat sink paste you need for under the ignition pick ups way back they failed and the heat sink paste fixed the problem. Must be neg earth as well.

[@aaronjonthedon]

@@BundyBearsShed it has the paste I even got some new paste and reapplied and it’s still happening

[@ozbennett]

Hi Lance, just wondering if you have a tachometer on your tractor - I thought they ran off the generator, others say distributor. Can't find much info. Mine is a 57 gold and grey and I would like to add but not sure what I need. Any ideas?

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Rob, Mine does not have the tach at present but I have one organised to go on it. The TE20 tractors had it from the generator but when the 35 came out the drive was from under the distributor.

[@Ausblack]

Better leaving that spring washer off, they're pointless

[@BundyBearsShed]

Probably.

[@ShainAndrews]

DVM take a dump?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Aparently voltage from the coil feeds up.

[@frankdeegan8974]

Digital meters suck !!!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yep.