Festool TS 55 REQ Plunge Cut Track Saw - Episode 9

It's time for the corded version of the Festool in Episode 9 of our plunge saw season. According to Festool, the TS 55 REQ is the best plunge-cut saw they've ever built, let's see.
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Info from Festool.
Circular saw TS 55 REQ-Plus GB 110V
One excellent feature is the ultra-flat and, thanks to the inward-pointing extractor connector, completely flat housing. With no body, it is possible to saw close to the edges with a minimum 12 mm wall spacing. Available with a viewing window or splinter guard, the TS 55 R gives you even more control and perfect results. Another key feature is the newly developed spacer wedge. It stands out in front of the saw blade, provides safety and guarantees precise positioning in existing saw cuts.
Optimum cutting quality
For high-quality working results: The guide rail guarantees clean, splinter-free cuts. The TS 55 R is fitted with guide jaws that do not require tools to be adjusted, in order to enable the saw to operate without any inaccuracy.
More safety, more comfort
The spring-loaded guide wedge runs in front of the saw blade to prevent it from jamming and makes it easier to insert the blade in existing joints.
Exact depth setting
Easy to read and adjust: The dual cutting depth scale for working with or without a guide rail. With extra-large font and fine adjustment feature to perform accurate-plunge cuts.
Splinter-free sawing on both sides
With the clip-on splinter guard in combination with the guide rail it is even possible to saw on both sides without splinters. Advantage: No rework and considerably less workpiece waste.
FastFix saw blade changing system
Work adapted to the material. The FastFix spindle stop makes it extremely easy to change the saw blade in no time at all. This way, you are always working with the right saw blade and sawing at a speed adapted to the material.
MMC electronics
Perfect adaptation to the working material, controlled speed and temperature monitoring. The quick-acting brake improves safety by stopping the saw blade in seconds.
Scribe mark = cut
Exact cuts, even at an angle. The TS 55 makes the actual cut right on the edge of the scribe line, even at an angle.
Cutting angle
The angles 0° and 45° can be selected directly using the locking positions. Undercuts from -1° to 47° are also possible with the extended adjustment option.
• Precise circular in materials up to 55 mm thick
• Minimal distance from the wall (12 mm) due to flat housing
• Even more precise thanks to angle setting with snap-in points and indentation (-1° and/or 47°)
• Guide wedge for safer work and simple positioning in existing joint
• Sliding viewing window provides a good view of the scribe mark and saw blade
#Festool #powertools #woodworking
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[@georgethompson997]

For its intended purpose this is a great saw. You could argue for more power on the 110v, but as an all round machine, considering price, quality and warranty, it's hard to beat. For 99% of use there's no issue with power output; for heavier work just use a couple of passes. In terms of longevity, I can say my original machine from 2002 is still going strong. I used it for 11 years and then passed it to my brother where it's used daily cutting fibre-glass; nothing is more abrasive, but the TS55 still goes strong. To me this illustrate the real quality of Festool , they're not fancy tools to look at as some people think; there's real durability in Festool products. Thanks Robin for highlighting the issues with the T-Loc systainers. A backwards step in my opinion from the original systainers. I think criticism of Robin as being a Festool Fan is unfair; when you've used the TS55 saw for a longtime you do appreciate its quality.

[@benchippy8039]

I’m with you here roger, £800 or more for a comprehensive kit you would expect near market leading power, if I can rip 2” sawn with a 18v makita I’d expect 110v festool to glide thru. Regardless of that, I’d still happily except any tool that they make but would likely spend my hard earned elsewhere on this one. Thanks for the increased video output, I know it’s time consuming 👍

[@scottjohnson3226]

Thanks for another great review! Currently, I am leaning towards the Mafell MT 55 CC, with the Bosch GKT13-225L for second consideration, and the Festool TS75 as a third.

[@SKraus-pb1ii]

Thanks for your fine & interesting reviews, really enjoying them :)

[@Ripper36068]

I like my Festool TS 55! I've never had any problems with it at all!

[@goodall1bay]

I'm so glad I bought the Mafell .

[@Goodwithwood69]

I've had a makita and now a festool track saw, not much in it really, but the festool is more accurate! Less burn and more solid!

[@superiorbeing95]

I bought a cheapo track saw off the back of these videos, fitted an 80T blade and it's a big improvement over the old circular saw I had. The amount of stuff I do doesn't warrant a Festool, I waited til changing the blade before making the first cut through the rubber edge for the reasons they mentioned and could only find 160mm and 164mm blade so depth guide needs extra but no big problem.

[@warrensmith2902]

It's part of a whole system for making cabinets. Works really well for what it does. Here in the states I've been using my REQ since they released it with a MFT/3 hot had a bit of a problem. But if integration is not an issue for you pick up something else.

[@zapbrannigan9770]

I’m on my second ts55 req. I’m getting a Mafell next time! Definitely under powered! The blade matters a lot but it does do an excellent cut.

[@Filmchippy]

I love Festool stuff and the ts55 was my first purchase many years ago. Last year I bought the Mafell mt55 and it's better. I can cut 40mm worktop in one pass, cut kitchen panels with no chipping, etc etc. I've kept the TS55R and use it in the CMS unit.

[@MT_T991]

As an aside i recently bought a flexvolt dcs576 because it will run on rails that saw has the same power as a mains powered tool and will cut vaneered timber flawlessly on the track whilst still be used as a normal circular saw, which means I only need one saw onsite. Not my usual 110v framing saw, plunge saw and cordless saw. Truly superb machine. Only down sides by comparison to a plunge saw is *no spring back plunge. Though it will plunge on the track but not as easy. But I've never made a plunge cut that need to be perfect. * Extraction isn't great but not terrible. Definitely stops most of the dust

[@TRYLIKTO]

To trim oak wood door I tried a jigsaw, was a mistake. Other tool that I had is Milwaukee 12v circular saw, it was eating it with a eas. Even timber with nails, blade was still giving good finish

[@WelshRabbit]

I passionately love my Festool TS 75 -- with one exception. The adhesive Festool uses to stick the vinyl splinter guard to the rail track is seriously crapola. The glue fails after a short period of time and the splinter guard starts to peel loose thus making it no long accurate for cutting with normal Festool precision. If Festool could figure out a good adhesive that would firmly keep the splinter guard in place until it's time to replace it, I'd say their track saw had achieved near perfection. By the way, I have never had a problem with Makita's track splinter guard coming off.

[@TheNottonight]

I have the Dewalt and love it I don’t think if I spent 3 to 4 times the amount on a festool the cut would be any different.

[@wmurphy1979]

I really find its the blade u use for the application in hand if your doing deep cuts on hardwood less teeth and they really must be at there sharpest and I understand the underpowered thing but these saw are very smart with an overheating sensor at the copper windings so when she goes onto slow mode or protect mode it's just helping u not to destroy a very expensive tool .what I'm getting at is it will outlast all other contenders .

[@ThePhilandPam]

Looks a decent bit of kit and well designed but would have liked a lock on facility, a bit on the pricey side for me though, thanks for sharing 👍

[@superiorbeing95]

REQ= Really Expensive Quipment.

[@gregdobson6452]

I have the cordless version , and it really struggles , if you are too lazy to change the blade for the RIP 36 Tooth . Also watch your speeds . When used correctly the Festool is a great saw . However when she dies , I will go back to a 240v version . There is no fault with the saw , It's just that we know what we should be doing but can't be bothered , we just want to get the job done . I asked Roger about my problems when I first got the saw , and he said he is not a Fan of cordless C Saws and now I have to agree with him .

[@MT_T991]

In realtion to an rcd that will not limit current through your body so you can't rely on it preventing you being cooked. 110v center tap to earth as we use means 55v either side of ground which unless wet won't go far through the body so almost harmless Other factors apply

[@mrfairbrassful]

With regards to the 110v or 240 v comments I've found that tools last longer when using 110v.

[@jonesconrad1]

I wired my 110v chopsaw up on a 240v plug once as I didn't have a transformer to hand, got away with it, did a few mitre cuts (architrave iirc) i never dared do it again though.

[@ALFABETAS999]

11:57 yea thats a good point. UK need to fix there power grid xD

[@derrycoleman4837]

240 and 110v plugits are different. 110v Festools are all under powered if you run them on a 3.5kva transformer, try them on a 5kva one. Thanks for the video’s, keep them coming.

[@Largeone1968]

That’s the solution but some moan about the additional weight of a 5kva transformer. Not my problem as I’ve the 230v and love it.

[@ukconstruction]

Thanks for the tip Ferry!

[@ukconstruction]

Sorry Derry! Predictive text meets bad eyesight!

[@anthonyharper5954]

Aye 110’s the issue. I’ve got the 240 and my fellow chippy doesn’t even get his 110 out of the van, just uses mine as it so much more powerful

[@derrycoleman4837]

That’s ok Robin, I’ve been called worse. 240v Festool is miles better than 110v stuff, other manufactures don’t have that problem. I’ve gone mostly cordless now, saves lugging around a transformer.

[@TheBuilderdad]

"YA'ya! It wouldn't do it much good." Classic comment

[@GK-fq3cy]

In Australia it's 240 on sites , with RCD on electric leads outlet

[@darrenjowett8032]

The plug it leads are different. I have a USA jigsaw and it wont fit my UK 110v TS 55

[@karlkjj]

Fitting is different on 240v to the 110v so you can’t plug in the wrong lead

[@eugeneeugene8252]

I have cut worktops,fire doors,hard wood doors no problems.You do feel it needs to work a bit harder

[@thulegezelschap5884]

I’m buying a tracksaw next week I think I will go Makita but am also open to Bosch. I do not like Festool, they feel overpriced for what they do.. this review solidifies that for me. Really can’t choose between the Makita and the Bosch though I own more Makita than bosch stuff atm

[@SkillBuilder]

Apart from the wonky plate which we now know is an easy fix, the Bosch is almost up there with the Mafell and has the power.

[@thulegezelschap5884]

Skill Builder so I guess it is going to be the Bosch then. I was afraid of the baseplate and the thin plastic mentioned in it’s review. I love your reviews so if you say Bosch over Makita in this one I will trust your advice :) Do those Bosch comtainers lock onto the Makita ones btw as they look so similar in the video.

[@willford8475]

I have never used a track saw. As you cut a piece of stock, why doesn't the saw blade cut into the top, even if just slightly?

[@dennysmith2291]

To expensive .But I guess you get what you pay for. Good video boys

[@darrenjowett8032]

Are you using a 3.3 kva transformer. Extension leads need to be descent not coiled up.

[@hartsymk1]

il be honest iv got a dewalt cordless flexvolt plungesaw and i can trim oak doors in one pass, id rather have that then lug a transformer about and not have equivalent power

[@plunder1956]

I use a Bocsh myself; which works quite well for me. But I have a question. Where do you get blades sharpened?

[@SkillBuilder]

Any good tool shop

[@Jcoughlan]

Every season is plunge saw season!!

[@eegaugh]

Plus one for "fewer" as opposed to less!

[@SkillBuilder]

I love it. You are a man after my own heart

[@scottd2079]

Hi what plunge saw would you recommend for diy work

[@tomsmolik4511]

felas use wright extractor , particulary with 110v - ctl 22 is to small . If You have 240v not make diffrence

[@steve24822]

I don't know for sure but I bet the 110v version has protection from over voltage.

[@darrenmaloney761]

I cut through 40mm worktops on full depth of cut daily I've never had a issue with my TS 55.. I love your reviews guys but you seem to cut these a bit cack handed I use my left hand and I'm right handed it gives miles more control

[@SkillBuilder]

staying out of the way of the camera makes you work in unusual positions.

[@jerrygoodwin8397]

If you cut the track's rubber edge strip at 90 degrees, then you use the saw for a 45 degree cut, does it cut more off the edge strip and 'ruin' it for going back to 90 degree cuts? Or is it the case that at 45 degrees is the blade isn't right up against the edge strip? I guess I'm asking where the center point of rotation is with respect to the track.

[@SkillBuilder]

on some saws there is a compensation for that in the way the pivot point is set back. Don't ask me to explain it but it seems to work. I don't know about the Festool but the Maffel has it.

[@darraghtierneymtb2116]

what snickers does robin wear

[@piee683]

Any follow up on the Bosch saw that had a warped base ,I personally think it's a great saw ,did Bosch sort it out

[@SkillBuilder]

Bosch said "Thanks for a great review" and took the saw back. Nothing about the base.

[@hartsymk1]

@@SkillBuilder lol typical germans. its perfect!!

[@paalbugge]

This is the answer from Bosch, (in German) kzbin.info/www/bejne/aprTeaR4mMx3kKc = Mystery solved. Two individual knobs adjusting the cutting angel is not a brilliant idea, but as long as you are careful when tightening them (don't apply any pressure to the motor casing/handle ), the base remains flat.

[@RueFondary]

Interesting, if disappointing, review. Some comments on dust collection relative to others would be welcome (it doesn't look that great in the video, TBH).

[@markusstiepel7989]

9 months after this review, it's about time to stop playing with girls' toys (sorry for being racist, but seeing there are never any females on your videos, I guess I'm on the safe side ;-) ) and start testing the big boys. I work as a kitchen fitter and I never even bothered with the TS55 (well, maybe I did when I started back in 1991 since there was nothing else available ;-) ),. Instead, I've been using the TS75 which has no power issues at all, plus I have no hard time with 50 mm worktops which are quite common here in Germany to plunge in for sinks , hobs or downdraft hoods. Many people I have come across told me when getting a hold of this saw complained about the weight (and so have you, Robin!), but honestly, plunge saws are not intended to be used overhead free-cutting on a ceiling or a wall. You have them sitting there on a rail and just push them forward, the one or two kilos of weight are more than compensated by the power advantage the 75 has over the 55, and thus providing more precision. Point is: There are not too many >55 mm plungers out there, and since my good ole 75 is over 10 years old, I expect failure anytime now and would like to see you guys find and test them for me. OK, not only for me, but mainly for me. ;-) Sorry for my rusty english.

[@dt2419]

Markus Stiepel I currently have a TS75 and it’s a great saw, I have never had a problem with the weight and I’m only a teenager(the saw isn’t mine, my uncle is a cabinet maker and loaned it to me until I can afford my own). I really don’t understand why you’d get the TS55 unless it’s about money.

[@williammichaelcrockett2433]

Put the chipguard down and reduce dust by 90%

[@martinjp1]

There is no law about using 110v on sites it's just best practice, it would probably be safer to use 240v with a RCD.

[@GK-fq3cy]

So what if you have to do 2 passes. Do we remember old crap saws,, planes,, my god we got so lazy

[@danielspendley8202]

Roger just anit geting it I wouldn't try and cut any thing 55 mm thick in one pass you wouldn't do it with a router on a work top so why with the saw it's a great tool it just needs to be used properly rant over love the vids !

[@SkillBuilder]

Daniel if you are testing tools in a comparative test you have to test them in challenging situations in order to find their limitations. That is page one of the manual. The cheapest tracksaws such as the Erbauer and Triton have bigger motors and lower gearing and went through in one pass. If I had failed to point this out i would have been accused of favouring Festool. BTW it isn't a router. There are two cutting edges on a twin flute cutter and if you push that cutter through worktop in one pass you will burn it out, regardless of the motor so your comparison is, to say the least, tenuous.

[@danielspendley8202]

@@SkillBuilder I was just ranting I see what your saying your putting the tool at its Extreme use to see what it's got in the tank and that's a great test and video as all ways I enjoy the videos and I have a festool rail saw so needed a good review to justify me buying it lol! 👍 Cheers for the reply and konw it's not a router I was just using that as a example? As you take multiple passes like Rob was saying about the saw

[@DPJOINERY]

2nd place 😉

[@laggytim]

one big problem with it. its not cordless. no cables on sites

[@NicoSmets]

Festool offers a better blade for that kind of material.

[@tooslinamino]

That big nob on the side of the blade case means u can't cut too close to a wall

[@SkillBuilder]

You can take it off

[@TheShortCon]

Monkey on the wall at 03:04.

[@CP-du3ci]

Hi Guys. I tell you what, for all the hype about Festools dust control your demo showed a huge amount of dust ejected from the front edge of the cut. Are you sure you extractor is working correctly. My Makita is considerably better on dust control.

[@hartsymk1]

with all track saws if your only taking a blade widths off or less the dust is kicked off to the side, if you take more off leaving waste on one side of the blade the dust is channelled back up into the machine because it cannot go anywhere else.

[@CP-du3ci]

Hi Lewis, true but if you watch the demo all the cuts seem to throw out more dust than I would expect from the hype with Festool and all the cuts I picked up on were full cuts producing a solid piece of waste. This is not something I have seen on the demos of the other machines hence my comment.

[@hartsymk1]

@@CP-du3ci that would be down to the fact the green splinter guard was not fully depressed on the work surface thus leaving a space for the dust to escape. Using the tool incorrectly or not to its full potential will produce different results. I own a dewalt and a festool ts55 with the splinter guard properly applied it's will collect 99% of the dust.

[@CP-du3ci]

@@hartsymk1 Hi Lewis I'm not convinced that the guys had an effective dust extractor on this test. I don't have the TS55 I use a Makita and even with no extractor connected there is less dust coming from the front of the blade than can be seen on Rogers test. Maybe that should be a test criteria to see how effective unassisted dust collection is with these tools, after all it isn't always practical to connect a dust extractor when making a cut.

[@christianpetersen1782]

C P I agree. Its an important selling point. I would also like to see the boys give a score for each of the various features of these saws and a bit more of a specific value rating for each machine.

[@markmarlow]

Anyone else see the monkey face on the xtratherm

[@MT_T991]

2 or 3 passes to do a hardwood door. I'm sorry but that's underpowered. I dont get robins consistent defence of the festool. It's kinda cringy.

[@steve24822]

230v model goes through in one go.

[@christianpetersen1782]

Doesn’t 110v mean either double the amps used or half the wattage of a 240v unit? Would be interesting to compare the power specs from each machine’s manual.

[@craigwalsh1403]

Why the monkey in the stud work ??

[@brackenhirst3512]

craig walsh they hide one in every video

[@thegreenman4898]

its definately an excellent saw, but how they have the gall to charge 145 quid for an extractor hose is beyond me, do yourself a favour, get a rubber hose adapter for 5 or 6 quid from amazon and use your own hose

[@SkillBuilder]

Anti static plastic on the Festool.

[@powderpuff1964]

240volt mains will work fine run oak full length a any 110 volt is not that powerfull

[@MT_T991]

No reason for that though. Should be same power Watts just draw more current.

[@christianpetersen1782]

The specs from Festool UK website states that both 240v and 110v are 1200watts. Then what’s the spec of the 240v that makes it more powerful?

[@powderpuff1964]

ive used both 240 volt seems more powerfull don't know why @@MT_T991

[@martinjp1]

There is no law about using 110v on sites it's just best practice, it would probably be safer to use 240v with a RCD.