Clamp Knurling Tool, Case Hardening the Steel Parts

[@johnfry9010]

Finally at 64 yr's of age I have learned how to Case harden a part , amazing , Thanks Tom !

[@TomsTechniques]

+John Fry Thanks for watching, John. Tom

[@bobandres5559]

Thanks Tom, thought u had stopped vids so i stop looking. Used your hss sharpening vids for a project this summer worked like a charm. Glad to hear your still going to help us newbs out.

[@TomsTechniques]

Good to hear, Bob.

[@John-of5sh]

Once again Sir, Thank You! Your furnace idea is the BOMB! Yankee ingenuity at its finest!!! John Archer

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks John. It could have used a bit more forced air, but it got the job done.

[@gilelicyd]

Once again Tom thank you very much for another great video,not a word wasted,but everything covered. Every video a winner.

[@TomsTechniques]

+gilelicyd Thanks for watching.

[@SlowEarl1]

Thanks for showing alternatives to getting a job done even knowing you could of just of stuck it in your electric furnace .A good Craftsmen has to get creative with his set ups to get a job done on a machine or any other place. These things separate a true Craftsmen from operators .Thanks for doing what you do.

[@TomsTechniques]

+SlowEarl1 Thanks Earl

[@glennfelpel9785]

Absolutely excellent demonstration. Thank you for showing us ways of doing his without the fancy equipment. The creativity of your efforts is to what I admire. This process has been a mistery to me. Thanks for showing us " Tom's Techniques" : )

[@TomsTechniques]

+Glenn Felpel Thanks for watching, Glenn.

[@oppanheimer]

You take the time to share your knowledge with us. Thanks so much Tom, I have learnt a lot from you.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thank you for watching. Tom

[@buildsomethin]

Just started to view your videos and am finding them very informative and practical. Great work. Cheers Richard

[@TomsTechniques]

+buildsomethin Thanks Richard and welcome aboard! Tom

[@par4par72]

Tom I used to use Rebar wire to close and capture the pocket for dunkin' . This way you don't have to go fishing' for the part in a high heat oven.

[@TomsTechniques]

+par4par72 Thanks, that's a good idea. Tom

[@josephp.polnaszek9134]

Hi Tom, Nice video on low buck down and dirty case hardening. Keep'em coming. Joe

[@TomsTechniques]

+Joseph P. Polnaszek Thanks Joe

[@imysteryman]

I know why I subscribed to your channel and you just reaffirmed it yet again, thanks! John Fink

[@TomsTechniques]

+imystery man Thanks for watching, John.

[@istvangaspar8257]

Tom, Thank you very much being such a nice gentleman teaching all of us hobby machinists. Maybe I will buy some 4041 tool steel and remake the bracket.I rely enjoy watching all your videos and learned a lot from you.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Istvan Gaspar You must mean 4140. That would be overkill for the mounting bracket, but it would definitely work. You would need to add corner radii to all of the inside corners on the part to keep it from cracking during heat treat. It would need to be heated to the same temperature as for case hardening, but without the carburizing compound, since 4140 has enough carbon in it already. After 30 minutes or so at temp, it would need to be quenched in oil and then because it is so hard (56-59Rc), immediately tempered at about 600ºF to reduce the hardness (47Rc) and make it more tough. Case hardened mild steel is a much better material for that part because it is inexpensive, and easy to machine and heat treat. Tom

[@istvangaspar8257]

+Toms Techniques Tom I will follow your recommendation and remake the mounting bracket from mild steel. Thanks for your help and guidance.

[@pierresgarage2687]

So far I've only done lots of hardening using curable alloys, I'll have to try case hardening sooner or later. Last project that went to KZbin is a 0 to 2" knurling tool, 4 of them kits went to Keith Fenner's giveaway, this was an interesting project, the team had fun building it... Thanks for video

[@bendavanza]

Nice how-to and cool follow up, I'd like to see how the parts look after you brushed them.

[@TomsTechniques]

+bendavanza Thanks. As soon as I pick up the hardware, I'll do a video on the assembly and use of the tool. Tom

[@eleventeenmachine5991]

That's great. I wish I saw this back when you made it. I have an ingersoll 6018 mini loader backhoe that I've been restoring. I made a few over size pins for it but never knew I could case harden or "carberize"? something that easy. Thanks!

[@TomsTechniques]

Case hardening is pretty easy because the temps are not that critical and you don't need to temper the part, as opposed to through hardening.

[@RalphRotten54]

Think I just figured out the proper use of the "stainless heat treat bags" in various supplier catalogs. Nice demo and thanks for sharing.

[@TomsTechniques]

+RlfRottn Thanks for watching

[@peterbaynes5804]

As always Tom a very informative and educational video... I really appreciate seeing some practical options to work around the need for specialised equipment for one off or small batch jobs. Nice trucks too :)

[@petew1626]

Subscribed to your channel because of AvE's recommendation. Just picked up a seasoned Chevelier mill, and hope to begin using it soon.

[@TomsTechniques]

AvE? I have not used a Chevelier mill, but it looks to be a beefed up version of the Bridgeport. Tom

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Excellent instructional video as usual. I intend to make one of those pinch type knurling tools at some point in the future.

[@453421abcdefg12345]

+Toms Techniques : Yes they do work very well, giving a good knurl without loading your head bearings!

[@Waffenschmiedinx]

another awesome video Tom. love the quick furnace :)

[@TomsTechniques]

+Waffenschmiedin x Thanks. It's amazing how much energy is available from charcoal. Tom

[@shawnlund]

Thanks Tom, I understood most of the process but seeing it done makes it all come together nicely. I'll be ordering some kasenit shortly and begin searching for a small heat treat oven.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Shawn Lund Thanks Shawn. Kasenit may not be available any more, but there are other brands. Tom

[@dangrundel]

That foil parcel is a good idea. I tried case hardening once a while ago and welded together a stout canister, saled the lid on with fire cement (couldn't find fire clay), and was so caught up in juggling several tasks I forgot to leave a gap in the fire cement for any gasses to escape. The lid burst off after a while, right as my face was above the thing, and it ejected the contents out. Extremely lucky it'd only gotten warm, and also lucky the lid itself didn't hit me. I've been thinking about trying case hardening again for another project, but from what i've read it's very hard to get the 'good' kasenit type powder any more since they've changed the formula to be less toxic, with the main difference being that it doesn't stick to parts as well. So I was concerned about excessive scaling and not getting a thick case, but I also don't particularly want to go back to the sealed canister method. So yeah that foil thing with the kasenit powder seems like a great method. Thanks for making this video!

[@TomsTechniques]

+Simon Heslop I've used foil before and it works very well. The stuff I used this time burned through and I've never had that happen. Next time I'll use actual tool wrap and not the craft variety of foil. Pack carburization doesn't require a compound that sticks. It can be done with any carbon containing material, such as charcoal, sawdust, bone and leather. I just keep this stuff on hand because it's a quick way to do small parts with a torch. Tom

[@Keith_Ward]

+Toms Techniques I think I had read somewhere about wrapping the parts twice in stainless foil helps prevent blowouts and lost parts.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Keith Ward Yes, that would help. Or use wrap intended for tooling instead of the craft stuff that I tried. :) Tom

[@453421abcdefg12345]

+Simon Heslop : Yes the Kasenit powder formular has been changed, I think they have reduced the Cyanide content, I don't know where you live, but there is an equivalent now available in UK.

[@duobob]

+Englishman French I have a can of Kasenit I bought at least 30 years ago. On the label it says it nitriides and carburizes. There are stern warnings on the label. I have only used it on tiny parts using a propane torch, but it works well.

[@michaelhale4041]

I love that. I wanted to know how that was done. Great video. Thank you

[@DrippDroppz]

Hey Tom, I'm currently a senior in High school taking up Manufacturing and this is my last year being in the tech school. Every year if there was something new I wanted to add to my skills I would come on to your channel and look for something new to take up on the trade. Love the videos you put up on youtube and really do appreciate the time you put into them as well. I want to try and achieve my toolmaker's license as I feel it might benefit me a lot for the future. I have had the opportunity to work as an intern at Sikorsky in CT and I feel there's much more to machining that I can learn and maybe after earning my toolmaker's license, I may go for industrial management or mechanical engineering. But again Thank you for providing some grade-a machining videos and looking forward to more! -Eric

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks for watching, Eric. I wish you well in your endeavors. Tom

[@stxrynn]

I really liked the method. I'll keep this in the toolbox for the next time I need it. Thanks!

[@TomsTechniques]

+stxrynn Thanks for watching

[@Fredruiz622]

Tom, really nice demonstration! Thanks!

[@patrickcraig6032]

Tom,thanks,always learn from your videos.Haven't done any case hardening since 8th grade metal shop in the early 60's.Got to give it a try.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Patrick Craig Thanks for watching

[@dougankrum3328]

+Patrick Craig ...Yeah...same here...8th grade metal shop...1960.....used the same brand of compound too...

[@shadowdog500]

Excellent Video!!! I may copy your home made charcoal oven to harden some tool steel I have. Thanks, Chris

[@TomsTechniques]

+shadowdog500 Thanks Chris

[@tombellus8986]

Tom thanks for a great lesson in case hardening enjoyed

[@TomsTechniques]

+Tom Bellus Thanks for watching

[@bluegrassengineer]

Outstanding demonstration! Now I know that I can do it.

[@TomsTechniques]

+bluegrassengineer Thanks

[@jeffreypfeifer862]

Nice work Tom... I've got some fire brick on hand so will give this a try! Jeff P

[@TomsTechniques]

+Jeffrey Pfeifer Thanks Jeff

[@tom7601]

If you just put the hot natal in water without moving it around, the hot metal will turn the water to steam that insulates the part and slows the temperature drop. Moving it around cools it much faster.

[@TomsTechniques]

+tom7601 Yes, I mentioned that in the video. Swirling it in a figure eight motion is most effective. Tom

[@tom7601]

+Toms Techniques: Just explaining the physics, steam, insulating, etc.. :)

[@TomsTechniques]

+tom7601 Got it. :) Thanks for watching. Tom

[@mckenziekeith7434]

Do you think this basic setup could be used for heat treating? What I mean is, if you put a thermocouple in there, could you maintain a somewhat constant temperature by adjusting the airflow?

[@TomsTechniques]

+McKenzie Keith It would be difficult to maintain a steady temperature because you are basically working with a fixed charge of fuel. Temperature fluctuations don't matter with case hardening, as long as the part is hot enough at the end of the process when it's time to quench. Tom

[@westweld]

Hey Tom I just finished all the parts and I'm going to start case hardening I was wondering if I use a oxy acetylene torch how long should I cook it seems like it going to get very hot

[@westweld]

I forgot to add......... do I need to worry about tdd getting too hot and causing alot of distortion

[@TomsTechniques]

It's gonna be tough with an oxy-acetylene torch, because the heat is so concentrated. It would help to use a rosebud tip if you have one, or surround the part with firebrick to hold the heat. On average, a red hot part will aborb carbon at the rate of a few thousandths per hour.

[@453421abcdefg12345]

This is the most interesting world workshop video I have seen for a long time ! The only thing that did not seem right was that when you quenched the parts, you only got a small crack noise from the main body, I never feel happy about the hardness unless I hear that load crack, maybe your microphone did not pick it up ! The idea of using the fire bricks with charcoal is brilliant, I think you got just the right amount of airflow there, essential for a good burn, one thing I do is to make up a small welded casket sealed with fire clay, you can then dump the whole lot in the quench water very quickly. Many thanks for posting this, Chris.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Englishman French Thanks Chris. I think the sound depends on how the part enters the water. One of the knurl holders made a loud crack, but the other made no noise at all even though they were the same temp. The large bracket sent out a shock that I felt thru the tongs, but it wasn't loud at all. I have used metal boxes before and they work great. The foil is nice though because it adapts to whatever size part you need. Glad you enjoyed the video. Tom

[@littlestworkshop]

That was very interesting thanks. What about using little stainless tins/kitchen storage containers? The foil looks to be a bit of a pain.

[@TomsTechniques]

+littlestworkshop Thanks. Any steel or stainless container will work if it can be made relatively air tight. The problem with containers though is that they require a lot more compound, and the commercial stuff doesn't come cheap. Tom

[@littlestworkshop]

+Toms Techniques Thanks, I've just been discovering that trying to buy some, ouch.

[@TomsTechniques]

+littlestworkshop You may want to experiment with making your own. The commercial stuff has binders to make it stick to parts so they can be hardened with a torch. If you are going to pack carburize, anything with carbon in it will work. Charcoal, leather and bone are commonly used. Tom

[@littlestworkshop]

+Toms Techniques looks like even pure graphite powder is significantly less expensive and I assume somewhat reusable.

[@Keith_Ward]

Excellent details here Tom. I appreciated the temperatures as well as hardening depths in particular. I always liked the look of color case hardened parts but apparently this requires much tighter temperature control at a slightly lower temperature as well as the use of other additives. Supposedly this process does not harden to the same depth as just regular case hardening and is more for appearance.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Keith Ward The color case hardening procedure is pretty much the same as this, with the exception that the parts need to go from the package to the water with as little exposure to air as possible. A common way to accomplish this is to place the parts an the compound in an inverted box on a plate and drag the box off the edge of the plate right at the water's surface. I will be doing a color case on the receiver of my Steven's project and will make a video on it when the time comes. Tom

[@453421abcdefg12345]

+Toms Techniques : I certainly look forward to seeing that, a good air flow through the cold water through a fish tank brick makes a big difference, as does wrapping the part with soft iron wire to keep the bone charcoal in contact with the metal while it enters the cold water. Good luck, Chris.

[@rocklandkcorvic9408]

Nice work! i was just thinking about doing some case hardening . I have an assorment of 321 drops I'll weld into a small box and fire it up my propane tank coal furnace .

[@cbennett1218]

+Toms Techniques hope to see more of your videos. really enjoy you channel.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks William. I don't spend much time in the shop during the summer, but there will be more to come in the winter. Tom

[@bulletproofpepper2]

24 or 25 fire bricks? great video thanks for sharing. I think they put charcoal on super sale after 4th of July i will stock up on it. Thank for your time

[@johnkinnane547]

G'day Tom I found this video very interesting you explained it very well. In the future I might give this method ago. Bye the way they are very fine looking vehicles you have. Thanks again mate kind regards John

[@TomsTechniques]

+John Kinnane Thanks John. I'm glad you enjoyed it. The GMC belongs to my brother in law but the RAM diesel is all mine. :) Tom

[@Mr26Huffy]

Excellent video Tom. Just curious if one could heat up the parts with a torch and dunk them in oil. Or is that a different effect on the parts?

[@TomsTechniques]

+Mr26Huffy That only works for tool steel. Mild steel like this needs to be carburized before quenching. Thanks for watching. Tom

[@wallfly0131]

well done, great do it yourself demonstration. 👍

[@TomsTechniques]

+Vladimir Sukmeov Thanks

[@ksb2112]

Are those fire bricks the insulating type? I think they're also called soft bricks.

[@SeanBZA]

Extra layer of brick works better, more charcoal volume and longer burn. If you can get a bag of anthracite coal it works a whole lot better though, but has a very pungent smell as it starts. Gas torch makes an excellent fire starter though, from cold to red in under 2 minutes.

[@TomsTechniques]

+SeanBZA I tried extra layers and all it did was plug up with ash. This combination seemed to work best for me. Yes a torch would speed things up, but the whole idea of this video was to do it without a torch. Thanks for watching. Tom

[@BisonWorkshop]

nice job tom. now i know how im gonna melt my aluminum. good tip man.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Bison Workshop This will do it in small quantities. You'll just need a pad to set the crucible on.

[@BisonWorkshop]

thanks for the info. i have had all this aluminum for awhile to melt

[@mattpalmerchuck]

Love your videos! Where do you learn all of this stuff? I wish I was your neighbor so I could inconveniently drop by all the time just to soak in your intelligence and awesomeness! Question though, why was this method used as opposed to when you've just heated "homemade" screws with an oxy torch and quenched in motor oil?

[@TomsTechniques]

+Matthew Palmerchuck Hi Matthew, I've been doing this stuff since I learned to walk. My dad and my uncle have always been hands on guys who would rather do it themselves than hire it out, and some of that rubbed off on me. But most of the stuff like this I learned during a 23 year stint working as a research machinist for a DOD contractor. The screws for the carriage stop project were made of O1 tool steel which has enough carbon in it that it doesn't need to be carburized before heat treating. Tom

[@tedsykora1858]

good info. a good use I think would be when you simply don't have a chunk of metal the dimension you need in a material high in carbon to start with.

[@Fredruiz622]

Tom, what about making these parts in 4140 and then quenching in oil, will that work?

[@TomsTechniques]

+Fred Feliciano It'll work, but it's overkill. Mild steel is easier to machine and is half the cost. It will also require a radius on the inside corners so it won't crack and it will need to be tempered after hardening. Tom

[@Fredruiz622]

+Toms Techniques Thanks!

[@slomotrainwreck]

Tom I really enjoyed the video! I also sent you a PM through you youtube channel.

[@TomsTechniques]

+William Lee Thanks William

[@1Splat]

Tom, what type of bricks are you using or would recommend for setting up a little forge like that? Hard fire bricks for bottom and top, soft for the walls, or...? Thanks.

[@TomsTechniques]

The hard bricks are much more durable. They are what I use.

[@1Splat]

@@TomsTechniques Thank you, sir.

[@moderatemixed8410]

Thanks for the reply; and for the great videos.

[@jimmilne19]

Really informative video instruction. This makes it possible for me to case harden my parts. I have been looking for an oven, but with no luck so far. This I can do. Really helpful video. I'd never seen this done before. I actually bought some C45 square stock for the knurling tool, but haven't had the oven to harden it. Love your videos! Must one anneal or temper the steel in another lower firing?

[@TomsTechniques]

+Jim Milne Thanks Jim. If you do it, double up on the stainless foil, or use a steel box instead. The foil I used burned through and pitted the parts a bit. They did clean up pretty well, but if you keep the air off they will come out perfectly clean. The nice thing about case hardening is that no tempering is required because the case isn't thick enough for stresses to be an issue. Tom

[@deadmenwalkingsavtheusa7594]

hey tom what was the formula for tool speed again 400X ? ? can you let me know please thanks.

[@TomsTechniques]

I could, but then you wouldn't remember it. Check the cutting speed chart on my website. tomstechniques.com/reference/ Tom

[@bisholim5377]

Beautiful Job Weldon :) Can I ask you what is the name of your heat gun !!? Thank's

[@TomsTechniques]

It's a Harbor Freight special. Not many moving parts so I took a chance. :) Tom

[@moderatemixed8410]

What camera are you using? Clearest video I have seen! Or are you using some particular setting? Cheers.

[@TomsTechniques]

I use a Sony a6000 mirrorless. It's actually more of a still camera than for video, but it still does a pretty good job.

[@toddlfrank]

To open the stainless wrap we used a file with a hand ground edge like a knife on it.

[@blackstonshingaling]

What if you were to take a piece of 2" pipe, capped on both ends to retain the parts and compound, - would that work better?

[@TomsTechniques]

+Blackaboe I would not recommend that because if there is any moisture in the compound, it would make a nice pipe bomb. Besides, with all the mass in the pipe, it would take forever to get the parts to temperature. It doesn't need to be sealed that tight anyway. Any reasonably closed container will work. Tom

[@TheMandalore04]

I have a question, when you mill a part that's going to be case hardened do you need to take off more material to compensate for the hardening process?

[@TomsTechniques]

Carburizing does cause the surface to grow very slightly and how much depends on the depth. I guess if I were making a hardened part with critical dimensions, I would grind it to size after heat treat, rather than try to predict the finished size based on the carburizing process. Tom

[@reedwischhusen5376]

nice thanks for your techniques, I want to harden C30 steel, its just like 1030 but between 27-30 carbon, with some chromium and nickel and very very small trace of moly also. hopefully I can get a few thou hardness on it without effecting its toughness, but save it from wearing out.

[@TomsTechniques]

That's a low carbon steel, so it will case harden well. The depth of case is controlled by the length of time it is carburized.

[@istvangaspar8257]

Tom,I machined the Clamp Knurling Tool, Mounting Bracket from a scrap 304 stainless steel. Can stainless steel be case hardened the same way as per your latest video? Please advise.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Istvan Gaspar No, 300 series stainless cannot be hardened by heat treating. If you wanted to use stainless, some of the 400 series would have been a better choice, although hardening it at home would have been difficult. The soft 304 will probably function ok, but will get pretty beat up with use. The 304 must have been fun to machine. :) Tom

[@JRo250]

Excellent video! See if you can find the compression, limiter, auto-level, AGC, wind-filter or noise reduction feature of your mic and turn it down/off. When the mic detects a loud noise, it reduces the amplitude very quickly but then it takes far too long to open the level again. This results in your voice audio level becoming very low after a loud noise and in some cases might require the video volume to be adjusted after each event. Then again, that might all be my audio OCD playing out :-)

[@TomsTechniques]

+JRoque250 Some of that was caused by me holding the recorder (Zoom H4n) and forgetting how directional it is. I know the auto level is purposely on because otherwise I can't keep track of it doing everything myself. Next time I shoot outside, I'll make sure the wind screen is on. That may have been a contributor. Maybe I just need to teach the wife how to shoot video. :) Tom

[@johnsmith3032]

Those are some nice looking utes Tom

[@johnsmith3032]

+John Smith *Trucks

[@TomsTechniques]

+John Smith Thanks John.

[@lbcustomknives]

Always enjoy your vids Tom, I use heat treat foil all the time for heat treating high end stainless steels the foil might not have been the best quality Tom. Not sure what you payed but the stuff I use is bloody expensive but use much higher temps and never had that problem

[@TomsTechniques]

+lbcustomknives Yeah, I cheaped out and paid the price. Real heat treat foil obviously has higher temperature resistance than the stuff I used. The good stuff costs more, but it works. Tom

[@myscummyneighbours6065]

Loving the channel. New subber :-) Trying to start my own tool making business starting from scratch, nothing but the rags on my back :-)

[@TomsTechniques]

Good to hear! I'm starting to get the bug to start making some new videos, now that the weather is turning. Stay tuned. Tom

[@spclark77]

Another GREAT video Tom. I made the knurl holder and LOVE it. It works so much better than my old 'push' type knurling tool. You mentioned using Oxy/Acetylene. If going that route, does the quenching in OIL do the same thing as adding the carbonizing powder or are the two processes different?

[@TomsTechniques]

+spclark77 Ok, you asked for it. Time for a little metallurgical theory. :) A steel that can be hardened consists of a mixture of separate iron and carbon molecules (up to about .8%) at room temperature. As this steel is heated, it goes through different phases (ferrite, cementite and autenite) and when it reaches the upper critical or austenitic phase, the iron molecules readily absorb the carbon molecules and becomes a solid solution of the two elements. If the steel is allowed to cool slowly, the carbon separates from the iron and the steel reverts to its original ferritic state. If the steel is rapidly cooled, the carbon doesn't have time to escape and the structure converts to a hard crystaline structure called martensite, which just happens to be the structure of hardened steel. To answer your original question, the carbon has to be present in the steel before it will behave like this and air, oil or water (depending on the steel) is the quenching medium to cool the steel at the required rate, fast enough to make it hard, but not so fast as to cause it to warp or crack. Case hardening, like I did in the video goes through the very same phases as described, except that it only occurs near the surface of the metal where the carbon content is highest. It's been a long time since college metallurgy, so hopefully I haven't made any serious errors. At least the basic concept should be solid. Tom

[@spclark77]

+Toms Techniques Rest assured that if you DID make any mistakes, I certainly am unqualified to identify them. :)

[@MyHeap]

Tom, You didn't move below the equator for a little more summer did you? :-) Joe

[@TomsTechniques]

No, but the weather around here has been downright equatorial. It was in the mid 70's this past Friday, before it snowed on Saturday. I have been in the shop a bit resurrecting it from its summer disarray and will be dusting off the camera soon. Tom

[@MyHeap]

Great news, I can't wait.

[@devurandom2019]

Great info thanks for the video!

[@mimlomiani6949]

Love your video's and I have learned alot from them. Thank you for sharing Brother....:)

[@TomsTechniques]

Thank you for watching

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Thanks watched again!

[@robertkutz]

tom nice job.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Robert Kutz Thanks for watching

[@paulrosebrock]

Did he ever show the parts after clean up?

[@TomsTechniques]

Life got in the way and I stopped making videos, so I didn't do the last one in this series. I'm retired now though and hope to pick up where I left off in the near future.

[@787frankie]

i can't wait to see it in action lol!!!!

[@TomsTechniques]

+Francisco bruno jimenez That's the easy part!

[@Opinionator52]

A usable lesson well taught Tom! Thank you! :o) O,,,

[@TomsTechniques]

+Opinionator52 Thanks O

[@davidjames1007]

Thank you most informative and interesting...

[@TomsTechniques]

+David James You are very welcome.

[@LordOfTamarac]

Hey Tom, I’m not sure if you’re aware but AVE made a video about cherry red where he basically said the product was fairly useless, his assessment was that it creates a hard oxide layer but that’s about it. You seem to be a proponent of this product and process. Do you disagree with his assessment, if so what do you think was missed in that video?

[@TomsTechniques]

Mike, I only mentioned Cherry Red as an option because Kasenite is getting hard to find, but any compound will harden the surface of a steel part when used properly. Looking at the video you mentioned, the compound was not used properly. The part was not heated to an adequate temperature before applying the compound and was not heated long enough to get any kind of case depth after it was applied. I guess the moral of the story is, don't believe everything you see on KZbin, especially if the fellow doing the video has a hard time talking in complete sentences. :) Tom

[@LordOfTamarac]

Toms Techniques Thank you for the swift feedback. As a machinist in my early 20’s with no metalworkers in my immediate circle I have come to rely on the internet for these sorts of things. Your videos are invaluable and I very much appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

[@MakinSumthinFromNuthin]

I loved your reply to the original poster Tom...made my day 😊

[@TomsTechniques]

:)

[@67hefty]

very nice...Thank you

[@TomsTechniques]

+Chris Evens Thanks Chris

[@TheFuneralDirector]

When I saw you wrapping it in the foil I thought you were copying one of Doubleboosts cooking video's, very informative video tho thank you

[@TomsTechniques]

+The Funeral Director 1965 I actually don't watch other videos that much, including John's. So no, I wasn't copying. Besides, doesn't he do it with food? :) Tom

[@mikenixon9164]

Have you quit making videos?

[@TomsTechniques]

Not at all. I just take summers off to enjoy life. :)

[@MyHeap]

That's good to hear. Just found you and have been binge watching. Can't wait to see more. Joe

[@gordo3di]

Easy solution. Move somewhere without summers and we get non-stop videos :)

[@TomsTechniques]

Nah, summers are too much fun. But I am working on retiring, then I'll have an extra 50 hours a week. :)

[@TheMartorious]

Looking forward to seeing the knurling tool finished and in use. Thank you for taking the time to share your experiences with us.

[@Oyez10]

You toss some steaks over those coals when you were done? :)

[@johnanderson7988]

You still making videos/instruction? Well this one made me cringe when you were wrapping that s/s. I kept saying "put on some leather gloves"! A mechanic/engineer by trade I know about cuts. Anyway great video and I may have try that if the need arises.

[@TomsTechniques]

Haven't made videos in four years. Too much life shit going on. I don't even have a shop at the moment, although I've been busy building one. :) Get the wire thing, but I rather be poked by a wire than have a hand or arm twisted off by the rotating shaft. Check out the accident data on the Bureau of Labor Statistcs if you really want a good cringe.

[@johnanderson7988]

@@TomsTechniques Wow. Well your's are go-tos for me. Hopefully your website still works. I was going to check that out. Hopefully you'll get that shop done and start again. Good luck. I'm in Michigan and my shop is not heated so I have that to deal with.

[@lkrueger9494]

:-)