Carriage Stop Clamp Bolts, Machining the Head and Heat Treating

[@brianb5779]

I told a guy at work that with videos like these who needs to pay for schooling, im learning stuff that ive always either had questions on or finally getting info that guys could only give so-so advice on. Keep up the great vids because they are def appreciated and being learned from. I wish you were my neighbor cuz id be bugging the crap out of you.

[@jimmilne19]

It is a delight to observe excellence: your character reflected in your work and pedagogic approach to teaching. You're a natural. We get a lot out of your fine videos and I get even more because I'm a novice. I am therefore very appreciative. Thank you, again.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Jim.

[@reideichner8597]

Hi Tom, Nice job on those bolts. Very professional and great explanation on the heat treat! Thanks for showing us. Best Regards, Reid

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Reid, glad you enjoyed it. Tom

[@Bestcabinetmaker]

The heat treat lesson is greatly appreciated! Nice work, and worth the effort. Thanks

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Larry. Surprisingly enough, there isn't a lot of basic HT theory on the web. Tom

[@ronhubbard4663]

Tom, Learn something every time I watch one of your videos. Loved this one especially regarding the form tools and the heat treating. Nice result and nice parts.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Ron.

[@bendavanza]

Another excellent video. Your explanations make learning easy. Thank you.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks for watching

[@pierresgarage2687]

Thanks a lot for sharing, I like your attention to details, that makes the all difference for a real good looking and a reliable finish product. Looking forward to the knurling tool. Pierre

[@N76VY]

Thanks for another great video Tom! Yours is one of my favorite channels. I learn something new every time. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks for watching Lyn. Tom

[@3Orthoman]

Tom thanks for all the time you take to share your skills with us. BTW I love the venerable Craftsman grinder. I have the exact one you do and it has been a workhorse, friend and essential shop companion for as long as I can remember. It harkens back to the days when I would roam the isles of the Sears store drooling over the gleaming display of tools and making mental checklists of what I would like to buy. All my first power tools were the black and aluminum Craftsman models (made by Singer I believe) and my swiveling head jig saw still goes strong. It must be close to 30 years ago I bought that grinder.

[@austin3538]

Thank you for your input and fast response very much appreciated

[@MrJmcn123]

Great videos Tom, I enjoy the channel. Keep them coming. Take care.

[@aryesegal1988]

As always, great video, Tom! :) Thank you very much for sharing, looks wonderful!

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks for watching!

[@truongsondinh1409]

Great! Thank you so much Tom! Specially Heat Treatment! I will learn more about HT from you. Thanks!

[@outsidescrewball]

Hey Tom Great video/lesson, I learned a bunch and really always enjoy how you teach how to simply complete batch cuts with little effort! Damn...now I have to buy tongs!....lol Chuck

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Chuck. I have a smaller pair of tongs somewhere, but couldn't find them for the video. Tom

[@FredMiller]

Inspiring! Thanks for the heat treating lesson! -Fred

[@TomsTechniques]

As I said, it's been a LONG time since metallurgy class, so I hope it all made sense. I do own a heat treat oven and will be getting set up to harden the parts on my Steven's project. I'll go into a little more detail then. Thanks for watching. Tom

[@michaelmurray9154]

Great series! Those screws are going to finish your project off with a nice OEM look!

[@TomsTechniques]

Michael Murray Thanks Michael, it's fun to go the extra mile on a project. Tom

[@Opinionator52]

Hi Tom, They sure turned out nice, using the square heads was well worth doing, so to match the look of the sweet old machine that it is! Thanks... :o] O,

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks O.

[@douglasthompson2740]

Thanks once again. I guess I will go with a dial indicator. You affirm what I was thinking about the hard stop with no clutch. Thought there might be something I was missing.

[@shawnlund]

Thanks Tom, I will definately try burning off the smoke next time, would never have thought to do that. Cheers

[@TomsTechniques]

Yes, it keeps the stink down in the shop. :)

[@imysteryman]

I got to get some of that 01, thanks again. John

[@TomsTechniques]

O1 is very useful stuff.

[@shawnlund]

Thanks Tom, I just got some collet blocks and the way you cut the square heads on the bolts was much simpler than what I was planning. Cutting the small relief on both sides then measuring is simple brilliance. The few parts I have heat treated really smoked like crazy when they hit the oil, I was surprised to see much less smoke and just a bit of surface flame when you put the part in the oil. I was going to ask what oil up you used but you already answered that question. Thanks Shawn

[@TomsTechniques]

Shawn, You may not have noticed, but I burned off a lot of the smoke with the torch during the quench. It would have smoked more had I not done that, Tom

[@dennyskerb4992]

Awesome Tom

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks for watching.

[@kellysampson5984]

Hi Tom, thank you nice job love your videos. M.K.S.

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks Kelly.

[@OGZeroLyfe]

lol you're next project should be a pin wrench for that collet block

[@TomsTechniques]

Yeah, I'll add it to the list. I think there's an open spot in the 80's. ;)

[@lindsaynicholls3110]

hey tom brilliant video and fantastic explanation ..linds

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks

[@BigMjolnir]

Thanks Tom! Phase diagrams never made sense before. Now I think I can figure out the right temps for whatever steel I end up using. Can I assume that the "O" in "O1" is for "oil hardening", and that "W1" would be "water hardening"? And that otherwise the process would be the same (except tempering....burning off the water won't work as an indication of temperature, or give a nice black finish)? -- Mike

[@TomsTechniques]

Yes, the O is for oil the W is for water and A is for air. They all have different characteristics and applications. Check the links section of my website (tomstechniques.com) for more information on steels and heat treating. Tempering is the same with any of the steels although the range of temperatures vary greatly for the different types. You just heat them up to the temp needed to obtain the harness required for your application. The oil blackening step can be applied to any steel as long as you don't get it so hot that it takes the hardness out. Tom

[@billdlv]

Tom thanks for posting, especially the HT portion of the project. I might have to try that oil finish it looks pretty good. Is it as effective if you start with a cold part that was not heat treated? Say a 1018 part that did not need hardening? At some point maybe a shop tour video? It's always good to see how others have their shop setup.

[@TomsTechniques]

Bill, Oil blackening will work on any carbon steel part, it doesn't have to be high carbon steel. A shop tour is on my list. I see that most of the other guys have done it. Maybe after spring cleaning? :) Tom

[@hdoug5]

very nice :) now I should be able to make and harden my bolts :)

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks

[@jcknives4162]

Hi Tom, Great video. I've done a lot of heat treating of O1 and love it (for knife making). I do use an electronic kiln and SS foil. I'm guessing that the tongs will act as a heat sink and prevent the place where they touch the part from reaching critical temp. Perhaps holding the head or shaft would be better. I'm guessing that the threads are where you really want your toughness and the head will get some even with the heat sink. Just my thoughts. Thanks again… I love the oil finish!!

[@TomsTechniques]

The tongs only have point contact on the crest of the thread so they probably aren't going to affect it. I have a smaller pair somewhere.... Tom

[@rchopp]

Those are some nice looking fasteners, Have you ever annealed the tool steel before machining just wondered if it would be easier to machine. Thanks for sharing your techniques..

[@TomsTechniques]

O1 drill rod is already in the annealed state. It's just tougher to machine compared to the free machining steels. Tom

[@keldsor]

Hi Tom ! Why not just some thin wire instead of the big heat consuming tongue ?

[@TomsTechniques]

Because when I drop the hot part on the bench trying to hold it with wire I'd have to get the tongs anyway. :) Tom

[@keldsor]

Toms Techniques HA, ha, ;-))

[@IBWatchinUrVids]

Tom, every time I start your recent videos, my wife says "What's that?!" when the earthquake begins from the sound on your splash screen. Apparently, one of us needs to adjust the bass. :)

[@TomsTechniques]

Yeah, it's a constant battle over the sub woofer around here as well. Women just seem to have issues with the land below 20Hz. :) Tom

[@austin3538]

Yes tom another great job you are a very good machinist can I ask your opinion I'm getting another lathe I have a choice of a 10 by 20 precision Mathews or a 12 by 36 craftsman atlas commercial your opinion on the better lathe I would value your choice thanks for another great video

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks. I'm not familiar with the Matthews, but would not recommend the Craftsman, or any lathe with flat ways. They are plentiful, but suffer a severe lack of rigidity. Tom

[@oohsam]

Thanks for the video Tom. Will the screws remain black even after knocks and scratches? Really appreciate the video. Sameh.

[@TomsTechniques]

Parts blackened in oil aren't as durable as the black oxide coating used on socket head cap screws, but they hold up pretty well. The nice thing is that it's easy to "freshen them up" if needed. Thanks for watching. Tom

[@gbyoung2]

Need to heat treat and temper a small 01 form tool I've made, so your heat treat/temper process was very informative. Did not see/hear it mentioned, but what oil were you using for quenching? More importantly, will any oil lose its sheen during the tempering phase? I'm planning on using canola oil, so will it dull like yours did to tell me I have reached the proper temper temperature? Much thanks.

[@TomsTechniques]

Any motor oil will work for quenching. I just use whatever is left over from the last oil change. I have never tried using vegetable oil so I wouldn't recommend it. It may cool the part too quickly to achieve the proper hardness. It also has a lot lower flash point than motor oil. Tom

[@tonyennis3008]

What is the purpose of the radius at the end of the bolt?

[@TomsTechniques]

I like the look of it. There is more to design than function. :)

[@HarleyPebley]

Thanks for the heat treating segment. Is the oil anything special or just something like 30 weight engine oil?

[@TomsTechniques]

Oil is oil when it comes to heat treating, it all works the same. This was some old 40W motor oil that I had laying around. Tom

[@HarleyPebley]

Thanks Tom!

[@kokosense6005]

I can't hear the part while you done the heat treatment procedure! do you heat untill the oil burnt out of the bolt! or you heat for specific time?

[@TomsTechniques]

Heat just enough to burn off the oil.

[@blickberg8404]

Hi Tom, your dicussion on heat treating theory was very informative. Could you tell me what book you are referencing in the video?

[@TomsTechniques]

Thanks. I was referring to the Machinery's Handbook. Tom

[@blickberg8404]

Thanks, I suspected as such. Still working on getting that book in my library.

[@dsouzand]

can you polish that again after?

[@TomsTechniques]

Sure, if you don't mind removing the black finish. The part will still be hard. Tom

[@IBWatchinUrVids]

Tom, I know there are several to choose from, but what oil did you use for quenching on this project? Is there any reason you chose this oil vs. another? I understand water or salt water might cool too quickly, resulting in a brittle part.

[@TomsTechniques]

Oil is oil when it comes to quenching. This was some old 40 weight motor oil that I don't use any more. Tom

[@brianb5779]

Excellent info. Just please talk louder when using the torch. You prob gave critical info that couldnt be heard so please either speak way louder or explain everything prior. Thanks for the good teaching and explaining the chart was a huge help.

[@TomsTechniques]

Sorry about the torch. I had no idea it was so loud until editing the video. It was worse, but I processed the audio end edited as much of the high frequency hiss as possible. Next time I do a video with a torch, I'll know. If I get some time, I'll add captions to the video. Glad you liked the part about the iron carbon diagram, it's been a while since I used it. Tom

[@douglasthompson2740]

Can you run a carriage stop if your leadscrew doesn't have a clutch in the headstock? I am thinking it may lead to a damaging crash in a moments inattention? I would really like to install one on my 12x36 Grizzly G4003G but Grizzly says it does not have a clutch feature. Thus I would potentially be coming up against a hard immovable object.

[@TomsTechniques]

+Douglas Thompson It has nothing to do with a clutch Douglas. Lathes that are designed with power feed stops, like my Hardinge actually disengage the feed when the stop is contacted. PLEASE don't try it on a standard lathe. Tom

[@fuzzy1dk]

is it just me or does that chuck have quite bit of run-out?

[@TomsTechniques]

It's either you, the video or maybe me since it's fully adjustable. I'll check and see if it needs tweaking. Tom

[@fuzzy1dk]

Toms Techniques at around 8:25 before cutting the groove it sounds off maybe the was something on one of the jaws, at around 13:30 the inside of the groove looks offset

[@capncharlie7894]

purely freehand. awesome. Phil

[@TomsTechniques]

Don't sell yourself short Phil, there is a lot that can be done free hand, especially when it comes to form tools. Thanks for watching. Tom

[@jayphilipwilliams]

Did that bolt spin when you took the first heavy cut, or am I hallucinating? Maybe you oughta hunt down that spanner wrench! :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWrZfml7abmXm68m36s

[@TomsTechniques]

Well, it ended up square and to size so if it did move, it didn't move by much. Collet blocks are a bit weak in the grip category so it wouldn't surprise me if it did. Tom

[@jayphilipwilliams]

Yeah, they definitely turned out nice!

[@Mrhadiiiii]

l like the quenching time when lm working in basement because after this l can eat haahaha