Filmmaker Mode in HDR Explained | There’s Nothing Wrong With Your TV

[@Caleb_Denison]

Hey all. Obviously 120 is evenly Divisible by 24. I falsely extrapolated the 3:2 pulldown required for 60 Hz to also apply at double the refresh rate and yeah, that’s some embarrassing sh*t. I’ll just be over here not living that down.

[@ococoseco]

To me, the biggest issue with that segment is not even the messing up with the numbers, but the explanation itself, which has factual errors and misinformation; why did old LCDs and especially plasmas not have this issue even though they were also 60hz (and thus also used 3:2 pulldown)? Because of *motion resolution* . Modern panels, especially OLEDs, have quite small motion resolution in most part because of their sample and hold nature combined with very low pixel response times, which means each frame stays on the screen for a very long time. That combined with how our eyes track motion leads to an effect we call “persistence blur”. To make it all worse, persistence blur is amplified the brighter the image is, which means HDR movies on our ever brighter modern panels look even worse in that regard. THAT is what causes stutter on modern screens when watching 24p movies. Not 3:2 pulldown. 3:2 pulldown is designed to _remove_ judder (note my usage of the words judder and stutter here; they’re not the same thing). *IMHO* you should pull this video down (pun not intended) and upload a new one with better, factual information. You would certainly not be the first to do this, but you would certainly gain a lot more respect and credibility from your audience.

[@Acer0c]

No worries, to err is human. ❤

[@cjsnowdon]

Hi Caleb I use the filmmaker mode on my LG pose tv for everything Does Filmaker mode always force the picture to 24P? Or does it let the refresh rate go to near as possible to the original frame rate? I use an apple tv and use the setting, match frame rate and resolution etc Remember when 1080/24P used to be a sell hehe Great channel btw ;)

[@ThePreciseClimber]

Yarr, Math be a harsh mistress...

[@rufdymond]

I have a Panasonic LZ2000 and when watching movies I tend to leave the set in Filmmaker Mode, but leave on the ambient light sensor and the auto white balance. To be honest it’s a credit to the processing in the TV that I don’t notice the picture change when going from lights on to lights off in my viewing room. The TV adapts the picture so well and so quickly I don’t notice the difference. I’m totally happy with the picture it produces

[@LucianPSimracing]

5:18 Wrong, 120/24=5, so a frame can be presented for 5 refreshes.

[@inigogc]

Like my comment instead, so it becomes noticed by Digital Trends / Caleb.

[@Acer0c]

@@inigogc He said this in a previous video too.

[@inigogc]

@@Acer0c he made a mistake before? He hasn’t been corrected before?

[@Acer0c]

@@inigogc I commented about it and probably other people on the video. I assume they got buried in all the other comments. It was on a q&a video.

[@inigogc]

@@Acer0c please like my comment about this same topic then, so it gets noticed

[@inigogc]

120 IS divisible by 24. 120/24 = 5. On 60Hz displays it must do 3:2 pulldown or Motion Smoothing, but not on 120hz displays. It can display it natively. PLEASE correct your video.

[@whiskizyo2067]

basic math is hard

[@roadeomagic]

​@@whiskizyo2067I didn't go to school that day 😆

[@Sas-wk9lj]

lol

[@chriswindham9868]

What if it does 144 Hz ?

[@simtheory7894]

Came here to say the same thing lol

[@lencarter1460]

Caleb, thank you for this. Absolutely excellent video! I recently bought a Samsung QN 90 C and was unimpressed with filmmaker mode. Because of your video I went in to the settings and made a number of changes and now the picture has definite factor! Keep up the good work!

[@Horvat04]

You can also buy a tv from 1960 if you want true filmmaker mode

[@kennethmanuputty9865]

😂😂😂​@@Horvat04

[@toyanucci]

Thank you so much! I bought the U7N during the recent sale and was never conpletely happy with it because of the colors but putting it in film maker mode and turning the brightness up and setting the motion smoothing to custom and maxing it out (I love the smoothness) had made the tv much more enjoyable to watch as I no longer feel the need to constantly change setting while watching tv.

[@rgfox82]

Do you have the automatic light sensor on or off?

[@toyanucci]

​​@@rgfox82Off. I'd probably keep it on if it wasn't so aggressive but it's effects are too strong and makes the TV super dim in the day.

[@Acer0c]

5:17 Why do you keep saying this about 120Hz?🤔120 / 24 = 5

[@Acer0c]

This is what I get for editing my comment a few times before posting. From no comments on it to being the third comment about it. 🤣

[@ethansmith09]

Some creators make small, easily detectable mistakes to drive engagement in the comments. To appeal to the algorithm.

[@jorge69696]

@@ethansmith09 I don't think it is intentional. TVs STILL have stutter despite 24p fitting perfectly within 120hz. There must be a reason for it but he hasn't explained it in detail yet.

[@aread13]

Could Digital Trends create a video that I (and others) could play my TV that would help to dial in all these settings? The video could contain images and video that highlight each setting to be altered, and how to recognise when you have reach a sweet spot.

[@Apreche]

If you just want to know what to do, skip to 8:00 That step by step guide really should have been the start of the video. Do the summary first, then explain the reasons and details afterwards.

[@FLASHAHOLIC_TV]

Caleb, where do ya get the camo polo shirt from?

[@firstlast-pt5pp]

@4:50 - adaptive frequency monitor/display will play various FPS smoothly ( no judders) unless the FPS is too low ( but that's not judder)

[@KingBobaFett434]

Which picture mode would be better for a Samsung 4K tv movie mode or filmmaker mode?

[@FrostyDog9186]

5:29. Um. 120/5 = 24. That’s evenly divided.

[@boborambow]

Do you recommend turning on match framerate on the Apple TV? I have it turned on so my Hisense tv shows it’s doing 24fps. But as you said, that’s not easily divisible. So is it better to leave it at 60 fps? I’ll say that I do watch in a pitch black basement and I do enjoy watching the movies in their original intent. So I have all the post processing turned off in my tv.

[@HullRupture]

Correction 24 is divisible into 120hz But if you're streaming then a lot of the time it's being refreshed at a standard 60hz anyway. But you have a real cinema mode or whatever its called on other tvs to apply the correct cadence. The problem with stutter on 24fps content is with how the display tech shows each frame. Which is especially problematic on OLED where pixel response is perfect and you have each frame being kept on screen till the next one in what's called sample and hold which is why low frame rate content appears to stutter. It's tolerable but I prefer using some motion smoothing now to mitigate it. Also that's why black frame insertion exists but you lose brightness with that method of course

[@christianbrindamour6826]

Great breakdown of the picture mode. That said, are you presenting this as a simple option for consumers, or should they still inform temselves on calibrating the tv?

[@rufdymond]

I have a Panasonic LZ2000 and when watching movies I tend to leave the set in Filmmaker Mode, but leave on the ambient light sensor and the auto white balance. To be honest it’s a credit to the processing in the TV that I don’t notice the picture change when going from lights on to lights off in my viewing room. The TV adapts the picture so well and so quickly I don’t notice the difference. I’m totally happy with the picture it produces.

[@TrollMeister_]

Thanks for this. My new Panasonic oled 65” just arrived and I am familiarizing myself with all the new control params that I am not used to.

[@Obdus]

I agree. I love Filmmaker Mode, but for Non-HDR film and shows, I do set the dynamic brightness to high so I still get a brighter picture than intended. The jutter isn't an issue for me since my TV does have a mode where the panel refreshes and the same frame rate as the film. For HDR films, I do not do anything, I do like the intended filmmaker mode look on my LG C3 OLED, and Dolby Vision is my absolute favorite kind.

[@audie-cashstack-uk4881]

Cinema and cinema home are for Dolby not hdr10 it looks way off hdr10 use filmmaker sdr flick between fm and expert bright and dark pick Whitch looks best

[@GamezGuru1]

no, your TV is not refreshing at the frame rate of the movie. and even if it did, this would not prevent judder.

[@djayjp]

Judder is not a "side effect" of going from 24-120fps, rather it's most noticeable on displays with fast response times (like OLED) as they *correctly* display the low framerate of the source material. The apparent judder is just due to the low framerate, period.

[@JonPais]

Judder increases with high brightness, high contrast displays, that is HDR. Stutter is the result of the instantaneous response time of OLED. You’re welcome.

[@djayjp]

@@JonPais You're wrong. Stutter refers to inconsistent frame pacing actually. You're welcome.

[@JonPais]

@@djayjp wrong buddy. “Stutter is an artifact of motion that happens when a frame stays on the screen for too long. It can be bothersome while watching movies or low frame rate content because the TV has to hold each frame on longer. Stutter has an inverse relationship with the response time of the TV; the quicker the response time, the more stutter there is, while slower response time results in less stutter.” rtngs.

[@djayjp]

@@JonPais "Stuttering occurs when frame rates fall below the VSync frame rate cap, which is typically 60 frames per second, matching the 60Hz refresh rate of most monitors and screens. When frame rates dip below the cap VSync locks the frame rate to the nearest level, such as 45 or 30 frames per second. As performance improves the frame rate returns to 60. In performance-intensive games this dramatic change in frame rate can occur several times per second, resulting in clearly noticeable stuttering as the frame rate jumps around, often causing eye strain and headaches." --Nvidia, Adaptive Sync

[@JonPais]

@@djayjp Apparently you can’t wrap your head around the fact that there can be more than one cause of stutter. OLED suffers from stutter. It’s not a GPU issue. It cannot be fixed by a driver update. It is not judder. Judder exists in all 24p material, it’s been around since the birth of film. It is exacerbated by HDR.

[@cubsfan-l9x]

I don't usually care for it. SDR looks totally fine to me. HDR makes some movies way too dark imo. All that's really different about a lot of 4K remsaters is they are just coloring them differently.

[@HullRupture]

Glad this video was made. I recently just ditched filmmaker mode for those reasons. It's meant for a dark viewing environment and doesn't take into account your tvs display tech and its capabilities to optimise for its display type. I just stick with cinema mode now. 2.2 gamma and a bit of motion smoothing to alleviate the stutter etc. Still has accurate colours

[@michael-4k4000]

As a Filmmaker, I only watch movies ar a maximum of 25 nits and a minimum of 1 nit. Anything brighter than 25 nits is way to bright for your eyes and could cause damage to your retinas.

[@jimv1983]

​​@@michael-4k400025 nits is way too dim. Even a typical movie theater, which is already not very bright, is about 50 nits. Theaters definitely aren't too bright and aren't going to damage your eyes.

[@winexprt]

@@michael-4k4000 So true! I mistakenly watched a movie on a super bright LED TV 3 years ago. It was set to 26 nits, which immediately caused blindness in both eyes. I've been using a cane and a trusty seeing-eye dog ever since. Damn those 26 nit TV's!!!! Damn them to HELL!

[@zedamex]

​@@michael-4k4000monitor set to 90 nits for me. Which I believe SDR generally targeted at 100.

[@ryans413]

This may sound stupid but on normal 1080p SDR content I stick to the standard setting. With 4K HDR I use vivid and I know people will hate me but I adjusted vivid to not look so blue and got the colors to be more warm. I use vivid because it’s the brightest the tv goes it’s the one picture setting that gets the tv the brightest. I have an OLED so blacks are black and whites are white and in vivid it looks amazing. I tried FMM and it just destroyed the picture dark as hell colours gone it had like a brownish tint to it I really don’t get this setting awful.

[@jamesloehr641]

I start with filmmaker mode. But I change the gama to 2.2 and turn up the brightness all the way and local dimming all the way. Colors i put on a cooler setting.

[@Embre_2]

I never use Filmmaker mode on my OLED. Just gets to dim. Standard mode for most content though adjusted whitepoint and colors, and even dynamic mode for some animated movies.

[@Deccani]

HDR was NOT explained in this video. Remove it from title. But yes you need a make an in depth video on HDR

[@dadadadada4974]

He flunked out of school, so give him some slack. You should have seen some of his essay titles. 😂

[@joshmo24]

​@@dadadadada4974 Dude why are you making essentially this same comment in multiple different threads? It's so weird, like please find a hobby.

[@dadadadada4974]

@@joshmo24 😂 Because I find it funny that he failed both Writing class and Math class. 😂

[@joshmo24]

@@dadadadada4974 go outside

[@williammaverick]

the whole video was a big WTF given the title let alone the thumbnail stating that the video is supposed to address why HDR looks dark.

[@FuriousPope]

"no overbrightening in filmakermode" is false on the LG G4 in SDR. Industry standard for brightness in SDR is 100 nits which corresponds to a pixel brightness setting of 20 on the G4 (for dark room viewing). SDR filmmaker mode is set to 80 out of the box. "Expert" users (like for color grading) also recommend a pixel brightness setting between 20 - 35 for following industry standards instead of the standard 80. Even the G4's isf expert dark room is set at 60 in SDR, which looks way to bright for users used to a nit brightness of 100 - 120 in SDR.

[@billa5542]

I watch about 80% tv (mostly sports); and 20 movies via apps UHD discs BD discs. Sounds like FILMAKER MODE may not be for me. What is the original intend of the director of this live Stanley cup playoff game? what about for an episode of blue bloods through my cable DVR?

[@MLT2550]

Thanks for the video. I just got a brand new 65in LG C4, and im perplexed at times getting the setting right. And Yes Filmmaker mode or Cinema is too dark on my set. I usually have to put the tv in vivid mode with Dolby Vision to see my UHD 4k Blurays on my oppo 203. I miss the old days of getting a thick manual with product, and LG gives me a a 3 page leaflet in the Box!! Everything electronic now is supposed to be "intuitive" or You'll figure it out through osmosis, you dont need a proper manual...WTF i do!!

[@Tomhyde098]

Perfect timing! I just got a C3 over the weekend and it’s blowing my mind. I use Filmmaker Mode and boost the brightness a little bit. Can’t wait to get my UB820 this weekend to really see what this tv can do.

[@davidoswald5749]

I recently got the Hisense U7K, and overall it's good (though sometimes i get that red blur/smear thing going on), but I'm writing because I watch The Ranch, on Netflix (Dolby Vision) which used to be fine but now somehow is extremely dim/dark and I don't know how to fix it

[@guyr3618]

Any reason why Sony TVs don't have filmmaker mode?

[@chriskelly1740]

For Sony TVs, Custom/Professional is the equivalent of Filmmaker Mode. Correct? So far, my only issue with this mode is underrsaturated colors when playing Rec.709 1080p Blu-rays and 480i DVDs. The color on my 4K UHD HDR10 and Dolby Vision Blu-rays looks fantastic in this mode. Yet when watching 1080p Blu-rays and SD 480i DVDs on older plasmas and CRTs, the colors look just as fantastic. This suggests to me that yesterday's displays were designed for the Rec.709 color space, while today's displays are designed for the BT.2020 color space. While director's intent is being achieved in HDR10 and Dolby Vision, if today's displays by default aren't converting SDR Rec.709 to HDR BT.2020, wouldn't undersaturation when playing older formats be preventing today's displays from revealing proper color reproduction, and therefor, not adhering to creator's/director's intent? On my Sony X90L, I have discovered that the best thing to do in the Custom picture mode is when playing SDR Rec.709 discs, set Live Color to Medium, and when playing 4K UHD Blu-rays encoded in HDR10 and Dolby Vision, set Live Color to Off being that they don't need any enhancements. Unless display manufacturers figure out how to properly convert SDR Rec.709 to HDR BT.2020, when playing 1080p Blu-rays and SD 480i DVDs, it looks like it's up to us to use features such as Samsung's Color Booster, Sony's Live Color, etc., and set them to a level at which the colors are accurate and vivid without making skin tones oversaturated in order for them to look as good as 4K UHD Blu-rays encoded with HDR10 or Dolby Vision. Make sense?

[@movie_av_impulse]

12:31 I just leave my Sony on custom mode for Dolby vision. I leave it on dark and I just turned down The living room lights and close the shades. And for HDR I leave my Sony on theater HDR theater to me. Me gives the best accuracy that I like

[@djayjp]

So this doesn't at all explain why HDR looks dark. HDR10 looks like dim poo vs DV(IQ) and even some DV material (especially on Apple+) is authored to look very dim, sadly. There's a trade-off between preserving high luminance detail/gradations and APL (average picture brightness level). I think it's pretty obvious that the latter should be prioritized. WHY CAN'T WE CONTROL THE TONE MAPPING?! Like Low, Medium, High? Ugh.

[@maricallo6143]

DV Dark mode on my Hisense A85 OLED (EU) is equivalently "dark" as HDR 10 version of the same film, also the EOTF measures correctly against DV test patterns, taken with a colorimeter. So there is nothing in DV that makes APL brighter than HDR10. It's the other DV modes like DV Custom mode or DV IQ which uses brighter EOTF for daytime viewing. And those can be tweaked further with adaptive contrast. My gripe is that DV IQ is locked into soap opera effect and there is no real 5:5 pulldown with this TV, just different levels of motion smoothing, some of which do simulate 24p motion without judder but with various interpolation artifacts. All very strange, since it's an LG 120Hz panel but it's like it can't do 5:5 pulldown. I wonder if it's the same with Hisense US models....

[@bewhee]

That’s because FMM sets tone mapping to static. I hate that as well, so I switched it to active/dynamic which is way too bright for a low light room, so I also turned down the brightness. This way I have more control and I can turn it up for really dark movies like House of the Dragon etc.

[@djayjp]

@@maricallo6143 Hmm interesting so maybe DV via standard EOTF can just allow for more high luminance detail/range vs HDR10 (non+) on a per scene basis? True, I do use the brighter (likely non standard) DV mode but thankfully no SOE here--that's unfortunate for that TV!

[@djayjp]

@@bewhee Hmm did the colour temp change in that mode?

[@bewhee]

@@djayjp No

[@stepheng8779]

Still rocking my Pioneer Kuro, 2nd one I've had & love it. Praying it lasts for years cos I have no desire to buy a new TV. Too many settings 🤯 Set the Kuro to Pure mode day one & never touched it since, day light night time makes no difference, always looks fantastic ❤

[@THK619]

That’s the dream tv my roommate and I wanted back in the day. But we were way too poor to afford one.

[@Jza-GZa40k]

Can’t go wrong with classic good sdr TVs

[@Barbarapape]

There was a time when you switched on your TV tweaked the brightness, contrast and colour then sat back and enjoyed the content. But not today, now you have to spend ages tweaking all the options some of which are blocked until you change more settings, so at some point you settle back only to fall asleep part way through the content. Some may call it progress, i just can't be bothered with it all. Yes i am a ludite with CRT and Plasma TV's that don't require hours of adjusting all the modes.

[@jonathanparle8429]

Interestingly my previous TV (a 2014 model LG LB6500) took ages and ages to get it looking even close to right and I never really succeeded in the end - I was always fiddling with it. All I managed even after a decade of on and off tweaking was to get it to look good most of the time. The settings ended up being so complex and so radically different for each source I had to document them for fear of an unexpected "reset to default". By stark contrast, I bought a brand new LG C4 OLED last month. I had the settings dialed in within half an hour and have never felt any need to touch any setting since - it looked great after half an hour of learning what the settings do and dialing them in and looks just as good after a month of familiarity. And unlike previous experiences with other TVs, the settings I came up with work equally well regardless of the source. The only things I have changed outside of that initial setting up session have been a couple of "procedural" settings that have nothing to do with picture or sound. The experience with my new OLED actually reminded me of the good old days with simple analogue TVs since quite honestly it wasn't that much harder to get it right. It's been about the easiest piece of technology to setup I have ever bought!

[@Barbarapape]

@@jonathanparle8429 Perhaps for once LG have got the firmware right first time, but i doubt it other reviewers have recently uploaded video's of the latest firmware. I would switch off automatic updates, i repair these TV's for a living, and once the set is bricked by a bad update, it is a nightmare even with all the gear that i have to restore them to a working condition. I hope your C4 retains all your settings for a long time, TV's are meant to be watched and enjoyed.

[@ryans413]

I find every new tv a get takes me a why’ll to find the settings I like but once I do I’m good and happy. No tv is going to be perfect out of the box even CRTs back in the day you need to fiddle with them to get it to look good.

[@Barbarapape]

@@ryans413 Haiving worked in TV repairs all my life i must have setup thousands of CRT sets getting the geometry and convergance as close as possible was an art, some samples were easier than others. Today we take perfect white straight lines as a given, but they have now added a lot of other options, even more are available in the service mode. The perfect TV will never be made or they wouldn't sell so many.

[@rct8884]

I like soap opera and I eq my music, wooo I'm not a purest. I want the tv to look the way I want it not the original producers intent. I don't like watching two people talk in the dark where all you see is teeth and eyes reflecting light (Batman movies for example) but glad that there are different modes so that everyone can find a setting they prefer.

[@TrollMeister_]

So FMM is the visual equivalent of Pure/Direct mode in av receivers. No DSP. Or the bare minimum.

[@tonymanzo3766]

Is there a normal mode, don’t want to mess with brightness, contrast and other picture settings, some programs look dark with greenish tint on faces, I have everything as sent from the factory

[@filterdecay]

just fyi on higher end content they are laying it onto film and taking it back off for the noise. its not actually digital. Other times they have "noise" from different film recorded and can apply it to the frames. I would leave it on :)

[@sasoesasoe]

And which color gamut to use? R709, DCI-P3, BT2020? I have on auto, this means SDR is mostly in R709, HDR in BT2020. Why is most of the SDR content in R709? The colors are washed out. Use of DCI-P3 for SDR would be much better. Or not? But even so, for me, SDR pops more then HDR :( SDR is brighter and more colorful. If i change gamut for SDR, first DCI-P3, the picture pops out, but some of the colors to much. If i choose BT2020 for SDR, the picture pops out even more, but its too much of red.

[@edreid7872]

The backlight in my set recently went out..I was ready to run out and buy a new one, but after a few days, I found the darkness quite appealing.. it's hard to make out some images, but it is so easy on the eyes..who knew..

[@calgary2800]

I'm using filmmaker mode in both my Samsungs S90C, Qn90c. I find the picture quality in FM to be quite good if you use standard as the color tone and not warm 1 or warm 2. The picture is now vibrant and realistic. At first I used standard mode and when I go back the picture in standard mode is just off. Give your eyes a bit of time to adjust to FM mode.

[@whogg0521]

Loved this vid. I have always “calibrated” my TVs off of either really good Blu Rays or now 4K Blu rays, especially the Nature ones. The greens, blue and red seem to really be good to compare on them. I remember going online to get all these various settings and then start from there. The white level setups were painful. Hopefully the newer TVs are much better in their starting points on their respective modes.

[@gilbertleo8232]

So what is all this online hubub about Hisense administering an update to the U8K ... noticeably darkening settings and mainly observed with Dolby Vision engaged ??? DT you're at the forefront for issues like these ... will this issue appear on other brands ?

[@Yoga_Tv_buying]

I have U8G i dont have that issue. So i assume they maybe over contrasted something. IT might be Dolby issues. Dolbey has full control of how BRIGHT the image and go. That d TV has no control. N the Hisense pay Dolby licence for the Codes. If The Dolby ppl didnt set the level correctly they can mess tv up. The same thing happened when I bought my U8G. That Hisense doing update. The tv went from clear to “stroke” visual. Turned out the company Tycon provided Tcon board, didnt set up the timming correctly to cause the back/front panels with miss matched weird visual. I almost returned my tv, if wasnt they happened to have update to correct it. So prob just wait out. I am sure it will get reversed. 😊

[@raymondblanc2345]

speaking of the hisense U8N 55” model what is posturization? and is it a thing?

[@mrpositronia]

I have to remove the yellow tint. I dont understand why that is implemented.

[@garetha1981]

Any help for someone with a LG C2? I have read so many conflicting web pages or videos suggesting which modes to use.

[@EduFirenze]

Also have a C2 but I have no problem with out of the box film maker mode, just looks good to me

[@kahanbhalani3607]

As per the RTINGS articles, I think most LG TVs are capable of removing 24p Judder by a setting called Real Cinema. In my 43 inch LCD 4K LG TV when I turn on FILMMAKER MODE that setting is on by default. Just a thing to know for LG users.

[@mamjacobs1983]

Hi. I have an LG OLED, is it normal that the brightness of a oled is not as high as the brightness of a QLED?

[@gimli3506]

Yes but I prefer Oled than Qled

[@tresnugget]

I’m not a fan of the brightness. On my LG OLED I use Cinema for HDR10 and Cinema Home for DV and manually disable all of the post processing other than DTM in HDR10 and set both to Warm50

[@davidh9844]

For better or worse, I've got a 9 year old Samsung 65"/4K that is most definitely getting long in tooth. I don't have any of these problems, but I'm just not happy with the picture quality. It's time to replace. The big question is, 2023 model or more expensive 2024? Keep up your great work, the more I learn, the longer I wait...

[@mariogarcializaola4626]

I never get the two more videos that you point out to. Why?

[@FranciscoSilva-ct1qs]

I just got my first Oled tv and went for the LG G4 55'. I'm strugling to find the best image settings to watch sports, football to be precise in HDR. Any tips anyone? Thank you

[@MSDOGS1976]

I’ve rarely watched in Filmmaker mode. Instead of monkeying with the setting within it I use the modes within hdr like standard. And tweaked it a little. Works for my eyeballs.

[@notsorandumusername]

Then why couldn't you simply tweak Filmmaker Mode as well? All you need to do is up the brightness to your preferred liking. I love FMM for the highly accurate colors.

[@MSDOGS1976]

@@notsorandumusername Glad you like it. Upping brightness was not enough for me. I’m not concerned with the creators intent.

[@Chrisratata]

​@@notsorandumusername some TVs disable a fair bit of the settings in filmmaker mode. Some people might want more adjustability, even if the tweaks are slight

[@ryans413]

I hate filmmaker mode I like to use some of the other post processing settings. If I drop 2k on a OLED I want to use everything it offers. The director may have their vision but it don’t always apply to everyone else. I always tell people try the directors way or calibrate to what looks good to you. I’d rather enjoy my tv with settings I like then force myself to watch in the directors way when you ain’t really going to capture the directors vision on your cheap tv anyways. The monitors these directors calibrate their movies on cost way more then your everyday tv so you ain’t going to see the directors vision accurately anyways. It’s a selling feature to get you to buy the tv. Just calibrate your tv to what looks good to you and don’t obsess over it.

[@MSDOGS1976]

@@ryans413 Agee. I’ve had people ask me ‘don’t you want to watch the directors version of the movie?’ Well unless you are watching through the same monitors they used you will probably never see it the way they did.

[@EmblemParade]

Thank you! One of your best videos. There is indeed a big disconnect between "director's intent" and the TV technology and viewing environment. I've seen people force themselves to suffer an unpleasant filmmaker mode for ideological reasons. People in the comments are giving you a bit of a hard time here for getting the judder issue wrong. Actually, I think the truth is somewhere in between. Judder cannot be completely avoided even if the refresh rate is divisible by the frame rate (120 Hz / 24 FPS = 5). The problem is that in real world situations that doesn't happen 100% consistently. A TV is simply not an analog projector and digital formats are not film reels. So some judder correction is a good idea if you want it to get the best cinema-like experience. What I'm personally hoping for is TV manufacturers leverage VRR, a feature many new TVs have, for judder reduction, as a replacement or complement for frame interpolation. These days VRR is used for gaming, but it could probably do a lot for 1:1 representation of film frame rates.

[@jonathanparle8429]

But VRR was introduced by necessity - and it was because it was asking too much of hardware to maintain a high frame rate all of the time. The original premise was that if, for example, you could maintain 75 fps for 90% of the time but fall to 50 fps the other 10% of the time, the system including the monitor could maintain vsync regardless. It is meant for much higher frame rates than we ever encounter in TV productions let alone film productions. I have my TV interpolation setting set to "natural" on my LG C4 which is a good compromise between the unwatchable fast moving slide show that is 24 fps film and going overboard and making things look synthetic with visible artefacts. The natural settings works perfectly more than 99% of the time whereas if I turned if off, a "film maker" setting for instance (with it turned completely off) would be unwatchable for me 100% of the time. Variable refresh rates for films etc would be absolutely horrible from my perspective since the only thing that even makes film frame rates remotely tolerable to me to begin with is that at least the slide show runs at a perfectly consistent speed.

[@Mr.Martini549]

Director's intent is terminology that sounds so uppity to me. A real turn off.

[@EmblemParade]

@@jonathanparle8429 I am not advocating for VRR films. I am suggesting that VRR tech might help reduce judder by allowing the TV to match the film's frame rate more precisely.

[@petef.4361]

I got a new LG C3 77" OLED, and I put it into Filmmaker mode out of the box, and I hated how dark it was, and now I know why! That being said, can anyone with the same TV tell me which mode to put it in for a brighter/better image, and also what to set the "gamma" to? I also HATE, HATE, HATE the soap opera effect, so bonus points if you can tell me the settings to turn off any setting which would allow this!

[@danim8]

@caleb_Denison 6:44 you state that Digital created films do not have grain and that is "inserted in Noise" This is such a gross misunderstanding and bluntly not true. ISO of digital cameras do produce noise that is the equivalent of grain. Film grain is the structure of the silver halide crystals on film emulsion and digital cameras from Sonys, to Alexas all produce a noise that looks very much in the same realm of film grain. I am a VFX compositing supervisor, and when ever we work on a film that is either shot on film stock or a digital camera, we go to great lengths to match the noise/grain to be same as source. We do not add grain or noise to anything that wasn't shot that way to begin with. If a film has a lot of noise well that was the way it was shot. it was intended that way. Most compression algorithms end up soothing thigs over, but the amount of noise present in films and TV just isn't "forced" in there and should be for the most part left alone.

[@Yoga_Tv_buying]

Hey I learn something from u. I wonder why the industry has not adapted to it. I live 2-3 min Walk from IMAX theater. I saw the Avatar , Indianna Jones, Top Gun, Wanka, Openheimer, Thor…Omg the grainy stuff so not used to it. Having 3k 4k Glossy PC monitor , ipad etc. so not used to see the Mush as much”appatizing”. Its like someone force me to eat “medium rare” bloody steak 🥩, telling me its the “standard best way to eat fillet” “more juicy, preserve the juice” lol. 😝 That whole Film Industry is kinda stuck now.

[@PhantomRavn]

On my LG C1 I have full control over all picture settings while in FILMAKER mode, I can tweak and adjust these settings and the picture looks amazing

[@BenRiley83]

I have an OLED LG GX TV and a QD-OLED Alienware ultra wide monitor. So film maker modes, HDR mode, and Dolby Visions modes are my favorite. No complaints from me

[@Kaniac47]

This is a bit off-topic but still involves Filmmaker mode. I recently purchased an LG C3. When I use my Apple TV, both of the Expert modes (bright and dark), the Sports mode and the Auto Power save mode are unavailable. Filmmaker mode is only available under the advanced settings where the TV automatically uses it when the content is available for it. Filmmaker mode is not available on the main settings with the other picture modes, so I can't use it at will. When I watch TV on the LG web OS, all the modes are available (including Filmmaker) except Cinema Home, which is available when I watch Apple TV. Why are certain modes not available on Apple TV and Cinema Home is not available on web OS? Is there something in the settings I need to tweak or is this an issue with the Apple TV itself?

[@woodydawg77]

I just purchased a Samsung QN80c 75" with FMM enabled and calibrated, it looks amazing in day or night viewing! I have always been an adapter of whatever mode gets me closest to theatre like viewing. Weather it be MOVIE mode or ISF or Cinema. My eyes just like the way it looks. There is no right or wrong. Its YOUR eyes. Your TV. DO what you want with it! Though I must say when I see someone with a set that is not using one of those mentioned modes, I cringe lol.

[@DavidMander-rs4uk]

He bought Samshite 😆👎

[@Jza-GZa40k]

@@DavidMander-rs4uk Is bizarre deeming there’s many brands that are twice as good as samsung and has more features

[@DeshMeister]

Thanks for the analysis. I have an S95C and Filmmaker mode does suck in its basic form so I never use it. I'm one of those do-it-my-way Philistines and prefer different settings.

[@tylerthere5832]

My problem is with the mastering. In most cases I'm only wanting 30-50 extra nits for the apl of most scenes, but it's when I see a highlight that should be pushing the boundary of what my tv is capable of only hit 200nits... that bothers me. Hdr should depict contrast how we personally see things, but in my experience, it's almost always unrealistically dim while occasionally having a bright highlight and rarely taking advantage of the wider color spaces. I've found that older movies mastered for 4k blueray get all of these things right... I don't know why. I only started questioning how a movie looked or was mastered after I got into highend tv's. I had a tcl 4 series that would force an Hdr signal and looked horrible whenever it did, so I'd go out of my way to play movies where I could change the dynamic range. I got sick of that and chose to get a "real" Hdr tv and have been conflicted since.

[@tylerthere5832]

I will say that most 4k discs I buy look much better in Hdr than streaming. Shows almost always look to dark when streaming, other than a few Dolby vision masters that I've seen.

[@WiljanWiljan]

Thanks for this. I agree that filmmaker mode is too dark to watch the tv during daytime. With my samsung s95d my preferred setting is film mode. This mode works great for both day and night time

[@JRBowling1997]

12:03 what movie is this?

[@gony_kun]

Mad Max Fury Road probably

[@JRBowling1997]

@@gony_kun thanks

[@Burn_In_Oled_On_Purpose]

On my samsung 4k qled curve tv, I always use the dynamic mode video setting with hdr with the screen brightness maxed out and backlight maxed out. I use these settings intentionally for the most color saturation and to make the display very bright including hdr with dimming zones set to the lowest settings. I wish there was an option to completely turn off the dimming zones on my tv but since there is no option, I have the dimming zones on the lowest settings because I don't like dim displays. I even have power savings off and auto brightness off since power savings and autobrightness is too low and. I need the brightest settings with the most color saturation because I'm already used to it. I want the display to always be very bright like the equivalent of turning on a flashlight to its highest brightness settings. I'm used to using very bright displays since I developed the habit for so many years that I lost track of how many years that I max out the brightness 24/7 with static images on purpose.

[@Tromzy]

9:20 Some people don't like Filmmaker mode exactly because of that, they find the picture too yellow. But once you get accustomed to it, you can't go back to cold, blueish picture.

[@marcobonura.]

Filmmaker mode ha una temperatura colore fredda, tendente al blu.

[@notsorandumusername]

I have a Panasonic OLED that in Filmmaker Mode has perfect color accuracy in SDR and HDR and is a real pleasure to look at. But yes, Filmmaker Mode does assume that you're in a pitch black room which very few people are going to do. It would have been better if they had gone with Filmmaker Dark Room and Filmmaker Bright Room. I upped the brightness as well. No motion smoothing though, I really hate the soap opera effect and never notice judder. I just let the mediaplayer play out the original frame rate without tampering to higher rates. Never any issues with that.

[@haukionkannel]

Philips does that… they have FileMaker light and dark modes. It is good option. In winter the dark mode is fine. In summer… well light is ok, but oled just can not get bright enough…. But definitely better than dark mode.

[@oldmanx]

İ bought a new Samsung tv, turned on the filmmaker move and it looks exactly like my ten years old sony bravia out of box picture

[@LeezahB]

I found this video interesting and informative. I have a dumb question: My Sony TVs have Cinema mode. Is this the equivalent of Filmmaker mode in all respects?

[@thenonexistinghero]

I think it's a bit different, but IMO it's just best to avoid those modes altogether. Just spend some time tweaking the image so it looks best to you. These modes are meant to appeal to pretend film fanatics who don't really know anything. It's simply not going to bring you the best your TV can offer and it won't look close to what you'd see in the cinema either.

[@GadgetsGearCoffee]

Filmmaker mode on my LG C3 OLED even at 100 brightness, depending on the content itself, can still be a little dark

[@ajwtf6539]

How is motion

[@spandel100]

@@ajwtf6539 Perfect on LG G1.

[@dawie4853]

Very helpful video. Thanks

[@ARIKIP]

Best thing if accuracy is what you are after is to probably get your TV calibrated for both a dark and bright room. So a setting for daytime viewing and one for serious watching at night. My Sony and LG OLEDs have for example Dolby Vision Dark and light modes that do this for you..of course just for Dolby vision content.

[@robertdawood9920]

Best picture settings for lg g4 oled tv are,for hdr 10,go with film-maker, mode 👌 colour at 50,or 55,turn off dynamic contrast, turn off all clarity 😀 👍 apart from motion, turn off colour adjustment, for Dolby vision, use home cinema, mode with the same settings for hdr10,,enjoy 😮🤓🤓,also black level put on 49,or even 48,

[@jonathanparle8429]

I configure my TV (LG C4) to what looks good to me. I do not give a tuppence what settings anyone else uses and / or are supposed to be better or more correct. It's my TV and I am the only person who ever watches it. I doubt any of my settings would pass muster with the cinemaphile crowd to be honest and the more disjointed my settings are compared to theirs, the more content I am (because they look like crap on a consumer TV thought they might look great at the local cinema).

[@jakedizzle]

I wish filmmaker mode on the LG TV forcibly grayed out all the options. Sort of like how it does that when you’re playing video games like certain options aren’t available.

[@db4996]

My G4 I think is the same here but HDR and DV is unwatchable anyway due to Dolby vision soooo dark, no settings help Need vivid to help and cannot switch off DV so my new G4 is going back as unwatchable SDR is stunning though

[@michaelclark4855]

Another really helpful walk through video, thanks very much! 👍

[@MikeSmith-rh5gc]

I’ve been wanting to get a better 4k player that has HDR settings on it. I got the brightness and contrast so high it irritates me. I didn’t pay a lot for my tv cause I wanted a huge one but HDR on my player is dark. When I stream 4k, it’s not bad

[@jasmadahar9089]

Surely the picture mode you chose on your tele is the one your eyes prefer? I don’t like filmmaker mode as it’s far too dark to my eyes.

[@mr.y.mysterious.video1]

120 isnt divisible by 24. erm..... what!?

[@55stevieray]

Is this the same as "Cinema" mode?

[@BagheeraRaceGamer]

I still prefer to manually adjust picture using windows sdr calibration, and then using hdr calibration for peak brightness and bottom blackness. Apply settings to all sources, and then manually correct weird things in each source.

[@rudybriskar5267]

Glad I'm watching this and learning. 5:44

[@cryptonix02]

Filmmaker mode just doesn't appeal to me in my conditions. On my S90C, most HDR content in my non-light-controlled living room just looks too dark to make out any meaningful detail in the shadows, and bright images don't really feel all that bright. I've calibrated the colors and all that, and then I always leave Contrast Enhancer set to high. It blows out a little bit of the detail in the highlights, but bright scenes actually feel bright without overdoing it. Meanwhile Contrast Enhancer also breathes new life and detail into the shadows, as well as livens up a lot of the colors. I just really prefer a brighter, poppier image, even if it's less accurate to the "artist's intent". And with my current settings, it doesn't really blow out any details I'd otherwise care about. I think I'd be less inclined to boost the contrast and go for artist's intent if my TV was brighter in general, like some of the new Mini-LED TV's coming out. But last gen OLED's and their touted "1000 nits in a 2% window" just didn't provide an overall bright-enough image to convince me of Filmmaker Mode's superiority (which that mode on the S90C was very inaccurate out of the box anyways).

[@earthoid]

I only use Custom picture mode because to my eyes all the other Sony modes suck. I set it to look the most natural and it works for everything, then the only adjustment I make is the brightness of the backlight LEDs.

[@SilkMilkJilk]

what is it with the 24 doesn't fit in 120hz bs? is it maybe 120hz is in reality just 100?

[@paulcox2447]

24 does ➗ into 120. 5 times. That's why 60hz tv's had 3:2 cadence and 120hz can play it back without any motion judder from uneven cadence.

[@scotto9712]

So if your screen is 144hz refresh rate, does it display 24fps without judder (since divisible by 24?) - and then I'd assume each frame is 6 cycles?

[@Helladan]

theoretically yes, but in practice I think all current TVs suffer from this (judder).

[@ZZ21zx]

Theoretically no. As long as the frame rate is lower than refresh rate, there would be judder. Caleb didn’t seem to do a very good job explaining judder

[@MrCtmcclain]

I love this video. I'll keep this in mind when I digital load my home movies to watch on the 4k TV. Thank very much Digital Trends.

[@victorkoc6658]

Thank you ,great explanation.

[@mattsanchez4893]

I finally got a LG OLED TV, the C3, and I can tell you that Filmaker mode looks so much better on a 120hz OLED TV than on an LCD TV, as does Dolby Vision which used to drive me insane. So I guess my point is that it also depends on the TV you have.

[@ryans413]

I have a 55” LG C1 OLED and FMM sucks I don’t like it.

[@Squishmallows24]

I don’t like an overly bright image. When I watch Sdr movies on my a80j I have peak brightness turned off and luminance to max. The reason I do this is so the tv doesn’t fluctuate between brightness. If I were to use peak brightness at high and luminance to around 20 the picture darkens after awhile and that’s annoying.

[@sebastiaolopes6515]

There´s one thing no one considers which is eye strain. You watch tv at home from 9/12 feet up to maybe 20 feet (for 55-75 in). However, if you leave the room pitch black, your eyes iris will open very wide, to adapt to that darkness. Whenever the scene turns from dark to bright, your eyes with iris all open will be saturated with all that light and cause eye strain over time. That´s why I don´t watch tv at home in completely darknes. The best lighting for me is one or two not twoo bright lamps rigth and left of the tv, which will keep your iris not open all the way and you will have more eye confort. This is so true the Philips used to have the Ambilight models, which had LEDs projecting back to the wall from from each four sides, the average colors on the borders of the TV screens. That made wonders to reduce eye strain, because it would iluminate the walls in every scene (therefore your iris would never completely open). When you watch a movie in a theater you are too far away from the screen strain on your esyes would not be that significant. About soap opera effect it never bothered me. BTW, why are film makers stuck with ancient technology at 24 fps. New digital 4k cameras are more than capable to film at 60 hz, 120 hd. I don´t understand why movies need to have 24 fps, add digital noise to 4k cristal clear digital pictures and downgrade the whole image. Maybe what we need are (new) filmmakers thay will film 60 FPS (which is done all the time now), don´t artifical grains and all this BS, make the picture dull and dark, when ultimatelly many people don´t even bother to go to the movies. Then I´ll switch to film maker mode, when they start doinf something worth watching.

[@umayrdzulkifly5587]

6:48 What happened there?

[@PetersPianoShoppe]

“Filmmaker Mode bans all motion smoothing” Not ALWAYS… or to be more precise, there are occasions with specific TVs where you don’t have a filmmaker mode option. For example, an LG C8, when receiving Dolby Vision data, will give you “Dolby Vision Cinema” or “Dolby Vision Cinema Home” setting options in addition to the usually standard and vivid settings, but in both of those settings, the “Real Cinema” smoothing setting is defaulted to “On” and you cannot turn it off. This is because it defaults on for 24hz content. But it does create a little bit of an unnatural soap opera effect. It’s very annoying. I find that Sony OLED’s motion control is a step up from LG’s for 24hz content.

[@marvinsolano3981]

Who makes that camo polo shirt?

[@buschg7106]

Standard with adjusted settings is way better. Also, Samsung had a "natural" mode in old models, which was great.

[@paulcox2447]

120 divides into 24 and thats why 120hz tv's use 5:5 pulldown as opposed to 3:2 pulldown of 60hz tvs

[@roberth2627]

Thank ,God for film Making Mode. Film buff here.& a Boomer .Just got my 1st Smart T.V. hated the up scaling & other AI tools that made the film I was watching look like cut outs or a video game ( & why do younger folks hate gain..?). But than I found picture mode & Film making mode..I'm so glad I did..As far as watching in a pitch black room..Most of the time I watch my film classic films or others at night any way..Also I've seen most films I have in a theater, so I already know what that experience was like.

[@thoreberlin]

On LG TVs the isf-expert dark and bright room profiles are the best modes. Basically a colour calibrated TV out of the box and a brightness lifted compromise for daylight use.. This video is so ill informed that it hurts and misses to give actually good advice how to achieve a good picture in bright environments. Having absolute video standards and now devices that can actually hit target colours with delta-e below 3 out of box is a very good thing you seem to try to ruin here. The atract modes of TVs just introduce so many problems. It has gotten even worse on newer brighter models like G3 and G4. They are barely watchable out of box with their overbright solarising until you engage the filmmaker or isf modes.

[@pauldavid167]

I was looking for this comment. The ISF two modes are awesome. I couldn't watch his video. He talks at you like you are 10.