First Brake Upgrade! - Shimano Mechanical on XP3.0

[@rara20baby]

I hope this one is better and please do keep us updated because for me as a female its very helpful. I know nothing about bikes but watching your video is definitely expanding my mind. Thank you for all the updates 👍

[@LectricGo]

Glad to help! I'll keep you posted.

[@ttowen02271]

Nice

[@davidg5792]

I'm glad I found your channel, I got my bike last week and your videos are very helpful. Can you make a video explaining about how to make more Tight the chain? Thank you

[@LectricGo]

You're welcome! Glad you are finding my videos useful. The chain lengths on bicycles are set based on distance from pedals to rear wheel and with enough slack to get through the rear derailleur and shift smoothly. They can't be easily tightened like on a motorcycle. Enduro mountain bikes have a clutch in the derailleur to slow derailleur movement and chain slap but that would be extreme on Lectric bikes that are designed for smoother trails.

[@DonaldMays]

b pillar screw can increase chain tension

[@LectricGo]

I think your right. I remember reading something about that little mentioned adjustment years ago. I'll look into it but I don't think it will have as much of an impact as a full clutch would....being in a lower gear also helps with tension.

[@drewdorkhead]

Let us know how the Lectric supplied hydraulics compare!

[@LectricGo]

You can bet on it!

[@DonaldMays]

should have changed the cable and housing at least on the front the back one was probably too short

[@LectricGo]

Not sure I have enough miles on the original one to make it necessary.

[@salamdamai]

Where did you obtain the rubber cover for the foot peg? I think I need to purchase that to protect the brake rotor from getting damage when I fold the bike.

[@LectricGo]

It was an old motorcycle grip I had lying around. Motorcycle repair shops may have some old ones available for next to free.

[@salamdamai]

Thank you

[@Scott.Mariani]

Thanks for sharing. I guess the barrel adjuster threads are different between the Shimano Caliper and the factory Caliper and you had to cut the stop on the cable? I have the same issue with my 3.0. When I adjust the brakes they work great but after a couple days they start to fade and need adjustment again. I was thinking about trying the Xtec mechanically actuated hydraulic but I think I will wait for your report after a few weeks on the Shimano swap first. I didnt realize it was the same Caliper front and rear, just different spacers.

[@LectricGo]

The threads may be the same but I didn't even try because the threads on the stock caliper didn't look that great despite little use. I would hate to ruin the nice Shimano threads by forcing the weaker, sloppy barrel threads into it. I put 80 miles on the bike this week and the Shimano brakes are doing great so far.

[@Scott.Mariani]

@@LectricGo no adjustment necessary after 80 miles? Since this has a similar fixed inner pad adjusting screw do you attribute the difference to the pad quality or ? I notice my inner pad adjustment screw does not click (and I assume that is a detent) I wonder if it backs out on the Factory unit. Thanks again for the update.

[@LectricGo]

Surprisingly no adjustment needed. I attribute it to pad quality so far. On the original caliper, I don't believe the inner screw backs out. Looking at the original pad wear, it seems they just melt away quickly.

[@Scott.Mariani]

@@LectricGo Thanks. My rear brakes have been sticking lately, locking and not un-locking, I just adjusted the inner screw, again, and they are biting again. These brakes are a pain.