FIRST RIDE PREP - Removing Bad Fuel - Cleaning - BluThru Flush - Ceramic Wax | Wave Blaster II | Ep3

[@simonwallace699]

Nice video, good for beginners, and a really professional production. That's a really nice Blaster 2 - there's not many in that sort of condition. I flush for about 3 minutes as a minimum, sometimes longer depending on where I've been (I'm a Yamaha owner). 4-stroke Sea-Doos are 90 seconds max due to the carbon seal. I always ride in salt water and/or surf - my skis have never seen fresh water. There just isn't much of it in many parts of Australia. I always wash out the engine bay with a salt-destroying detergent and fresh water to rinse. Every now and then, I'll go a bit further and put in enough fresh water to cover the engine mounts, as the engine mounts often get salt/sand stuck underneath - 2 strokes in particular. I use Salty Captain for flushing and their detergent for the external/engine bay. There's plenty of good alternatives out there also - Salt Away, Salt Shift etc etc. So many of them nowadays. I'm not sure whether the additives make that much of a difference, but oh well. On one of my 2 stroke rebuilds about 14 years ago, I noticed a ridiculous amount of pebbles/sand in the bottom of the cylinder jackets - I was shocked. As I don't have a garage, I leave the seats propped open and the hoods off wherever possible for as long as possible, so they can dry out. Then either silicone spray or lanolin spray on absolutely everything metal. I go through heaps of the stuff. It doesn't matter - it's cheap compared to the hassle of dealing with corrosion damage. I've got a little portable wet/dry vac to get the last of the water out of the engine bay and footwells. I always find that there's more water in the bay the next day as everything settles/dries off. I've been jetskiing in salt since 1992 and salt is the only thing I worry about. You can never over-do your post-ride cleanup routine. Mine takes about an hour. Sounds a bit extreme, but when you think about the trailer also and your wetsuits/other gear, the time is worth it. I fit an electric bilge pump to every ski I own, to make engine bay washing so much easier - whatever the bilge can't pickup, the wet and dry vac takes care of. Plus, it's an awesome safety device in case you ever find yourself out there taking on water. It'll give you enough time to get to shore and figure out what's going on. One tip for dealing with corroded bolts etc which I had to deal with recently due to a second hand ski I picked up for cheap - use CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) in a spray pack - spray it on to a small wire brush. Scrub it on, leave it to sit for 3 minutes, then scrub it off followed by silicone spray or lanolin spray to protect it. It takes a few goes but will get rid of salt corrosion on stainless steel fasteners (Stainless is NOT rustproof). Just be a bit more careful on aluminium alloy - which is what the engine is made of. With the 4 stroke Yamahas, you generally want to put the nose of the ski down while you're flushing - seems counter intuitive I know. This is because the water goes straight down from the flush hose, 50% out the back and 50% to the engine. If it's tilted back you will struggle to get sufficient water flow into the engine when flushing.

[@classicjetskis]

Thanks for the detailed comment! It's clear you've put a lot of thought and effort into maintaining your skis, especially in challenging saltwater conditions. Thanks for the product recommendations like Salty Captain, Salt Away. Like you I’m not fully sold on if there is actually different additives to a good car shampoo... when you think a good car shampoo has additives in it to remove road grime etc... I think buy Marine based variants i.e. ‘GTechniq’ car vs marine is a good example, if you inspect the ingredients, they are the same, its just the branding that differs... Your advice on flushing, washing, and preventing corrosion is invaluable, especially for those new to the sport. The tip about using an electric bilge pump and a wet/dry vac is brilliant for keeping the engine bay dry and clean. Your methodical approach, including using silicone or lanolin spray and ensuring everything is dry, is a testament to why your skis remain in such good shape. Keep riding and maintaining those beauties! Thanks for watching and supporting dude 💪😎

[@coolboy4613]

Super cool great job keep it up

[@classicjetskis]

Thank you, really appreciate the support, thanks for watching dude...stay tuned, the next video is epic!

[@razorbeak7295]

I'm a two stroke sit-down owner as well, & I run mine in only salt water. When I get back to the house, I run corrosion inhibitor through my washout port and leave the jet ski idling with it attached for 15-20 minutes at a time. The ski's have overheat sensors and will tell you if it's getting too hot. Mine has never set off while doing this, so don't be afraid to let it have a good, long washout cycle; I've torn down & rebuilt many of these engines and not flushing well enough is absolute hell on the internal water jackets.

[@classicjetskis]

Thanks for the insight mate, that's actually really reassuring, I have always been pretty cautious with never running longer than 2 mins...Once I took one of my skis to a dealer and they told me the carbon seal will over heat if you run for took long...I understand what you're saying re sensors but what about general derogation of parts that can't really be monitored by sensors...Either way I'm totally aligned with flushing for longer as salt is a killer...prior to using bluthru I always never felt that just straight fresh water for 2 mins would lift the salt away... What salt inhibitor do you use? Thanks for watching dude appreciate the support 👌

[@razorbeak7295]

@@classicjetskis Here in the US, I use a product that's cheap & readily available called Salt-Away (I know, how original) but it has the same blue tinted dye to help you visually see the effects of the washout. As far as carbon rings, that is a Sea-Doo specific problem due to the difference in engineering of the jet pump vs Yamaha, and your dealer is correct: you absolutely do not want to run Sea-Doos for any longer than 2 minutes out of the water. But it's not a problem with Yamaha, which is what I have. Keep up the content, we love it!!

[@classicjetskis]

@@razorbeak7295 Nice! yeh I have seen Salt-Away, I actually tried to buy some in the UK but much harder to get over here, but as you say, its essentially the same thing. Thanks for the info on flush/run time out of the water, out of interest why does it say in the OG owners manual even on the Raider and Blaster not to run for longer than 2 mins...everything I have ever read points to not running them for much loner than this out of the water...(btw not discrediting what you're saying, just generally interested) as to be fair I would 1000% run on the flush for longer on my yams if its safe and won't damage any parts... Thanks for watching man...if you haven't already check out the first ride video, it was epic! ✌✌

[@koevlaas]

I bought a fuelline from an outboard motor and by skeezing the Ball a few times i can get the fuel out on gravity

[@classicjetskis]

I should have done the same lol, got there in the end though...now have guns like arnie lol Thanks for watching dude 👌✌

[@MigySaan]

Thinking about getting a pair of these . Looking to learn how to maintain and where to get parts for them. Any tips ? Beautiful machine by the way!

[@MigySaan]

I just love the way they ride. Insanely fun!

[@classicjetskis]

Great choice! I’ve got a Blaster 2 myself, and it’s such a fun machine to ride. It’s light, nimble, and just so responsive-perfect for carving up the water and having a blast. For maintenance, you don’t need to stress too much. Just keep an eye on the carb, check the fuel system, and make sure everything’s running smoothly. For parts, eBay and Yamaha-specific forums are great places to find what you need. Plus, there’s a good community of Blaster owners online, so you can get tips and recommendations for parts from others who are deep into their Blaster builds. And yeah, the Blaster 2 is a beautiful machine-definitely one of those skis that’s a blast to ride every time! Thanks for watching!

[@MigySaan]

@@classicjetskis thank you !

[@serafineightyfive]

i love the series, thank you for sharing! i've been searching for a WB2 in good condition for years now, but there are not many in germany and people want insane amounts for them even if they are nowhere near the condition yours is in. cant wait for the next episodes of the series. quick question however: do you think it's worth to focus on the '98 with the trim system or is the ride difference to a '97 negligible?

[@classicjetskis]

Thank you so much for watching and really buzzing that you like the series...Dude that sucks about the price vs quality in Germany...keep looking dude, you will find one...This reminds me of when I was looking for my dream XPDI, I looked for 3 years...Patience is the key...however since then I have got lucky and all of the classics have hit my lap so luck is a huge part of it dude....Yes the next video is truly going to be epic, editing it at the moment however got 200gb of drone, SLR and go pro footage...I wanted to make an epic ride video and that's what you're gunna get...stay tuned... Did the 97 not have the trim system? Interesting question did they change the handlebar rubber grips for one year on the 98 to the ones I have or are they generally wrong for this year? It confuses a lot of people as the blaster 2 was not made in 98 in many regions, I think I have one of the limited run 98 in the UK region... Thanks for watching dude 👌😎✌