Fisher 30 Ep 21 - Will the rubber hose be a safety hazard?

I bought a 1976 Fisher 30 Northeaster motorsailer in great need of "some" TLC.
Last year I did a lot on the exterior. Now it is mostly the interior. In this video i remove 4 old portholes, install the refurbished stuffing box, a new cutlass bearing and the old propeller shaft.

[@captlarry-3525]

In Chappel's classic book,"Boatbuilding", early on the master says "one of the most important things in the workshop is a chair where you can sit and look at your work." Such times are not wasted, ever.

[@hsobstad]

I am so glad I have not indeed waisted my time, just staring into thin air, while standing idle in the boat.

[@3in1Machining]

Wow, wait. That rope in the stuffing box should be soaked in graphite grease. Why, the damp dry rope will very quickly burn / rub a grove in your new shaft. Remember the sandy grease. Why was grease in there in the first place. You need lubrication. Remember your shafting with out lube. Think friction.

[@hsobstad]

@@3in1Machining Thanks for the warning. I do think these ropes are already treated with something. Feels a bit like candle wax to touch. The ropes are made for stuffing box purpose. But now I am surely going to check out on your warning. 👍

[@superblondeDotOrg]

@@hsobstad The "packing" is preloaded with wax from manufacturer so it should not need added grease. However, you cut it improperly, which is a big problem of perfection. It should be cut at an angle, so that the ends squeeze together. There are various videos on youtube on how to cut packing. Because the stuffing box packing is so important, it would be better to re-do this part to cut it properly.

[@hsobstad]

@@superblondeDotOrg Yes, it feels waxy. I thing the wax is actually tallow. Yes, I cut 90 degrees. I have had the same advice from another viewer. From the producers site it stated that both ways were acceptable. But I do agree your 45 degree sounds like a better way. I think the old ones were - as far as I can tell - cut 90 degrees. (see previous video, EP 20 at 23:37). Since I have already done this I think I will test it out. I bring with me your advice no matter and will cut the next "packing" at 45 degrees. Thanks.

[@littlegreenman.6197]

Two things, I constantly walk around my garage Workshop thinking the other is. It's good to have friends who can help even if they will sue you afterwards. 😂😂👍👽

[@hsobstad]

True. Friendship is support. And having a friend to drink beer with after hard work is great!

[@percyadler4318]

When I left my boat in harbour I flushed the engine with fresh water and pumped up the stern gland with grease as you will always get that trickle of sea water in the bilge .Love to see u on youtube

[@hsobstad]

Smart! I did not flush the engine as I (at the time) figured I will splash it late summer. Now it is too late. Thanks for watching. Glad you like the videos. :-)

[@pelageos]

warmly welcome! I missed the video where the mast was removed, is it there? it would be interesting. you have removed all the bulkheads, partitions inside, now you need to handle the roof of the cabin very carefully. I should note that you are an incorrigible optimist! 🙂 I watch your videos and understand that for 5 decades the yacht has rotted completely, but you continue to sculpt it piece by piece anew! this is amazing! I wish you strength and successful completion of the project! so that you can go to Sea with your daughter on the yacht of your dreams and soul

[@hsobstad]

Hi. Thank you for positive commenting. I am sorry to tell you I did no video of the removing of the masts. It was only later i discovered it might be of interest to others if I did some videos. Now I document almost everything. Thanks for watching. :-)

[@pelageos]

@@hsobstad well, i hope that may be, we will get video when you will put mast on step. Loking forward to this.

[@michaellunt8260]

Great work! All I would add is “always remove the last screw first”.

[@hsobstad]

Thanks! If you remove the last screw first - it will be by definition the first screw (to be removed). :-D

[@peterbelow5129]

Helge - your videos are amazing! Keep up the excellent work and refit of your Northeaster.

[@hsobstad]

Thanks for telling me, Peter. It brings energy and motivation. :-)

[@tigerjongreen]

Hi Helge, thanks for another interesting and informative video. Keep them coming please. Your boat is a beauty and deserves to be returned to her former glory.

[@hsobstad]

Hi John. I am so happy you keep watching our videos. Very motivating! And you are our no 1 SuperThanks-er. :-)

[@robertpettigrew9042]

Excellent job in inserting the cutlass bearing. I didn't think that your home freezer and those little torches would generate enough of a temperature difference!

[@hsobstad]

Thanks Robert. I was - to put it mildly - VERY surprised when the cutlass bearing just popped in.

[@robertscholz4486]

Hi Helge ... I wouldn't worry too much about the jubilee clamps, as the spring tension should keep the bolts from loosening -- since the boat will be on the hard for the winter, the grease will likely loose some of its moisture by spring anyway. You are not alone ... we all get distracted making plans on top of plans, but that just helps enhance the final outcome! One note ... I didn't see you grease the prop shaft or the cutlass bearing before the install --you might want to do that before test running the propeller once everything is all hooked back together!! Keep up the great work!

[@hsobstad]

Hi Robert. Thanks for kind and supporting comments. I did not grease the shaft. I only sprayed the cutlass with some silicone to lubricate it while insterting the shaft. I will not run the propeller before the boat is splashed and the cutlass has water for lubrication, and the stuffing box has been fairly well lubricated with new grease. Thanks again, Robert.

[@captlarry-3525]

When you consider the danger posed by a broken Thru-hull - how quickly it can flood the boat, and how difficult it can be to plug. Multiply that by 3 for a failed shaft log hose. Here are the problems: 1 access deepest part of the bilge, often difficult to get to. 2. Can't use bung, plug or usual measures, because there is a shaft in the hole. So the options are rags, goop, or perhaps a strip of closed cell foam precut to fit ? This is one application where you want the best fit and toughest material you can get, and then have it blessed by a virgin.

[@hsobstad]

The rubber hose is VERY though! As long as the jublee clips is compressing it then all is okay. Otherwise you might be spot on if the clips fails...

[@duncanjames914]

Hi Helge and Sara! Brake cleaner is like Bacon. It makes everything better. Another great video of your restoration journey for the Fisher 30. I'm of the vintage that has me walking into a room looking for something and forgetting what the hell it was moments later! 😄 So yes, I get it Helge!

[@hsobstad]

Brake cleaner is like Bacon. Haha! Thats a new one. I like it! That kind of forgetting I have had for years. Worries me a bit... ;-)

[@duncanjames914]

It's best not to overthink it and just enjoy the moment when you remember. 😀@@hsobstad

[@hsobstad]

@@duncanjames914 🤣👍

[@michaelhearns8018]

Hi Helge, Just watched your last episode, When you put tape over your paint work I use a product called ‘ panel wipe ‘ This product removes the glue from the tape. Panel wipe is an automotive product that spray painters use to wipe down their surfaces before spray painting. You mentioned you didn’t like using duct tape because of the glue. This product you would put on a clean rag and wipe over the tape before removing and then re wipe once the tape is removed. I use this product regularly. I hope this is of help when using any tape on paint surfaces…. Regards Michael 👍👍

[@hsobstad]

Hi Michael. Thanks for that input. You are absolutely correct. I have experienced duct tape - once being there for a while - it seems to dissolve and leave the glue, creating a lot of work to remove the glue. I will look for that product here in Norway. :-)

[@sandgrounder1960]

enjoying the boat refurbishment the gland seals will do fine when the tube is filled with grease also

[@hsobstad]

Thanks for sharing your opinion. I will compress further when the shaft has run some hours. Will see if four seals is one to many...

[@omvaren]

I like the video a lot! Entertaining and not boring. I know there are days that you achieve nothing you can photograph. Still, without thinking, you will end up doing everything twice! By the way...the stuffing box will eat the fourth ring in no time... The quality of the rubber hose is OK...no worries. Your choice of hose clamps is excellent.

[@hsobstad]

Thanks for professional comments, and such a kind feedback! I am glad you liked it. So you think the rings will compress in the stuffing box, so that I can keep all four? Time will show us.

[@nuttick]

@@hsobstad Fourth ring of packing was probably added when the first three rings became worn too thin and leaked too much even when the gland follower was adjusted all the way in. Or maybe the original packing material was thinner? If you can't get the gland follower to go into the casing even a little bit, then take out one ring of the new packing. Thanks for the entertaining videos. Always looking forward to the next one!

[@hsobstad]

@@nuttick Thanks for that input. I have thought something of the similar. I sure will consider removing one ring. Thanks for watching 👍

[@omvaren]

the rings will compress a little over time. You put 4 in when it is possible. not enough room?...put 3 in and the fourth a year later@@hsobstad

[@captlarry-3525]

Re-sealing the big windows in the pilot house is a very common task in the Fishers. This is a good opportunity to remove any corrosion with dilute phosphoric acid. I found i needed to remove and rebed the bronze portlights on my 30.

[@hsobstad]

I will do the pilot house windows later. Those are keepers. Not sure about the cabin portholes...

[@brianbeales6520]

I worked a a company called Fairways Marine (1974-78) I worked building Northeasters. Your yacht may be one of the Northeasters I built. There where only three built on that line at a time, unlike the Fisher lines.

[@hsobstad]

Hi Brian. That is extremely cool. This Fisher was: Job no 069, hull no 56, date of build start: 5th January 1976. So there were three Northeasters being build at the same time. May I ask how long it tok to build a Northeaster? And what separated them from the Fisher 30, other then a wider beam? Thanks for commenting, Brian. - Helge :-)

[@brianbeales6520]

@@hsobstadOn average it took 5 weeks to build a North Easter. Two fitting out, One engine fitter, One Deck fitter, one electrician and Upholsterers, Painters etc. It was full time for the Boat builders and deck crew, and the others when required. The main visual difference was the front windows in the wheel house on a North Easter leaned backward and had side entery and all the Fishers wheel house leaned forwards and had a cockpit with door on the aft end of the wheelhouse. As I mentioned there where three North Easters in build at a time.

[@hsobstad]

@@brianbeales6520 Only five weeks. My restoration will probably take five years 🙂 Very interesting info. I did know about the visual differences. I was more curious about any less visual technical differences between the Fisher 30/Fisher 31 and the Fisher 30 Northeaster. I have understood that the Northeaster is the Fisher 30 hull, cut i half, hinged on the keel and then pulled apart, making it wilder (26cm?) and slightly flatter in the bottom-structure, than the Fisher 30. But weight is the same and the sailarea is the same. Or is it? If you have any info to share, feel free to communicate with me directly via mail : [e-mail]. Thanks for posting, Brian. Much appreciated. 🙂

[@littlejohnny47]

I am surprised you did not use a drip less stuffing box seal. We used one made by PPS or something after enduring endless drips and constant water in the bilge after any time away from the boat. Can not say we had dust in the bilge after fitting the drip less shaft seal but it was pretty close!

[@hsobstad]

There are several reasons for that. Firstly I am quite familiar with the PSS carbon/stainless sealing "stuffing" box, as I have it in my motorboat. Works well. I did how ever choose to refurbish the old stuffing box as it was in good shape, which came out about $500 cheaper than buying a new PSS. Secondly I dont mind it dripping a bit as this boats bilge will be wet anyway and it has a very deep sump in the stern, to collect bilge water. Thirdly the PSS box is based on having watercooling. That is normally fixed so some of the cooling raw-water from the engine, that otherwise cools the exhaust, is directed via a tube down into the PSS box. But on this boat the engine is situated underneath the waterline. That means the cooling tube will need a siphon valve to prevent seawater from drowning the engine when it is not running. So I just found that the old way with classical stuffing box works well with this boat. :-)

[@captlarry-3525]

Round plastic bottle brushes are cheap, come in many sizes, and are very positive in their cleaning action, and cleanable. Attached to something semi-rigid like plastic conduit or water pipe..they can aggressively scrub your stern tube. I used one to clean a very grungy water bladder to perfection.

[@hsobstad]

You are right about that. I am obviously too cheap to buy those... ;-)

[@captlarry-3525]

Well there are several more jobs to cross off the list !

[@hsobstad]

Can´t see the end of the list....! ;-)

[@simonpritchard6074]

Welcome back to my living room Helge! I'm not sure about greasing the jubilee clamps, if there's vibration the grease might make it easier to work loose??? But what do I know, I'm only an old chippy without a boat. A pretty hopeless attempt at hiding in a green salad because I could see you captain. Have fun stuffing your box and try not to laugh too much.

[@hsobstad]

Thanks, Simon. Yes, I am a bit worried if the greasing might be a bad thing. It was good for clamping though... The salad is actually Gunnera manicata. I like them as they are really rough. :-)

[@roadboat9216]

Nicely done! A lovely boat worth the effort. And effort you are putting in! PS. Love your humor. Ha ha

[@hsobstad]

Thanks, Fred. We will do our best to keep it coming.

[@christhomson8001]

Hi Helge! Front mast name in English.....'Main mast' Rear mast name...'Mizzen Mast'. Also 'Cutlass bearing should be spelled 'Cutless' meaning a rubber bearing with no cuts! Enjoying the videos very much. Keep going!'

[@hsobstad]

Hi Chris! Thanks for correcting my english. In my previous business-life in the financial business I was quite fluent. Now, after years of just Norwegian, I am quite rusty (is this a valid expression?). And when it comes to nautical terms it gets even worse.... ;-)

[@christhomson8001]

Hi again Helge. Your English is just fine my friend. Lets be honest, your English is much better than my Norwegian!! Your videos are so interesting to me as I did the same thing (or similar) with a twin diesel motor cruiser some years back. I started with the idea that I could just tart it up a bit, but as you will understand, the further you get into it, then the more work presents itself. In the end, it took more than two years! And then of course.....I sold it!! Such is life. Hang in there Helge, we are all watching here. Good luck and kind regards, Chris@@hsobstad

[@hsobstad]

@@christhomson8001 Thanks, Chris 🙂

[@woden20]

I also have thinking only days, that's when you get your best ideas. Nothing is worse than building it one way only to realize later when using the boat it needs doing another way. I have an ebay chinese diesel heater for winter as I work on and use my boat all year round they are fantastic.

[@hsobstad]

Thanks for understanding :-)

[@normanboyes4983]

Helge - I absolutely love your videos and sense of humour, good to ‘meet’ your lawyer friend especially as he has a sense of humour - that’s very unusual - not the sense of humour - but a lawyer having a friend.😉 Don’t beat yourself up about thinking - it’s just as important as grinding fibreglass or making sawdust.😉 You did some really good work in this episode, if I may offer some technical comments: 1. The rubber looks a good enough fit on the stuffing box and there is no harm in grease on the jubilee clip bolts. 2. The stuffing box packing rings should have been cut ‘on the bias’ - ie at 45 degrees rather than 90 degrees - it would also be recommended to give them a smear of grease as you insert them - as the actress said to the bishop. 3. Stuffing box again - three turns of packing will be enough for commissioning they will relax over time and then you can whack in the fourth - after that during a docking you need to remove all four and repack. 4. Stuffing box again - I think the studs may be too short, even with three packing rings I am not at all sure there is enough space to get two nuts on each stud (so that the forward one acts as a locknut) - having a locknut is a very ‘nice to have’. 5. Engine alignment and mounts - it is normal to get the rough alignment sorted by shimming between the engine bearers and mounts - you can do this initially with plastic spacers (cheap at builders merchants) and then when you have defined the requirement make up steel shims. You can then dial in the alignment with the adjusting bolts.

[@hsobstad]

Hi Norman. Thanks for commenting. I am glad you (still) like our videos. I will continue to work, though it gets harder with colder temperatures. And also periods of inefficiency. My neighbor and friend is a kind person, that is why he has (lots of ) friends, even though being a lawyer 👍😊 Comments to the technical comments. 1. Great. 2. I did read there are two ways of cutting them, 90 and 45. I am sure your way is better. I will however try out the packing before changing it. 3. Agree. 4. They are original length. I have two sets of nuts to each stud. That will be mounted. 5. Interesting. I am not looking forward to this job....

[@iancullen954]

I do enjoy your sense of humour 👍 On a different tack i was trying to work out what the motorcycle next to the Yamaha SCR was ? Looked like it may have a boxer engine at a quick glance.

[@hsobstad]

Thanks Ian. Are you referring to the scene at about 12:15. Behind me you find the SCR 950 on the left and Triumph Street Twin 900 to the left. No boxers anymore (i used to have a BMW R1200C Montauk some years ago). :-)

[@iancullen954]

@hobdtad I didn't think the headlight looked like one from a BMW. Two nice bikes you have and an interesting one from your past. I didn't know they made so many variants of the R1200C. Being an overweight middle aged chap I have a R1250GS - which is pretty much compulsory in the UK.

[@hsobstad]

@@iancullen954 The R1250GS is a ship. Way to heavy for my aging back (I have some structural damages in my back). So to extend the life as a motorcycle rider I have bought a CRF300 Rally for touring. Very light and great for meg. The SCR 950 will probably be sold. For urban use i have a CE 04. The Street Twin belongs to a friend (it is in winter storage).

[@superblondeDotOrg]

08:30 Stick some butyl rubber putty tape (marine grade) in the holes. It removes easily later. Then finally put new butyl putty when mounting the hardware to seal it water-tight.

[@hsobstad]

Thanks for your advice. I will look for such tape. I will use butyl when mounting the hardware, as I did on my previous sailboat (Dragonfly 800). Great stuff. :-)

[@alan-sk7ky]

7:57 Helge, as Peter over at Travels with Geordie calls it 'analysis paralysis'

[@hsobstad]

Yes! That is exactly how it feels at times :-)

[@tigerjongreen]

Thanks

[@hsobstad]

Thanks a lot, John, for your support to this channel. Much appreciated!!!

[@hesseldijkstra5327]

I would suggest to use two nuts on each threaded end the last a torque nut with nylon inserts for preventing it to become loose. Boats have sunk by nuts coming loose due to vibration of the engine.

[@hsobstad]

Thanks. Do you mean at the stuffing box? That is the plan. I did however not manage to squeeze the forth stuffing rope far enough into the box to make space for the extra nut on each bolt. :-)

[@brantnorthman9040]

Anti-seize rather than grease on your clamp bolts.

[@hsobstad]

Yes.... Too late now. I added grease to be able to squese the rubber hose extra hard.

[@duncanjames914]

Thanks!

[@hsobstad]

Oh Duncan. You again! Thank you so much for your support! I love it! :-)

[@duncanjames914]

It is my pleasure. A small gift to express my appreciation. @@hsobstad

[@snowgorilla9789]

Moments of doing nothing physically on the boat now while exersizing your mind will require less physical REWORK later. Consider loosening and re tightening the rubber hose now that everything is aligned, in the vid it appears stressed in one direction or maybe the camera angle. You can see in the vid as you released the stuffing box. Keep up the good work from Canada

[@hsobstad]

Sure hope you are right (the mind thing leading to less work later). Yes, I agree. I will loosen the clamps on the rubber hose for alignment. :-)

[@guyb30]

Just a thought when putting the three rope seals in I think you are meant to grease them thoroughly before inserting rather than putting the rope in dry. Might be worth double checking.

[@hsobstad]

Yes, I got another tip on that as well. The ropes i inserted is produced for use in a stuffing box. They seems to be treated with something already. Feels like candle wax to touch. I will surely check this issue. :-)

[@clementgoetke2385]

nope

[@hsobstad]

@@clementgoetke2385 Nope like not necessary to grease, right?

[@clementgoetke2385]

not necessary@@hsobstad

[@boatmanmark1983]

Looking good Captain! Will you be able to work on her over the winter?

[@hsobstad]

Thanks. Yes I will, but the yard is getting stuffed with boats. As long as I have electricity that should work. But bad and cold weather makes it harder, so I might slow down a bit ;-)

[@theresnobodyhere5778]

i would,nt change those front engine mount bolts if theyre epoxied in get extender nuts 3 inch long also put locking nut screw that on first then put the extender nut on then ,just use a two inch long bolt to hold the mount into the extension nut

[@hsobstad]

The engine mounts are not epoxied. Easy to change (but expensive). Reading your input I come to think I might instead put in raisers at the engine bed, underneath the engine mounts. Will look a bit untidy though...

[@theresnobodyhere5778]

@@hsobstad put a small block of wood drill oversized hole put it over the extender nut paint it up with bilge paint it wont look bad

[@hsobstad]

@@theresnobodyhere5778 Might do that. Time will show. Thanks for sharing your advice.

[@Jonathanbaker]

four new engine rubber mounts they go bad with time.

[@hsobstad]

Hi Johathan. They are only 6 years old. Do you think they are gone bad already?

[@Jonathanbaker]

Hi Helge they will be fine just some thing to think about@@hsobstad

[@stephenjdixon1]

I do get the humour

[@hsobstad]

We´re in it for the fun. I hope it is your kind of humor. Otherwise I guess you will not watch anymore. And that would be a pity ;-)

[@stephenjdixon1]

@@hsobstad we have a saying "tongue in cheek" sort of subtle. its fine

[@hsobstad]

@@stephenjdixon1 I love balancing humor with irony. Thanks, Stephen 👍😊

[@stefanhellemar4501]

Dina portlightes (fönster) är snygg modell , de är nog dyra o köpa 😮

[@hsobstad]

Tack Stefan. De gir mye lys, men er dessverre krevende å få reservedeler til.