My favorrite axes are: Müller Biber-Canada (great for chopping/delimbing, Hultafors HY0.9 (this is my boys axe, for when go camping etc) and HY1.5 (this compliments perfectly, the Biber Canada,great for bucking or felling a bit bigger trees), Fiskars X7 (my hatchet always next to my stoves woodpile and X27 (the obvious, my spliter). All these are not just perfect tools for what they were designed for, but a good value too. I'm more of a user, than a collector, but lately, I can't stay away, from a decent axe, esxpeially,when winter comes,because I burn wood for both heat and cooking,since I was a kid. Now 43.
@AwakeningWARRlOR6 ай бұрын
Good advice. The best technique is to not hit the wood dead center, hit the edge and the axe will never get stuck in green wood.
@greekveteran27156 ай бұрын
A tip: All new knives or axes, have to be reprofiled or sharpened, before first use. Also, for a steel to show it's true potential, the axe or knife, has to be sharpened, for at least 3 full shaprening sessions. Only then, you can tell if the edge needs tuning, or the steel/heat treatment, is ok. Only then, you will see, what's the edge retention capabilities of your tool, and the edge stability. I won't explain the reasons, it will take long, but I'm sure, you will notice the edge holding performance, getting better, the more you sharpen the tool. A slight convex geometry, as also removing the burr properly, will improve the performance of the tool evem x10 ! People who complain about chips or rolls, or poor edge retention, do not know what I just mentioned, that's why they do complain.(in most cases at least)