Fitness Training on a Fingerboard

[@mitchellbaker4806]

Man her explanatory videos are so respectful of our time, every second is on point.

[@SonnyKnutson]

Probably of her time too ^^

[@TristanCleveland]

Super useful. Especially appreciated that you laid out what the whole week should look like, as this is often left out.

[@catrina758]

Thank you so much, Shauna, for all your videos. I am really enjoying them and they help a lot in figuring out which exercises to do whilst being off the wall! You explain everything amazingly well, definitely makes workouts a lot better.

[@Gokulpraveen]

This is an eye opener, Shauna. I just started hang-boarding close to my max hang weight and my fingers took forever to recover. I'm going to follow your 30%-40% repeaters workouts by using resistance bands to take off weight and see how I improve. Would love to see a video on how one could manage climbing days and hang-board days in a week and still stay injury free?

[@gustavhviid4673]

Who the hell would dislike this vid? Nothing to dislike!

[@tavhelz]

One of, if not, the best video out there 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽

[@wokex]

Those slippers look super nice and chill... Also great instructions and workout, thank you for posting!

[@technomancer_066]

Wow great video!! Super helpful!

[@joethompson11]

This is so helpful, and explains my session today being so intense, it was anaerobic! thank you 😊

[@billybones4950]

Thankyou so much for your videos Shauna. I have used them almost exclusively to formulate my own fingerboard routine as a beginner to the board. I’m such a huge fan. I have just got back into climbing in between lockdown 1 and 2 after 10 years off. I used to climb at Awesome Walls a lot at the same time you were there when I was a student in Liverpool.

[@daddydojang]

Thanks Champ! Very generous sharing this with us.

[@raphaelgallais-pou8673]

That's really well explained ! Great vid :D

[@wongeggyork8789]

Yass Im starting today! Thanks

[@dagahk1]

This was really great! You're a good teacher! Thanks!

[@jon-williammurphy9780]

Miscalculation in the Aerobic Intensity: Max Possible Load on fingers = 100 kg, 30% intensity = 30 kg load on fingers, and for 70 kg human that mean 40 kg assistance, not 30. But thanks for the vids, solid gold during these times! Give the chaps over at Lattice some competition!

[@deanhill1971]

Thanks. I also thought the aerobic value should be 40 kg assistance.

[@jodywren2212]

A very good video. Well explained.

[@edwardoakley8659]

So clear and concise

[@redvill]

Great videos. I'm waiting for more! Greetings from Poland! :)

[@bad0beef]

Great instructions. very useful and professional. Beginners beware and take this very easy to avoid injuries

[@robdb1993]

Love this !! Recently got into bouldering. Subbed

[@eoinlarkin1185]

This video was so good. Really clear!

[@carlosmayorca4642]

Awesome video! Thanks!

[@groenhaerd]

This is really informative, thank you!

[@rshoubart]

Well done!!! You've condense and simplified this so well :)

[@caseycronan9217]

Great explanation!!

[@blanejnasveschuk6351]

Valuable training rationale and synopsis. TY!

[@AJHDC]

Thanks for the proper good explanation!

[@EricBurbeck]

Really nice video, thanks!

[@FinianBlaxhall]

Yes! nearly ready to put up me hangboard in my van

[@thepie4052]

Amazing focus......great vid 😎

[@szkleni]

Clear explanation, straightforward, simple. Just the way I like it! Thank you very much for the effort making these videos! :)

[@jonnes__4657]

Thx for the good instructions. You have a room with steel beams on the ceiling, nice! Instead of assistance weight I use my big toes (weight sensor). The hang board installation is high enough. .

[@MrNathBlack]

Very clear explanations, thanks. Only warming part is missing

[@lawleight626]

This is pretty damm knowledgeable. Honestly I just do core workouts while hanging and then add weight to rest . My pullups are done with L sits so there pretty hard in that manner.

[@seanstone2980]

Thanks for the video! At 5:17 you say you do 2 sets per session with 10 min between. Are you saying that you do 20 sets of 6 rep repeaters with 10 min rest between sets 5 and 6 for a total of 120 reps? Basically 2 aerobic sessions per day, 3 times a week?

[@ReeceTheFreeze]

Yiep thats what she said😅 Sounds hard to you too?

[@uzzadnun]

I was curious about this too. Although wouldn't the 10 min rest be between sets 10 and 11 if she's doing 20 in a session? I'm surprised by how much aerobic training she does especially for someone who leans towards bouldering.

[@michael-lucanatt8009]

I think she’s saying 2 sets of the training workout she put up. It says 10 minutes of repeaters (10 sets) and 10 minutes of rest with a minute of rest btw each set (or minute of repeaters) for a total of 20 minutes. So she probably does that 20 minute set (10 sets of 1 minute repeaters/ 10 min total rest) takes a whole 10 min block rest, then does the 20 min workout again for a total of 50 minute session, 3x a week.

[@DennisDural]

lovely!

[@marthakarpeter9260]

how exactly did you measure "the maximum you can hang on an edge for"?

[@thomasstegen3507]

The max weight you can hang with for 7 seconds. 2 minutes pause per attempt. Increase weight until failure. No more than 8 attempts.

[@fongwee]

You can watch Lattice videos on how it is done or use their app. Principle is to start low and increase weight by 2.5 - 5kg on successive attempts to failure in 6-8 attempts with 2-3 minutes between each attempts.

[@noahcrossingham9523]

Super helpful thanks

[@amarisvelez5440]

I'd be interested in a yoga for climbers video.

[@synthoraxx8646]

Would it be better to go for more assistance on a smaller hold or less on a bigger one on my Fingerboard to lower difficulty? Love the training videos! Thanks!

[@mikerockell8590]

Great video.Nice and clear and informative. Do you know what your AWC, CF and MVC are?

[@fongwee]

Hi Shauna, great and informative video. Any reasons for preferring a 7/3 vs 10/5 hang time?

[@nrsloan1]

Do you use a four finger, half crimp position for all of your sets?

[@andonandonov3446]

Respekt from Bulgaria

[@jdsc100]

Greats vids..I’m prob being stupid but what should the rest between reps be? So, on aerobic, 7s hang 3rest (x6), rest after each 6 reps (? Bit I’m not sure on), then 1 min rest after each set (x10). Need this for both aerobic and anaerobic. Thanks a lot

[@Cacovangor]

Yup you are correct. Basically she factors in the brief break between reps as time under tension, thus 7/3x6 is 1min, and for aerobic capacity the rest should be 1min, whereas for anaerobic capacity the rest should be between 2-3min.

[@EmanuelRoll]

Why is 3 sec rest in the repeaters considered time under tension? Because the rest is so short?

[@bobbyspity]

Can you link details on the pulley your using pls

[@ShaunaCoxseyClimber]

This is the one I have just ordered :) eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/pulley-BD6200200000ALL1.html

[@thomasdenk4143]

Do you recommend doing both Aerobic and anaerobic in one session? Thanks!

[@TheOneAnOnlyGuy]

Hi and thanks for your tips! I alwasy found the 3sec break very 'hectic' in repeaters, yo I'm currently doing 7 sets of 6s hang/6s off/6 reps. Do you think it reduces the quality if the break between hangs is 6s long?

[@LamboLapdog]

👊👊

[@marcschumann115]

Did you ever get a numb finger from climbing too hard?

[@Alberto29081985]

❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@Jookyforever]

Do you do any training on other holds or do you just focus on weight adjustment on the main crimp hold with the four fingers? Also, great video thank you. Also also, you are beautiful.

[@ShaunaCoxseyClimber]

I do all of my endurance training in half crimp as I find that to be the most useful.

[@AG-qv2tk]

would you recommend hanging until faillure, about 10 times, with about 5 min rest inbetween each hang? (edit: as max. strength training i should add)

[@Cacovangor]

The time until failure is important, if anything greater than 15secs then you’re not working maximum finger strength but aren’t on the board enough to target anaerobic or aerobic capacities.

[@marcmongango]

si usas esto.....cuidado con la tendinitis !! no lo explica el manual de uso.

[@peteranton6951]

If you max is 70kg + 30kg, you re at 100kg. Adding 30kg assistants brings you to 40kg what is 40% and not 30% for aerobic training. And, yes. If you hang 7sec rest 3 sec than 1 set is 6x7 hang time = 42sex and 18sec rest. 10 sets is so 7min hang and 3min rest

[@shinraninja]

doesnt respond to comments lel

[@ShaunaCoxseyClimber]

I do...

[@eric752]

Why is it no dance in this video 🤣

[@xmnemonic]

that body