Fitting Jeans using The Top Down Center Out Pants Fitting Method

[@momzilla9491]

Hi J. This is a dream lesson. Brilliant! Just wanted you to know how much this lesson will mean to me once I have had some time to grieve, scream and cry. My husband died 10 days ago. I'm just taking a breather. You haven't lost me as your favourite fan. I plan to loose myself in Ally McBeal reruns for a while, while I miss my best friend. XOX

[@JSternDesigns]

I'm so sorry to hear... sending you prayers and hugs. I'm here if you need me xox

[@momzilla9491]

@@JSternDesigns I'm glad to be one of your circle of long time students and consider you a friend. I just didn't want you to worry.

[@JSternDesigns]

@@momzilla9491 :) It always makes me smile when I see your questions or comments... I consider you a friend too! Hugs!

[@lorieburtt592]

I’ll be watching this one again and again! I absolutely love the TDCO method. It has quite literally changed my approach and, more importantly, my attitude towards pant making. BUT, I also absolutely love that you will continue to focus on traditional pant fitting methods. There is a need for both. TDCO offers a quick-start, intuitive approach, and often addresses everything necessary for a very good fit. But, it doesn’t solve every fit issue. You are an absolute treasure! ❤️

[@JSternDesigns]

:)))) Thank you, I'm finding that this is true, TDCO is amazing to balance the front/back leg. It also reduces the number of traditional pants fitting adjustments that may be necessary to fine tune the fit!

[@trufflesmom1]

Haven’t tried this yet but have watched your videos and The Crooked Hem. The one tip you gave re if your thighs touch and you need more fabric in the inside I found very interesting. I wish Ruth Collins had straight videos. I find Instagram a bit of a challenge for some reason.

[@JSternDesigns]

:) So happy to hear! Keep me posted if you have specific questions, I'm happy to help!

[@reneemorgan9320]

Yeah I find some of the graphics explaining this method on Instagram kind of confusing. I guess I don't have an engineering brain so I can't quite wrap my head around some of the diagrams. I am much better at seeing it on a person or even a pattern piece.

[@christinemartin9933]

So good Jen, love that you share, lots to learn and such a great help

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much! ...and thank you for fitting along with me

[@angelajester3453]

I've been looking for the trim between the seams of a ready to wear top so I could copy it forever. But today I learned it's not a trim, it's a technique!

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Yes that sneaky little flat fell seam!! Thanks for watching

[@amysheridan4496]

Thanks for this video Jen, I look forward to seeing your future pants videos. I had already decided that 2023 was going to be the year of pants and jeans for me too! So I will be following along to learn from you. 😊

[@JSternDesigns]

I'm so happy to hear that! 2023 is going to be a great year for pants fitting!

[@victoriahannah1633]

Love the ways you show us how to alter & fix those patterns. I found the TDCO did help me get a better fit in my crotch area & my high & low hip area. I did have a friend who helped me taper my leg in on outer & inner leg seams. After 2 knee replacements & osteoporosis it can really be challenging to get to my lower legs. I’ve got everything basted & marked & can’t wait to get back home to Virginia take them apart & put them back together correctly.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you so much, and I'm so excited that you're working TDCO to fit your pants and to see how they come out. Also happy you have a friend to help you fit the leg seams

[@reneebylund6318]

I love this new fitting method I think this will be helpful with my fitting issues and also something I could use in my own fitting classes . Would love to take a class on this live!

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Yes!! It does make pants fitting so much easier! Thank you for fitting along with me

[@NadoCrowFriend]

Brilliant!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much! ...and thank you for watching

[@lorieburtt592]

This is great! Fitting jeans is always complicated by that back yoke. Since that yoke actually represents/replaces the shaping that would be provided by back darts, I have often wondered if I could just extend the pattern back by the length of the yoke piece at center back and side, less the horizontal seam allowances that attach the yoke to the leg, do the fitting, then recreate the yoke based on the newly fitted back. Wouldn’t the darted portion of the back, once separated from the rest of the leg, naturally form the yoke?

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much! Yes, you can do that if you're comfortable making those adjustments to the back leg. The drafting the back yoke from the top of the leg after you fit the pattern. ...But I also think the method that I share here is pretty easy to work with! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@r-anthro]

Hi! Question!: how do you redraw the correct grainline after fitting using the “top down, center out” process? From and to where do I draw it? Thanks for your great videos!

[@JSternDesigns]

My Pleasure!! The grainline is re established by extending the grainline from below the adjustments (centered on the leg from knee to crotch. This week on Fit Tip Tuesday I look a look at the position of the vertical grainline... Here's the link if you're interested in checking that out! kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6uven5thNBonrs Thanks for fitting along with me

[@jeanne4281]

Hi, thank you so much for your so interested vidéo on center out pant fitting method. Where can we get this method please (I am from FRANCE) .

[@JSternDesigns]

:) The original article showing how to do this fitting technique was published in Threads Magazine issue #218. You can also check out all the videos in my TDCO playlist... and the Whole Scoop Playlist where I expand past what works with this method and what else you can do after balancing the front/back leg. kzbin.info/aero/PLseQVksFDkNt0T--7Bg_HZ4a0FP4NS2Aj There is a 4 part series that goes over all of the prep for working with a separate waistband and single leg muslin in this playlist. I created this series to help my students when I teach this class in person and on zoom. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me... all the way from France (so exciting)

[@jeanne4281]

@@JSternDesigns Thank you so much for your answer.

[@kristeni7839]

Great video, thank you!! I was wondering if you have changed your thoughts on how you would approach adjusting RTW pants/jeans since learning this method? Especially the length of the rise and crotch, if the RTW garment is too big?

[@JSternDesigns]

:) That's a cool question! The theory of TDCO is not new to me. I have always thought about making changes to the front/back rise or crotch for both ends. I have tutorials showing how to shorten the front/back rise/crotch. Here are the links. Thanks for fitting along with me! Shorten at the crotch: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpuXeph5ecx-nck Shorten by taking the waistband off: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXjCeZhopLxnl68 Shorten front rise and zipper on jeans: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2nMdWiboNt1qck

[@kristeni7839]

@J Stern Designs Thank you! I look forward to watching these.

[@tracie6837]

This is awesome! I have not tried TDCO yet but I’m hoping to soon. What are your thoughts with using balance lines in conjunction with TDCO?

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Thanks! Another time-saving feature of TDCO is that you use the hem as your balance line... no need to draw all those line on your muslin! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@onamissionize]

You did not mention what to do with the pocket area, you have a pocket line on the pattern but not how you remarked the pocket pattern. I also wonder what you did with the waistband width. You said that your waist was larger than the waist in the pattern, did you add length in the waistband pattern piece?

[@JSternDesigns]

Great questions! The position of the pocket printed on the pattern piece is a "suggested" position. I make the pockets and then pin them on the back leg to see if the position is flattering. Many times I have changed the position from where it's marked on the back leg. After fitting the legs and waistline of the muslin, transfer all the changes to your pattern pieces. Fitting the waistband is easy. I make my waistband a little long than I think I need. After finishing the bottom edge of the waistband facing and sewing the waistband and waistband facing together, sew the waistband to the waistline. Then I trim the excess length off the waistband/facing, leaving 5/8" to fold in to agree with the waistline. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me

[@LouiseMorin-zp3ti]

What would you do for stretch jeans? They have negative ease. How do you manage that?

[@JSternDesigns]

I would still balance the front/back leg using the single leg muslin... knowing that the CF/CB edges will pull away slightly when I'm fitting. After transferring the vertical adjustments to the paper pattern, cut out the second leg and sew it together with the first leg... Then you can fine-tune the fit of the full hip and waistline. Hope this helps Thanks for fitting along with me

[@anymoose6685]

Beautiful… so the extra 1/2” on the yoke is why you pinched out 1 1/2” from the back rise but took up 2” at your side front?

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Thanks! ...Here were a couple "extra 1/2" " references in this tutorial. First, I compared the amount of vertical length removed from the top of the waistline at the side seam edge in the front with how much I pinched out below the yoke on the back leg. There two need to be equal. The front was 2" and the back was 1 1/2... So I increased the amount I pinched out on the back leg at the side seam from 1 1/2" to 2" so the side seams would still be the same length. On the yoke, I marked the top edge of the pattern piece on the muslin. Then I pinned it to the waistband. At the end when I was happy with the fit of the back leg and the position that the yoke was pinned to the waistband, I added 1/2" to the original top edge of the yoke for a seam allowance to sew the yoke onto the actual waistband ... Hope that helps! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@TheFabricTeapot1]

🤗

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Thanks for watching!