fix code p0491. also code p0410 p0411 p0412 p0413 refer to secondary air injection system.

I also put some links in the description for some of the parts I used to fix this vehicle.
there is one thing that I forgot to mention in my video if you have a vacuum controlled combination valve make sure you start by checking the vacuum line in between the combination valve and the engine if the vacuum isn't correct or the line is broken it will also throw these codes.

[@catfishsnagger3284]

Great help thanks for the video

[@stephengoad3091]

You're welcome glad I could help. These Volkswagen cars can sure be a headache.

[@xJT13x]

My wife’s 2011 Chrysler 200 popped P0491. I replaced the air check valve and the air injection pump hose. Cleared the code and drove it for 4 days before it popped again. Air pump sounds fine. Next guess is chafed wiring or a faulty fuse? Any suggestions?

[@stephengoad3091]

I believe on that model there might be a actual vacuum line running to the check valves. Check those hoses very carefully especially at the ends for cracks. If you have a vacuum leak in the system will not operate correctly. Listen for hissing and you can use card or brake cleaner to spray around the secondary air pump system to listen for engine running RPM change. If that's all okay you want to check plug connectors and any major grounds under the hood for good connection. When you said pops I'm guessing you mean the actual fuse blow out, if that's the case it should be either the vacuum pump itself is going bad or there could be a frayed wire grounding out or bad ground. Now the cold start system only works after the car's been sitting for several hours and the engine is cold, so the only time it work is usually early morning first start up. If you fuse did not blow and you just have the code, it may be your Bank 1 O2 sensor is going bad and not reading the fresh oxygen correctly. Start with the simple things vacuum leak and wiring then starved with the easiest port to replace. And remember don't buy the cheapest part go for mid-range with a good warranty. That is if you even have to buy a part I'm feeling like if your fuse is not blown it may be just a air/vacuum leak. If your fuse is blown my hunch would be it's the vacuum pump going bad and drawing too much of a current, but that's just a guess. Well I hope some of this may help you on your fixing journey. These systems trying to fix them usually turn into a rabbit hold of trial and error and parts. Also if your state doesn't require it you can just drive it like this it may stop up the Cadillac converters a little faster but not much.

[@rg807]

Hi, who makes/where did you get the aftermarket air pump? I've seen them for $350+ not $70. Thanks in advance.

[@stephengoad3091]

Well happy to hear that and like I said video you may have to reseal the front housing onto the main housing to keep it airtight on these cheaper assemblies. So here's one that looks like it's from a reputable dealer on eBay here's the link to it. ebay.us/TnO2k6 If it doesn't do the job and you need to return put in your return description that it was damaged or it malfunction and doing that you may not have to pay for return shipping. Just make sure you bench test it first make sure everything seems good how do you even recommend testing it for leaks before installing it. Well I hope this helped, and when you're on the eBay page you should be able to scroll down and if you should be several more at the bottom of the page like this one and you may be able to find one with free return. There also are a few that are slightly cheaper than this but I'd recommend not completely cheating out on it cuz I had to go through three of these before I got one that really did the job not believe I was buying the ones for around $58 dollars. But this one seemed to be from a reputable. Good luck I hope this fixes it.

[@rg807]

@@stephengoad3091 Thanks, Stephen, appreciate it.

[@slowhand_vr7498]

Thanks bro I did it an ir worked

[@stephengoad3091]

You're welcome happy I could help.

[@alexfournier8233]

If i delete it will it cause some performance problem on my car ???

[@stephengoad3091]

If you delete the code it may reset the car's computer, all that means is you'll have to drive it for a few miles under normal driving conditions to let the car learn what kind of driving habits you've have. It should not cause any kind of performance issue as long as you give it a little drive time to relearn your driving habits. If you have a scan tool you can delete it that way or by on hooking the battery for a few hours will usually cause it to delete the codes stored in the computer. So have you fixed the problem or do you want to see if the problem returns?

[@boomerguy9935]

I am a proponent of deleting extra items that can cause problems. I've already deleted my vacuum pump with an IE blocking plate and tied into the vacuum source from the evap emissions hose to the throttle body, for vacuum to the brake booster. Now, I don't have the vacuum pump oil leak which contaminates the intake manifold and creates other problems. I would like to do something similar to the secondary air pump if there is such a procedure or kit.

[@boomerguy9935]

Please, if you are going to point to tiny things in the dark, use a small flashlight that uses a small spotlight and/or a laser-pointer. Fat fingers in the dark just don't help much. When you referred to motor and engine intermittently, I assume that you were referring to the secondary pump motor. Am I wrong? Good info, though.

[@stephengoad3091]

Thanks for the info I'll take it under advisement. Yes that was the secondary air pump. Hopefully this a video helped you with your problem. I shot the video pretty quick just to explain what I did after I figured it out for myself. when I was video taping it the screen shot look better than what was in the final video.