Fix it Guide - Star Wars Snowspeeder restoration part 2/3

[@bobjames2906]

in the forever crazy throw away culture.Watching people repairing, and caring for things; is the best

[@toypolloi]

Thanks Bob. There is much more pleasure in restoring an old toy for me than buying it all complete. I'm glad you enjoy watching.

[@jumpingeneral]

Just picked one up today for five bucks Needs restoration. I Look forward to watching your videos

[@samuelmeasa9283]

Best I've been able to get a hold on for my own restoration is a 12 pack of 0.6cm by 30.48cm acrylic rods from Amazon for $9.99 USD. Came to see if you shared the length I'll need to cut to and while not spoken I can see it from the broken parts on the table. Re-pro parts I am also saving on as I have found an almost complete set for 3D print files for $5.00 USD on Cults. Would also like to swap that motor for a circuit board that plays the actual effect used for canon fire.

[@daveyoung9484]

I was looking for more closer look at fixing or cleaning the battery compartment of the snow speeder in the restoration but cool look at motor

[@standepain]

Looking great!

[@blacktubbootlegs5037]

Awesome video. I bet you could have cut the original plexi rod at the manufactured collar, and used a single drop of superglue to adhere a new piece of rod at collar and. Still, the tip would need something to secure it. Tiny o-rings would work for this, less to clean up in the future? -- What you really need is a tiny lathe, a block of plexi, and a load of free-time. :)

[@stratpack9591]

That's superb news about the plastic glass Dave. I'm at the peroxide stage just now with my Speeder and was wondering whether it would make the glass cloudy or not. I've just done the main body and its looking good. Unfortunately, the weathers turned again - no more sunshine till next June! ;-)

[@toypolloi]

You have to grab the sub while you can in the UK. Last weekend was the first good burst we had had in ages so I made the most of it and did loads of bits.

[@gunterannee7844]

for the clear plastic you could try clear resin and alter hardening Grund in steps to 1200 waterpaper

[@TheHelado36]

I would definitively weather the surface and not worry for the coloration issues

[@darkmagician9916]

Anybody know we're I can get the bulbs from as I Ave a blown one

[@Tim-57]

😎

[@sebastianmorales8804]

do you know how to remove superglue? i bought a tas batmobile kenner and the cockpit was glued,i need to make it opened again! thanks

[@toypolloi]

People say to freeze it, but I have not tried that. Or soak in water.

[@jumpingeneral]

The clear rods you say are called prospect rods?

[@toypolloi]

Perspex rods.

[@jumpingeneral]

@@toypolloi thank you

[@sgf129]

any suggestions on larger items that have yellowed like a uss flagg part? I would hate to have to buy so much peroxide to try and cover the bridge parts, that might get costly.

[@toypolloi]

+sgf129 I've not done the de-yellowing on anyting much bigger that an AT-ST. I know there are other techniques that people use, but they cost more. A 330ml bottle of 6% Hydrogen peroxide costs 99p at the moment. You maybe able to get larger amounts for cheaper.

[@sgf129]

Toy Polloi does using peroxide make the plastic weaker? I have heard that it makes the plastic brittle. I'm going to try and get the yellowing off the bridge because I don't want it to get worse, I was a little surprised it yellowed in the first place because I kept it in a dark temperature controlled room, the same thing happened with my terror drome, and now I have a yellow streak, where the glue is going right down the top.

[@GALAXIE67]

👍☯️👍

[@LextheRobot]

Looks like Rareburg doesn't exist anymore?

[@toypolloi]

Yep, long gone. I've outlasted them.

[@LextheRobot]

@@toypolloi I looked up this video because I need to repair my childhood Snowspeeder where the entire rear part broke off at the four posts that hold it to the underside. I sourced another Snowspeeder with the piece intact but it has much worse stickers. I'm going to try to use parts from both to make one good one. It's been very helpful to learn that the electronics can be so easily removed and reinstalled, because I am not sure that both speeders have working lights/sound. I may have to swap them out when I put the good upper hull with the intact lower hull. Thanks for all your great insights!

[@toypolloi]

I have loads of videos on the snowspeeder. It's a favourite of mine. Including how to reattach the back section. Cheers

[@rightlegproduction1]

for duplicate parts why not just make a resin cast?

[@toypolloi]

Because it ends up costing more than you would imagine. And I like to keep my fixes so that anyone can do them.

[@rightlegproduction1]

Okay i understand, and thank you for your reply.

[@toypolloi]

+rightlegproduction1 Do you know of a cheap way of casting parts?

[@artisticamnesia4153]

Have you ever tried floor polish for the clear parts? Check out this video, the person is talking about hot wheels windows but same clear plastic kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJXRdZitjtiBp5o

[@toypolloi]

+artistic amnesia That looks like a good tip. You can also use T-cut to give a slight polish to the old plastic. That seems to work well.

[@SuperNewdles]

How do you pull off the tip of the canon off? Mine is stuck on hard. I'm probably gonna break the damn thing at this rate >3

[@toypolloi]

Twist and pull. They do come off.

[@SuperNewdles]

@@toypolloi I'll try that. Thanks!