Fix Old Cameras: Mamiya C330 Shutter Repair

[@FreakTimmah]

Thank you for making this video, I was able to use this as a guide to get the shutter working again on my 105mm lens for my C3. I was losing a few shots a roll from a sticky shutter, it would just randomly not work. It just needed a good cleaning and a few drops of lube and now it's working flawlessly! I'm thrilled that I can keep shooting my TLR! It's hard to find people who will CLA old cameras now, if there's no manufacturer support a lot of shops won't touch them. I guess DIY is the way to go.

[@sethshepherd6816]

I’m coming here for the 105mm as well. I’m glad I saw you’re comment as I wasn’t sure if this guide would apply to the 105 as well! Do you have the older sekor or the “blue dot” version??

[@zoranjankovic891]

Great tutorial! Simple and precise. You just saved my favourite 80mm from life sentence in “Spares” box. :) Thanks!!!

[@FixOldCameras]

Very good to hear. Keep'em going.

[@RonnyB2008]

Interesting video ! I don't have a blue-dot lens, but hopefully the old series are not too different. I notice that the "half-moon" set-screw is different from a couple of other videos (of older Mamiya C series lens repairs) that I have seen.

[@caidhp-bhais]

Thank you for all the time you devote to your videos and for the expertise and clear explanations of the repairs you are presenting. Demonstrations I would find useful are the disassembly of a Pentax Digital Spotmeter in order to clean the interior and the lenses. Another would be the repair of the timer/switch on a Mamiya 645 PD/PDS eye level viewfinder.

[@FixOldCameras]

Thank you for the suggestion for equipment to feature in FOC videos. Would like to do them at some point in time. Can not say when or if, though.

[@RotarySMP]

That is a huge help. Thanks. I have a 105 F3.5 Mamiya TLR lens with sticky shutter speeds, but it is the fast speeds which hang up not the slow ones.

[@FixOldCameras]

In addition to the condition of the blades, the levers and speed cam will need to be checked.

[@RotarySMP]

@@FixOldCameras Thanks. Now I need to find the speed cam :)

[@FixOldCameras]

@@RotarySMP In this video it is the black plate with the various stepping cutouts shown at 1:47

[@RotarySMP]

@@FixOldCameras Thanks a lot.

[@Gwalion]

You make it all look fairly easy - which can only mean it isn't!

[@loshasdiary]

Excellent videos! Thank you for educating! Because of your videos, my Yashika 635 is working now and Mamiya c220 will be working soon!

[@FixOldCameras]

Outstanding. Keep'em going. Thank you for your comments.

[@igehring]

Hello sir ! Nice video, do you have some about this type of shutter not closing or jaming during closing ? Mine is a Sekor f3.5 90mm

[@jonathansnyder1535]

Thanks for the video... my shutter seems okay on an 80mm 2.8 Lens I got with a C3 I picked up at a Flea Market, BUT the Aperture is sticking. Seems like the blades are starting to bend if I try to move to smaller apertures AND one of the blades remains in the way when I shoot with the lens. Any suggestions on how to get to the blades to see what is going on? Do I need to continue in from the front OR access from the back of the lens? Thanks for any tips!

[@reidjamesonpotts5810]

Thanks so much for this insightful tutorial. I want to attempt this on my Mamiya but am unsure what you mean by alcohol flush cleaning? Do you mean just wiping it all down with isopropyl alcohol?

[@jameswaters5888]

Do you have a repair/adjust for the shutter timing/sticking video for a C330 250mm lens?

[@jesusinvegas]

Thank you for this content. Could we send a camera or lens in to you to repair on the channel? I hope more film channels like this come up on youtube

[@FixOldCameras]

If you are interested in a possible repair... phototronic.biz/

[@josephjacobs7057]

Thanks a ton for posting these videos! You are giving us film photographers a venue to keep our equipment going! This video gets me pretty close to what I need, but my shutter randomly misfires. This is causing blank frames. I can feel when it is going to misfire, as the lever seems limp and easily pushes down. Any advice? It is not many steps further than this video to obtain a proper diagnosis? My local camera guys won't touch this lens.

[@FixOldCameras]

The shutter cocking latching lever is sticking or slipping and can be accessed following the steps in this video. To watch the shutter functionality install only the speed cam and the retainer.

[@josephjacobs7057]

@@FixOldCameras Awesome, thanks! I assume this issue can be remedied easily?

[@FixOldCameras]

@@josephjacobs7057 Most of the time it is matter of making certain the latch lever has positive engagement. Should be doable if you have you already have the skills and tools to access it.

[@mattiashaggstrom2049]

Thank you for the video. I managed to fix my lens.

[@j.h.5718]

Hi Mike. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I’m working on a Sekor 80mm chrome version. I followed your instruction and have gotten up to resembling. My advancement is catching and working, but the shutter does seem to be catching? As I change to different apertures, nothing, but I see the advancement mechanism moving like normal. Any advice / Help would be greatly appreciated! Takin king a shot here, not sure if you will even see this. Thank you either way! Happy New Year! -James

[@Utkarsh_A]

Hi there, I have the same lens, do you have any videos on pulling the elements out and cleaning them? I can see a small bit of fungus in the middle element of my take lens and I would like to address it as soon as possible and also if you have any tricks for removing fungus from the elements. Thanks

[@keeszondervrees8787]

Thank you for this very clear explanation! Is it possible to make a video about the film rewind of a C330? The images partially overlap when this mechanism no longer works correctly ... please.

[@FixOldCameras]

You are welcome and thank you for your interest in FOC and yes such a video might at some time be possible.

[@Being_Joe]

Thank you. I have this exact lens with same problem. Just need to get the right tools.

[@jeremiahjohnson1513]

Why is there no video on how to fix a stuck shutter button? I know there are a few that say they do but they don't address the black switch on the side that pushes down on the shutter to find it. On my camera that button won't push downward to fire the shutter. You can still fire the shutter by pushing the switch yourself but that metal bar on the side won't slide downward. I looked inside and there is a spring in there but something is hanging it up. Does it need lubricant? Is there a trick to it? If you have any tips it would be much appreciated. thanks.

[@tasost2161]

Hello again , I have also mamiya sekor 135mm f4.5 it seems deferent to open than 80mm is there any videos of 135 lens ?

[@dustinroemer5180]

Does that gear cluster that you removed control shutter speed? I got a C220 from an estate sale that had gunked up gears. I cleaned and oiled them, but only bulb mode works, any other position, the shutter doesn't open. The only apparent difference between our lenses that I see is that I don't have that gear cluster on the right that you removed. I can't imagine the previous owner took it out, but I don't know what else it could be.

[@FixOldCameras]

The slow speed escapement or as you aptly call the gear cluster does control the slow speeds from 1second to 1/15 second.

[@spudunit]

Excellent guide, thanks! I have the same lens and might attempt this. The cocking lever does not return fully, but when you nudge it does and the shutter cycles normally. Any chance a quick fix might correct that? Thank you!

[@simonbohn8043]

This is very likely to be gunk on the speed ring between the cocking lever and speed ring. If you clean those surfaces and lubricate with molybdenum disulfide, you may not have to remove the slow speed escapement at all!

[@spudunit]

@@simonbohn8043 Thanks! I'll give that a whirl.

[@RGamerVideosYay]

I need to clean my viewfinder prism for a Konica Autoreflex T, if you have any videos of this, it would be greatly appreciated!

[@FixOldCameras]

Thank you for the suggestion. Another good camera to be featured in a FOC video.

[@isaiaszepeda42]

By any chance do you have any videos on a kiev 88 i have one of them that i used for the last year my last roll of film i only got 3 frames the rest were blanck after inspecting the camera body i notice the curtain is not opening any good ideas or advice will be highly appreciated and like always great video

[@FixOldCameras]

Nothing on the Kiev 88 yet. Thank you for the suggestion.

[@doug3102]

Thank you! I'm assuming the procedure is similar for a C-220 80mm lens (no blue dot)?

[@FixOldCameras]

It is. All the Seikosha (chrome) or Seiko (black) lens/shutters on the Mamiya TLR's will be very similar.

[@doug3102]

@@FixOldCameras Thank you, I finally got around to doing this repair. This was extremely helpful. My grandfather would be happy to know his camera is still being used!

[@FixOldCameras]

@@doug3102 That is very cool that you are going to be able to shoot pictures with your grandfather's camera. Keep'em going.

[@michaellavenz252]

I have an Olympus OM-10 that I had stored for several years and finally rediscovered in my closet. The shutter was stuck in the open position so I opened the bottom per your stuck Olympus camera shutter video and found that the long swing arm that rocks to flip the shutter open does not snap back to the proper position after the picture is taken. The film will not advance at this point unless I manually trip the release mechanism to get the swing arm to drop the rest of the way back. Is this just a battery issue (I know that I need to buy new ones) or do I have to do something else to fix the problem? I would love if you could supply a tutorial if it takes more than batteries, and if you understand what I am describing.

[@FixOldCameras]

It surely could be a battery issue. Check you battery output for full power and make sure the battery contacts have not signs of corrosion, particularly the battery lid as it can have nearly an invisible layer of corrosion that can block the flow of current.

[@michaellavenz252]

Thanks... I found that the batteries were shot. It works great now! I appreciate your videos. They are very informative!

[@Burcuburbur]

Hello, I'm not sure whether here is the place to ask this. But I have a Smena Symbol. I accidentally turned its take-up stool a bit while cleaning the dust and now it does not turn when I pull the lever which winds the film to the next shot. Can I fix this by myself or should I show it someone else? By the way I checked some of your videos and they were very detailed, thank you for your dedication and good work :)

[@FixOldCameras]

Thank you for your interest in Fix Old Cameras.Are you writing about the sprocket or the spool? For if it the sprocket that is free wheeling perhaps the rewind clutch button is engaged.

[@Burcuburbur]

@@FixOldCamerasThank you, it got fixed when I rewinded it :)

[@FixOldCameras]

@@Burcuburbur Excellent.

[@thecapitalcrime0107]

Any ideas on how to fix the battery contact spring on a konica autoreflex t3? It looks like it just fell inside the camera body

[@FixOldCameras]

If the wire is not damaged from corrosion simple re-solder. If you do not have access to a soldering iron, then it could be glued back in place using a conductive cement.

[@hoanghuy4701]

Does this also apply for shutter speed that is unchanged ? i have a shutter that unchanged from 1/500s to 1s

[@FixOldCameras]

It is possible that the slow speed escapement is disengaged, but the speeds above 60 should still be changing.

[@poop_fossil]

I don't know if this is the best place to ask this, but I have a minolta srt101 where the ring on the body that follows the lens aperture ring does not spring back, and I can't for the life of me figure out exactly why. Have you experienced this issue? And if so, what can I do about it? As of right now it means the light meter in my camera is effectively useless despite functioning fine electronically.

[@FixOldCameras]

The aperture linkage ring's tension is created by the configuration of the AV /TV string and pulley system. You can see it here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5C6gKqbmp2Entk and here kzbin.info/www/bejne/p16yhniPgNynr7c Maybe a FOC video demonstrating the routing of its cord and pulley system is in order.

[@tasost2161]

Hello I want to do the same in my lens can i spray with fast dry contact cleaner the leafs of the lens?

[@FixOldCameras]

Best if you remove the slow speed escapement to clean.

[@DavidHancock]

Is that the one that I sent you?

[@FixOldCameras]

Although the one you sent me is an 80mm lens. The shutter is a Silver SEIKOSHA-S. One that would make a nice feature. Lot of footage in the can, but always looking to add more.

[@prophotoservices]

Need one for Rolleiflex 2.8 timers

[@Uwe_Ludolf]

I am quite sure this is also the case with my 80mm although the "delay" is also there at higher shutter speeds. Too much small parts, too much special tools. I will just send it to "Mamiya Service" (some former employees with 45 years experience) to make it work perfect again. But nice to see the inside!

[@FixOldCameras]

Thanks for sharing your experiences.

[@maykduarte5299]

Hello greetings, I have a problem with my zenit et. Shutter speeds are the same even 30-x bulb mode if it works. which may be ?

[@FixOldCameras]

Probably need to access the slow speed escapement.

[@tomheckhaus7617]

That shutter looks like a "Copal" derivative, maybe a Copal #1. Just curious. Regards Tom N.C.

[@FixOldCameras]

Well that is an interesting observation and perhaps a camera historian could enlighten us. A Mamiya C330 lens either has a Seikosha (chrome) or Seiko (black) shutter. Perhaps Seikosha drew inspiration from the German Compur and the Japanese Copal then drew inspiration from Seikosha which began showing up on cameras at least a decade earlier. The Seikosha shutters are elegant, reliable and serviceable and knowing something of their heritage would be cool.

[@tomheckhaus7617]

Sorry for the delay in responding, busy busy. I have the 6th edition of The Price Guide to Antique and Classic cameras. There is a section (deleted from later editions) on shutter types. It's not much help for later model shutters. It does have a photo of a Compur (Rim-set) introduced in 1930 and shown in a Voightlander. The Compur is a ringer for the Copal. Seiko and Seikosha. I never thought of researching shutters but I'll try and look into it. I'd say that the Compur was the source for all the later shutters. Have a look at my friend Paul's Yashica TLR website. He has a nice article on Copal shutters. www.yashicatlr.com/LensesShutters.html#copal You can also try this link as a launching point. It does say that Seikosha and Seiko were both inspired by the Compur. camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Seikosha_(shutter) See ya, Tom

[@thegreatvanziniphotos5976]

I have my old c cameras still. Had no idea it what was in there. Thanks.

[@FixOldCameras]

Indeed. And thank you for the comment and your interest in FOC.

[@pentaxk85]

Lol what we have here is a failure to communicate.

[@FixOldCameras]

Right on!

[@charlievillanuevavlog]

I wish your explanation was a bit more detailed. Other Tutorial videos take a min of 30 mins. Your video only took 5 mins. What is there to learn?