Flat Roof - Solar Installation - 1.6kWp - Step by step Guide for homeowners. + hot water system

In this video we go through the 7 steps of fitting a flat grid solar system to a small roof in north London. The video covers installing the consumer board, the inverter, the boost system to divert energy to the hot water coils within the hot water tanks. We use schletter brackets and solar edge inverters.
Our website - www.nextdaysolar.co.uk
The inverter - www.solaredge....
The iBoost - www.marlec.co....

[@tiloalo]

Optimizer in this case are a bit overkill, no? There is almost no chance of partial shadow. All black for panel that cannot be seen is also a bad choice, all black heat a tiny bit more, and are less efficient because of that (not to mention that they cost more).

[@nextdaysolar3349]

We have shading from the Chimney and also as the roof is so small the units were pushed quite close together so they can help. It's also quite a tricky roof to get to, so again gives a more detailed overview for future diagnosis. All black as its what was available. Today its what we can get, rather than what we'd like ! but I hear your point on temperature management.

[@rymoe6299]

Love how you carry a panel up a ladder using no hands Atleast you look the biz in high vis and helmet 😂 3 points of contact on the Money only

[@joelito20]

Where can I get a rack like that in the US does it have a name? I don't want to drill my roof and this looks great with the concrete blocks

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Schletter (German Company)

[@johnhaughey]

Nice video, thanks. One correction is that the Solar I Boost may save a bit of money but it's definitely not good for the planet. Gas is always the most efficient way of heating hot water (typically 90% efficient), compared to power stations which are no more than 60% efficient. Therefore if you really want to reduce your carbon footprint you should pass excess electricity to the grid (as this reduces UK power generation) and heat your water with gas. OK I know we are talking peanuts here but just pointing out that it's wrong to say the I boost is good for the planet!

[@andrewcunningham1]

Hi John. Interesting to note here that electrically heated water is 100% efficient which is higher than the gas heating efficiency of 90%. So using your solar energy directly to heat your water is better than heating with gas.

[@SanneHoekstra]

Nice video. I would lower the top ballast stones if I were you. Even a bit of shadow can lower the output quite a bit.

[@nextdaysolar3349]

You are correct, and subsequently we did a few days later. Ideally the panels would be space a little further apart, but we were extremely tight on space. We did as much as we could. Export in the last 12 months was 400kWh, the rest was used by the property which is great.

[@PeaceChanel]

Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste and Thank You for All your efforts to support this Great Cause 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ 🌷 ☮ ❤

[@jamaicanjewsthemarkofthebe6412]

ISRAELITES WAKEUP

[@lugwalder]

How do you know how far the panels are apart from each other, so the panels aren’t casting shadows? I,e is there a formula for spacing them out.

[@NewportSolar]

Hi, great video. Thank you. Question: Other than the cinder blocks weighing them down, is there anything else keeping these attached to the roof? How much wind can this type of system handle? I have an installer who just did this on a customer's house and they are not happy with the final result. Especially when this is not what they were told would be installed. Also, the installer used very big, bulky, ugly cinder blocks on an expensive property on a golf course. It looks awful. Their home is also in a very high wind area, so they are concerned about that issue. Your installation looks much better with flat cinder blocks. Thanks for any info.

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Hi, when you install a system like this, you use a calculator from the mounting supplier (in this case was Schletter) and it tells you precisely where and how much ballast you need. You can use whatever ballast you want (within reason). The wind loading is therefore a set metric which is a standard value, dependent on the location of the array (i.e built up area/costal) and height above sea level. My suggestion is the customer sends you or us the paperwork supplied by the installer so we can have a quick look over it. The customer should have been provided all data sheets and calculations for every aspect of the installation. If you reply with your email, I will send you an example of the one done for this property. As there is no fixing to the roof it's immensely important for all evident reasons that the right amount of ballast is used. When handling a solar panel on a roof they act like a sail in low winds. With high winds its dangerous. We have seen and repaired flat room systems where the panels are scattered all over the roof due to improper fixing or improper ballast. A few pictures of the job would also be useful. Our email is [e-mail] and please for the attention of Asher.

[@ravingdavid69]

great video do you have a link to the flat roof frame system please as this is what I need for my diy system on my outbuilding thanks

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Sure, schletter-group.com/flat-roof-systems/?lang=en, you want to look at FixGrid 18, or something similar depending on project. There are a number of suppliers of Schletter gear, as you cannot buy direct. Many of them are not taking new accounts/business, so let us know if you get stuck. We also have most of the components in stock. Thank you

[@jansmit4628]

Adding the solar energy into an existing power group in the house looks dangerous to me. In the Netherlands we have a 16A breaker per group. By adding a the solar energy via it's own breaker (I assume 10A), some of the cabling in this group could see 26A before a breaker would pop. The wiring could catch on fire if 25A would be drawn over a longer time.

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Hi, solar installs in the UK must be on their own dedicated circuit, with breaker accordingly. We have a 16A break here, and the PV is only 1.5kW or 6A. Not sure your reference to 25A, but no concern here.

[@jansmit4628]

@@nextdaysolar3349 From the video I understood at 5:55 that the solar power was connected to the nearest group available in the addic or the floor below it via the AC disconnect. Perhaps I misunderstood the remarks about having power already in the adic or the floor below it. Having a dedicated breaker in the cabinet with the home connection is the only good solution.

[@nextdaysolar3349]

@@jansmit4628 Hi Jan, maybe a phone call easier to clarify. In the main consumer board of the property there is a 20A/32A breaker from Memory. This takes the power up to the loft area. On the loft circuit was the heating system electronics) and the immersion heater. We took this feed, placed into a new board, and wired the inverter and immersion off of this new board.

[@pf888]

Hi Next Day Solar, I have a 100 sqft EPDM flat rubber roof surrounded by parapet walls on top of a 2nd floor extension that I would like to install 3-4 solar panels on, do you have any lightweight fixing options as my extension walls are not solid brick please? Also it looks like in your video that you fitted a single-phase SolarEdge 1.5kW inverter to a three-phase power supply?

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Good evening, the weight is a specific calculation based on location, size of array, height of property etc. If you have a parapet that really helps reduce the weight required to ballast down the system. If you'd like us to run the calculation , please email us at [e-mail] with the enquiry, or jump ahead and complete the quick questionnaire here : q8esoxafmpw.typeform.com/to/CJOvbg4a , In terms of fixings, the fixings themselves are all pretty similar, we can swap rails for plastic ground mount containers, but again little in it. Finally, we fitted a 1.5kW single phase, as whilst the property 'features' a 3-phase supply, its only been wired on a single phase which is quite typical. In the 1930's when power was run to these properties 3-phase suppliers were 'standard' but with the 'efficiency' improvements of modern equipment, single phase connections are much more common. Hope that helps.

[@londonman8688]

what was the total cost of this install ?

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Upwards of £5k.

[@dhanjigorasia1479]

hi i like fix on back of garden garage flat roof may i can get 11 panel advise please

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Please kindly pop your details here, and we can assist, q8esoxafmpw.typeform.com/to/CJOvbg4a?typeform-source=nextdaysolar.co.uk

[@MrAndrewjdavis]

Hi - great video. I have a 50m2 flat roof which is quite exposed. Do you have the option to use fixing points like the Nicholson IFP system? I am considering a 12 panel E/W aligned 5kw system and I am based in SW London (I have an EV!)

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Hi Andrew, yes we can consider using those fixings. I've had a look, and they seem excellent. I will need to check if they are MCS certified, they do not appear under product/supplier lists at present. E/W systems are great, as they often better match the load profile of a home (usage in morning and afternoon) If you are not considering batteries. If you'd like us to consider the install, drop us an email to [e-mail] and we can put a basic quotation together for you. Thanks

[@Pulpdiction1999]

so what would the price of a similar system be without the iboost, looking for something similar on a single story flat roof, so no need for scaffolding

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Good morning, the Iboost is not an expensive bit of kit, £300 approx. Scaffolding is normally under £1k. You are looking around £4k depending on the project, location etc, flat roof single story makes life much easier.

[@123sumom]

Hey How many solar pannels was mounted on ur roof, where did you place the inverter? Can you monitor usage with an app. Thanks

[@nextdaysolar3349]

4 x 405W, Inverter is placed in the loft. Solar Edge have an app, which allows you to monitor real time usage. So yes to all your questions.

[@MobilityCentreUK]

Would a 12 panel system with no edge on a flat roof require much more ballast? How do you check for strength of roof to handle that kind of weight? Do you sometimes opt to find the batons and screw in instead of using balast?

[@nextdaysolar3349]

There are a number of requirements and considerations when dealing with a flat roof. If you are within 50cm from the edge of the roof perimeter, ballast must be increased by 30%, (from a standard calculation). If there is no parapet (then ballast must be increased as well). It is irrelevant how many panels you have, its just about where they are situated. Once you have the size of roof, and know how many panels, the weight of the rack, we then run a specialist software/calculation to determine ballast weight. One would then run this weight past a structural engineer (of which we have internally) to determine whether additional support is required. In most cases it is not, it depends on the state of the building fabrication, and its design. MCS regulations (of which we are bound) imply one must not screw/fix to a flat roof surface unless for a specific reason. It is likely to cause damage to the integrity and watertightness of the roofing substrate, so in most situations its not recommended. Email us at [e-mail] with your project if you like. Thanks.

[@Bushcraft-xz6xd]

How does this perform in winter low sun? The panel angle looks about 25 degrees, ok in summer but must be a bit lacking in winter no?

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Hi, Hope this helps, March 120kWh, April 165kWh, May 170kWh, June 200kWh, July 205kWh, August 190kWh, September 110kWh, October 78kWh, November 20kWh ! (so about 10%) in a winter month, but overall this year since installation, 1.25MWh which isn't bad going. Even in winter its producing 100-200 in cloudy/bright conditions, and thats enough to cover all my basic loads. Angle is much shallower at 12 degrees.

[@Bushcraft-xz6xd]

@@nextdaysolar3349 Thsnks for that detailed info. Better numbers than I thought!

[@danielebrahim2336]

Hi guys, what are the dimensions of the roof. I have a loft extension, thus don't have a south facing wall. Just a flat roof. But i've also got a south kitchen extension which is 6.m wide, by 4m long.

[@nextdaysolar3349]

The roof space we had to play with here was 5mx3m. The panels were 2mx1m. It was a'bit tight but we made it work. 6x4m is plenty.

[@jonphanspromotions]

My installer did not treat my panels well as these guys. Do you do it the same way when off camera? If so, I should complain to my local installer.

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Panels are glass, indeed thinner than most windows, and the rear cell is generally un-protected, one knock can damage a single cell (of which there may be 78) in a panel, and if damaging one cell, half the panel may be then unable to generate effectively, or heat up and start a fire in the worst possible case, so yes panels must be treated carefully, generally with 2 persons on them at any time, and tested before they are installed. They are likely to be on a roof/ground/surface for up to 20 years, and with scaffolding in place, you don't want to be visiting them often to repair/remedy an issue. I'm sure your installation is just fine, but yes we take great care when handling something that is expensive, fragile, and something that forms part of a more complex series of components that all must work harmoniously to generate power and rid us of our coal past !

[@jonphanspromotions]

@@nextdaysolar3349 top notch installing. Keep up the good work.

[@tylerdurden5303]

How much did the whole job cost?

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Hi, upwards of £5k.

[@bloodcarver913]

With all that work and cost for it, why not go with a 5kw inverter or atleast a 3kw? It is the same amount of work but with an ability to run more of your home on it.

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Because there are no batteries here, so we are limited by the PV power at 1.6kWp

[@drobovik236]

Hi is it worts to install foure panels?

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Hi. Of course. We are already getting 1.2kWH of energy at peak.

[@whitegold79]

Was planning permission required to install these panels?

[@LolasCupcakeschannel]

Yes as in conservation area.

[@kinamod2k]

Cant run a smart meter backwards though ;)

[@Rating64]

You can charge a battery though and use the power at peak demand/price

[@CastleKnight7]

But you can bring it to a standstill. That’s what’s happening with my solar/battery storage system. I just have to pay the standing charge. I don’t mind as it’s useful to have the grid to balance any reduction in generation.

[@swingman50]

What's the cost of this system?

[@nextdaysolar3349]

North of £5000. please contact us for a quote on [e-mail] or www.nextdaysolar.co.uk if you are thinking of a system and we can quote specifically for your property, thank you

[@dcross3514]

Is planning permission needed for this?

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Only within a conversation area, otherwise fine under permitted development.

[@foundsatis]

I suggest you check with your local planning authority. From the UK planning portal website:- “Panels should not be installed above the highest part of the roof (excluding the chimney) and should project no more than 200mm from the roof slope or wall surface”. Every roof has a roof slope be it zero or 35 degrees. So, if any part of the panel projects more than 200mm from the roof then planning permission is required.

[@Fritsvrolijk]

They safe money in the year 2080

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Well, you actually start to save the day you put the system on, on a 'cash basis' we are seeing payback from 5 years depending on system size. So sadly, I think you are mis-informed.

[@jacquessteventon]

I'd be a little concerned about a 200kg load on the top of my roof

[@nextdaysolar3349]

Hi, before any job we get a structural report/engineer to check. With this job (there is a previous video) we added some members into the loft space to handle the additional load. On modern GRP roofs they can take more than 200kg per sqm. So fear not, the roof is up to the job !

[@gendarmerielosblancos4395]

So many solar panels and you only get 1.6kw lmaoooo

[@grahamjackson2401]

solar boost, what a load of shite. you can have mine out. noisy