Flexi Flares Install × Discovery 2 [Land Rover Build]

[@Tinker1837]

NOTE: It's worth mentioning that the plastic screw-caps didn't hold up too well. Many fell off or wouldn't stay closed over the screw & they started rusting pretty quick. I'd recommend skipping the plastic caps altogether & getting some shorter more aggressively threaded screws with either a flanged head or a washer. Do yourself a favor & choose a good anti-corrosion coating (eco guard, ceramic coat, yellow zinc, etc). I would NOT recommend stainless screws though, as water & salt can react with the aluminum body panels & accelerate corrosion of the both fasteners & the body (i.e. galvanic corrosion).

[@the.magnus]

Tinker what material screws would you recommend that won’t corrode against aluminium mate?

[@Tinker1837]

@@the.magnus Any carbon steel hardware with a good coating, my favorites being either Yellow Chromate Zinc or Aluminum Zinc Flake.

[@drumhed]

I normally get irritated and leave if the presenter refuses to speak and waves things in front of the camera instead... But you actually do a good job of explaining things with pure gestures. Good work, mate.

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks dude! I feel ya, there's just something odd about hearing your own voice as you edit video, so I thought I'd have a go at showing instead of saying.

[@drumhed]

I especially liked the bit where you "removed" the stock flare. :-)

[@buckhornimports]

Nice effort but as an unfortunate guy who has installed several sets of these I would like to offer some tips for viewers who find this video before starting their own install... Starting up front like shown here is the best practice. You want to start up front as you'll get two practice rounds on the simple fenders before moving on to fight the rear doors which are like the bosses at the end of a video game level. Second, unlike what was shown here, don't cut too much off at first. The idea is actually to only cut just enough for the flares to fit and align properly so that you retain strength and rigidity in the panels and so that you can gain the most protection from the flares when you actually hit something with them. Third take your time drilling the holes, until you have enough experience/comfidence you may only want to drill one hole at a time. Also be very careful not to strip the screw holes out. You can only go with increasingly larger screws once maybe twice before you find yourself throwing a hot dog down a hallway. No uggas. No duggas. Fourth you can reinstall the sealing strip from the rear door, just use weatherstripping contact adhesive and place it higher up. It really really helps long term to keep moisture away from the fresh cut area, even if you went overboard painting and caulking your fresh edges and new gaps. Fifth (related to tip #2 above) if you take care to not cut too much and get the flare positioning perfect, you wont need to trim the contour for the body line to match the panel- they will line up naturally. Sixthly take the time to "unsharpen" the one cut that matters- the rear door jamb/wheelhouse panel. If your install goes as it should, this is the only exposed place where you (or your passengers) can cut yourself open down the road. Seventh- always reinstall the front fender liners. You will need to trim them a bit, but be careful and remember to always trim less than you think you need to. If you have an all-metal box cutter knife and a propane torch to heat it up, trimming the flexible plastic of the inner fender splash guards is much easier. Likewise, a little action from a heat gun (or even a hair dryer) applied to them will make them more pliable and allow you to get the best possible fitment. They are very important as the inner fender area of the body shell is not particularly well rust-proofed from the factory and without the liners in place not only will water get all up in there but dirt and debris will collect and hold moisture in place. Lastly, my personal preference is the 50mm versions of these flares. In an impact with a stationary object/tree/rock/vehicle/building etc. the increased width of the 75mm makes for greater force on the fasteners and the body panels. If you are installing 75mm flares, consider ditching the sheet metal screw type fasteners, and use BMW plastic rivets (17 11 1 712 963) as hole inserts and #10 pan head screws. They are more than strong enough to keep the flare mounted up securely, yet they will yield in a heavy impact situation and allow the flare to disassemble itself so you can remount it later on without the need to drill new holes.

[@x5or]

Thanks for all 👍

[@Tinker1837]

Good info 👍

[@xm3ntal620]

Great tips and info. Any thoughts on gutting the wheel well plastics inside the fender for more clearance. I'm currently on 33s and want to make the venture to 35" mud terrains.

[@JS-nk4re]

I can't find these flares anywhere where did you get them ?

[@DAJANEM99]

I think I’ll just restore my original flares. Way too much work and I’d like to keep it looking original. Thanks for the video. You’re look great!

[@folkpuusa6077]

Stock rovers look sharp. Cutting the doors and wheelwells wheel become necessary when putting larger tires and demanding more out of your truck. Tinker put 35s on his build. I have 32s on my D2 currently and cut into my tires about every we go wheeling. This mod will be my next.

[@santossuarez]

I love your video! Good job on the flares! Good looking Rover!

[@abuubaydullah1]

Great video just love the speed and its so easy to slow it down Oh thank you for the tip on the screws

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks! Happy to help :)

[@breehardison]

I chuckled at 0.40 and stopped the video to say. I thought the prep for the tools would never end. Who knows I'm stuck at 0.40 second until this comment is done. lol I shall see. Still amused- it's a good thing

[@eghty8fox780]

thanks I've been thinking of doing this for some time didn't know how to go about cutting the rear door but looks good probably fit 33 in tires easier with a 2 in lift

[@Tinker1837]

Understandable, the door cutting part is worrying at first. And yes 33" tires would be preferable with only 2" of lift, 35" tires would require quite a lot of cutting to clear.

[@crotchrocket3000]

Did you really have to remove the rear mud flap brackets for this? Were you able to reinstall some? Thanks

[@Tinker1837]

Yes, plus they are terribly flimsy for serious off-roading & not helpful with the larger tires, so they had to go until I could build a better set of flaps.

[@jacko74689]

Do you get any dust or water come through the rear doors now u have cut them ?

[@Tinker1837]

Thankfully nope! And I've had it over the door handles deep in water at a lakeside sand dunes area without so much as a damp spot 👍 That was definitely the "scary" part of the mod, but the key is putting that rubber seal back in place & doing your best to adhere the sealant like you see me do in the vid.

[@jacko74689]

Spot on cheers

[@timothymichael6549]

Great video. You make cutting into the body seem easy!

[@Tinker1837]

Oh I was plenty nervous about it! Especially that rear quarter around that door D:

[@roamingdoggy]

Excellent vid!

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks! Hoped it could be of use to someone, not too easy to find installs for D2's.

[@stevenkelly4073]

Do these fit Discovery 1 also? Or I have to use a different kit?

[@AlloffroadAu]

great video mate

[@SteevWest56]

Bro can I just put in on without cutting it ?

[@Tinker1837]

Oh yes of course, but for maximum clearance for 35-38" tires like mine you must cut. It can be scary, but thankfully these cut are mostly in aluminum which will not corrode near as fast if it was steel.

[@7bayntuno]

Awsome little vid, first ever D2 arch flare instal vid I've seen, many thanks. What did you use to seal the gaps in the panels of the rear doors? It looked like you wedged something in there? Also are they the 50mm or 75mm flares? Love to see more of your truck 👍

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks! They are the 75mil wide variety. That bit I wedged in the gap is the old rubber outer seal that was attached to the removed lower door section, spot it at around 6:10

[@midnight_automotives]

Any tips on how to line them up center?

[@Tinker1837]

The best method I could come up with was: Find the front-to-back location by measuring the full inside width of the new flare, then throw that measurement up on the fender, split the difference & mark it, & if I recall correctly it was around 1 inch off front & rear. Finding the up-to-down location has a little more personal preference involved, but in my case I placed the flare up to the side marks, then slid it up & down to find the best spot for both functional clearance of the tire + the aesthetics, & if I recall correctly it was roughly 1.5 inches, then just hold it in place to mark your cut line. Lastly I highly suggest using the first cutoff piece to mark the other side... don't want it crooked from driver's side to passenger's side!

[@lowrange1486]

And anothe question: did you ever refit the plastics under the front wings?

[@Tinker1837]

I did, yes.

[@lowrange1486]

Tinker how did you fit them as long as you cut the wing and you lost the those fixing points?

[@Tinker1837]

It may sound funny & they didn't fit great, but I heated them up to flatten them out + zip ties. I pulled them back off during the engine swap because I thought they looked/worked terribly, so hopefully I can show how I intend to replace them here in a video soon.

[@albertotomasi3892]

What's lift kit you have on dis video??

[@Tinker1837]

"Lucky8" 4-inch lift kit

[@FluffySinon]

Nice job, but i've got one question, why u didn't secure fresh cutted space after all with anti-corrosive paint or something ? Krylon would do better job after placing it on underlay like Corizon or something like it.

[@Tinker1837]

You can see the paint I used right at the beginning. The fender cuts are into aluminum & require very minimal protection, then the rear cuts get double protection via both paint & sealant.

[@FluffySinon]

Ow okay then I missed that :)

[@Tinker1837]

No problem at all, corrosion is certainly something to fear when slicing into the bodywork like that.

[@docgrievous]

Are those the Defender Kit wide

[@Tinker1837]

Pretty much 👍

[@JuanPierreOosthuizen]

00:50 fucking hilarious. Oh man i got a stupid sense of humor.

[@frankpineda1832]

Where did you get those flares? I have a Land Rover as well

[@Tinker1837]

Lucky8 has them, good fellas over there, here's a link: www.lucky8llc.com/products/flexi-discovery-ii-flexi-fender-flares-75mm

[@B4rksp4wn48]

Dumb question but it came with all 4 right??

[@Tinker1837]

It did come with all 4 + some kinda crap hardware

[@EnDependance123]

Nice work 👌 and cool video 👌

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks!

[@brucegonsalves7348]

Hi Tinker where can I get these flares diso 2

[@Tinker1837]

Lucky8 has them, good guys over there, here's a link: www.lucky8llc.com/products/flexi-discovery-ii-flexi-fender-flares-75mm

[@delticnapierdccsound4236]

I'm putting these on my classic but I have one gripe, the rubber seal you pull off the rear door, do you replace it ?. The reason I ask is I have this fear of water spraying in off the big fat tyres.. 😣😣😣

[@Tinker1837]

I do, right around the 9:00 mark, but also the door has a secondary inner seal as well (not sure if it's there on a classic)

[@mariosaborio8379]

mi lan Rover Discovery se me quemo una parte del motor dañando parte eléctrica motor solamente y más accesorios como caja fiu ces tarro culan bobinas y otros algún buen consejo que me recomienden

[@Tinker1837]

I would try either Ebay or other used parts sources like vehicle junk-yards / salvage-yards.

[@mariosaborio8379]

Do you recommend try to fix the vehicle if it was turned on fire but just the engine it was on fire like 10 minutes , an I saw that just the engine had problems Do you recommend fix it or what ?

[@guitarshredder7]

Thanks for the video! Super helpful!

[@guitarshredder7]

Also, I had a question, hows the water intrusion? Is there any at all? After fixing the pesky sun roof seal, the last thing I want is more water coming in lol.

[@Tinker1837]

Thankfully none at all! Even after nearly drowning it with water well over the hood playing on a beach alongside dunes... so it's safe to say it's better sealed than the damned airbox haha!

[@TopherGriffin]

the fenders are aluminium, not sure its worth painting them given it wont rust, shouldn't tap screws into the sheet metal either... best bet is to use aluminium screws, then pop a flanged aluminium nut with some thread locker on the back... no corrosion then since you aren't making a battery on your fender with steel screws and ally bodywork. Doors and roof are steel though!

[@Tinker1837]

Rust? No. Corrode? It sure can! Especially with the well salted winter roads around here.

[@nidortydiscos8215]

how much off a lift has it got? i think thats the arches il b gettin for mine lol

[@Tinker1837]

That is a 4" kit from lucky8, like so: www.lucky8llc.com/collections/lift-kits-2/products/terrafirma-discovery-2-4in-kit

[@nidortydiscos8215]

Stuff 'n Junk thanks. what size off tyres are u puttin on?

[@Tinker1837]

I went with 35" tall by 12.5" wide from Interco, can see me putting them on some wicked beadlocks: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnOrdJ1jg7p2lZI

[@filthyanimal1067]

Brilliant video mate,where did you source the flares from?.

[@Tinker1837]

Thanks! The guys over at Lucky8 are a great resource 👍 If they don't have them then I'd have a google search for "75mm flexi flares Disco 2"

[@filthyanimal1067]

@@Tinker1837 yea just looked at lucky8,I am in the Scottish Highlands. I'll find em somewhere mate.👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@SailingAnja]

@@filthyanimal1067 Flatdoguk mate.. they do 50 and 75mm

[@filthyanimal1067]

@@SailingAnja thanks buddy,I put in a search and there they were.

[@Reba21079]

Love the video. Are those the 50mm or the 75mm?

[@Tinker1837]

Reba21079 Thanks! 75mm

[@johnnyvaldes6683]

I've been seeking out that style of flares for my D2 and i've couldn't find that 🤔

[@Tinker1837]

Lucky8 has them still as far as I know.

[@eghty8fox780]

Get the Terafirma on lucky8.Com and no cutting

[@michaelvinci2167]

just wondering boss do they have these for the Disco 1?

[@Tinker1837]

Yep, up to 75mm wide.

[@michaelvinci2167]

Cool .. thank you man and thank you for your tutorial on how to do it.

[@4eba78]

ладно передние арки, но то что он сзади сделал это вообще ппц полный... и зам он подкрашивает алюминий из баллончика тоже не пойму, дороги же солью только в России посыпают...

[@Tinker1837]

Дороги здесь, в Мичигане (Северная Америка), также покрыты зимой, должны быть осторожны, чтобы избежать коррозии! (Гугл переводчик)

[@mmaaxx30]

Тоже немного непонял. Вроде все в роликах грамотно делал а тут порнуху такую сделал((. Винтовые заклёпки делать надо , а не саморезы... сваркой варить , а не жидкими гвоздями мазать. Сопли короче какието сделал, до первой кочки

[@unballisticr.i.pdadloveand7055]

Do what I done fitted zinc roof 8mm self tappers with rubber washers don’t rot and look 👀 👌

[@Tinker1837]

Sounds like a good replacement, & what a shame they don't come with at least decent hardware for the price.

[@jamesray3920]

No way I cut or chop metal to install flares that may rust where before wasn't any rust I like the flares but for me not cutting off metal for a look but for you go ahead 😊

[@thomtrucker1925]

Complete trap for water and dust or mud. Difficult to wash you need a pressure washer because these holes are not very well done. Do it properly there are availeble aluminium kits where you cut back the wings and weld new ones.

[@Tinker1837]

To each their own I suppose. No issues cleaning these seeing as the inside edge is wide open & I'm already getting the arches cleaned well & good every time even before this install. I don't think I'm alone in appreciating this look versus wide versions of the original fenders.

[@karel4x483]

Привет друг. Не подскажешь номер запчасти арок. У меня установлены 50 мм мне их не хватает хочу 75 но в России не купить такие в магазине!!! Только заказ с англии или америки... имея номер заказать было бы проще именно такие !!!

[@Tinker1837]

www.lucky8llc.com/products/flexi-discovery-ii-flexi-fender-flares-75mm

[@nunomascarenhasribeiro]

Why the cutting???....didn't fit without cutting??....Im going to install EZ Flares XL Universal Flexible Rubber Fender Flares (ebay)

[@Tinker1837]

It's a requirement, by design the flares are meant to increase the wheel arches to clear larger diameter tires as well as cover wider tires.

[@lowrange1486]

If you have to cut the wings and the doors, that’s the worst solution. There are extended arches (from terrafirma) that doesn’t require cutting . Don’t get me wrong, you made a nice how to video but wrong product.

[@Tinker1837]

I'll have to order a set so I can have a look BUT the cutting was mandatory to fit the 35" tires without a huge amount of suspension lift, and I plan to move up to 37" tires here soon so it's even more required. But thanks for the tip!

[@lowrange1486]

Tinker I just cut my wings and doors to fit the new arches, lol, now i’m thinking buying another car.

[@defender90keswick.nigelsla59]

At 0:49 LMFAO!!

[@Tinker1837]

I thought about poking it with a stick too :P

[@timbateman7202]

Great video, when can I book you in to do mine 😉 You can make another video doing mine and I won't charge you! 🤣😂

[@Tinker1837]

We can do the slightly smaller flares, I'll bring the chainsaw & jackhammer, so long as you have some cold ones stocked up... ha! 🤪

[@malcolmyoung7866]

Note this is a year old BUUTTTT....Tape measure...Needs a 'TapeBoss'.....to go with the DEBOSS T shirt....

[@Tinker1837]

I would've LOVED that TapeBoss back when I worked construction... the genius of it!

[@cun7sathome]

Yeah butnyour doing it properly. . I aint got time for that

[@mitsucanter]

interesante

[@dewmontjerkins9886]

Really annoying video... lasted 43 seconds before I had to rescue my mind.

[@Tinker1837]

Cool story.