Flexible Binding in Full Leather Part 1 // Adventures in Bookbinding

[@sheilamathews4759]

I could watch you work all day!

[@madamsloth]

Your channel is exactly what I have been looking for!

[@shahinmonschizadehtehrany3902]

I have been looking forward to this series for so long! Thank you! :-)

[@nashvillain171]

This is going to be a great series, Darryn! 👍

[@DASBookbinding]

Hope so! DAS

[@CucumbersSC]

!!! Looking forward to the continuation of this series! I appreciate your attention to detail so much. Thank you for all the effort you put in! :D

[@colinsmith5218]

Thank you! This is my favorite binding.

[@Котикрукожеп]

gonna be waiting for the next vid with great excitement

[@taken-for-pomegranted]

So glad you're doing this type of book. I've been waiting for it!

[@daveturnbull7221]

I am so looking forward to this series!

[@hancock1066]

This is the one I have been waiting for. I'm very excited!

[@arunavel0211]

the work my heart lovely super

[@truthtone58]

I have bought books for myself in bad shape that I have sewn and rebound. They are ok because I did not put a lot of money in time in them just for myself. But your work is awesome. I enjoy watching it, get lots of good ideas.

[@TheOrganicOverdose]

I really wish I could do all this myself. Your videos are excellent and I really appreciate that you're sharing your knowledge as you work. The results are fantastic. I have a heap of paperbacks that I would love to re-bind, but $$.

[@zachv465]

Yayyyy very excited!

[@danielfrazer2440]

Amazing, really looking forward to this bookbinding series!

[@dwolfe2907]

I'm a novice book binder, and I'm absolutely thrilled to have found your channel. Its hard to find masters to apprentice under these days, but I feel so privilege to be watching over your shoulders and learn. Thank you for all your hard work!

[@diegooland1261]

Oh keep this series going. Having tried this, there are a few spots where I really need to see how to do it.

[@c.a.mcdivitt9722]

This stuff is fascinating!

[@bobguy3939]

What a fun project! I think I'll make a dinky version so I can follow along📖

[@DASBookbinding]

Can't wait to see it:) DAS

[@henrylove3302]

nashvillian has said it already. It is great Henry. Bristol UK

[@RAIRAI856]

まだ上手に作れませんが、何度も挑戦してみます！ 背表紙に凹凸がある本を沢山棚に置きたいです！

[@inuichiban6394]

U da man. Look fwd to contributing when i can.

[@carlpeberdy9086]

Unfortunately, being vegetarian, I won't be doing this one - but I am still watching avidly as I always learn such a lot from your videos.

[@DASBookbinding]

You could try covering in another material. I know there are people using vegan leather substitute to cover books. All the best, DAS

[@hiiiitherehaha]

you can use faux leather! its not real :D

[@kyststudio-epicartadventure]

I have developed a very untraditional binding: I do kettle stitches tightly all along the back (ends and where I want cords to lay) then sew cords to the kettle stitches, passing a curved needle under the kettle stitches over the cord between each signature. First end of the thread is knotted then incorporated along side the cord and the end is drawn into the center of the cord and pulled tightly so the knot is buried under the cord. THEN round and compress the book very tightly in a press or quick clamps, keeping the cords free. The cords are stretched to be straight and square while pressed, then muslin is glued over the cords and back, avoiding the ends where I want to see headbands. I can’t back my books but pressing with cover boards on the text block helps. Then the end bands are made and everything is glued with pva (again). This method needs the strength of the pva or a quite stiff starch. Then when that is dry, it’s taken out of the pressing (clamps) and covers permanently installed. The book seems normal in function and look except that the covers are a bit proud of the text block. The covers are rounded at the back to visually ease the transition. This method works for those without equipment beyond quick clamps. One can even construct the entire text block from a couch or bed if needed. (Good for people with poor mobility.) In this case, the kettle stitches must be very snug so that when compression is done afterward, they won’t be excessively loose. Leather cover as usual.

[@DASBookbinding]

Sounds really different. I'm not sure what the purpose of oversewing a cord to the kettle stitch is - to get a raised band? There was a traditional method of sewing kettle stitches around a number of lengths of thread to strengthen the kettle stitches in stationery binding. I've got a video on it. Thanks for sharing! DAS

[@kyststudio-epicartadventure]

The purpose was to get raised bands without a sewing frame, as well as to assure good attachments to the boards. (I’m piercing boards.) Since these will be passed on to my kids with my drawings and Plein aire expedition notes, I wish to assure they won’t fall apart.

[@channelsixtysix066]

Douglas (Cockerell) will be impressed, Darryn. I've just read his thoughts on 19th C. binding. He was not impressed with the way binding had gone in that century.

[@DASBookbinding]

I think it was reading this that I first started questioning the use of recessed cords. That cockling of paper in the gutter when opening these books just doesn't look good. DAS

[@channelsixtysix066]

@@DASBookbinding He advocated plain leather, but quality binding. It was amusing to read it, because he laments the drop in standards, when we complain about the same thing these days. Who knows what he would make of high-volume commercial binding these days.

[@crono782]

is the paper you use specifically short grain to get the proper grain direction or do you purchase larger sheets and have them cut down to produce short grain paper? I have a bear of a time getting US letter/A4 paper in short grain. best i've found is ordering some neenah 11x17 long grain in natural 70lb text and have it cut down to 8.5x11 short grain and it's not terribly expensive. edit: nvm, i see in the description you bought it from talas.

[@DASBookbinding]

Yes it is short grain and is cut mill sized paper. I believe Hollanders sells short grain US letter Mohawk Superfine. DAS

[@kardanadam2]

hello master darryn please show us Edge Gilding for foil (no gold) . simple methods

[@DASBookbinding]

I'm not sure it's simpler. I know people use heated rollers to do this, but they are expensive. I have a friend that has one. I'll see about borrowing it. DAS

[@kardanadam2]

@@DASBookbinding thx master

[@user-pp5ri9dq4y]

I am really thankful for this series of videos! I have a question, when you give the measurements for the markings for sewing, is that specifically for this book that you're making. Is there a formula I can follow, I am making a book(have absolutely no idea what I'm doing) that's 14 inches long(about 35.5cm). I appreciate your time! Tim

[@DASBookbinding]

Same distance for trim and kettle and then divide up so supports or more than 25mm and less than 50mm, is some guidance. Not a set in stone rule. DAS

[@lukemcloch8839]

Will there be a difference in bookspine strength if the holes were sawn instead of the awl method?

[@DASBookbinding]

Probably not. But the cord may sit down in the cuts, and it's just not needed. Better doing the awl method. A compromise is to cut a slit with a knife. DAS

[@sierraupton629]

Question? I watched all your videos! So glad I found them!! I had previously bound a book in this same process. But my problem is when I open it ots very stiff, won’t stay open without a decent amount of holding, opening to the first page everything’s just very stiff, I don’t know what I did wrong, I found this series’s and watched to see if I did anything different, I didn’t. So if you have any advice that would be great!

[@DASBookbinding]

Usual cause is over lined spine, boards not set (a step often not done), and endpaper put down closed instead of open. But there are also limitations to this structure and it is not really suited to thin books and some papers. Maybe also the leather too thick over the outer joint. But it is fairly forgiving with this. Good luck. DAS

[@sierraupton629]

@@DASBookbinding thank you for responding!!! What do you mean by the boards not set? Do you have a video where you set boards? I haven’t heard you use that term in any of them?

[@sierraupton629]

Oh! Is that the same as setting the joints like you do in part 7 at 12:50min? Opening the cover, put a piece of wood on the shoulder, and draw the cover board forward so it sits over the shoulder. Is that what u were referencing with “set the boards”?

[@prototypep4]

Hey Darryn, I finally have my PDF sorted. I have a 132 page book I'd like to do in this flexible style binding. The book is set at A4 size, will this binding work for that? I'm guessing at least 5 bands will be needed at that size? There's a few other things I'd like to try and do with it too.

[@DASBookbinding]

I think 132 pages might be a bit thin for a tight-back. You can do it, but a hollow-back would open better. Yes, 5 or 6 bands on A4. I'll get back to the equivalent hollow-back version of this soon. DAS

[@prototypep4]

@@DASBookbinding i ended up padding out the pages as it wasn't putting the pages where I wanted them. I ended up with 144 so 9 16 page signatures plus I'd like to add a Easton Press style silk moire endpaper to each end. Not sure on the best method for doing this either yet but I'm having fun going through all your videos for information and inspiration :)

[@DASBookbinding]

@@prototypep4 There is artificial paper backed silk moire available. Use it like a marbled paper in a made endpaper. It looks great and much easier to use than real silk. I bet it's what Easton Press uses. I think Talas sells it. DAS

[@mikezinn7212]

Hi. Is the paper you are using supplied in A4 short grain packs?

[@DASBookbinding]

Hi Mike, Other than me I don't know of anyone in Australia selling Mohawk SG A4. I buy it in mill reams from a paper merchant and have it cut down to A4 SG. I'll send you a message on Patreon with the details. Ciao, Darryn

[@hiiiitherehaha]

is this good tor a beginner? i want to make a hardcover book over the summer but i dont wanna waste my time with something i cant do yet

[@DASBookbinding]

This is an advanced project. I'd suggest the sewn-board binding. I have a series of videos on these. Have fun! DAS

[@prototypep4]

Do you know where I might find a type of paper that has a sort of linen/parchment texture but it easy to print on and bind? Preferably in A3 since I'm looking to make an A4 book.

[@DASBookbinding]

Linen and parchment have very different textures. If you're in Australia I have a few reams of A3 SG paper that has a parchment look and feel to it. It was some old stock I bought from a store closing down. It's just called "archival paper". In the US maybe check out Hollanders. DAS

[@prototypep4]

@@DASBookbinding i'm in Aus, just looking to make a leatherbound rulebook for a game. Still need to sort out the page files to print but yeah definitely want to do a textured paper.

[@DASBookbinding]

@@prototypep4 Sorry for the delay getting back to you. If you want, email me your postal address and I'll send you some paper samples. [e-mail] Ciao, DAS

[@marketweightpress2978]

What are dimensions of your cover boards in relation to book block dimensions (height x width)? Thanks in advance

[@DASBookbinding]

It's measured to the book. The height will be the text height + 2 times the square, and width from shoulder to fore-edge plus the square. DAS

[@Rob2000]

Why still punch holes, why not saw all holes?

[@DASBookbinding]

I'll talk about this in part 2. DAS

[@phoebebaker1575]

Missing your videos. You will be welcome if you get a chance to return.

[@DASBookbinding]

Hopefully soon! Missing your comments:)

[@phoebebaker1575]

@@DASBookbinding :)

[@manjushaajay1190]

മലയാള