T1N Sprinter (2002-2006) Alternator Replacement

[@ExperiencesAndEquipment]

I just did it on my dad's van. Take off the air box hose and the turbo resonator. The top back bolt is the hardest once those hoses are out of the way

[@vincentrolfe1384]

They are called E bolts (Torx) as they are External fitment.

[@michaelmann5732]

The video helped me today. After taking off the resonator bracket, I had easy access to that top back bolt from the front side by the fan using a speed wrench. I repaired my alternator by replacing the voltage regulator that contained new brushes. I bought the whole kit, but changing the bearings would require tools I didn’t have. I realize somewhere down the road, the bearings will wear out, but everything is tight and quiet for now. Going to try to find the donation link again. Thank you for your videos. You’re a God send.

[@FloridaVanMan]

In the video we asked why they are called e-bolts... The "e" is for Extended Torx.

[@benhussen2767]

Thanks I was looking for why they called e bolts.

[@sparky6086]

"External Torx" actually.

[@spenceretchechoury3207]

Mine just went out and am going to replace tomorrow. Found the Bosch 150a on Amazon for a great price right now

[@FloridaVanMan]

Good choice. The 200amp aftermarket alternators produced in the last 18 months or so have had problems with the pulley no aligned with the belt line.

[@JonasKonijnenberg]

About to do this tomorrow.. on a roadtrip and my alternator failed. Hope it’s gonna work out with this video 😇 I love watching your videos and now there’s actually something going on. I looked up the problem and how to replace it, you’re the first one to pop up! ❤🎉

[@carissasharque]

This was incredibly helpful, I was able to follow and do by myself for the 1st time ever thanks to the video and tips

[@_herbstreet]

Thanks for the video! I used a 1/4" wratchet with a 4" extension, 1/4 wobble and 3/8 adapter to get that top one out. Still a pain but not too bad.

[@djnicob1]

Thanks for that. Done it without removing the turbo resonator. It was so easy.

[@tonybonner3156]

This was a life (and money) saver when I had to replace my alternator. Thanks😆

[@PezaoMandinga]

Dude. Get the Milwaukee m12 cordless ratchet. Like an air ratchet but battery powered. Most useful tool I've gotten in a long time for wrenching! Especially nice for those stubborn e-torx bolts...

[@FloridaVanMan]

I'll check it out. I've been thinking it is time to get some air tools, and then thought that was so old fashioned. Does BinFord make cordless ratchets? More Power arrrg!

[@vincentrolfe1384]

The turbo resonator is in the way to get at two of the four E12 bolts that connect the alternator to the engine block. You will need a box end wrench E8 to get those two resonator bolts loose. Do not try to vise grip those little resonator E8 bolts due to damage makes it impossible to remove the two.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Since 99.999% don't have box-end E-torx wrenches, the round end of any 12 point 1/4inch box end wrench will do nicely on E-8. A 5/16th fits nicely on E-10. Speed wrenches work marvelously!

[@kenashworth7672]

Thank you for making this video - it was incredibly helpful with pulling my alternator today. That one top E12 bolt is tricky - I tinkered with it for several minutes - and decided to take the extra time to pull the resonator, which made the job less frustrating. I have the 90 amp alternator, so I think a little easier than that larger 200 amp one.

[@georgecraft007]

I used a 10mm (six point, box end) wrench to get the upper left e-Torx bolt out. The proper e-Torx socket was used for the other bolts.

[@mikechirwa6497]

Nice one....im working on this one as well. E-Bolts means Extended torx.

[@sparky6086]

"External Torx".

[@tedolsen2187]

I thought it meant External

[@paulmacal8037]

Damn this is gonna take almost my whole day

[@erickrick3901]

Florida Van Man, saving lives over here.

[@johnchungking]

You are speeding up the the actions that I would like to see,

[@FloridaVanMan]

Sorry, I try to show what is useful but don't want to make you watch while I fight gravity and my aging body. Some of the successes just don't get captured on camera but we'll keep trying to make them better with practice.

[@johnchungking]

YES I get it ,just a few locations that are not as clear ,,,But i agree !@@FloridaVanMan

[@nmartin5551]

Thanks soooo much for the hack on the (bleep) bolt!

[@owenothera]

This is a great video! I really appreciate this video. I looked at my alternator and I don't seem to have the turbo line that is in the way of the fourth bolt on top. Also, I can't figure out how you reduced the tension on the pully to get the belt off.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Is your van 2003 or older? UK vans are different also, with respect to that hose closest to the alternator. They all have the same tensioner though. A 17mm socket on a long handle will fit onto the tensioner. Push the handle under the van from right side to left side of the van (not as we face it, but the van's left/right). It should feel spring loaded and not stuck. With spring compressed, pull the belt off one corner pulley.

[@johnzurbriggen713]

I just replaced mine with a 200 amp alternator and the pulleys the same size but the casing must be larger and the belt sits out too proud. Not sure if there’s anything to do with that but I don’t like how the belt is hanging proud up top now 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@FloridaVanMan]

That is a problem and we have seen it on many Amazon purchases this year. I had used DB Electric alternators for years and the product changed around December with the pulley up to 1/4 inch forward. This WILL wear the belt and shred it in a few thousand miles.

[@johnzurbriggen713]

Yes I used your affiliate link to that same alternator. It’s been on it for a month or so now with little driving it. But I guess I’m going to need another new one. I don’t know if they’ll take this one back though now. Ugh 😢 I feel like a wasted good money, time and a lot of aggravation on that damn top bolt. Not looking forward to doing it again 🤦‍♂️😂

[@DromaticGnome]

"E" = "External"

[@RJ-me3ir]

Hi will this be the same for my diesel 2001 sprinter?

[@FloridaVanMan]

I believe so. Is it a 5 cylinder diesel? We didn't get any 4 cylinder Sprinters here in the states, so I cannot confirm how different they are.

[@dr.jhernandez2031]

you guys are the best

[@Timothyis]

Good evening my friends. Thank you for the support. My alternator is putting out 12.1 volts at idle and it jumps up to 14 after a thousand rpms. Does it matter which brand I buy? And I'm going to get the 150 amp does that pose any challenges?

[@FloridaVanMan]

It is not uncommon for an alternator to do as you describe. We don't have "smart alternators" but what we have aren't dumb either. When the engine is at idle the alternator may effectively shut off. 14 volts is a good charge rate when under load, so I don't think you have an alternator problem. Maybe you have an old battery drawing high charge or simply not holding a full charge? But if you are going to upgrade or up-size the alternator I use this inexpensive one on all my vans. I see no harm in being bigger than needed, at 200amp. amzn.to/3ad7YUj

[@jeffjacobs7774]

Hi enjoy your channel really helpful on my 05 Sprinter. I have a van conversion by Pleasure Way and upgraded my house battery to a 300ah lithium that has a Bluetooth monitor. Going down the road the stock alternator was producing 45amps now maybe 30 taking a long time (hours) to recharge. Not due why it’s going down? I was thinking about going to a 200amp alternator but my question is MB installs a solenoid that is under the driver’s set that upfitters connect too. I can’t find any information on how much amperage that can go through the solenoid or it doesn’t matter or should I eliminate it? I am wondering if you have or could direct me. Thanks

[@FloridaVanMan]

Depending how you are connecting the house battery, your charge rate will decrease as your house battery gets closer to full. There was a factory option Battery Isolator and I have that on my daily driver. It is NOT the correct way to charge Lithium house batteries but has worked well for me going on a 5th year. It gets really slow charging when the house battery is above 13 volts, which is only 50% SOC. I think this is what you are asking about and I think the isolator will handle more current than our alternators will ever provide. The optional battery isolator looks like an aluminum can with no label under the driver seat. There is also a "Builder Box" under the seat that offers 12volts in three terminals. One 'always on', one 'key on' and one 'engine running'. I can send you images in our Facebook group: facebook.com/groups/floridavanman/

[@googizzo3911]

My van only starts if I jump it … I got about 13.5 running 12.5 off thinks it’s the alt?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Nope. 13.5 while running tells us the alternator is alternating and charging a nearly full battery. Does the radiator electric fan come on some times with the key? Could be fuel box, relays or the ECM. kzbin.info/www/bejne/noPQiaRqgLd7mrM

[@hassanreshat401]

Champion 🏆

[@DKN808]

Question: how do you know which amperage alt to buy? ‘06 T1N 2500 light duty. Thank you

[@FloridaVanMan]

Any will fit and if you don't have any accessories running there is no reason to go above the minimum 90 amp. If you are charging a big house battery with DC-DC charger you'll want the biggest alternator option. But.... the 200 amp alternators shipped by Amazon don't fit properly, causing the belt to wear fast and break pulleys.

[@DKN808]

@@FloridaVanMan Thanks. Try my luck again with a 2nd question: Is the dash fan supposed to be running (lowest setting) with the ignition turned off? I was thinking that was causing the battery to drain, but it makes more sense it’s the alternator when the engine shuts down while driving. And the battery light was ON dash.

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@DKN808 Dash fan running when the key is off is not normal. If it blows on lowest setting regardless of speed selector dial, that will be your REST button stuck in the On position. The REST feature is intended to keep the cab warm while refueling. There is a button on the HVAC control and the only time I've seen this problem we had to replace the dash control to fix it.

[@DKN808]

@@FloridaVanMan Thank you. I replaced the resistor a short while ago because the fan only went on low or highest setting. But I do the climate control panel needs to be serviced/replaced as I’ve replaced every part in my AC system and still cannot get it to blow cold air 🫤

[@brendand3030]

Did you use the stock (red) wire from the Alt to bat+? I am doing this 200 amp alternator install and dont want to fry my system. Thanks

[@FloridaVanMan]

Yes, the vans all came with wire large enough to support the largest available alternator.

[@andrebombardier3021]

I am throwing a question hopefully someone can answer it. Is there a way to identify if your T1N (mine is a 05) has the 150 or the 200 amp alternator without taking it out. I purchased the van 6 months ago and the alternator looks new. I want to connect a 60 amp dc to dc charger for a house battery bank and I feel a 150 amp alternator might be too small for the extra load (the 60 amp dc to dc charger actually pull 90 amps to maintain a 14.4 volts charging profile). Thanks in advance.

[@FloridaVanMan]

There is often a large number on the plastic end of the alternator, 90, 150, 180 or 200. We can usually see it using a cel-phone camera with the light on.

[@joefarmelo6330]

Did you ever replace glowplugs in a 2003 sprinter in the vehicle

[@FloridaVanMan]

I have not but I have a 2002 engine with the manifold on it. I will soon find out if the tools will reach past the manifold but I suspect this will be a problem. I've just recently overcome my fear of glow plugs and been removing them with excellent success. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKe5iHWunL-DbZY

[@googletv9902]

I have a battery light on the Sprinter but as soon as you touch the gas pedal it goes away. What could it be? Alternator is charging and voltage on the cells is o.k.

[@FloridaVanMan]

That is probably a dying alternator but it could be other things. I am curious if you have a second battery or leisure/house battery that is drawing the charge off the alternator at a rate it cannot keep up (at idle). Disconnecting your house battery temporarily will answer this.

[@tonysilvia3698]

Hi there mine is doing the same has battery light on and last night when I pulled in the lights etc.. were very weak looking, which motor Is in yours mine is the 5cyl 2.7

[@FloridaVanMan]

Same. Any Sprinters in North America prior to 2007 are 5cyl 2.7 with some changes between 03/04.

[@johnfay6662]

did you put 17mm on the engine pully to loosen the belt?

[@FloridaVanMan]

No, the belt tensioner has a protrusion that fits 17mm - 12 point sockets. This is where we put the breaker bar to rotate the tensioner and loosen the belt. With the tension released we slip the belt off the bottom pulley (a/c).

[@goldenadvantures2573]

Is there an easy way to tell what amperage alternator the van has on it? Mine came with the factory house battery under the passenger seat to run a rear lift gate so I'm hoping it has a higher amperage alternator on it. Also I love the videos and appreciate all of the detail you go into. Thank you for taking the time to put everything up on KZbin!

[@FloridaVanMan]

Thank you. If you can send me a picture of your alternator installed, looking at the electrical connections from beneath the van, I can probably tell you what size it is. Some of them are marked on the plastic. Some means everything.

[@johnantliff]

At 6:02 the picture of the new alternator shows a crack in the casting just below the fixing boss like someone has dropped it on the fixing boss! Anyone else notice?

[@FloridaVanMan]

I do see what you are seeing, but it is an illusion. Although I see it here, there is no crack (thankfully). Ya' had me nervous. hehe

[@MrBlankebw]

To the untrained eye Would it be evident if I Have a 200amp alternator ? Thanks

[@FloridaVanMan]

With a little practice and some images from Google you can figure it out. The bracket that holds the turbo resonator wraps around the alternator. If that is a tight fit and you cannot get a finger between, it is probably a 200 amp. Sometimes they are marked in big numbers on the plastic end of the alternator. "200A" "150A" "90A" etc.

[@seagull7414]

Do you sell T1Ns by chance?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Yes, we currently have two for sale in Florida. One is a 158" high top with the solar on it fully equipped. The other is the short roof 140" wheelbase.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Both vans are featured in videos on the channel. The videos show unfinished details that have since been addressed. The big one is ready for your build-out dream, and the shorty is ready to work, sleep, eat & travel.

[@Vladdy1one]

I’ve replaced the alternator. And light still come up. Can you please assist?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Maybe you are not getting power over the exciter wire, the small one going to the alternator? Take the alternator that you took out to any auto parts store for free testing. Check fuses under seat and under steering wheel for good measure.