Fluids Check on New Holland TR86 Combine

Here's some quick maintenance to the combine.

[@Military-Museum-LP]

We ran TR with a 3208 CAT on downed corn and picked up a granite type rock that the rock trap didn’t get. There were sever damage in both rotors and the rotor tunnels. The combine was repaired but never ran the same and was later lost in a fire.

[@rogercarrico4975]

I'm with you on washing stuff. I have a high pressure washer. It has it's place. I never get water near seals, electrical gizmos, any place where it might find its way in. I blow it off, wipe and sweep things off. There's other ways to keep things reasonably clean without spraying water on it. I've seen the results of that. It can get expensive!!

[@mtozzy11]

3 machines I have alot of confidence in. 1#: our 1966 David Brown 990 Selectamatic - it just works dad got the tractor the week before I was born and for 37 years since I've been on that tractor. 2 and 3 Our 2001 and 2006 Same Dorado 85 and 86 comfortable, extremely capable safe fast and very stable on the hills. You just feel very safe with them no matter the terrain or conditions

[@georgeungemach6834]

My dad his David brown in1967 still using no frills but dependable

[@mtozzy11]

@@georgeungemach6834 in there day they were actually a pretty well equipped tractor. Traction control was there claim to fame and when you know how to use it you can generally plow a furrow wider a gear higher or work a foot or two wider

[@walterlaubscherjr2011]

Glad your done with maintenance can’t wait for the harvest videos

[@andyg3240]

My 986 didn’t give me a feeling of confidence. It was a constant repair job. Two days in the field 20 in the shop.

[@jankotze1959]

Nice video, glad the TR serves you well

[@johnskillen6208]

thank you we have a tr85 we are taking it apart to finish our saw mill i have lots of spare parts if you need

[@NEAFarmKid4010]

I feel like with both the gas and diesel TR70s y'all had, they were just getting old enough that they were going to require a cost prohibitive amount of money to get them fixed right where you could feel confident sitting in the seat and running them. You made a very good decision on the TR86, it is serving you very well.

[@train1962]

Smooth operation and operators.

[@fredf3391]

I like your comment on Nick You look for equipment that is better than what you are running just put them sunglasses on n don't worry about color n yes they will need some repair work it's a catch-22

[@dehavenfamilyfarm]

My mini excavator and Maxxum 5250 are my favorite seats to sit in :)

[@Budd56]

14:50 if you get a chance, get some "invisible glass" window cleaner. It's about the best I've used and it doesn't seem to streak.

[@peterhejny363]

Had 2 David browns a 2 1978s one was brand new. The other was added later. Dont know how many times the hr meter turned over. Lol traded that one acouple yrs ago for alittle newer case loader tractor. Very good tractor very fuel efficient. Not to many issues starter and clutch every 10 yrs or so. Lol

[@thepubliceye]

Durty combins are the ones that burn down to the ground every day. Clean under the covers is what really matters, muddy wheels never burned a combine down.

[@anderleof]

What happened to the video loading Nick's combine?

[@PaulHigginbothamSr]

Thinking about the radiator still having pressure after a couple months and being 3 quarts low. So as it is running the pressure is first built when first warming. The cap has two functions. The first function is to raise the boiling pressure 10psi over atmosphere to raise the boiling point. If the thermostat is set for 180 the boiling should only occur after heat soak from the hot exhaust drifting in at shut off. The second function of the cap is a negative pressure release at cool down so it does not sit with a vacuum in the sealed container. The only way to have positive pressure after cooling thermodynamically after cooling is to have some pressurization besides water vapor pressure. With 3 quarts low it means probably a tiny inconsequential leak that has the fluid entering the combustion chamber as well as pressurizing the coolant chamber so after two months with a cool engine is neither good or bad but after two days normally no pressure either positive or negative should be involved. Science

[@lukestrawwalker]

Or it could have been a change in air pressure during that time... it cools down to "no pressure" when the barometric pressure is high, then he opens the cap on a day when the barometric pressure is low and the excess air sucked in by the vacuum break on the cap puffs out when he breaks the seal unscrewing the cap. Ever seen a bag of tater chips at the top of Pike's Peak?? Bag airs itself up like a car tire-- Can't hardly open it and when you do, it nearly pops! Goes off like a hand grenade LOL:) Did a trick for my daughter... drank a whole bottle of water at the top of Pike's Peak, closed the bottle up tight, perfectly straight and intact, and handed it to her to hold and watch on the way down... as we descended and outside air pressure increased (from 13,000 down to 5,000 ASL) the bottle slowly crushed inwards and was half-crushed by the time we got to the bottom of the mountain, because the outside air pressure smashes the thin plastic bottle down until the air pressure inside is equal to that outside at the lower level... reducing the volume and smashing the bottle. Same reason tater chips bagged "loose" at a sea level or "typical elevation" plant blows up like a car tire when you get to the top of the mountain-- the air pressure trapped inside the bag is MUCH higher than that outside at that 13,000 foot elevation! Later! OL J R :)

[@Ron52G]

We use old newspapers to clean windows with.

[@boehmfarm4276]

I am fascinated that the paper holds up.

[@lukestrawwalker]

@@boehmfarm4276 I'm curious how they don't get ink all over everything LOL:) OL J R :)

[@Military-Museum-LP]

Jake any update on the Ford and 2+2?

[@boehmfarm4276]

In the shed

[@lawrencelacenski9781]

Do y’all still have the 2 row John Deere corn picker?

[@boehmfarm4276]

Yes, I used it once but didn't get video yet this season.

[@lawrencelacenski9781]

@@boehmfarm4276 just wasn’t sure if you got the uni system operational yet

[@Farmboymarv]

What ever happened to the 2+2?

[@peterhejny363]

Still have the other David brown going strong

[@frankr.1594]

Do you have to be careful with poisoned spiders in your area (like the black widow or some other)?

[@boehmfarm4276]

Um, a little, but not enough to worry daily.

[@stephenkeller6894]

Do you and your dad like that shed the combine is stored in? My dad and I would like to build one for storing round bales.

[@boehmfarm4276]

No place for birds to sit and leave droppings.

[@dodgeramdiesel1734]

I’m sure you get asked this all the time so I apologize for asking, but do you still have the 2+2? Cousin just bought one

[@boehmfarm4276]

Yeah, in the shop.

[@345farm]

Do you still use the 3pt planter under cover? I’m thinking about going to a 7100 JD was wondering if you prefer the pull behind planter instead of the 3pt…

[@boehmfarm4276]

Three point is nice for tight turns at the headland and it works best for straight rows. Sometimes we plant a curve and its a lot of side strain on the three point.

[@lukestrawwalker]

I've got a 7100 Deere and they're terrific planters. If well kept/maintained and properly adjusted, they can do just as good a job as any new planter out there. Mine was from north central Texas, up around Comanche, TX, used on a peanut farm. Came with plate bottom hoppers and drives. Course peanuts are planted with a special "dome plate bottom" that used a hemispherical dome and an adjustable gate to plant whole peanuts. They're fully interchangeable with the standard row-crop plate bottom, and it came with a set of plate bottoms. I had an extensive set of Deere plates for my old Deere #18 planter which it was replacing (as well as the Cole) The Deere plates are all interchangeable so if you have plates, they'll work in it. Thing is, IF it has plate bottoms, I *HIGHLY* recommend you get some plateless hoppers for it and plateless drives... the plate bottom drives bolt to the row unit directly over the seed tube-- there's one bolt or pin in the back and a wing nut in the front (IIRC) and the plate drives will lift right off the row unit shank. Plateless drives have a handle for the meter clutch (disconnect coupler, which is a notched round metal piece turned by the shaft, spring loaded to engage the roll pin in the plateless meter-- you have to pull the clutch back and latch it to take the hopper off, and when you put it back lift the handle and the spring will drop the connector back in place to mate to the roll pin to turn the meter.) The plateless drives bolt directly onto the side hopper mount panel to pre-place stamped holes for the bearing, bolts, and handle, so attaching them is simple as putting in two bolts. The unit drive chain then goes over the sprockets and is connected up, but if switching from plate type to plateless you have to add a few links to the chain to make it longer so it's the correct length-- the plate drives are slightly different geometry than plateless which is further back and a bit higher. Totally interchangeable though. You didn't mention what crops you'd be planting, but if you're planting corn, the finger pickup meters do a really great job compared to a plate type meter. You just want to make sure your finger pickups are in good shape (springs, finger flags, backing plates, and seed belt primarily) and a lot of dealers have test stands or you can get Precision Planting finger pickups that are already dialed in and have a lot of improvements compared to the original finger pickups. There's a lot of guys who still use finger pickups even today, my BIL prefers them over air planters, because they're less finicky and if maintained and set up right will do every bit as good a job as a vacuum planter. Plus, you can plant "plateless" seed (unsized seed) rather than plate-type sized seed, which is slightly more expensive than plateless seed. For other row crops, you simply cannot beat a Kinze brush meter. We planted cotton, grain sorghum, and soybeans with our Kinze brush meters that I bought used off the net back in the 90's and installed on the Deere plateless hoppers. The meters are 100% interchangeable with Deere hoppers and drives-- they bolt on the bottom of the hopper with 2 nuts on the bottom and one wing nut or regular nut on the inside of the hopper. Slide right into place and put the nuts on. The Kinze brush meters use interchangeable vertical seed disks for different crops, and come in several most popular seed sizes/seeding rates (number of seed pockets) and will plant EXTREMELY accurately compared to a plate planter, basically as good as any air planter out there. The disks attach to the bearing flange with two wing nuts finger tight, and the bearing stem extends out with a roll pin through it that is engaged by the plateless drive coupler, exactly the same as a finger pickup meter, with which they are 100% compatible and interchangeable. There's only one moving part, the seed disk, and two wear parts-- the seed brush and fill brush. You can replace both brushes in the meter in about five minutes for only a few bucks per row, and I never wore out a set of brushes on mine in many years of use. If you calculate the population and figure out you need a 1.2 inch seed spacing to get the population right, and set the planter transmission correctly to get that seed spacing by the book, when you dig up seeds in the field, or run a test dropping seeds on hard ground to see what the planter is doing, you'll find that's EXACTLY what you'll get. Kinze brush meters plant like a sewing machine. BUT they're not made to plant corn, just beans, sorghum, cotton, and pretty much every other row crop you can think of. They have cells around the edges of the disk to hold the seeds, like a plate, but they are shaped to hold INDIVIDUAL seeds of a typical size (small, medium, or large seed) and have indentations shaped like that seed (round for soybeans and grain sorghum, oval for cotton seed, etc) and then there's little grooves or channels that angle back and down to help direct seeds down and back into the seed pockets as the disk turns down into the seed pool at the bottom of the meter. Seeds drop into the pockets as the disk turns, and as it starts turning upwards at the back edge of the seed pool, a tapered-back "fill/cutoff brush" helps to push seed down toward the pocket to make SURE every pocket is filled with a seed, since the brush pushes seed down the swept back grooves in the disk toward the pockets. As the disk turns past the fill/cutoff brush, a peripheral brush that curves around the edge of the meter, that the seed disk turns against, holds a SINGLE SEED In each seed pocket on the disk, and excess seeds fall away or are brushed away as the disk turns... the only seed held in each pocket remain pushed against the vertical disk as it turns, excess seeds fall out and back to the bottom of the meter into the seed pool. As the disk turns past the top of the meter and down to about the 3-o'clock position, the brush comes to an end, and seeds fall out of the pockets one by one as the disk turns past the brush end, and the seeds fall individually down the seed tube to the furrow and are planted. Then empty disk pockets then turn down into the seed pool again to refill. Works like a champ! What's good about the 7000/7100 (a 7100 is just the 3 point mounted version of the 7000) is that all parts are interchangeable. There were a lot of add-ons and options offered for those planters, and parts are readily available from places like Shoup, etc. Plus, early series Kinze planter parts are also almost completely interchangeable, like the 2200 IIRC. Kinze planters were basically just a copy of the Deere 7000-7100 up until the 2600 IIRC, somewhere in there. The 7100 will plant around curves, so long as they're not TOO sharp or tight-- then they'll tend to push sideways and not close too well, because the closing wheels are pushes to the side of the furrow. BUT you could get some little "scratcher fingers" that attached to the closing wheel frames and had a pair of HD steel cables that acted as springs/attachments for the rear bar that had about 6 tines on it that lightly scratched the soil to make sure the seed was covered. They had some small chains that went up to the back of the hopper panel to some hooks so you could set the depth, and you could loosen the bolts and turn the brackets slightly to adjust downpressure exerted by the cables on the scratchers, as well as the tilt/aggressiveness of the tines. I put them on my planter just to make sure and to cover up/wipe out the press wheel tracks behind the press wheels. Worked good. I also had bed leveler "V-wing sweeps" on the front of mine, where you'd mount row cleaners or a unit-mounted no-till coulter. IF you wanted to do no-till, you could choose the row-unit mounted coulter with downpressure spring kits, or go with a FRAME MOUNTED coulter and put weights on the bar. I made a special set of brackets out of angle iron that went back past the planter drive wheels (they turn the transmission through the same setup as a pull-type planter, but they have turnbuckles instead of hydraulic cylinders since the wheels don't lift the planter, the three point does). The brackets held a spray boom on the back of the planter so we could spray our pre-emerge at the same time we planted, using a front-mount tank on the tractor and a PTO driven sprayer pump-- I did a video on my channel awhile back showing how the sprayer setup worked. If a guy was creative and wanted to put liquid fertilizer out as he planted, you could add tanks above the toolbar and some kind of brackets for openers to place it 2x2, or get aftermarket fertilizer openers that ran on/beside the row units themselves. Lots of options! Any other questions, just ask! Later! OL J R : )

[@lukestrawwalker]

The 3 point planter that Jacob has is the IH version of the old "71 Flexi" planter that Deere sold before the 7000/7100's came out, and continued to sell for a cheaper alternative and for really narrow rows (like 22 inch sugarbeets, which is a common row spacing for beets). 7000 and up series row units can plant that narrow, but it's better to have the row units staggered on twin bars or, like the Deere 1780 planter my BIL has (which is on my channel in some vids from a couple years back) staggered with longer parallel arms, and designed so every other unit can be locked up to plant 30 inch corn, or with all the units down, plant 15 inch row beans, which is what he uses his for. The old "71 Flexi" (and IIRC the IH equivalent was a 400 or 600 row unit-- the 800's were a clone of the 7000 units, changed just enough to avoid patent infractions) used either a sword opener or twin disk openers to open the seed furrow, like a grain drill-- no side gauge wheels on either side of the disks, and then the seed dropped in from a plate meter/hopper mounted directly above the openers. Each plate meter was individually driven "unit planter" by it's own press wheel in back. The press wheel ran a foot or so behind the openers, and turned a bicycle-type chain with interchangeable sprockets to set the planting population, inside a chain case with a snap-on cover on the RH side of the row unit. The press wheel also set the seeding depth, via a depth adjuster (snail-shaped adjuster) at the front of the row unit which could be turned and pinned in place to vary the seeding depth. What was nice about the Flexis were the row units were all independently driven, so you didn't have a planter transmission on the toolbar or drive/carry wheels on the frame with dog clutches and lift shutoff clutches to worry about... you could set them up for pretty much any row spacing you wanted so long as they weren't rubbing together, which as you can see got pretty narrow like on Jacob's planter, particularly because IH used a better design for their hoppers-- sorta rectangular, where the large Deere hoppers were round and about a foot and a half in diameter or so at the top, limiting how close together they could be mounted. (Deere did make smaller cylindrical hoppers that were the same diameter as the plate bottoms attached to them at the bottom, which were tall and skinny like a stovepipe, but carried less seed than the rectangular hoppers.) The other thing was, on rolling or hummocky ground or rough ground, the depth control wasn't the greatest-- the press wheel gauged the depth but it was about a 1.5-2 feet behind the actual seed openers, like a grain drill... so if the planter crossed a low spot it could be dropping seed on the surface, and then when the wheel dropped into the low spot it'd bury the seed disks to the hub and plant too deep til it came up out of the hole. The individual unit drives made population changes a PITA too, because you had to swap sprockets around on EVERY SINGLE ROW UNIT to set a new population. 7000/7100 and IH 800 planters used a single planter transmission with sprocket combinations that slid side-to-side to select the drive and driven sprockets to get whatever population you wanted, pop the chain on tighten on setscrew on the chain idler and you're done-- all the rows will plant the new population. Plus seeding depth changes were much easier on the later units, since they use a simple T-handle on top of the row unit shank right under/behind the seed hopper. Depth control was much better on the 7000 units than the Flexi's as well because the gauge wheels run directly BESIDE the disk openers and gauge the seeding depth there, instead of behind the row unit. The closing/covering of the seed was also much better, as the V-press wheels on the Deere's and twin closing disks and single rear press wheel on the IH's did a much better job closing and covering and firming up the soil around the seed than the old 71 Flexi's did... most of them had NO closing apparatus and just relied in the press wheel caving in the soil around the seed and pressing it down tight carrying the weight of the row unit not carried by the opener disks. My old 71 Flexi did have some little metal "scratchers" that were spring loaded bolted onto the sides of the unit that scratched through the soil on either side right behind the openers to flick some soil in over the seed, but in our sticky clay the soil would tend to ball up on the press wheel in back and cause depth control and closing problems. Why I got rid of it and got the far superior 7100... Later! OL J R :)

[@seadog6351]

What did you ever do with that Gleener that you bought?

[@boehmfarm4276]

I sold it

[@lukestrawwalker]

"I need another 6-8 inches..." That's what SHE SAID... ROFL... Did you check the oil in your mud hog rear end hubs? Gotta make sure those have plenty of clean oil in them or they'll grenade like the TW front end. Those planetary reduction hubs take a lot of beating, not as much as the MFWD on the TW, but still... NEVER a bad idea to change the oil in those, make sure you don't have glitter coming out with the oil, and put plenty of good, fresh, CLEAN oil back in them to the proper levels, and check them from time to time just to make sure! Later! OL J R :)

[@SE-iz9ro]

Do you still have the ford tw?

[@boehmfarm4276]

Yep, in the barn.

[@PaulHigginbothamSr]

On my combine I am not against spreading mouse and rat bait everywhere my dog can't get it. On the lights for rpm the cover needs opened and dielectric grease smeared on every fitting plugging and unplugging a couple times but only done when they act like these. Of course silage comes first and collecting money for the ear corn before worrying about what Nick left go. I would not have minded having his because after one day of soldering and shrink tube application she might run as good as this one. Just so Nick doesn't fix mine.

[@tomm549]

Is that a Motorolla Phone?

[@boehmfarm4276]

Yep

[@rogercarrico4975]

I thought that was a Motorola. I've got one too. The last one I had lasted 6 years. With 1 new battery and 1 new screen. There pretty tough. Knock wood😜

[@tomm549]

@@rogercarrico4975 Thats good to know. I got the moto e 2020 this year and it's a great phone.

[@lukestrawwalker]

@@tomm549 My last two have been Motorola's... Moto G-force 2 and now a Moto G-Power 2021. The old phone was working fine but I was always up against the memory limits for filming videos and taking pics for my channel and around the farm and at the kid's ball games and band stuff, and the G-power has double the memory out of the box and you can put a memory card in a slot in it and double it again, so now I have at least 4X memory of my old phone. Otherwise pretty much the same, but the new one has 4 cameras on back rather than 2, and one on the front same as the old. My old phone did good to get through the day on a single battery charge as well, and would usually play out before the end of one of the kid's ball games... that got old, but the phone was like 4 years old or so anyway... LOL:) Later! OL J R :)

[@craigflatley7370]

👍

[@pocketchange1951]

👍👌🇨🇦❤