Build a DIY Utility Trailer for $300 - Part 1

[@scout4locations]

Four thumbs what way up for this video. Right to the point, from the ground up. No talking about the rain, or your aunts dog. Just shows what is going to built, then right into the basic parts and materials that go into it. I especially appreciate the parts list as they cime up. And most of all, the prices and source suggestions. Thank you fie this videi

[@douglas787]

The kit trailer I got from Harbor Freight came with 12 inch wheels and the tires wore out in about 3500 miles. I've also had bearing problems and bent the axle from carrying 1000 pounds of tile. The caravan axle is strong, has better springs, much better bearings and accepts 15 or 16 inch full size rims from old jeeps, intrepids, and caravans. I've owned caravans that had over 250k miles and I've never seen a axle bearing failure. BRAVO FOGOFOX

[@josephashurst1026]

Thanks for this comment. I took a lot of flack for saying that Chrysler built a good axle. Your comments really reflect what I was trying to get at.... this axle is designed for serious low-maintenance mileage. HF trailers are designed to be very very cheap. That means something in real life....

[@PotatoGunsRule]

8:45...there is never "overkill." Make it stronger than you'll need and you'll never need to worry about over stressing it. I love being able to weld. I bought a rowboat last month and if I need to haul it on a trailer I can build my own or modify one I buy. I'm super excited about getting my own welder.

[@AmericanThunder]

Overkill is the best policy. Didn't Marilyn Monroe say something like that? Well whoever said it, it's a good policy.

[@ivanrodriguez8966]

Hello from 2020. We can't buy steel for that price anymore. I say with tears in my eyes.

[@azjeepman9415]

Hey…welcome to 2023. Still no relief on steel pricing…

[@jackderaway]

@@azjeepman9415 yeah beat me to it.

[@Sandra.Sandy.Robinson]

It's worse in 2023 😢

[@crispy_chips3309]

@@azjeepman9415 welcome to 2024 steel prices are still high

[@noobbuilderproductions7865]

Welcome to 2024 still not looking great on Steele prices 😀

[@nickhouck4309]

I love watching tools pay for themselves. And good idea putting that axle rear of center especially with that long tounge.

[@MrDavidlfields]

Good job. I appreciate that you covered the geometry to ensure the finished product is square.

[@GR1MKA1]

All these comments about just buying a $300 trailer from Harbor Freight. Because just buying some cheep piece of crap that will fall apart is SOOOO much better than learning a new skill set and getting a better quality product on the other end. SMH I can go buy some ikea crap furniture, but I prefer to build my own. Takes longer, costs more, but I have a better product and I learned something.

[@AmericanThunder]

People today seem to be lazier than they used to be, with very little willingness to learn new skills, so they can build their own stuff. In the same breath, a person who said building your own trailer is a waste of time, will sit on his flabby ass for hours watching the television or staring at his phone. lol Why waste time learning and building, when you can be getting fatter and watching tv?? :D

[@nickhouck4309]

I agree this trailer does not compare to a harbor freight trailer . You cannot just compare cost and size and think it's the same thing. The trailer in the video commercially would cost maybe $2000. It would also depends alot on how you value your time and what tools hardware and skill you have available. Just because the right thing for me would be buying a trailer doesn't mean that that's the right decision for everyone else. People are very narcissistic now and days and dont see value where it truly lies.

[@geraldmiller5260]

cheap not cheep

[@TheRealTimSliwa]

The harbor freight trailer is highly rated. It comes in pieces so you gotta put it together. If it's a piece of shit that falls apart its because you aren't meant to build shit. If you do it correctly it's a great trailer!

[@7891ph]

@@TheRealTimSliwa Treat them with respect and they'll hold up for a long time. The problem is that most people who buy them haven't got a clue, including the ones who claim to be "Experts".

[@lesternewman4838]

hey! very nice job and i really liked how you took ur time to make things right from the start. i have been a welder/fabricator since '76 and ur work is very good and well planned out. keep it up!

[@Reman1975]

It doesn't seem to matter how "Watertight" a DIY box metal frame is, 99% of the time you'll eventually find waters got in. It's usually best to just accept that this is going to happen and give it a convenient way to get back out. It doesn't help that a "Sealed" box frame will suck moist air in through any little pin holes when the frame get's cold, and the moisture in this condenses on the inside of the tubes when it warms back up, so the water doesn't get pushed back out. I've found a usable option is to introduce an intentional "Pin hole" (1/16" or 2mm depending on your preferred flavour of drill bits) at the sealed sections lowest point so that any pooled water get's pushed out as the frame heats up in the sun and the internal pressure raises slightly over atmospheric, but the best option is always to have a few 1/2 to 1" holes in the bottom corners where water may sit. As a bonus, These holes also double as seriously strong locations to hook ratchet straps into for when you're lugging something REALLY big about. That said, It's looking to be a pretty stout start to the chassis. I'm thinking it's going to turn out to be a rather robust little unit as I watch the rest of these videos. Nice work.

[@dennisarterburn18]

I agree with you afterthought you mentioned in the video. Marine grade plywood or similar would have been my choice for the deck. Actually I would remove the expanded metal deck and replace it with a solid deck. More protection from road crap when driving on my cargo. Then perhaps use the expanded material to fabricate a lockable utility box just forward of the main trailer. EXCELLENT video IMHO

[@csalinas-sf6jg]

By far best DIY trailer video I've seen. Lol I was actually excited to see it in use. Great video bud!

[@Kyle-ev4fk]

Mini van axle is a great idea! I would have ran the 2" all the way to the back so you could use it as a rear receiver. I have a homemade 4x8 trailer with a 2k axle and I have hauled 3600lbs of water in it.

[@stevenbaker4221]

A guy gave me a trailer this size after the original axle bent twice. A neighbor suggested I use a minivan axle, springs and shocks, which he had saved 3 of, saving them for this purpose. He gave me one, and I've been using it for 4 years now. Works great!

[@stevenbaker4221]

I used the identical Caravan axle that you did. With the shocks also on it yet, I can't feel it behind me at all when pulling it behind my 01 Grand Prix. Without using the shocks on the trailer, it makes the back of the car bounce some.

[@SethMethCS]

Theres also the option of using a pick-up truck bed from a non-running pickup truck or the back box from a non-running U-HAUL or similar box truck. Most of the time the lights are still functional plus axle and wheels are included!

[@andrewvitale2700]

Great job ! You gave me the inspiration to build one . One that will fit the exact dimentions I need.

[@mikesuscello2002]

The welds aren’t bad but since you asked for tips for improvement.. You need to flap disk or wire wheel the material completely clean from rust and mill scale before you weld it. Thats why your welds have all that contamination showing. Keep at it and good job

[@FogoFox]

Thanks!

[@davidrollend219]

Awesome video, try prepping all of your weld areas next time. Makes it a lot easier to weld a nice bead

[@FogoFox]

I checked the classified ads and found a guy parting out a minivan (it had hit a deer, so the front end was smashed, but I figured the back axle would be fine) and asked him how much he would sell me the rear axle for. I ended up pulling it myself and paid only $30 for the axle with the springs and mounts. I suspect there are any number of junkyards who would make a similar deal. Also, check your classified ads for people parting out old minivans. You can likely pick up the axle, springs mounts, wheels and tires for a song if you buy them all in a package deal. There's not a huge demand for old minivan rear axles out there, so there wont be a lot of competition trying to outbid you.

[@richdad360]

+FogoFox This video & you FogoFox have made my day. Thank you for sharing this information. I appreciate you.

[@JohnDoe-pu8ei]

what do you think the weight it can hold? motorcycle?

[@MostlyOutdoors]

FogoFox does it need to be a minivan axle? Or any axle off a vehicle?

[@hersandoe2916]

FogoFox

[@ozzy2753]

I will be calling my local junk yard tomorrow looking for an axle! Lol

[@gregaaron5728]

Seems like it would be perfect for a landscaping or lawn buisiness

[@tsi87supr60]

🙄 my ocd just kicked in, lol. 1)your trailer light wires go through the tongue. 2) trailers are built upside down. 3) the perimeter is usually built first, then cross bracing. Tips for your next trailer build. 🙂👍🏻 Nice work. If thats your first time welding. Not bad. Ive seen & had to fix worse. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 for the design aspect. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 for building it yourself.

[@charlesmills6169]

Good tip for the van axle

[@koch4070]

Clean your joints with a flap disk and put a slight 45 degree chamfer on every corner you're welding, I'm assuming you're using 75/25 gas? Welding is all about practice, the more u do, the better you get, just always make sure on something like this that you have good penetration, meaning your weld is hot enough and burning in good, a lot of hobby welders scare me with making trailers and putting them on the road with little welding experience, it never hurts to find a welder buddy to get some tips from, but from seeing you cut 45s and fitting everything properly, it looks like you done a great job. Just because a weld is pretty doesn't mean it's structural, worry about how your welds hold and the looks will eventually catch up.. Nice build.

[@moonpagan]

Some good, solid sensible advice, John. :-)

[@mugruberkyser8189]

+John Stern Im assuming you would have liked to have seen him Tig it ? But heres a little story i was mig welding a t joint ( practiceand i didn't bother to clean the mill scale off and i did a downhill verticle passs and when i mived ed the clamp and went to quence it i accidently droped it on the ground and i couldn't belive that it broke in 2.It fused to one side of the plate but it didn't fuse to the other side ,What was amazing is you could see the 90degree downhill weld were it was suppose to be fused to the metal. So the lesson here is allways grind the metal till its shinny before ya weld and make sure you are using the right volts/ipm.

[@koch4070]

+mugruber kyser pretty sure I didn't mention anything about tig welding on this application, I was merely generalizing what I've been taught as proper. Some things that work today may not necessarily work tomorrow, you could weld a rocket ship and fly it to Uranus if you so desire, vertical, horizontal, when you weld a long time you learn techniques that may not be accepted as the norm but my comment was only to try and offer some advice to ensure proper penetration, no matter which techniques or type of welding you choose. Flux core is great for dirtier metal, it'll lunch through more trash than 75/25, I could go on and on but I won't, to each his own..

[@FogoFox]

I actually use 100% CO2 with solid core wire. Never had a problem with penetration. My welds actually look better when I move faster, but I usually tend to move too slowly just out of inexperience...so I'm usually burning through rather than worrying about getting more penetration. If you look at the weld profile for CO2, you see that it actually makes a deeper, but narrower weld. Also, I hear a lot of people talking about grinding down the rust, and I have to admit I'm somewhat confused by that. On this video, I never welded to rust...even though it may not show it perfectly. there is one part where I welded on the rusty old shackle hangers, but the metal where I was welding was completely ground down to bare metal....it may not be very visible in the video.

[@ThomasShue]

beautiful trailer, its built like a tank. I would rather own your trailer than the junk being sold for way more money

[@tk429]

Cool video. I've considered using a Dodge Mini Van axle for an existing trailer so that I could run matching Jeep wheels as to what I have on my Jeeps.

[@ROTAXD]

If your existing axle is a 5 lug (5 on 4.5), that's already the bolt pattern for many older jeep wheels.

[@tk429]

+ROTAXD mine is 5x4.53

[@frankE91210]

+Tim Fox No it isn't.

[@tk429]

+frankE91210 The trailer I have sitting at home is the small GM pattern of 5x115mm. That comes out to 5x4.53. 5x4.5 = 5x114.3mm.

[@FogoFox]

Yep. that's exactly what I was thinking. I can use the spare from a jeep wrangler, Cherokee, or from most dodge/Chrysler minivans, and probably a ton of other vehicles as well. makes it easy to find a spare...

[@CUBICHI1985]

First and foremost, THANK YOU SIR, for such a great video, and most importantly, THANK YOU for answering all questions thrown your way so selflessly and graciously; it is uncommon nowadays to find people so inclined to offer suggestions and help without expecting something in return. I was wondering if a small and very light duty boat trailer could be built using the same principles you've shown (and probably more importantly, on a similar if not cheaper budget)? I would specifically need it to tow a 12 foot soft inflatable boat (SIB), the zodiac-type with a hard plywood or plastic transom (a capacity of no more than 450lbs, with boat, motor and gear). Would there be a better option for me? I really like the idea (especially the low expense and low maintenance that is inherent with a car/minivan axle); however the corrosion resistance does worry be a bit. I know there are better options out there (aluminum trailer, galvanized, etc.) but are all unfortunately way too expensive. Sorry for the loaded question; and again, THANK YOU VERY MUCH, AWESOME BUILD my good Sir!!

[@FogoFox]

Thanks for the compliments. You could definitely do it, but as you mentioned, rust resistance it's going to be a problem. You could always look at using "C-channel" instead of box steel for the frame so that you could paint both sides of the metal....you would just have to take into account that channel is not as strong as box, so it would need to be slightly re-engineered in terms of the design ...

[@cognac8297]

Like how you squared the frame and wheels. Firestone would have pulled one side .5 and the other side in towards the same side 0.3 and teach thier tv education tech to talk you into the unruly specs. Like all the cars onthe road leaning today

[@quixkiwi5337]

5:53 A flat bar cut to the "full inside length" to lie flat on & thus across the top side of the tongue between the outer chassis rails, (flush with the topside of the chassis rails themselves & just inside where the inner edge of the front crossmember will sit), would have allowed a better "centering and load strength" for the tongue, before the end "chassis box section" was welded on. Thus one wouldn't cut in two, the end chassis member, but just notch a FULL END CHASSIS BAR (notched enough to locate over the tongue without cutting that end bar in half), which - when later tack welded to the flat bar itself, provides a stronger chassis member at that point (considering it was weakened when notched across underneath the drawbar/tongue itself). Afterwards, simply tack welding the notched section onto the tongue will complete the front cross-members installation. Doing it THAT WAY, also allows a modification for converting the design into a lifting tray, by NOT welding the front chassis cross member to the tongue/drawbar at all, but pivoting the tongue at the midway crossmember & installing a hoist / wire-rope lift mechanism, using the notched crossmember as a locator when the tray is down. The notched front crossmember, strengthened by the flat bar welded to it, will still hold the front of the tray square.

[@iwantosavemoney]

nice looking so far but for a cheap light weight trailer that will hold about 1200 pounds you can buy a boat trailer that has a flat top and cover it that was what I did and I did not put sides in it for hauling stuff around. the one I bought was only 200 so I feel pretty good about it but I did have to put a top on it.

[@FogoFox]

Yep. Converting a boat trailer is an easy easy to go. Then the basic frame is in place and ready to go, and ask that is left is to customize the top.

[@JC-io8pv]

Exactly what I like straight up junk yard stuff exactly how I would recycle axel and everything

[@DjsVideoProductions]

Nice work.. I need to make 1 of these for my brother in-law.

[@jimmytate7587]

why can't he ride inside with you?

[@mikelouie8166]

Hi there,"THanks for the Diy tips on building your trailer, great job .! mike

[@troyd-motorsport9933]

I have to say very well done! It makes me cringe when i see people building trailers larger than this with angle iron not box tube. Least this will stand the test of time ;)

[@johncolling1790]

Just the steel is $415 in my area, not including the axle or the expanded metal. Obviously this vid was posted 5 years ago, but damn

[@andrewsapp856]

Imagine how expensive it would cost in 2021

[@thehighriseconstructionob9679]

Very n8ce thank you shearing sir. How do you know How many pound those steele will hold please lrt me know sir. What kind metal I need buy to create. Trailer ?

[@stephenvargo5020]

Nice job buddy

[@konner3593]

Hi, just wondering where you got all the medal from? I'm trying to build my own trailer but I'm having an oddly hard time finding medal. Thanks

[@chuckfinley5206]

Now I know what to do with my dad's wrecked 93 Buick Skylark. Brother keeps wanting to sell it for scrap. Not till i take it apart. It will cost me more than 300 after I buy the welding stuff. But at least I get to learn new stuff.

[@longevitywelding]

Nice trailer, and excellent video

[@razordu30]

I love this but feel I should point out to others to check your state regs before attempting something like this. In my state trailers without a title need its own inspection and special weigh-in, etc., and adds on a couple hundred dollars, often making diy trailers a no go here. Often makes more sense to just buy a used one with a title and “modify” it.

[@ar-hmfic975]

Three questions, how is the trailer holding up after all this time, would you have done anything different after it was completed and using it and can this been done with a 120 volt welder from harbor freight

[@josephashurst1026]

Still holding up fine. I think I would have just done a wood floor. The expanded steel starts to sag a bit and even break under heavy point loads. I am unfamiliar with the harbor freight welder, but if it can last s decent bread I would think it could work. None of the metal is very thick.

[@Sylvan_dB]

Nice job on the trailer. Impressed by how economical it was. Question: Why did you do all the cutting and notching to fit the tongue into plane with the bed frame rather than doing a bed frame and welding the tongue underneath?

[@FogoFox]

+Sylvan Butler I think your way could definitely work. I was just trying to minimize the amount of metal required to make it all work and felt like the way I did it gave it the highest strength for the amount of metal...but I'm no engineer :)

[@arq.abrahamgrajeda9143]

hello, great work you're doing both with the trailer and the tutorial, thanks for sharing your methods. i have a couple of questions, I'm a newbie on metal working and am wondering what kind of welder you're using (volts and amps)? and how thick is the metal you're using to build this trailer? an anticipated thank you for your time!!

[@FogoFox]

I used a Miller 175. It is a 220 Volt, 175 Amp Metal Inert Gas (MIG) wire-feed welder. I used pure CO2 gas as the shielding gas, although most people use an Argon mix. The metal thickness is shown in the video from minute 1:19 to 1:60.

[@alexpietrangeli1945]

Nice trailer

[@TheTurbineEngineer]

Nice Miller!

[@twintubro8528]

probly half ton but needs to get shocks for the Minny van leaf springs to carry the other half ton

[@FogoFox]

Agreed! 100%

[@twintubro8528]

FogoFox yha I'm in the planing stages of a trailer, the springs were the first port of call so.

[@twintubro8528]

Also the shocks as well, nothing to big or small

[@TomValha]

@TomValha 0 seconds ago Nice build man. Better than I can do. I will say one thing though, instead of those 45s you should be cutting some kind of zig zag where the joints meet, think a dado joint from wood. That’s where you get structural support. 45s just are way too weak. Other than that, amazing work man Ps- those prices have me chuckling. Due too inflation it should now be an under $600 trailer. I was literally just thinking I couldn’t get that nice of an complete axle housing for $300 where I am

[@bradleypumba]

A mini van axle I think that's a bit over kill lol good project tho Edit: I have seen a comment saying there is never overkill but what are you going to put in that trailer that needs a minivan spring i think anything heavy enough wouldent fit in there lol

[@scottmartin9542]

Great video. Do you build and sell trailers? I am looking for a 6x10' to carry a motorcycle; it will also be a utility trailer. Thanks in advance for your time,

[@josephashurst1026]

Not really. I just built this one for myself. I'd take a commission, but I recently moved to Colorado and need to build myself a shop first....

[@simplyraw1369]

Now I wish I could weld!!

[@twintubro8528]

the design of the trailer is fine but needs some shocks for better handling

[@stevenbaker4221]

I tried mine with and without the factory minivan shocks, the shocks help immensely.

[@DROY2004]

Twin tubro well, HFT trailers are a grade above junk, however I think it’s overkill on the tongue length, coulda cut it in 1/2 -2”x3”x 7’ , built like a tank!

[@alaanisaacmarquez3892]

The best DIY, thank you very much

[@josermendezlopez]

Nice job!!! What did you use the round pipe for i missed that part

[@youssifnagi1047]

dang look at the prices

[@robertjordon5782]

Mistake Need to drill 1/4 weep holes metal sweets ! Condensation exit hole at the bottoms corner of each tube!

[@ScottKasprick]

In the least, you'd end up with a welder (if you didn't already have one) and a new trailer when you were all done compared to the cost of a trailer (I don't have a welder :)

[@BasicBenny]

looks great man!

[@lukemartin7029]

That's amazing. Good job.

[@macplastering]

nice welding work well done

[@robbyrobber9326]

for the price,effort and time you could just easily buy one for that amount.Only reason I would want to make my own is if i had enough free metal parts laying to actually make one.

[@Rob_Basich]

That's a joke, right? That trailer is beyond junk.

[@SCOutdoors]

Rob Basich yeah they have been recalled

[@arekpelka8540]

great work ! Can you go with this trailer on the public streets? What happened if caps pull you over?

[@FogoFox]

State laws vary in the United States, but where I live (Utah) any trailer under 700 pounds weight does not even have to be registered. This trailer is totally legal. In other states, and possibly in other countries, laws could be completely different, so you would have to research it on your own.

[@FCFordLord]

FogoFox In quite a few states, you can file for a title on a home built trailer and title + register it for the road.

[@grizzlytroutfishing8472]

Curious how would you incorporate the parking brake?

[@heroknaderi]

super great idea

[@oliviaallred9990]

This is bloody brilliant!

[@elkhuntr2816]

Could the axle been flipped over so it steps up to provide more ground clearance? Or does it have to be run the way you have it, stepping down? I like how much ground clearance you have otherwise.

[@FogoFox]

It could, yes.

[@clemsmith8799]

Genius pure genius

[@jonpeterman6115]

water will still get in those tubes. after twenty years my tubes rusted through and could have caused serious damage had I not found it drill some drainage holes

[@MYTOYMAKERZ]

Jon Peterman - I agree with you rust in the form of condensation and the rust that was already inside the steel.

[@mirandayeats24]

dude you don't get it get he's a pro

[@jasonkloos6348]

Miranda Yeats being a pro doesn't magically stop iron from rusting.

[@Therevdon]

I understand your thinking with welding everything solid so no water gets inside the frame rails, but think about condensation. There's nothing you can do to stop it from forming inside, and if everything is completely sealed off, there is nowhere for the moisture to go. Consider drilling a few small drain holes in the bottoms of each rail. Preferably one at each end of each of each rail. I'm not bashing or trying to come across as anexpert, it's just something to think about.

[@FogoFox]

It's certainly true. I probably should have filled the frame with WD-40 or something....on the other hand, that might have created an explosive situation. Man! I hate rust!

[@rollingtones1]

FogoFox Use 3M "Cavity Wax" inside the frame rails. It comes in a large spray can and is awesome. An alternate is CRC Marine Corrosion Preventive Spray. Both are great in this application.

[@FogoFox]

+David Gold Awesome tip! Thanks!

[@SelfReliantIsland]

nicely built but wouldnt work very well for moving soil. i think i would go for plywood floor and walls, which would be cheaper.

[@FormerTrucker]

Could you make a PDF instructions how to build the trailer?

[@alejandrolozano8573]

I don’t weld but when you capped it off at the end, isn’t that dangerous, doesn’t it need a hole for pressure to escape?

[@ilovemyevo556]

I wouldn't have capped off the tube... i would have made a reciever hitch so i could add on one of those cargo hitches at my leisure or bike rack or something like that.. could always throw in a brake light lol

[@stufoo]

the more surprising thing i learned was dodge caravans had leaf springs...

[@coppereight]

Right?!

[@FillVinf06]

Thanks for explaining that much, I am building mine and it's always good to have a 2nd pov , but I'd like to know, with what tool did you cut the 2" x 3" that straight? Oxy-acethylene cutter? A saw? That's a nice cut, but I'm affraid I wouldn't be able to do it so well. Thanks a lot, very useful!

[@FogoFox]

Oxy-acet torches will not leave a clean cut. I view them more for rough cutting. In the shop, when preparing a cut to be welded, I use a chop saw with an abrasive blade (I think it uses 14" blades) for most cuts and I use a handheld grinder with a skinny wheel (4.5" diameter) for smaller cuts where the angle isn't as important. For making a 90 degree or 45 degree cut in a home shop, you can hardly beat a abrasive chop saw. I think I bought mine for about $50 a few years ago. It isn't the best, but it gets the job done.

[@FillVinf06]

FogoFox Thank you. Also, I would say that I am just like you, I prefer rather welding than bolting as much as possible, but in the case of the hand of the tongue, if something breaks in the mechanism, it'll be harder to repair while welded than if it would be bolted, it's just my opinion, the the whole thing looks great ;)

[@FogoFox]

FillVinf06 You are certainly correct about the tongue being more difficult to replace when it is welded on. It is possible...but it is more difficult. You would have to get out the skinny wheel on a handheld grinder and just go to town on it until all the old welds were cut out. In my case, since I even filled in the bolt holes with weld, it will be really difficult. On the other hand, I also left the tongue REALLY long, so I could easily cut the whole end off and just stick a new tongue on there. I just don't prefer the bolt on aspect and potential slop when it isn't welded. For me, it is personal preference, but you definitely have a point here.

[@StokesMusicStudiosOnline]

I want to learn to weld.

[@christinablank4797]

Now if someone could make bike ones like these...

[@Ben31337l]

What's the advantages of using hollow tubing as opposed to solid, but smaller rod equivalents?

[@FogoFox]

Tube frame is better because you want a light weight and inexpensive frame that is as strong as possible. For the same quantity of steel (or the same weight of steel), a tube is far stronger. Think of a bridge....they usually have a lot of steel up over your head and you drive through the centre of it all....you don't drive along the top of a solid bar of steel. that's because the father you can spread the steel away from things, the better the strength to weight ratio. this is why bicycles and cars also use either tube or "C"shaped channel rather than solid steel beams.

[@goclunker]

Question: I am lifting my van. Thinking of spacers for the spring hangers. Are they bolted to the body? Or welded on?

[@FogoFox]

Bolt on

[@timothythomas1345]

I recently last week bought steel for a a roof rack . I have needed and wanted a roof rack for a couple years. To throw on my jeep cherokees naked roof . I have seen roof racks in catalogs and online and they are expensive ranging from 500 to 1200 and up . I wasn't sure if I could weld or not and didn't want to risk messing up the steel and potentially money on the stick welder . So I talked to a metal guy and he first quoted me around 100 dollars to weld it . Then I asked if he could weld it to the drip guard .He said he couldn't do that but he could make clamps for 15 dollars a piece . I said ok let's do that . That was going to bring me at around 200 labor and 65.00 for steal . He did say it won't be right at 200 but could be a little over I though well over maybe 20 to 25.00 or so . .Well after almost a week I called to see if he was done or what was up . He tells me he stopped because he needs 65.00 more dollars to finish it . He tells me this after he has cut my steel up and knows I have no other choice but to comply . The design I went with was done with consulting him on what weld would be easiest for instance it is all right angles although I would have like some bends he said that would make it harder thus more expensive . Every thing was designed so the work would be easier . It is 4.5 ft x 5 ft long and only has three pieces of tubing for the floor . I thought a pro metal shop could bust something like that out in 2 hrs or so . It will be a week to the day and 265 dollars labor and not only that I was supossed to have 6 pionts of contact with the 6 clamps he was supposed to make at 15 dollars a piece and he said he would put 2 . So the price went up and the quality went down . It started at 100 and for 2 clamps went to 265.00 . You being a welder what are your opinions . I am pretty sure I just got ripped .

[@FogoFox]

Well, that is a bum situation. Sorry. I think the 2 hour estimate was WAY aggressive, but I tend to work a bit slower...I like the way you allowed him to help you make the design so that it could be cheaper, and I sympathize with you. It sounds like the guy did not communicate well with you, and it sounds like he underestimated the work involved (that is his problem, so he should have been willing to eat the cost overages out of his own funds in order to honor his word....but that is just my opinion).

[@timothythomas1345]

Thanks for the reply. I have since gotten 2 small welders . A cheap 90amp wire feed and a clarke 90 stick welder . I am modifying the flux core welder . To make it DC so it will make better cleaner welds without all the splatter . Trying to find room for a capacitor . It is a little bigger than the tutorial I seen on the mod . But within the power capabilities . Let you know how this thing works after or if it works after I am done. .

[@JuanRamos-pm5wn]

Can I do a trailer with a cheap welder or does it have to be a expensive one

[@chrisgossage633]

i have a question! I have a 5X10 trailer that I want to turn into a landscaping trailer. In doing so I want to raise the sides from about 1' to about 4'. To get a good weld, should I cut off the existing sides? or should I add on and hope that the connectivity of all sides provides stability?

[@FogoFox]

Chris Gossage It kind of depends on what material you have to work with on the existing trailer. If the existing trailer is rusted out or made of thin metal, then you are going to have to find a way to support it a bit, and you are right that you could build the upper rail system to provide some extra support / stability. If it is solid enough, then you should have no problem at all.

[@walkingmonument]

Under three hundred if you've already spent thousands on welding equipment, tools and the necessary space to carry out the job. Oh and experience which has a value too

[@FogoFox]

Indeed. I call it DIY because I'm not a professional trailer building and I built it in my garage with tools that I have. Buying a welder and few small hand tools is not really THAT much of an investment. With pretty much any DIY project, you're going to have to go buy some tools and materials... ...but yes, not anyone would be able to build this trailer. I think after watching the video, people will realize very quickly if it is within their skill/tool range.

[@CSSIandAssociate]

In addition the tooling and experience allows you the flexibility to make many more things. Case in point. I don't like working on the ground. I am 53 years young and working at waist height makes things much easier. The first thing I did was to build an overhead Gantry. No wheels on the floor. All overhead from the walls. Then a Welding Table. Now I can build your build at waist height. It goes faster and easier. In addition friends like coming over and helping. Because it is easier and they learn something too. Good build. What year is the rear end?

[@Koshunae]

You don't have to spend thousands on equipment. My very first trailer build was done with a 90 amp 110v $90 harbor freight flux core welder. After that though, I invested in a decent welder and some gas and now I'm not as limited to building.

[@milk2percent416]

You can literally rent a welder for 50$ and it's easy to weld! So let's say $350

[@jimmytate7587]

why do you criticize those who have accumulated tools over the years? its no sin to have things.....

[@adub169]

with the air that's in the tubes, you will get condensation on the inside. with temperature drops

[@marcointiubertini7602]

How much weight it can take??

[@FogoFox]

I've had about 2,400 in it, but that was way overloaded. I estimate the max. safe load at 1,000 pounds.

[@homemadetools]

Looks good!

[@craveman85]

What's the weight limit on that axle? How much do you think it could handle in the bed for weight?

[@FogoFox]

John K I can easily carry a 4x4 fourwheeler, or load it to the top of the rails with camping gear and it still has capacity leftover. In terms of dirt, I have had it loaded with a bobcat bucket-full of sand and that was about the max it would do. So I would say that a safe capacity limit for it is about 1,500 pounds.

[@FogoFox]

+FogoFox I'm revising this weight capacity estimate down to 1,000 pounds. I've carried loads that were more than double that, but without adding shock absorbers, it was not a safe load. Also, I think going over 1,000 pounds is well above the manufacturers design loads for that axle.

[@commandernoodles2367]

alright, thanks. but if i wanna make a 1-tonner, what is needed? just more leaf-springs? is that frame enough for a ton?

[@FogoFox]

you'd want a stronger axle, a stronger frame, and beefier springs. this thing is based off a minivan axle...nothing on a minivan is rated for anywhere near a ton.

[@smileyguyz]

+FogoFox And shocks...

[@enveng4279]

I disagree with what is said here. A minivan axle should easily hold a ton if all of its pieces and parts are there (shocks). Think about it a minivan is 3600 plus pounds empty (actually 3600 would be very light). The newer ones are well over 4,000. They’re designed to hold seven 200 pound people, a full tank of gas (150 lbs), a bunch of luggage, and you can still put a trailer on the back.

[@wesley00042]

@@enveng4279 A quick Google Image Search shows the rear Gross Axle Weight Rating for a 1995 Grand Caravan is 2726 pounds.

[@samanthasalyers91]

i built my own trailer built like a tank and fun

[@mangreat71]

How do you attach a metal Dolly from Wal Mart to the back of the bike without it hitting the back wheel of the bike ?

[@ROTAXD]

What would you estimate the basic frame of the trailer (without axle or springs) weighs ?

[@FogoFox]

the while thing weighs 540 lbs. I guess the trailer frame itself is less than 100. that leaves around 440 lbs for the wheels, tires, springs and axle.

[@samohtnotslar]

Why not use c channel instead and lighten it up?

[@v35james30]

Great video. Thanks.

[@paulgee4336]

I think it would have been better and stronger if you had welded the tongue piece on top of the three crossbars instead of cutting them and notching them. (basically build it upside down)

[@thomasnewsom929]

What kind of wire on the welder?

[@IcarusX72]

Total kick @$$ man!!

[@rafaelmolina123]

Why is the tire fender so high?

[@josephashurst1026]

Cuz the springs are so soft. The clearance is needed when the trailer is heavily loaded.

[@J-Burgerz]

Cost adjusted to $7000.00 for today’s economy.

[@rosevillainsrosevillains3157]

how much does it weigh?

[@ByTheGram]

I guess I could just buy one

[@jamesonkinowski5949]

awesome

[@laospot]

What is the tool called for cutting and how much would I have to spend to cut these square tubes?

[@MrRaddad45]

+Bou Phomvongsavad He is either using a angle grinder or a table saw with a metal cutting blade. With a angle grinder you can get a cut off disk too cut steel and one of those angle grinders you can get off amazon for 30$, but a table saw not really sure I do know they will be a bit more expensive but you will be able to cut bigger pieces of steel

[@laospot]

Thanks! I look those up.

[@FogoFox]

+Bou Phomvongsavad Yes, I used an "angle grinder" with a 4.5" "cut-off wheel" for many of the cuts and a "chopsaw" with a 14" abrasive blade for the rest. (I wish I had a metal-cutting bandsaw, though...)

[@DPNP-ls7ro]

+Bou Phomvongsavad #Abrasive cutting saw